You take a gorgeous holiday, set off on your dream road trip through Tuscany, Italy by car, sip wine under the cypress trees, eat the best pasta of your life, and come home full of impressions. A few months later, though, an unassuming envelope with an Italian postmark lands in your mailbox. Inside is a fine for €80 to €130, on top of which the rental company adds another hefty admin fee. The reason? Nobody warned you about the ZTL zones in advance.

Lukáš and I actually explored Tuscany back in August 2018 on e-bikes, which was absolutely fantastic and let us dodge all the parking stress. But if you’re planning to discover this picturesque region by car, you need to be ready for specific Italian rules that can trip up even experienced drivers. Italy is made for a road trip, you just have to know exactly where you’re allowed to drive and where you’re not.

Here you’ll learn everything I wish I’d known before my first trip: how to avoid paying a ZTL fine, when to bother taking a car at all, and how to plan your seven days so you still have time for wine. You’ll also find out why you shouldn’t pick up a car straight at the airport, where to base yourself strategically, and what to watch out for when driving the famous white gravel roads, because wandering the vineyards with a flat tyre isn’t exactly romantic.

TL;DR

• ZTL zones can cost you hundreds of euros: Historic city centres are protected by restricted-traffic zones. There are no barriers, just discreet cameras that photograph your plate, and the fine arrives by post.
• December 2024 reform: Repeated passes through the same ZTL on the same day now count as a single offence, a huge relief for confused tourists.
• When to take a car: You don’t need a car to see Florence, you’d only pay for expensive parking. Pick one up only when you head out into the countryside.
• Motorway vs. superstrada: Green-signed motorways (autostrada) are tolled, blue-signed expressways (superstrada) are free but have no petrol stations.
• Parking by colour: White lines mean free parking, blue lines are paid, and never park on yellow, those are for residents only.
• Strade bianche: White gravel roads lead to Tuscany’s most beautiful estates. Check with your rental company that your insurance covers the undercarriage.
• The right pace: Don’t try to cram all of Tuscany plus the coast into 7 days. Focus on Florence, Siena, the Val d’Orcia and San Gimignano.

ZTL: the most expensive mistake you’ll make in Tuscany

ZTL (or Zona a Traffico Limitato, as it’s elegantly put in Italian) is the acronym that ruins the otherwise perfect holidays of tourists in the Tuscany region of Italy. And unfortunately in the fullest sense of the word. These restrictions protect historic centres from smog and noise. You won’t find any barriers or booths with a guard. The restriction is enforced by a so-called varco, a camera gate with an automatic plate reader. Drive through without authorisation and the camera photographs you without mercy.

Tourists often think that if nobody stopped them, nothing happened. But a fine of €80 to €130 per pass reliably arrives by post, easily months after you get home. If you have a rental car, the fine goes to the rental company first. They pass your details to the police, but immediately charge an admin fee to your credit card, usually around €40 to €60. And you then still have to pay the fine itself to the Italian authorities.

These zones aren’t only in big cities like Florence, Siena, Pisa and Lucca. You’ll find them in small historic centres too, such as Monteriggioni, San Gimignano, San Miniato and a whole string of Chianti villages. The restriction usually starts right at the old walls or on the edge of the historic quarter. To be safe, you can check the full overview on the Italian ZTL portal, where you’ll find precise maps for individual towns.

For years the rule was that if you circled a centre in a panic and passed a camera five times in an afternoon, you got five fines. The good news is the reform of December 2024. It finally established that repeated passes through the same ZTL on the same day count as a single offence. But if you enter different ZTL zones or on multiple days, they still, unfortunately, add up as separate fines.

So how do you avoid all this and enjoy your holiday in peace? Here are four concrete ways to outsmart the ZTL:

1. Park in the park-and-ride lots outside the centre. It’s the safest and often the cheapest solution. From the larger lots, shuttle minibuses frequently run right up to the sights. 2. Register your plate with a hotel inside the ZTL. If you’re staying right in the centre, contact the hotel before you arrive. The staff routinely register your plate in the police system, and driving to the hotel then becomes completely legal. 3. Don’t blindly trust your sat nav. Apps like Google Maps or Waze will happily send you into a ZTL unless you tell them otherwise. Always follow the actual road signs on the street. 4. Look for illuminated signs and boards. A ZTL is marked by a round sign with a red rim and a white centre. It’s accompanied by an illuminated board reading ZTL ATTIVA (the zone is active, do not enter) or ZTL NON ATTIVA (the zone is not active, you may drive in).

The ZTL is often marked only by a discreet sign that’s easy to miss in dense Italian traffic. The round sign with a red rim is frequently the only warning before the camera, and by the time you reach it there’s usually nowhere to turn around. So always study the parking map in advance and don’t count on somehow miraculously figuring it out on the spot. In Tuscany’s narrow lanes, reversing with an angry local driver behind you is the stuff of nightmares.

Many tourists think it won’t happen to them, but the ZTL is exactly why forums are full of desperate questions from travellers all over the world. If the red ZTL ATTIVA sign is lit, don’t try to squeeze through even for a second, because the system is fully automated and shows no mercy. If green ZTL NON ATTIVA is showing, you can drive into the centre with peace of mind, but always double-check it anyway.

Just so you know, the rental company will never pay the actual fine to the Italian authorities for you. They only take their own admin fee from your card for passing your details to the police in time. Actually settling the amount with the authorities is then entirely up to you, and ignoring Italian payment demands definitely doesn’t pay off down the line.

Roads, tolls and speed cameras

The Italian motorway network is excellent, but you need to learn to tell apart two basic types of fast roads. The autostrada is the classic motorway, signed in green, and it’s tolled. You stop at the toll gate, take a ticket, and pay on exit according to the distance you’ve driven. You can pay by cash, card or the prepaid Viacard. On the autostrada you’ll find large rest areas and petrol stations. If you want to work out the toll in advance, the calculator on the official Autostrade website does the job nicely.

By contrast, the superstrada is an expressway, signed in blue, and completely free. An example is the busy Firenze–Siena route (known as the RA3), which is mostly dual-carriageway but narrows in places. Watch out especially for the fact that the superstrada has no petrol stations. If you’re facing a longer drive, I’d recommend filling up before you get on.

A chapter all of its own is Italian speed cameras, known here as autovelox. They’re both fixed and mobile, and in Tuscany they’re simply everywhere, on main roads, in a sleepy little village, around a bend where you’d never expect one. I’m not sure whether it’s diligence or Italian sense of humour. 😅 As soon as you enter a small village, the limit often drops to 50 km/h and the camera measures unerringly. The system really doesn’t care that you’ve almost cleared the village and started to speed up, so stick to the limits with maximum care.

Parking in Italian towns works on a single colour code that’s worth learning quickly. Here’s a simple overview of what each colour on the ground means:

Line colour on the road	What it means for you as a driver
White line	Parking is free, but check the signs (often limited to max. 2 hours with a parking disc).
Blue line	Parking is paid. You need to find a parking machine or use a local phone app.
Yellow line	No parking. Spaces are strictly reserved for residents, taxis or deliveries.

Besides the coloured lines, watch the upright signage too. A blue square with a white letter P marks a standard car park. But if you see a blue circle with a red rim and a diagonal red line, it means no parking, even if there are no lines on the ground. Locals sometimes park where you wouldn’t dare stop even on a bike, but with a foreign plate (and a rental at that) don’t risk it.

On Italian roads you may also be surprised by the behaviour of local drivers, who can be quite spirited. Even so, try to keep a cool head and don’t let yourself be provoked into driving faster, because speeding fines here are genuinely steep. On rural roads especially, watch the speed limits at village entrances, where cameras often measure right after the sign and the system forgives nothing.

On tolled motorways paying is very simple and you don’t need any motorway vignette (toll sticker, e.g. Austria/Switzerland). On entry you just take a ticket from the machine and pay on exit, either by cash, a regular card or the prepaid Viacard. The system is clear, just be careful not to accidentally get into the yellow lane reserved for the Telepass electronic toll, where you’d have no way to pay.

But I have to stress again how treacherous the free superstrade are, because the lack of petrol stations can catch you out very unpleasantly. If the fuel light comes on mid-drive, you’ll have to leave the expressway for the nearest town and hunt down a local petrol station. That can cost you needless time and nerves.

Strade bianche: unpaved roads to the loveliest spots

Tuscany is famous for its strade bianche, which translates as white roads. They’re unpaved, dusty gravel roads that wind across the most picturesque hills. They’re especially typical of the Val d’Orcia and Crete Senesi areas. It’s these roads that take you to the most iconic viewpoints and to traditional country estates.

As romantic as it sounds, driving the strade bianche calls for a little caution. It’s recommended to rent a car with higher ground clearance, ideally at least 130 mm. An ordinary small city car will manage it too, but you have to go really slowly and avoid larger rocks and potholes. After rain especially, these roads can get very treacherous.

The crucial thing to sort out at the booking stage is insurance. Explicitly confirm with the rental company that you’re even allowed to drive on unpaved roads. Many basic contracts exclude off-tarmac driving. Even more important is to check whether your insurance covers any damage to the undercarriage or a punctured tyre, which are fairly common mishaps on the strade bianche.

These roads are often the only way to reach the most authentic accommodation and celebrated wineries tucked deep in the Tuscan landscape. Sure, you’ll only crawl along them and the car will soon be coated in fine dust, but the views are absolutely worth it. Just take real care when passing oncoming tractors or locals who know these stretches by heart and drive them noticeably faster. More than once we had to pull right over to the edge when a dusty Fiat Panda came flying round a bend at a speed we’d never have expected off-road.

Most owners of remote country estates will happily confirm that this very minor inconvenience is exactly what keeps the crowds away and guarantees absolute calm. Once you conquer that last gravel stretch and park at your agriturismo, the view over the rolling Tuscan hills instantly makes up for every driving hardship.

Where to start and when to take the car

When planning your trip, you’ll probably be weighing up which airport to book flights into. Pisa airport is ideal if you’re heading to northern Tuscany or want to spend time by the sea on the coast. For the classic inland loop that our itinerary follows, though, the airport right in Florence is far more practical.

The biggest mistake you can make is picking up a car straight after landing. In Florence and Pisa alike you won’t use a car in the first few days at all. You’ll explore the historic centres exclusively on foot, and the car would just sit in an expensive garage where you could easily pay €25 a day. Not to mention the stress of navigating a big foreign city right after your flight.

The smart traveller does it differently. Pick up the car only when you’re leaving the city for good. Many people collect the rental on the third morning, once they’ve walked all of Florence and are ready to set off towards the countryside and vineyards. That way you save two days of rental plus expensive parking, and spare yourself a lot of pointless frustration. Lukáš and I usually look for cars well in advance through RentalCars.com, where you can easily compare offers from both local and international firms.

The choice of airport also depends a lot on which country you’re actually flying from and where you can get cheaper flights. While Pisa is a great gateway to the north and the coast, it’s worth flying into Florence if you want to focus purely on the famous triangle of Chianti and Siena. Sometimes it pays to fly into Florence and out of Pisa, which gains you an extra day and saves you one long motorway drive back.

7-day itinerary for Tuscany, Italy by car

This classic loop takes you through the best of central Tuscany. The route starts in Florence, continues through the wine country of Chianti to Siena, drops down into the gorgeous Val d’Orcia, and returns north via San Gimignano.

At least in our view, this plan is really well balanced, more towns would wear you out, more countryside and you’d probably just stare dreamily into the vineyards and get nothing done. 😁 Trying to squeeze in the coast or the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa within one week means you’ll spend most of your time behind the wheel and exhaust yourself. We arranged the route so you don’t sit in the car pointlessly right after breakfast, because that’s not what you go to Italy for. 😅

To make it easier to picture, I’ve put together a clear table breaking down the days:

Day	Area	What’s in store
Days 1 & 2	Florence	Exploring the city on foot, galleries and markets, you don’t need a car yet.
Day 3	Chianti	Pick up the car, rolling hills, vineyards, tastings and a night at an agriturismo.
Day 4	Siena	Drive to Siena, exploring Piazza del Campo and the majestic cathedral.
Days 5 & 6	Val d’Orcia	Cinematic scenery, the towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, Montalcino and Bagno Vignoni.
Day 7	San Gimignano	Stop at the medieval towers, detour to Volterra and return the car in Florence.

Honestly, the biggest mistake people make is trying to see absolutely everything. Tuscany isn’t a region you’d want to just tick off a list in a hurry. If you stick to our pace, you’ll get to savour slow mornings and won’t fall apart every day from long drives. You’ll stop at a café, browse a ceramics shop, and if you like somewhere, you’ll happily linger an hour longer.

Days 1 & 2: Magical Florence

Devote the first two days fully to the cradle of the Renaissance. Florence is breathtaking but also very busy, so getting around on foot is the best possible option. Stay somewhere near the centre and set off to discover the Duomo of Santa Maria del Fiore with its iconic dome. In the evening, stroll across the Ponte Vecchio and soak up that wonderful southern atmosphere. I’d recommend buying tickets for the main attractions online in advance, for example on the official Uffizi Gallery website.

On the second day, get lost in the lanes of the Oltrarno, where time flows quite differently among the artisan workshops and little cafés, and in the evening don’t miss the view from Piazzale Michelangelo, especially at sunset it’s incredibly romantic. If you’re after the details, check out our separate article with tips on what to see in Florence.

Day 3: Up into the Chianti hills

The morning of the third day is the right time to head to the rental office. Collect the car and drive straight south into the Chianti area, which stretches between Florence and Siena. It’s a landscape straight out of a catalogue, full of green hills, cypress avenues and endless rows of vines. Nobody’s in a rush here. Just drift a little off the main route and you’ll find yourself surrounded by absolute silence.

Stop in little villages like Greve in Chianti or Castellina in Chianti. The area is famous for Chianti Classico wine, so a visit to one of the local wineries is almost obligatory. Ideally stay at an agriturismo somewhere off on its own, where after a day of wandering you settle by the pool with a glass in hand and marvel at how lovely it all is. ☺️

Day 4: Medieval Siena

After a quiet morning in the countryside, you move on to Siena. From Florence to Siena it’s about 78 kilometres on the RA3 superstrada and takes roughly an hour and a quarter. As you now know, this stretch is toll-free, but expect it to narrow in places. We consider Siena one of the most beautiful cities in Italy, and its brick architecture will utterly charm you.

Before driving into the city, keep a close eye on the ZTL signs and park in one of the big park-and-ride lots outside the walls. In the centre itself don’t miss the unique shell-shaped Piazza del Campo and the breathtaking Siena cathedral. You’ll find more details in our guide to Siena and San Gimignano.

Days 5 & 6: Cinematic Val d’Orcia

You’ll spend the next two days in a landscape inscribed on the UNESCO list. The Val d’Orcia is exactly the Tuscany you know from the film Gladiator. Here you’ll find the most photogenic cypress avenues and rolling hills that change colour with the seasons. The drives between the individual towns are short here, usually just a few dozen minutes.

Over these two days, explore Montepulciano and Montalcino, both famous for outstanding wine. Be sure to stop in Pienza, a paradise for cheese lovers, and in the thermal town of Bagno Vignoni. Here you’ll drive a lot on the dusty strade bianche, so go carefully and enjoy the unbelievable views around every bend. These are exactly the places where you’ll want to stop every five minutes to take another photo.

Day 7: San Gimignano and Volterra

The last day is a return north. From Siena to San Gimignano it’s about 45 minutes by car if you take the fastest route. But if you decide to weave through Poggibonsi and the picturesque hills, the drive will stretch by another 30 to 45 minutes. San Gimignano is known as the medieval Manhattan thanks to its family towers rising high into the sky.

If you have the time and energy, I’d recommend adding a detour to mysterious Volterra. It’ll take you just under an hour of extra driving, but the Etruscan history and alabaster workshops are worth it (more in the article about Volterra). Then in the afternoon all that’s left is the drive back to Florence, returning the car at the rental office and flying home.

Shorter and longer variations

What if you don’t have exactly a week? If you’re pressed for time and have only 5 days, I’d advise skipping San Gimignano and Volterra. Split your time into two days in Florence, one day in Siena and two days purely in the countryside in the Val d’Orcia. You’ll see less, but you won’t feel like you’re just sitting behind the wheel rushing somewhere.

Conversely, if you have a luxurious 10 days at your disposal, you can nicely extend the itinerary. Add a trip north to Lucca and famous Pisa to the classic loop. Another option is to extend it from the Val d’Orcia towards the coast and combine the road trip with a few relaxing days by the sea, or even a ferry to the island of Elba.

If you’re travelling with kids, change strategy completely. Constant packing and switching hotels is hell with a family. Find one strategic base, ideally an agriturismo with a big pool somewhere in Chianti, and take only shorter day trips around the area. And if you don’t drive at all? Tuscany without a car is doable if you limit yourself to the big cities connected by train (Florence, Siena, Pisa, Lucca), but sadly you won’t reach the remote rural valleys.

Where to stay

💡 Accommodation tip and experiences: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, where the cancellation terms tend to be the best. Tickets, tours and activities are then worth comparing and booking through GetYourGuide.

The basic rule for a Tuscany road trip is: don’t sleep somewhere different every night. Moving suitcases around eats up a lot of precious time and energy. For a seven-day itinerary, two or three bases are absolutely ideal. Start in Florence, then move to the countryside in Chianti or around Siena, and make your third base deeper south in the Val d’Orcia. If you want to spare yourself the stress of searching and be sure of free cancellation, booking through Booking always works great for us, especially when planning longer road trips in advance.

For a driving itinerary, the absolute best type of accommodation is an agriturismo. These are traditional Tuscan farms or country estates offering accommodation. The advantage is that you get free parking, complete quiet, often a gorgeous pool and great home cooking. Personally I’d recommend a look at the charming Agriturismo Il Rigo in the middle of the rolling Val d’Orcia hills, or the beautifully restored Castello di Spaltenna in the Chianti area if you want a touch more romantic luxury. The choice is huge in any case, so I’d also suggest a look at our article with 20 agriturismo tips in Tuscany, where you’ll find specific prices and advice on how to pick the best one.

If you’ll be sleeping in the cities, choose accommodation very carefully. Always look for hotels with their own parking, or find out in advance where the nearest paid garage is (reckon on €15 to €25 a night). Let me repeat the most important thing: if the hotel has an address inside a ZTL, you must send them your plate number in advance, otherwise the only souvenir from your holiday will be expensive fines.

Take particular care if you’re planning to travel around mid-August, when Italians celebrate Ferragosto. During this period hotels and agriturismi are bursting at the seams and accommodation prices soar, so you have to sort your booking many months ahead. In the winter months, by contrast, the roads are beautifully empty, but a lot of country estates and seasonal restaurants are closed.

So you don’t have to go hunting, here are specific tips by stage, all outside the ZTL or with their own parking:

Stage	Accommodation	Rating	Why this one
Days 1–2 · Florence	iQ Hotel Firenze	★ 4.8 (504)	modern, near Via Cavour, on-site parking
Days 1–2 · Florence	Ambasciatori Hotel Florence	★ 4.3 (6,844)	by S. M. Novella station, easy to reach by car
Day 3 · Chianti	Agriturismo San Sano	★ 4.9 (357)	agriturismo among the vineyards, free parking
Day 4 · Siena	Hotel Italia Siena	★ 4.6 (832)	a short walk from the walls, own car park
Day 4 · Siena	Hotel Arcobaleno	★ 4.5 (737)	outside the ZTL, good value for money
Days 5–6 · Val d’Orcia	Agriturismo il Rigo	★ 4.8 (320)	classic agriturismo in the heart of the Val d’Orcia
Days 5–6 · Val d’Orcia	Vento d’Orcia	★ 5.0 (166)	small and superbly rated, near Pienza

Practical little things that save your nerves

Refuelling in Italy has its quirks. At petrol stations you’ll come across two types of pumps. A pump marked servito means an attendant fills the tank for you, but the fuel is significantly more expensive here. If you want to save money, head to the pump marked fai da te, which is classic self-service where you pay by card at the terminal. Off-season especially, bear in mind that rural petrol stations take a lunch break and there’s simply no attendant.

Another lifesaver for your nerves is navigation. Definitely download offline maps to your phone. In the hilly terrain of the Val d’Orcia or the forests up north, mobile signal drops out very often, and getting lost among the vineyards in the dark isn’t exactly the dream experience. Plenty of farms sit at the end of those famous white roads, and the moment your signal dies in the middle of a Y-shaped junction between two fields, you’d trade gold for an offline map.

When planning your drives, try to avoid driving on Sunday afternoons. This is when Italians return en masse from weekend trips to the sea or the countryside, and the main routes to the big cities, especially those towards Florence, get hopelessly clogged. As for parking in smaller hilltop towns like Volterra or Siena, the paid lots below the walls are often cheaper than the garages in the centre, and a system of escalators conveniently carries you up to the sights.

As for the timing of your road trip itself, the best conditions for both driving and sightseeing are from April to June and then in September and early October. In these months you’ll avoid the biggest crowds and the exhausting summer heat, which can heat up the tarmac and cars to unbearable temperatures.

What to taste along the way

In Italy, food is always a joy, and Tuscany is no exception. Lukáš and I absolutely love this food, because the local cuisine offers fantastic vegetarian options. Definitely try pappa al pomodoro or panzanella, brilliant bread-and-tomato dishes. The hearty ribollita soup is great too (just ask in the restaurant whether it’s purely vegetable-based), or the typical thick pici pasta with a good dose of garlic.

Use your stops in the towns for tasting local specialities. In Pienza you simply have to buy the aged pecorino cheese, for a snack on the road I’d recommend the fluffy focaccia called schiacciata (definitely queue for it at the iconic All’Antico Vinaio in Florence), and with your coffee the hard almond biscuits cantucci, traditionally dipped in sweet wine. If you’re not among the vegetarians, the number one local speciality is the huge beef steak bistecca alla fiorentina (you’ll get a great, honest one at the family-run Trattoria Mario) or various salumi and wild boar sauces (cinghiale).

Tuscany is of course about wine, whether it’s Chianti Classico or the famous Brunello di Montalcino. But here comes the most practical piece of advice for drivers: if you drive, you don’t drink, even in the land of wine. In Italy the drink-driving limit is 0.5 per mille, which is roughly one small glass of wine with a meal. But if you’ve held your licence for less than 3 years, an absolute zero applies to you, and any alcohol behind the wheel means huge trouble with the police.

Stopping for lunch in a tucked-away Tuscan village, like the rustic Osteria Acquacheta in Montepulciano, is often the best gastronomic experience of the whole holiday. The vegetables here ripen under the hot southern sun, and even the most ordinary bread drizzled with local olive oil tastes utterly divine, so vegetarians will feel like they’re in a real paradise. Try to sit down occasionally somewhere without an English menu too, the immediate atmosphere is genuinely worth a little effort with a translation app.

For Lukáš and me, Italy is an absolute favourite precisely because of the incredible quality of the basic ingredients. Even plain country tomatoes with basil and fresh olive oil taste like a real miracle here, so you needn’t worry at all that you’d miss out on anything essential in the Tuscan countryside without meat specialities.

Where to next

If planning your Tuscan adventure has grabbed you, we’ve prepared more detailed articles to help you with the details:

• Tuscany: 30 most beautiful places and a 7-day itinerary
• Weather in Tuscany: temperatures by month and when to go
• Agriturismo in Tuscany: 20 tips, prices and how to choose
• Pisa: 37 tips on what to see and do

Frequently asked questions

You should have a rough plan in your head by now, but I understand that Italian roads can raise plenty of extra questions. Before my first trip I too trawled through dozens of forums looking for concrete answers to practical things that can really complicate a road trip.

So I’ve gathered the very most common questions you regularly send me in one place. Whether you’re wondering if you’ll manage with a fresh licence, or where’s best to park, here you’ll find clear and concise answers.

You arrive on your dream holiday in Italy, excited to explore the most beautiful beaches in Tuscany, but the moment you reach the shore, a small shock awaits. You see endless rows of neatly lined-up paid sunbeds topped with umbrellas, and suddenly you have no idea where you’re actually allowed to lay down your own towel. The Italian beach system can be a little confusing for a first-timer, but trust me — it follows clear rules.

Luckily, Tuscany doesn’t only offer paid full-service clubs. It also hides gorgeous wild coves, pine groves and dramatic cliffs. You just need to know exactly where to head, what to expect from each area and how to read the discreet local signs. I’ve put together a detailed guide that will walk you through the very best of the Tuscan coast.

The rules of Italian beaches are clearer than they look, and once you learn where the softest sand for kids lies and where you simply won’t get a spot without a reservation, you’ll be far better prepared than most travellers who show up blind every year.

TL;DR

• Paid vs. free beaches: Beach clubs take up plenty of space, but Italian law guarantees that at least 50% of the coast must remain freely accessible for free (look for the “spiaggia libera” signs).
• Sunbed prices: In the north, in Versilia, you’ll typically pay €20 to €40 per day; in the south, in Maremma, around €30 for a set. Extreme VIP tents can cost over €600.
• Three different coastlines: The northern Versilia is busy and sandy, the central stretch near Livorno offers wild rocks, and the southern Maremma hides untouched nature.
• Cala Violina by reservation only: You’ll only be let onto this famous beach with an online booking for €1 (max 700 people per day), which you have to make exactly 72 hours in advance.
• Swimming season: The water in Tuscany is pleasant from June to October, with the warmest sea (around 25 °C) waiting for you in August.
• Blue Flags: This year Tuscany once again earned 20 Blue Flags for water cleanliness and services, with most of them along the coast of the Livorno province.
• Top tip: Avoid the Italian holiday of Ferragosto (15 August), when the beaches and car parks are utterly, hopelessly packed.

How Italian beaches work: stabilimento balneare vs. spiaggia libera

Understanding the Italian beach system is absolutely essential to enjoying your holiday stress-free. The coast is split into two distinct worlds. The first is the stabilimento balneare, which is a paid beach club. Here you’ll find neat rows of umbrellas, showers, changing rooms, bars and lifeguards — but for all that comfort you have to pay to rent a set.

The second world is the spiaggia libera, or free beach. Here you can lay down absolutely anywhere with your own towel and umbrella without paying a single euro. Italian law clearly states that at least 50% of the coast must remain freely accessible. The catch is that these stretches are often pushed to the edges of the resorts or squeezed into narrow strips between the big clubs.

If you want to save money, your main task will be to look for the discreet “spiaggia libera” signs. Sometimes you’ll come across the variant “spiaggia libera attrezzata”, which is a compromise. Entry is free, but you have the option to voluntarily rent a sunbed on the spot or use a public shower.

Prices at the paid clubs vary by location and season. This year’s average for an umbrella and two sunbeds in the first to fourth row works out to roughly €225 per week in the peak August season. The luxurious northern Versilia easily charges €20 to €40 per day. The southern Maremma, by contrast, is a bit cheaper and you can get an umbrella there for around €10. A completely separate category is the VIP tents in Forte dei Marmi, which can cost an incredible €600 to €1,500 for a single day.

The three coasts of Tuscany: where to swim based on what you’re after

The Tuscan coast stretches for hundreds of kilometres, and it isn’t the same everywhere. While the north offers endless ribbons of fine sand lined with hotels, the central section drops into the sea in dramatic cliffs. Choosing the right area is crucial — the north and the south are almost different planets. I’ve put together a clear table so you can get your bearings easily.

Coastal area	Landscape and beach character	Ideal for
:—	:—	:—
Versilia (north)	Wide fine sand, a dense network of beach clubs, promenades, shallow water.	Families with kids and those looking for full service and facilities.
Livorno coast	Rocks, cliffs, hardly any sand, very clear and deep water.	Younger travellers, snorkelling fans and cliff jumpers.
Costa degli Etruschi	A mix of sand and dense pine groves, historic sights.	Nature lovers who want a compromise between service and calm.
Maremma (south)	Wild beaches in nature parks, sand dunes, driftwood.	Adventurers who don’t need bars and are after complete peace.
Elba and the islands	Romantic coves, pebbles and sand, Caribbean-coloured water.	More demanding travellers focused on swimming and diving.

20 most beautiful beaches in Tuscany

This year Tuscany holds a solid twenty Blue Flags. That’s an award for water cleanliness, good facilities and an eco-friendly approach to the coast. In other words: where the flag flies, you can swim with a clear conscience. Let’s take a detailed look at the most beautiful beaches, grouped by area from north to south.

Versilia: golden sand and endless service

Versilia is the symbol of the classic Italian summer holiday. Here you’ll find kilometres of wide sandy beaches with a very gentle slope into the sea, which makes the area a total paradise for families with small children. Just bear in mind that it’s the most expensive and most organised part of Tuscany.

1. Viareggio and its Art Nouveau promenade

Viareggio is the main resort of all of Versilia, and its beaches are lined with gorgeous historic buildings in the Art Nouveau style. The sand here is incredibly fine and the sea near the shore is pleasantly shallow, so you can head here with even the tiniest swimmers without worry. The beach clubs run like a perfectly oiled machine and compete with one another on services. You’ll typically pay between €20 and €40 per day to rent an umbrella and two sunbeds, depending on how close to the water you want to be.

But if you’d rather not splash out on pricey beach service, just head to the south of town. That’s where you’ll find the huge and very popular Spiaggia libera Viareggio. Travellers rate it with a superb 4.2 stars on Google from more than thirteen hundred reviews, which is a huge success for a free public beach. The local free beach is incredibly spacious and offers plenty of room for a towel even in the busiest August peak.

💡 TIP: Be prepared for parking across Viareggio to be quite the puzzle in summer. The town car parks fill up fast and are paid, so it’s definitely worth heading to the water ideally right after breakfast to snag the best spot. In the afternoon you can then spend your free time strolling along the famous seaside promenade full of excellent gelaterias and cafés.

2. Forte dei Marmi for luxury lovers

This is the absolute most upscale address on the Tuscan coast, where Italy’s high society and famous celebrities regularly come to relax. Prices at the local beach clubs reach astronomical heights, which makes this place more of an exclusive experience for the chosen few. Luxury VIP tents for families can cost an unbelievable €600 to €1,500 for a single day in peak summer season. For that money, though, you get perfectly maintained beaches where the sand is practically sieved, and staff who’ll bring you the moon.

Even if you don’t plan to spend the whole day on an overpriced sunbed, the little town is definitely worth a visit just for its inimitable, elegant atmosphere. Shop windows of luxury brands line the beautifully kept streets, and strolling here is an experience even for someone with no plans to shop (and you don’t, right? 😄). I’d definitely recommend an early-evening walk out onto the iconic Forte dei Marmi Pier, which has an excellent rating on the maps and draws plenty of people.

A sunset over the sea with the dramatic peaks of the Apuan Alps at your back is simply a sight you won’t easily forget. The cafés around the pier are a great stop for an early-evening aperitivo, over which you can calmly soak up that luxurious Italian holiday atmosphere.

3. Lido di Camaiore for a calmer family holiday

If the price tags in Forte dei Marmi scare you a little but you love the endlessly wide sandy beaches of the north, Lido di Camaiore is an absolutely great choice. The atmosphere here is much more relaxed and family-friendly, so you’ll feel really comfortable. The beach clubs have noticeably more reasonable prices, and the water is beautifully shallow for many metres out to sea — something you’ll appreciate especially when building sandcastles with little ones.

A big bonus of this spot is the excellent infrastructure and connection to the surroundings. A perfect cycle path runs along the whole beach, stretching the entire length of the Versilia coast. That means you can easily and safely get here by bike from the nearby inland towns, without having to deal with that eternal summer headache of complicated and expensive car parking.

Just rent a bicycle in the morning, toss your towel in the basket, and within a few minutes you can be jumping into the waves of the Tuscan sea. After a swim, you can then take a walk along the modern Pontile Bellavista Vittoria pier, which offers a beautiful view of the whole beach line and the majestic mountains in the distance.

4. Marina di Pietrasanta and its artistic vibe

This beach cleverly benefits from its proximity to the gorgeous inland town of Pietrasanta, which is full of sculpture workshops, boutiques and small independent galleries. The beach here is extremely wide and open, so even when it’s full of colourful umbrellas in season, it never feels unpleasantly cramped. The water is very clean and the beach service — from lifeguards to clean showers — works flawlessly.

A big advantage of Marina di Pietrasanta is that even in this fairly organised and pricey area you’ll find designated free-beach sections that are clean and very well maintained by the locals. For example, the local public beach holds a lovely four-star Google rating from more than a thousand happy visitors.

For me, it’s probably the best possible compromise for everyone who wants to use Versilia’s top-notch facilities and have good restaurants at hand, while still looking for slightly more acceptable prices than in the neighbouring luxury resorts. The historic centre of Pietrasanta itself is just a few minutes away by car, making it an ideal plan for the late afternoon.

Livorno coast: a paradise for jumpers and divers

The area around the port city of Livorno is completely different from the rest of Tuscany. You’ll find practically no sand here — it’s been replaced by dramatic rocky cliffs and deep, crystal-clear water. It’s an absolutely ideal area for snorkelling and for those who can’t stand getting sand everywhere.

5. Calafuria and its sandstone cliffs

The several-kilometre rocky drop that stretches just south of Livorno looks like something from another planet. The cliffs are pierced with thousands of tiny hollows from the seawater and constant wind. You won’t find a single grain of sand here — you simply lie directly on the warm flat rocks and sandstone terraces. If you hate having sand stick to your suncream, you’ll absolutely fall in love with this place.

Thanks to the absence of sand, the water here is incredibly clear, deep and full of little fish, so don’t forget to pack a good pair of snorkelling goggles in your backpack. The local youth regularly come here to practise cliff jumping and spend long summer afternoons with a guitar. The result is exactly the energy young Italians come back here for again and again.

💡 TIP: Travellers advise coming here outside weekends, because there isn’t an endless supply of flat rocks comfortable for lying on and they fill up fast. On top of that, cars are often just parked along the coastal road here, which can be quite a stressful experience in peak season.

6. Quercianella in the embrace of pines

This small and immensely peaceful village lies about 10 kilometres south of bustling Livorno and offers a completely different, much slower world. It has proudly held a Blue Flag continuously since 2007, which speaks for itself and guarantees the highest possible water quality and cleanliness in the wider area. The beaches here aren’t classic sand but small pebbles and smooth rocks that dip into the brilliantly turquoise sea.

While you swim, the mainland surrounds you with beautifully fragrant pine forests that provide pleasant shade on hot summer days and wonderfully scent the whole air. It’s a wonderful and very romantic spot for couples looking for an escape from the noise of the big resorts and who don’t mind slightly trickier access to the water over the rocks.

But definitely bring some good water shoes, because the rocks can be pretty slippery in the morning and walking barefoot could needlessly spoil your swim. The local restaurants above the beach then offer superb views of the evening sea.

7. Castiglioncello, straight out of an Italian film

This exceptionally elegant resort, built on a small wooded peninsula, has a very famous past. Back in the 1960s it was a favourite retreat for the stars of the Italian silver screen, and to this day its streets have kept their unmistakable, refined charm. Picturesque rocky coves await you here, with crystal-clear water and plenty of natural shade from the surrounding pines, which grow almost right down to the shore.

Even this prestigious spot comfortably retained its international Blue Flag award for a clean environment this year. Swimming here has enormous style and atmosphere; you just have to bear in mind that the beaches are rather small and get very busy with tourists from all over the world in the August season.

Just like everywhere around Livorno, I’d recommend packing water shoes here too. Entering the waves over the rocks and pebbles is extremely photogenic, but for sensitive feet it can be a bit tough without shoes. After a swim, be sure to take a stroll along the coastal Pineta Marradi promenade, which is shaded by pine canopies.

8. Antignano and Boccale for a local experience

Just past the southern edge of the port city of Livorno lies the quiet residential district of Antignano, which flows smoothly into a dramatic bay with the stunning Castello del Boccale. These are very small, photogenic rocky coves that don’t attract crowds of foreign tourists — mostly just locals come here for a quick refresh after work. Thanks to that, you’ll experience the real Italy here without any artificial gloss.

You’ll find practically no tourist service here — don’t expect tidy showers, lifeguards or rows of paid sunbeds. Your reward, though, will be a completely authentic Tuscan atmosphere and breathtaking views that look exactly like expensive postcards. The castle itself isn’t open to the public, but it makes the perfect backdrop for your holiday photos.

The best way to explore these coves is with your own towel, a good book and a small snack — find your own bit of flat rock and just soak up the unique energy of this rugged but beautiful stretch of coast.

Costa degli Etruschi: where history meets the sea

The Etruscan coast stretches from Livorno down to Piombino. It offers an amazing mix of sandy beaches, protected pine groves and ancient history. It’s a perfect choice for those who want to spend part of the day by the water and part of it exploring the surroundings.

9. Baratti with its shimmering black sand

Baratti bay is one of the most fascinating and unique places in all of sunny Italy. The sand here has an unusual dark colour and shimmers beautifully in direct sunlight. This is down to a high content of iron and slag residues, which skilled Etruscans processed here in their furnaces on a large scale back in ancient times. When you lie down on your towel here, you’re lying on a real piece of fascinating ancient history.

Right behind the beach lies the huge Baratti and Populonia archaeological park, so you can easily combine a morning swim with an afternoon tour of ancient tombs and excavations. Most of the beautifully curved bay works as a spacious free beach, lined on one side by the calm sea and on the other by a huge pine forest.

The trees provide fantastic natural shade, so local families love coming here to have long summer picnics under the branches and rest before the scorching afternoon sun. Parking by the bay is paid, so I recommend keeping some coins on hand for the machines.

10. San Vincenzo for family bliss

This exceptionally popular seaside resort is an absolute safe bet if you’re travelling with smaller kids and need perfect beach services with no compromises. Kilometres of fine, very pale sand are deservedly awarded a Blue Flag for cleanliness, and the entry into the water is beautifully gentle, so children can splash around safely for hours. The water in these shallow spots also tends to be pleasantly warm right from the start of summer.

Besides the traditional paid clubs full of colourful umbrellas, there’s one big natural surprise here too. Just south of town lies the sprawling Parco Naturale di Rimigliano nature park, which offers long stretches of free sandy beach surrounded by completely untouched nature and protected sand dunes.

It’s a great spot if you want to be close to town for a good evening pizza, but during the day you’d rather have wilder swimming with your own umbrella far from the noisy beach bars.

11. Marina di Cecina and its shady groves

The biggest advantage of this sought-after beach is the mighty pine forest called Riserva Naturale Tombolo di Cecina, which stretches right behind the sand dunes for an incredible 15 kilometres. When the beach gets too hot around midday, you only need to take a few steps to hide in the blissful, cooling shade of the fragrant trees. In the protected forest you’ll also find plenty of well-kept trails ideal for morning runs or safe off-road cycling.

The beach itself is also a proud holder of the prestigious Blue Flag this year, which in the Livorno province is a clear guarantee of quality. It’s made of slightly coarser sand with the occasional scattering of small pebbles, so it doesn’t stick to your body as much after a swim.

Thanks to the excellent sea currents, the water here tends to be beautifully clean and refreshing. The spot is very popular both with local Italian families and with foreign tourists who love coming back every year for that perfect calm and the scent of pine.

12. Marina di Bibbona around the old fort

This next in a long line of proud holders of the prestigious Blue Flag is defined by endlessly wide beaches naturally lined with sand dunes and typical Mediterranean scrub. The standout landmark of this stretch of coast is the historic Forte di Macchia fort, which gives the whole place a special historic charm and serves as a great point of reference when you set out on a longer walk along the water.

You’ll find a truly excellent balance between well-equipped beach clubs and extensive stretches of free natural beach. So each day you can choose whether to pay for a comfortable sunbed with bar service, or bring your own gear and lay down a towel a little further from the crowds on the sand.

Thanks to the generous vastness of the whole beach, even in the peak August season you won’t get that unpleasant crowded feeling like on the narrow beaches of northern Versilia. The water here is also wonderfully clean and full of little fish.

Maremma: the wild south for adventurers

The Maremma area at the very south of Tuscany is the least urbanised part of the coast. Here you’ll find vast nature parks, driftwood and beaches without a scrap of concrete. If you love nature and don’t mind a short walk to the sea, you’ll fall for Maremma.

13. Cala Violina and its strict reservation system

This is absolutely crucial information you need to know before heading south. Cala Violina is widely considered the single most beautiful beach in all of Tuscany, but without a prior online reservation you simply won’t get onto it at all. To protect the fragile nature, a so-called numero chiuso operates here, meaning a strict limit of a maximum of 700 visitors per day. The beach is open from 8:30 to 18:30 and the guards at the entrance are absolutely uncompromising.

You have to make your reservation through the official website calaviolinascarlino.it for a symbolic fee of €1 per person. The catch, though, is that the booking system opens exactly 72 hours before your planned visit day, so you have to be quite quick at the computer — in summer, spots disappear in a flash.

Children aged 1 to 12 don’t pay a single euro, but they absolutely must have a reservation in the system to count towards the daily limit (children under 1 don’t need a reservation). The beach’s name otherwise refers to the wonderfully fine silica sand that makes a fascinating sound resembling a violin as you walk on it. Travellers give this magical spot a fantastic rating of 4.6 from more than 7 thousand reviews, so that little bit of effort with the reservation is definitely worth it.

14. Marina di Alberese with regulated traffic

This gorgeous and utterly wild beach lies right in the heart of the Parco Regionale della Maremma national park, directly beneath the dramatic peaks of the Monti dell’Uccellina range. In the peak summer season, though, you can’t drive here in your own car — entry into the strictly protected area is carefully regulated. You have to leave your car at a large park-and-ride lot inland and reach the sea by an alternative route, which turns the visit into a little adventure.

You can use the park shuttle or rent a bike and ride through the fragrant pine forests. And then suddenly you find yourself on a beach welcomed by giant driftwood logs, as if someone had deliberately arranged them. The winter sea and swollen rivers bring them here, and visitors build amazing improvised huts and shelters from these dry logs against the scorching sun, giving the beach a completely unique, almost castaway atmosphere you won’t easily see anywhere else in Italy. The spot holds an incredible rating of 4.7 stars from more than 3 thousand people.

15. Cala Civette, the wild neighbour

If you happen not to grab a reservation in time for the famous Cala Violina, definitely don’t despair or give up. In the very next cove lies its sister Cala Civette, which is according to locals just as gorgeous, but luckily no reservation system applies here. Travellers rate it a superb 4.6 stars in reviews and often call it the best-hidden gem of all Maremma.

You do have to walk here on foot along a dusty and slightly rougher path from the car park, but your reward will be wonderfully crystal water and a romantic view of the medieval Torre Civette watchtower, which rises on a cliff right above the beach.

You won’t find any bars, restaurants or toilets here at all, so you have to bring absolutely all your own gear, plenty of drinking water and food for the whole day. A trip here is simply for those who love raw, unglossed nature and don’t mind giving up standard tourist comfort for one afternoon.

16. Cala Martina full of history

The third in the trio within the gorgeous protected bay near the town of Scarlino is the Cala Martina cove. Unlike its two sandy neighbours, it doesn’t have fine sand — its surface is mostly made of pebbles and stones, so water shoes are an absolute must here if you don’t want to painfully scrape your feet. But thanks to those very stones, the water here is incredibly clean and ideal for a full day of snorkelling around the rocks.

It’s a very peaceful, almost isolated spot that, besides its natural beauty, was also made famous by the great Italian unifier Giuseppe Garibaldi. It was from this hidden cove that he dramatically fled in 1849 from his pursuers on a fishing boat to safety.

This important historic event is commemorated to this day by a large memorial stone placed along the access path. Locals love coming here to read a book and enjoy the absolute silence far from the tourist bustle, because the average tourist usually doesn’t want to walk here on foot.

17. Feniglia and the deer trails in the dunes

Feniglia is a fascinating narrow sand spit, technically called a tombolo, which naturally connects the Tuscan mainland with the stunning rocky Monte Argentario peninsula. This six-kilometre nature reserve is completely closed to any car traffic, so you can only move around here on foot or on a rented bike. The path runs the whole way in the blissful shade of a dense, dark-green pine forest.

The beach is immensely wide along its entire length, works largely as a free beach and offers an endless view of the open sea. If you walk quietly through the forest behind the beach, with a bit of luck you’ll come across wild deer, which are quite used to the presence of people and occasionally wander right to the edge of the sand dunes.

If you’re the kind of person who always leaves a beach with pockets full of shells and stones, Feniglia will stock you up for years to come. If you want a bit of comfort, at both ends of the beach you’ll find small beach clubs where you can rent sunbeds.

18. Giannella, a paradise for surfers

Giannella is the second large sand spit that forms the northern approach to the majestic Monte Argentario peninsula. Compared with its southern neighbour Feniglia, it’s a bit windier and more exposed to the weather, which makes it an immensely popular and sought-after destination for windsurfing and kitesurfing lovers. When the right wind picks up here, the sky over the sea instantly fills with dozens of colourful kites and sails.

The beach is lined on one side by popular campsites and smaller resorts, so unlike the wild Feniglia it offers far more beach services, equipment rentals and pleasant seaside restaurants. So you can easily pop away from the water straight to a great lunch.

It’s definitely worth coming here for a stroll in the early evening, because thanks to its strategic western orientation, Giannella offers some of the very best and most photogenic sunsets on the entire southern coast of Tuscany. Watching the sun slowly disappear beyond the horizon with a glass of wine in hand is an unforgettable experience here.

The islands: turquoise sea and snorkelling

The Tuscan Archipelago, led by Elba, hides water so clear that phone photos simply can’t capture it — and yet thousands of travellers try in vain every year. If you’re after the absolute clearest water in the whole region, you’ll have to hop on a ferry.

19. Spiaggia di Sansone on Elba

This amazing spot is, without any exaggeration, the absolute visual gem of all of Elba island — and perhaps of all Tuscany. The beach is made of brilliant white, perfectly smoothed pebbles, which give the water near the shore an incredible, pale turquoise colour you probably won’t see anywhere else on mainland Tuscany. Travellers from all over the world shower it with praise in their reviews, and it boasts a phenomenal rating of 4.7 stars from more than 7,400 people.

You have to climb down from the car park to the beach along a fairly steep and narrow cliff path, but that first view from above will reliably take your breath away and force you to reach for your camera. Definitely don’t forget to bring your full snorkelling kit here, because underwater visibility is absolutely fantastic and the white seabed beautifully reflects the sun’s rays.

Given its huge popularity and smaller size, I strongly recommend arriving at Sansone early in the morning, before the little cove fills up completely with people and umbrellas.

20. Cavoli, Elba’s sandy magnet

While the famous Sansone is purely pebbly, the Cavoli cove on the protected southern coast of Elba offers perfectly golden silica sand and a very specific, extremely warm microclimate. The cove is perfectly shielded from the north from colder winds by massive mountains, so the warmth lingers here like in an oven and you can comfortably swim from the beginning of May all the way to late October.

Thanks to its fine sand and shallow water, it’s probably the most popular family beach on the whole island. But bear in mind that in August it gets truly, extremely crowded here and you’ll struggle to find a free spot to spread out your own towel on the sand.

If you like a lively atmosphere, beach bars with music and don’t mind the crowds around you, you’ll love it here. But if you’re after peace and quiet, save your Cavoli visit for the sunny September days, when most Italian families head back home.

When to go to the Tuscan beaches

The swimming season in Tuscany lasts quite a while — you can comfortably swim here from June to October. The sea warms up quickly at the start of summer, and in Livorno by late June the water temperature usually doesn’t drop below 20 °C. The warmest water naturally awaits you in August, when the sea reaches a very pleasant 24 to 25 °C. In the winter months, by contrast, the sea cools and the temperature drops to around 13 °C, so swimming in December is really only for the hardy.

If you want to experience emptier beaches and smarter prices, the absolutely ideal month to visit is September. After the hot summer the water still holds a great temperature, but sunbed prices at the beach clubs are slowly dropping and the biggest madness of endlessly hunting for parking is gradually fading. Another great local trick is to visit off-season, in late autumn or early spring. When the beach clubs officially close for winter, they’re required by law to remove all their paid sunbeds, leaving the areas freely accessible. So you can walk along the most expensive beaches completely for free and enjoy the calm murmur of the sea.

One absolutely crucial warning, though, concerns mid-August. Around the giant Italian holiday of Ferragosto (15 August), the beaches experience the absolute peak of the rush. Traffic jams on the coastal roads are endless and popular beach clubs report being sold out weeks in advance. At this time practically all of Italy takes its collective holiday and moves en masse to the sea. If you possibly can, definitely give this period a wide berth for a beach holiday — you’ll spare yourself a lot of needless stress.

Practical tips worth knowing

Before you head to the Tuscan sea, go through a few local specifics — it’ll save you a lot of nerves and money, I promise:

1. Parking is the biggest problem: At popular beaches in summer, you park far away and quite expensively. If you don’t want to circle for half an hour, you have to head to the beach early in the morning, ideally before nine. 2. Bring water shoes: A huge part of the Tuscan coast (especially near Livorno and on Elba) is rocky or pebbly. Without water shoes you’ll needlessly spoil the experience. 3. Your own umbrella pays for itself fast: If you plan to explore free beaches, buy a simple umbrella at the supermarket for a few euros on your very first day. The summer sun here is relentless and shade is scarce. 4. Keep an eye on your Cala Violina reservation: Turning up at this beach blind means you’ll be turned away at the barrier. Reserve your tickets exactly 72 hours in advance — the system won’t let you in earlier. 5. Count on shuttle transport: At Marina di Alberese you park your car kilometres away and have to take a park bus to the sea. Don’t bring more than you can carry in your hands. 6. The wind decides the waves: On Elba and the peninsulas, the golden rule applies. When a strong south wind blows, head to north-facing beaches, and vice versa. The sea there will be like a mirror. 7. Off-season the clubs are free: When the beach clubs close in autumn, they remove the sunbeds and the areas stay freely accessible. So you can walk along the best beaches completely for free.

What to eat at the beach (and save money)

A classic beach restaurant can give your wallet quite a workout, but the locals know how to eat fantastically and cheaply. I absolutely recommend trying the Livorno street food called torta di ceci — a great one is made, for example, at Antica Torteria da Gagarin right in Livorno. It’s a thin, crisp-baked flatbread made of chickpea flour, water and olive oil. It’s naturally vegan and gluten-free and tastes incredibly good, especially when lightly sprinkled with black pepper.

Locals often buy this flatbread in a form called “5 e 5” (cinque e cinque). It means they tuck the hot chickpea flatbread into a sliced bread roll, often with pieces of marinated aubergine. It’s hearty, cheap and absolutely ideal for the beach. On the menus of coastal restaurants you’ll also often see the local speciality Cacciucco, a traditional and very thick fish stew with seafood served with toasted bread.

Where to stay by the sea

💡 Accommodation tip and experiences: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, where the cancellation terms tend to be the best. Tickets, tours and activities are then worth comparing and buying through GetYourGuide.

Choosing accommodation depends mainly on the type of holiday you actually prefer. Tuscany is huge, and it pays to pick a base strategically close to the beaches that appeal to you most from the descriptions. Staying in the north and commuting south would cost you a lot of nerves and time stuck in summer traffic.

If you’re travelling with smaller kids and want mainly sand and full service: Definitely look for accommodation in the north in the Versilia area, ideally in towns like Viareggio or Lido di Camaiore. You’ll find plenty of classic hotels with pools here, just a few steps from the long beach promenade. It’s incredibly convenient, with lots of restaurants and gelaterias nearby. Try, for instance, the popular Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte in Viareggio, but bear in mind you’ll pay extra in season for this comfort and luxury location.

For romance for two and endless snorkelling: Choose the rocky area south of Livorno, especially the towns of Castiglioncello or the calmer Quercianella. Accommodation here consists more of small family guesthouses and stylish boutique hotels, such as Hotel Atlantico, cleverly tucked away in the pine forests high above the cliffs. It’s much more intimate here, but it’s harder to get around without a car, as the terrain is quite hilly.

For complete peace and a connection with nature: Focus on the wilder Costa degli Etruschi area or head straight for the southern Maremma. An absolutely ideal choice here is to try agriturismo accommodation — beautifully renovated rural estates and working farms. You’ll sleep in the middle of untouched nature, drink local wine and in many cases cool your feet in a pool right by the house. You do have to drive to the sea along quieter country roads, but it usually takes no more than 10 to 15 minutes, and the evening calm is definitely worth it.

And if you don’t want to spend ages choosing, here are five specific seaside hotels that consistently have good ratings:

• Versilia Lido | UNA Esperienze — right by the beach in Versilia, a good choice for families, ★ 4.7 from 1,886 reviews.
• Grand Hotel Royal Viareggio — a classic on the Viareggio promenade, ★ 4.6 from 818 reviews.
• Hotel Plaza e de Russie — a historic hotel in the centre of Viareggio with a rooftop terrace, ★ 4.3 from 375 reviews.
• Hotel Sabrina — a quiet option in Maremma a short walk from the sea, ★ 4.6 from 276 reviews.
• Hotel Miramare — by the beach in Castiglione della Pescaia, ★ 4.5 from 525 reviews.

Where to go next

• Tuscany: 30 most beautiful places and a 7-day itinerary
• Elba island: what to see, the most beautiful beaches and the ferry
• Weather in Tuscany: temperatures by month and when to go
• Agriturismo in Tuscany: 20 tips, prices and how to choose
• Where to go on holiday in Italy: 20 best places

Frequently asked questions

The Italian beach system can be a little confusing at first. To save you time hunting for information, I’ve put together answers to the most common questions you’re likely to have before heading to the Tuscan sea.

When you’re hunting for your dream Tuscany villa with a pool, it’s surprisingly easy to fall into one very sneaky trap that you only discover once you arrive. Booking sites are full of hundreds of gorgeous listings promising a refreshing dip, but in reality it’s very often a pool shared with several other apartments, where a handful of families crowd together all summer long. If you’re dreaming of total peace with a view of the cypress trees, you’ll need to choose much more carefully and read between the lines.

I went through the current listings for you and put together a detailed overview of the 20 most beautiful villas and houses with a pool, all with fantastic reviews from previous guests. I focused on different corners of this picturesque region so you can pick exactly what suits you — whether you’re after wine tastings or peace and quiet in the countryside. For each recommendation I also make it clear how the swimming situation really works, so you know exactly what you’re signing up for.

Everything you need — how to reliably spot a private pool, why fencing is crucial for families with small children, and which hidden fees to watch out for — is below. Renting a whole house works by slightly different rules than an ordinary hotel booking, so it pays to know the details before you type in your card number.

TL;DR

• Private vs. shared pool: Borgo-style complexes almost always have a pool shared by all guests.
• Fenced pool for kids: Look for the phrase “piscina recintata” in listings, which guarantees safety for the little ones.
• Swimming season: Outdoor pools are usually open only from June to September.
• Minimum stay: In high season, villas are often rented exclusively Saturday to Saturday.
• Deposit and cleaning: Budget for an extra final cleaning fee and a security deposit held on your card.
• No air conditioning: Traditional stone farmhouses often don’t have it at all, or only in some bedrooms.
• You’ll need a car: Most houses are reached via unpaved roads (strade bianche), so a car is essential.
• When to book: June and September offer the best value and weather, but sort out your stay up to six months ahead.

Private or shared pool? How to tell in advance

The biggest disappointment after arriving on holiday is realising you have to share the sun loungers with other people. If you absolutely insist on privacy, look for the phrase “private pool” or “exclusive pool” in the listing title, which is usually a reliable guarantee. Owners who offer the house to you alone are happy to show off this huge advantage right in the headline.

On the other hand, the description often includes the subtle phrase “shared pool”, which clearly signals sharing with other apartments. If you’re browsing complexes labelled borgo or case vacanza, you can be almost certain the pool is always communal for the whole property. These historic little villages converted into accommodation have wonderful atmosphere, but private swimming simply isn’t part of the deal.

If you’re not 100% sure from the photos and descriptions, don’t hesitate to message the owner directly through Booking.com. Italians usually reply very quickly and will happily confirm whether you’ll have the whole garden entirely to yourself. It’s a far better solution than spending your holiday disillusioned that your dream romance by the water looks more like a public swimming pool.

What renting a villa actually includes

Renting a whole private house works a little differently from booking a standard hotel room. A villa is always rented as a whole, with a minimum stay usually ranging from three to seven nights. In peak summer, owners often require both arrival and departure to fall on the weekend — most commonly you’ll come across a Saturday-to-Saturday rule, and a short mid-week stay is practically impossible.

Another specific feature is the security deposit, which is held on your payment card on arrival to cover any damage to the property. On top of that, there’s very often a one-off final cleaning fee that usually isn’t included in the base price shown in the search engine. So I recommend reading the booking terms carefully so you know exactly how much extra you’ll be paying.

It’s also important to remember that the pool is a seasonal thing and usually operates from May or June to September. Outside those months the water may be drained or covered with a tarp, even if the weather is gorgeous. Air conditioning is also far from standard in these old stone farmhouses — it’s often missing entirely, or only available in select bedrooms under the roof.

Absolutely essential is transport by your own or a rented car. Most of the loveliest secluded spots sit at the end of the so-called strade bianche — the typical unpaved white dusty roads that wind between the hills. Without a car you not only can’t get there, you also can’t nip out to buy fresh bread in the nearest village.

Where to stay: 20 of the most beautiful Tuscany villas with a pool

💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation policies. For tickets, tours and activities, it’s worth comparing and booking through GetYourGuide.

Let’s take a look at the specific places to stay that earned the best ratings from previous guests. I’ve neatly divided all the tips into six popular areas, so you can choose the location that best fits your travel plans.

Villas in the Val d’Orcia and around Pienza

This area is exactly the landscape you know from postcards, calendars and films. Here you’ll find the most iconic rolling hills, solitary cypress avenues and historic little towns like Pienza and Montalcino. It’s an ideal spot for lovers of photography, sweeping views and the famous pecorino sheep’s cheese.

1. Poggio ai Gelsi

This beautiful house sits right beside picturesque Pienza and offers absolutely breathtaking views over the surrounding UNESCO-listed landscape. It boasts a rating of 9.1 Wonderful and a huge 439 reviews, making it one of the most tried-and-tested options in the whole area. Guests return again and again not just for the great location, but also for the incredible peace this place radiates.

You’ll have a gorgeous outdoor pool with a view over the valley, a spacious sun terrace for topping up your tan, and reliable air conditioning for hot summer days. Another plus is hassle-free free parking right on the property, which saves plenty of worry on day trips. The approximate starting price per night here is around €235, though it always depends on the specific dates and availability.

The place is absolutely ideal for couples and small groups of friends who want the best of the Italian countryside right at their fingertips. Mist in the valley in the morning, wine and sunset in the evening. At €235 per night you’d be hard pressed to find better value.

👉 Booking: Check availability and prices on Booking.com

2. Villa Fonte all’Oppio con area piscina recintata

If you’re heading off on holiday with little explorers, this house near Pienza should be top of your list. It has an excellent rating of 8.6 Excellent from 41 guests and offers something that’s surprisingly rare in Italy. The owners proudly announce right in the name that their property has a specially adapted pool area.

The biggest treasure for parents here is the properly fenced pool, which ensures your little ones can’t reach the water without your supervision. This safety feature is an absolutely crucial factor for families with small children — one that, sadly, hardly ever gets mentioned on blogs. So you can read a book on the terrace in peace while the kids run around the garden without you having to watch them every single second.

Beyond safety, the villa offers beautiful rustic interiors with exposed beams and a spacious kitchen where you can easily whip up dinner for the whole family. It sits on a gentle slope, so it offers lovely views of the surrounding rolling countryside that’s so typical of this part of the region.

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3. Casa Guaitoli

This charming property is located near the historic thermal baths of Terme di Petriolo and is a great choice for budget-conscious travellers. It boasts a fantastic rating of 9.3 Wonderful based on 174 reviews, proving that quality doesn’t always mean an empty wallet. Guests most love the amazing hospitality and the perfectly maintained outdoor spaces.

Waiting for you is a lovely outdoor pool with a view over the greenery, a well-kept sprawling garden full of shade, and a handy grill for evening gatherings. With an approximate starting price from around €90 per night, this is probably the best value for money in our whole roundup. Of course, in August you’ll pay more, but off-season it’s an absolute steal.

The location near the thermal springs also offers a great alternative for days when it might be a touch too chilly by the outdoor pool. You can head to the baths, warm up in the healing water, and return in the afternoon to your peaceful countryside retreat.

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4. Casa vacanze Raggio di Sole

This holiday home in the Grotte area is made for those who demand total privacy and don’t want to share their space with strangers. It’s earned a brilliant rating of 9.6 Exceptional from 111 happy guests, who in their reviews often highlight the spotless cleanliness and peaceful location. The owners look after the house with enormous care, and you can see it at every turn.

The biggest draw here is undoubtedly the genuinely private pool, reserved just for you and your family throughout your entire stay. For an approximate starting price from around €125 per night you also get free parking right by the house and every comfort imaginable. It’s a great opportunity to experience the luxury of your own swimming without paying astronomical sums.

The house is surrounded by greenery and offers a beautiful terrace where you can enjoy your morning espresso or an evening glass of wine. The garden provides plenty of shade and space to relax, so you may well find you don’t want to set foot off the property for the whole week.

Villas near Montepulciano and Vino Nobile

If your main goal is discovering great wine, the area around Montepulciano will absolutely delight you. This part of Italy is home to the famous Vino Nobile wine, and the surrounding hills are densely dotted with endless vineyards. The local historic towns also brim with excellent restaurants and cosy wine bars.

p>👉 Booking: Check availability and prices on Booking.com

5. Borgo del Faggio – Case Vacanza

This sprawling complex near Montepulciano is one of the best-known and most sought-after places to stay in the whole area. It boasts a great rating of 8.9 Excellent and holds the largest number of reviews in our roundup — an impressive 475, which speaks to its enormous popularity. The estate resembles a little historic village, where the genuine countryside atmosphere of times past washes over you.

It’s very important, though, to point out one crucial thing so there’s no disappointment on arrival. Since this is a borgo-style complex, the pool here is shared with other guests staying in the other apartments. If you don’t mind a bit of company and enjoy chatting with fellow travellers by the water, this will be a perfect choice full of holiday cheer.

The property offers beautifully maintained gardens, typical stone and wood architecture, and a very strategic location for wine day trips. Each apartment has its own outdoor seating, so you’ll definitely have privacy for dinner or morning coffee. The atmosphere here just works. Stone walls, that proper Tuscan air, and yet you don’t have to worry about where the wifi is. Ideal for anyone who loves history without the hard work.

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6. Le Corolle

This charming house sits in a strategic spot near the renowned wine town of Montepulciano. It enjoys an excellent rating of 9.3 Wonderful from 132 guests, who can’t praise enough the warm welcome and carefully maintained grounds. It’s exactly the kind of place where you feel like you’re visiting good friends from the very first minute.

On warm summer days you’ll appreciate the beautiful outdoor pool with a breathtaking view over the surrounding countryside of vineyards and olive groves. The house also has a sprawling garden, a handy grill for al fresco dinners, fast wifi and free parking. Everything is set up so you can enjoy your holiday without any worries or compromises.

The surroundings invite endless walks among the vineyards and the discovery of small family wineries. In the evening you can drive into the centre of Montepulciano, pick up fresh ingredients at the market, and grill them back in the garden.

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7. Corolle2

Right next door to the previous property you’ll find this smaller but all the more cosy sister listing. So far it has a superb rating of 9.6 Exceptional from just 7 guests, but the quality of service and attention to detail is at exactly the same level. It’s an ideal retreat for couples or small families looking for a more intimate atmosphere.

Guests have every comfort at their disposal, including access to refreshing water, all at a very appealing approximate starting price from around €135 per night. The interiors are furnished with incredible feeling for tradition, so there’s no shortage of terracotta floors, solid wooden furniture and cosy textiles. You’ll feel like you’re in a romantic Italian film from the 1980s.

The location is absolutely ideal for day trips all across the southern tip of the region. You can easily set off for a tasting of the famous Vino Nobile, cycle a rented bike through the surrounding hills, or just laze about with a book in the shade of the old trees.

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8. Podere Pisinano – Tuscan villa with swimming pool

This gorgeous countryside villa has its greatest asset spelled out clearly right in its name, so you know exactly what to look forward to. It boasts an absolutely excellent rating of 9.6 Exceptional from 5 guests, and even though there aren’t many reviews yet, every single one heaps incredible praise on this place. The owners take care over every detail to make your stay utterly flawless.

Swimming takes centre stage here, and the wonderful pool is set right into the greenery with views over the endless vineyards around Montepulciano. The villa has undergone a very sensitive renovation, so from the outside it looks like a historic farmhouse, but inside it offers every modern comfort imaginable. It’s a great choice for a group of friends who want to spend evenings together around a big table on the terrace.

The proximity to Montepulciano means you’re just a few minutes’ drive from the best restaurants and historic sights. And yet you sleep in total silence surrounded by nature, far from the noise of tour buses. Evenings around the big table on the terrace, vineyards outside the window in the morning. For a group of friends, you’ll struggle to find a better backdrop.

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9. Villetta Toscana – Montepulciano

If you’re travelling just as a couple or with a small child, this delightful little villa near the vineyards definitely shouldn’t slip past you. It’s earned a beautiful rating of 9.6 Exceptional based on 11 reviews from previous visitors, who most often praise the perfect cleanliness and very warm welcome. It’s a compact but incredibly cosy spot for a peaceful holiday.

This smaller villa for a couple or a small family offers complete privacy and a beautifully landscaped outdoor space for summer days. The house is surrounded by a carefully maintained garden, where you’ll find plenty of shady nooks for reading or an afternoon siesta. The kitchen is very well equipped, so you can easily cook up anything you bring back from the local market.

Thanks to its strategic location, you’ll be a short drive from both shopping and culture in town and long walks in nature. The owners will also happily advise you on choosing the best wineries in the area — the kind ordinary tourists usually never reach.

Villas near San Gimignano

The town of San Gimignano — often nicknamed the medieval Manhattan thanks to its tall stone towers — is one of the most famous symbols of the whole of Italy. Staying in this area lets you admire the town’s unmistakable skyline right from the water, and you’ll also be very close to other gems like Siena and Florence.

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10. Villa Remignoli

This gorgeous property lies right beside the famous medieval towers and offers an incredibly romantic setting for your holiday. Guests rated it 9.6 Exceptional based on 19 reviews, in which they often mention the fantastic location and very spacious rooms. It’s a classic example of robust Tuscan architecture that will charm you at first sight.

The garden with its spacious seating is made for long summer evenings with a glass of white Vernaccia, grown right on the surrounding slopes. The views over the countryside are breathtaking and the peace around you is a real balm for the soul after a day in the bustling town centre. The house is ideal for a larger family looking for plenty of space and privacy.

Thanks to the great accessibility, you can set off into San Gimignano early in the morning, before the day-trip crowds arrive. Wander the empty streets, stop for the famous gelato on the square, and retreat safely back into the shade of your villa before the midday heat. It’s the best way to truly enjoy this famous town to the full.

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11. PAPAVERO ROSSO

This accommodation gem near San Gimignano boasts a truly exceptional status that’s sure to catch your eye. It’s earned an absolutely incredible rating of 9.8 Exceptional from 15 guests, making it the highest-rated place to stay in our whole roundup today. Such a high score guarantees that a truly extraordinary experience awaits you, without a single hitch.

Guests agree that here you don’t have to worry about a thing and everything works as it should. The outdoor spaces are an absolute oasis of calm, where you can relax after a day of exploring and gather strength for the next. The owners look after their guests with such care that nobody wants to leave for home.

The location is absolutely strategic for discovering the biggest hits of central Tuscany. Within less than an hour’s drive you can reach Volterra, Siena and Florence. And yet in the evening you return to a place where you hear only crickets and the wind in the olive tree crowns. If you’re after flawless quality, you definitely won’t go wrong here.

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12. Dolce Villa Toscana – private pool, air conditioning

If for you a holiday is a synonym for absolute luxury and you refuse to make any compromises, this stunning villa will instantly win you over. It boasts a fantastic rating of 9.7 Exceptional from 11 guests, who spare no superlatives in their reviews and highlight the utterly professional approach. It’s a place that fulfils even the most demanding ideas of perfect accommodation.

As the name suggests, waiting for you is a genuine private pool plus air conditioning, which in these historic houses is a huge and very rare advantage. I must warn you, though, that we’re in the highest luxury segment here, so the approximate starting price begins at around €990 per night. For that sum, however, you get service, facilities and privacy that are hard to match.

The villa is fitted with the latest technology while still keeping its historic charm and authenticity. You can hire a private chef to prepare dinner, or simply laze on designer loungers and enjoy views reminiscent of Renaissance paintings. You’ll pay extra for this, but when you’re celebrating an anniversary or on your honeymoon, €990 per night suddenly becomes a very understandable amount. 😉

Villas near Cortona and in the Val di Chiana

The town of Cortona, made famous by the celebrated book and film Under the Tuscan Sun, sits high on a hilltop and looks down over the fertile Val di Chiana. This area offers a calmer, more authentic atmosphere than the overcrowded north, great restaurants in the winding streets, and beautiful views all the way to Lake Trasimeno.

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13. Villa Augusto

This impressive villa near Cortona looks like it’s been cut straight out of an interiors magazine and is guaranteed to charm you with its atmosphere. It achieved an excellent rating of 9.4 Wonderful based on 109 reviews, which is very strong proof of its long-term quality and reliability. Guests especially love the generous space and the amazing terrace that practically invites evening lounging.

You’ll have a lovely shady terrace and, of course, a refreshing pool where you can spend hot summer afternoons. The approximate starting price is from around €190 per night, which for such a large and beautiful property in this location is a very fair deal. The rooms are bright, airy and furnished with respect for local traditions.

The location below Cortona is absolutely ideal for day trips to nearby Umbria or to the huge Lake Trasimeno, where you can rent a boat. In the morning you can run up the hill into the historic centre for fresh bread, and in the afternoon just laze by the water with a view over the valley.

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14. Il Pozzo degli Angeli

This beautiful holiday home is a great choice for those seeking modern comforts in a historic wrapping. It’s earned an absolutely brilliant rating of 9.7 Exceptional, though so far only from 6 guests, but the photos and reviews speak for themselves. The whole property recently underwent a complete and very sensitive renovation.

Thanks to this recent refresh you’ll find modern bathrooms and a new kitchen, as well as a wonderful pool with a view over the countryside, a blooming garden and a handy grill. With an approximate starting price from around €140 per night, it’s a very tempting offer for couples and small families looking for quality at a reasonable price. Everything here smells of newness and cleanliness.

The area around Cortona is criss-crossed with plenty of hiking and cycling trails, so if you like an active holiday you won’t be bored for a minute. In the evening you can relax your tired muscles in the water and prepare a great dinner from local ingredients under the starry sky.

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15. Villa Serena & Dépendances

This charming property offers very pleasant facilities for a family holiday within reach of famous Cortona. It holds a solid rating of 8.8 Excellent based on 29 reviews, with guests often enthusiastically praising the outdoor spaces and writing that “the pool is very nice” and perfectly maintained. It’s a house that relies on traditional atmosphere and comfort.

The grounds offer plenty of space for lazing and active relaxation, with an approximate starting price from around €205 per night. The garden is full of mature trees that provide merciful shade during the summer heat, and the outdoor seating is ideal for long shared breakfasts. The interiors are classic, with dark wood and typical tiling.

Since the main villa also comes with a smaller annexe, this accommodation is absolutely ideal for multi-generational families who want to spend time together while still having their own privacy. You can head off together to the markets in nearby Arezzo or simply explore Cortona’s winding streets. It offers enormous flexibility for larger groups.

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16. Borgo Syrah

This very elegant apartment complex near Cortona blends history with modern Italian design. It enjoys a very good rating of 8.7 Excellent from 29 happy guests, who especially admire the architecture and tasteful interiors. The accommodation is set right in the heart of a renowned winery, which gives it an unmistakable atmosphere.

Each apartment has its own entrance and offers a lovely view over the carefully maintained garden full of herbs and flowers. The approximate starting price here is from around €245 per night, and you should be aware that the pool and wellness zone are shared with other guests. So it’s not absolute privacy, but on the other hand you gain access to great facilities on the level of a boutique hotel.

During your stay, definitely don’t miss the local wine tasting, as the borgo is one of the renowned producers in the area. You can walk through the vineyards, visit the old cellars and learn plenty of fascinating facts about winemaking. If you like to know more about wine than just “it’s good” and also enjoy a nicely furnished room, this is the place for you.

Villas near Lucca and in the north

The northern part of the region around the beautiful city of Lucca offers a slightly different landscape, where gentle hills slowly give way to dramatic mountains. It’s an ideal base for those who want to combine a countryside stay with trips to the sea on the nearby Versilia coast or to the wild marble quarries of Carrara.

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17. Villa Camilla – WIDE – EXCLUSIVE POOL

This impressive historic villa lies right beside the centre of Lucca and is a genuine one-off. It boasts a great rating of 8.8 Excellent from 46 guests, who especially value the incredible accessibility of the sights combined with countryside calm. It’s a huge house that easily fits even a truly large family or group of friends.

The absolute biggest draw here is the enormous ⭐ exclusive (non-shared) pool, which is yours alone throughout your entire stay. The villa also has a large outdoor grill and a lovely garden, all just an amazing 1.2 kilometres from the famous church of San Michele in Foro. Such an enormous private space within walking distance of the historic city centre is something truly unheard of.

So you can have a leisurely morning swim, breakfast in the garden, and then walk to explore Lucca’s famous walls, which you can cycle around in full on a rented bike. In the afternoon you can relax undisturbed on a lounger with a book in hand.

👉 Booking: Check availability and prices on Booking.com

18. Il Nido

This immensely cosy stone house hides in the green hills north of Lucca and guarantees a perfect escape from civilisation. It’s earned a fantastic rating of 9.6 Exceptional based on 19 reviews, in which guests keep repeating how magical and peaceful this place is. The owners renovated the house with enormous respect for the original architecture.

Instead of a classic pool, waiting for you here is an outdoor plunge pool and spacious seating in the garden, from where you have the whole valley spread out before you. The house is about 22 kilometres from the Leaning Tower of Pisa, so the famous sights are within reach, yet you sleep in the total silence of the mountain wilderness. It’s an incredibly romantic retreat for couples.

The surrounding forests and hills are laced with plenty of trails that practically beg for hikes or mountain biking. In the evening you can head to the nearby village for a simple but hearty country dinner, where you won’t run into a single tourist.

👉 Booking: Check availability and prices on Booking.com

19. Tenuta Fagnani

This sprawling estate offers a great chance to spend your holiday in the hills near Lucca at a very affordable price. It holds a solid rating of 8.0 Very Good from 34 guests and represents the cheapest segment in this northern location. Despite the lower price, you’ll find everything essential here for a relaxed summer holiday full of sunshine.

The estate’s greatest pride is the beautiful outdoor pool and the amazing view straight to the mountains, which will charge you with energy every morning. The rooms are furnished rather simply and traditionally, but the outdoor spaces are very generous and perfectly maintained. It’s a great choice for families who aren’t after luxury but want to enjoy beautiful nature and water.

From the estate you can easily set off on trips into the nearby Garfagnana mountains, which offer stunning scenery, deep gorges and old stone bridges. After a demanding hike, there’s nothing better than jumping into refreshing water and grilling something delicious in the evening.

Villas in the Maremma and the south

The southern part of the region known as the Maremma is noticeably wilder, sunnier and also more affordable than the famous north. It’s a land of pastures, deep forests and hot thermal springs that has kept its rugged and very authentic face, luring you to explore off the main tourist routes.

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20. Villa Il Turchetto

This gorgeous stone house near the little town of Manciano represents the best of the southern countryside. It’s earned a great rating of 9.4 Wonderful based on 23 reviews, with enthusiastic guests often mentioning that here you’ll find an “amazing pool, incredibly clean” and superbly maintained. It’s a place that instantly grabs you by the heart with its genuine atmosphere.

The villa offers total peace, beautiful views over the wild landscape and plenty of outdoor space for evening dining. A huge advantage is the proximity to the famous thermal springs of Saturnia, where you can head for an evening dip once the temperatures drop a little. The house is very spacious and ideal for a larger family or group of friends who want to spend time together.

The Maremma also offers great access to the sea, so you can take a day trip to the beautiful beaches of the Argentario peninsula and return to your peaceful retreat in the evening. Don’t forget to also explore the ancient little towns carved into the tufa rock, like Pitigliano or Sorano, which are very close by.

And if twenty houses aren’t enough for you, I recommend also checking out Agriturismo Capricorni near Massa Marittima. It has a rating of 9.3 from 150 guests and works as a cheaper alternative — just note that the villas here share a separate pool with other guests.

How to choose based on your type of holiday

I want…	where	why
classic Tuscan hills and photos	Val d’Orcia, Pienza	iconic landscape, close to Montalcino and Montepulciano
wine and tastings	Montepulciano, Chianti	Vino Nobile and Chianti Classico on the doorstep
a family with small children	Pienza (fenced pool), Cortona	shallower and safer facilities
peace and lower prices	Maremma, around Grosseto	cheaper than the north, close to sea and thermal baths
a mix of town and countryside	Lucca, Cortona	a short hop to the centre, but you sleep in the greenery
luxury without compromise	San Gimignano	Papavero Rosso and the like

When to go and when to book

If swimming is your number one priority, you’ll need to plan very carefully. The local pool season runs roughly from June to September, and in May and October the water tends to be very cold and owners often don’t even open the pool. So always check in advance whether it will actually be filled during your stay.

With your budget in mind, definitely be prepared that the highest prices reign in July, August and especially around the Ferragosto holiday (15 August), when even Italians themselves flock to the region. During this period you’ll not only pay the most, but you’ll also have to reckon with enormous heat and ever-present crowds on the roads and in restaurants.

The best value for money, on the other hand, comes in June and September, when the pools work reliably, prices are noticeably lower, and the weather is pleasantly summery without the exhausting extremes. Whichever month you choose, the loveliest villas vanish incredibly fast, so I recommend booking at least six months ahead so you have plenty to choose from and can keep an eye on the stricter cancellation terms too.

What to ask before booking

Before you finally enter your payment card details, I recommend sending the owner a short message. This little numbered checklist of 8 questions could save you from a very unpleasant surprise on arrival.

1. Is the pool really private just for us, or is it shared with other apartments? 2. From which date to which date is the pool filled and fully operational? 3. Is working air conditioning available in all bedrooms, or only in some parts of the house? 4. Exactly how much is the final cleaning fee and how large a security deposit is held on site? 5. How long is the stretch of unpaved road (strade bianche) to the villa, and can an ordinary car handle it without trouble? 6. Are all bed linens, bath towels and special pool towels included in the base price? 7. Is the pool fully fenced with a gate (if you’re travelling with very small children)? 8. What is the set minimum stay, and does the rule apply that you arrive exclusively on Saturday?

What you’ll cook in the villa

Renting a house with a fully equipped kitchen practically invites you to cook for yourself on at least some days. Stop by the local market. Pecorino from Pienza, olive oil pressed a few kilometres away, and tomatoes still warm in your hands from the evening sun. You don’t need more than that. You’ll see that cooking with great ingredients is incredibly easy and fun.

Among the simplest meat-free dishes, I definitely recommend trying the traditional pappa al pomodoro or the refreshing bread salad panzanella, which really anyone can put together. Also great are the typical thick pici pasta with a simple sauce of garlic and tomatoes — and don’t forget to open a bottle of local wine alongside, and end the evening with hard almond biscuits cantucci dipped in sweet Vin Santo.

If you come across the huge bistecca alla fiorentina, wild boar (cinghiale) or the ever-present cured meats and salumi in restaurants or on the butcher’s board, know that these are the famous local meat specialities. This region is very renowned for them, but genuine rural home cooking always relied more on vegetables, bread and pulses, with which you can work wonders in the kitchen.

Where to go next

• Tuscany: 30 most beautiful places and a 7-day itinerary
• Agriturismo in Tuscany: 20 tips, prices and how to choose
• Weather in Tuscany: temperatures month by month and when to go
• Tuscany by car: a 7-day itinerary
• Siena and San Gimignano: 8 tips on what to see
• Lucca: 22 tips on what to see and why to cycle the walls
• Wellness hotels in Tuscany: 12 thermal baths
• Where to go on holiday in Italy: 20 best places

Frequently asked questions

Before you make your final decision and confirm your booking, you might still have a few practical things on your mind. Here are the answers to the most common questions I get about accommodation in Italy.

👉 Booking: Check availability and prices on Booking.com