Lucca, Italy: 22 Things to See and Why You Should Cycle the Walls

Lucca is the largest town in Tuscany, yet most tourists on their way to the Leaning Tower in Pisa just breeze straight through without even stopping. And trust me, they are making a huge mistake. While neighbouring Pisa is often just a quick stop for one iconic photo, Lucca in Italy is a town where life is wonderful, and it breathes an amazing calm without the endless crowds of camera-wielding visitors.

When Lukáš and I were cycling through Tuscany in August 2018 as part of our electric-bike trip around Europe, Lucca won us over the moment we arrived. Its huge advantage is a completely preserved Renaissance ring of walls, which you can ride around on a bike beneath the crowns of towering plane trees. And when you already have your bikes with you, it is simply an ideal town for a stop.

So what awaits you in Lucca? I’ll tell you where to buy tickets, how to avoid the queues for the towers, and I’ll throw in a few food tips that are not worth skipping.

TL;DR

  • Cycling the walls: Lucca has a 4.2 km preserved ring of walls that you ride around by bike. Renting one costs around €11 and it’s the best activity in town.
  • Towers with trees and legends: Don’t miss Torre Guinigi with its seven oaks on the roof, or the taller Torre delle Ore, where there are far fewer tourists.
  • A combined ticket saves money: For the San Martino cathedral (home to the famous tomb of Ilaria del Carretto), buy the €10 ticket, which also covers the bell tower and the museum.
  • Piazza dell’Anfiteatro: A unique oval square built on the foundations of a Roman amphitheatre, ideal for an afternoon coffee.
  • Watch out for the festivals: At the end of October the giant Lucca Comics & Games festival takes place, when the town bursts at the seams. In summer 2026, on the other hand, you can head to the lake for the Puccini Festival.
  • Foodie tips: Try the sweet buccellato bread with anise and raisins, or the vegan chickpea flatbread cecina, sold here as street food.

When to visit Lucca — the weather in Lucca, Italy

The very best time to visit is the spring months from April to June, and then September and October in autumn. Temperatures during this period sit at a very pleasant 20 to 25 degrees, so wandering around the town is a joy. The main advantage is that the crowds are just right — you won’t be squeezed into narrow alleys or have to wait in long queues outside the sights. On top of that, the Tuscan countryside is beautifully fresh and green in spring.

If you can only travel during the summer holidays in July and August, be aware that Tuscany can get seriously hot. Lucca’s advantage, though, is that huge trees grow on the walls and provide plenty of merciful shade. Thanks to them, it’s far more bearable here than on the endless sun-baked squares of Florence. In summer the famous Puccini Festival also takes place by a nearby lake, which is a huge draw for lovers of classical music and well worth a little sweat.

A very particular time is the end of October, when the giant Lucca Comics & Games festival takes place. If you’re coming to town for history and romantic calm, give this date a very wide berth. During these days the centre is absolutely packed to bursting and accommodation prices soar to astronomical heights. In winter, by contrast, there’s a wonderful calm here and magical morning mists. For a winter visit you just need to check the opening hours in advance, because some private palaces and gardens tend to be closed off-season.

Where to stay in Lucca

💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, which tends to have the best cancellation terms. Tickets, tours and activities are then worth comparing and buying through GetYourGuide.

The historic centre is carefully protected by the walls, and there’s a so-called ZTL (limited traffic zone), which you’re not allowed to drive into by car without a special permit. So if you’re travelling by car, it’s absolutely crucial to choose a hotel with its own parking, or to stay just outside the walls and walk into the centre. Fines from the camera system unerringly find their way to your home address abroad. We always use Booking to search for accommodation, where you can easily filter hotels with their own car park.

For lovers of luxury and beautiful design, I can recommend Albergo alla Corte degli Angeli, a gorgeous boutique hotel right in the heart of town. The rooms are beautifully decorated, some even with their own hot tub, and best of all they offer guests parking. Another great choice inside the walls is Hotel Palazzo Alexander, housed in a carefully restored historic building from the 12th century. Guests often rate it in reviews as absolutely the most luxurious accommodation for the price. You could also try the popular Hotel Ilaria, where after a full day of walking you’ll be delighted by the lovely terrace with a hot tub and the incredibly welcoming staff.

If you’re after something highly practical because you’re arriving by your own car and mostly want peace and quiet, take a look at Hotel San Marco. It sits just a short distance outside the walls, has its own pool for a summer refresh and hassle-free parking. Thanks to that, you’ll completely avoid the stress of driving into the narrow alleys of the old town. For families or travellers with a larger vehicle, the spacious Best Western Grand Hotel Guinigi is also a great fit, where even really big cars can park without any problem.

22 things to see and do in Lucca

And now for the best part. This Tuscan gem hides more than you’d expect, so I’ve picked out tips ranging from the very best-known spots to corners most tourists miss. I’ll also throw in practical advice on how to save on entrance fees or where to hide from the biggest crowds.

1. The walls of Lucca (Mura di Lucca)

This is an absolute one-off that makes the town what it is. The Renaissance fortifications were built between 1504 and 1648, and it’s incredible that they’ve survived in perfectly intact condition around their entire perimeter, exactly 4.22 kilometres long. The walls were never taken militarily, and the only attack they had to repel was, paradoxically, a huge flood of the River Serchio in 1812. Locals hastily sealed them off and successfully saved the town from the rising water.

Today this massive space with eleven bastions serves as an enormous park lined with plane trees, oaks and chestnuts. A huge advantage is that the whole area is accessible 24 hours a day and completely free. When we were riding here on our electric bikes, we were fascinated by how wide the top of the walls is. In places it reaches up to thirty metres across, so pedestrians, dog walkers and cyclists can all pass one another in complete peace.

If you want to take away the best photos, I recommend coming here early in the morning. The eastern and northern sections of the walls have the loveliest light in the morning sun, and they open up gorgeous views towards the silhouette of the Apuan Alps. By the afternoon it tends to get quite busy, because half the local residents come here to exercise after work.

2. Rent a bike and circle the town

If you come to Lucca, renting a bike is simply an absolute must, even if you only spend half a day here. The whole loop is exactly 4.2 kilometres, and at a leisurely pace you’ll ride around it in roughly thirty to forty-five minutes. With photos, coffee stops and soaking up the views, though, set aside a good couple of hours. It’s a wonderful way to relax, and thanks to the dense tree canopies you can ride even in the summer heat, because you’re constantly in the shade.

You’ll find rental shops around town very easily, and the best-known ones are right by the Porta San Donato and Porta Santa Maria gates. You can rely on established outfits such as Cicli Bizzarri or Poli Antonio Biciclette. Prices start at a friendly €11 (around 275 CZK) for a full day’s rental of a classic city bike.

Through platforms like GetYourGuide you can also book shorter one- or three-hour options if you happen to be in a hurry. Most rental shops offer a huge range of equipment, so it’s no problem to get a modern e-bike or a sturdy trekking bike either. That’ll come in handy especially if you’re planning to ride out beyond the gates towards the historic villas in the countryside.

3. The ideal family activity with kids

You often ask me for tips on travelling with small children, and Lucca is an absolutely brilliant destination in this respect. Riding along the wide walls is completely flat, there are no cars whatsoever, and the path is nice and open. So you don’t have to worry about your little ones running under the wheels of passing scooters, which is a common source of stress in other Italian towns.

The local rental shops routinely have safe child seats, small bike trailers and children’s bikes of every imaginable size available. It’s probably the best family activity in all of Tuscany, because the kids get to burn off energy in the fresh air while you calmly take in the historic sights from a bird’s-eye view.

Around the walls you’ll also find plenty of grassy areas where you can have an improvised picnic or let the kids run free for a while. Now and then you’ll come across small playgrounds tucked away in the shade of the trees. And if you promise the little ones a big scoop of proper Italian gelato on the nearby main street as a reward, they’ll ride the whole loop around town with you without a single complaint.

4. Torre Guinigi with oaks on the roof

This forty-five-metre brick tower is an absolutely unmistakable symbol of the town, because seven mighty holm oaks grow right at its very top. This unique hanging garden dates all the way back to the fourteenth century, and you probably won’t see anything like it anywhere else in the world. The trees, planted in deep troughs of soil, have bravely withstood wind and summer heat for hundreds of years.

Be prepared, though, that there’s no lift to the top and you’ll have to climb 233 wooden steps on your own two feet. But the view over the town’s red roofs through the green crowns of the oaks is absolutely worth the effort. Entrance in 2026 is €8 (approx. 200 CZK) for adults and €4 for children under fourteen.

This tower is by far the most-visited attraction in Lucca, so in high season expect queues — it’s best to arrive right at opening time in the morning or wait until late afternoon. Online ticket sales do exist, but travellers complain a lot about the website, so brace yourself and count on buying your ticket on the spot.

5. Torre delle Ore and the legend of Lucida

If you don’t like being squeezed into crowds, or simply want to save precious time, the Clock Tower from 1390 is often a much better choice than the more famous Guinigi. Few people know that it’s actually the tallest tower in the whole town. About two hundred steps await you at the top, and there tend to be far fewer tourists here than at the tower with the trees, something many travellers gratefully highlight in their reviews.

This place is also linked to a chilling local legend about the beautiful noblewoman Lucida Mansi. She is said to have sold her soul to the devil himself in exchange for thirty years of perfect youth and beauty. As her time drew near and the deadline was about to expire, she ran in a panic up the tower to stop the hands of the clock. Sadly she didn’t make it in time, and according to the legend the devil carried her off with him to hell.

If you want to see both historic towers and compare the views, be sure to buy the good-value combined ticket for €9 (225 CZK) right at the box office. It’s definitely worth it, because the difference compared with a single tower is just one euro. You can then invest the money you save with a clear conscience in an excellent Italian espresso on one of the nearby little squares.

6. The oval Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

This iconic square will surprise you at first glance with its perfect oval shape, which precisely traces the outline of a Roman amphitheatre from the second century. During the dark Middle Ages, local residents began building their houses directly into its mighty stone arches. So from the original gladiatorial arena, all that remains to this day is this stunning and unusually shaped open space.

Today the square is enclosed on all sides by tall, colourful houses with green shutters, and you can only get inside through four fairly narrow passageways. With more than thirty-three thousand reviews on Google, it’s easily the most-visited and most-photographed spot in all of Lucca. You’ll find dozens of small tables under parasols here, practically inviting you to sit down.

Given the enormous popularity of the spot, though, expect the restaurants right on the square to have somewhat inflated tourist prices. That’s why I’d advise you to just enjoy an afternoon coffee or a refreshing Aperol Spritz here in peace and soak up the unique atmosphere. For a big lunch or a romantic dinner, it’s worth heading a few streets further away, where you’ll get incomparably better and more authentic Italian quality for your money.

7. Duomo di San Martino and the famous crucifix

The town’s stunning cathedral will grab your attention at first sight with its asymmetrical Romanesque facade. It consists of three tiers of richly decorated arcades, where every single column is completely different. You might notice that its right side is oddly narrower, because the builders simply had to give way to the already-standing mighty bell tower. Inside you’ll find an absolute treasure in the form of an ancient wooden crucifix named the Volto Santo.

According to old church tradition, the face of Christ on this cross was carved by Nicodemus himself, and historians consider it one of the oldest surviving crucifixes in the whole of the West. In the Middle Ages it was such an important relic that crowds of pilgrims flocked to it, and even English kings came to swear solemn oaths on its name. The cathedral itself is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and on Sundays from noon.

Entry to the cathedral and the tomb alone costs €5 (125 CZK), but I warmly recommend buying the big combined ticket right away. It works out at €10 (250 CZK) and gets you not only into the cathedral but also up the adjacent viewing bell tower, into an interesting museum, and into the neighbouring church of San Giovanni with its archaeological zone. Children and students under 25 pay a reduced €8.

8. The beautiful tomb of Ilaria del Carretto

This is exactly the kind of thing people from all over the world regularly travel to Lucca for, if they love history and art. For Lukáš and me, who are fond of Renaissance sculpture, this was something we simply didn’t want to miss. This stunning tomb of a young noblewoman was created between 1406 and 1408 by the famous master Jacopo della Quercia, and it’s one of the most beautiful works of the entire Italian Renaissance.

The young woman lies here carved from marble with such delicacy that it looks as though she’s simply sleeping peacefully, and at her feet rests a little dog as a deeply touching symbol of marital fidelity. The details of her dress and the pillow beneath her head are worked to absolute perfection. You’ll find the piece in the cathedral’s sacristy, and access to it is already included in that basic five-euro ticket to the church.

Ideally, though, come here right at opening time in the morning. At that hour you’ll avoid the organised groups with guides, and inside you’ll find beautiful silence and complete calm to study the details. Reviewers on Google often mention that the morning light falling through the sacristy windows lends the white marble an almost magical, warm glow.

9. San Michele in Foro and the angel on the roof

This gorgeous, photogenic church stands right on a large square that in ancient times used to be a busy Roman forum. Its white marble facade is absolutely stunning, with four tiers of richly decorated arcades, and right at the top reigns a huge statue of the Archangel Michael with majestic metal wings that are said to move slightly in the wind.

A great curiosity is that if you stand a little to the side and look at it in profile, you’ll discover that the front facade is actually much taller than the body of the church behind it. The original plans envisaged the whole church being significantly rebuilt and raised over time to match its grand frontage. Unfortunately the town ran out of money during construction, so all that remained of the grandiose project is this dazzling but partly false “backdrop”.

Despite that, it’s one of the most-photographed places in all of Lucca. Inside the church itself the atmosphere is rather austere, but you’ll find a rare painting by Filippino Lippi and a stunning majolica relief by the famous Andrea della Robbia. Around the church there are also plenty of benches where you can rest and endlessly examine the details of the columns, no two of which are quite the same.

10. Basilica di San Frediano and the golden mosaic

Just a short walk from the northern section of the walls you’ll find another hugely important basilica, which differs from all the others in town by one very striking feature. It’s the only one in all of Lucca that has, on its facade, an enormous golden mosaic depicting the Ascension of Christ, dating from the thirteenth century. When the setting sun hits it, the whole facade blazes beautifully with colour.

Inside, right by the entrance, a massive and richly decorated Romanesque baptismal font from the 12th century awaits you. But far more attention is drawn to the glass casket in which lies the naturally mummified body of Saint Zita, the beloved patron saint of all servants. She died in the 13th century, and her intact remains still fascinate the faithful and ordinary tourists alike to this day.

Overall it’s a very impressive and surprisingly quiet place with an amazing atmosphere. Unlike the central cathedrals, not as many organised tours come here, so you can rest pleasantly in the cool dimness. And entry is free, which in Italy these days is certainly not a given 😊

11. The birthplace of Giacomo Puccini

Lucca is world-famous as a city of music, and above all thanks to one single person. It was here, on 22 December 1858, that one of the most famous and best-loved opera composers of all time, Giacomo Puccini, was born. His birthplace apartment on the second floor of an unassuming historic building right in the centre of town today serves as a beautifully restored museum (Casa Natale).

Inside you’ll see plenty of authentic family photographs, handwritten letters and rare autographs of his early compositions. But the greatest jewel of the tour is the original Steinway & Sons piano, on which Puccini provably composed his famous opera Turandot. For fans of classical music, this place has an almost sacred atmosphere.

Entry to the museum currently costs €7 (approx. 175 CZK), with students or seniors over 65 paying just €5 and children under six going in completely free. If you love his arias, I recommend keeping an eye on the programme of the local churches, especially San Giovanni. For practically the whole year, evening chamber concerts of Puccini’s most famous melodies take place there, and they’re absolutely breathtaking.

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12. The Puccini Festival in Torre del Lago (2026)

If you’re heading to sun-drenched Tuscany in the middle of summer, it would be a huge shame to miss the musical event of the year. About 25 kilometres from Lucca lies the picturesque Lake Massaciuccoli, where Puccini spent a large part of his life and where he’s also buried. And it’s right there, in the huge open-air Gran Teatro all’Aperto under the open sky, that a world-famous opera festival takes place.

In 2026 it’s the 72nd edition, running on set dates from 11 July to 5 September. Imagine sitting by the calm surface of the water, breathing the balmy summer air, with the most beautiful Italian arias sung by top performers ringing out around you. Travellers describe it as an experience you’ll never forget for the rest of your life, even if you’re not a die-hard opera fanatic.

Tickets can be bought online through the official website puccinifestival.it or through the TicketOne network. Prices range roughly from a reasonable €19.50 for standing to a luxurious €195 for the best VIP seats near the stage. Tickets vanish fairly quickly, so if you want a specific performance like Madame Butterfly or Tosca, secure them at least a few months in advance.

13. Warning: Lucca Comics & Games 2026

This is an absolutely essential practical piece of information that can either make your dream come true or, on the contrary, completely ruin a romantic holiday. Every year Lucca hosts one of the biggest festivals of comics, games and pop culture in all of Europe, which in 2026 falls on the dates from Wednesday 28 October to Sunday 1 November. On top of that, the event takes place right in the streets of the historic centre.

Perhaps hundreds of thousands of people descend on the town, over 700 exhibitors set up shop, and the streets are full of enthusiasts in elaborate cosplay costumes from morning till night. If you’re coming to Lucca for calm sightseeing and romance, definitely don’t come during this period. The town is practically impassable, accommodation costs multiples of the usual prices, and the cafés are bursting at the seams.

If, on the other hand, you love the festival and want to experience the incredible atmosphere, you’ll need to secure your accommodation and tickets (which cost around €20 to €22) as much as three quarters of a year in advance. Good-value early bird ticket sales usually take place in summer. Many visitors then opt for a compromise and prefer to sleep in nearby Pisa or Viareggio, commuting to the festival on packed trains.

14. The Baroque Palazzo Pfanner

As you stroll along the northern part of the walls, you’ll surely be captivated by the stunning view down into a beautiful, symmetrical garden. It belongs to the grand Baroque Palazzo Pfanner and is full of ornate stone statues, carefully trimmed shrubs, fragrant citrus trees in terracotta pots and little pools with fountains. It works as a perfect oasis of quiet in the middle of town.

The garden and the adjacent palace rooms are open seasonally, usually from 15 March to 31 December, from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. The rough entrance fee ranges between €8 and €10 (approx. 200 to 250 CZK). It’s a popular spot for weddings and fashion shoots, because the combination of greenery and Baroque architecture is simply irresistible to photograph.

The opening hours often change slightly over the course of the year, though, and occasionally the area is closed precisely because of private events. That’s why I strongly recommend checking the current status on their official website before you set off to the gate, so you’re not disappointed by closed doors. You’ll see a large part of it from the walls, but strolling right among the fountains is a better experience after all.

15. Orto Botanico by the walls

Another gorgeous green oasis, this time tucked away in the south-eastern corner of town right by the walls, is the municipal botanical garden founded at the start of the 19th century. It’s a perfect place for a moment of absolute calm and shade, if you’ve simply had enough of the sun-baked cobbled streets and the constant weaving between other tourists in the centre.

For a symbolic entrance fee (roughly €4 to €6), inside you’ll find a carefully tended collection of rare plants, a small pond full of water lilies and historic greenhouses that are worth seeing.

With children you can sit for a while on a bench, look at the interesting labels and just soak up the peaceful atmosphere of a sleepy Italian afternoon. It’s not a huge area to fill half a day, but as an hour-long break before another round of sightseeing, or before an evening visit to a restaurant, this garden works absolutely fantastically.

16. Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi

If you want to see with your own eyes how the very highest aristocracy lived in Lucca, definitely head to this Baroque palace. From the outside it may not look particularly striking and you could easily walk past it in the alley, but inside fantastically preserved original frescoes, period furniture and enormous Flemish tapestries await you, dazzling to the eye.

What travellers in Google reviews single out most of all is the incredibly opulent newlyweds’ bedroom with its carved alcove. It’s so richly decorated with gold and precious fabrics that it looks as though the lord and lady left only yesterday morning. Despite its museum function, the palace has retained the atmosphere of a real residence.

The tour isn’t extremely long, and there also tend not to be many visitors here. That makes it a great choice for a rainy morning or, conversely, for escaping the worst of the midday sun, when you can cool off nicely in the palace’s chilly halls. The entrance fee is very reasonable and, honestly, this is something you needn’t feel at all bad about paying for.

17. Villa Reale di Marlia and the green theatre

This place has a slightly dark history, with Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi behind it — Napoleon’s sister, who for a time ruled Lucca fairly uncompromisingly. This huge and beautiful complex doesn’t lie right in town, but about 8 kilometres to the north. If you have a car, though, or rent a sturdy trekking bike for the day, definitely head here.

Around the grand villa stretches a fantastic English park covering a barely believable 16 hectares. The area recently underwent a major and costly restoration, so after a long time it’s finally showing itself in full glory with ponds, waterfalls and flower beds. You can conveniently buy tickets online through sellers such as Musement.

The most interesting and unique thing in the whole sprawling garden is the oldest green theatre in Europe. Its auditorium, wings and even the stage itself are artfully clipped and shaped directly from huge bushes and hedges. Standing in the middle of this natural amphitheatre, where nobility once entertained themselves, is a truly unusual feeling.

18. Shopping on Via Fillungo

Via Fillungo is the main and liveliest artery of the whole historic centre, winding elegantly from north to south. You won’t find any impersonal, ugly shopping centres here, but plenty of beautiful local boutiques, family-run leather-goods shops and luxury jewellers set into the ground floors of medieval houses.

The wonderful thing about it is that, out of respect for tradition, the shops often keep their original wooden or brass signboards and shop windows from the early twentieth century. And that’s true even when they sell modern designer clothing or cosmetics inside. It gives the street incredible flair and elegance, the kind that perhaps only Italians know how to create.

It’s the ideal street for a slow evening stroll, when the sun is setting and the town starts waking up to its evening life. Grab a scoop of proper artisan gelato, stop by the windows of old antiquarian bookshops and just watch the elegantly dressed local residents greeting their neighbours.

19. What to taste from Lucca’s cuisine

The local Tuscan gastronomy is fantastic and has a surprising number of wonderful vegetarian gems that you’ll fall in love with. We swear by cecina, a wafer-thin flatbread — slightly crisp at the edges and soft inside — made from chickpea flour, olive oil and water. It’s baked in a hot oven and works as the perfect vegan street food, straight into your hand as you walk around town.

For breakfast, be sure to try buccellato, the absolutely iconic traditional sweet bread with anise and lots of raisins. It’s sold in every bakery, and it tastes best when, like the locals, you dip it straight into a hot morning cappuccino.

For lunch I warmly recommend zuppa di farro (a thick, hearty spelt soup with beans), just always ask the staff to be safe whether they cooked it without bits of pancetta. Garmugia is also excellent — a light spring vegetable soup full of fresh artichokes, peas and asparagus. For a sweet finish, try necci, thin flatbreads made from chestnut flour and traditionally filled with soft fresh ricotta.

20. Traditional meaty tordelli lucchesi

If you eat meat yourself, then you should know that the best-known local speciality for all “carnivores” is the celebrated tordelli lucchesi. These are fairly large, semicircular filled pasta parcels that vaguely resemble classic ravioli, but they have a completely distinctive composition and flavour that local cooks are very proud of.

Into the rich meat filling (usually a mix of beef and pork), according to old secret recipes, a pinch of cinnamon and freshly grated nutmeg is added. This spicing gives the whole dish a very unusual, slightly sweet and interesting flavour profile.

The generously filled pasta is then served on a deep plate, doused in a proper, slow-cooked meat ragù and sprinkled with parmesan. Be prepared that it’s a fairly heavy and very filling dish, so afterwards you’ll probably cancel your afternoon climb up the tower and go and sit in the shade in the park instead.

21. Where to eat well in Lucca

Finding a good restaurant here is honestly a pleasure, because the quality of the ingredients and the cooking is generally very high and there are very few outright tourist traps. Sottosotto, which sits right at the entrance to the oval Anfiteatro square, has an absolutely excellent rating. Despite its premium, touristy location it keeps reasonable mid-range prices, friendly service and excellent food quality.

For meat-free dining I wholeheartedly recommend the restaurant In Pasta, Cibo e Convivio on Corso Garibaldi. It’s fully vegetarian, they make absolutely phenomenal fresh pasta, and guests praise their very friendly prices highly in reviews.

Another of my favourite tips for a quick and light lunch is the vegan spot Soup in Town on the San Giusto square. Stop by after touring the churches — they make fantastic colourful Buddha bowls and hearty legume soups that get you back on your feet in a flash. If you’re after something more authentic, try the old-fashioned Trattoria da Giulio near Porta San Donato, where they still have white tablecloths and low prices.

22. Day trips from Lucca: the Devil’s Bridge and Garfagnana

Lucca is a downright brilliant base for exploring the beautiful, if slightly overlooked, mountain valley of Garfagnana lying to the north. Just about 20 kilometres from town stands Ponte della Maddalena, far better known by its frightening name, the Devil’s Bridge. It’s a medieval stone structure over the wild River Serchio, with such an unnaturally high and thin main arch that it looks as though it defies gravity.

It was an important crossing on the famous pilgrim route Via Francigena, and according to local legend it had to be built by the devil himself. In exchange he demanded the soul of the first to cross it, but the clever locals outwitted him back then by sending an ordinary dog across the finished bridge.

By the regular VaiBus bus you can also easily get from Lucca to the charming Renaissance town of Barga, a journey that takes a little over an hour. You’ll walk through Barga in half an hour, but its remote atmosphere and views into the valley will make you want to stay the whole afternoon. You can also stop in Bagni di Lucca, fifty minutes away, which in the 19th century was a famous, glittering thermal spa and the summer residence of the Napoleonic court. Today it feels beautifully sleepy and a little forgotten.

Where to go next from Lucca and how to get around

Getting here is incredibly easy and quick. If you fly into Pisa airport with a low-cost carrier such as Ryanair or easyJet, just hop on the automatic PisaMover shuttle to the main Pisa Centrale station. From there, direct regional trains run to Lucca, covering the whole journey in 22 to 27 minutes, with a ticket costing only around €4 (100 CZK). It’s by far the cheapest and fastest way to travel. From Florence you’ll get here by train in roughly an hour and a half. A big advantage is that Lucca’s station lies right next to the walls, so you’re in the historic centre on foot within a few minutes.

If you’re planning to explore Italy more widely at your own pace, Lucca combines beautifully with other places. You’ll find inspiration for putting together a varied route in our 7-day Tuscany itinerary. For history and art you can head to the famous Florence or to medieval pearls such as Siena and San Gimignano.

If your feet are aching after all that walking around town, take a look at our tips for superb wellness hotels in Tuscany. And of course you mustn’t miss the nearby iconic Pisa — for practical advice, check out our guide on how to buy tickets for the Leaning Tower. And if you’re still unsure where exactly to head with the family, have a read of our article on where to go on holiday in Italy or our extensive guide to Italian cuisine.

Frequently asked questions

Still hesitating, or is some little detail bugging you? I’ve put together answers to the very most common questions you send me about Lucca, so you can enjoy your Italian trip without a single hitch. 😉

Is Lucca worth a full day, or is a short stop enough?

Definitely set aside at least a full day, and if you can, stay for at least one night. The charm of this town truly reveals itself in the evening, when the day-trippers leave and the alleyways pleasantly empty out. You can then enjoy a romantic dinner in total peace without waiting for a table and strolls along the illuminated, quiet walls.

Should I go up Torre Guinigi or Torre delle Ore?

If you only have time and energy for one of them, buy the €9 combined ticket and go up the taller Torre delle Ore. It has a mysterious legend attached to it about Lucida, and most importantly, you’ll completely avoid the biggest tourist crowds, who all automatically head to the more famous Guinigi just for a photo of the trees on the roof.

Can you cycle around the walls with small children?

Yes, absolutely no problem. In fact, it’s one of the best, safest, and most fun family activities in all of Tuscany. The top of the walls is completely flat, wide, with absolutely no cars, and the local rental shops commonly have child seats and small trailers available.

Where should I park my car?

Definitely park exclusively outside the walls, for example at the large Parcheggio Carducci or Parcheggio Palatucci car parks. The entire historic centre inside the walls is a ZTL zone (limited traffic zone), and if you drive in without special permission, a hefty fine from the camera system will inevitably reach you back home.

How many days should I set aside for Lucca and the surrounding area?

For the historic town itself and a bike ride, one full day will be more than enough. However, if you’d like to take trips into the mountains in the Garfagnana area, visit the Devil’s Bridge, Villa Marlia, or the old thermal baths, I recommend spending a relaxed two to three days here.

Is Lucca nicer and better to visit than Pisa?

They’re completely different cities. Pisa is great for a quick “photo stop” at the famous tower, but the rest of the city isn’t all that impressive and lacks intimacy. Lucca, on the other hand, is much more pleasant for a longer stay, has a calmer vibe, amazing non-touristy restaurants, and overall a nicer, more local atmosphere for living.

Do I need to buy tickets to monuments well in advance?

For the local cathedral and the viewpoint towers, in most cases it’s not necessary—tickets can be bought on-site at the ticket office. However, it’s absolutely critical to buy tickets months in advance if you’re heading to the autumn Lucca Comics & Games festival or the summer Puccini Festival by the lake, as those are hopelessly sold out.

What’s the fastest way to get from Pisa airport to Lucca?

It’s very easy and cheap. From the airport terminal, take the automated PisaMover train, which takes you to Pisa Centrale main station in five minutes. There you transfer directly to a regional train, which gets you to Lucca in just under half an hour, and the ticket costs around €4.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Island of Elba, Italy: 20 Tips on What to See, the Best Beaches and the Ferry

For most of us, the island of Elba in Italy lives in our memory from history class as that little island where Napoleon ended up. In reality, though, it’s a full-blown holiday destination that puts even far more famous resorts to shame — and yet it still feels wonderfully uncrowded and off the mass-tourism radar.

Here you’ll find an incredible combination of Caribbean-clear beaches and tall mountains that rise to over a thousand metres. And the best part is that you can comfortably drive around the whole island in a single day, which makes it an absolutely ideal spot for an active holiday full of discovery.

If you’re looking for a corner of Italy where time seems to stand still yet everything breathes calm, Elba will win you over in no time. I’ve put together a detailed guide so you know exactly how to get here, where to find the prettiest coves and what to watch out for.

TL;DR

  • Getting there by ferry: Ferries run from the port of Piombino to Portoferraio, the crossing takes 40 to 60 minutes and foot-passenger tickets start at around €15.
  • The wind rule: On Elba you pick your beach according to which way the wind is blowing (a southerly scirocco means dashing to the northern beaches, and vice versa).
  • The Monte Capanne cable car: Open yellow cages for two standing passengers take you up the highest mountain (definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights).
  • Napoleon’s residences: A phone reservation at least a day ahead is absolutely essential for both villas, otherwise you almost certainly won’t get in.
  • The most beautiful beaches: Sansone and Capo Bianco offer white cliffs and perfect conditions for snorkelling.
  • Getting around the island: A car is the best option, but be ready for very narrow, winding little roads and limited parking at the most popular beaches.

When to visit Elba

The best time to visit the island is clearly late May, June and the first half of September. In these months the sea is already (or still) beautifully warm for swimming, but the island isn’t bursting at the seams under the onslaught of Italian mainland tourists. A key advantage of this period is that it’s far easier to park at the popular beaches, which saves you a lot of stress and early alarms. Accommodation prices also stay within reason and you can get a table at restaurants without booking days in advance. On top of that, in June and September the ferries run at full capacity and you can choose from roughly 151 crossings a week.

If you head over in August, brace yourself for the absolute peak of the season. For Italians, August is the month of nationwide holidays and Elba is a huge favourite. During this time accommodation prices hit their maximum, there are queues for the ferries and the beaches are truly packed. In August you need to sort out ferry tickets and hotels even six months ahead, otherwise you risk being left with only the most expensive or worst-rated options. The August heat also isn’t exactly ideal for hiking.

Spring and autumn months such as April, May and October are absolutely ideal for hiking, cycling and exploring the sights. The sun warms pleasantly and the cable car to the highest mountain usually runs by then (though with shorter opening hours until five in the afternoon), but the sea is really only for the hardiest swimmers. In winter the island essentially settles into hibernation. Most hotels, restaurants and attractions close and the Monte Capanne cable car doesn’t run because of its regular maintenance. The ferries do operate year-round, but in the winter months they run on a very limited schedule of roughly 38 crossings a week, just to ensure basic supplies for the local residents.

Where to stay on Elba

💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. For tickets, tours and activities it’s worth comparing and booking through GetYourGuide.

Where you sleep will hugely shape the kind of Elba you experience, and the choice here isn’t at all straightforward. The areas of Biodola and Procchio on the northern coast are known for their more upmarket hotels and gorgeous sandy beaches with a gentle slope into the sea. The area around the capital, Portoferraio, meanwhile, is great as a strategic base for day trips, since most ferries arrive here and you’re just a short walk from the historic sights. Portoferraio is also the easiest starting point for reaching the famous white-pebble beaches.

If you love evening life and romantic strolls through historic lanes, you’ll surely be charmed by Capoliveri or Porto Azzurro in the southeast. Capoliveri sits high on a hill and comes alive after sunset with markets and restaurant terraces. For families with children, Marina di Campo is often recommended thanks to its great facilities, plenty of restaurants and a long sandy beach. I’d recommend you book your accommodation well in advance, because the best places sell out at lightning speed before summer.

  • Hotel Hermitage: A five-star gem right on the beach in the Biodola area. Three pools, three bars and four restaurants — and reviewers agree the service here really isn’t just on paper. On top of that, you get gorgeous sea views straight from your room.
  • Hotel Montecristo: A very popular hotel in the Campo nell’Elba area with a lovely pool and generous breakfasts included. Travellers particularly praise the exceptionally welcoming staff and the perfect location just a short walk from the beach.
  • Hotel del Golfo: A fantastic choice in the Procchio area. The hotel boasts two restaurants, a lovely pool and, above all, its own private beach — a huge advantage in the peak summer season.
  • Hotel Villa Ottone: A romantic 19th-century villa in the Ottone locality near Portoferraio. It has its own private beach and a great wellness centre. One reviewer even mentioned getting a 20% discount on ferry tickets by booking directly through the hotel.
  • Tenuta delle Ripalte: A gorgeous, sprawling resort near Capoliveri with three restaurants, its own diving centre and a network of private cycling paths. An active holiday with luxury facilities — this combination simply works here.

Island of Elba, Italy: 20 tips on what to see and do

Elba is the third largest Italian island and, honestly, the more we researched it, the more things kept creeping onto our list. Here are the ones you definitely don’t want to skip.

1. The ferry from Piombino to Portoferraio

The easiest and most common route to the island runs via the port of Piombino on the Tuscan coast. Ferries here are run by three big companies: Moby Lines, Toremar and Blu Navy. Most crossings head for the main island port of Portoferraio, but some also go to smaller ports such as Rio Marina or Cavo. In peak summer season there are over 40 crossings a day, which adds up to an incredible 151 sailings a week.

The crossing itself takes only 40 minutes to an hour, so before you’ve even had a chance to settle in on deck and sip your Italian espresso, you’ll already be docking. The fastest crossings are usually with Toremar at around forty minutes. A one-way foot-passenger ticket comes to roughly €19 and, if you’re travelling with a car, expect to pay from around €19 per vehicle plus passenger tickets.

The total price varies a lot depending on the specific season, the sailing time and the chosen operator. Tickets typically range from €15 to €32 per person, so I’d recommend comparing offers in advance. The ferries do run year-round, but in the winter months service is reduced to roughly 38 crossings a week.

💡 Tip: If you’re travelling with your own car in the summer months, definitely book your ferry tickets online in advance. You’ll save yourself long, stressful hours of waiting at the port for the first free spot, which can easily take up to half a day. Some hotels also offer discount codes for the ferry when you book your stay directly.

2. A car is a must (and how driving around the island works)

Elba isn’t huge and in theory you can drive around the whole thing in a day, but relying on public transport here isn’t exactly the best idea. A car is clearly the most comfortable option if you want to discover hidden beaches, visit mountain villages and not be tied to timetables. There is a bus network, but in summer it tends to be pretty slow and it simply won’t take you to the most beautiful remote coves.

The island’s roads are very narrow, constantly winding and often lined with steep drops falling straight to the sea. On top of that, local drivers are fairly spirited and don’t hit the brakes too much, so expect your average speed to be very low. If you don’t fancy driving, plenty of travellers opt to rent a scooter, which is a fantastic solution for weaving through traffic. But Elba is very hilly, so rent a scooter with a stronger engine to save yourself the struggle on the climbs.

At the prettiest beaches like Sansone or Capo Bianco there’s usually a huge parking problem in summer. The official car parks are small and fill up fast. It pays to get up early and head to the water really early in the morning, otherwise you’ll circle for hours without luck and end up parking somewhere a kilometre away on the verge.

3. How to choose your beach by the wind

This is an absolutely crucial rule that will genuinely save your holiday. Elba is a relatively small island, so you’ll always find a cove with calm water and crystal-clear sea — you just need to know exactly where to go depending on the current wind. This bit of knowledge is what separates the delighted travellers from those complaining about waves and murky water.

When the southerly wind known as the scirocco starts blowing, the sea on the south of the island turns rough and full of waves. That’s the moment to pack up and head for the northern beaches such as Biodola, Sansone, Sant’Andrea or Spartaia. These are beautifully tucked away in the lee, so the water there will be as calm as a mirror and perfectly transparent. It’s during the scirocco that the northern cliffs are at their most photogenic.

Conversely, as soon as the weather turns and a cooler northerly kicks in, drive over to the southern and western coves. Beaches like Fetovaia, Cavoli or Innamorata will be perfectly sheltered by the surrounding hills. Just check a wind-forecast app over breakfast each morning and you’re guaranteed to swim in the best conditions on the whole island.

4. Monte Capanne and the cable car in yellow cages

At 1,019 metres above sea level, Monte Capanne is the highest point of Elba and of the entire vast Tuscan Archipelago. You can reach the top on foot along hiking trails, but most visitors choose the iconic cable car (cabinovia), which starts in the mountain town of Marciana at an altitude of about 375 metres. And this is where the main surprise comes in — one that guidebooks often don’t mention.

Don’t expect any comfortable enclosed cabins with seats and glass windows. What takes you up to 950 metres are open yellow metal cages that fit exactly two people standing. There’s no glass and no solid walls, just plain metal bars. The ride takes roughly 15 to 20 minutes and offers an absolutely unreal 360-degree view over the wooded hills and the sea, but it’s definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights.

On a clear day you can see all the way to neighbouring French Corsica from the summit. A return ticket for an adult costs roughly around €20 and a one-way ride comes to about €13 (2025 prices). The cable car usually operates from April to October, closing completely in the winter months for regular maintenance. It’s best to check the exact prices and opening hours before your trip on the official website.

5. Villa dei Mulini and the mandatory reservation

The famous French commander Napoleon Bonaparte spent roughly 300 days in exile on Elba (more precisely from 3 May 1814 to 26 February 1815), and he wasn’t a conventional prisoner here but the island’s formal sovereign. During this relatively short time he managed to set up not one but two lavish residences. His main, urban one was Palazzina dei Mulini, which rises right above the harbour in the capital, Portoferraio. His sister Paolina Borghese even visited him here during his stay.

The villa’s gardens offer a gorgeous view over the open sea, and inside you can admire period furniture, beautiful halls and, above all, Napoleon’s personal library, which he had shipped over. By today’s standards the entrance fee is more than symbolic — adults pay just €3, while children under 18 and seniors over 65 enter the grounds completely free.

⚠️ Careful, this is an extremely important piece of information for your visit: a phone reservation the day before on +39 0565 915846 is absolutely essential — without it you’ll only get in with a lot of luck, and we’re really not exaggerating. The tour itself takes roughly 50 minutes, and opening hours vary depending on the day of the week (on Mondays and Thursdays it’s open only in the afternoon from 2:00 pm, other days in the morning).

6. The summer residence Villa di San Martino

Napoleon’s second refuge on the island was Villa di San Martino, which served as his private summer residence. It lies hidden in the green wooded hills just a few kilometres above bustling Portoferraio, and its calm was meant to remind him of the country life he was used to in France. It was his personal oasis, where he spent the hot summer days far from his city duties.

Part of this gorgeous complex is also the striking Galleria Demidoff, added in the 19th century by the Russian prince Anatoly Demidov, a huge admirer of Napoleon. This majestic building in pure neoclassical style is full of historical artefacts and sculptural works, so it’s definitely worth a detailed look and nicely complements the villa’s more modest original rooms.

The exact same strict rules apply to this summer residence as to the urban villa. The entrance fee is again just €3 and a phone reservation the day before is strictly required, otherwise you risk driving up into the hills completely in vain. Opening hours again vary slightly by day of the week (on Wednesdays and Fridays it’s open in the afternoon from 2:00 pm to 6:30 pm, while on Tuesdays, Thursdays and weekends it operates in the morning until 1:30 pm).

7. The Caribbean-like Fetovaia beach

Fetovaia beach regularly tops the rankings as one of the most beautiful coves in all of Italy, and completely deservedly so. You’ll find it on the island’s southwest coast and at first sight it will captivate you with its fine light sand and incredibly turquoise water that deepens only very gradually. The colours of the sea here really recall the Caribbean rather than the classic Mediterranean.

This cove is perfectly sheltered by a long rocky headland densely covered in lush green Mediterranean macchia. Thanks to this natural shield, the sea is completely calm even on days when a stronger wind is blowing on the north of the island. That’s exactly why you should head here whenever your app reports a cool northerly. It’s an absolutely ideal spot for swimmers of all levels, for snorkelling and for families with small children who want to play on the shore.

In peak summer season, though, it gets really tight here, so you’ll have to fight for a spot on the free sand very early in the morning. There is a working sunbed and umbrella rental, and there’s also complete basic infrastructure with toilets, showers and a nice snack bar right by the water.

8. Cavoli beach for fun-lovers

If you’re after a slightly livelier atmosphere on holiday and don’t mind the company of other people, head to Cavoli beach. It sits on the southern coast and, thanks to its strategic location, is well sheltered from the cold northern wind. The water temperature here is said to be exceptionally pleasant from the early spring months right through to late autumn, which makes it a big hit even outside the peak summer season.

This spot on Elba mainly attracts a younger crowd and lovers of beach clubs. You’ll find beautifully fine light sand, bars with a view right by the water and, in the summer months, frequent afternoon beach parties with live music. If you’re looking for total peace with a book in hand, Cavoli probably won’t be your first choice, but for lovers of summer fun it’s a perfect spot.

Although it’s noticeably busier here than in other coves, the sea stays crystal clear and inviting for a swim. On the right side of the cove there’s also the fascinating Grotta Azzurra cave, which you can swim to fairly easily, or rent a pedal boat on the shore and explore it from the deck.

9. Sansone beach and perfect snorkelling

For thousands of enthusiastic travellers (judging by its fantastic 4.7-star rating on Google from over seven thousand reviews), Sansone beach is the absolute jewel of the entire northern coast. It’s a breathtaking cove covered in tiny, brilliant white pebbles that gleam in the sun from afar. You’ll find it a short drive from Portoferraio and it ranks among the island’s most photographed spots.

The beach is strikingly lined on all sides by tall white cliffs that contrast sharply with the deep blue water. It’s precisely thanks to the pebble bottom — with no stirred-up sand — that the sea here is so transparent that you’ll see every pebble even at a depth of several metres. These are absolutely perfect conditions for snorkelling, since whole shoals of colourful fish dart about and the underwater life is very rich.

A photogenic rock rises from the water near the shore, a favourite target for daring jumpers and kayakers. Access to the beach is along a slightly steep, dusty path from the main car park, so definitely bring sturdier shoes — flip-flops aren’t exactly safe here and it gets very slippery. Remember that this beach is the top choice whenever the scirocco is blowing from the south.

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Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to stay on Elba Island
6 accommodations — wellness hotels, resorts and other accommodation options

10. Capo Bianco with its white cliffs

Just a short distance from the capital, Portoferraio, you’ll find Capo Bianco beach, which by island standards is an impressive 290 metres long. Its name (which translates as White Cape) describes exactly what awaits you on arrival. The beach is made up of an interesting mix of brilliant white pebbles and light sand that’s lovely to walk on, even barefoot.

Just like at neighbouring Sansone, imposing white rock formations rise here too, plunging straight into the deep blue and turquoise sea. On a sunny day the combination of these colours is so intense that you’ll feel as if you’re on some exotic tropical holiday. Once again it’s a fantastic spot for anyone who loves diving and observing underwater life, because the white seabed reflects the light beautifully.

💡 Tip: Since this beach faces the northern side of the coast, it’s absolutely ideal to come here when the southerly scirocco is blowing. On such a day the sea will be perfectly calm without a single ripple and underwater visibility will be at its maximum. If you arrive early in the morning, you’ll also avoid the afternoon crowds.

11. The pair of Padulella and Le Ghiaie

The northern coast near Portoferraio hides two more beautiful beaches you shouldn’t miss while exploring the area. Padulella is a smaller pebble beach with perfectly smooth stones, closed in on all sides by tall white rocks. Thanks to them it’s fantastically sheltered from the unpleasant northerly and offers wonderful peace and quiet even on slightly windier days.

Right next to it lies the much larger and better-known Le Ghiaie, a full 400 metres long. It’s a very popular town beach with white pebbles, beside which you’ll find plenty of excellent restaurants, comfortable sunbed rentals and complete tourist facilities. On Google it holds a great 4.5-star rating from almost ten thousand reviews, which speaks to its huge popularity.

Interestingly, the sea in the immediate vicinity of Le Ghiaie beach is a protected biological zone full of fish, so fishing here is strictly forbidden. Locals apparently love telling tourists that the dark spots on the brilliant white pebbles are drops of sweat from the legendary Argonauts, who stopped here with Jason during their long search for the Golden Fleece.

12. Historic Portoferraio and its fortresses

Portoferraio is definitely not just a transit port where you step off the ferry and immediately drive on — it’s also a beautiful historic town with an exceptionally rich past. Its clear landmarks are the huge, mighty fortresses built here in the 16th century by the famous Tuscan Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici to defend against the relentless pirate raids from the sea.

Do make time to explore the well-preserved complexes of Forte Falcone and Forte Stella. From their massive ramparts you get absolutely stunning views over the whole wide bay and the historic centre full of typical colourful houses. Down by the harbour itself you’ll find the iconic octagonal tower Torre della Linguella, which protected the safe entrance to the docks for centuries.

A stroll along the narrow paved lanes from the harbour up towards Napoleon’s villa takes only a moment, but it hits you with that true Italian atmosphere. They’re full of cosy cafés, little souvenir shops and the scent of fresh coffee and fresh pastries. It’s an ideal spot for a relaxed afternoon after a day spent on the beach.

13. Capoliveri and the best views

If you turn into a night owl on holiday and love the buzz of summer evenings, Capoliveri will surely be your favourite stop on all of Elba. This utterly charming little town sits high on a hill in the southeast of the island and reviewers regularly give it the highest ratings (a lovely 4.7 stars) for both atmosphere and service. On top of that, the area around the town is the starting point for mountain-bike trails famous far and wide.

Thanks to its unique elevated position it offers absolutely breathtaking views over the open sea and the surrounding deep coves. During the day you can wander at leisure through narrow stone lanes full of flowers in bloom, sit in cafés and admire the historic architecture. But the real magic? That comes after dark, when Capoliveri transforms into the liveliest place on the whole island. The main square fills with restaurant terraces, little artisan ceramics shops open up and people simply stroll the lanes with a scoop of excellent ice cream in hand, soaking up the warm evenings. Definitely plan at least one dinner trip here.

14. The harbour charm of Porto Azzurro

On the island’s eastern coast lies Porto Azzurro, a picturesque harbour town with a gorgeous wide promenade running along the sea. You can happily sit on the benches here for hours, watching the luxury yachts at anchor, listening to the lapping of the waves and drinking in the relaxed holiday atmosphere that radiates from this place in every direction.

High above the town rises the enormous historic fortress Forte San Giacomo, built in the 17th century by the Spanish to protect the bay from the enemy. Today the complex serves as a state prison, so unfortunately you can’t look inside, but even the view of its massive walls from outside perfectly underlines the historic character of the whole town and makes a fantastic backdrop for photos.

In the lanes of Porto Azzurro you’ll find dozens of great spots and restaurants. It’s an ideal place for an early-evening stroll rounded off with a good dinner. If you’re after a tip for a fantastic meat-free meal, I warmly recommend the venue MagnEtico Bistrò, which has an incredible 4.9 rating on Google and focuses on creative vegetarian and vegan cuisine made from local ingredients.

15. Mountain Marciana and seaside Marciana Marina

Right at the foot of the highest mountain, Monte Capanne, lies ancient Marciana, a charming mountain village tucked away in deep chestnut forests. It’s from here that the aforementioned yellow cable car sets off for the summit. There’s a lovely calm here, air noticeably cooler than down by the sea thanks to the altitude, and narrow stone lanes that all but invite aimless wandering. Not far away is the pilgrimage site of the Santuario della Madonna del Monte, where, according to legend, Napoleon himself liked to go and meditate.

When you head down the winding little road towards the sea, you’ll reach the town of Marciana Marina, which, as a fun fact, is the smallest municipality in all of Tuscany. It’s an enormously cute and very tidy seaside resort with a small harbour full of boats and a coastal promenade.

The town’s historic icon is the Torre Saracena, a massive old defensive tower from the 12th century that once protected the local inhabitants from bloody pirate raids. Today it’s a great, photogenic spot for a romantic sunset photo, when the tower turns warm orange hues.

16. The mining park in Rio Marina

The eastern part of Elba has a completely different character, both geologically and visually, from the rest of the green island. Its history is closely tied to the massive mining of iron ore, which took place here continuously all the way back to the days of the ancient Etruscans. It was precisely the huge mineral wealth and iron deposits that made Elba an exceptionally strategic and prosperous point in the whole Mediterranean in the past. Napoleon himself went to inspect these mines just three days after arriving on the island.

In the town of Rio Marina you can today visit the hugely interesting Parco Minerario (mining park), which is a great experience not only for families with children but also for adults who want a break from the beaches. Here you can descend into historic mine tunnels with a guide or take a ride on a scenic mine train through the sprawling open-pit mines full of rusty and ochre colours.

Part of the popular tour is also hunting for your own sparkling mineral samples (mainly pyrite and hematite) using borrowed geological hammers. It’s an absolutely great alternative for days when it’s cloudy, a strong wind is blowing, or you simply don’t feel like spending the whole day lying on the beach.

17. The Tuscan Archipelago National Park

Elba isn’t just a lonely island in the middle of the sea — it forms the very heart of the enormous Tuscan Archipelago National Park. With a total area of over 600 square kilometres, it’s the largest marine park in all of Europe — and this is exactly what explains why the sea around Elba is so incredibly clean.

Besides Elba, this unique park includes six other smaller islands: Capraia, Giglio, Giannutri, Gorgona, Montecristo and Pianosa. Thanks to strict rules, nature here is very carefully protected, which is the main reason the sea around Elba is so incredibly crystal clear and full of fascinating underwater life, untouched by heavy industry.

If you like full-day boat trips, you can set off from Elba’s ports on organised sightseeing cruises to the surrounding islands. The mysterious island of Montecristo, made famous by Alexandre Dumas’ novel, has a strictly limited number of visitors per year, so only the very luckiest few get a permit there, and well in advance at that. The other islands, however, are much easier to reach.

18. Hiking and viewpoints at Capo d’Enfola

Thanks to its very mountainous terrain, Elba is an absolute paradise for anyone who doesn’t like to spend the whole holiday on a hotel sunbed. The island is densely woven with a network of perfectly marked hiking trails that lead you from the sea all the way up to the mountain ridges. As I’ve mentioned, the area around Capoliveri is also famous far and wide for its great MTB trails.

A lovely, easy and extremely photogenic walk can be had on the Capo d’Enfola peninsula near Portoferraio, which has a superb 4.7 rating on Google. The route leads you onto a striking green hill connected to the mainland only by a very narrow sandy isthmus, and along the way you’ll come across lots of beautiful viewpoints.

During this easy-going walk you’ll come across abandoned military bunkers from World War II in the forest and can peek into an old tunnel. Your reward for a bit of sweat will be fantastic panoramic views over the whole northern coast and dramatic cliffs plunging steeply into the blue sea. The trip is doable even for families with children — just don’t forget to bring plenty of water.

19. Snorkelling and diving in the clean sea

It’s precisely thanks to its strict status as a protected national park that the underwater world in the immediate vicinity of Elba is incredibly well preserved and varied. If you don’t pack your own mask and snorkel, you’ll regret it terribly, because the water here is as clear as a swimming pool in many places and shoals of fish swim right by the shore, often already at knee-depth.

The best conditions for snorkelling are offered above all by the white pebble beaches in the north, especially the popular Sansone, Capo Bianco or the area around the aforementioned Enfola peninsula. Just a short distance from the shore you’ll see tiny colourful fish and interesting rock formations hidden below the surface. Thanks to the light seabed, underwater visibility here is absolutely phenomenal.

For more experienced and certified divers there are several professional diving centres on the island, for example at the Tenuta delle Ripalte resort. Among the most popular spots for deeper dives are steep cliffs full of the famous red corals, and now and then you might even come across small, fascinating underwater wrecks from the past on the seabed.

20. Where to eat (not just for vegetarians)

An island = fish and seafood, which probably surprises no one. Local cuisine has always revolved around the gifts of the sea, but even for those who aren’t too keen on fish, Elba has plenty to offer. Among the famous local specialities are the fish soup cacciucco and the dish stoccafisso alla riese (dried cod done the local way). But if you don’t eat meat and are looking for plant-based food, don’t worry — Elba has some fantastic vegetarian treasures in store for you too, and they’re definitely worth a try.

You absolutely must try schiaccia briaca (which translates as “drunken cake”). It’s a wonderful traditional Elban dessert with no eggs or milk, made with walnuts, raisins and pine nuts (and the key ingredient: it’s generously soaked in local red wine). To go with it in the evening on the terrace, have a glass of the dessert wine Aleatico Passito dell’Elba DOCG, the island’s most famous wine made from dried grapes, which Napoleon himself reportedly loved and drank.

Another great island choice is gurguglione, a delicious traditional vegetable stew made from fresh aubergine, peppers, courgettes and onion. For a flawless meat-free meal, definitely head to the already-mentioned MagnEtico Bistrò in Porto Azzurro, or to the lovely Ristoro Rurale Orti di Mare in the Lacona locality, where they make great coffee and ice cream from honest ingredients and have a superb 4.5-star rating on Google.

Where to go next from Elba

If you’re spending a holiday in Italy and have more time, it would be a shame to limit yourself to just one island. The mainland offers countless places you can combine with a visit to Elba.

The ferry will take you back to Piombino, from where the other Italian gems are just a short hop away. Get inspired by our other articles:

Frequently asked questions

Here are the answers to the most common practical questions you ask before your trip, so you have everything important in one place without lengthy searching.

How do you get to Elba?

The easiest and most common route is by ferry from the Tuscan port of Piombino. Companies like Moby Lines, Toremar, and Blu Navy operate year-round, the crossing to the main port of Portoferraio takes around 40 to 60 minutes, and tickets for foot passengers start at approximately €15 depending on the season and chosen carrier. In summer there are over 40 connections daily.

Do you need a car on Elba?

Absolutely yes, if you want to explore the island properly. There is a bus service, but in the summer season it tends to be slow and simply won’t get you to the most beautiful secluded bays. A popular and very practical alternative for parking is also a more powerful scooter, which easily weaves through traffic, but keep in mind the hilly terrain.

How many days are enough for Elba?

For an ideal and relaxing holiday, it’s recommended to set aside 4 to 7 days. You could theoretically drive around the island in a single day, but swimming at different beaches, a cable car trip, hiking, and leisurely exploring the evening towns simply demand more time to truly enjoy it.

Which beach on the island is the best?

There isn’t one best beach, the secret lies in choosing according to the wind direction. When the southern scirocco blows, head to the northern beaches (Sansone, Biodola, Capo Bianco). When the northerly wind blows, head south and west (Fetovaia, Cavoli). Thanks to natural shelter, the bay will always be calm, crystal-clear, and without large waves.

Is Elba an expensive destination?

In August it definitely is, because crowds of Italians arrive from the mainland and the prices of accommodation and ferries shoot up steeply. However, if you travel smartly in June or September, prices are much more reasonable, ferries still run very frequently, and the island is overall significantly calmer and more pleasant to explore.

Are Napoleon’s residences worth visiting?

Definitely yes, the entrance fee is only €3, which is a great price for such a huge piece of history. However, you must keep in mind that a visit to both villas (the town residence and the summer villa) must be reserved by phone at least one day in advance, otherwise you most likely won’t get inside at all without prior arrangement.

When should you go so the island isn’t crowded?

The calmest and yet still sunny months with pleasantly warm sea are late May, June, and the first half of September. This way you’ll avoid the August madness, park without problems even at popular beaches, find a spot in restaurants, and prices for services will be overall more friendly.

Is the cable car to Monte Capanne safe?

It’s technically completely safe and regularly maintained (it’s even closed in winter for maintenance), but the open yellow metal cages for two people standing can seem a bit scary. There’s no glass enclosure or high solid railing, so if you suffer from vertigo or a fear of heights, think carefully about the trip up and go on foot instead.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Child Flight Ticket: How Much an Infant Costs in 2026

In air travel there’s a hard dividing line between a child flight ticket for an infant and one for an older child. While a baby under two travelling on your lap costs just a tenth of the fare with legacy carriers, budget airlines charge fixed fees regardless of how long the flight is.

With Ryanair a one-way infant ticket will set you back €25, and with Wizz Air roughly €27. The big trap is a second birthday celebrated during your holiday, because the ticket type is decided by the child’s age on the day of the return flight.

Below I’ll explain in detail how much these tickets really cost and where the hidden fees lurk. You’ll also learn when it makes sense — financially and practically — to buy your baby their own seat.

TL;DR

  • Legacy airlines charge 10% of the fare: Carriers like Lufthansa, Qatar or British Airways charge just a tenth of the adult fare for a lap infant, which is a huge saving on long-haul flights.
  • Budget airlines have a fixed fee: Ryanair charges a hard €25 per segment, while Wizz Air is roughly €27 (or the adult fare, if that happens to be cheaper on sale).
  • Age on the day of the flight decides everything: If your child turns two during your beach holiday, they’ll definitely need their own full seat for the return trip.
  • One adult can only manage one infant: For safety reasons you can’t fly with two children under two on one adult’s lap, because you wouldn’t be able to secure them both in an emergency.
  • Buy cancellation insurance right with the ticket: If your child falls ill the night before departure, you’ll need a doctor’s note dated that day and a no-show confirmation from the airline.
  • New rules from 2027: The European Union has finally approved a regulation requiring airlines to seat children under 14 next to their parents completely free of charge.

10 Things You Need to Know About Child Flight Tickets

Getting your head around airline pricing takes a fair bit of patience and a calculator in hand. Let’s take a detailed look at how prices are built, what to watch out for when booking, and where the biggest financial traps that airlines set for parents are hiding.

1. How much a child flight ticket for under 2s really costs

When you fly with a baby for the first time, you’d logically expect a child with no seat and no meal to fly completely free. The reality varies wildly depending on whether you’re flying with a network carrier or a budget airline, because each uses a completely different maths model. Network carriers like Lufthansa, SWISS, Qatar Airways or Turkish Airlines take a very customer-friendly approach, where a lap infant costs exactly 10% of the adult fare. So if an adult ticket to New York costs €600, the baby flies for €60 — which makes long-haul trips with little ones very appealing.

With budget airlines there’s no percentage discount and they charge a hard fixed fee for every segment flown. Ryanair takes a fixed €25 per segment, so a return ticket for a lap infant costs you €50 regardless of what your own ticket cost. It’s absolutely common to end up in the absurd situation where you snag your own ticket on sale for €15 but pay €25 for the child on your lap. Wizz Air sets this fee at roughly €27, but offers one small workaround: the infant fee drops to the adult ticket level if the adult fare happens to be cheaper.

💡 Tip: On flights within Europe, always work out in advance whether it’s actually cheaper to fly with a legacy airline rather than a budget one. A legacy carrier often throws in a free checked bag for the baby on top of the 10% ticket, whereas with a budget airline you pay the fixed fee for the air alone and have to buy every bag separately at a steep price.

2. The sudden price jump for children over 2

The moment the second birthday arrives, all the flying fun ends and, in the eyes of the airlines, your child becomes almost an adult passenger. A two-year-old now has to sit in their own seat, be fastened with their own seatbelt, and airlines charge accordingly for that space. Budget airlines have no child fare at all, so for a toddler or a school-age child you pay 100% of the adult fare and the game shifts purely to optimising baggage and hunting for sale prices.

Traditional network carriers do have so-called child fares, but don’t expect any miracles from them. The discount for a child aged two to twelve usually hovers around just 15 to 25% of the adult fare, and you get no discount at all on airport taxes and fuel surcharges. So if you’re planning a big, expensive trip somewhere exotic, try to do it before your child’s second birthday, because later the tickets will cost you hundreds of euros more.

💡 Tip: A child with their own seat automatically has the same baggage rights as an adult passenger. So if you pay for a standard ticket with a cabin case, your two-year-old is also entitled to their own case in the cabin, which you can pack with toys, nappies and snacks for the whole family.

3. What to do if your child turns 2 during the trip

This is an absolute classic and a financial trap that families with toddlers fall into with incredible regularity. Airlines simply don’t care how old the child is at the moment you’re buying the tickets on your computer at home. The only thing that matters is the child’s age on the day they board that specific plane. If you’re heading off on a three-week holiday and your child is one year and eleven months at departure, they fly out as a lap infant at a fraction of the price.

But as soon as you celebrate that second birthday on the beach, the infant turns into a standard child passenger overnight and the rules are merciless. A child who turns two during the trip needs their own seat for all onward flights, and most carriers will want you to pay a full child ticket for the return leg. A wonderful exception here is British Airways, who give the child their own seat for the return trip but still only charge the original 10% of the adult fare for it.

💡 Tip: Never leave this to sort out at the airport before flying home, because staff might demand you pay the current, extremely expensive walk-up fare, or refuse to let you board at all. If you know your child will have a birthday during the holiday, call the airline’s customer line before buying the tickets and agree on the exact booking procedure.

4. When it’s worth buying an infant their own seat

Even if your child is under two and you’re fully entitled to take them on your lap for a few euros, sometimes it makes enormous sense to pay the full price for their own seat. Consider it especially on long-haul flights, because holding a twelve-kilo toddler on your lap for twelve hours is an experience that borders on physical torture for both of you. Your own seat gives you the much-needed space, the child can comfortably play and sleep, and you can at least eat a bit without someone kicking your tray table.

The second situation where a separate seat is unavoidable is a solo parent travelling with two children under two. Aviation rules have a hard rule stating that only one lap infant is allowed per adult, because in an emergency you only have two hands and there’s a limited number of oxygen masks per seat. So you have to buy the second infant their own seat and place them in a special car seat with an aviation certification label.

💡 Tip: With Wizz Air there’s a tried-and-tested trick for buying a seat for your baby online. You buy a normal adult ticket, type the word INFANT in the First Name field and put the child’s surname in the Surname field, which lets you avoid the infant fee and pay only for the seat. With Smartwings, on the other hand, a separate seat for an infant can only be bought over the phone.

5. How to add a child to an existing booking

It happens more often than you’d expect. In January, Grandma snaps up heavily discounted tickets for the whole family for an August holiday but completely forgets to click your one-year-old son into the system. Or you buy tickets a year in advance and a few months later find out you’re pregnant and will be flying to the coast one member heavier. If you need to add an infant under two who’ll fly on your lap, it’s usually a relatively painless process with most airlines.

It’s best to handle this directly through the airline’s customer line, because online systems aren’t always built to add people afterwards. Some airlines like easyJet do let you add an infant directly online in the app, but elsewhere you won’t get by without an operator on the phone. You pay that fixed fee or 10% of the fare, and the child is on the passenger list.

💡 Tip: A huge problem arises if you need to add a child over two to an existing adult booking, since they already need their own seat. The system usually won’t let you buy a standalone ticket for a minor without an adult accompanying them. In that case you always have to call support so the operator can manually link the new child ticket to your original adult booking.

6. Loyalty programmes and family traps

Budget airlines are absolute masters of sales psychology, and while buying a ticket they’ll run you through several screens flashing red warnings at you. Plenty of stressed parents click so-called family bundles into the basket believing they’ll save, but the opposite is often true. A typical example is Ryanair, where the family fare usually doesn’t pay off at all and it’s far cheaper to buy the plainest basic fare and then manually add only the bags you genuinely need.

With Wizz Air, on the other hand, it makes huge sense to get their Wizz Discount Club. If you’re travelling as a family of three or four, the membership fee very often pays for itself on the very first return booking, because you get a discount both on the fare itself and on added bags. So always mock up both options in the basket and compare the final amount right before payment.

💡 Tip: Watch out for family seating fees. From June 2026, after regulators stepped in, Ryanair had to change the rules and scrapped the mandatory seat reservation fee for families. If you choose random allocation today, the system has to seat children under 12 next to an adult for free, saving you a lot of money. You’ll just have to accept that you’ll probably end up at the back of the plane.

7. When to buy tickets with kids and how to keep an eye on the price

When you’re off for a weekend with a backpack, you probably don’t care whether you buy the ticket through a search engine like Kiwi or Trip.com. But once you’re travelling with small children, one absolutely iron, unbreakable rule applies that will save you a lot of stress. Always and only buy tickets directly on the official website of the specific airline. With kids, plans constantly change — you need to order a bassinet, sort out stroller dimensions, or deal with a sudden illness and cancellation.

If you have a ticket booked directly with Lufthansa or Ryanair, you call them, talk the problem through and sort it out. But if your ticket is from an intermediary, you become a hostage of their customer service, which charges hefty admin fees for every change, and communication with the airline through them is extremely slow. The €5 you saved on a comparison site will come back to bite you a thousand times over at the first kid-related mishap.

💡 Tip: Better times are on the horizon thanks to the European Union, which in July 2026 approved new passenger rights rules. From mid-2027, airlines will have to show the ticket price including cabin baggage right at the very start of the booking, so the stress of misleading prices — the ones where you then have to pay a fortune to add cases for the whole family at the end — will finally be gone.

8. Cancelling a ticket because of a sick child

This is every parent’s nightmare. It’s nine in the evening, your plane to the coast leaves at six tomorrow morning, and your toddler starts vomiting or their fever shoots up to forty. It’s absolutely clear you’re going nowhere, and you have to act immediately to avoid losing hundreds of euros. If you have budget airline tickets from Ryanair or Wizz Air, you usually won’t manage the online cancellation in the system that evening before departure, so the case flips into what’s called an unused-flight or no-show mode.

To get your money back from the insurer, you need to obtain two absolutely crucial documents, without which you don’t stand a chance. First thing in the morning on the planned departure day, you must contact your paediatrician and have a medical note issued confirming unfitness to travel, and the date on the note must under no circumstances be later than the departure day. The second paper is a no-show confirmation, which you have to request from the airline retroactively and very proactively via their web form.

💡 Tip: With a cold or a runny nose, a problem arises on board due to sinus pressure that’s hard to equalise through the Eustachian tube. If your child has an acute middle-ear infection, the doctor may flatly advise against the trip and you’ll have a clear diagnosis in hand for the insurer. For a mild everyday cold, parents recommend applying a nasal spray before take-off and landing; with babies, breastfeeding right at the moment the plane begins its descent helps.

9. Cancellation insurance for families and what it really covers

People constantly confuse standard travel medical insurance with cancellation insurance. While an EHIC card and ordinary travel cover protect you only once you’re abroad and your child catches tonsillitis there, cancellation insurance saves your money the moment you’re still at home and can’t fly out at all because of illness. The crucial rule is that you can’t buy cancellation insurance a week before departure when the child is already coughing — you ideally have to arrange it the very day you buy the ticket or pay the first deposit.

When choosing cancellation cover, don’t just look at the price but above all at the terms for so-called accompanying persons. If a five-year-old falls ill, it’s logical that one of the parents stays home with them. But the insurer must have it clearly defined in the terms that they also accept cancellation for a healthy sibling and the second parent on the same booking, since they probably won’t fly to the coast alone. Also bear in mind that insurers usually don’t refund the full hundred percent but have a set excess, typically around twenty percent.

💡 Tip: Watch out for what happens with a damaged stroller. Under the international Montreal Convention, the airline is liable for a destroyed stroller, not your travel insurer. The compensation limit runs to over two thousand dollars, but you have to report the damage in writing within 7 days of arrival, ideally as a PIR report right at the airport desk. If you don’t do it straight away, you’ll struggle to get the money out of the airline. Remember that with Smartwings the stroller must be packed in a cover, otherwise they won’t be liable for it.

10. Delays and an infant’s right to compensation (EU 261)

Since we’re talking about rights and money, we have to touch on a topic that’s extremely explosive among travellers and full of uncertainty. EU regulation 261/2004 guarantees you financial compensation of €250 to €600 if your flight is delayed by more than three hours or unexpectedly cancelled. But does this generous compensation claim also apply to a baby flying on your lap with no paid seat of their own?

This is demonstrably a contested area of law and the practice of individual airlines differs dramatically. In practice the deciding criterion is often whether you made any payment for the child. If the airline carries the child completely free, they’ll usually flatly refuse compensation. But if you paid that €25 with Ryanair or ten percent with Lufthansa, the child is a paying passenger with their own ticket and your chances of success rise, even though case law across Europe still isn’t fully unified.

💡 Tip: Don’t be put off by a first rejection. If your flight has a huge delay, always submit the compensation claim for the lap infant, because it only costs you five minutes at the computer. Expect the airline to automatically reject it in the first round, but they’ll often back down after an appeal or the threat of handing the case to the supervisory authority and pay the family the money in the end.

Practical Summary and Guide Prices

So you don’t get lost in this vast pile of rules, I’ve prepared two clear tables with specific figures that apply for this year. Remember that airline prices can change dynamically, so always double-check them right before buying, but as a springboard for your family budget they work absolutely reliably.

Lap infant fees by airline:

CarrierPrice for a lap infant (0–2 years)What’s included in the child ticket
:—:—:—
Lufthansa, Austrian, SWISS10% of the adult fareChecked bag up to 23 kg, stroller, car seat
Qatar, Turkish Airways10% of the adult fareOwn checked bag, stroller or carrycot
Ryanair€25 / £25 per segment (fixed)Only a 5 kg bag (45×35×20 cm), 2 pieces of equipment (stroller)
Wizz Airapprox. €27 per segment (or the adult price)Small bag up to 10 kg, stroller or car seat to check in
SmartwingsReduced fare (depending on the specific flight)Stroller and car seat (stroller must be packed in a cover)

When it’s worth buying a separate seat for a child under 2:

Type of trip and situationWhen to fly on your lap (Infant)When to buy a separate seat
:—:—:—
Short flights within Europe (up to 3 hours)Ideal choice — you can hold the child and save a lot.A pointless luxury; spend the money on a better hotel instead.
Long-haul flights to exotic spots (over 6 hours)Only for very small babies that fit in a bassinet.Recommended for toddlers (1–2 years), otherwise you’ll go mad.
One adult and two children under 2Not possible — the airline won’t let you board.A must for the second child + certified car seat.
Need for a large car seat on boardThe car seat has to go in the hold.A must — the car seat is strapped to a purchased seat.

Where to Next

If your first big trip with kids is coming up and your head is full of worries, take a look at more practical articles I’ve put together based on our own experience and deep research into airline rules:

Frequently Asked Questions

Is there a fee for a stroller on the plane?

With the vast majority of airlines, including low-cost carriers like Ryanair or Wizz Air, there is no fee for transporting a folded stroller. You are typically entitled to free stroller transport right up to the boarding gate, where you hand it over to staff for storage in the hold. Always check, however, whether the airline requires a protective cover for it.

Can I bring a car seat onto the plane?

Yes, you can bring a car seat on board, but you must purchase a separate full-fare seat for your child to secure it on. The car seat must also have a special certification label for use in air travel. If you don’t purchase a seat, the airline will check the car seat into the baggage hold free of charge.

What should we do when we have an infant on our lap with Ryanair and the system wants to seat us separately?

Since June 2026, Ryanair has abolished the mandatory fee for family seating, so the system must seat children under 12 next to one parent free of charge. Keep in mind, however, an important safety rule: an adult travelling with an infant on their lap must always sit by the window, because only there are two oxygen masks available in the panel.

Can I add an infant to a ticket I purchased a month ago?

Yes, adding an infant under two years old to an existing booking is a standard procedure. With some airlines, such as easyJet, you can do it directly online, while with most other carriers you need to call the customer service line and pay a fixed fee. Adding a child over two years old, however, is significantly more complex and requires operator assistance.

Do I have to pack liquids for children in 100 ml bags?

For food and drinks for infants and toddlers (formula, baby food, water for bottles), there is an exception to the 100 ml limit at security control. You can bring the amount needed for the duration of the flight. However, the security officer may ask you to open the bottle so they can test the contents in a special device.

Will a low-cost carrier refund my money if my child gets sick?

The low-cost airline itself will not refund your money for a non-refundable fare, because illness is not the carrier’s fault. That’s why it’s absolutely crucial for families to purchase trip cancellation insurance right when buying the ticket. With a medical report and proof of not boarding the flight, you then handle the refund directly with your insurance company, not with the airline.

When will the new EU rules for families on planes take effect?

The European Union approved new rules for passenger rights in July 2026, which should actually come into force after a transitional period starting mid-2027. They will bring, among other things, an obligation for airlines to seat children under 14 next to an accompanying person completely free of charge, as well as a requirement to display transparent pricing including cabin baggage right at the start of the booking process.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Icehotel Sweden in 2026: Prices, Season & What It’s Like to Sleep on Ice

The famous Icehotel in Sweden is built from pure ice, and in spring it simply melts and flows back into the river. It sounds like madness, but this fleeting concept is exactly what the whole frozen beauty in the little village of Jukkasjärvi is built on. In over thirty years of existence, hundreds of thousands of travellers have slept in its icy beds, happily paying serious money to be voluntarily frozen for a night. If you’re thinking about taking on this Arctic challenge too, you probably have a lot of practical questions buzzing around your head. Whether you can even fall asleep at minus five degrees, whether you’ll freeze on a midnight trip to the toilet, and above all, whether the whole thing is worth the money. We’ve put together the answers to all of those questions — read on so you bring home only the best memories from Lapland (and not a cold 😅).

TL;DR

  • Baseline temperature: Inside the ice rooms the temperature stays steadily at -5 °C, no matter how bitterly cold it is outside.
  • Golden booking rule: Book a maximum of one night on ice — spend the rest of your stay far more comfortably in the classic heated cabins the resort offers.
  • Rough prices: A night in a basic ice room starts at around 6,000 SEK (roughly €530), but the numbers climb sharply over the Christmas holidays.
  • What’s included: With your night you get a special expedition sleeping bag, a hot lingonberry juice delivered to your bed in the morning, and unlimited access to a warm building with a sauna.
  • Cheaper option: If you don’t want to sleep on ice, you can walk through the complex during the day like a gallery. A day ticket costs 325 SEK (about €30).
  • When to go: The traditional winter hotel opens from December to April, but thanks to the solar-powered ICEHOTEL 365 you can sleep on ice even in July.

14 Things to Know Before Visiting the Icehotel in Sweden

Planning a trip to the far north can be a bit of a puzzle, especially when you’re heading off to sleep in a freezer. To help you get the most out of the legendary Icehotel and avoid any nasty surprises, we’ve written down everything you need to know.

1. What the Icehotel Actually Is and How It’s Built

The history of this unique project goes all the way back to 1989, when an ice-art exhibition was held in Jukkasjärvi and a few daredevils decided to spend the night in the gallery. Today it’s the oldest and largest ice hotel in the world, reborn from scratch every winter. The only building material is water from the nearby Torne River, which holds the title of one of the last wild and clean rivers in Europe. Its ice is so crystal clear you can read a newspaper right through it.

The timing of the construction is fascinating too, because the preparations start much earlier than you’d probably expect. Every spring, when the ice on the Torne is at its thickest, workers cut out enormous blocks weighing several tonnes. These giant cubes are then stored in huge refrigerated halls, where they wait out the short northern summer, ready for the autumn build. No concrete is used to join the blocks — instead they use a material called snice. It’s a special mix of snow and ice that works as perfect insulation and gives the whole huge structure incredible strength.

Every year, artists from all over the world go through a strict selection process, and many of them sculpt in ice for the very first time in their lives — but the hotel gives them the tools, training and freedom to create. The results speak for themselves: each edition delivers a design that will never be repeated.

💡 Tip: The hotel runs regular guided tours where guides show you the exact ice-cutting techniques and explain just how tricky it is to build a structure with no solid foundations at all.

2. When It’s Open and Why the Hotel Melts in Spring

The classic winter Icehotel has a very tightly defined season that bows entirely to the whims of northern nature. The hotel usually opens from mid-December and runs until about mid-April. For the upcoming 2026/2027 season, the 37th edition is set to open exactly on 11 December. At this time real winter reigns above the Arctic Circle and you can fully soak up that genuine Arctic atmosphere, when temperatures drop towards minus thirty and the landscape is buried under mounds of fresh snow.

December and early January also bring the phenomenon of polar night, when the sun never rises above the horizon and you can enjoy a magical blue twilight all day long. As the days start to stretch out in spring and the sun regains its strength, the hotel simply closes. The structure is left to its fate and gradually melts and flows back into the Torne River, where it came from in the autumn.

This constant cycle and the transience of the art give the whole place an incredibly poetic and eco-friendly dimension. It’s not just a tourist attraction but more of a giant art installation that fully respects nature’s rhythms. Guests confirm that knowing your room will vanish from the face of the earth in a few months makes the night an even more powerful experience.

💡 Tip: If you want to see the artists at work, it pays to arrive in the very first days after the December opening. You can often watch the sculptors up close as they put the finishing touches on some of the suites, which is a fascinating sight.

3. ICEHOTEL 365 in Sweden: How the Year-Round Ice Hall Works

For many years the rule was that you had to head out for the ice experience strictly in the harshest winter and endure a demanding journey across snowy Lapland. That changed in 2016 with the birth of ICEHOTEL 365. It’s a huge, specially insulated hall that keeps below freezing all year round, using very modern and sustainable technology.

This year-round complex is cooled entirely by solar energy, of which there’s plenty in Lapland during summer thanks to the midnight sun. And it works beautifully simply: the more the sun shines and warms in summer, the more energy the solar panels produce to cool the icy interior. So you can arrive in the middle of a hot July, stroll along the river in a T-shirt through green meadows, then change into a chunky winter overall and go cool off in the ice gallery.

Within the 365 hall you’ll find the most luxurious accommodation types and the famous ice bar, which draws visitors all year long. It’s an ideal solution for travellers who can’t stand the brutal Arctic winters but still want to tick a night on ice off their bucket list. It creates a surreal contrast you won’t forget in a hurry.

💡 Tip: Even if you visit the 365 hall in the middle of summer, bring a really good winter hat and warm socks. The hotel will lend you a thermal cape, but your own accessories will make the visit far more pleasant.

4. Ice Room Types: From Basic to Works of Art

Once you’ve firmly decided on a night on ice, you’ll have a few accommodation levels to choose from, differing dramatically in decoration and price. The most basic and least decorated option is the Ice Room, a standard room with an ice bed. It has no specific artistic decoration, no sculptures on the walls, and serves purely as the practical, cheapest choice for those who just want to tick off that frozen feeling.

A big step up are the famous Art Suites — those breathtaking rooms whose incredible photos circle the internet worldwide. Each suite has its own unique theme, from abstract geometric shapes resembling the cosmos to detailed carved sculptures of animals or fantastical creatures from local legends. Sleeping in a room like this feels like a night spent inside an art gallery, with the illuminated ice giving the whole space a magical glow.

If you crave absolute, undisturbed luxury, the year-round ICEHOTEL 365 hall has Deluxe Suites named Hilla, Jáuvre and Johka. These rooms are not only beautifully decorated by world-class artists, but also come with a private heated relaxation room with its own sauna and toilet. That means you never have to dash across a freezing courtyard at night — a detail many guests would pay their weight in gold for.

💡 Tip: If you book a basic Ice Room, don’t be sad about missing the art. All the empty Art Suites are open during the day as a regular gallery, so you can inspect and photograph them in detail before their guests move in for the evening.

5. Warm Rooms and Why You Should Combine Them with Ice

One of the most common mistakes eager first-time visitors to the north make is the desire to spend an entire long weekend in an ice room. But as the smiling staff and hundreds of guest reviews will confirm, the ideal length of a stay on ice is exactly one night. Sleeping in the cold is a very specific and physically demanding experience that will tire you out rather than actually let your body rest and recover after the flight.

So I’d recommend spending the rest of your dream holiday in classic warm rooms, of which the Jukkasjärvi resort has several types. Very popular and cosy are the wooden Arctic Cabins, which offer pleasant northern warmth and their own kitchenette, or the far more modern hotel rooms from the Kaamos range. You get the best of both worlds: one night of genuine Arctic challenge and then a comfortable safety cushion by the radiator.

The hotel’s booking system is perfectly set up for this proven strategy and even suggests great-value packages combining one ice night and two warm nights. A huge advantage is that during a stay in a warm room, you can walk through the ice hotel complex free of charge at any time as visitors, without having to pay the day entrance fee.

💡 Tip: If you book a combined stay, always plan the ice night for the very first day. You’ll be full of adrenaline and excitement, which will help you overcome the cold, and for the rest of your stay you’ll just be warming up in the sauna.

6. Icehotel Sweden Prices: A Night on Ice and in a Warm Cabin

Sweden generally isn’t a cheap European destination, and a night in a world-unique hotel that has to be laboriously rebuilt every year naturally comes at a premium. The price for one night in a basic Ice Room ranges from around 6,000 SEK (roughly €530) for two people. The richly decorated Art Suites work out a few hundred euros more, while the luxury Deluxe rooms with their own sauna reach astronomical heights.

Accommodation in the warm Kaamos rooms or the cosy Arctic Cabins is a little friendlier to your wallet — expect to pay around 3,000 to 4,000 SEK per night (roughly €270 to €350). But it’s important to stress that the hotel uses very dynamic pricing, much like the airlines, so the amounts constantly change according to current demand and occupancy.

Guest experiences clearly show that the key to a better price is planning far in advance. If you book your stay six months ahead, you have a chance of grabbing much nicer rates than if you go looking for a free room a month before departure.

💡 Tip: If you want to save significantly, avoid the dates around Christmas, New Year and Valentine’s Day, when prices shoot up to their yearly peaks. You’ll find noticeably cheaper accommodation right at the start of December after opening, or towards the end of March and in April.

7. What It’s Really Like: Sleeping at Minus Five Degrees

The idea of sleeping in a room carved from pure ice may sound terrifying at first, but physics is one hundred percent on your side. Regardless of whether it’s a pleasant zero outside or an Arctic storm raging at minus thirty, the temperature inside the ice rooms stays steadily at -5 °C. The bed itself is of course carved from a solid ice block, but on top of it lies a classic comfortable mattress covered with a thick layer of genuine reindeer hides. These act as a perfect natural insulator.

Before bed, the smiling staff hand you a special expedition sleeping bag tested for extreme cold. You mustn’t wear too many layers of clothing inside, because the sleeping bag works primarily by reflecting your own body heat back to you. The ideal kit is quality merino thermal underwear, one pair of really warm woollen socks, and above all a proper winter hat, since most heat escapes from an uncovered head.

In their reviews, guests agree that sleep on ice is surprisingly deep and quiet, because the thick snow walls absorb all the noise from outside. Getting up and dressing in a freezing room in the morning does require a hefty dose of willpower, so you’ll welcome the warmth of the neighbouring building with open arms. 😅

💡 Tip: People who suffer from claustrophobia sometimes fear being zipped tightly into the sleeping bag. If that’s your case, the staff will happily lend you two sleeping bags that can be zipped together, giving you far more room to move during the night.

8. Everything Included in the Price

For your hard-earned money you don’t just get a freezing ice bed, but a fairly comprehensive and well-thought-out service. The most important bonus is access to the large heated Riverside Lobby building, which is open to guests 24 hours a day. Here you have spacious lockable lockers for all your luggage, since you take only the absolute essentials for sleeping into the ice room.

In this pleasantly warm building you’ll also find clean toilets, spacious showers and a huge Finnish sauna. The sauna is key to your evening preparation before lying down on the ice, because it warms you deeply and relaxes stiff muscles. So there’s no need to worry that you’ll have nowhere to carry out your usual hygiene in the middle of the wilderness in the evening, or that you’ll have to shiver in your coat from the afternoon on.

And then there’s the legendary, universally loved morning ritual. Around half past seven in the morning, a member of staff quietly enters your room and wakes you with a mug of hot lingonberry juice, handed straight into your sleeping bag. It’s a detail worth the early wake-up in a frozen room all on its own: hot juice straight into the sleeping bag is simply perfect.

💡 Tip: In the evening before bed, warm up really thoroughly in the sauna, but avoid drinking large amounts of liquid. The last thing you want in the middle of the night is to have to climb out of your sleeping bag and run across the courtyard to the toilet in the next building.

9. A Cheaper Alternative: Daytime Gallery Entry

For plenty of travellers, the price of a night on ice is simply too high, or they just don’t fancy sleeping in a sleeping bag in the cold. Luckily, the hotel management has this covered and offers a great alternative for everyone. During the day, usually between ten in the morning and six in the evening, the whole ice complex works as a unique art gallery open to the general public.

A day ticket costs a very bearable 325 SEK (about €30), while children aged 4 to 12 pay just a symbolic 39 SEK. With this ticket you can freely wander through absolutely all the ice corridors, peek into the breathtaking Art Suites, photograph the details of the illuminated ice sculptures and simply soak up all that magical Arctic atmosphere, without having to freeze there overnight.

For many people this is actually the best choice, because they enjoy all the visual art during the day and then calmly return in the evening to their affordable guesthouse in nearby Kiruna, where they take a hot shower and fall asleep in a normal bed.

💡 Tip: If you decide on just a daytime gallery visit, come in the early afternoon or just before closing time. Around midday, coachloads of tourists often roll in, and the narrow ice corridors can get needlessly crowded.

10. The ICEBAR and Legendary Drinks in Ice Glasses

A visit to the ice complex definitely wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the famous, world-renowned ICEBAR, which is also part of the year-round 365 hall. Even if for some reason you decide to skip the tour of the art rooms, a drink at the massive ice counter is simply a must. The interior of this bar changes completely every year according to the designers’ concepts, but it always offers a dance floor made of ice and beautiful colourful light installations.

The absolute speciality and main draw here are the drinks served in massive glasses carved from pure ice straight from the Torne River. Don’t worry that the bartender will drop ice cubes into your drink — the glass itself keeps your drink perfectly chilled the whole time you’re sipping it. The selection of original cocktails is surprisingly varied, and if you don’t drink alcohol, the skilful bartenders will gladly mix you excellent and beautifully colourful non-alcoholic versions from local syrups.

To avoid the unpleasant surprise of the ice glass sticking to your bare hands after a few minutes, you get special gloves with your order at the bar. A drink from an ice glass is a little slippery, a little heavy and a little overpriced — and yet you’ll be telling everyone about it back home. 😁

💡 Tip: The ice glasses are fairly heavy and slippery. If you’re travelling with small children, the staff can prepare them a sweet non-alcoholic drink in a normal cup on request, to avoid unnecessary accidents and spilled juice on the ice floor.

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Where to stay in Jukkasjärvi
5 accommodations — wellness hotels, resorts and other lodging options

11. The Ice Church for Unforgettable Weddings

Part of the sprawling winter complex, regularly from December to April, is a beautiful smaller ice church that’s officially consecrated by the local pastor from Jukkasjärvi. Every winter dozens of couples in love come here from all over the world to say their “I do” in a unique, frozen setting. A wedding at minus five degrees naturally takes a fair amount of courage, but professional photos of the bride in a white fur surrounded by illuminated ice blocks are simply phenomenal.

Besides extravagant weddings, ceremonial christenings and regular Sunday services for the local community and visitors are held here too. Thanks to the perfect silence, the atmosphere inside is very intimate and solemn, heightened by special dimmed lighting that plays in all shades of blue and purple.

For ordinary tourists the church is fully accessible with a standard day ticket, so even if you’re not planning a wedding, you can calmly sit down on the wooden pews covered with warm reindeer hides and take in the incredible acoustics that the precisely carved ice vault naturally creates.

💡 Tip: If you’re a keen photographer, the church offers some of the best lighting conditions in the whole complex. Try focusing on the details of the altar, which is often carved into the shape of intertwined trees or crosses of crystal-clear ice.

12. Winter Activities Around the Icehotel

A stay in snowy Jukkasjärvi is definitely not just about sitting in an ice room and sipping hot juice. The surrounding rugged wilderness offers dozens of amazing activities, which the hotel reception will happily help you book. The most popular is undoubtedly a dog sledding ride (husky safari). Being pulled by a pack of enthusiastic dogs across vast frozen lakes and through snowy forests is one of the absolute highlights of any northern trip.

You’re sure to fall for the adrenaline-fuelled snowmobile rides too, or the evening expeditions in search of the magical northern lights, which take place far from the village’s light pollution. From a cultural point of view, a fantastic experience is a visit to the Sámi open-air museum Nutti Sámi Siida, which lies just a short drive from the hotel. Here you’ll learn all about the indigenous people of Lapland and their fascinating life, which has been closely tied to reindeer herding for centuries.

As for local gastronomy, northern cuisine draws heavily on the wilderness. On restaurant menus you’ll commonly see traditional reindeer meat or fresh Arctic fish. If you or your partner don’t eat meat, don’t worry: the chefs will gladly prepare fantastic meat-free options from local mushrooms, potatoes and wild forest berries, seasoned to a world-class standard.

💡 Tip: If you’re planning a dog sledding ride, watch out for the cold. For safety reasons, many operators cancel rides once the outside temperature drops below -20 °C, because breathing in icy air during physical exertion is dangerous for you and the animals alike.

13. Who the Ice Experience Is For and Who Should Skip It

There’s a fairly widespread myth that a night on ice is only for couples in love on their honeymoon or extreme adventurers who thrive on discomfort. In reality, though, families with older children regularly come to the Icehotel too, for whom sleeping in a sleeping bag on an ice bed is a huge and enormously fun experience. The hotel officially recommends a stay on ice for children from about six years old, but it mainly comes down to their temperament and tolerance of the cold.

On the other hand, before booking you have to honestly admit to yourself that a night at minus five degrees isn’t a luxury wellness break but rather a little Arctic expedition. It requires the ability to adapt and to put up with a bit of discomfort while getting dressed in the morning.

If you suffer from severe claustrophobia in zipped-up sleeping bags, have more serious circulation problems, or simply and honestly can’t stand the cold, I’d recommend saving your money. It’s not for everyone, and that’s perfectly fine. Come during the day, photograph the ice sculptures and warm up with a coffee in the cosy lobby? That’s a lovely holiday too. ☺️

💡 Tip: If you’re not sure how your body will react to the sleeping bag and the cold, try spending one night on your balcony or in the garden during the winter months before your trip. You’ll get a very good idea of what actually awaits you up north.

14. What Else to See Nearby and Ice Alternatives

Kiruna is a genuine one-off: because of the massive iron-ore mining in the LKAB mine, which has undermined the stability of the ground, the entire town is being moved several kilometres away. So you can watch with your own eyes the fascinating process of buildings being relocated on special chassis to the new centre, while the old one gradually disappears from the world.

And if the ice concept has captured your heart but Sweden doesn’t suit you for some logistical reason, you’ll find similar ice hotels in the neighbouring Nordic countries too. A great alternative that travellers often recommend is the Norwegian Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel in Alta or the beautiful Finnish Snowhotel in Kirkenes, which work on a very similar and no less magical principle.

💡 Tip: If you choose Kiruna as your base and just commute to Jukkasjärvi, plan a tour of the underground LKAB mine. You’ll descend hundreds of metres below ground and understand the enormous scale of the mining that drives the whole region. Entries need to be booked well in advance.

Where to Stay

💡 Accommodation and experience tip: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. It’s then worth comparing and buying tickets, tours and activities through GetYourGuide.

If the legendary Icehotel is already hopelessly booked out for your dates, or you’re simply after a more affordable base for your trips, the surrounding area offers superb alternatives. Kiruna is a short drive from Jukkasjärvi and has accommodation for every budget.

Tips for Great Hotels Nearby

Right in nearby Kiruna, the resort Camp Ripan is very popular among travellers, boasting an excellent Arctic spa. Here you can soak in outdoor hot pools after a whole day in the cold and enjoy some typical northern relaxation.

Another great choice is the modern Scandic Kiruna, which stands right in the newly built town centre. The rooms are beautifully clean, the breakfasts generous, and thanks to the strategic location you’re really just a short walk from the bus and train for your other Arctic trips.

Where to Eat

Lappish cuisine is all about the wilderness, mushrooms and northern berries, and you should definitely try it during your visit. Even though you’re in a relatively remote area, you’ll find surprisingly top-notch gastronomy here.

Restaurants You Shouldn’t Miss

Right across from the ice complex you’ll find the celebrated Icehotel Restaurant. The prices are understandably higher, but their well-crafted tasting menu is genuinely worth it and perfectly complements the exclusive experience of the accommodation.

If you’re after something more traditional, a short walk from the hotel is The Old Homestead (Hembygdsgården). They have gorgeous wooden interiors and make the best waffles and hearty soups far and wide. In Kiruna itself, be sure to try the renowned bistro SPiS, which offers fantastic local ingredients in a modern Nordic guise.

How to Get to Jukkasjärvi

The journey above the Arctic Circle may seem like a huge logistical challenge at first glance, but thanks to Sweden’s excellent infrastructure you’ll manage it fairly easily. Most travellers coming from abroad choose the fastest option, which is the plane. You can get there with one quick transfer at Stockholm’s Arlanda airport, with the domestic connecting flights to Kiruna most often operated by SAS or Norwegian. Flights can be found at very reasonable prices in sales, but bear in mind that direct flights to Lapland appear only very rarely, more as seasonal charters. The nearest airport to the Icehotel in Sweden is Kiruna.

Once you’ve safely landed at the small Kiruna airport, you’re pretty much there. Jukkasjärvi lies just about 17 kilometres away, which means roughly twenty to thirty minutes of easy driving. The simplest option is to use the direct airport transfers, which the Icehotel organises itself for a fee and which connect with arrivals from Stockholm. If you prefer more independence, taxis usually wait in front of the airport, or you can hop on the local bus, which is the most affordable option, though it takes a bit of planning around the timetables.

For lovers of train romance there’s one more very popular alternative. You can fly only to Stockholm and from there board the night train (operated by SJ or Vy) that takes you straight to Kiruna in 15 to 18 hours. It’s a wonderful experience, waking up in the middle of a snowy wilderness while also saving on one night’s hotel. Just watch out that the Malmbanan line tends to be overloaded with freight trains in winter, and delays are no great rarity here.

💡 Tip: If you want to rent a car at Kiruna airport, there’s no need to panic about driving on snow. Swedish rental companies automatically fit all cars with top-quality studded winter tyres, which grip safely into the packed ice on the roads.

Sample Budget for Three Nights

Winter Lapland is without a doubt a premium destination, and I’d recommend having a decent financial cushion ready, because Nordic prices can sometimes take you by surprise. To give you a better idea of roughly how much money to set aside, we’ve put together a realistic sample budget for one person for a long weekend (3 nights). This itinerary includes the golden standard: one night on ice, two nights in the comfort of a warm room, and basic activities. Prices are approximate, converted for 2026 at a rate of roughly €0.09 per 1 SEK.

The biggest item is naturally the accommodation itself. As we’ve already mentioned, dynamic pricing plays a huge role, but if you avoid Christmas, the budget looks roughly like this:

  • Return flight (with a transfer via Stockholm to Kiruna): €180 – €260
  • 1 night in a basic Ice Room: approx. €260 per person (based on two people sharing)
  • 2 nights in a warm Kaamos room: approx. €140 per person
  • Airport transfer to the hotel and back: approx. €35
  • Husky safari (half-day sledding trip): approx. €120
  • Food (lunches and dinners in restaurants): approx. €140
  • TOTAL estimate for a long weekend: roughly €880

If you decided to save money and visit the Icehotel only during the day as part of a tour (entrance fee €30) and spend all three nights in a regular hotel in Kiruna, your budget per person would drop to around €600. So it all comes down to your priorities.

💡 Tip: If you want to save money on food, look out for the “dagens rätt” (daily menu) in restaurants during the day. For around €12 you get a hot main course, an unlimited salad buffet, bread and coffee, which will keep you full until the evening. Buy alcohol exclusively at the state-run Systembolaget shops — in bars it’s extremely overpriced.

Where to Next

If you’re already planning a trip to the far north, don’t miss our other guides, which will help you save both time and money:

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are the most common questions about staying at the Icehotel that you often ask us.

How much does a night at the Icehotel cost?

Prices are very dynamic and depend on occupancy. A basic ice room (Ice Room) starts from 6,000 SEK (approximately €550) per night for two people. Richly decorated art suites (Art Suites) start at around 8,000 SEK. During Christmas holidays and Valentine’s Day, prices rise by up to tens of percent, so book early. It’s also worth checking out the various package deals that the hotel offers on its website.

What is the temperature inside and can you freeze?

The ice rooms maintain a constant temperature of -5 °C, even when the outdoor thermometer shows minus thirty. You don’t need to worry about freezing at all. The staff provides you with a special expedition sleeping bag tested for extreme cold, and you sleep on an insulating layer of genuine reindeer hides.

Can you visit the Icehotel just for a tour?

Yes, and it’s a very popular and affordable option for most tourists. During the day (usually from 10 AM to 6 PM), the complex functions as an art gallery. A day ticket costs 325 SEK (around €30) and you can explore all the ice chambers and the famous ICEBAR at your leisure. Families also benefit from discounted children’s rates.

What should I bring for sleeping in an ice room?

Forget thick sweaters – they would actually do more harm than good. For the sleeping bag, you only need one layer of quality wool thermal underwear (preferably merino wool) and warm wool socks. The absolutely crucial item is a comfortable winter hat, because most heat escapes through your head. Excess clothing would prevent the sleeping bag from properly reflecting your body heat back to you.

When is the Icehotel open?

The classic winter hotel built from snow opens from mid-December to mid-April, before it finally melts in spring and flows into the river. However, the complex also features a special luxury hall called ICEHOTEL 365, cooled by solar energy. You can visit it for ice art anytime throughout the year, even in the middle of summer.

Are there heated toilets on the premises?

Of course, nobody leaves you to freeze. While the ice rooms themselves don’t have toilets or showers, there’s a heated building called Riverside Lobby open 24 hours a day in close proximity. There you’ll find very comfortable bathrooms, clean toilets, a hot sauna, and lockable lockers for your luggage. You can comfortably prepare for the night in warmth.

Can you sleep in the ice with children?

Yes, families with children are regular guests at the hotel. Management recommends ages six and up, but it very much depends on how accustomed the particular child is to winter and discomfort. Most children perceive it as a huge and incredibly fun adventure that they remember their whole lives. The hotel also offers children’s sizes of Arctic sleeping bags.

What’s the best way to get to Jukkasjärvi?

The fastest option is to fly to Stockholm and from there take a connecting domestic flight to the small airport in Kiruna. Flights are most commonly operated by SAS or Norwegian. From Kiruna airport, it’s only about twenty minutes to Jukkasjärvi. You can use the hotel’s own transfers, a taxi, or the local bus, which stops near the accommodation.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

What to Pack for Kids on a Plane: A List by Age

When it comes to kids’ airplane packing, don’t pack the carry-on just for the flight itself — pack it for the worst-case scenario, the one where your checked bag never shows up. It needs to hold everything essential for the first twenty-four hours in your new destination, so you don’t have to go hunting for an open shop the moment you land.

Besides medicine, travel documents and enough food, don’t forget a change of clothes in case of an accident. Most parents remember a clean T-shirt for their child, but they often forget to pack a spare for themselves.

I’ve put together specific packing lists neatly divided by your child’s age. Read through which toys work best and what to watch out for when packing liquid pouches.

TL;DR

  • Pack for the worst-case scenario: Always plan for a three-hour delay on the tarmac and a checked bag that doesn’t arrive.
  • A change of clothes for you: An adult T-shirt is the most commonly forgotten item — the one that saves your sanity when an accident happens.
  • Check the liquid rules at your airport: Rules now vary widely by airport and terminal — some hubs allow containers up to 2 litres thanks to new scanners, while many still enforce the strict 100 ml limit.
  • Baby food is exempt: Infant formula and milk aren’t subject to the 100 ml limit, but sunscreen is (don’t count it as medicine).
  • Ziploc bags are a must: Airtight resealable bags save the rest of your backpack from wet or dirty items.
  • Dole out the entertainment gradually: Don’t pull out toys and the tablet before the plane has even taken off — save them for when real boredom hits.

10 Things Not to Forget

Packing for a trip with a child is a whole new discipline where you learn something new every year. Let’s look at the most important points.

1. What Must Always Be in Your Carry-On

💡 Tip: Pack for the situation where the flight is delayed and your checked bag doesn’t arrive at all. Everything you absolutely need to survive the first 24 hours has to be with you in the cabin.

Picture a perfectly ordinary situation. You board the plane, get settled, the doors close — and then the captain announces that due to a technical issue or the weather you’re facing a delay. You sit on the tarmac for a good three hours and can’t get off. Or, even worse, after a long flight you discover that your suitcase has been lost and all you have is what’s in your hands.

These crisis scenarios are exactly what you pack a child’s carry-on for. Never pack for the ideal flight, because that rarely happens with small children. The cabin backpack should hold a complete survival kit that keeps you calm even when everything goes wrong. The rules on exact bag dimensions and what your child gets for free vary by airline and by the child’s age, so always check them carefully or take a look at our article Luggage for Children on a Plane.

The key is to have everything split into logical groups, so you’re not blindly digging at the bottom of the bag for wet wipes when an accident strikes. Use small fabric pouches or clear cases so you can see at a glance where to reach. It’ll save you an unbelievable amount of stress.

2. A Change of Clothes for Parents and Ziploc Bags

💡 Tip: A plain cotton T-shirt for an adult takes up minimal space in the bag, but in a crisis it literally saves your dignity.

Every parent knows to pack a change of clothes for their child (and most pack two complete sets straight away). But what the vast majority of parents forget on their first flight is a change of clothes for themselves. Seasoned travellers on forums describe it perfectly and bluntly.

One well-known story from the British forum Mumsnet describes a mother who spent a twelve-hour flight covered in vomit from her eight-month-old, who started throwing up shortly after take-off. Spending hours in an air-conditioned cabin in a T-shirt your child has spilled juice on or soiled is absolute purgatory. Roll one spare T-shirt into your bag, and ideally a pair of light leggings too.

Always add at least two empty resealable plastic bags (so-called Ziploc bags) alongside the clothes. When a clothing mishap does happen, you need somewhere to seal the dirty, wet items airtight. That way you stop moisture from ruining the rest of your bag and prevent smells from spreading in the cramped cabin.

3. Nappies, Changing and Hygiene On Board

💡 Tip: Work out how many nappies you’ll use for the whole journey, from your front door to the hotel, and add a sensible reserve for delays — but don’t drag any more than that into the cabin.

A common mistake nervous parents make is trying to cram a half-holiday supply of nappies into the carry-on. Nappies are bulky and eat up all your precious space. Remember, you can buy nappies literally anywhere in the world, even in the most out-of-the-way little shops. For the plane you only need enough to cover the journey and a possible delay of a few hours.

As for the changing itself, cabin crew swear by one crucial rule. Do a so-called double-nappy change right before boarding, while you’re still in the terminal. The changing tables in aircraft toilets are extremely small, and wrestling a bigger toddler onto one feels like a wrestling match in a phone booth.

Here comes an absolutely critical warning. Used nappies always go in the bin — never throw them into the aircraft toilet. Aircraft toilets work on a vacuum-suction principle, and a nappy full of absorbent gel will jam the system instantly (putting the toilet out of action for the whole cabin). For children under 5 on long flights, consider using pull-up nappy pants. When the plane hits turbulence and the seatbelt sign comes on, your child might not be allowed to the toilet for an hour, and pull-ups act as a safety net.

4. Medicine and a First-Aid Kit in the Carry-On (the Sunscreen Trap)

💡 Tip: Medicine always belongs in the cabin — never put it in a checked bag that could get lost or freeze in the hold.

The contents of your cabin first-aid kit should cover acute situations (fever, pain), not a month’s worth of chronic treatment. The basics for the cabin include fever medicine and a reliable thermometer. Always discuss specific products with your paediatrician in advance. For larger boxes of prescription medication, carry a doctor’s note in English, though airport practice varies ⚠️ (you must always follow the instructions of security staff).

But watch out for the trap that so many families fall into. Sunscreen does not count as medicine and is subject to the standard liquid limits. Liquid rules now differ from airport to airport — some hubs have introduced new CT scanners that allow containers up to 2 litres, while many others (including terminals used by low-cost carriers like Ryanair and easyJet) still enforce the 100 ml limit in a one-litre bag. Always check the rules for the airport you’re flying from and back to.

If you’re thinking of calming your child before the flight with some kind of medicine, be very careful. Don’t give melatonin to children under 2, and for older children always consult a doctor first. We never recommend giving children sleep medication just for convenience on a plane, because in a pressurised cabin they can react unpredictably.

5. Food and Drink On Board

💡 Tip: Baby food and breast milk are exempt from the 100 ml limit — you can bring the amount you need for the journey.

Food and drink are key to a happy child on a plane. While adults have to buy water after security, baby food (snacks, pouches) and milk are exempt from the limit. You don’t have to squeeze them into the clear one-litre bag. Just bear in mind that security may ask you to show the contents or even taste them (practice varies between airports ⚠️).

Don’t rely on the flight attendants — keep an empty resealable water bottle handy. You carry it through security empty and then easily fill it at a drinking fountain at most airports. The air on a plane is very dry and children need to drink far more often, so waiting for the drinks trolley really doesn’t pay off.

When choosing snacks, go for dry, long-lasting items. Crackers, cut-up fruit or snack bars work brilliantly. Avoid anything that melts, crumbles or sticks. Feeding in small pieces also takes plenty of time and naturally keeps your child occupied.

6. How to Organise the Bag So You Can Actually Find Things

💡 Tip: Use compression bags to separate the kids’ things from yours and save precious space in the backpack.

Packing for a family holiday sometimes feels like moving out of a small flat. If you’re flying with a low-cost carrier on the basic fare (just a bag under the seat), a child’s little backpack simply isn’t enough for the whole holiday. Many parents make the mistake of giving the toddler its own backpack, which the child gets bored of after five minutes — leaving the parent to carry it.

Rather than having no free hands, a much better strategy is to buy at least one adult a higher fare (Priority), which includes a proper wheeled cabin case. You can wheel the case with one hand, wear your backpack on your back, and keep your other hand free for your child. Since 12 November 2025, Ryanair also requires boarding passes exclusively in the app, so you’ll constantly need a hand on your phone.

Organise the bag so the most important things are within reach. Wet wipes, pain medicine and a dummy must never be at the bottom. Put the spare clothes in a compression bag, roll the air out of it and stash it right at the bottom (you won’t need it straight away).

7. A List for Babies Under Six Months

💡 Tip: You don’t need complicated toys — at this age a baby mainly needs sensorimotor stimulation and your closeness.

Travelling with babies under six months is, paradoxically, often the easiest, even though it’s what scares parents the most. A baby usually sleeps through most of the flight if you keep them in a carrier or on your lap. The essentials are plenty of milk (whether breast milk or formula) and a dummy, which helps equalise ear pressure during take-off and landing.

Pack a crinkly cloth book or a toy in contrasting colours. You really don’t need much more. It’s more important to think about your baby’s temperature comfort. There’s often a draught from the floor of the plane and the air conditioning can be aggressive, so pack warm socks and a light cotton blanket to cover the baby when they fall asleep.

For yourself, don’t forget to pack enough breast pads (if you’re breastfeeding) and a disposable changing mat. It’s handy not just for the toilet changing table, but also as a clean surface if you have to lay the baby down on airport seats while waiting for a delayed flight.

8. A List for Babies From Six Months to One Year

💡 Tip: A plain packet of paper tissues makes a genius toy — let them pull out one tissue after another.

This is the age when a child takes in their surroundings far more intensely and won’t just sleep. At the same time they don’t yet understand cartoons on a tablet, so all the entertaining falls on your shoulders. The rescuers tend to be utterly ordinary things. Plain stickers work brilliantly — stick them on the back of their hand and let them try to peel them off.

An empty plastic bottle also does the trick — throw in a few pieces of dry pasta as a rattle (just make sure it’s shut tightly). At this age, restricted movement starts to become a problem. The child wants to crawl or stand up, but has to sit on your lap.

The rule is: only start doling out entertainment the moment boredom sets in. Boarding and taxiing on the runway are visually interesting enough on their own. Let your child watch out the window and look at the safety card. Only once they start getting fussy should you pull out your first trump card.

9. A List for Toddlers From One to Three Years

💡 Tip: Paper masking tape printed with a road stuck onto the fold-down tray table will keep a toddler busy more reliably than expensive toys.

Parents agree that the age between one and three is the hardest of all for travel. The child already wants to walk, has a mind of their own, but still can’t hold their attention on a film. Bring a magnetic drawing board (no markers to ruin the seat) or water colouring books, where the brush only fills with clean water.

Another tried-and-tested trick is reusable window stickers or a quiet book (an interactive fabric book). The zero-cost emergency option is a pad of sticky notes (Post-its) and a pen. Draw faces on them and let your child stick them all over the seat in front of you. They peel off easily and leave no glue behind.

An important rule the whole cabin will appreciate: nothing that makes noise belongs on a plane — nothing that plays tunes, flashes or spills easily. Avoid anything you can’t quickly scoop back into a box with one hand when the plane suddenly lurches. For more tips, check out our article How to Entertain a Child on a Plane.

10. A List for Pre-Schoolers and School-Age Kids

💡 Tip: On a plane, a tablet is a capsule outside normal time and space — drop the parental guilt and use it to your advantage.

With pre-schoolers and school-age kids, focused activities and storytelling start to work. Pack sticker books, a travel version of a board game (like Dobble or Uno) or building blocks with bigger pieces. A tried-and-tested free trick is to grab a printed toy or perfume catalogue from the duty-free shops at the airport. Kids can flick through and choose from it for tens of minutes.

But the absolute essential is a well-prepared tablet. In-flight Wi-Fi is expensive or doesn’t work, so don’t rely on streaming. Download at least four times what you plan to play (kids often switch, and what they love at home bores them quickly in the air). Don’t forget a strong power bank.

To stop your child from disturbing the people around you, headphones are an absolute must. Look for a pair with a volume limiter, so your child doesn’t damage their hearing in the noisy cabin. They must also have a wired connection option, because not every in-flight system can be paired wirelessly over Bluetooth.

Practical Summary and Rough Prices

When packing your cabin bag, you constantly have to balance airline limits against airport rules. To keep it all straight, I’ve put together two key tables to help you get your head around the rules for 2026.

Table 1: Airport Liquid Limits (2026) Liquid rules increasingly vary depending on which terminal you’re flying from and whether it has the new CT scanners. Baby food and milk are exempt, but the rest of your cosmetics (and sunscreen) are subject to these limits.

Terminal typeLimit for ordinary liquidsTake out of the bag?Who flies from here
:—:—:—:—
Older terminals (no new scanners)Max 100 ml in a one-litre clear bagYES (everything into a plastic tray)Many low-cost carriers, e.g. Ryanair, Wizz Air
Terminals with CT scannersUp to 2 litres at some hubs ⚠️NO (thanks to the new CT scanners)Selected upgraded terminals

Note: Practice at foreign airports on the way back can differ, so we always recommend planning for the stricter 100 ml option if you’re not sure.

Table 2: Baggage Allowance for Babies (under 2, without their own seat) If you don’t buy your child their own seat (they fly on your lap), they’re not entitled to a standard carry-on. Instead, airlines offer a so-called “baby bag”. Here’s an overview of the three most common low-cost carriers.

AirlineBaby BagFree pushchair / car seat
:—:—:—
Ryanair1 bag up to 5 kg (max. 45 × 35 × 20 cm)2 items of equipment free
Wizz Air1 bag up to 10 kg (max. 40 × 30 × 20 cm)1 item of equipment free
easyJetChanging bag (max. 45 × 36 × 20 cm)2 items of equipment free

Where to Next

If your first flight is coming up and you want to be absolutely sure you haven’t forgotten anything, read through our other detailed guides. You’ll find answers to everything, from choosing the right suitcase to your first-aid kit.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I start giving toys and a tablet to my child?

The biggest mistake is pulling out entertainment before takeoff. u003cstrongu003eBoarding the plane is visually interesting in itselfu003c/strongu003e. Introduce toys gradually (roughly every 20 minutes), only when the initial excitement wears off and real boredom sets in. Save the tablet as your absolute last resort, when your child is already tired.

Can I bring children’s snacks and water on board?

Yes, u003cstrongu003ebaby food and breast milk (including formula) are exemptu003c/strongu003e from the 100 ml limit. You can bring the amount needed for the journey. However, security may ask you to open the bottle or taste it. For regular water for older children, bring an empty bottle and fill it after security.

What should I do if my child’s ears get blocked during the flight?

Ear pain is caused by pressure changes, most commonly during descent before landing. For babies, u003cstrongu003egive them a pacifier during takeoff and landingu003c/strongu003e or breastfeed them, as swallowing helps equalize pressure. For older children, offer a drink from a bottle with a straw, crunchy snacks, or let them chew. If your child has a cold, consult your pediatrician about nasal spray.

Can I give my child sleep medication before the flight?

Never give children sleep medication just for your convenience during the flight. u003cstrongu003eMelatonin must not be given to children under 2 years oldu003c/strongu003e and for older children it must be explicitly approved by a doctor. In the pressurized cabin, children may react paradoxically to sedatives with hyperactivity, which only makes the situation worse.

Can a toddler carry their own backpack?

The reality is that a child’s excitement about their own backpack will evaporate after five minutes at the airport. If you’re flying on a basic fare with only a backpack, u003cstrongu003edon’t give your child a heavy bagu003c/strongu003e, because you’ll end up carrying it. Better to give them just a light toy and pack the rest in your own luggage.

How do I change my child on a plane when there’s so little space?

Changing tables on airplane toilets are extremely cramped. u003cstrongu003eChange your child right before boardingu003c/strongu003e while still in the terminal. If you must change during the flight, have a disposable changing mat with you. Always throw dirty diapers in the bin, never toss them in the toilet or you’ll clog it.

What headphones are best for children on a plane?

The key feature is a u003cstrongu003evolume limiteru003c/strongu003e, so your child doesn’t damage their hearing by turning up the volume too high in the noisy airplane environment. Choose headphones that have the option of a classic wired connection, as not all in-flight entertainment systems or children’s toys support modern wireless Bluetooth connectivity.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

How to Get to Svalbard, Norway: Flights, Documents & When to Go in 2026

You don’t need a visa to visit Svalbard, Norway, the site of the world’s northernmost scheduled flight. Thanks to a unique treaty from 1920, the archipelago is formally open to everyone, but without a valid passport and special insurance, the harsh Arctic will only reluctantly let you go any further. And yet you can reach this icy kingdom comfortably in a single day, flying via Oslo.

If you’re planning a trip to a place where polar bears outnumber people, you have to be ready for a completely specific set of rules. Svalbard (part of Norway) works entirely differently from the mainland. Ordinary European health insurance doesn’t apply here, you can’t leave town without a rifle, and the local supermarket won’t sell you a beer unless you show your plane ticket.

From flights to documents and insurance to alcohol quotas: these are the things that really make the difference when planning a trip to the end of the world. Including the strict new rules in force from 2025 and 2026, why April is the absolute winner, and why you’d better avoid November.

TL;DR

  • Flights: Only SAS and Norwegian fly to Longyearbyen (LYR), from Oslo or via Tromsø. The flight takes just under 3 hours.
  • Ticket prices: A return ticket from Oslo usually costs around €250–310; in summer and spring, book well in advance.
  • Documents: Svalbard is outside the Schengen Area. Even though an ID card technically suffices, the airlines and the Governor strongly recommend a passport.
  • Insurance: The European card (EHIC) is not valid here. You need commercial insurance that also covers search and rescue operations (SAR).
  • Best time for snow: March and April are ideal for snowmobile trips and ice cave visits.
  • Best time for cruises: July and August offer the midnight sun, open fjords and the best chance of spotting whales and walruses.
  • Safety rule: You must not leave the town of Longyearbyen without a firearm or an armed guide.
  • Buying alcohol: The archipelago is a duty-free zone with a rationing system. Tourists must present a boarding pass when buying alcohol.

10 Things You Must Know Before Visiting Svalbard, Norway

Planning a trip beyond the Arctic Circle calls for a slightly different approach than a regular European holiday. Let’s take a detailed look at the ten most important points that will determine the success of your Arctic expedition.

1. Svalbard, Norway flights and scheduled routes from Oslo

You can reach Svalbard lufthavn (code LYR) with just two airlines. These are the Norwegian carriers SAS and Norwegian, which keep up a reliable year-round service to the archipelago. During the peak summer season and the spring months, both airlines significantly increase frequency, so there can easily be seven flights a week from Oslo. The first morning planes take off from the Norwegian mainland before seven a.m., while the evening ones land in the Arctic after eight p.m.

The most common starting point is the Norwegian capital. The direct flight from Oslo takes just under three hours, and return tickets cost around €270–310 if you buy them early. SAS also operates very popular flights with a stopover in Tromsø in northern Norway. From that town above the Arctic Circle, the hop to Svalbard itself takes just a pleasant hour and a half.

If you’re flying in from major European hubs, you’ll always have to change planes at least once. I’d recommend booking your tickets with a huge head start, easily 330 days ahead, when the reservation systems open. Aircraft capacity to Longyearbyen is strictly limited, and in the spring months, when the snowmobile season peaks, the best dates tend to be hopelessly sold out.

2. Why you should always keep a “buffer” day

Arctic weather is unpredictable and can mercilessly wreck even the best-planned itineraries. Flights to Svalbard depend heavily on current visibility and wind strength. It’s not at all unusual for a plane from Oslo to make it all the way over Longyearbyen but be unable to land safely because of thick fog. After an hour of circling above the fjord, the pilot simply apologises and heads back to the mainland with all the passengers.

If you’re due to connect to an expensive expedition cruise on Svalbard or have a multi-day dog-sledding trip booked, never fly in at the very last minute. Travel forums are full of sad stories from people who missed their ship’s departure because of a delayed flight and lost thousands of euros as a result. The ideal strategy is to arrive in Longyearbyen a day or two early.

You can put this so-called buffer day to great use acclimatising to the freezing temperatures. Pop into the Svalbard Museum, where an entrance fee of 160 NOK (about €14) takes you through the whole history of the archipelago, from whalers to miners. You can also fill the time at the North Pole Expedition Museum, which charts the airship race to the North Pole. And if your luggage is delayed during a connection, you’ll at least have time to wait for the next flight, or buy warm clothes in the local shops.

3. Documents and the quirks of the Svalbard Treaty

Svalbard has an absolutely unique legal status in the world, stemming from an old international agreement. Under the so-called Svalbard Treaty of 1920, Norway requires no visa for entry to the archipelago, regardless of your nationality. You can even live and work here for an unlimited time, as long as you can support yourself and find your own accommodation.

But there’s one crucial catch that tourists often forget when planning their trip. Svalbard is not part of the Schengen Area or the European Economic Area. To get here, you have to go through a standard passport check when departing from Oslo or Tromsø, which formally means leaving the Schengen border. The same awaits you, of course, on the way back.

Although the Norwegian authorities theoretically accept national ID cards from EU countries, in practice a classic passport is strongly recommended everywhere. The airlines SAS and Norwegian often require it outright, and the local Governor warns against travelling on an ID card. With only an ID card you could run into completely needless problems handling emergencies, so definitely don’t leave your passport at home in a drawer.

4. Insurance and the tough new rules for 2026

The familiar blue European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) will, plainly put, be useless to you here. EU rules don’t apply to the archipelago at all, and the small local hospital in Longyearbyen deals only with acute cases. There’s no maternity ward, no complex surgery and no long-term care. Any more serious health problem requires immediate air transport to Tromsø on the Norwegian mainland, which without good insurance gets incredibly expensive.

Your travel insurance must also cover search and rescue operations, known by the acronym SAR. Arctic nature doesn’t forgive mistakes, and sending out a rescue helicopter to a remote fjord costs astronomical sums. If you go on an organised trip with a local certified agency, they usually arrange this special insurance as part of the trip price.

For independent travellers, though, strict new rules apply from January 2026. If you want to head outside the marked zone around town on your own, you have to report your plan to the Governor at least 4 weeks in advance. The application must include proof of a huge financial guarantee for a potential rescue operation. For the most common zone A, for example, you must prove coverage of 120,000 Norwegian kroner.

5. Longyearbyen airport and the transfer into town

The runway at Svalbard lufthavn is built on permafrost right on the shore of an icy fjord, and the descent over the snowy peaks alone is worth a window seat. The airport is genuinely small, efficient and sits just a few kilometres from the centre of town. Right by the baggage claim you’ll be greeted by the iconic stuffed polar bear, which is by far the most popular spot for your first holiday photos.

The easiest way to get to your hotel with your bags is to use the official airport bus, called the flybuss. It runs in reliable connection with every arrival and departure, and dutifully calls at all the main hotels and guesthouses in town. A one-way ticket costs about 100 NOK (around €9), but a return ticket, which is better value, will set you back 170 NOK (approx. €15). Note that you can only pay by card on the bus.

If you’re in a real hurry or travelling in a larger group of friends, you can happily use the local taxi service. The ride to the centre takes just five to ten minutes and costs roughly 150 to 250 NOK (about €13–22). Car rentals do exist here, but renting a car makes absolutely no sense. The entire road network is only a little over 40 kilometres long, and you won’t be able to drive beyond the town limits anyway.

6. Spring season: March and April as the absolute winner

So when is actually the best time to head to the far north? According to local guides, the absolute peak of the tourist season is unquestionably April. By this month there’s already plenty of daylight, but the landscape is still deeply frozen and covered in a thick layer of snow. It’s the absolutely ideal time for long, full-day snowmobile trips to Tempelfjorden and superb dog-sledding rides.

A very magical period is also the turn of February and March, when the sun returns after the long polar night. Right in Longyearbyen, the traditional Sun Festival (Solfest) is celebrated every year on 8 March, when the sun’s rays fall on the steps of the old hospital for the first time. During this period the sky turns pastel shades of blue and pink, which is exactly why photographers make the trip.

Bear in mind, though, that March is statistically the coldest month of the whole year. Daytime temperatures regularly drop to a freezing -20 to -30 °C, and the icy wind lowers the feels-like temperature even further. Early spring is also the best time to visit the stunning ice caves, which you reach either on foot or by a special snowcat.

7. The May trap and the summer cruise season

May is a very odd transitional period on Svalbard, one that travel forums often strongly warn about. The snow around town starts to melt slowly and turns into deep mud, but the sea fjords are still firmly frozen. Cruise ships therefore can’t reach the glacier fronts, while the snowmobile season is slowly ending because of the melting ice. If you come in early May, you risk not being able to do either summer or winter activities to the full.

The real polar summer breaks out fully in June and lasts until the end of August. From roughly 20 April to 23 August the phenomenon of the midnight sun rules here, meaning the sun never sets below the horizon at all. Summer temperatures most often hover between a pleasant 3 and 7 °C, occasionally climbing to ten degrees. For a good night’s sleep, definitely pack a quality eye mask, or you won’t drop off.

Summer is the main season for boat trips, trekking and wildlife watching. You can set off on a cruise to the abandoned Russian town of Pyramiden or look out for belugas by the glacier walls. Since 2025, however, very strict nature-protection rules apply here. Cruise ships may carry a maximum of 200 passengers, must keep a distance of 300 to 500 metres from polar bears, and flying drones is completely banned in the national parks.

lukas a lucka
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to stay in Svalbard
6 accommodations — wellness hotels, hotels and other accommodation options

8. The polar night and the myth of the northern lights

From mid-November to the end of January, the dark polar night reigns over the archipelago. The sun never appears above the horizon and even at true noon it’s pitch black outside. Travellers’ experiences are absolutely clear on this. November is probably the toughest and least welcoming month of the year to visit, because it’s very windy and there’s no snow for winter activities. If you really must go in winter, at least head to coal mine number 3 for a tour.

Many tourists fly here in winter dreaming of the perfect aurora, only to be disappointed. The truth is that Svalbard lies too far north for watching the aurora borealis. The main auroral belt is often located much further south, over northern Scandinavia. If your main goal is a dancing green sky, I’d recommend heading to Tromsø in Norway instead, where your chances of success are far greater.

Winter on Svalbard does, however, have one absolutely fascinating exception. During the deep polar night it’s so dark here that you can watch the northern lights even at true noon. Longyearbyen is in fact the only inhabited place on the planet where you can realistically experience this so-called daytime aurora. It’s more of a curiosity for enthusiasts, but if luck grants you a clear sky, you’ll see something truly unique.

9. What to pack for an Arctic expedition

The key to survival in the harsh Arctic is a well-thought-out clothing layering system. Whether you go in winter or summer, forget about one huge, shapeless jacket. Instead, opt for quality merino wool thermal underwear, an insulating fleece layer and a completely windproof outer shell. The wind is your biggest enemy here, and it can easily turn a normal -10 °C into a feels-like -25 °C within a few minutes.

In the summer months, be prepared for the fact that the Arctic tundra can be incredibly wet and full of treacherous mud. Quality waterproof hiking boots are an absolute must, because you’ll often be wading through shallow streams and soggy snow on your trips. Ordinary town trainers will soak right through within the first ten minutes of your walk.

A local quirk that tourists often aren’t ready for is the strict rule of taking your shoes off indoors. In Longyearbyen you must remove your shoes in hotels, museums, the library and the tourist info centre. It’s an old tradition from the mining days, to stop black coal dust being carried inside. So bring plenty of warm, clean socks, as you’ll be spending a lot of time in them.

10. The alcohol quota and booking months ahead

Shopping on Svalbard has its own very specific and often amusing rules. The whole archipelago is a duty-free zone, which in practice means that outdoor gear and electronics tend to be noticeably cheaper here than on the Norwegian mainland. Fresh food, however, has to be laboriously flown in, so you’ll pay a hefty premium for something as simple as apples or fresh milk. Cooking from the well-stocked local supermarket still pays off.

The biggest curiosity is unquestionably the sale of alcohol. In the local Svalbardbutikken supermarket you’ll find the Nordpolet department, where a strict rationing system applies. As a tourist, you have to present your plane boarding pass at the till, or they simply won’t sell you spirits or beer. Wine is thankfully exempt from these historic quotas, so you can buy it without restriction.

The last and perhaps most important piece of advice is to plan early. Popular glacier trips, walrus cruises and dog-sledding rides tend to sell out months in advance in high season. The capacity of certified guides is strictly limited and can’t be expanded in any way. From 2027, moreover, all guides will have to hold official state certification, which will limit places on trips even further.

Where to stay in Svalbard, Norway and rough prices (2026)

💡 Accommodation and experiences tip: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, where the cancellation terms tend to be best. Tickets, trips and activities are then worth comparing and buying through GetYourGuide.

Prices on Svalbard are high even by normal Norwegian standards, and accommodation, together with trips, is the biggest budget item. There’s no cheap Airbnb-style cabin here; you’ll mostly sleep in classic hotels or guesthouses. Where you choose to stay directly affects how much you’ll walk in the cold and wind, because the town is spread out along a long valley. Let’s look at some specific tips by budget.

If you’re after a more affordable option and don’t mind longer walks, head to the Nybyen district at the upper end of the valley. The cheapest beds are at the Gjestehuset 102 guesthouse, where a double room costs roughly €150 to €180 a night. The district is safe, but it’s about a thirty-minute walk into the centre full of restaurants. Right next door stands the popular three-star hotel Coal Miners’ Cabins, set in beautifully renovated former miners’ lodgings.

For those who want to stay right in the heart of the action, I recommend the Basecamp Hotel. It offers an absolutely wonderful trapper atmosphere full of driftwood and furs, so you’ll feel like you’re on a real polar expedition. Directly opposite stands the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel Spitsbergen, which holds the title of the world’s northernmost full-service hotel and offers amazing outdoor hot tubs with mountain views.

If you’re looking for luxury and top-notch dining, the clear choice is Funken Lodge. This boutique hotel sits slightly uphill above the town centre and offers first-class service. In bad weather you may appreciate that you don’t even have to go outside, because their hotel restaurant cooks absolutely fantastically and even offers great vegetarian menus.

A significant chunk of your budget will be swallowed by the compulsory organised trips, because you simply can’t get beyond the town limits without a paid guide carrying a rifle. Here’s a rough cost overview to give you an idea (reckon roughly €0.09 per 1 NOK):

  • Return flight from Oslo (SAS/Norwegian): 2,800 to 3,500 NOK (approx. €250–310)
  • One night in a mid-range hotel (for two): 1,500 to 2,500 NOK (approx. €130–220)
  • Airport bus (return): 170 NOK (approx. €15)
  • Full-day snowmobile trip: 3,500 to 4,500 NOK (approx. €310–400)
  • Boat cruise to a glacier or Pyramiden: 2,300 to 2,900 NOK (approx. €200–260)
  • Ice cave visit: 1,300 NOK (approx. €115)
  • Main course in a regular restaurant: 250 to 400 NOK (approx. €22–35)
  • Beer in a restaurant / in the shop (tax-free): 130 NOK / from 17 NOK (approx. €11 / €1.50)

For a short four-day stay I’d recommend setting aside roughly €1,700 to €2,100 per person (including flights, accommodation and at least two proper trips). If you want to save, the well-stocked local Svalbardbutikken supermarket lets you cook your own meals, and you can then invest the money you save into better experiences out in the field.

Where to next

If the Arctic north tempts you, I’ve prepared more guides to help with your planning. Read about everything you can see and do in Svalbard, or dive into the details of the capital itself in the article Longyearbyen: what to see.

For those considering a route by water, I recommend the detailed overview Trips and cruises in Svalbard. If you’re more interested in the northern lights, find out why it’s better to head to the mainland to Tromsø: the gateway to the northern lights. And for a general overview of the Scandinavian climate, take a look at the article When to visit Norway: Norwegian weather.

Frequently asked questions

Here are the answers to the questions almost everyone asks before a trip to Svalbard.

Do I need a visa to travel to Svalbard?

You don’t. Thanks to the Svalbard Treaty of 1920, citizens of all signatory states can travel here without a visa, and the treaty has been in force for many countries since the early years. However, you must go through passport control when departing from mainland Norway, as Svalbard is not part of the Schengen Area.

Is an ID card sufficient, or do I need a passport?

Formally, EU citizens can travel with an ID card, but airlines and the Governor of Svalbard strongly recommend carrying a valid passport. Without one, you could face serious problems in case of emergencies, as the islands lie outside the European Economic Area.

Is the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) valid in Svalbard?

It’s not. The archipelago does not belong to the European Economic Area at all, and the local hospital only handles the most essential cases. You must therefore arrange comprehensive commercial travel insurance that also covers search and rescue operations.

How long is the flight and how much does a ticket cost?

A direct flight from Oslo takes just under 3 hours, and from Tromsø you’ll arrive in as little as an hour and a half. A round-trip ticket from Oslo typically ranges from €240 to €300, depending on the season and how far in advance you book. In summer, flights operate up to seven times a week.

When is it darkest and coldest in Svalbard?

The deepest darkness occurs from mid-November to the end of January, when the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon at all (polar night). Surprisingly, the coldest month is statistically March, when daytime temperatures commonly drop to extreme -20 to -30 °C.

When is the best time to go for the Northern Lights?

Although the polar night in Svalbard is perfectly dark, the archipelago is already too far north for reliable aurora borealis viewing. You’ll have a much better chance of seeing a spectacular light show on mainland Norway in Tromsø, which lies directly beneath the auroral oval.

When is the best time for polar bear spotting?

Your best chance is during the summer months (July and August) on expedition cruises around the archipelago. Remember, however, that bears are wild animals, must not be actively sought out, and since 2025 boats must strictly maintain a minimum distance of 300 to 500 meters.

How far in advance do I need to book hotels and tours?

Ideally several months ahead. The spring season (March and April) and peak summer (July) in Longyearbyen sell out incredibly far in advance. Guide capacity for snowmobile tours or boat trips is very limited and cannot be expanded.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Northern Lights in Sweden 2026: 14 Things You Must Know

In photos, the northern lights in Sweden glow in neon green, but to the naked eye they often look like a greyish veil — and yet it’s an experience you’ll never forget for the rest of your life. Many people think all it takes is to buy a plane ticket to Sweden, stand out in the December frost, and the sky will instantly light up in every colour. The reality of the Arctic north is, however, far more complicated and requires careful planning.

If you’re thinking about a trip to see this celestial show, I have to warn you right away about one crucial thing: the weather and solar activity simply can’t be ordered for a specific hour. You can, however, hugely boost your chances of success with the right timing and a smart choice of location. So I’ve put together everything you should know before you buy that plane ticket — so you don’t end up like those who fly in for a single night and leave disappointed. You’ll learn why it’s far more important to watch the cloud cover than the KP index itself, and why you should avoid the depths of winter.

TL;DR

  • The golden rule of three to four nights: Never plan a trip for just one night, because cloud cover in the north changes incredibly fast and you need enough of a time buffer.
  • February and March are best: While December tends to be extremely dark and freezing, late winter offers far longer days for activities and still plenty of darkness for evening aurora watching.
  • Abisko is a safe bet: Thanks to the rain shadow of the surrounding mountains, the local lake sits under a so-called blue hole, which delivers statistically the highest share of clear nights in all of Scandinavia.
  • Clouds matter more than the KP index: Above the Arctic Circle, even very weak solar activity is enough for an unforgettable show, as long as you have a perfectly clear sky with no snowfall overhead.
  • Doing it yourself on a budget: A carefully planned week-long trip will cost you roughly €1,000 per person, while organised package tours from travel agencies commonly start at over €3,000.
  • The solar cycle favours travellers: The peak of solar activity occurred around the turn of 2024 and 2025, but the years in the declining phase of the cycle around 2026 bring absolutely excellent conditions, according to astronomers.
  • Don’t expect neon green: Weaker aurora often appears to the naked eye as a greyish misty cloud, and the truly vivid colours are only captured by the lens of your camera or a good smartphone.

14 Things You Must Know

The Arctic can be unpredictable, but when you know what to prepare for, hunting the northern lights becomes an adventure you’ll remember for a lifetime. There are plenty of myths floating around online, and the reality of the harsh north can catch unprepared travellers off guard rather unpleasantly.

That’s why I’ve gathered from all the available information and travellers’ experiences the most important tips that will save you both disappointment and wasted money. We’ll go through everything from ideal timing to what to wear, because freezing in the middle of the forest with a dead phone is really not what you want 😉. Let’s dive in!

1. What the northern lights actually are and why they glow in colours

This celestial light show forms the moment the solar wind, full of charged particles, hits the Earth’s magnetic field. These particles are then drawn towards our planet’s magnetic poles, where they collide with gas molecules high up in the atmosphere. It’s precisely these collisions that release energy in the form of photons, which the human eye perceives as the fascinating dancing light in the night sky. The stronger the stream of these particles, the brighter and more expansive the show that plays out above your head.

The Sun also has its eleven-year activity cycle, whose recent peak around the turn of 2024 and 2025 delivered absolutely fantastic conditions. During this period the Sun forms so-called coronal holes, which send a very stable and strong solar wind towards Earth. Your chances of a spectacular show above the Arctic Circle therefore remain excellent in the coming years too, and you definitely won’t be arriving too late to the party.

The colour of the aurora depends on which gas the solar particles collide with and at what altitude. The most common and best-known green colour comes from a reaction with oxygen at lower altitudes of roughly a hundred to a hundred and fifty kilometres above the surface. If, however, the charged particles collide with oxygen at extreme altitudes above two hundred kilometres, the whole sky turns rare shades of deep red. Stunning purple or blue, on the other hand, appears in moments when there’s a collision with nitrogen molecules.

But get ready for one fundamental difference between reality and the photos on social media. Weaker aurora often appears to the naked human eye merely as a greyish or slightly greenish misty cloud that ripples oddly. Only when you point a camera lens at it does the sensor gather more light and reveal that vivid neon green.

💡 Tip: If you see purple edges beneath the green bands in the sky, it means the solar wind has penetrated very deep into our atmosphere and you’re witnessing an exceptionally strong geomagnetic storm.

2. When the high season is and why December isn’t the best idea

The aurora-watching season in Swedish Lapland lasts quite a long time, usually starting in late August and ending in the first days of April. Most people automatically associate aurora hunting with the Christmas holidays, snowdrifts and deep December frosts. The reality in the far north, however, shows that December and January are among the most challenging months for easygoing travel, because the landscape is gripped by the uncompromising polar night (in Swedish, polarnatt).

In Kiruna, for example, the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon at all from the beginning of December to mid-January, and you’ll only get a few hours of bluish twilight around midday. This period also comes with temperatures commonly dropping to minus thirty degrees. In such extreme cold, operators often decide to cancel daytime dog-sledding runs, because breathing in the icy air during physical exertion endangers the safety of both the animals and the tourists themselves. December also statistically brings very frequent cloud cover combined with heavy snowfall.

If you’re after the secret tip of experienced travellers and want to avoid both the crowds and the brutal frosts, head north as early as September or October. During this autumn period the lakes aren’t frozen yet, so the dancing green bands are beautifully mirrored on the calm water surface, creating utterly dreamy compositions for photographers. Nature is also playing in gorgeous autumn colours and the trees aren’t yet bent under the weight of snow.

Another huge advantage of the autumn months is thermal comfort. Temperatures often stay above zero or only slightly below, so you don’t need extreme and expensive Arctic gear. You can happily set out in a good autumn jacket and light hiking boots, which dramatically lowers the initial outlay. The annoying summer mosquitoes, which can really spoil a stay in the Lapland wilderness during July and August, have reliably vanished by September. You get the perfect compromise between bearable weather and dark nights ideal for aurora hunting.

3. Why February and March are the absolute winners of the whole year

Ask anyone who’s been to Lapland more than once and they’ll tell you the same thing: late February and all of March are simply the best possible combination. The days start getting longer very quickly during this period, so you’ll enjoy plenty of daylight for cross-country skiing, snowmobiling or trips to explore Sami culture. The frosts aren’t as brutal as in deep January anymore, and the landscape stays beautifully buried under huge layers of sparkling snow.

March also hides one huge astronomical trump card, closely tied to the spring equinox. During this period the Earth’s magnetic field sits at an ideal angle to the incoming solar wind, which historically leads to the strongest geomagnetic storms of the entire year. At night you still have enough deep darkness for perfect aurora watching, and during the day you soak up the vitamin D you need from the sun, which reliably keeps you from the typical fatigue and depression of the long polar night.

When planning a February trip, though, you have to watch out for one specific local phenomenon. Swedish children have their so-called sportlov (spring break) during this period, which shifts across regions over the course of several weeks. Swedes head to the mountains en masse for skiing and winter fun at this time, which means enormous pressure on accommodation capacity. Hotels and cabins fill up at an unbelievable pace and prices often climb to seasonal highs.

So if you’re considering a trip around the turn of February and March, you have to sort out your bookings several months in advance. Especially famous spots like Abisko National Park or the ice hotel in Jukkasjärvi report being fully booked even six months ahead. But the reward for planning early will be the absolute best conditions the Arctic north can offer, and experiences bathed in afternoon sun.

4. The golden rule of three to four nights for a good night’s sleep

The most painful mistake tourists make is planning their Arctic adventure for a single weekend and relying on one free night. The weather above the Arctic Circle changes with incredible speed and can throw an opaque blanket of clouds at you precisely at the moment the app reports the highest solar activity. If you arrive for a single night and the sky clouds over, you’ll head home with a broken heart and an empty wallet.

Travel forums are full of complaints about commercial agencies that run paid evening aurora trips. Most of these companies have a strict no-refund clause for bad weather in their terms. Sure, the guides will drive you out into the wilderness and grill you a sausage over a fire, but if it snows heavily all night, your money vanishes irretrievably without the result you longed for. Relying on a single night is simply too big a gamble in the Arctic.

Experienced aurora hunters therefore always follow the so-called three-to-four-night rule, which gives you the time buffer you need in case of unexpected snowstorms. Over four days in one place, the statistical probability of a clear sky increases radically, especially if you cleverly pick a location with a stable microclimate. Even if the first two days rain or snow away, the sky usually breaks open on the third night and you’ll finally get your long-awaited reward.

This time cushion also lets you spread out your daytime activities far more sensibly. Aurora hunting means standing outside in the frost often until two or three in the morning. If you had to get up early the very next morning for demanding dog-sledding, you’d be completely exhausted. More nights give you room to sleep in through the morning and enjoy the Arctic scenery calmly, without the constant stress of the clock ticking.

5. Abisko and the magical phenomenon of the blue hole

Abisko National Park and the little village of the same name, lying on the shore of the huge frozen Lake Torneträsk, are considered the absolute holy grail for aurora hunters. This place offers no big shopping centres, no expensive restaurants and no busy streets full of bars, but it hides a huge meteorological advantage in the form of a unique microclimate. Thanks to the specific rain shadow of the surrounding mountains, the clouds often break directly over the lake, even in moments when the rest of Swedish Lapland is desperately reporting heavy snowfall.

This phenomenon became famous under the name the blue hole, and agencies of course make heavy use of it in their marketing — they claim Abisko has up to seventy percent clear nights in winter, which sounds almost too good to be true. Meteorological data, however, really does confirm that Abisko offers the highest share of clear nights in all of Scandinavia. That’s exactly why professional photographers from all over the world head here, knowing full well that a perfectly clear sky is absolutely key to the final result.

A huge advantage of Abisko is also its remoteness from the light pollution of big cities. If you stay at the main tourist complex, STF Abisko Turiststation, you don’t have to pay for expensive guided night trips at all. You just need to dress well and walk about five hundred metres from the lit-up buildings straight onto the frozen surface of Lake Torneträsk, where you’ll find complete darkness and a perfect view of the entire northern sky.

Patience is absolutely key here. The best time window for watching usually falls around two hours before and after local midnight, but the aurora can just as easily surprise you at seven in the evening. If you want to maximise your chances and don’t want to spend a fortune chasing clear skies in vans, Abisko should be your main base for the night part of the whole trip.

6. The Aurora Sky Station on Mount Nuolja and its real value

Right in the heart of Abisko National Park you’ll find one of the world’s most famous observatories dedicated to aurora watching, which bears the proud name Aurora Sky Station. It sits high on Mount Nuolja and is run by the Swedish Tourist Association STF. An older but reliable chairlift takes you up to it, opening up an incredible view beneath you in the frosty night. At the top you find yourself in absolute darkness without any light pollution, creating perfect conditions for photographing the famous mountain profile of Lapporten (the Lapland Gate).

For this exclusive experience, though, the Swedish operators charge very handsomely. Special evening tickets (Night Visit) commonly cost around 750 to 900 SEK, which is roughly €67 to €82 depending on the specific season. Given the high price and the uncertainty of the weather, many travellers swear by a smarter strategy of going up the mountain on the much cheaper lift during the day. A day ticket costs about 220 SEK and offers you absolutely phenomenal views into the sun-drenched valley.

In the evening you can then watch the aurora completely free directly from the frozen Lake Torneträsk lying below the mountain. The experience from the lake is reportedly no less magical, you can invest the money you save into a good dinner at a local restaurant, and above all you avoid the brutal cold. Waiting on the mountain at night means being constantly exposed to the icy wind with no chance of quickly sheltering in a warm room.

💡 Tip: If you do decide on the evening lift ride for the aurora, put on at least two extra insulating layers compared to your usual outfit. A twenty-minute journey on a completely open chairlift at minus twenty degrees can chill a person very quickly and dangerously.

7. Kiruna as a base: pros, cons and light pollution

The city of Kiruna serves the vast majority of travellers as the ideal gateway to the far north, since it has an international airport and is the end point of the popular night trains from Stockholm. In itself it’s a huge global curiosity, because due to the expansion of the giant underground iron ore mine of the LKAB company, its entire centre is gradually being relocated about three kilometres away. In August 2025 the world watched with bated breath the operation in which workers moved an entire — and beautiful — wooden church weighing 672 tonnes along a special route.

During the day you’ll find an enormous number of operators offering dog-sledding, snowmobile trips and authentic encounters with Sami culture. You can even descend hundreds of metres underground for a tour of the mine itself. For aurora hunting, however, Kiruna has one absolutely fundamental problem, namely the ever-present and fairly strong light pollution from the giant mining pit, street lamps and industrial areas.

If you stay right in the city centre, you won’t see weaker aurora through the veil of light at all. You’ll have to head out into the wilderness for a dark sky every single time. That costs you either considerable money for organised trips with agencies, or requires renting your own car and the courage to drive on icy roads. Paying over €40 every evening for a lift into the dark adds up hugely over a week-long holiday.

The ideal compromise and winning strategy therefore lies in combining both main locations. Devote the first days to daytime activities in Kiruna, ride a husky-drawn sled and visit the ice hotel. For the actual night aurora watching, you then move by train a hundred kilometres further west to dark Abisko, where the darkness is really just a few steps from your bed.

8. Other great spots: Jukkasjärvi, Jokkmokk and Luleå

If you’re looking for alternatives to the best-known locations, Swedish Lapland offers several other fascinating destinations. A short drive from Kiruna lies the famous village of Jukkasjärvi, which boasts the celebrated ice hotel (Icehotel). Its tradition dates back to 1989 and every winter it’s built anew from blocks of ice harvested from the River Torne. For the 2026/2027 season, the opening of Icehotel 37 is planned for 11 December. The frozen river itself serves as an endless natural grandstand for watching the night sky, and the darkness here is much deeper than in Kiruna itself.

A night in an ice room at a temperature of minus five degrees costs about 6,000 SEK (approx. €545). Experienced travellers therefore recommend the smarter option: pay only for a day ticket at 325 SEK (roughly €30), admire the beautiful ice sculptures, and in the evening drive off to sleep in a cheaper — and above all heated — guesthouse.

A big draw for culture-loving travellers is the small town of Jokkmokk, which comes alive above all at the start of February during its legendary winter market with a tradition of more than four hundred years. Around thirty thousand visitors descend on the settlement. Sami people sell traditional handicrafts (duodji) here, and you can watch the preparation of suovas, smoked reindeer meat cooked over a fire and served in flatbreads. The atmosphere is absolutely electrifying.

A completely different, adrenaline-fuelled experience is offered by the coastal town of Luleå in the north of the Gulf of Bothnia. When the sea freezes enough in February, road workers mark out official ice roads (isvägar) on it. You can rent a car and go for a drive directly on the frozen Baltic Sea, a feeling that’s guaranteed to send a shiver down your spine and one you’ll never forget.

9. Can you see the aurora in southern Sweden and Stockholm, and during which storms?

The northern lights occasionally become a viral hit even in much more southerly Swedish regions, and enthusiastic photos from around Stockholm or Gothenburg regularly fill social media. The truth, however, is that to see the aurora in the south of the country you need an exceptionally strong geomagnetic storm, reaching values of at least KP 6 or higher. Displays this strong appear only a few times a year and often last only a few dozen minutes.

You definitely can’t rely on them in any way when planning an ordinary holiday. If you go to Stockholm for a long weekend hoping you might see the northern lights, you’ll probably leave disappointed. Another huge obstacle in southern Sweden is the massive light pollution from densely populated areas and the E4 motorway, which reliably wipes weaker aurora clean off the night sky.

If you do happen to find yourself in the capital during a reported extremely strong solar storm, you can’t stay standing in the centre by the royal palace. You have to drive far beyond the city limits into the deep forests or to darkened lakes to have any chance of success at all. The aurora will also always be low above the northern horizon, never dancing directly overhead as it does in Lapland.

For a guaranteed and truly intense experience there simply is no other reliable path than to head high above the Arctic Circle. There the show plays out in the sky almost every clear-sky evening, and even weak solar activity can conjure up incredible patterns that will take your breath away.

10. Why the cloud forecast matters far more than the KP index

Among beginner aurora hunters there’s one huge misconception, where everyone constantly watches mobile apps showing the value of the so-called KP index on a scale from zero to nine. They feel that if the app reports a value below level three, there’s no point at all going out into the freezing night. In northern Sweden this is complete nonsense, because you’re standing directly beneath the auroral oval.

In areas located high above the Arctic Circle, such as Abisko or Kiruna, even a very weak KP index of 1 or 2 is enough for a gorgeous celestial show. Solar particles fall into these latitudes constantly and form a stable green ring. So if the app reports weak solar activity, it doesn’t mean at all that you should hide under the duvet and give up.

Your arch-enemy is in fact not weak solar activity, but plain old clouds and snowfall, which can reliably ruin even the strongest solar storm of the decade. Experienced photographers therefore treat the KP index value as only a rough guide and much more study the local meteorological models and cloud radar imagery, so they know exactly where the sky will clear at night.

If you find a spot with perfect star visibility, you’ve won half the battle. Then all you need to do is dress warmly, arm yourself with patience and wait in complete darkness. The green glow will most likely appear sooner or later and round off your evening to absolute perfection. Clouds are simply the only real spoilsport of the whole experience.

11. Apps and websites that are really worth following

These days you can hardly manage aurora hunting without good data on your phone, and the right apps will save you a lot of pointless freezing outside. The gold standard among travellers is the globally popular app called My Aurora Forecast. It offers clear notifications, a percentage probability of visibility in your location and a very useful visual map of the auroral oval, on which you can see exactly how far the green ring currently reaches.

For a deeper understanding of solar activity and accurate raw data from satellites, the detailed website SpaceWeatherLive is a fantastic fit, regularly followed rather by advanced astronomy enthusiasts and photographers. Here you’ll find real data on the density and speed of the solar wind in real time. Global apps, however, often can’t react fast enough to local weather fluctuations, which is a fatal problem in the mountains.

The most important secret for a successful hunt, however, lies in local Swedish data. Definitely download the official app of the Swedish Meteorological Institute SMHI to your phone; it has the absolute most accurate local cloud-cover models. It can predict even very small gaps in the clouds over specific lakes and valleys within a radius of a few dozen kilometres.

The combination of solar-activity alerts from global apps and precise knowledge of cloud movement from the Swedish radar will make you a master of planning. When watching the SMHI map, always look for dark spots without precipitation and cloud cover, and steer your evening steps or your car’s route exactly there.

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12. How to photograph the aurora even on an ordinary phone

Photographing the northern lights once required expensive DSLRs and a great deal of aperture know-how, but today’s modern phones can work miracles thanks to smart algorithms. The basic and absolutely essential rule, though, is total stability of the device, because you’ll simply never get a sharp photo in night mode handheld. Even the tiniest shake of the hand turns the stars and the aurora into one big blurry smudge.

If you don’t want to invest in a classic large tripod, at least get a small pocket tripod with flexible legs. As a last resort, prepare a sturdy backpack or a rock outside to safely prop the phone against and secure it against slipping. In the camera settings, always turn on night mode and manually extend the exposure time to three to ten seconds depending on how quickly the aurora moves across the sky.

The biggest trap of the Arctic cold is that it can drain your phone battery from full to zero in twenty minutes, so always carry it in an inner jacket pocket close to your body and only pull it out just before pressing the shutter.

A good, fully charged power bank should be a mandatory part of your kit on every night hunt. Ideally keep it connected to your phone by cable and tucked away under a warm layer of clothing the whole time, ensuring you don’t run out of juice at the most important moment.

13. Organised tours versus your own rental car

The decision of whether to pay a small fortune for an organised tour or rent a car and set out on your own troubles just about every traveller on a limited budget. Paid trips commonly cost from €80 to €140 per person and you can book them in advance through the GetYourGuide portal. They have the huge advantage that local guides know the region’s microclimate perfectly and will often drive you a hundred kilometres in a van just to find a patch of clear sky where the clouds break.

On the other hand, they charge extremely well for this service and most companies apply an uncompromising no-refund policy. Even if you see absolutely nothing because of heavy snowfall and the guide just grills you a sausage in the forest, they won’t give you a cent back. Renting a car in Kiruna gives you absolute freedom and saves money with more people, but it requires considerable driving experience and enormous respect for winter conditions. If you long for that freedom, I definitely recommend checking out the RentalCars comparison site.

Swedish rental cars come with top-notch studded winter tyres (allowed from October to mid-April), which grip into the ice perfectly. But you have to get used to the fact that roads in the north aren’t salted at all — they’re only ploughed and you drive exclusively on packed white snow and ice, which dramatically lengthens your braking distance.

The biggest danger, moreover, isn’t skidding but the ever-present reindeer. The animals like to gather by the ploughed roads at night to lick up any salt, and in the dark they blend in completely with the surrounding forest. If you’re driving in the dark, you have to be constantly alert and not exceed the speed limits, otherwise you risk a fatal collision.

14. How to dress properly for several hours in the cold

Waiting for the northern lights is a real test for your body. You stand for long hours at night, almost motionless, in extreme frosts that bite deep into your bones. The usual daytime temperature in the north in winter ranges between minus fifteen and minus thirty degrees. Forget jeans or ordinary cotton — cotton soaks up your sweat, doesn’t wick it away, and then chills you fatally, risking a serious health problem.

The alpha and omega of Arctic dressing is cleverly thought-out layering. The base absolutely must be good merino wool thermal underwear (a long-sleeved top and long johns), which keeps you warm even when you sweat slightly while walking. On top of this base layer should come a thick fleece hoodie or a proper coarse wool sweater to trap heat close to the body.

A massive down jacket serves as the main insulation. Finally you have to cover everything with a windproof and waterproof shell in the form of trousers and a jacket that will reliably protect you from the icy wind. Wind can drop the perceived temperature by dozens of degrees. Don’t forget to bring a neck gaiter and a proper winter hat.

The critical points are always the extremities. The ideal strategy is to take two pairs of gloves. Thin fingered gloves underneath will help you when adjusting the camera, while thick mittens on top will keep your fingers safe for the rest of the evening. The good news is that most operators will lend you heavy Arctic overalls and massive snow boots free of charge for the paid activities (dog-sledding or snowmobiling), so you don’t have to bring the most extreme gear from home.

How to photograph the northern lights

Shooting on a phone is great for quick snapshots, but if you want to bring home truly professional images with deep colours and a perfectly sharp landscape, you’ll need a classic DSLR or mirrorless camera with full manual settings. The foundation of success is a wide-angle lens with the best possible light-gathering ability, ideally with an aperture of f/2.8 or even lower, so the sensor picks up as much of the precious light as possible in the Arctic darkness.

First and foremost, you have to switch focus to manual and focus on infinity, because autofocus simply can’t cope with stars in the dark. The easiest trick is to find the brightest point in the sky on the display, focus on it manually, and leave the lens ring in that position for the rest of the night. Set the ISO according to the lens speed at roughly between 1600 and 3200. You’ll have to experiment a bit with the exposure time — if the aurora moves across the sky very quickly, choose a shorter time of around three to five seconds so the green bands don’t blur into one solid smudge. If the aurora is weak and static, you can happily extend the time to ten or fifteen seconds.

A sturdy tripod is an absolute necessity, as is a remote shutter release, because even just pressing the button on the camera body will uncompromisingly blur the whole photo. If you don’t have a remote release, at least set a two-second self-timer. Also don’t forget to turn off image stabilisation on the lens, which does more harm than good on a tripod.

A huge challenge is the cold, which drains energy at lightning speed. The camera battery will last only a fraction of the usual time at minus twenty degrees, so bring at least two or three spares and carry them the whole time in an inner jacket pocket close to your body to keep them warm.

💡 Tip: When composing your shot, don’t get carried away by the green sky alone. The photo gains much greater depth and scale if you work a piece of snowy landscape into the foreground — trees, a little wooden cabin or the silhouette of a person with a headlamp.

Where to stay for the best chance

💡 Accommodation and experiences tip: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. Tickets, tours and activities are then worth comparing and buying through GetYourGuide.

Where you sleep in Lapland is definitely not a trivial matter — the ideal accommodation will save you not only money on night taxis, but also your nerves and a few frostbitten fingers. I’ve picked out the best proven options in various price categories for you, all located strategically far from the light pollution of the big mining towns.

If you want to bet on an absolute sure thing in the form of the famous cloud-free blue hole, stay right in Abisko National Park. The absolute legend here is the STF Abisko Turiststation complex, which offers classic warm rooms as well as much cheaper beds in shared tourist cabins. From here it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the dark Lake Torneträsk, and the price for a double room is around 1,500 SEK (roughly €135) per night. A great, more intimate alternative in the same area is Abisko Guesthouse, where a night costs about 1,200 SEK (approx. €110). The owners are incredibly helpful, happy to lend you warm clothing for the cold, and there’s often a fire burning in the yard to warm up during the night wait for a green sky.

If you prefer the area around Kiruna for daytime activities with dogs and snowmobiles, try the more luxurious Camp Ripan near the town centre. The resort boasts a fantastic outdoor wellness area with heated pools and a proper restaurant. The northern lights can be watched very comfortably from here — you just head to the edge of the camp out of reach of the street lamps — and you can expect a price of around 2,000 SEK (approx. €180) per night. A true hidden gem for lovers of absolute silence is then Aurora Camp Kurravaara, lying about fifteen kilometres beyond Kiruna right on the bank of the River Torne. You’re completely cut off from the light pollution of the mines and can watch the aurora straight from the terrace of your wooden cabin or from the glass-walled sauna for roughly 1,800 SEK (approx. €165) per night.

A chapter all of its own is then the world-famous Icehotel in the village of Jukkasjärvi, where you can spend the night in a room carved from river ice at a temperature of minus five degrees. A night in an ice room (a so-called cold room) starts at roughly 6,000 SEK (approx. €545). Experienced travellers, however, strongly recommend spending just a single night in the ice for the unique experience and enjoying the rest of the stay in the classic heated rooms that this enormous Arctic complex also offers, because sleeping in a sleeping bag in the freezing cold will exhaust you rather than let your body rest.

Where to eat in Swedish Lapland

Lapland isn’t a culinary destination full of Michelin stars, but you’ll eat honestly and heartily here, which you’ll appreciate twice over in the cold. Bear in mind that restaurants here are among the most expensive in Sweden: a main course costs 200 to 350 SEK (€18 to €32), while the lunchtime dagens lunch can be had for 120 to 150 SEK (€11 to €14) including a salad buffet and coffee.

The staples of the local menu are reindeer and moose meat, fish from the cold lakes, and forest berries, especially cloudberry (hjortron). Vegetarians won’t leave hungry, though: almost every place has a meat-free version of the daily menu, soups, and in the cafés the classic fika awaits.

Kiruna and its hidden treasures

In the centre of Kiruna there’s Stejk Street Food, a stall with seating in a heated tipi with an open fire in the middle. Locals come here for reindeer kebabs and pulled-moose sandwiches, but meat-free versions and hot drinks are available too. The atmosphere of the tipi is exactly what you need after a day on the snowmobiles.

A more formal dinner is offered by the restaurant at the Camp Ripan resort, which builds on local ingredients and traditional Swedish cuisine in a modern take. Besides Arctic specialities, the menu also features seasonal vegetarian options. In high season, reserve a table in advance — it tends to get full.

For coffee and something sweet, the best spot is Café Safari in the centre, the heart of local social life, where a coffee with a giant cinnamon bun costs around 80 SEK (€7).

Abisko and Jukkasjärvi

In Abisko National Park the dining options are understandably more limited, but Brasserie Fjällköket right at Abisko Mountain Lodge is an absolute safe bet. The menu here changes depending on what fresh ingredients the chef manages to get hold of, and there’s a very cosy, family-run atmosphere. After hours of freezing outside by the lake, their honest hot soups and meatballs with lingonberries will guaranteed bring you back to life.

And when you head out to tour the ice hotel in Jukkasjärvi, treat yourself at the local Icehotel Restaurant. It tends to be noticeably pricier, but the tasting menu served partly on blocks of crystal-clear ice from the River Torne is a gastronomic experience that simply has no equal. Trust me, a hearty reindeer stew somehow tastes better in the immediate vicinity of the Arctic Circle.

Practical summary and rough prices for 2026

To make planning your Arctic adventure easier and to spare you nasty surprises when you look at your bank statement, I’ve put together an overview of the most important cost items. The Nordic countries aren’t cheap, but with smart planning the expenses can be kept at a reasonable level. The Swedish krona (SEK) sits at roughly €0.09, so keep that in mind when converting local prices.

  • Air travel: Return flights with major carriers such as SAS or Lufthansa via Stockholm to Kiruna can be found in the range of €150 to €250, if you’re lucky with deals on search engines like Kiwi and book well in advance. Direct flights to Kiruna are rare, so count on a connection at Arlanda airport.
  • Night train (Arctic Circle Train): If you choose the romantic and eco-friendly train journey with SJ or Vy from Stockholm to the north (the journey takes 15 to 18 hours), you’ll pay approximately from 475 SEK (€43) for an ordinary seat and from 835 SEK (€76) for a more comfortable berth. I recommend buying tickets as soon as they’re released for sale, because berths in the winter season disappear at lightning speed. Watch out for possible closures on the Malmbanan line, where delays occasionally occur due to freight trains carrying iron ore.
  • Groceries from an ordinary supermarket: Buying basic food for several days will cost roughly €40 to €60 per person. Sweden is generally more expensive, but cooking from your own supplies in your rented cabin will lighten the budget enormously.
  • Dinner in a restaurant: An ordinary main course in an average restaurant in Kiruna starts at 200 SEK (€18), a beer costs 70 to 90 SEK (€6 to €8).
  • Day entry to the Icehotel: If you don’t want to sleep in the ice and risk frostbite, you’ll pay 325 SEK (€30) for a day tour of the beautiful ice sculptures for an adult and 39 SEK for a child.
  • Paid organised tours: A dog-sledding run (husky safari) or a full-evening aurora hunt in a guided van will cost you from €80 to €140 per person.

Where to go next

If this Arctic guide has whetted your appetite and you want to get stuck into further planning, definitely don’t miss our other articles about Sweden and the northern lights, where you’ll find plenty of detailed information.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best chance to see the northern lights?

Statistically, the absolutely best conditions occur in late February and throughout March. The days are already starting to get longer, so you’ll have time for plenty of daytime activities in the sunshine, and the frost isn’t as extreme as during the deep polar night. The spring equinox also historically brings very strong geomagnetic storms according to astronomers, so the chances of a brilliant green sky are enormous. If you can only choose one specific week, aim for the period around the spring equinox. That’s when the entire solar and terrestrial mechanics align at the absolutely ideal angle and the probability of powerful experiences is statistically the highest.

How many nights should you allow for viewing?

Never plan a trip to the north for just a single night—that’s a huge risk. Experienced aurora hunters always follow the golden rule of three to four nights spent in one location. Weather in the Arctic changes incredibly quickly, and this cushion gives you an enormous statistical advantage against rapidly changing cloud cover or unexpected snowstorms. Lots of travelers think that when the app predicts strong activity, they’ve got it made. But if heavy clouds roll in overhead, even the strongest geomagnetic storm won’t help you, which is why having a time buffer in the mountains is so incredibly important.

Can you see the aurora with the naked eye?

Yes, you can observe it without any problem, but be prepared that weaker auroras often appear to the human eye as just a greyish or slightly greenish hazy cloud. Those saturated neon colors you know so well from photos on social media will only be visible to the naked eye when Earth is hit by a really very strong solar storm. So don’t be discouraged by initial disappointment when you only see that strange grey streak in the sky. Once your eyes properly adjust to the darkness and the solar wind picks up strength, the aurora will suddenly start dancing and those dreamed-of colors may reveal themselves for a brief moment even without using a camera.

How do you photograph the northern lights with a phone?

The absolute key to success is perfect device stability—you simply can’t get a sharp photo handheld. Use a tripod or prop your phone against something, activate night mode, and manually extend the exposure to about three to ten seconds. Don’t forget to keep your phone hidden close to your body in the warmth most of the time, so the battery doesn’t die in a few minutes in the brutal Arctic cold. Today’s smartphones have excellent night modes that can capture plenty of light, but they require absolute stillness from you. It’s also ideal to set the automatic timer to at least two seconds so you don’t shake the phone when tapping the screen.

Is a paid aurora tour worth it?

It really depends on your base location. If you’re staying right in Kiruna, which is full of strong light pollution from mines and street lamps, a trip with a professional guide into the dark wilderness definitely makes sense. But if you’re sleeping in Abisko National Park, you don’t really need a paid tour because you can just walk a few hundred meters to the frozen lake completely free. If you do decide on a tour, though, carefully choose verified operators. Local experts know very well which lake or valley to head to in order to find a break in the clouds even when the rest of the region is desperately reporting heavy snowfall.

Where in Sweden is the highest probability?

The absolute winner and holy grail for aurora hunters is Abisko National Park. It lies in a very specific precipitation shadow of the surrounding mountains, which creates the so-called blue hole. This meteorological phenomenon guarantees the statistically highest proportion of clear nights without precipitation in all of Scandinavia, so the sky often clears even when it’s snowing heavily elsewhere. A huge plus of Abisko is the zero light pollution right by Lake Torneträsk. You don’t need to pay for expensive aurora chasing in minibuses—you just step a few meters outside your accommodation and you have the most beautiful natural television in the world above you.

What clothing should you bring for the cold?

The foundation of survival is smart layering, which must absolutely start with quality thermal underwear made from merino wool. On top of that, put on a thick fleece or solid wool sweater, add an insulated down jacket, and finally cover everything with a windproof and waterproof shell. This will reliably protect you from the icy wind, which can drop the perceived temperature by dozens of degrees more. Don’t forget warm extremities either, because hands and feet freeze the fastest in the Arctic night. A great trick is two pairs of gloves—thin fingered ones for operating your camera and massive mittens into which you can quickly tuck and warm your frozen hands.

Can you see the northern lights in southern Sweden too?

Exceptionally it does happen in the south, but you need a really extraordinarily strong geomagnetic storm with a high KP index. Plus you need to travel far beyond the boundaries of big cities like Stockholm or Gothenburg to reliably escape the omnipresent light pollution. The aurora will always be very low on the horizon in the south and will never dance directly overhead. So even though with a bit of enormous luck you can photograph green streaks around Stockholm, that shouldn’t be your primary plan. For that real, once-in-a-lifetime experience, it’s simply worth sacrificing the time and money to take the night train deep north into the heart of the Arctic wilderness.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Křivoklát Castle: Tours, Tickets and 12 Things to Know

King Wenceslas IV of Bohemia knew exactly where to escape when the burdens of ruling started to weigh on him. During 1385 he spent almost the entire year at Křivoklát Castle in the Czech Republic, throwing himself into hunting in the deep forests and lavish feasting far from the reality of Prague. Today you won’t run into a royal retinue with freshly hunted stags below the walls, but the majestic atmosphere of one of the oldest and most important Czech castles, whose origins reach all the way back to the 12th century, has remained here to this day.

This medieval gem hidden in the heart of a protected landscape area attracts not only history lovers, but also filmmakers from around the world who have shot dozens of famous fairy tales and films here. I’ve put together a guide covering everything from choosing a tour route to ticket prices and 12 specific tips, so you can easily set off for Křivoklát as soon as next weekend. Among other things, you’ll learn about the infamous prison where the famous alchemist Edward Kelley spent two and a half years after killing his rival in a forbidden duel.

And because the Křivoklát region is worth far more than a single visit, I’ll throw in plenty of inspiration for the surrounding area too, so you can easily turn it into a whole long weekend. 😉

TL;DR

  • Where it is: The state castle of Křivoklát lies in the Rakovník district of Central Bohemia, roughly fifty kilometres west of Prague, and is surrounded on all sides by the deep forests of the Křivoklátsko Protected Landscape Area.
  • Ticket price: The basic Castle Palaces tour costs an adult around €12 (300 CZK), the most extensive route through the whole castle costs about €15 (360 CZK), while children under five get in completely free.
  • Tour length: Depending on the route you choose, you’ll spend between 60 and 100 minutes in the historic castle interiors, while the separate summer climb to the ramparts and the great tower takes about twenty minutes.
  • Opening hours: In the main summer season from May to September it’s open Tuesday to Sunday, in October the opening hours shorten until 4 pm, while from November to April it’s closed to individual visitors.
  • Getting there: The most romantic route is the train from Prague via Beroun straight to the Křivoklát stop; drivers can use the central paid car park about three hundred metres from the castle gate.
  • Top day-trip tip: Don’t miss a walk along the surrounding hiking trails, especially the popular nature trail through the Brdatka nature reserve with breathtaking views of the meander of the Berounka river.

Tour routes and tickets

tourlengthcapacityadultsenior 65+ / youth 18–24 / disabledchild 6–17
Gothic Palaces (oldest core)60 minmax 40 people€11 (260 CZK)€8.50 (210 CZK)€3 (80 CZK)
Castle Palaces (basic tour)80 minmax 40 people€12 (300 CZK)€10 (240 CZK)€3.50 (90 CZK)
Whole Castle (Gothic + Castle Palaces, ramparts, tower)100 minmax 30 people€15 (360 CZK)€12 (290 CZK)€4.50 (110 CZK)
Ramparts and great tower (self-guided)20 minmax 30 people€6 (140 CZK)€4.50 (110 CZK)€1.50 (40 CZK)

The National Heritage Institute offers visitors several different tour routes, so you can easily pick one based on how much time you have and what interests you most. On the Gothic Palaces route you’ll get a detailed look at the oldest core of the castle, including the second courtyard, the dark prison, the dungeon, the beautiful chapel and the stables. The basic Castle Palaces tour adds the magnificent Royal Hall, the picture gallery and the famous library. If you want to see absolutely everything, choose the extensive Whole Castle route, which also takes you onto the ramparts, into the Fürstenberg museum and up the Great Round Tower.

Basic adult admission ranges from around €11 to €15 (260–360 CZK) depending on the route, and you can pay conveniently by cash or card. Children under five get free entry to all tours, as do guides accompanying holders of severe disability cards and teachers accompanying school groups. If you’re heading out with the whole family or with friends, individuals don’t need to make any prior reservation — that’s only required for groups of more than fifteen people.

Tickets for all the main tour routes can also be bought online in advance on the castle’s official website, which saves you time queuing at the box office during the summer peak. Just keep in mind that the shortened Ramparts and Great Tower route is only open to visitors in the summer months, from the beginning of July to the end of August. For safety reasons this viewpoint route also closes immediately as soon as the weather turns rainy.

Opening hours

When planning your trip, don’t forget to carefully check the current opening hours for the 2026 season, because they change quite significantly over the course of the year. In the main summer season from 1 May to 30 September the castle is open from 9 am to 5 pm, with visiting days Tuesday to Sunday. As at most other state monuments in the country, the rule is that on Mondays the castle gates stay firmly shut to all ordinary visitors.

Once colourful autumn arrives, the opening hours shorten slightly and from 1 October to 31 October you can visit from 10 am to 4 pm, again with the exception of closed Mondays. I warmly recommend arriving with plenty of time to spare, ideally at least an hour and a half before the official closing time, so you can buy your tickets and complete the whole tour without rushing. During the cold winter months from November to April the entire monument is completely closed to the general public and only opens for pre-booked groups of fifteen or more paying people.

How to get to Křivoklát

Křivoklát is tucked away in deep forests, but luckily getting there is more than easy. Whether you prefer the comfort of your own car or a romantic train ride along the popular Central Bohemian lines, you’ll reach your destination without any unnecessary stress. You just need to decide what suits you better.

By train from Prague

Travelling by rail is without doubt the most romantic way to reach this picturesque corner of Central Bohemia in comfort. If you’re setting off from the capital, board a train on the Prague–Plzeň line and get off in Beroun, where a short change awaits. From Beroun you continue on a local service towards Rakovník and get off right at the charming Křivoklát stop.

Alternatively, you can travel via Kladno to Rakovník and change there for a service to Beroun. Whichever option you choose, it’s just 650 metres on foot from the Křivoklát stop to the castle gate. Even families with children will manage it without any trouble.

By car and parking

For those of you who prefer the independence of travelling by your own car, the drive from the capital is very straightforward and quick. The castle lies roughly fifty kilometres west of Prague, so you can get here fairly comfortably along the main roads in just under an hour of smooth driving. The nearest car park is in a very convenient spot, just three hundred metres from the historic monument itself.

When you arrive in the area, though, you must keep in mind at all times that you’re right in the heart of the Křivoklátsko Protected Landscape Area. You may only park in marked spots. Don’t try parking along forest tracks or on meadows — fines in a protected landscape area are no joke.

Where to stay and eat

💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. For tickets, tours and activities it pays to compare and book through GetYourGuide.

If you want to soak up the picturesque atmosphere of deep forests and historic monuments to the fullest, I recommend staying in the region for at least one night. There’s surprisingly plenty of accommodation around — you’ll count about fifty places in Křivoklát and the immediate area, so there’s something for everyone, from budget backpackers to families with kids. A great option, and a firm favourite among travellers, is the cosy Penzion a Restaurace Nad Hradem, where spacious family rooms await with their own bathroom and a handy little kitchenette for making your morning coffee.

The guesthouse looks out over the garden and has a pool in summer, which after a full day of tramping across ramparts and through forests you’ll appreciate more than you might think right now. ☺️ In the morning they serve a generous continental buffet breakfast full of fresh pastries, an array of cheeses, ripe fruit and refreshing juices. The complex also includes a traditional restaurant and bar, where you can pop in for a light meat-free dinner or a glass of good wine in the evening and talk over the day’s adventures.

Another good option is Resort U Jelena, which stands right below the castle itself, so it’s just a few minutes to the box office and you can set off on your tour in the morning before the coach tours arrive. You can choose classic two- to four-bed rooms with breakfast or half board, and if you’re travelling with a bigger group, there are also separate houses for six to ten people. It’s best to check the current offer and prices of both places directly with them before booking, as they change with the season.

12 things not to miss at Křivoklát and nearby

A visit to this amazing Central Bohemian region definitely doesn’t end with buying a ticket in the courtyard. I’ve put together twelve tips for you. Some are right behind the castle walls, others will send you off into the surrounding forests. So go ahead and plan a whole weekend. 😁

1. The Great Round Tower and the view from the ramparts

You’ll spot the tower before you even reach the box office. It juts up above the forests, and you’ll immediately understand why filmmakers love it so much. If you’re a keen fan of bird’s-eye views, I definitely recommend the Whole Castle tour, because it’s the only one that takes you all the way to its very top. From the highest gallery, in good weather, you’ll be treated to a gorgeous panoramic view over the deep Křivoklát forests and the winding stream that flows into the Berounka not far from here.

Back in medieval times the stone tower served not only for defence and watching for approaching enemies, but has also starred in several famous film fairy tales. You might recognise it from the older, much-loved film Sleeping Beauty, where these massive walls made a perfect, chilling backdrop for the castle prison. Filmmakers simply love the well-preserved architecture here, and the tower rightly ranks among the most photographed spots in the whole area.

If you don’t want to do the long tour of the interiors, in the summer months you can take a very handy shortened route. During July and August the special Ramparts and Great Tower route is open, which you walk entirely on your own without a guide and which takes only about twenty minutes. Just always bear in mind that in rainy weather this outdoor part of the complex closes immediately for safety reasons.

2. The castle chapel with Gothic details

On the Gothic Palaces route your guide will lead you into one of the most beautiful spiritual spaces you’ll ever see in a Czech castle. This late-Gothic chapel has kept its utterly stunning spiritual atmosphere to this day, which contrasts sharply with the bustle of the main courtyard or the darkness of the nearby dungeon. Its magnificent decoration was once seen to by the Czech rulers themselves, who reflected and attended services here during their stays.

The building history of this part of the castle is very closely tied to the era when the powerful ruler Přemysl Otakar II turned Křivoklát into an extensive royal residence. During the tour you’ll be able to admire with your own eyes the masterful work of the stonemasons of the time, who carved incredibly fine and intricate Gothic details into the hard stone. The coloured light streaming through the tall decorated windows creates a fascinating play of shadows in the interior, giving the whole space a magical touch.

The chapel has survived in excellent condition mainly thanks to the careful work of restorers, who tended to its costly upkeep over the centuries. Listening to the commentary, you’ll fully realise that this room was the true spiritual heart of the whole castle, accessible only to the most distinguished guests and the royal family itself. Just stand for a while and look — even without the commentary, the place will get to you.

3. The Knights’ Hall and the legacy of the Habsburgs

Another unforgettable stop on the Gothic Palaces tour is the imposing Knights’ Hall, which holds a huge slice of fascinating European history. This grand space is now thematically dedicated to the powerful Habsburg dynasty, and above all to a very interesting historical figure — the lovely Philippine Welser. It’s right here that you can get an accurate picture of everyday life among the highest aristocracy during the high Middle Ages and early modern era.

The hall breathes the atmosphere of ancient heroic deeds, heightened by an extensive display of period weapons and elaborate armour adorning the massive walls. You can get a close-up look at the masterpieces of the armourers and swordsmiths of the time, who supplied the wealthiest nobles in the land. It’s absolutely fascinating to imagine how heavy it must have been to wear several dozen kilograms of iron armour during exhausting military campaigns.

The tour of this hall flows seamlessly into a visit to the adjoining Great Knights’ Hall, which served for even grander gatherings and lavish feasts. You won’t find tables laid with roasted delicacies here anymore, but the preserved architectural features and high ceilings will still take your breath away. The guides say the nobles held banquets here, and honestly, you can picture it without any trouble.

4. The Fürstenberg library with thousands of volumes

If you buy a ticket for the Castle Palaces tour, one of the absolute highlights will be a visit to the breathtaking Fürstenberg library. The moment you step in, that unmistakable scent of old books and leather hits you — you know, the one that tells you you’re in the right place. Shelves reaching all the way to the ceiling hold an incredible 52,000 volumes, making this collection one of the most important and largest château libraries in the country.

The library was gradually built up by members of the princely Fürstenberg family, who owned and carefully managed the castle until 1929. We owe the survival of the whole monument to this enlightened family, because they carried out its extensive restoration at a time when it was genuinely at risk of irreversible ruin. They diligently collected literature from every possible field, from philosophy and history to natural sciences and law, so they always had access to the latest European knowledge.

The basic tour won’t let you leaf through the rare books directly, but even just the sight of the endless rows of decorated leather spines is an unforgettable experience. During the commentary the guide will happily point out the most interesting pieces in the collection and tell you how difficult it was in the past to manage and protect such a huge number of books from meddling pests and damp.

5. The dungeon and the prison of a famous alchemist

Over the centuries Křivoklát wasn’t only a favourite place for boisterous royal pleasures and hunts — in later times it turned into a much-feared state prison. You’ll fully grasp this darker chapter of the castle’s history when you visit the deep dungeon and the cold prison cells, which you’ll see on the Gothic Palaces tour. Looking down into the dark holes where prisoners were lowered mercilessly on a rope, you’re guaranteed a shiver down your spine.

The most famous prisoner of all was the English alchemist Edward Kelley, who was involuntarily lodged here in 1591. He ended up behind bars on the orders of Emperor Rudolf II after killing the courtier Jiří Hunkler in a strictly forbidden duel. The ruler sent him a fairly clear message at the time: he would only win back his lost freedom in exchange for the secret recipe for a magical tincture used to make precious stones.

Kelley ended up spending two and a half years in these inhospitable surroundings, waiting in vain for release. Even Queen Elizabeth I of England interceded for him, and still nothing came of it. That’s some serious bad luck. 😅 The story of this famous scholar lends the cold walls here an incredibly mysterious atmosphere, and it’s one of the favourite tales the local guides will gladly tell you.

lukas a lucka
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to stay in Křivoklát
3 accommodations — resorts and other lodging options

6. The castle picture gallery and its valuable collections

On the extended Castle Palaces tour you’ll have the unique chance to peek into the richly furnished castle picture gallery, which will delight the heart of every lover of classical fine art. These rooms served the noble owners for displaying rare family portraits, valuable landscapes and other works of art the family accumulated over the generations. On the walls you can admire the skill of the old master painters, who could perfectly capture not only the likeness but also the character of the high aristocracy of the day.

The number and quality of the artworks on display clearly show just how much wealth and influence the local owners commanded. And because the paintings hang right in the historic rooms, the whole thing feels completely different from an ordinary museum. During the commentary you’ll learn, among other things, how such collections were painstakingly built up in the past and which artworks were among the most sought-after by high society at the time.

As you walk through these elegant rooms, you’ll also surely notice the many references to King Vladislaus Jagiellon, who did a great deal for the late-Gothic rebuilding of the whole castle complex. It was during his celebrated reign that Křivoklát gained a series of new representative spaces designed to impress every foreign envoy and domestic visitor who wandered here.

7. The Fürstenberg museum full of trophies

If you decide to invest in the longest Whole Castle tour, your reward will be entry to the fascinating Fürstenberg museum. The whole exhibition is dedicated to the Fürstenbergs, the family who owned the castle for centuries and thanks to whom we still have it preserved at all. Here you’ll find a huge number of personal items, historic furniture and various family collections that will give you a perfect insight into the everyday life of this very significant noble family.

Since the castle sits in the middle of deep forests, a large part of the museum exhibition is devoted to rich hunting trophies and weapons that the nobles loved to collect. Hunting wasn’t just an ordinary leisure pastime — it was a very important social event where key political and business ties were forged. Looking at the exhibits on display, you’ll easily understand why rulers and nobility took such a liking to this place for their hunting expeditions.

The Fürstenberg family cared for the castle very carefully and with enormous love, yet in the end they had to part with it for good. The last owner, Max Egon II, sold Křivoklát in 1929 to the then Czechoslovak Republic, and the monument became state property. In the museum you can see a number of unique documents and photographs from this pivotal era, capturing the gradual handover of this enormous estate into the hands of the newly formed democratic state.

8. The Royal Hall and the legacy of great rulers

Among the most impressive spaces in the whole Central Bohemian complex is undoubtedly the spacious Royal Hall, which you’ll see in detail on the Castle Palaces tour. Its current generous form is largely down to the famous ruler Vladislaus Jagiellon, who decided to grandly rebuild the castle after a period of mild decline and give it a suitably representative face. It’s in these vast spaces that you’ll best appreciate the enormous architectural evolution this originally modest hunting lodge went through over the centuries.

The hall naturally served the most important state occasions, the reception of distinguished guests and the grand celebrations that were an inseparable part of life at the royal court. That vaulted ceiling is really something — you tip your head back and just stand there for a moment with your mouth open. It’s genuinely fascinating to imagine what important political decisions were made within these thick stone walls.

During the detailed tour, the local guides will explain not only the complex building history of this part of the castle, but also tell you many interesting facts about the lives of the famous rulers who loved to spend their precious time here. If you’re interested in Czech statehood and history, you’ll surely be intrigued by the documented fact that it was within these safely fortified walls that the precious Czech crown jewels were hidden for safekeeping during the turbulent and bloody Hussite wars.

9. The Skryje lakes and the mysterious Skryje waterfall

Once you’ve seen all the castle palaces, definitely head out to discover the beauty of the vast Křivoklátsko Protected Landscape Area, which surrounds the whole medieval monument on all sides. About twenty kilometres from the castle, near the picturesque village of Skryje, you’ll find the popular Jezírka nature reserve, which rightly ranks among the most sought-after day-trip destinations in the whole region. This romantic body of water lies on the tranquil Zbirožský brook, one of the many smaller tributaries of the nearby Berounka river.

Interestingly, this unique natural scenery didn’t just form on its own over millennia — it took shape only after unexpectedly heavy rains in 1872. Back then a massive release of huge rock blocks gradually sealed the narrow crevices in the gorge and created two crystal-clear lakes. Right next to them, the photogenic Skryje waterfall cheerfully babbles away, and on sunny days you can take some truly gorgeous holiday photos here as a keepsake.

The path is well marked and even families with children will manage it — just watch out for roots and wet stones (sandals aren’t a great idea here). 😅 Along the way you’ll also fully enjoy the calm atmosphere of the local deep forests, which today make up almost two thirds of the enormous area of this UNESCO biosphere reserve.

10. Zbečno and the historic Hamous farmstead

You’ll find this picturesque village in the valley of the Berounka river, about fifteen kilometres from the town of Rakovník. It’s here that the historic Hamous farmstead stands — a unique folk monument and a perfect example of what traditional rural living and farming looked like in past centuries. During your visit you can take a close look at the authentic timbered living quarters, the old bread oven and the extensive farm buildings once used for keeping livestock and storing the harvest.

A trip to Zbečno also combines wonderfully with a pleasant walk along the river, where complete peace and the beautiful nature of the Křivoklátsko Protected Landscape Area await you. The local forests are, by the way, a renowned paradise for keen mushroom pickers, so in autumn don’t forget to pack a cloth bag or basket. And if you prefer fishing, the banks of the Berounka offer an absolutely ideal setting for this relaxing hobby.

11. The nature trail through Brdatka and the Berounka meander

If you love hiking, you definitely shouldn’t miss the beautiful nature trail linking Křivoklát with nearby Zbečno. This very popular route leads you straight through the protected Brdatka nature reserve, where you’ll have the unique chance to admire the varied mix of local deciduous and mixed forests. These woodlands provide a safe refuge for an incredible 120 species of nesting birds and hundreds of rare plants.

But the biggest draw of the whole walk is the fantastic views of the famous meander of the Berounka river, which carves deep into the forested valley below you. The sight of the river lazily winding through the landscape is one of the most iconic images of the whole Central Bohemian region, and you’re guaranteed some gorgeous shots for your travel album. The trail is easy to walk, and thanks to the many information panels you’ll learn plenty of interesting facts about the local unique biosphere reserve along the way.

12. Nearby trips to Roztoky, Lány and Zbiroh

You can easily enrich your weekend itinerary with a visit to other interesting places, several of which lie within easy reach. Worth seeing, for example, is the village of Roztoky, about thirteen kilometres southeast of Rakovník, which offers more pleasant options for easy walks along the calm river. The whole area is also laced with a dense network of well-maintained cycle paths that will delight any keen cyclist.

If you still haven’t had enough of historic monuments after touring the medieval fortress, you can carry straight on to the nearby châteaux of Lány and Zbiroh. Both of these grand aristocratic residences are very easy to reach by car and make a great contrast to the rougher architecture of the old Přemyslid castle. Zbiroh will also charm you with its mysterious history linked to the Templars, while at Lány you can enjoy a stroll through the extensive château park, which traditionally serves as the summer residence of Czech presidents.

Křivoklát on film

The castle courtyard and its majestic stone walls attract not only lovers of Czech history — for several decades now they’ve been a huge magnet for domestic and international film crews. According to available overviews, around thirty films have been shot at Křivoklát, including some of the most famous and best-loved Czech fairy tales. It’s precisely the well-preserved architecture here, free of jarring modern elements, that gives directors an absolutely perfect historical backdrop.

Take, for example, A Night at Karlstein from 1973, The Third Prince or Three Veterans. Křivoklát always played the grand royal residence that you simply can’t find anywhere else. A sharp-eyed viewer will surely recognise the local courtyard in films like Honza the Almost King, How to Wake a Princess, or in An Angel of the Lord from 2005, which featured unforgettable scenes from heaven and hell. Director Juraj Jakubisko then chose the exteriors here for his epic Bathory from 2008.

International productions don’t lag behind either, and they regularly bring the biggest Hollywood stars to Central Bohemia. Filmed among the stone ramparts were, for example, the action hit Wanted with Angelina Jolie, the visually striking The Brothers Grimm with Matt Damon and Heath Ledger, and the Norwegian fairy tale The Ash Lad from 2016. More recently, you might also remember the mysterious castle interiors from the popular TV show The Traitors, which made perfect use of the place’s dark atmosphere.

When to visit Křivoklát

Choosing the right time to visit is the key to enjoying your trip in peace, without unnecessary stress from the crowds. During the peak of summer in July and August you have to expect the biggest rush of domestic and international tourists, which means longer queues at the box office and fully booked tour groups. The upside of the holiday months, though, is that the whole complex is open, including the special summer route to the ramparts and the great tower.

If you prefer a more intimate atmosphere and a calmer pace, I warmly recommend planning your trip for the Indian summer of September and October. The surrounding deciduous forests of the protected landscape area turn beautifully into autumn tones at this time and give you a fantastic backdrop for your photos. On top of that, you’ll comfortably avoid the summer heat, which you’ll especially appreciate on the more demanding walk up the steep castle hill from the train or car park.

In the cold off-season from November until early spring, the heritage staff carry out essential maintenance, and only pre-booked groups of fifteen or more paying people can get into the interiors. The winter months from November to March are therefore closed to individual visitors, so really don’t just turn up unannounced at Christmas. You’ll only find a locked gate and priceless peace and quiet. 😉

Practical tips to finish

💡 Tip: As an individual you don’t need to worry about booking the regular tours at all — reservations are only compulsory for larger groups of more than fifteen people, who must email at least three days in advance.

💡 Tip: In hot summer months, definitely bring a light sweater for the longer tour routes, because inside the massive stone walls it stays pleasantly but quite strongly cool.

💡 Tip: If you’re driving, don’t leave parking to the last minute and don’t try to park freely in the forest, because the whole area falls within the strictly protected landscape zone, where high fines apply.

💡 Tip: Ideally plan your visit for weekdays other than Monday, when everything is closed, to avoid the typical weekend rush of day-trippers from nearby Prague.

💡 Tip: You can conveniently book tickets for all the main tours online from home on the official National Heritage Institute website, saving precious time you’d otherwise waste queuing at the box office.

💡 Tip: Pack sturdy, comfortable shoes, because the historic courtyard and the paths in the surrounding forests are full of uneven ground and cobblestones, on which you’d needlessly suffer in sandals.

Where to next

Read our other guides too and get inspired for trips around the Czech Republic:

Frequently asked questions

Before you start planning your trip to Central Bohemia, you’ll surely find it useful to have a summary of the most common questions travellers tend to ask about visiting this stunning royal residence.

How much does admission to Křivoklát cost?

The basic Castle Palace tour costs adult visitors u003cstrongu003e€12 in the current 2026 seasonu003c/strongu003e (300 CZK), while the longest route Through the Entire Castle costs €14 (360 CZK). The Gothic Palaces route is €10 (260 CZK). Children under five have free admission to all tours, and reduced admission applies to seniors over 65 and youth. In summer, access to the ramparts viewpoint is available for €5.50 (140 CZK).

How long does a tour of Křivoklát take?

The duration depends on which specific route you choose at the ticket office. u003cstrongu003eThe shortest tour of the Gothic Palaces takes about 60 minutesu003c/strongu003e, the medium Castle Palace tour lasts 80 minutes, and the most comprehensive Through the Entire Castle route requires a full 100 minutes of your time. The separate summer climb to the ramparts and lookout tower without a guide takes approximately twenty minutes.

What has been filmed at Křivoklát?

The medieval courtyard and majestic interiors have appeared in dozens of popular films. For example, the classic comedy u003cstrongu003eA Night at Karlštejn, Three Veterans, The Third Princeu003c/strongu003e, and the beloved Christmas fairy tale Angel of the Lord were shot here. Among international big-budget films, the castle hosted the Hollywood action blockbuster Wanted with Angelina Jolie, The Brothers Grimm, the historical film Bathory, and also the recent thriller reality TV show The Traitors.

Who owns Křivoklát?

Křivoklát is currently state-owned and its day-to-day management is carefully overseen by the u003cstrongu003eNational Heritage Instituteu003c/strongu003e. The last private owners of this vast estate were members of the princely Fürstenberg family, who took exemplary care of it. A fundamental change came in 1929, when the last owner, Max Egon II, sold the entire castle complex to the then Czechoslovak Republic.

Is there a train to Křivoklát?

Yes, rail transport is very convenient and offers beautiful countryside views. From Prague you’ll travel u003cstrongu003eon the main line to Berounu003c/strongu003e, where you simply change to a local connection heading directly to Křivoklát railway station. From the train station it’s just 650 metres on foot to the main castle gate, so the entire journey is easily manageable even for families with children.

Is Křivoklát open year-round?

For regular individual tourists, the castle is not open year-round. u003cstrongu003eThe main season runs from May to Septemberu003c/strongu003e, when it’s open Tuesday to Sunday, and in October the opening hours are reduced. During the cold winter months from November to April, the gates remain closed to the public and only pre-booked group tours of fifteen paying persons or more are admitted.

Can you visit Křivoklát with children?

Absolutely, a family visit is a great idea, plus u003cstrongu003echildren under five have free admissionu003c/strongu003e. However, I recommend carefully considering which tour to choose. The 100-minute Through the Entire Castle route might be too long and tiring for the youngest visitors, so with smaller children it’s much better to choose the shorter one-hour Gothic Palaces tour, which will reliably hold their attention.

Which tour route should you choose?

If you’re visiting the castle for the first time and have plenty of time, u003cstrongu003eyou’ll see the most on the Through the Entire Castle routeu003c/strongu003e, which includes all the palaces and the great tower. The golden middle way is the eighty-minute Castle Palace tour with the magnificent library and picture gallery. For families with children or time-limited travellers, the ideal choice is the shorter Gothic Palaces route, which shows the most important historic core including the chapel.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Ještěd, Czech Republic: How to Get There, Prices & 12 Tips 2026

Ikonická silueta, která plynule prodlužuje horu a tvoří nezaměnitelný symbol celých severních Čech, láká k návštěvě už z dálky. Ještěd se svou výškou 1 012 metrů nad mořem není jen obyčejným kopcem za Libercem, ale místem, kde se snoubí dechberoucí příroda s architekturou, která sbírala celosvětová ocenění. Ať už sem vyrazíte za fantastickými výhledy, sportovními výkony nebo toužíte strávit noc v jedinečném retro hotelu v oblacích, tenhle výlet vás zaručeně nadchne.

Pokud se sem chystáte poprvé, musím vás hned na začátek upozornit na jednu naprosto zásadní věc, která spoustu turistů na místě zaskočí. Kabinová lanovka z Horního Hanychova přímo na vrchol aktuálně nejezdí a ještě několik let jezdit nebude. Nenechte se tím ale vůbec odradit, protože možností, jak se dostat nahoru, je stále spousta a samotná cesta krásnou přírodou Ještědsko-kozákovského hřbetu stojí za to.

Tady najdete všechno, co k výletu potřebujete — od parkování přes kafe s výhledem až po tip, kdy vyrazit, aby vás čekalo moře mraků místo šedivé mlhy. Zjistíte, kde nejlépe zaparkovat, kudy vede nejpohodlnější cesta s kočárkem a samozřejmě nebudou chybět ani tipy na to nejzajímavější, co vás na samotném vrcholu čeká. Připravte si pohodlné boty a případně i větrovku, protože nahoře umí pořádně foukat, a pojďme se vrhnout na plánování.

Shrnutí pro ty, kteří nemají čas číst celý článek

  • Kde to je: Ještěd leží v Libereckém kraji, tyčí se jihozápadně přímo nad městem Liberec.
  • Vstupné a poplatky: Vstup na vrchol i k samotné budově vysílače je zcela zdarma, platí se pouze za parkování nebo za ubytování a jídlo.
  • Parkování: Nejblíže zaparkujete na parkovišti U Ještědky za 200 Kč na den, případně v sedle Výpřež za 100 Kč.
  • Kabinová lanovka: Tradiční lanovka z Horního Hanychova je dlouhodobě mimo provoz, probíhá příprava stavby zcela nové dráhy.
  • Jak dlouho trvá výstup: Pěšky z parkoviště U Ještědky jste nahoře za 15 až 20 minut, ze sedla Výpřež to trvá zhruba hodinu a čtvrt.
  • Co je nahoře otevřené: Funguje Horský hotel Ještěd, hlavní restaurace, sezónní Bistro 1012 na ochozu a venkovní občerstvení Rohanka.
  • Hlavní tip: Vyrazte sem v podzimních nebo zimních měsících na západ slunce, kdy se velmi často tvoří nádherná teplotní inverze a vy stojíte nad mořem mraků.

Lanovka na Ještěd nejezdí. Co to znamená pro váš výlet

Nejčastější otázka, kterou turisté před cestou řeší, se týká právě dopravy na samotný vrchol. Kabinová lanovka z Horního Hanychova je od 31. října 2021 mimo provoz a do odvolání prochází kompletní přípravou na generální rekonstrukci. K uzavření došlo po tragické nehodě, při které spadla jedna z kabin z třicetimetrové výšky, což bohužel stálo život pana průvodčího. Drážní inspekce později zjistila, že na lanovce chyběly prvky zajišťující automatickou aktivaci brzdy, a celý případ tak aktuálně řeší soud.

Pro váš výlet to v praxi znamená, že nahoru musíte vyrazit buď po svých, autem, nebo využít sedačkovou lanovku Skalka, která vás přiblíží do zhruba dvou třetin kopce. Oficiální webové stránky jasně uvádějí, že tradiční kabinová dráha je aktuálně mimo provoz, a proto s ní při plánování trasy rozhodně nepočítejte.

Dobrou zprávou je, že se již pilně pracuje na projektu zcela nové lanovky. V prosinci 2024 byl vybrán návrh od studia Anna Marešová designers, které mimochodem stojí i za podobou nové lanovky na pražský Petřín. Nová prosvětlená stříbrná kabina pro sto lidí by měla připomínat přistávající UFO a dráha povede už od konečné zastávky tramvaje. V nejoptimističtějším scénáři se první cestující projedou nejdříve v roce 2029 nebo 2030.

Jak se na Ještěd dostat

Způsobů, jak zdolat tento ikonický vrchol, je hned několik a vybrat si můžete přesně podle své fyzické kondice. Projděte si ty nejoblíbenější trasy a parkoviště, abyste přesně věděli, co vás čeká.

Autem a pak kousek pěšky

Pokud cestujete autem, přijedete z Liberce po silnici E 442 přes městskou část Horní Hanychov a lesem vystoupáte k sedlu Výpřež. Zde máte na výběr hned několik oficiálních parkovišť, ze kterých dojdete zbytek cesty po svých. Nejblíže je parkoviště U Ještědky, kde za denní stání zaplatíte 200 Kč a nahoru dojdete po silničce za příjemných patnáct až dvacet minut. Dejte si jen pozor, že automat zde bere pouze hotovost.

Levnější variantou je parkoviště Výpřež, kde denní stání vyjde na 100 Kč a platí se v místním kiosku. Odtud vás čeká zhruba tříkilometrová procházka po silničce, která zabere okolo pětasedmdesáti minut a je skvělá i pro rodiny s kočárkem. Alternativně můžete využít parkoviště P1 přímo u skiareálu Ještěd, které stojí 200 Kč na den a nabízí pohodlný přístup k turistickým trasám. Auto lze vyvézt i přímo na vrchol, kde parkování vyjde na 250 Kč za den, ale kapacita je zde velmi omezená.

Pěšky z Liberce

Milovníci turistiky se mohou vydat na vrchol přímo z liberecké čtvrti Horní Hanychov, kam se snadno dostanete městskou hromadnou dopravou. Z Hanychova vede oblíbená modrá turistická značka, která měří 3,4 kilometru a připraví vás na poměrně strmé stoupání. Celkové převýšení na této trase činí zhruba 450 metrů, takže se docela zapotíte, ale odměnou vám bude krásná lesní cesta.

Trasa přes Pláně pod Ještědem po červené značce měří 4,8 kilometru a stoupání je o poznání pozvolnější, takže si cestou stačíte vychutnat výhledy do krajiny, a kdo by chtěl výšlap ještě víc odlehčit, může vyrazit z Černého kopce po hřebeni, kde jsou to necelé dva kilometry s převýšením pouhých 140 metrů.

Sedačkovou lanovkou Skalka

I když kabinová lanovka nejezdí, můžete pro přiblížení k vrcholu využít sedačkovou lanovku Skalka, která patří k místnímu skiareálu. Tato lanovka je v provozu i během letní sezóny, konkrétně v červenci a srpnu jezdí denně, zatímco v září a říjnu funguje o víkendech a vybraných svátcích. Lanovka vás pohodlně vyveze na Černý kopec, čímž si ušetříte to nejhorší stoupání.

Od horní stanice lanovky Skalka vás čeká už jen příjemná procházka po červené turistické značce, která měří necelé dva kilometry. Cesta na samotný vrchol trvá od lanovky zhruba necelou hodinu a zvládnou ji bez problémů i menší děti nebo sváteční turisté. Aktuální ceny jízdného pro letní i zimní sezónu najdete vždy na webových stránkách skiareálu.

Tramvají a pěšky

Velmi praktickou možností, jak se dostat na výchozí bod turistických tras, je využití liberecké městské hromadné dopravy. Do Horního Hanychova jezdí z centra Liberce pravidelná tramvajová linka, která vás doveze až na konečnou zastávku. Právě z tohoto místa mimochodem povede v budoucnu i zcela nová kabinová lanovka. Od tramvaje se pak můžete plynule napojit na modrou turistickou značku a vyrazit pěšky vzhůru.

Tahle varianta má jednu velkou výhodu, protože vůbec nemusíte řešit parkování ani platit stovky za celodenní stání. Konečná v Horním Hanychově je zároveň nejlepším startovním bodem pro pěší výstup i pro cestu ke spodní stanici sedačkové lanovky Skalka.

Kolik výlet na Ještěd stojí

Finanční náročnost výletu se odvíjí hlavně od toho, jaký komfort si na místě dopřejete, protože samotný přístup na vrchol a výhledy do kraje jsou naprosto zdarma. Neplatí se žádné vstupné k budově ani neexistuje placená rozhledna, což z Ještědu dělá velmi přístupný cíl. Základním nákladem pro motoristy zůstává parkování, které se pohybuje od 100 Kč na Výpřeži přes 200 Kč U Ještědky až po 250 Kč přímo na vrcholu.

Pokud se rozhodnete spojit výlet s gastronomickým zážitkem, počítejte s tím, že ceny v restauraci jsou vyšší, protože se vaří z čerstvých surovin a logistika dopravy surovin na vrchol něco stojí. Oběd pro dvě osoby vás vyjde zhruba na úroveň lepších městských restaurací. Nejdražší, ale zároveň nejkrásnější položkou může být ubytování přímo v Horském hotelu Ještěd, kde nejlevnější pokoje začínají na částce 2 700 Kč za noc, ale za ty nezapomenutelné výhledy to rozhodně stojí.

Kde se ubytovat

💡 Tip na ubytování a zážitky: Ubytování si nejradši hledáme na Booking.com, kde bývají nejlepší storno podmínky. Vstupenky, výlety a aktivity se pak vyplatí porovnat a koupit přes GetYourGuide.

Tady si vybíráte vlastně mezi dvěma světy — buď noc přímo v oblacích ve vysílači, nebo pohodlný hotel dole v Liberci za zlomek ceny. Možností je zkrátka víc a snadno tak zvolíte tu pravou podle svého rozpočtu a preferencí.

Rozhodně nejkouzelnější variantou je Horský hotel Ještěd, který se nachází přímo v ikonické budově vysílače. Hotel disponuje kapacitou zhruba pětačtyřiceti lůžek rozdělených do šesti kategorií a v ceně pobytu je vždy zahrnuta výborná snídaně. Nejlevnější pokoje kategorie Economy pořídíte od 2 700 Kč za noc, ale musíte počítat s tím, že nemají vyhrazené parkovací místo. Prostornější pokoje Comfort nebo oblíbené Retro vyjdou na 4 450 Kč a pro rodiny je k dispozici velké apartmá za zhruba deset tisíc korun. Hosté se sem vracejí především kvůli neuvěřitelné atmosféře, kdy přímo z postele sledujete východ slunce nebo zimní inverzi, při které máte moře mraků přímo pod nohama.

Pokud je hotel nahoře plně obsazený nebo hledáte cenově dostupnější variantu, Liberec nabízí spoustu skvělých hotelů, ze kterých jste u paty kopce za pár minut. Běžný dvoulůžkový pokoj ve městě se pohybuje mezi patnácti sty až dvěma tisíci korunami za noc. Zde jsou ověřené tipy pro různé typy cestovatelů:

  • Pro milovníky historie a elegance: Clarion Grandhotel Zlatý Lev sídlí přímo v parkové zóně v centru Liberce. Budova prošla nedávno kompletní rekonstrukcí a nabízí špičkové služby s hodnocením přesahujícím devět bodů z deseti.
  • Pro rodiny s dětmi: Wellness Hotel Babylon je fantastický čtyřhvězdičkový resort, který je přímou součástí obřího zábavního komplexu. Děti se vyřádí v aquaparku, lunaparku nebo iQPARKu a vy si odpočinete ve wellness.
  • Pro páry hledající luxus v centru: Pytloun Grand Hotel Imperial nabízí moderní designové pokoje přímo v srdci Liberce, odkud máte blízko do všech vyhlášených kaváren i na tramvaj směr Ještěd.

12 věcí, které si na Ještědu nenechte ujít

Ať už jedete na otočku, nebo plánujete prodloužený víkend, celý Ještěd by se vlastně dal proběhnout za hodinu a mohli byste jet domů. Jenže pak byste minuli dost věcí, kvůli kterým se sem lidé vracejí znovu a znovu.

1. Unikátní architektura Karla Hubáčka

Hlavním důvodem, proč sem lidé jezdí zdaleka, je fantastická architektura. Stavba ve tvaru jednodílného rotačního hyperboloidu vznikla mezi lety 1966 a 1973 podle návrhu geniálního architekta Karla Hubáčka. Budova vysoká zhruba devadesát metrů byla navržena tak, aby plynule prodlužovala horu a nenarušovala přirozenou siluetu kopce, a právě tahle myšlenka z ní udělala světový unikát. Na mapě Úžasných míst drží hodnocení 4,82 z 5 ze sto pětašedesáti hlasů, což ji řadí mezi nejlépe hodnocená místa v celém Česku.

Tento architektonický klenot nahradil původní dřevěnou horskou chatu, která do základů vyhořela v lednu roku 1963. Výjimečnost stavby potvrdil i zisk Perretovy ceny v roce 1969, vůbec nejvyššího ocenění, jakého kdy český architekt dosáhl. Budova, na jejíž statice pracoval Zdeněk Patrman a interiérech Otakar Binar, je od roku 2006 národní kulturní památkou a aktuálně usiluje o zápis na prestižní seznam světového dědictví UNESCO.

Vlastnická struktura tohoto skvostu prošla nedávno velkou změnou, když v únoru 2026 zastupitelstvo Libereckého kraje schválilo odkoupení objektu od Českých Radiokomunikací za zhruba 180 milionů korun. Kraj už nyní připravuje obří rekonstrukci, která by měla vyjít na 400 až 500 milionů korun a zabere zhruba deset let. Naštěstí tyto dlouhodobé plány nijak neomezují současný provoz hotelu a restaurace, takže si budovu můžete bez obav prohlédnout zvenku i zevnitř.

2. Prstencové kyvadlo chránící věž

Jedním z nejvíce fascinujících technických detailů celé stavby, který běžný turista často mine, je důmyslný systém ochrany proti silnému větru. Na vrcholu hory panují často extrémní povětrnostní podmínky a budova se ve vichru přirozeně houpe, což by mohlo narušit její statiku. Architekti proto museli vymyslet způsob, jak tyto obrovské nápory větru efektivně vyrovnávat a zajistit bezpečnost celé konstrukce.

Řešením se stalo speciální prstencové kyvadlo o hmotnosti 800 kilogramů, které je důmyslně zavěšené na tlumičích v horní části věže. Jakmile se do vysílače opře silný vítr a stavba se začne naklánět, toto masivní kyvadlo se svým protipohybem postará o tlumení příčného kmitání. Je to naprosto brilantní ukázka inženýrského umu šedesátých let, která bezchybně funguje dodnes.

Tento unikátní systém se ukrývá pod krytem horní části věže, který je vyrobený z navíjeného laminátu, aby nebránil prostupu radiových vln. Díky tomuto kyvadlu je pobyt v hotelu i restauraci naprosto bezpečný i během podzimních orkánů. Až budete uvnitř pít kávu a za okny se budou ženit čerti, vzpomeňte si, že nad vaší hlavou tiše pracuje osmisetkilové závaží, které celou tu ohromnou masu drží v dokonalé rovnováze.

3. Výhledy do všech světových stran

Pokud vám bude přát počasí, výhledy z vrcholu Ještědu patří k těm vůbec nejlepším v celé České republice. Z nadmořské výšky 1 012 metrů máte krajinu jako na dlani a při dobré viditelnosti dohlédnete hluboko za hranice kraje i státu. Přímo pod nohama se vám rozprostírá stotisícový Liberec, jehož ulice a parky působí z této výšky jako propracovaný model pro vláčky.

Když přesunete zrak dál do krajiny, otevře se vám fantastické panorama Jizerských hor, Krkonoš, Lužických hor i Českého středohoří. Celý Ještědsko-kozákovský hřbet tvoří přirozenou bariéru, takže výhled na sever směrem do Polska a Německa má úplně jiný charakter než pohled do českého vnitrozemí. Můžete zde strávit hodiny jen tím, že budete s mapou v ruce identifikovat jednotlivé vrcholky na obzoru.

Pamatujte ale na to, že počasí se na vrcholu dokáže změnit během pár minut. Často se stává, že zatímco v Liberci panuje slunečný den, vrchol hory se zničehonic zahalí do hustého mraku, přes který neuvidíte ani na deset metrů. Vyplatí se proto před výjezdem nahoru vždy zkontrolovat aktuální záběry z webkamer, abyste z téhle vyhlídkové parády měli opravdu maximum.

4. Tradiční oběd v Restauraci Ještěd

Zážitek z výletu by nebyl kompletní bez návštěvy proslulé restaurace, která se nachází přímo v prstenci věže a nabízí panoramatické výhledy od každého stolu. Restaurace se otevírá denně v 10:00, kdy si můžete dát polévku a nápoje, přičemž plná nabídka jídel je k dispozici od jedenácté hodiny. Večerní menu se podává až do půl desáté, takže sem v klidu stihnete dorazit i po západu slunce.

Kuchyně se zaměřuje především na poctivou tradiční českou gastronomii a vedení restaurace si zakládá na tom, že vaří výhradně z čerstvých surovin, nikoliv z polotovarů. Právě vysoká kvalita vstupních ingrediencí a náročná logistika dopravy surovin na vrchol hory se přirozeně odráží ve vyšších cenách na lístku. Menu pro aktuální sezónu najdete vždy na webových stránkách restaurace.

Interiéry restaurace navíc procházejí postupným návratem do své původní podoby ze sedmdesátých let, takže obědváte v autentickém retro prostředí. Vzhledem k obrovskému zájmu turistů se důrazně doporučuje vytvořit si předem rezervaci, a to nejlépe telefonicky mezi devátou ranní a osmou hodinou večerní. Bez rezervace se vám v hlavní sezóně může snadno stát, že si na volný stůl docela dlouho počkáte.

lukas a lucka
Lukáš a Lucie doporučují
Kde se ubytovat na Ještědu
5 ubytování — resorty, hotely a další možnosti ubytování

5. Noc v oblacích v Horském hotelu Ještěd

Pokud chcete zažít něco naprosto výjimečného a nevadí vám si za zážitek trochu připlatit, zarezervujte si nocleh přímo ve vysílači. Horský hotel Ještěd nabízí kapacitu kolem pětačtyřiceti lůžek a patří mezi nejunikátnější ubytovací kapacity ve střední Evropě. Pokoje jsou umístěny v samotném plášti hyperboloidu, takže okna směřují dolů do údolí a vy máte pocit, že se vznášíte nad krajinou.

Hotel neustále pracuje na tom, aby si zachoval svého historického ducha, a některé pokoje se tak už plně vrátily k původnímu retro designu podle architekta Otakara Binara. Můžete si vybrat z několika kategorií od základní třídy Economy, přes pohodlnější Comfort a Retro, až po prostorné rodinné apartmá, které pojme až šest osob. Ke každému pobytu navíc dostanete bohatou snídani, kterou si vychutnáte v prosklené restauraci ještě dřív, než nahoru dorazí první davy turistů.

Tím vůbec největším tahákem je ale samotná atmosféra, kterou zažijete pouze jako ubytovaní hosté. Sledovat z postele ranní východ slunce nebo noční rozzářený Liberec je zkrátka k nezaplacení. Vedení hotelu doporučuje provádět rezervace napřímo přes jejich oficiální webové stránky, kde často najdete ty nejvýhodnější podmínky a garantovanou dostupnost vysněného pokoje.

6. Zimní lyžovačka ve Skiareálu Ještěd

Když napadne první sníh, Ještěd se z turistického cíle promění v ráj pro všechny milovníky zimních sportů. Skiareál Ještěd nabízí celkem dvanáct sjezdovek a jedenáct vleků či lanovek, které dohromady tvoří přes jedenáct kilometrů upravovaných tratí. Sezóna zde obvykle startuje na konci listopadu a trvá až do poloviny března, přičemž téměř devět kilometrů sjezdovek lze uměle zasněžovat, takže sněhová pokrývka je zaručena.

Obrovskou výhodou tohoto areálu je jeho perfektní dopravní dostupnost. Jako do jednoho z mála lyžařských středisek v Evropě sem dojedete přímo městskou tramvají z centra Liberce, a z Prahy vám cesta autem zabere jen něco málo přes hodinu. Většina návštěvníků využívá k parkování hlavní plochu P1 přímo u areálu, kde zaplatíte 200 Kč na den a můžete rovnou nazout lyžáky.

Hlavním tahákem posledních let je moderní sjezdovka Nová Skalka, která nabízí špičkové parametry pro sportovní i rekreační lyžaře. Areál nezapomíná ani na fanoušky večerního ježdění, pro které je připraveno čtyři sta metrů osvětlené trati v čase od šesti do devíti hodin večer. Ceny skipasů se pravidelně upravují, proto je nejlepší zakoupit je s předstihem v online předprodeji na oficiálních stránkách střediska.

7. Letní adrenalin v Bikeparku a na koloběžkách

Jakmile sleze sníh, areál rozhodně neusíná, právě naopak. Cyklisté, koloběžkáři i rodiče s dětmi sem míří celé léto. Srdcem letního provozu je Bikepark Ještěd, který láká cyklisty na skvěle udržovaný flow trail a technickou skill zone, kde si mohou pilovat své dovednosti. K dispozici je samozřejmě i kompletní půjčovna kol, včetně stále populárnějších e-biků, díky kterým vyjedete zdejší kopce bez zbytečného trápení.

Pokud nejste zrovna fanoušky šlapání do pedálů, můžete vyzkoušet sjezd na robustních terénních koloběžkách, které si rovněž zapůjčíte přímo na místě. Koloběžka vás bezpečně sveze po vyznačených trasách a je to fantastická zábava pro dospělé i starší děti. Nahoru k začátku tratí vás pohodlně vyveze letní provoz sedačkové lanovky Skalka, která funguje celé prázdniny denně a na podzim o víkendech.

Areál myslí i na ty nejmenší návštěvníky, pro které jsou připraveny nejrůznější dětské atrakce. V letních měsících tu děti najdou velké trampolíny, hřiště a dokonce i ohradu s ovečkami, což z místa dělá ideální cíl pro celodenní rodinný výlet. Pro přesné ceny půjčovného a otevírací doby jednotlivých atrakcí doporučuji sledovat aktuální informace na portálu skijested.cz.

8. Pěší výstup po hřebenovce z Černého kopce

Pokud se chcete vyhnout prudkému stoupání od Liberce, ale přesto toužíte dojít na vrchol po svých, tato trasa je pro vás jako stvořená. Výlet začíná na horní stanici sedačkové lanovky Skalka, která vás pohodlně vyveze na úbočí Černého kopce. Tím si ušetříte ty nejnáročnější výškové metry a zbude vám spousta energie na samotný hřebenový přechod směrem k ikonickému vysílači.

Od horní stanice lanovky se napojíte na červenou turistickou značku, která se vine převážně po hřebeni a nabízí nádherné výhledy do okolní krajiny. Tento závěrečný úsek měří necelé dva kilometry a celkové převýšení činí pouhých 140 metrů, což z něj dělá velmi příjemnou procházku. Cesta vede lesem i částečně otevřeným terénem, takže si užijete ten pravý horský vzduch bez extrémní fyzické zátěže.

Při klidném tempu zvládnete tuto trasu za necelou hodinu, takže je naprosto ideální pro rodiny se školními dětmi nebo pro sváteční výletníky. Během letní sezóny jezdí lanovka Skalka každý den, takže si tento hřebenový výšlap můžete naplánovat prakticky kdykoliv. Nezapomeňte si jen předem ověřit čas poslední jízdy lanovky zpět do údolí, abyste nemuseli šlapat dolů pěšky po tmě.

9. Magické zimní inverze a západy slunce

Existuje jeden přírodní úkaz, který dělá z návštěvy Ještědu naprosto snový zážitek, a kvůli kterému se sem sjíždějí fotografové z celé republiky. Během podzimních a zimních měsíců se zde velmi často tvoří takzvaná teplotní inverze. Znamená to, že zatímco celý Liberec a okolní údolí leží pod neprostupnou šedivou dekou nízké oblačnosti a lidé dole mrznou, vy na vrcholu kopce stojíte na jasném sluníčku.

Ten pohled je naprosto fascinující, protože se kolem vás rozprostírá nekonečné moře bílých mraků, ze kterého vystupují jen ty nejvyšší vrcholky Jizerských hor a Krkonoš jako ostrovy v oceánu. Právě tento fenomén je důvodem, proč se vždy před výletem vyplatí zkontrolovat záběry z webkamer. Může se totiž stát, že i když je u vás doma pošmourno a mlha, nahoře vás čeká ten nejkrásnější slunečný den.

Zážitek z inverze se navíc násobí ve chvíli, kdy se den chýlí ke konci a slunce začne klesat k obzoru. Západy slunce nad vrstvou mraků barví oblohu do neskutečných odstínů růžové a fialové. Ten pohled prostě fotka nikdy úplně nepodchytí. Pokud máte možnost, naplánujte si svůj výlet tak, abyste na vrcholu zůstali právě až do podvečerních hodin, ten pohled se vám navždy vryje do paměti.

10. Stezka ještědských pověstí pro rodiny s dětmi

Výlet na horu nemusí být jen o sportovních výkonech a architektuře, skvěle se tu zabaví i rodiny s dětmi. Skiareál Ještěd připravil pro nejmenší návštěvníky zábavnou Stezku ještědských pověstí, která hravou formou propojuje pohyb v přírodě s poznáváním lokální historie. Stezka vede po upravených turistických cestách a je navržena tak, aby udržela dětskou pozornost po celou dobu pochodu.

Během putování po stezce narazíte na několik zastavení, kde se prostřednictvím dřevěných soch a informačních tabulí seznámíte s bájnými postavami z okolních lesů. Děti se dozvědí spoustu zajímavostí o tom, jací skřítci a strašidla podle starých vyprávění obývali Ještědsko-kozákovský hřbet. Je to fantastický způsob, jak ratolesti motivovat k chůzi, aniž byste neustále poslouchali tradiční otázku, kdy už tam konečně budete.

Ke stezce se navíc váže bonus: trampolíny a ohrada s ovečkami, které se tu přes léto pasou a děti u nich stráví klidně další hodinu. Pokud potřebujete poradit s trasou nebo zjistit aktuální stav atrakcí, infolinka areálu bere od osmi do půl páté.

11. Zastávka u Bistra 1012 a občerstvení Rohanka

Ne každý má při výletu čas nebo chuť posedět v hlavní restauraci s obsluhou, a přesně pro tyto případy je vrchol Ještědu skvěle vybaven. Přímo na venkovním ochozu budovy funguje oblíbené Bistro 1012, které je jako stvořené pro rychlé doplnění energie. Bistro mívá v letní sezóně otevřeno obvykle od devíti ráno do pěti odpoledne a nabízí základní občerstvení, které si můžete vychutnat přímo s výhledem na okolní panorama.

Ještě o něco uvolněnější atmosféru nabízí venkovní občerstvení Rohanka, které se nachází kousek pod samotným vysílačem a v létě otevírá rovněž v devět hodin ráno. Tady si můžete v klidu sednout na lavičku, koupit si točenou limonádu, rychlou svačinu a v horkých letních dnech nechybí ani tolik žádaná zmrzlina pro děti. Je to ideální zastávka ve chvíli, kdy máte za sebou náročný výšlap z Hanychova a potřebujete okamžitou vzpruhu.

Tato rychlá občerstvení oceníte především o víkendech a svátcích, kdy bývá hlavní restaurace plně obsazená a před vstupem se tvoří fronta. Díky Bistru 1012 a Rohance tak máte jistotu, že i v ten nejvytíženější den na kopci rozhodně nezůstanete o hladu a žízni, a navíc neztratíte drahocenný čas dlouhým čekáním na stůl.

12. Cesta s kočárkem ze sedla Výpřež

Dobýt tento slavný vrchol můžete bez větších problémů i tehdy, pokud s sebou vezete nejmladšího člena rodiny v kočárku. Oficiální data z portálu Úžasná místa potvrzují, že Ještěd je pro výlety s kočárkem velmi dobře uzpůsoben, stačí si jen vybrat tu správnou trasu. Červené turistické značky vedoucí po hřebeni z Černého kopce jsou plné kořenů a kamenů, a proto se jim s kolečky raději obloukem vyhněte.

Tou vůbec nejlepší a nejosvědčenější variantou je vyrazit z parkoviště v sedle Výpřež přímo po asfaltové silničce. Trasa je dlouhá přesně tři kilometry a celou dobu půjdete po zpevněné cestě, která se vine v příjemném a pozvolném stoupání. V klidném rodinném tempu vám cesta zabere zhruba pětasedmdesát minut a odměnou vám budou krásné výhledy do lesů podél silnice.

Pokud by pro vás i tato varianta byla příliš náročná, nebo vás nahoře zastihlo špatné počasí, existuje ještě jedno záložní řešení. Až k samotné budově vysílače se dá zcela bezbariérově vyjet vlastním autem, což je obrovská výhoda pro rodiny s malými miminky nebo pro návštěvníky s omezenou hybností. Parkování přímo nahoře vás vyjde na 250 Kč za den, ale zajistí vám ten nejvyšší možný komfort bez nutnosti udělat jediný náročný krok.

Kdy na Ještěd vyrazit

Výlet na tuto dominantu severních Čech si užijete v každém ročním období, ale je potřeba počítat s tím, že hora má svá specifika. Počasí se tu mění neuvěřitelně rychle a často se výrazně liší od podmínek dole v Liberci. Než vyrazíte z domu, vždy se vyplatí zkontrolovat aktuální situaci přes webkamery, které najdete například na portálech skijested.cz nebo ceskehory.cz.

Zatímco v létě lákají především dlouhé dny a příjemné teploty na cyklistiku a turistiku, podzim a zima mají úplně jiné kouzlo. Zimní inverze, kdy stojíte na slunci nad neprostupným mořem mraků, patří k nejkrásnějším přírodním úkazům široko daleko. Pamatujte ale na to, že na vrcholu bývá téměř vždy výrazně větrněji a chladněji než v údolí, takže i v parném létě byste měli mít v batohu přibalenou spolehlivou větrovku.

Praktické tipy na závěr

Při plánování výletu se vám určitě bude hodit pár drobných rad, které vám ušetří čas i starosti přímo na místě:

  • 💡 Tip: Pokud jedete nahoru autem, připravte si na parkoviště U Ještědky bankovky nebo mince, místní automat totiž přijímá pouze hotovost.
  • 💡 Tip: Rezervaci stolu v hlavní restauraci řešte s dostatečným předstihem po telefonu, během víkendů bývá beznadějně plno a bez rezervace si nesednete.
  • 💡 Tip: Místo je oficiálně označeno jako vhodné pro psy, takže svého čtyřnohého parťáka můžete bez obav vzít na výlet po turistických trasách s sebou.
  • 💡 Tip: Nezapomeňte si vzít více vrstev oblečení, pocitová teplota na větrném ochozu kolem vysílače je často mnohem nižší, než ukazuje teploměr.
  • 💡 Tip: Pro nejlepší fotky architektury s modrou oblohou vyrazte brzy ráno nebo naopak v podvečer, vyhnete se tak nejostřejšímu polednímu slunci i davům turistů.

Kam dál

Pokud se chystáte strávit v regionu více času, určitě se podívejte na mého podrobného průvodce Liberec: co vidět, kde najdete spoustu dalších tipů na výlety v okolí. Pro širší inspiraci doporučuji článek Kam na dovolenou v severních Čechách, případně můžete prozkoumat tipy Kam na dovolenou v Česku. Rodiny s dětmi určitě ocení přehled Nejlepší aquaparky v ČR a v zimním období nevynechejte ani Vánoční trhy v Liberci.

Často kladené otázky

Kolik stojí jedna noc na Ještědu?

Nejlevnější pokoje kategorie Economy v Horském hotelu Ještěd začínají zhruba na 2 700 Kč za noc. Prostornější pokoje Comfort a Retro vyjdou zhruba na 4 450 Kč a za velké rodinné apartmá zaplatíte okolo deseti tisíc korun. V ceně každého pobytu je vždy zahrnuta výborná snídaně.

Jak dlouho trvá cesta na Ještěd?

Pokud zaparkujete na nejbližším parkovišti U Ještědky, dojdete nahoru pohodlně za 15 až 20 minut. Výšlap s kočárkem ze vzdálenějšího sedla Výpřež zabere zhruba pětasedmdesát minut. Z konečné zastávky tramvaje v Horním Hanychově počítejte s náročnějším výstupem, který vám zabere hodinu a půl až dvě hodiny.

Kolik stojí vstupné na Ještěd?

Vstup na samotný vrchol hory i přístup k budově televizního vysílače je zcela zdarma. Neplatí se zde žádné vstupné, protože v areálu nefunguje žádná klasická placená rozhledna. Vašimi jedinými náklady tak budou poplatky za parkování, případně útrata za jídlo a občerstvení v místní restauraci či bufetu.

Jak se dostat nahoru na Ještěd?

Využít můžete několik tras pro pěší turisty z Horního Hanychova nebo ze sedla Výpřež, které je dostupné autem. Výstup si lze výrazně usnadnit letní sedačkovou lanovkou Skalka, od které je to na vrchol necelá hodina chůze po hřebeni. Až přímo k budově se dá případně vyjet i autem.

Jezdí lanovka na Ještěd?

Tradiční kabinová lanovka z Horního Hanychova je od tragické nehody v říjnu 2021 trvale mimo provoz a čeká na vybudování zcela nové dráhy. V provozu je pouze sedačková lanovka Skalka ze skiareálu, která jezdí v letní i zimní sezóně a vyveze vás na Černý kopec nedaleko vrcholu.

Dá se na Ještěd s kočárkem?

Ano, místo je pro výlety s kočárkem velmi dobře přístupné. Nejlepší a nejpohodlnější trasou je zhruba tříkilometrová zpevněná silnička ze sedla Výpřež, která mírně stoupá a zabere vám přibližně pětasedmdesát minut. Zcela bezbariérově pak můžete vyjet s kočárkem autem až na parkoviště přímo u hotelu.

Dá se na Ještěd se psem?

Určitě ano, lokalita je oficiálně hodnocena jako vhodná pro návštěvu se psy a na turistických trasách i v okolí vysílače potkáte spoustu pejskařů. Své čtyřnohé miláčky tak můžete bez obav vzít na pěší výlet, jen je na frekventovaných místech a úzkých pěšinách raději mějte na vodítku.

Vyplatí se na Ještědu přespat?

Přenocování v Horském hotelu Ještěd patří k nejunikátnějším zážitkům v České republice a rozhodně stojí za to. Pokoje v retro stylu nabízejí fantastický výhled z oken směřujících dolů do údolí a ráno si můžete v naprostém soukromí užít magický východ slunce dříve, než na horu dorazí první turisté.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Kamenice Gorges: 4 Boat Trip Tips and What to Know in 2026

When people think of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, the famous Pravčická Gate is usually the first thing that comes to mind. Hot on its heels, though, come the deep sandstone canyons of the Kamenice river — and the Kamenice Gorges in Czechia rank among the most beautiful outings you can find here. Travelers have long praised how gliding through the quiet, cool landscape, with tall, sheer cliffs rising on every side, has an amazing, almost mystical atmosphere.

Let’s take a look together at everything the Kamenice Gorges have to offer. From research and other travelers’ stories, it’s clear you’re in for a wonderful experience full of romance and plenty of funny anecdotes from the local boatmen. I’ll show you how to get to the river, where to park cleverly, and what to watch out for regarding the current operations after the recent large wildfire, which sadly hit part of this stunning place.

TL;DR

  • A romantic ride on a traditional flat-bottomed punt, pushed along by a boatman with a long pole.
  • Two main sections of the canyon — the shorter Wild Gorge and the longer Edmund (Silent) Gorge.
  • Current operations may still be limited due to the aftermath of the major 2022 forest fire.
  • Boat tickets can’t be booked online in advance — you always buy them on the spot.
  • The starting point is the picturesque village of Hřensko, which holds the record as the lowest-lying municipality in Czechia.

When and how to visit the gorges

Planning a trip to this part of the national park takes a bit of preparation and checking the latest information. Nature here has been through a tough ordeal in recent years, and the operating rules can change depending on safety. Below you’ll find the most important practical tips so you know what to expect in advance and how much all the fun costs.

The main boating season on the Kamenice river traditionally starts in April and runs until roughly early November. Boats usually operate daily from nine in the morning until half past five in the evening. While there’s no entrance fee for the national park itself, you do need to open your wallet for the boat ride. For the shorter Wild Gorge, a ticket is around €3.50 (80 CZK) for an adult. For the longer Edmund Gorge the fee used to be around €5 (120 CZK), but the situation there is a bit more complicated.

In the summer of 2022, the Edmund Gorge was badly hit by an extensive forest fire. The flames damaged trails, trees, and infrastructure, and the overall restoration of this deep valley is extremely complex and slow. Operations in this section can therefore vary and are often restricted for safety reasons. It’s absolutely crucial to check the current status before every trip on the website of the village of Hřensko or on the pages of the National Park Administration. That way you’ll save yourself any disappointment on arrival.

💡 Tip: Boat tickets can’t be bought online in advance — you have to get them at the ticket office by the landing dock. Experienced travelers recommend choosing the route heading toward Hřensko (not from Hřensko upstream) and arriving early in the morning, so you avoid the biggest crowds and long queues for the boats.

How to get to the gorges

Whether you decide to drive or prefer public transport, the journey to northern Bohemia, right by the German border, is fairly comfortable. The starting point for exploring the canyons is the village of Hřensko, which serves as the main gateway to the whole area.

If you drive from major regional hubs, the route runs mostly along the D8 motorway, from which you turn off toward Děčín. Note that driving in Czechia requires a motorway vignette (a toll sticker, much like the ones used in Austria or Switzerland). Parking right in Hřensko can be a huge headache in the peak summer season. Spots fill up incredibly fast and it’s often hopelessly full by mid-morning. A handy alternative is to try your luck at the Mezní Louka car park, from where you can walk down to the gorges along a lovely hiking trail.

You can also get here very easily without a car. Just hop on a comfortable train to Děčín and then continue on the local bus number 434, which takes you straight to the hiking trails. A truly unique experience is said to be arriving in Hřensko aboard a sightseeing boat on the Elbe river, which adds an extra touch of romance to the whole trip.

Where to stay nearby

Bohemian Switzerland is such a magical region that it definitely deserves more than just a rushed day trip. Around the gorges you’ll find plenty of lovely places to rest your head after a full day of walking and enjoy the real evening calm once most day-trippers have headed back home.

Strategically, it’s best to look for accommodation right in the heart of the action or at the surrounding elevated crossroads of hiking trails. Hotel Mezní Louka looks really nice — it sits just a short walk from the park entrance and the gorges themselves. It has its own restaurant and, above all, spacious parking, which saves you a lot of morning hassle. If you want to stay right in the starting village and have the boats truly within arm’s reach, the historic Hotel Praha Hřensko is a great choice. The building has a wonderful period atmosphere, and the windows look straight out onto the surrounding sandstone cliffs.

What to experience in the Kamenice Gorges

A visit to this magical valley offers far more than an ordinary walk through the woods. Let’s go through 4 specific tips for the spots and experiences that make the Kamenice Gorges so popular and keep people coming back.

1. A punt ride with a boatman

The traditional ride on a green flat-bottomed punt is, without any debate, the main draw of the whole trip. They say the view from the water’s surface up at the tall cliffs covered in moss and ferns is simply unforgettable. The whole experience is heightened by the boatman himself, who quietly pushes the boat forward using a long wooden pole.

During the slow ride, these connoisseurs of the local waters will serve up plenty of interesting facts and add more than one funny story about the surrounding rock formations, which from certain angles resemble various animals or fairy-tale characters. It’s worth knowing that private rides aren’t allowed here. If you were hoping to bring your own paddleboard or inflatable boat, you’ll have to leave them at home. The whole operation is run exclusively by the village of Hřensko, and only the official operator is allowed to take you along.

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Where to stay near Kamenice Gorges
3 accommodations — hotels and other lodging options

2. The Wild Gorge

The Wild Gorge is the shorter but all the more tight and dramatic part of the Kamenice river canyon. It’s about 450 meters long, and the ride takes a pleasant fifteen minutes. The cliffs tower high above your head here, and the water often takes on a beautifully dark color that reflects the surrounding trees. Travelers describe the microclimate here as very refreshing and cool even in the sweltering summer heat.

The entrance fee for this section is around €3.50 (80 CZK), and the boats shuttle back and forth at regular intervals depending on how many people gather. The trail to the Wild Gorge runs along suspended walkways and tunnels carved into the rock, which alone promises a great adventure, even for families with children.

3. The Edmund (Silent) Gorge and its state after the fire

The Edmund Gorge, often called the Silent Gorge by locals, is the longer and historically more visited part. It measures almost a kilometer, and the boat ride here takes a little longer, roughly twenty minutes. It’s named after Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen, who at the end of the nineteenth century was responsible for building the first hiking trails in this inaccessible landscape.

Unfortunately, this is exactly the area that suffered enormous damage during the aforementioned fire in 2022. The blaze left behind destroyed trees and destabilized rock blocks. Even though nature is slowly but surely starting to recover and turn green, the safety risks remain. The park administration therefore has to proceed very cautiously, and the boat operations and passability of the trails in the Edmund Gorge may be suspended for these reasons. I’ll remind you once again — check the current situation just before you set off.

4. Hřensko as the starting point

Hřensko itself is definitely more than an impersonal car park where you leave your car and disappear into the forest. This picturesque village of half-timbered houses sits right at the confluence of the Elbe and Kamenice rivers and boasts a rather interesting geographical record. It’s the lowest-lying municipality in Czechia, at an altitude of around 115 meters.

You’ll find plenty of small cafés, stalls, and traditional inns here where you can rest before the journey home. For understandable reasons, the local restaurants often tempt you with various forest and game specialties in the form of goulashes or roasted meat. But if you prefer meat-free fare, you certainly won’t go wrong choosing a hearty fried cheese with potatoes, golden-fried potato pancakes, or one of the traditional Czech soups to warm you up.

Where to go next

If this part of the country has won you over and you plan to explore the wider area, be sure to draw inspiration from our other articles and trip tips. You’ll discover that northern Bohemia has much more to offer.

Frequently asked questions

Can tickets for the boat rides be purchased in advance online?

No, tickets can only be purchased in person on site directly at the ticket office by the boat dock. Definitely bring enough cash with you just in case, as the signal for card terminals can sometimes be unstable in the deep gorge.

Can you navigate the gorges on your own boat or paddleboard?

Private boating on any personal watercraft is strictly prohibited to protect the fragile local nature and the safety of visitors themselves. The water experience is provided exclusively by official boats with trained boatmen from the village of Hřensko.

Is there an entrance fee for the national park as well?

Entry to Bohemian Switzerland National Park itself is completely free. You only pay for the boat ride in the gorges and of course you need to budget for all-day parking fees for your car.

What about bringing a dog on the boat?

Dogs are usually allowed on the boat for a small fee, but for safety reasons they must wear a muzzle and be on a leash at all times. Even so, it’s recommended to check the official website beforehand and verify the current conditions for transporting animals.

Are the gorges open in winter too?

No, the boating season traditionally starts around Easter in April and ends at the beginning of November. During the cold winter months the boats are pulled ashore and the popular gorges remain completely out of operation.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

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Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

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