Rome can be the most romantic city in the world, but when you’re trying to wrestle a wide pushchair through swarms of sweaty tourists on scorching tarmac in the middle of a July afternoon, it quickly turns into a nightmare. We absolutely love this city and have explored it inside out, but we know all too well that visiting Rome with kids requires a completely different strategy than travelling as a couple.

If you plan your days based on previous child-free trips and try to squeeze the Vatican, the Colosseum, and the Spanish Steps all into one day, it will inevitably end in exhaustion and tears – from everyone involved. The city does have its fair share of challenges: punishing heat, pavements with no dropped kerbs, and cobblestones absolutely everywhere. But once you know how to handle it, Rome will show your family a side you’ll never forget.

TL;DR

• A quality carrier is a must: The historic centre is paved with unforgiving basalt cobblestones, so a wide or cheap pushchair will make your life absolutely miserable.
• One major sight per day is plenty: Don’t rush and don’t try to tick everything off – kids will lose interest in piles of old stones pretty fast.
• Get up very early: Hit the biggest attractions right at opening time before 10 a.m. to avoid crushing crowds and dangerous midday heat.
• Non-negotiable afternoon siesta: Between 2 and 5 p.m., retreat to your air-conditioned hotel – Rome’s streets at this time are no place for children.
• Water is everywhere and free: The city has over 2,500 cast-iron drinking fountains with ice-cold water, so just bring a reusable bottle.
• Eat on the go or at a market: Instead of stressful dinners in overpriced restaurants, go for pizza slices or delicious fried rice croquettes that kids adore.
• Watch out for scammers and pickpockets: Steer clear of the notorious number 64 bus, and teach your kids not to pose with the fake gladiators near the Colosseum – they’ll aggressively demand money afterwards.

When to Visit Rome with Kids

If you have any flexibility at all, avoid the summer holidays at all costs. In July and August, temperatures routinely reach 31–35°C, the ancient stones radiate intense heat well into the evening, and for smaller children this kind of environment is genuinely dangerous due to the risk of heatstroke. The city is at its most beautiful in spring – April and May – or in autumn during October, when the air is pleasantly warm but without the suffocating humidity. Also bear in mind that 2025 is a Holy Year (Jubilee), which will bring millions of additional pilgrims to the city, meaning crowds will be even more overwhelming than usual.

For the visit itself, set aside ideally four to five days so you have room for a slow pace and long rest breaks. We always recommend following the early bird rule: tackle the most important and busiest attractions first thing in the morning, then spend the afternoon resting in a park or back at the hotel. Basically, take it easy, don’t push too hard, and accept that you won’t see everything. Family happiness is far more important than ticking off another church in your guidebook.

Where to Stay in Rome

In terms of specific accommodation recommendations, we’ve had great experiences with Hotel Artemide in the central Monti district, the boutique Condotti Boutique Hotel just a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps, and the quieter Residenza Cavallini in the Prati neighbourhood near the Vatican. Booking well in advance will get you the best deals.

💡 Tip for accommodation and activities: We prefer searching for hotels on Booking.com, which tends to have the best cancellation policies. For tickets, tours, and activities, it’s worth comparing options on GetYourGuide.

Choosing the right location is absolutely crucial when you have kids, because you need the option of a quick retreat to your room during the afternoon heat. Avoid the very heart of the historic centre in the triangle between the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain, where there’s constant noise, enormous crowds, and absurdly inflated shop prices. Instead, look for accommodation in the Rione Monti district, which is just a short walk from the Colosseum, has a gorgeous bohemian atmosphere with ivy-covered façades, and is much calmer. Another excellent choice is the peaceful Aventine Hill, fragrant with pine and citrus trees, and just a short stroll from lovely parks with stunning views over the city.

When booking, always double-check whether the building has a lift, because many historic buildings either don’t have one at all or have one so tiny that there’s no way you’ll fit a pushchair inside. Air conditioning is an absolute necessity from May to October – without it, nobody will sleep at night. If you’re looking for specific hotels with beautiful views, consider Hotel Forum right by the Imperial Forums, or Hotel FortySeven near the Mouth of Truth. That said, for family stays, renting a more spacious apartment with a small kitchen often makes much more sense.

12 Tips on What to See and Do in Rome with Kids

We’ve put together a detailed list of twelve places and activities that are guaranteed to delight your children – and save you a lot of stress. It includes famous ancient monuments, secret escapes into greenery, and practical advice on how to turn something as mundane as drinking water into a fun game.

1. The Colosseum Done Differently: The Arena Floor and Gladiators

For a small child, a standard Colosseum visit in the midday heat is just a boring pile of rocks in a dusty inferno. To hold their attention, you need to invest in the Full Experience ticket, which costs around €22 and grants access to the actual arena floor and the mysterious underground area known as the hypogeum. Stories about how lions and tigers were raised from dark cages through ingenious trapdoors right before the eyes of spectators can transform even the dustiest ruins into a thrilling playground for young imaginations.

Buy your tickets exclusively from the official website – they’re released exactly thirty days in advance and during peak season they sell out literally within five to ten minutes, so you’ll need to set an alarm. Go for the very first morning time slot, before the stones heat up and the crowds become unbearable.

💡 Insider tip: Teach your kids to completely avoid the men in plastic historical costumes outside the entrance. These fake gladiators will very aggressively demand up to €20 per person after a photo, and they’re operating illegally.

2. Gladiator School on the Via Appia

If you have little history lovers at home who are constantly play-fighting with sticks, this is an experience they’ll be talking about for years. On the famous ancient road Via Appia Antica, you’ll find the Gruppo Storico Romano – an authentic gladiator school where kids can spend a few hours training as warriors. They’ll be kitted out in a traditional linen tunic and belt, handed a wooden sword, and experienced instructors will teach them basic strikes and defensive stances.

The whole programme is run in a very playful way, the instructors speak English, and they have enormous patience with children. While your little ones battle it out in the sand, you can relax in the shade of the pine trees and snap some incredible photos. We recommend booking this experience well in advance, as places are limited and weekends tend to sell out completely.

3. Villa Borghese: Bikes, Boats, and Animals

When you feel like the endless stones and crowds are driving you mad, it’s time to escape to the vast green oasis of Villa Borghese. This sprawling heart-shaped park sits right above the city centre and is an absolute lifesaver for families who need to let their kids run free in a car-free space. You can hire the popular family-sized pedal carts (risciò) that seat four and cruise along all the beautiful tree-lined avenues without anyone’s legs getting tired.

Another magical experience is renting a little wooden rowing boat on the artificial lake by the romantic Temple of Asclepius, where you can feed ducks and turtles. If your kids love animals, you’ll find the Bioparco in the back of the park – one of the oldest zoos in Europe. It’s not as vast as, say, London Zoo, but for keeping children entertained for two or three hours, it works a treat.

4. Explora Interactive Museum

When the day comes where it’s either unbearably hot or absolutely bucketing down outside, head over to a spot just off Piazza del Popolo. There you’ll find Museo dei Bambini, or Explora for short – a fantastic interactive children’s museum where the “do not touch” rule doesn’t exist. Kids can try their hand at driving a real train, shopping in a miniature supermarket with working checkouts, or exploring fascinating water play areas and physics experiments.

It’s important to know that entry is strictly organised into two-hour time slots to prevent overcrowding. Booking tickets online in advance is therefore essential – otherwise you risk arriving at the door and having to explain to disappointed little faces that it’s sold out. After the visit, you can grab an excellent coffee in the adjoining café while the kids burn off any remaining energy on the outdoor playground.

5. Ostia Antica Instead of Exhausting Pompeii

Many parents make the mistake of attempting a day trip from Rome to Pompeii with kids, which means at least two and a half hours of travel each way and total exhaustion. A brilliant and far more accessible alternative is Ostia Antica, Rome’s vast ancient port, which you can reach comfortably in just thirty minutes by commuter train from Porta San Paolo station. The entire site is set amidst beautiful scenery under towering pine trees, providing plenty of shade even in warmer months.

It’s incredibly child-friendly here because, unlike central Rome, there are no crowds and kids can roam freely. You can prepare a fun scavenger hunt and let them search for well-preserved ancient bakeries with large millstones, explore the remains of public latrines, or clamber up the steps of an ancient theatre. It’s a peaceful half-day packed with history that takes far less energy out of everyone.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to Stay in Rome

6 accommodations — hotels and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏨 Hotel

Hotel Artemide

Well-established hotel in the central Monti district, close to main attractions and with good accessibility to the entire city.

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Condotti Boutique Hotel

Boutique hotel just steps from the Spanish Steps, ideal for discerning travelers seeking more luxurious accommodation in the center.

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Residenza Cavallini

Quieter accommodation in the Prati district near the Vatican, suitable for families seeking relaxation away from the main tourist hustle.

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Hotel Forum

Hotel with beautiful views directly by the Imperial Forums, ideal for history lovers and panoramic views of ancient monuments.

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Hotel FortySeven

Hotel near the Mouth of Truth with beautiful views, suitable for families seeking accommodation with character close to main attractions.

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6. Magic Drinking Fountains and the Hunt for “Big Noses”

Keeping kids hydrated in Rome is the fundamental prerequisite for a day that doesn’t end in disaster. Your secret weapon is the nasoni – literally “big noses” – the public cast-iron drinking fountains dotted around the city, roughly two and a half thousand of them. The water flows continuously and is ice-cold, perfectly safe to drink, and completely free, so all you need is a reusable bottle.

For kids, you can turn ordinary hydration into a brilliant game by showing them the classic local trick. If you block the main spout at the bottom with your finger, water pressure forces it up through a small hole on top of the tap in a neat arc straight into your mouth – no awkward bending down required. To find the nearest fountain without any hassle, download the free Waidy WOW app to your phone.

💡 Insider tip: Always keep a small towel in your backpack, because after playing with the fountains, kids tend to end up soaked from head to toe. 😅

7. Castel Sant’Angelo and Its Secret Passageways

Castel Sant’Angelo – the enormous cylindrical fortress towering over the River Tiber – is an absolute magnet for kids. Originally built as Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, it was later transformed into an impregnable papal fortress complete with a grim dungeon. Children will be utterly fascinated by the old cannons, deep moats, and labyrinthine interior corridors that feel straight out of an adventure film.

When you climb all the way to the top terrace beneath the statue of Archangel Michael, you’ll be rewarded with one of the most stunning views over the nearby Vatican and the entire city. A fantastic story for older children is the fact that a secret elevated passageway called the Passetto di Borgo leads from the castle directly to the Vatican Palace – popes used it in the past to make quick escapes from their enemies.

8. The Mouth of Truth for Little Daredevils

Bocca della Verità – the enormous marble mask carved with the face of a Roman god – is a classic tourist stop that works absolutely brilliantly with children. Legend has it that if a liar places their hand inside the open mouth, it will snap shut and bite it clean off. It’s a perfect opportunity for a bit of suspense and fun, daring the kids to see if they’re brave enough to try.

The monument is located in the portico of the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, and there’s usually a queue as everyone wants their photo. Try to arrive early in the morning so you don’t have to wait in the sun too long with impatient little ones. The church itself, by the way, is a beautiful example of medieval architecture and offers a welcome blast of cool air.

9. Catacombs for Older and Braver Kids

If you’re travelling with teenagers or older children who can handle a bit of a scare, the underground catacombs are the perfect mildly spooky adventure. The most famous ones lie beyond the city walls along the ancient Via Appia Antica – for example, the Catacombs of San Callisto or San Sebastiano. These are miles of winding dark corridors where early Christians were buried in the first centuries AD.

You can only enter with a guide, so there’s no risk of getting lost in the endless labyrinth. Inside, it’s consistently quite cool – around 15°C – which feels like heavenly relief during summer heat, but definitely pack a light jumper for the kids. Younger or more sensitive children might find the cramped spaces and dark atmosphere frightening, so consider whether it’s right for them based on their temperament.

10. Pizza al Taglio and Rice Croquettes

Sitting in a traditional restaurant with an exhausted toddler can be absolute torture, which is why Rome’s thriving street food culture is such a godsend. For a quick, stress-free lunch, look for places with the sign “pizza al taglio”, meaning pizza by the slice. Simply point at the type you want through the glass, the server uses scissors to indicate the size, you nod, and you pay by weight. It’s incredibly quick, cheap, and kids love it.

An even better grab-and-go option is the classic Roman supplì – perfectly golden fried rice croquettes filled with melting mozzarella and a delicate tomato sauce. They’re nicknamed “supplì al telefono” because when you cut a hot croquette in half and pull the two pieces apart, the melted cheese stretches out like old telephone wires – which always gets a huge laugh from kids. You’ll find excellent supplì and a relaxed atmosphere at the covered Mercato di Testaccio.

11. A Crash Course in Spotting Real Italian Gelato

Having gelato in Italy is a daily obligation, but not every scoop is worth your money. Teach your kids the useful skill of spotting genuine artisan quality versus tourist traps full of chemicals. If you see towering, fluffy mountains of ice cream in impossibly garish colours – think neon-green pistachio or Smurf-blue – walk away immediately, because it’s pumped full of air and artificial colouring.

Real artisan gelato sits flat in metal containers that are often covered with lids to maintain the right temperature. The colours of quality gelato are naturally muted, so banana flavour looks greyish and pistachio is a dull brownish-green. Once you explain these rules to your kids, hunting for the right gelateria becomes a genuinely fun detective game.

12. Escape to the Beach

When the midsummer heat becomes truly unbearable and everyone’s cranky, the best solution is to simply escape the city and head for the water. You don’t need to fuss with a car because a train from San Pietro or Trastevere station gets you to the sea in forty-five minutes at the popular resort of Santa Marinella. It’s an effortless trip that has saved many a family holiday.

The local beach is sandy, the entry into the Tyrrhenian Sea is very gradual, and the water is clean – an ideal combination for smaller children. You can rent sun loungers and an umbrella and treat yourselves to an excellent vegetarian pizza at one of the beachfront restaurants. The return trip to Rome on the evening train, when the sun is no longer beating down, makes a lovely end to a relaxing day.

Day Trips and Beyond from Rome

If you have more time in Italy and don’t want to spend the entire holiday in one city, the surrounding area offers some wonderful options. We’ve already mentioned the ancient port of Ostia Antica, which is a far more manageable family alternative to a trip south to the famous Pompeii. If you’re looking for some cool air and greenery, head to the nearby town of Tivoli, where the stunning Villa d’Este awaits with hundreds of gurgling fountains and gardens that will utterly enchant the kids.

For detailed planning of your stay in the city itself, be sure to check out our comprehensive guide on what to see in Rome, where you’ll also find a practical itinerary for Rome in 3 days. And if you’re wondering how to logistically tackle the world’s smallest country, we’ve written separate articles on the Vatican and the vast Vatican Museums.

Frequently Asked Questions

Rome doesn’t forgive the unprepared, and right off the bat I need to tell you something crucial. Most of us arrive with a romantic vision of carefree wandering among ancient columns, a cone of perfectly crafted gelato in hand, and a yearning to soak up that authentic Italian atmosphere. But reality often hits you hard on day one, when you realise just how exhausting the Eternal City can be. Scorching cobblestones, relentless crowds squeezing through narrow lanes, and sheer physical exhaustion from chaotically dashing from one end of the city to the other take their toll. The secret to a successful Roman campaign isn’t about how many sights you tick off a list — it’s about how cleverly you divide the city up. And there’s no better place to start than Trastevere, Rome’s most enchanting neighbourhood across the Tiber.

If you’re looking for a place that perfectly matches that cinematic postcard image, you simply have to head across the River Tiber. The Trastevere district of Rome — the name literally means “beyond the Tiber” — is the ultimate embodiment of Italian romance, though it too has its pitfalls and unwritten rules. My partner Lukáš and I love this part of the city for its incredible evening energy and fantastic vegetarian food wafting from every little trattoria. At the same time, we know all too well that staying right in its pulsating heart requires pretty strong nerves and a high tolerance for noise. In this article, I’ll show you how to enjoy this iconic neighbourhood to the fullest without falling into unnecessary tourist traps.

TL;DR

• Authentic Italian atmosphere: Trastevere is a maze of narrow lanes where ivy cascades from old ochre facades and freshly laundered clothes flutter overhead.
• Best time to visit: Aim for October or May — the summer months are unbearable and the neighbourhood literally bursts at the seams.
• Vegetarian paradise: You’ll taste some of the best traditional food here, from cacio e pepe pasta to fried rice balls called supplì that you’ll fall in love with.
• No metro: There’s no underground line serving the neighbourhood, so you’ll have to walk or take the perpetually packed tram number eight.
• Watch out for crowds: Piazza Trilussa and the area around the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere are extremely noisy in the evening and packed with tourists and local youth.
• Hidden tranquillity: If you’re after quiet corners, head to the southern part of the neighbourhood around the beautiful Basilica of Santa Cecilia — most tourists never make it there.
• Priceless views: Don’t forget to hike up the Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo), where the entire Eternal City unfolds before you.

When to Visit Trastevere and How to Survive the Heat

Every traveller’s fundamental wish is always the same, and it’s perfectly understandable. We all want to see Rome bathed in glorious sunshine, we want to sit outside with an Aperol in hand, but we also don’t want to be crushed by ten thousand other people while doing it. Finding that magic sweet spot is incredibly difficult and requires genuinely careful planning. The best months to visit are May, June, September, and above all October, which offers the most pleasant conditions for long walks. Temperatures drop to a very comfortable twenty-two degrees, the air finally clears, and the city is bathed in gorgeous autumn light that’s absolutely perfect for photography.

The price you pay for this spring and autumn comfort is, however, pretty steep. These months function as peak season, so hotels fill up fast and the narrow lanes of Trastevere can sometimes feel like one giant ant colony. Summer in Rome — specifically July and August — is a massive test of your physical and mental resilience. Temperatures routinely soar above thirty-five degrees and humidity turns the streets into a stifling greenhouse where not a leaf stirs. If you absolutely must visit Rome in summer, your daily routine needs a radical overhaul to embrace the so-called riposo — the Italian afternoon siesta.

August has one more harsh and often overlooked quirk: the Ferragosto holiday. Around the fifteenth of August, huge numbers of locals lock up their flats, pull down the shutters, and flee en masse to the coast or mountains to escape the infernal heat. Many of the best family-run businesses and authentic restaurants in Trastevere simply shut for two to three weeks and hang a “closed for holidays” sign on the door. The good news, though, is that the Holy Year — the Jubilee that brought tens of millions of pilgrims to Rome in 2025 and caused absolute chaos — officially ended at the start of 2026. The city never sleeps and crowds will always be part of the deal, but the worst of the apocalyptic crush has thankfully eased and the streets are a touch more breathable again.

Where to Stay in Rome and Why Consider Trastevere

💡 Accommodation & experience tip: We love searching for places to stay on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation policies. For tickets, tours, and activities, it’s worth comparing options on GetYourGuide.

Your choice of neighbourhood defines your entire Rome experience and determines whether you collapse onto the bed in exhaustion each evening or casually stroll down to a local trattoria on the corner. Trastevere is the embodiment of that romantic Italian dream — it offers narrow pedestrian zones and absolutely fantastic nightlife. But the neighbourhood also has some notable downsides, as it attracts enormous, sometimes overwhelming crowds. Its biggest weakness is transport: there’s no metro stop serving the area, and the main sights aren’t exactly a stone’s throw away. In the morning, you’ll have to rely on the overcrowded tram, or simply walk everywhere on your own two feet — which on old cobblestones can really take a toll.

If you’re still set on staying here, I have one very important piece of advice. Look for accommodation in the southern part of the neighbourhood towards the Basilica of Santa Cecilia, where it’s considerably quieter and you’ll avoid the noisiest late-night crowds. A beautiful and tried-and-tested choice is Hotel Santa Maria, tucked away in a former sixteenth-century convent with a stunning courtyard full of orange trees. Another excellent option for a slightly more luxurious stay is Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli, whose rooftop terrace offers a jaw-dropping view over the entire Eternal City. You can easily book both of these through Booking, which we personally use on all our trips.

As an alternative to bustling Trastevere, you could opt for the calmer Prati neighbourhood right next to the Vatican — it’s flat and ideal for families with children. Another popular choice is the Monti district, which sits strategically right behind the Colosseum and offers excellent metro and train station access. Just always make sure to check whether your accommodation falls within a so-called ZTL restricted traffic zone. If you were to drive a hire car into one of these zones, the ever-present cameras will catch you and a hefty fine will definitely follow.

14 Things to See and Do in Trastevere

Let’s take a look at the best this photogenic neighbourhood has to offer, from ancient basilicas to the finest culinary experiences. I’ll tell you where to go early in the morning to dodge the crowds, and where to soak up the true Italian atmosphere with a glass of wine in the evening.

1. Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

This is the absolute heart of the entire neighbourhood and probably the first place your feet will carry you after crossing the river. The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is considered one of the very oldest Christian churches in all of Rome, with its history stretching back to the third century. Although it looks relatively unassuming from the outside — you might easily walk past it among the sea of other Roman landmarks — its real treasure lies within. The moment you step through the door, you’ll be struck by its grandeur and the incredible stillness that stands in sharp contrast to the noise on the piazza outside.

The main reason you absolutely must visit are the breathtaking twelfth-century golden mosaics adorning the main apse. These mosaics depict the Virgin Mary with Jesus, and when the light hits them just right, they literally glow as if studded with thousands of tiny suns. The golden shimmer reflects throughout the interior, creating a deeply mystical atmosphere. Be sure to notice the massive granite columns separating the central nave from the side aisles as well.

💡 Insider tip: The church is especially stunning in the evening, when the facade is softly illuminated and the camera-toting tourist crowds have long since dispersed. Entry is completely free, but don’t forget the strict dress code — attendants simply won’t let you in with bare shoulders or in short shorts.

2. Piazza di Santa Maria

Directly in front of the aforementioned basilica spreads a piazza that functions as the main crossroads and the most important meeting point of the entire neighbourhood. During the day, Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere is a fairly peaceful spot where you’ll see older Italians reading newspapers on the steps and tourists studying their maps. But once darkness falls, the piazza transforms into a huge pulsating stage that lives and breathes until the small hours of the morning. It’s a place where true Roman youth meets travellers from every corner of the globe.

At the centre of the square stands a beautiful octagonal fountain whose original foundations date back to the eighth century, making it one of the oldest fountains in the city. Its steps serve as an impromptu auditorium for anyone wanting to enjoy free evening entertainment. Street musicians, fire-eaters, and all manner of performers regularly take turns around the fountain, creating that quintessentially bohemian Trastevere atmosphere.

Lukáš and I have managed to sit here for hours on end with just a slice of pizza, watching the incredible buzz unfold around us. It’s exactly the kind of place where you don’t need a specific plan or expensive tickets to absorb the city’s energy. Do keep a close eye on your belongings, though — in the relaxed and often tipsy crowd, skilled pickpockets are very much at work.

3. Wandering the Cobblestone Lanes and Photography

Trastevere’s biggest attraction isn’t actually any single landmark but the lanes themselves, which form a perfectly chaotic labyrinth. This is where you’ll find that iconic scenery of ochre and terracotta facades draped in thick cascades of green ivy. Above your head, freshly laundered clothes flutter on lines strung between windows, and through half-open doors you’ll catch the aroma of garlic and frying tomatoes. It’s a feast for all the senses, and every corner is practically begging to be photographed.

The surface of these lanes is made up of traditional basalt cobbles known in Rome as sampietrini. While they’re incredibly photogenic and give the neighbourhood that perfect historical character, they’re an absolute nightmare for your feet. They’re uneven, full of gaps, and treacherously slippery after a summer downpour — so forget about any heels or strappy sandals with thin soles. If you don’t want to wreck your feet on day one, sturdy trainers are an absolute must here.

The best strategy for exploring is simply to ditch the map and let your intuition guide you. Early in the morning, around eight o’clock, these lanes are still completely empty and bathed in soft golden light. You’ll see only café owners hosing down the pavements and bakers unloading fresh bread. It’s during these morning hours that you’ll capture the most beautiful photos without distracting elements in the background.

4. Climbing Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo) for the Views

If you need a break from the cramped lanes and crave a bit of open space, you need to head uphill. Janiculum Hill — Gianicolo in Italian — rises directly above the Trastevere neighbourhood and offers one of the very best panoramic views of the entire Eternal City. Although it doesn’t rank among the famous original seven hills of Rome, its strategic position makes it an absolutely essential stop for every view lover. The climb will give your legs a workout, but the reward at the top is worth every drop of sweat.

At the summit you’ll find a huge equestrian statue of Italian national hero Giuseppe Garibaldi, who fiercely defended the city against French troops here in the nineteenth century. From the spacious terrace beneath the statue, a breathtaking panorama unfolds — you’ll spot all those famous ancient domes, church bell towers, and in the distance even the outlines of faraway mountains. It’s a brilliant spot to try identifying individual landmarks from above without having to jostle through a crowd.

💡 Insider tip: If you head up here just before noon, you’ll witness one very loud tradition. At precisely twelve o’clock every day, soldiers fire a blank cannon shot — a custom introduced by Pope Pius IX to synchronise the ringing of all Rome’s church bells. The view is equally magical at sunset, though, when the entire city below you is painted in deep orange and pink hues.

5. Villa Farnesina and Raphael’s Frescoes

While thousands of tourists cram into the Vatican Museums and fight for every square inch of space, Trastevere hides a Renaissance gem where you can admire art in blissful peace. Villa Farnesina is a magnificent residence commissioned in the early sixteenth century by the fabulously wealthy papal banker Agostino Chigi. This man had such resources that he could afford to hire the finest artists of his age to create a summer retreat that would dazzle the entire upper crust of the era.

The villa’s main draw is the frescoes by none other than the genius Raphael himself. His depiction of the story of Cupid and Psyche in the main loggia is so strikingly vivid and colourful that you’ll scarcely believe it dates from the Renaissance. Unlike the religious motifs in the Vatican, the paintings here are full of ancient mythology, celebrations of love, and the joys of life — perfectly reflecting the character of the villa’s owner. Raphael even painted the famous fresco of the nymph Galatea here, said to embody his ideal of perfect feminine beauty.

A visit to the villa takes roughly one to two hours and makes a wonderful escape from the summer heat, as the interior stays pleasantly cool. The gardens around the villa may no longer be as expansive as in its heyday, but they still offer a lovely spot to rest. Admission is very reasonable, and the huge advantage is that you can admire these masterpieces without anyone shoving you through the crowd towards the exit.

6. Porta Portese Sunday Market

If you happen to be in Rome on a Sunday morning and love rummaging through old things, your itinerary is sorted. Porta Portese is probably the biggest and most famous flea market in all of Europe, stretching for several kilometres along the old city walls on the very edge of Trastevere. It kicks off early in the morning, around seven o’clock, and wraps up in the early afternoon when sellers start packing up their unsold goods. It’s an incredible, colourful, and very noisy spectacle that you need to experience first-hand.

You’ll find absolutely everything you can think of here. From rare antiques, old Italian books, vinyl records, and vintage clothing, through to cheap electronics and utter junk that defies all logic. Haggling isn’t just permitted — it’s practically a required part of the shopping ritual. If you spot something you like, never accept the first price and don’t be shy about suggesting a much lower figure with a smile.

Walking through the market is a brilliant sociological study, even if you end up not buying a thing. A word of serious warning, though, regarding safety: in the enormous crush around the most interesting stalls, highly organised groups of pickpockets operate with practised ease. Always take your backpack off your back and carry it on your front, keep your wallet in a deep inside pocket, and ideally don’t carry large amounts of cash on you.

7. Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

As I mentioned in the accommodation section, Trastevere also has a very calm and quiet face. You’ll find it in the southern part of the neighbourhood, where most hurried tourists from the historic centre never venture. At the heart of this area stands the Basilica of Santa Cecilia, dedicated to the patron saint of musicians. The place is steeped in a rather dark but powerful legend about a young Christian martyr who survived an attempted suffocation in a bath and then three blows of an executioner’s sword to the neck.

Right in front of the altar you can admire an incredibly detailed marble statue by Stefano Maderno, depicting the saint’s body in the exact position in which it was reportedly found in the catacombs centuries later. The statue is so realistic and emotive that it quite literally sends shivers down your spine. The church itself has a beautiful courtyard with a large ancient vase at its centre, creating an oasis of absolute stillness in the middle of the noisy city.

Definitely pay the few euros for entry to the underground crypt beneath the basilica. You’ll descend into the depths of history and find yourself among the foundations of ancient Roman houses, where you’ll see remains of antique baths and old mosaics. It’s a fascinating journey through time and brilliant proof of how modern Rome constantly layers itself upon its ancient foundations.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to stay in Trastevere, Rome

3 accommodations — wellness hotels, hotels and other accommodation options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏨 Hotel

Hotel Santa Maria

Beautiful hotel hidden in a former sixteenth-century monastery building with an amazing courtyard full of orange trees. Located in the southern part of Trastevere towards the Basilica of Santa Cecilia, where it is considerably quieter.

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Donna Camilla Savelli

Great option for a slightly more luxurious stay with a rooftop terrace offering absolutely breathtaking views of the entire Eternal City. Can be booked through Booking.

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8. Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico)

When you start feeling like the old stone buildings and noisy lanes are closing in on you, it takes just a few steps to find yourself in a completely different world. Orto Botanico, Rome’s botanical garden, spreads across the slopes of Janiculum Hill just behind the Palazzo Corsini. It falls under the local Sapienza University and is one of the best-kept secret escapes from the crowds. For a modest entrance fee, you gain access to a twelve-hectare site brimming with greenery where you often won’t encounter a single soul.

The garden is divided into several themed sections. You’ll stroll through an awe-inspiring bamboo forest that rustles in the wind and provides perfect shade. The Japanese garden with its traditional water features and meticulously trimmed shrubs is wonderfully calming too. In spring, the blooming rose garden is a massive draw, its fragrance drifting far and wide, while in summer you’ll appreciate the palm grove with tree species from around the globe.

Lukáš and I pop in here whenever we’ve had our fill of Rome’s frenzy and just need to sit on a bench listening to birdsong. It’s an ideal spot for families with small children, who can run about freely without you worrying about passing scooters or cars. Plus, from the upper terraces of the garden, you’ll get yet another highly unusual view of the historic centre from a completely different perspective.

9. Tasting Traditional Supplì

Italy isn’t just about pasta and pizza in a restaurant — it’s also about absolutely brilliant street food you can eat on the go. In Rome, the undisputed king of street food is supplì. It’s an oblong fried rice croquette, traditionally cooked in a hearty tomato sauce, hiding a big surprise inside — a chunk of quality mozzarella. When you snap a supplì in half, the cheese should stretch in a long, gooey string that resembles a telephone cord — which is exactly why they’re often called supplì al telefono.

For us vegetarians, it’s an absolute lifesaver and the ultimate snack during a long day of sightseeing. The original recipe sometimes included chicken giblets or minced meat, but nowadays the vast majority of classic tomato supplì are meat-free — just always double-check with the staff to be sure. The croquettes are coated in breadcrumbs and fried to absolute perfection: beautifully crispy on the outside, soft and creamy within.

The best supplì in Trastevere can be found at small, unassuming bistros and shops known as friggitoria, which specialise exclusively in fried food. Try, for example, the famous Supplì Roma on Via di San Francesco a Ripa. You can pick one up for about two euros, eat it right there on the pavement, and instantly get the energy boost you need for the next few miles of walking. It’s cheap, fast, and wonderfully authentic.

10. Dinner at an Authentic Trattoria

Going out for dinner in Trastevere is a ritual you absolutely shouldn’t miss. The neighbourhood is renowned for its family-run trattorias where recipes have been passed down through generations. Give a wide berth to any place with a tout standing outside waving a menu in five languages and trying to lure you in. The truly great Trastevere Rome restaurants need no advertising, and in the evening you’ll often see long queues of locals patiently waiting for a free table.

While local Romans adore their traditional quinto quarto cuisine and relish offal dishes like tripe alla romana or braised oxtail coda alla vaccinara, Lukáš and I naturally gravitate towards the meat-free treasures. The undisputed king of Roman pasta for us is cacio e pepe — a deceptively simple dish made from just Pecorino Romano cheese and freshly cracked black pepper. The result is an incredibly creamy and rich sauce that wraps itself perfectly around long strands of tonnarelli pasta.

💡 Insider tip: You absolutely must also try fried artichokes — carciofi alla giudia — a dish of Jewish-Roman origin that has become an inseparable part of the city’s cuisine. The artichoke is deep-fried whole, its leaves opening up like a golden flower that’s as crunchy as the best crisps you’ve ever had. When the bill comes, don’t be caught off guard by the line item called coperto — it’s a perfectly legal and standard cover charge for the table setting and bread basket, usually around two to four euros per person.

11. Nightlife and Bars around Piazza Trilussa

When the sun goes down, Trastevere reveals its second, far wilder face. While the historic centre around the Pantheon quietly winds down by around ten in the evening, here the party is only just getting started. The epicentre of the action is Piazza Trilussa, which sits right by the river near the Ponte Sisto bridge. The wide steps leading to the local fountain fill up every night with students, young Romans, and tourists who debate, laugh, and soak up the warm Italian nights with a beer in hand.

From this square you can venture into the surrounding lanes like Via del Politeama or Vicolo del Cinque, which are literally packed with small bars and pubs. The Italian evening ritual often begins with the aperitivo. You buy a single cocktail — most commonly a classic bittersweet Aperol Spritz or Campari — and with it you get free access to a small buffet of olives, pizza slices, cheese, and crisps. It’s a brilliant way to ease into the evening cheaply and pleasantly before a late dinner.

The atmosphere is infectiously laid-back. People stand around with glasses right on the pavement, music spills from open bar doors, and everyone chats at full volume. If you’re into craft beer, you’ll find several excellent spots here specialising in Italian microbreweries. Be prepared, though, for the fact that the noise in these streets doesn’t let up well past midnight — which is precisely why I always advise thinking carefully about where in this neighbourhood you book your hotel.

12. Gelato from Local Masters

A visit to Rome without a proper serving of ice cream simply doesn’t count. Trastevere has several absolutely fantastic gelaterias, but you need to know how to spot genuine artisan quality versus artificially coloured tourist bait. The basic rule is simple: steer clear of gelato that’s whipped up into enormous fluffy peaks and glows in unnaturally neon colours. Pistachio gelato should never be bright green — it should be an earthy brownish-green — and banana should be a greyish hue, not vivid yellow.

Real Italian gelato is stored in metal containers, often even under lids, to maintain the proper temperature and texture. Fortunately, you’ll find branches of the very best masters here, such as the acclaimed Fatamorgana. Their gelato artisans experiment with highly unconventional flavours using exclusively seasonal and one-hundred-percent natural ingredients. You can try incredible combinations like chocolate with tobacco, basil with walnuts, or goat’s cheese with honey.

If you prefer the classics, try the legendary Fior di Luna. Their chocolate gelato is so rich and dense it feels like eating a slab of the finest chocolate, and their fruit sorbets taste exactly like freshly crushed fruit. A serving starts at around three euros, and we love to grab ours in a cone and wander down to a bench by the river to enjoy it.

13. Rome’s Drinking Fountains (Nasoni) and Saving on Water

This isn’t a classic tourist sight, but it’s a practical tip that will save you a lot of money and hassle while exploring Trastevere. Rome is dotted with thousands of small cast-iron drinking fountains that locals affectionately call nasoni — meaning “big noses.” Ice-cold, perfectly clean water flows constantly from these spouts, fed by the same historic aqueducts that served the ancient empire. You’ll find quite a few scattered through the narrow lanes of Trastevere, and the water is completely free for everyone.

The biggest mistake you can make is buying overpriced bottled water from street vendors or small kiosks. Simply carry a reusable bottle with you and top it up at every big nose you pass. The water is incredibly refreshing with a great taste. Experienced Romans also know one very elegant trick for drinking from a nasone when you don’t have a bottle handy and don’t fancy contorting yourself under the spout.

Simply block the main downward spout with your finger. The pressure inside the pipe immediately rises and water shoots up through a small hole on the top of the tap, creating a lovely arc you can drink from comfortably while standing upright. It’s a tiny detail, but it’s precisely these little bits of local know-how that turn an ordinary trip into a genuinely memorable experience.

14. Views of the River Tiber and Isola Tiberina

Your exploration of Trastevere wouldn’t be complete without a walk along the river itself, which separates the neighbourhood from the historic centre. The Tiber borders Trastevere on its eastern side and offers beautiful views of old stone bridges. The most fascinating point is undoubtedly Isola Tiberina — the only island on the River Tiber in all of Rome. Shaped like a ship, the island is connected to both banks by two ancient bridges, one of which — Ponte Fabricio — is actually the oldest surviving bridge in the city, built in the first century BC.

Since ancient times the island has housed a temple to the god of medicine Aesculapius, and to this day a large and highly respected hospital operates here. The atmosphere is surprisingly peaceful, and from the island’s banks you can watch the wild currents of the river. Crossing via the island also works brilliantly as a quick pedestrian shortcut from Trastevere directly into the old Jewish Ghetto on the opposite bank, where they make the absolute best fried artichokes in the city.

During the summer months, the Tiber embankment around the island undergoes a dramatic transformation. As part of the Lungo il Tevere festival, dozens of white tents, pop-up restaurants, bars, and little shops spring up. There are open-air film screenings, concerts, and the riverbanks come alive with incredible energy. It’s a wonderful spot for an evening stroll, with the light of historic lamps reflecting off the water as you wander, drink in hand, just metres from the gently flowing river.

Where to Go Next from Trastevere

Once you’ve explored every lane in Trastevere, Rome has endless possibilities waiting for you. Right across the river you’ll reach the historic centre, where the famous Pantheon with its enormous dome and the breathtaking Trevi Fountain await. If you love Baroque architecture, don’t miss Piazza Navona with its wonderful cafés and the elegant Spanish Steps.

History lovers will naturally want to head further east to the majestic Colosseum. For a comprehensive overview of the must-sees, check out our big guide on what to see in Rome. North of Trastevere along the river, you’ll reach the massive fortress of Castel Sant’Angelo, and just beyond it lies the Vatican and the renowned Vatican Museums. If you’d like a break from the city bustle to see world-class art in a parkland setting, book tickets to the Galleria Borghese. And if you have time for day trips beyond the city, we recommend the ancient port of Ostia Antica, the beautiful villas and gardens of Tivoli, or the slightly further but utterly fascinating Pompeii.

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