Lukáš and I have been returning to Bohemian Switzerland for many years, and we are always amazed all over again by how majestic Pravčická Gate looks when you reach it along the forest path. It is exactly the kind of place where, after a hike, we happily order our favourite fried cheese with fries, sit down with a view over the valley and enjoy the incredible sense of peace that northern Bohemia seems to radiate.
This vast region, however, offers far more than the sandstone rocks around Hřensko. You will find deep forests, extinct volcanoes, mysterious castles and crystal-clear lakes that many people have never even heard of, so you could spend weeks here and still have plenty left to discover.
I have prepared a comprehensive 2026 guide for you, taking in the most beautiful places from the Lusatian Mountains to the Bohemian Paradise. You will find out which lakes are best avoided in summer, where to stay, how to save money on transport and why it is sometimes worth getting up really early.
TL;DR
- Sandstone rocks and viewpoints: Pravčická Gate and the Kamenice Gorges are absolute classics, but the Prachov Rocks and Jetřichovice viewpoints are also well worth exploring.
- Castles and history: The imposing Kost Castle, romantic Bezděz above the lake and mysterious Trosky form an inseparable part of the region’s silhouette.
- Swimming without blue-green algae: Máchovo Lake struggles with water quality, but flooded quarries such as Lake Milada, Lake Most and Lake Barbora offer wonderfully clean water throughout the summer.
- Mountains and lookout towers: A hike up Ještěd and walks through the beech forests of the Jizera Mountains should not be missing from your itinerary.
- Travelling with children: Liberec Zoo, iQLANDIA and the wheelchair-accessible Fénix viewpoint can keep families entertained for many days.
- Free transport: If you stay in Bohemian Switzerland for two nights, you receive a DÚKpass, giving you free travel throughout the Ústí nad Labem Region.
The full destination guide: Czechia — guide and what to see
When to Visit Northern Bohemia
Northern Bohemia is beautiful all year round, but if you want to experience the region at its best without being squeezed into crowds, May, June and September are ideal. The lakes are usually pleasantly warm by then, the fresh spring greenery is glowing, and you avoid the main influx of families with school-age children. May and June in particular offer the most peaceful conditions on the most popular hiking trails.
During the summer holidays, be prepared for Hřensko and the area around Pravčická Gate to become extremely busy. If you visit in August, you need to be at the entrances first thing in the morning; otherwise, you may spend hours in queues or even miss out on a boat trip because capacity is very limited. Most people head into the deep gorges between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., so ideally avoid this window.
Allow ideally seven to ten days to explore the whole region, as the distances between Bohemian Switzerland and the Bohemian Paradise are fairly considerable and you cannot cover everything from one base. You could, for example, spend three days among the sandstone rocks, two days in Liberec and the rest somewhere by the water.
If you are planning a winter visit, remember that many castles and gorges are naturally closed. On the other hand, the snow-covered Jizera Mountains offer perfect peace and beautifully groomed cross-country ski tracks. In summer, keep a close eye on the current fire-risk indicator, which strictly limits movement in the forests when the risk is high. When a high-risk level is in force, you may walk only on marked trails, and entering the forest at night is completely prohibited.
Where to Stay in Northern Bohemia
Finding good accommodation is the absolute foundation of any successful holiday. That is why I have selected several excellent, tried-and-tested options across the region, all with outstanding ratings. I know very well how lovely it is to collapse into a clean bed after a day out, knowing that a wonderful breakfast is waiting for you in the morning.
Right on the edge of the national park lies the wonderful Penzion Zvoneček in Vysoká Lípa, where a double room costs around €90 per night (2,160 CZK). Guests repeatedly praise the incredibly kind owner and fantastic breakfasts made with local ingredients. If you are looking to relax after your hikes, try the peaceful Penzion Mezi buky in Chřibská (around €60 per night), which has a lovely sauna and makes an excellent base for trips towards the Lusatian Mountains.
For families with children, Farma Růžová near Děčín is absolutely ideal. Parents praise the generous royal breakfasts and the very friendly animals that children can visit straight from their room. If, on the other hand, you are dreaming of comfort right by the water, head to Hotel Port in Doksy. This renowned four-star resort (around €160 per night) boasts a private sandy beach and a large indoor pool.
In the Bohemian Paradise, the guesthouse U Zlaté brány in Libuň, near the Prachov Rocks, offers the best value for money. Visitors often mention the owner’s unbeatable hospitality and the pleasant wellness facilities. And if you are looking for something truly unique, you can stay right inside the iconic tower at Hotel Ještěd. A night among the clouds costs around €190, but bear in mind that it is more of an experience than a luxury stay. Most of the historic rooms have shared bathrooms along the corridor, and powerful outdoor spotlights may shine into your windows at night.
Northern Bohemia: 15 Best Places to Visit
Now let’s look at specific ideas for everything you can see and experience in this wonderfully diverse region. I have put together a list of fifteen places combining natural wonders with historic gems, along with the most important practical information for this season.
1. Pravčická Gate
Pravčická Gate is the ultimate symbol of the entire region. With an impressive span of 26.5 metres, it is the largest natural sandstone arch in continental Europe. This is a place filled with incredible romance—after all, the famous Danish fairytale author Hans Christian Andersen once walked here. Entrance costs €5 for adults and €2 for children and seniors (125 CZK and 50 CZK respectively). The site is open daily from the end of March until October, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
I must, however, give you a strong warning about the huge crowds. The only access route leads through the historic Sokolí hnízdo chateau, built by Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen as early as 1881. If you arrive at 10 a.m., you will very likely be standing in a long queue on the narrow stairs. For many years, access directly onto the sandstone arch itself has been strictly prohibited because of its fragility.
💡 Tip: Plan your visit so that you reach the ticket office early, ideally before 10 a.m., or instead in the late afternoon. The biggest crowds have eased by then, and you can enjoy the magical atmosphere in peace. The best views open up from the surrounding rock platforms, where you can easily photograph the gate in all its glory. From Hřensko, you can take a bus and get off at the Tři prameny stop, then walk uphill.
2. The Kamenice Gorges
Divoká Gorge offers a wonderfully atmospheric boat trip on a punt through a deep rock canyon, covering around 450 metres. The season runs from 1 April to 1 November. Boats operate daily from 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and the great advantage is that you do not need to book this trip in advance. Admission is €8 for adults and €4 for children (200 CZK and 100 CZK respectively).
The good news for families with younger children is that the friendly boatmen will take a folded pushchair onto the boat completely free of charge. During the trip, you will hear an amusing commentary about sandstone formations resembling various animals and fairytale characters. The shady canyon is incredibly refreshing on a hot summer day and offers a welcome escape from the sun.
💡 Tip: The better-known Edmund’s Gorge operates under completely different rules and is opening only on 18 June this year. Access is permitted only with a guide, in very limited groups of twenty-five people. A ticket costs €16, you must buy it directly at the entrance in Hřensko, and it often sells out early in the morning. The municipality of Hřensko regularly posts current capacity on its social media, so it is definitely worth checking its profiles in advance.
3. Fénix Viewpoint and Mlýnská Trail
Following the devastating fire in 2022, the popular Gabriela Trail is unfortunately still closed. The national park has prepared an excellent alternative in the form of the Mlýnská Trail, which begins in Mezní Louka. It takes you directly through the recovering fire site, where a new young forest full of birch and oak is growing surprisingly quickly. Nature is showing its full strength here, demonstrating how rapidly it can recover from such a huge catastrophe.
The biggest draw on this route is the brand-new Fénix lookout platform, which only opened to the public recently. It has an excellent telescope aimed directly at the rocks around Pravčická Gate. Best of all, the viewpoint is completely wheelchair-accessible when approached from the village of Mezná. You can reach it easily with a pushchair or by bike, a major advantage for families in an otherwise very hilly national park.
💡 Tip: A brand-new cross-border hiking trail has also been open since April. This route of more than two kilometres connects Fénix Viewpoint with the educational area in Schmilka, Germany. The path runs down a steep forest slope directly alongside the state border and is ideal for a more adventurous full-day trip away from the biggest tourist crowds.
4. Jetřichovice Viewpoints
If you are looking for a slightly quieter alternative to busy Hřensko, the Jetřichovice viewpoints are the right choice. The trio of famous peaks—Mariina, Vilemínina and Rudolfova viewpoints—offers breathtaking views across the national park’s rolling, forested landscape. The iconic Mariina viewpoint also received careful maintenance in May, when its wooden summit gazebo was given a brand-new coat of oil, so it is once again shining beautifully across the surrounding countryside.
The climb to the gazebos is somewhat demanding, as the paths run up steep stone steps and along narrow trails. The view from the top is absolutely worth the effort, though. During August, the national park administration also organises guided walks with a local ranger, offering an excellent opportunity to learn plenty of interesting facts about the area’s unique nature.
💡 Tip: When you return from your hike pleasantly tired, head to the local swimming pool in Jetřichovice, right on the Chřibská Kamenice stream. According to public-health officials, the water is consistently excellent and clean for swimming. It is wonderfully peaceful, entrance is inexpensive, and you can reliably avoid the crowds heading to the larger lakes. There is no lifeguard, but it is the perfect way to cool off after a hike among the rocks.
5. Tisá Walls
Not far from Děčín lies a fantastic sandstone rock city that you may recognise from the big screen. The Tisá Walls were the setting for the famous winter scenes in the Hollywood film The Chronicles of Narnia. As you walk through the narrow passages between the tall towers, you genuinely feel as if you have entered a completely different magical world, where a fairytale creature could be waiting around the next corner.
The area has two main circuits, simply called the Small and Large Walls. Families with children can comfortably manage both routes, as the elevation gain is not dramatic and the paths are well maintained. You pay the entrance fee at the ticket office by the entrance, and the price is very reasonable. The whole visit, including time for photos, takes roughly two to three hours of very leisurely walking. The maze of rock towers, dark caves and deep overhangs sparks children’s imaginations like few other places.
💡 Tip: Be sure to pick up a map showing the names of the individual rock formations at the ticket office. Searching for Elephant’s Foot or Frog’s Crown is just as much fun for adults as it is for children.
6. Máchovo Lake and Bezděz Castle
The Máchovo region evokes the romanticism of the Czech poet Karel Hynek Mácha, but this year I must add a very honest warning. Máchovo Lake is relatively shallow and warms up quickly in summer, which unfortunately creates ideal conditions for green algae. Public-health officials in Liberec reported blue-green algae at practically every measurement during the 2026 season, starting right at the beginning of June, and at all five main beaches. At the end of June, the water temperature even reached an astonishing 29°C. The previous year, swimming was strictly prohibited at the popular Borný Beach, so always check the latest water-quality reports before travelling and keep a Plan B in reserve.
Luckily, you can lift your spirits with a trip to the beautiful Gothic Bezděz Castle, perched on a hill directly above the lake. Admission without a guide is €7 for adults and €2 for children (180 CZK and 50 CZK respectively), but pay close attention to the approach. The climb from the car park is a genuinely steep ascent over large stones, so definitely leave your pushchair in the car and carry younger children in a baby carrier.
💡 Tip: With good planning, you can even save money. On Sunday 30 August and 27 September 2026, admission to Bezděz is completely free, but you must reserve a free ticket through the online presale in good time. A magical Castle Night also takes place here on 22 August, featuring a unique concert with crystal singing bowls in the Gothic chapel itself.
7. Trosky and Kost Castle
The Bohemian Paradise is home to two completely different yet equally fascinating castles, located roughly twenty kilometres apart. Thanks to its two towers, Panna and Baba, built on steep basalt volcanic plugs, Trosky can be seen from far away. You can explore it independently without a guide for €7. Gothic Kost Castle, by contrast, is hidden in a deep valley surrounded by forests and sandstone. It is considered one of the best-preserved castles in the country; visits are guided, and it is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
One particularly interesting thing about Kost Castle is that dogs on leads are welcome, even inside the guided interiors, and at no extra charge. This is an absolute rarity at Czech state-run and private heritage sites, and dog owners will appreciate it enormously. When you get hungry after your visit, the U Draka restaurant just below the castle has a large outdoor terrace where you can relax.
💡 Tip: Just as at Bezděz, admission to Trosky is completely free on Sunday 30 August and 27 September 2026. Do not forget to reserve your free ticket online in advance, though, as capacity is understandably limited.
8. Prachov Rocks
The Prachov Rocks are the absolute heart of the Bohemian Paradise and offer some of the most beautiful sandstone labyrinths in the country. In the main summer season, admission costs €8 for adults and all-day parking costs €4 (200 CZK and 100 CZK respectively). The great thing is that your entry ticket and parking ticket are valid all day, so you can walk one circuit in the morning, drive somewhere nearby for a good lunch and return to the rocks in the afternoon at your leisure.
The rock city opens as early as 7 a.m., and trust me, the first hour of the morning is practically empty. That is a real luxury in summer and absolutely worth getting up early for. Adventurous visitors can take the green circuit through the famous narrow Mouse Hole. Families with young children will appreciate the comfortable blue route, which is easy to walk and the only one accessible even with an all-terrain pushchair.
💡 Tip: If you want to avoid the main tourist rush at the large central car park, drive to the smaller ticket office by the Bohemian Paradise Nature Museum. Entry to the rocks is much quieter from there. At the end of October, the family event Pelíšek’s Haunted Forest takes place here, making a great addition to autumn outings.
9. Ještěd and Liberec
The silhouette of the television transmitter atop Ještěd at an elevation of 1,012 metres is instantly recognisable and has become a symbol of Liberec. This unique building by architect Karel Hubáček, winner of the prestigious Auguste Perret international award, is rightly a national cultural monument and a Building of the 20th Century. The key information for this year, however, is that the old cable car is still not operating, so you must reach the summit by car, bus or on foot. There is a shortcut: the Skalka chairlift takes you up to 892 metres (online tickets from €6), and pushchairs, bikes and dogs ride free; from there, it is less than half an hour on foot to the transmitter.
Your reward will be a wonderful panoramic view in every direction. There is also a restaurant called Nad oblaky inside the transmitter, opening daily at 11 a.m., so you can make your trip even more enjoyable with lunch and a view. Fortunately, a new cable car is already being planned. It will be a modern glass cabin for one hundred people, suspended from two cables, taking you all the way from the final tram stop in Horní Hanychov. According to current plans, however, the earliest rides will not be possible until the end of the decade, so do not count on it for your next holiday.
💡 Tip: The weather at the summit is often completely different from the weather down in the city. Before heading up, always check the online webcam. You do not want thick fog and cold temperatures to catch you by surprise while the sun is shining in Liberec.
10. The Jizera Mountains
The Jizera Mountains are a perfect paradise for anyone who loves deep forests and quiet trails without tourist crowds. Few people know that the Jizera Mountain Beech Forests National Nature Reserve was added to the prestigious UNESCO list in 2021, thanks to its ancient, untouched beech forests. Wandering here in autumn, when the leaves turn golden and red, is a visual experience you will remember for life. The mountain huts also serve fantastic yeast dumplings with fresh blueberries, which are simply impossible to resist.
A beautiful starting point is the picturesque settlement of Jizerka, nestled in peat bogs below the basalt hill of Bukovec. The original folk architecture of the mountain cottages has been preserved here, and at night you can enjoy wonderfully clear starry skies. The mountains are also criss-crossed by hundreds of kilometres of cycle paths, which become the famous Jizera Highway for cross-country skiers in winter, with perfectly groomed tracks.
💡 Tip: Try taking a trip to one of the old glassworks that are an inseparable part of the Jizera Mountains’ history. The glassmaking tradition gives this rugged region its distinctive mountain character, and the local glass museums can keep you entertained for an entire rainy afternoon.
11. Swimming Lakes: Milada, Most and Barbora
If the news about deteriorating water quality at Máchovo Lake has disappointed you, I have the perfect alternative. The reclaimed coal mines around Ústí nad Labem offer fantastically clean water. Lake Milada near Ústí nad Labem covers 252 hectares, has beautiful pebble beaches and public-health officials confirmed excellent water quality at every measurement this summer. A great ten-kilometre cycle path also runs around the lake, so you can easily combine cycling with swimming.
Lake Most has reported similarly excellent conditions. It is an impressive 75 metres deep and had the cleanest water in the whole region in 2026. We should not leave out Lake Barbora near Jeníkov either, where you will find excellent sailing facilities and a diving centre. If you are travelling with younger children, however, Lake Kamencové in Chomutov is the clear winner. It is one of the few natural swimming areas with lifeguards stationed at two permanent posts.
💡 Tip: These large new lakes, created in former deep quarries, generally do not have much natural shade yet, as the trees along the shores are still growing. Be sure to pack your own parasol or beach tent so you do not get sunburned.
12. České středohoří and Panská Rock
The landscape of the České středohoří is wonderfully dramatic thanks to its extinct volcanic cones, and Milešovka, the highest mountain, is considered by many to offer the most beautiful panoramic view in the country. The route to the top is very steep, and the hill fully deserves its reputation as the windiest mountain in Czechia, but the view across the surrounding countryside will definitely take your breath away.
You will find a completely different geological wonder near Kamenický Šenov, where the famous Panská Rock rises from the landscape. You will certainly recognise these famous basalt organ pipes from the fairytale film The Proud Princess. Their regular hexagonal columns look as if someone had assembled them by hand. The site is freely accessible, making it a perfect stop for a short afternoon outing, and it is only a short walk from the car park.
💡 Tip: Fruit and wine also thrive in the České středohoří. In Roudnice nad Labem, you will find Lobkowicz Chateau Winery, which has been operating since 1603, making it the oldest family winery in the country. By prior arrangement, you can book a tour of the historic cellars with a tasting of excellent local wine.
13. Děčín and Ústí nad Labem
These two major northern Bohemian cities offer far more than industrial history. In Děčín, do not miss the intimate, beautifully wooded zoo, set high on the hill at Pastýřská Stěna. Admission in the summer season costs €6, but parking capacity up by the entrance is very limited. It is worth leaving your car down in the centre and walking via the romantic Jahn Viewpoint, from where you can see the entire city. Just note that dogs are not allowed here for safety reasons.
Ústí nad Labem, meanwhile, is proud of the Větruše chateau, which now houses a lovely wellness centre with massages. Its terrace offers a wonderful view of the Elbe valley and the ruins of the Gothic Střekov Castle. The castle stands on a steep, 250-metre-high rock directly above the river on the opposite bank, completing Ústí’s panorama.
💡 Tip: If you buy a ticket to Děčín Zoo, do not throw it away. On the same day, it also serves as admission to the interesting Rajské ostrovy exhibition in the city centre, giving you two great outings for the price of one.
14. Terezín
A visit to Terezín is a powerful and moving experience that is unfortunately inseparably linked to the history of this region. The entire memorial has been designed to be visited with great sensitivity, and the €13 adult admission ticket (310 CZK) is valid for an incredible four days. The reason is quite simple: the Small Fortress and the extensive Ghetto Museum cannot be meaningfully visited and emotionally processed in a single afternoon. Families will appreciate the family ticket, which costs €26 (630 CZK).
The ticket price also includes a high-quality guided commentary in several languages. Just remember that if you are travelling as a group of more than ten people, you must reserve a guide well in advance. Twice a year—on 27 January, International Holocaust Remembrance Day, and on the day of the May Terezín Commemoration—entrance to all sites is completely free to the public.
💡 Tip: Terezín is of course not an ordinary tourist attraction, but a memorial to victims where respect is essential. If you are visiting with school-age children, I recommend discussing the Second World War and the Holocaust with them briefly and sensitively at home before your trip.
15. Zubrnice and Úštěk
If you love old-world charm and peaceful folk architecture, the wonderful open-air museum in Zubrnice is sure to delight you. You can explore a historic farmstead with a fully functioning traditional fruit-drying house, reflecting the rich tradition of growing and trading fruit in this fertile region. No fewer than five old watermills have survived in the romantic stream valley, and you can even look inside the smallest one. It is the perfect place to combine a visit with lunch at a nearby pub, where we happily order hearty fruit dumplings.
Nearby Úštěk, meanwhile, holds the title of the smallest urban heritage reserve in Czechia. Its old square, lined with Gothic houses, looks like the perfect film set, where time has literally stopped. There is a campsite and Lake Chmelař by the town. I should mention straight away, though, that public-health officials reported green algae and reduced water clarity here this year, so it is not really suitable for a long swim, even though there is a lifeguard by the water and a miniature-golf course nearby.
💡 Tip: Zubrnice and Úštěk make an absolutely ideal combination for one easy, slow-paced day without stress or large tourist crowds, which you will enjoy most towards the end of your holiday.
Northern Bohemia with Kids: The Best Family Tips
Northern Bohemia is made for family outings, because wherever you go, you’ll find something to delight little explorers. Whether rain has caught you out or you’re looking for shelter from the summer heat, these tips will save the day.
iQLANDIA and Liberec with Kids
Liberec is an absolute family favourite in Northern Bohemia, and you won’t be bored for a moment. The huge iQLANDIA science centre has exhibitions thoughtfully divided by age, which makes planning your visit much easier. The smaller iQPARK reliably entertains children aged three to eight, while the more complex LANDIA and modern planetarium are better suited to older schoolchildren from the age of eight, and adults will find plenty to enjoy too. Technically minded teenagers aged 11 and over can also have fun in the excellent FabLab makerspace.
If rain catches you out on a day trip, the combined ticket for iQPARK and the neighbouring Babylon aquapark, costing €12, is a real lifesaver. Just remember to book it in advance, as demand is very high. You can park right by iQLANDIA for €5 per day, which is considerably cheaper than the surrounding city car parks, where you may pay three times as much. Once the children have had enough of experiments with water and fire, take the Crystal Trail, which offers a playful introduction to the famous glassmaking tradition of the entire Liberec region.
On a rainy day, the Ajeto glassworks in Lindava is another good option, where children can watch glassmakers working right by the furnace (a guided tour costs €6, and a family ticket €18). There is one catch you won’t find mentioned everywhere: from 18 July to 7 August 2026, the glassworks will be operating in a limited mode without the glassmakers, so you won’t see glassblowing during the peak holiday period.
Animal Encounters: Zoos, Safari and White Tigers
Liberec Zoo is the oldest zoo in Czechia, and a visit is a classic experience you really shouldn’t miss. An adult ticket costs €7 in the summer season, but if you buy your tickets online in advance, a family of five saves €1, which is always useful for something like ice cream. You’ll also avoid the queues at the ticket counters. Seniors over 75 pay just a symbolic €1.
The smaller Děčín Zoo, by contrast, has a much more intimate and peaceful atmosphere. It is beautifully set in a wooded park on a hill above the city. Just bear in mind that dogs are not allowed here for safety reasons, and the car park right by the entrance has very limited capacity. If you have dinosaur fans at home, they will enjoy DinoPark in Liberec (adults €12, children €11, free for children under three), where a 4D cinema and a robotic stegosaurus hatchling are included in the ticket price. And if safari is more your thing, the largest zoo in Czechia is Zoopark Chomutov, covering 112 hectares: a ride on the Safari Express among bison, mouflon and Przewalski’s horses costs €4 and runs daily during the school holidays. Back to Děčín, though: it’s better to leave your car in the city centre and take a pleasant walk with the children via Jahn Lookout. There’s also good news for your wallet: a ticket from Děčín Zoo is valid on the same day for entry to the Paradise Islands exhibition in the city centre, so you can give the children two animal experiences in one go.
Swimming: Lake Máchovo jezero and New Lakes
When you’re heading to the water with children, safety, a gentle entry and, above all, clean water are essential. While Lake Máchovo jezero struggled with cyanobacteria and green algae at most testing points throughout the 2026 season, the newly reclaimed lakes offer much better conditions. Kamencové Lake in Chomutov is a real gem for families with young children. It is one of the few natural bathing areas in the region with professional lifeguards stationed at two permanent posts, giving parents much greater peace of mind while relaxing on the beach.
The water also stays clean throughout the summer thanks to its unique composition. The smaller swimming areas in the Šluknov region are another excellent, peaceful alternative. The natural swimming complex in Velký Šenov, for example, has a children’s paddling pool, slides and clean water from a forest stream. You won’t find lifeguards at the new Lake Milada near Ústí nad Labem, but health inspectors have confirmed its excellent water quality, and children can enjoy the long pebble beaches—just remember to bring water shoes.
Northern Bohemia with a Stroller
Rock cities full of steps and deep gorges usually aren’t very stroller-friendly, but you can still find some excellent routes where you won’t struggle with the wheels. In Prachov Rocks, stick strictly to the blue-marked circuit, which follows comfortable, surfaced paths to the most beautiful viewpoints and reliably avoids the narrow stairways where you would have to carry the stroller.
In Bohemian Switzerland National Park, head along Mlýnská Road to the new Fénix accessible viewpoint, which is easy to reach from the direction of the village of Mezná. A trip to the Wild Gorge is also a wonderful experience for the whole family. On the other hand, don’t let anyone tell you that you can circle Lake Máchovo jezero with a stroller—the 15-kilometre route runs largely along roads and forest tracks. Back to what does work: at the Wild Gorge, the friendly boatmen will load a folded stroller onto the boat completely free of charge, so even the youngest travellers can enjoy the ride. Other excellent options for a stroller walk include the wide forest tracks in the Jizera Mountains or the paved 10-kilometre cycle path circling the clean waters of Lake Milada.
Where to Eat in Northern Bohemia
After a full day outdoors, you’re bound to work up an appetite, and Northern Bohemian cuisine fortunately has plenty to offer. Around Zubrnice, remember the local tradition of drying fruit and order a generous serving of fruit dumplings, which are made in practically every cottage here. In the Jizera and Lusatian Mountains, fresh blueberries piled onto yeasted cakes and delicious mushroom scramble are the stars. The deep forests are a mushroom-picker’s paradise, so a forest-scented dinner is especially satisfying after a hike. If you’re looking for a sure bet after hiking to Pravčická Gate, Lukáš and I can never resist the classic fried cheese with chips and tartar sauce, served in almost every pub here and tasting even better in the fresh mountain air.
Because the German border is close and the region is mountainous, local restaurants often serve meaty Saxon and Ore Mountains specialities, so fans of traditional roasts and sausages will certainly find something to enjoy on the menus. When it comes to good drinks, the region can also boast a surprisingly long winemaking history. Nearby Roudnice nad Labem is home to Lobkowicz Château Winery, which has been operating since 1603, making it the oldest family winery in the country. Its wines from the northernmost Czech wine subregion are excellent, and by prior arrangement you can also tour the historic cellars and enjoy a tasting. If you prefer beer, forget about Kozel from Central Bohemia. Here in the north, you’ll mostly come across reliable local favourites such as Svijany, excellent Rohozec beer from Turnov, Vratislavice’s Konrad and Ústí’s Kalich. They are just right for an evening drink on the terrace of your cottage.
Practical Tips: Transport, Crowds and Reservations
This year, one of the biggest bonuses for travellers is the so-called DÚKpass, which many people don’t know about at all. The rule is simple: if you stay in the Bohemian Switzerland destination for two nights or more, your accommodation provider will give you a special QR voucher. Simply upload it to the DÚKapka mobile app, and you’ll instantly have a free all-day ticket for buses, trains and Elbe ferries throughout the Ústí nad Labem Region. It is even valid on the day of arrival, so you can use it on the busy Shuttlebus 441 between Janov and Hřensko, for example. It can save a family a great deal of money over a week. Just watch out for one thing: if everyone in your group uploads their vouchers to a single phone, you will have to travel together at all times.
If you’re planning to visit the famous Edmund’s Gorge, take note, because its operating arrangements changed radically in 2026. It now opens only from 18 June, admission costs €16 per adult, and entry is permitted only with a guide in small groups of no more than 25 people. Groups depart just once an hour, so tickets sold on site disappear very quickly. The municipality warns on its social media that it cannot guarantee you’ll get a place, so I recommend heading instead to the nearby Wild Gorge, where you don’t need a reservation.
Access to the national park is subject to strict rules to protect the forest. Keep a close eye on the current fire-risk indicator. When a high-risk level is announced, you may move around only on marked trails, and there is also a blanket ban on entering the forest between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. This year, the increased fire risk applies across the country until the end of August, so forget about grilling sausages or wild camping in the forest—the fines are steep.
Read More
If you’d like more detail about the region’s best-known places, be sure to read our in-depth guide, Pravčická Gate: 6 Tips on What to See and Know. If you’re looking to escape the crowds, we recommend the article Jetřichovice Viewpoints: 4 Tips for a Quieter Side of Bohemian Switzerland.
If you’re planning a family holiday with the convenience of a city nearby, take a look at Liberec: 8 Tips on What to See and Do. Those who would rather tackle mountain ridge hikes will find inspiration in The Ore Mountains: Things to Do + 14 Tips for Trips, and if you still can’t decide, browse our comprehensive guide, 20 Tips for Where to Go on Holiday in Czechia.
Frequently Asked Questions
How does the free transport with DÚKpass work?
You’re entitled to free travel throughout the Ústí Region if you stay in Bohemian Switzerland for at least two nights with partners participating in the system. You’ll receive a QR code that you load into the DÚKapka mobile app, and you can immediately ride buses and trains completely free of charge, which also applies to the popular shuttle bus in Hřensko. Children under six also always ride free.
Which lakes in the region are really clean?
While Lake Mácha unfortunately had major problems with cyanobacteria on all beaches again from early June 2026, the reclaimed coal lakes Milada, Most, and Barbora offered completely clean and reliable water. For families with smaller children, I highly recommend Kamencové Lake in Chomutov, where professional lifeguards even supervise swimmers’ safety.
What’s the difference between Edmundova and Divoká Gorge?
Divoká Gorge operates normally from April to November, boat rides cost €8 and run without advance reservation. Edmundova Gorge, on the other hand, has been operating since 2026 under a completely new and very strict regime starting only from June 18th. You can only enter with a guide in groups of maximum twenty-five people, tickets cost €16 and often sell out early in the morning.
Is the cable car to Ještěd already operating?
The old gondola cable car to Ještěd still isn’t running; you can get up there by car, bus, on foot, or by the Skalka chairlift and from its upper station about another half hour of walking. The city of Liberec has already presented the complete design of a new and very modern cable car with glass stations for one hundred people, which will be extended all the way to the tram terminus. However, the exact launch date is not yet known.
Can we bring our dog to the castles?
This isn’t normally customary at state or private monuments in the country, but the beautiful Gothic castle Kost in Bohemian Paradise is fortunately a bright exception. Dogs on leash are allowed entry not only in the outdoor courtyards but even directly on the interior tour routes. Plus, you don’t pay any special dog admission fee; they go with you completely free.
When is the best time to head to Prachovské Rocks?
The rock city opens at seven in the morning and that first early hour is absolutely ideal, because the huge area is practically empty and you’ll avoid the biggest heat. If you want to save yourself nerves with parking and crowding at the turnstiles, park instead at the smaller ticket office near the Nature Museum, where it’s usually much quieter than at the main entrance.
What’s the situation in Hřensko with fire risk?
The national park administration closely monitors the situation and when a high danger level is declared, strict restrictions apply to everyone. You may only move along marked hiking trails and a strict nighttime forest entry ban from 22:00 to 6:00 is in effect, so no romantic wild camping is possible here at all.
What to do when Gabrielina Trail is still closed?
Instead of the closed Gabrielina Trail, head out on the newly renovated Mlýnská Trail, which takes you directly through the rapidly regenerating forest in the burned area. Additionally, since 2025 there’s been a beautiful barrier-free Fénix viewpoint with a telescope aimed directly at Pravčická Gate. From here you can also set out on a completely new cross-border hiking trail toward the Saxon village of Schmilka.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (simple monthly subscription) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
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