The Hradčany quarter around Strahov and Loreto holds a special place in my heart — it’s tied to my days as a photojournalism student, when I used to escape the tourist crowds into the winding nooks of Nový Svět. Lukáš and I came here to clear our heads during our first years together in Prague, and this year we walked the route again, this time with two-year-old Jonášek in his pushchair. It’s still our favourite quiet corner of Hradčany and one of the most rewarding Prague attractions you can explore on foot.
My classmates from a local grammar school, who grew up in the centre, taught me one crucial lesson: don’t approach Hradčany from below via Malostranská — come from the top instead. You’ll save yourself the uphill slog, dodge the worst bottlenecks where crowds collide, and earn views that people pay good money for elsewhere. This part of the city demands a slow pace. You’ll pass monastery walls, listen to carillons, and peer over fences into gardens that most guidebooks never mention.
It almost feels silly to list everything you’ll find here — just keep reading. But for the record: we’ll cover Strahov, Loreto, get wonderfully lost in Nový Svět, and stop at places where tour guides never go. Lukáš will be happy because there’s a brewery at the end. 😁
TL;DR
💡 Local tip: Start your route at the top — at the Pohořelec tram stop. You’ll walk downhill the entire way and avoid the crowds trudging up from Malá Strana. 💡 Local tip: The Strahov Library houses two jaw-dropping halls (the Theological and Philosophical), but without a special reservation you can only peek through the doorways. 💡 Local tip: Don’t skip the Loreto treasury, where the Prague Sun shines — a monstrance studded with 6,222 diamonds. 💡 Local tip: The Czernin Palace opposite the Loreto is a government ministry, but its gardens are open to the public for free on summer weekends. 💡 Local tip: The tucked-away lane of Nový Svět feels more like a village than the centre of a capital city — no crowds, just charming little houses without pavements. 💡 Local tip: The Strahov Monastic Brewery serves excellent Sv. Norbert beer, but expect higher prices and full capacity. 💡 Local tip: Hradčanské náměstí offers one of the best views of Prague right by the TGM statue — an ideal spot for golden-hour photos. 💡 Local tip: The pub U Černého vola on Pohořelec is a time-capsule institution. All proceeds from beer sales support a nearby school for the visually impaired.
When to Visit Hradčany and Strahov
I remember one morning when I arrived at Pohořelec at seven and met only a dog walker and a bin lorry. Timing really matters here — while Old Town Square is permanently swarming, Hradčany has its quiet windows when you’ll have the place almost to yourself. I prefer coming early in the morning or in the late afternoon, once the tour coaches have whisked their passengers back to their hotels.
Spring and Summer Mornings for Photographers
If you’re into photography, set that alarm. In April and May the sun hits the façades of the Czernin Palace and Hradčanské náměstí at just the right angle, giving the plaster walls a rich, ochre glow. Morning light works absolute wonders, and you won’t get those annoying shadows from surrounding buildings spoiling your shots.
Summer middays, on the other hand, are brutal. The huge paved squares with zero shade radiate heat from every direction, and Jonáš was always grumpy in his pushchair from the glare. The only refuge is inside monastery walls and churches, where we duck in to cool down when we’ve truly had enough of the sun.
Autumn Melancholy and Winter Silence
The autumn mists rising from Petřín Hill and wrapping Strahov Monastery in a grey veil are exactly why I could never fully leave Prague. Back in the day I’d pull out my camera; now I pull Jonášek out of the pushchair and try to explain where the monastery is. He points at a pigeon.
In winter, especially when there’s a fresh blanket of snow, the lane of Nový Svět is utterly silent and looks almost like something from a fairy tale. The cobblestones can be slippery, but the atmosphere is absolutely worth the extra caution. The best way to warm your frozen fingers afterwards is over a hearty bowl of soup in one of the traditional local pubs — which is exactly where we head after our walk.
Where to Stay
Staying right in Hradčany means being cut off from the city’s buzz once evening rolls around. Restaurants close early and the streets empty out. That’s why Lukáš and I prefer a compromise: accommodation closer to the centre, from where we can reach the hilltop by tram in fifteen minutes, but still have all our favourite cafés and bistros on our doorstep at night.
On our last visit we tried The Julius Hotel near the Jindřišská Tower, and I’ve been recommending it to everyone since. It’s an architecturally stunning space with huge rooms (we had the One Bedroom Suite, which was a lifesaver with a pushchair and a mountain of Jonáš’s stuff) and brilliant transport links. You’re right in the centre yet on a quiet street.
If you’re travelling as a family, I strongly recommend making sure your hotel has a lift. It sounds obvious, but loads of gorgeous boutique hotels in Prague’s historic centre will have you lugging a pushchair up three flights of wooden spiral stairs. That’s another reason The Julius was a clear winner for us. You can check prices and availability on Booking.com.
Strahov Monastery and Its Treasures
The complex of buildings towering above Petřín Hill is one of the oldest Premonstratensian monasteries in the world, founded back in the 12th century. It’s not just one building but a sprawling compound hiding a library, a picture gallery, a basilica, and a brewery. For me it’s a place where deep intellectual history rubs shoulders with a very down-to-earth (yet excellent) beer-brewing present.
The Strahov Library and Its Halls
If you’ve ever seen a photo of a historic library in Prague on Instagram, chances are it was this one. It’s divided into two main parts: the older Theological Hall with heavy Baroque stucco and globes, and the newer, airier Philosophical Hall with an enormous ceiling fresco. The visual impact is staggering — but there’s a catch. A standard ticket only gets you as far as the doorway of each hall. You’re not allowed inside, in order to protect the microclimate and humidity levels that preserve centuries-old volumes.
In 2026, admission costs around 14 € for adults. It’s open daily from 9:00 to 17:00, but watch out for the midday break between noon and one o’clock, when they simply won’t let you in, even if you’ve travelled from the other side of the country. I’m speaking from experience. 😅 It’s always worth double-checking the current times on the Strahov Library’s website.
When Lukáš and I were here last, we happened to catch a moment when cleaning was underway in the Theological Hall. We could watch from a distance how carefully the centuries-old volumes have to be handled. The scent of old paper and wood drifts through the corridors and has an incredible, almost magical quality. It’s simply a place where history seeps out of every inch.
💡 Local tip: If you want to photograph with a DSLR or take more ambitious shots even on a phone, you need to buy a so-called photo permit at the ticket office. Without it, the attendants will firmly tell you off.
Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady and the Picture Gallery
Right next to the library stands the monastery basilica, where none other than Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart once improvised on the organ. The interior is heavy, dark Baroque crammed with frescoes and gilding. Access to the basilica itself is usually limited to services or a glimpse through the grille, but right next door you’ll find the Strahov Picture Gallery. It houses one of the most valuable Central European collections of Gothic and Baroque art.
The gallery is often overlooked by tourists, which makes it a quiet oasis. Admission is around 8 € and the opening hours match the library’s. If you’re an art lover, set aside at least an hour. For me, during my student days, it was the perfect hideaway from the rain — somewhere I could sit quietly and sketch.
The gallery itself is compact, but the Gothic panel paintings have an incredible depth and detail that you could spend ages studying. Plus, thanks to the absence of crowds you can genuinely slow down here and gather your thoughts.
💡 Local tip: There’s no combined ticket for the library and the gallery — you have to buy two separate ones. If you only have time for one, the library is more visually spectacular; the gallery offers absolute peace and quiet.
Loretánské Square and Pohořelec
Honestly, this square always strikes me as slightly schizophrenic: on one side the sweet, confectionery-like façade of the Loreto, on the other the Czernin Palace, which looks as though it wandered in from a much harsher era. But it’s precisely that contrast that keeps pulling me back — I sit on a bench and glance between the two buildings like I’m watching a tennis match.
The Prague Loreto and Its Treasures
The Loreto is a pilgrimage site whose heart is the so-called Holy House (Santa Casa). Legend has it that this is the house of the Virgin Mary, carried by angels from Nazareth to Italy, with replicas then built all across Europe. The Prague version sits in the middle of a courtyard surrounded by arcades. Every hour on the hour, the Loreto carillon — dating from the late 17th century — rings out a Marian hymn over the square.
Inside the complex, don’t miss the treasury. Its greatest pride is the Prague Sun, a diamond monstrance from 1699 set with an astonishing 6,222 diamonds. Admission according to the official Loreto website is around 10 € for adults, and it’s open daily. From a family-with-pushchair perspective, I should warn you that there are steps and thresholds everywhere, so Lukáš and I had to take turns carrying Jonáš.
💡 Local tip: The carillon has a mechanism similar to a music box and can be reprogrammed. During major holidays, the tower plays special compositions instead of the usual melody — an experience that even locals make a point of catching.
The Czernin Palace and Its Shadows
Directly opposite the Loreto stands a building that has always felt slightly ominous to me. The Czernin Palace, with its seemingly endless row of massive columns, is the longest Baroque building in Prague. Today it houses the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The palace’s history is dark — Reinhard Heydrich had his office here during the war, and in 1948 the body of minister Jan Masaryk was found beneath the courtyard windows, a tragedy that remains unexplained to this day.
You can’t normally get inside — the ministry opens its doors just a few times a year. However, the garden behind the palace is freely accessible on summer weekends, completely free of charge.
💡 Local tip: The Czernin Palace garden is one of the best places to escape the summer heat. There are no stalls or crowds — just immaculately trimmed lawns, fountains, and absolute silence.
Pohořelec Square
Pohořelec Square forms a natural link between Strahov and the Loreto. Its name isn’t accidental — the area was devastated by fire several times over the centuries (the Czech word hints at “burnt-down place”). Today it’s a calm spot lined with Renaissance and Baroque houses with covered arcades.
Standing here, you get the feeling the city is taking a breath before the madness that awaits you down by the Castle. I love just pausing to watch the comings and goings of the locals who still live here, because the architecture with its arcades has an irresistible charm.
Hradčany Off the Beaten Track
Once you leave the Loreto behind and head towards Prague Castle, the crowds start thickening. Even so, there are pockets of calm to be found if you know where to turn.
Hradčanské Square
This vast open space in front of Prague Castle’s main gate is flanked by some of the city’s grandest palaces. The Schwarzenberg Palace, with its sgraffito-covered façade, is the one Lukáš always stops to stare at — the black-and-white geometry is genuinely mesmerising. Today it houses the National Gallery, but honestly, the exterior is better than half the exhibits inside. ☺️ Right next door you’ll find the Archbishop’s Palace, and a little further along the Sternberg Palace.
Most people take photos at the gate with the Castle Guard, but I have a different favourite spot on the square. Head to the statue of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk on the southern edge. From there you get a fantastic view over the red rooftops of Malá Strana and the dome of the Church of St Nicholas.
Beyond the view itself, this open space is a favourite haunt of buskers playing everything from classical to jazz. Sometimes Lukáš, Jonáš and I just sit down on the kerb, listen to the music, and watch the endless flow of people pouring through that famous guarded gate.
💡 Local tip: If you want to explore Prague Castle without spending hours in queues, buy your tickets and book tours via GetYourGuide. It’ll save you the stress of queuing at the box offices in the Third Courtyard.
Nový Svět: A Village in the Heart of the City
If I had to pick just one spot in Hradčany that never gets old, it would be Nový Svět. All you have to do is turn downhill from Loretánské Square and suddenly you’re in a completely different world. No monumental palaces — just tiny, colourful cottages squeezed together along a winding cobbled lane. Originally home to castle servants and the urban poor, the lane later attracted artists and astronomers. Tycho Brahe and Johannes Kepler both worked nearby.
Every one of those little houses has an incredible story behind it. You can wander here with your mouth wide open, imagining how people once lived crammed on top of each other. The whole street feels as though time stopped somewhere in the 19th century. I half expect a chimney sweep to come round the corner with a brush over his shoulder.
What’s fascinating is that although this was once a quarter for the genuinely destitute, today these houses would set you back eye-watering sums. Most of them now serve as luxury homes or hide artists’ studios behind their modest façades. Yet there’s still an intimate, neighbourly sense of community here that you simply won’t find in the Old Town anymore.
The houses almost always have the word “golden” in their names (At the Golden Grape, At the Golden Pear) — supposedly to compensate for the poverty of their original inhabitants. Today it’s one of Prague’s most exclusive addresses. A stroll through here takes barely twenty minutes, but it’s the pure essence of old Prague without the kitsch.
Views from Petřín and Hradčany
The entire area between Strahov and Prague Castle is laced with scenic pathways. If you don’t want to stick to the most famous viewpoint at Hradčanské Square, walk from Strahov Monastery along the path called the Raoul Wallenberg Promenade. It follows the slopes of Petřín Hill, just below the monastery gardens.
The views are unobstructed by trees, and you can see all of Prague spread out below you — from Malá Strana across the Vltava to the Pankrác skyscrapers in the distance. It’s an ideal route for an evening stroll, when the city below starts to glow.
💡 Local tip: Try coming here at sunset, when a soft haze hangs over Prague and the light bounces off the Vltava. I’ve taken photos from here that turned out better than anything I ever captured from the Petřín Tower or Letná, and there’s not a queue in sight. 😉
Where to Eat in Hradčany
As I hinted earlier, Hradčany isn’t exactly a gastronomic paradise with options on every corner. Most restaurants along the main route cater to one-time tourists, and the prices reflect that, unfortunately. Still, Lukáš and I have managed to find a handful of places we’re always happy to revisit, whether for a proper lunch or just a coffee. Here are our tried-and-tested three.
Strahov Monastic Brewery
Right in the monastery courtyard you’ll find the Strahov Monastic Brewery, which carries on a centuries-old tradition of Premonstratensian brewing. Today it’s a modern — though heavily touristed — establishment. They brew Sv. Norbert beer, which ranks among the best you can taste in Prague. The amber lager and dark ale both have a rich, full-bodied flavour.
The restaurant is split into a beer hall and an outdoor terrace. The menu focuses on hearty Czech classics — pork knuckle, ribs, and goulash. As a vegetarian I don’t exactly have a feast here (I usually end up with marinated Hermelín cheese or a pretzel), but I’m always happy to tag along with Lukáš for the beer experience. Prices are on the higher side — expect to pay around 4.50 € for a half-litre — but you’re paying for location and quality.
💡 Local tip: The terrace is hopelessly packed in summer. Head straight to the back room in the former coach house — it’s much easier to find a table and the atmosphere under the vaulted ceilings is more authentic.
U Černého vola (The Black Ox)
You’ll find this institution tucked under the arcades on Pohořelec. Noise, the smell of beer and fried cheese, wooden benches, and waiters who look at you as if you’ve interrupted something important — and yet it’s a non-profit pub run by a group of regulars, with all beer proceeds going to a school for the visually impaired just around the corner.
It’s one of the few places up above the Castle where you’ll still bump into familiar old faces and where you can enjoy a properly poured draught Kozel or Pilsner Urquell. Don’t bother trying to reserve a table or ask for a quiet corner. You sit wherever there’s a free spot, and you’re welcome to pull up a chair next to a stranger. And if you have a pint, you’re supporting a good cause.
Kavárna Nový Svět
At the start (or end, depending on your direction) of the tucked-away Nový Svět lane, you’ll find this small, family-run café of the same name. They serve genuinely excellent coffee and superb cakes baked by the owner herself. It’s the perfect pit stop to warm up or grab a quick caffeine hit after kilometres of cobblestones.
The inside is truly tiny, so with the pushchair and Jonáš we usually took our coffee to go. But if you’re lucky enough to snag a table, definitely sit down for a while and soak up the wonderful neighbourly atmosphere that radiates from this little gem.
Practical Information
Getting there: Forget the metro and the uphill slog. Hop on tram number 22 and ride all the way to the Pohořelec stop. From there you’ll walk on the flat or gently downhill towards the Castle. A 30-minute ticket costs around 1.20 € and is more than enough from the centre. If you’re flying in from the UK, there are direct flights from London to Prague with carriers like British Airways, Ryanair and easyJet — the flight takes under two hours. Don’t even think about driving up here: parking for non-residents is virtually impossible and the restricted zones will only stress you out. The tram is completely reliable, runs every few minutes, and the winding ride up from Malostranské náměstí towards the Castle is a brilliant experience in itself — one your little ones will love too. Tickets: The sights in Hradčany (Loreto, Strahov Library) are NOT part of the Prague Castle ticket circuits. Each institution has its own ticket office and its own admission fee. Have your cards ready — contactless payment is accepted everywhere. If you’re planning to visit several places, spread your energy across more than one afternoon rather than trying to cram everything in at once. Especially with kids, who start losing interest after the second site. We usually pick one main attraction — say, the Loreto — and spend the rest of the time simply strolling the squares at a relaxed pace. * With a pushchair or wheelchair: Hradčany is tough terrain. The paving is rough, and the traditional cobblestones can rattle you to the bone. You can get into the Loreto and Strahov with some effort, but Nový Svět — with its missing pavements and steep gradient — is quite a challenge. The first time we took a full-sized pushchair down into Nový Svět, I thought it would be a breeze. Quite the opposite — Jonáš was bouncing around like he was on a trampoline. If you have a young child, I’d strongly recommend a baby carrier instead. Lukáš popped him into the carrier for the roughest stretches and we were both much more relaxed straight away.
Read Next
What to See in Prague: 100+ Tips on Sights, Cafés & Restaurants Prague Castle: The Complete Guide for 2026 * Where to Get Coffee: The Best Cafés in Prague
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to visit Hradčany and Strahov?
If you want to see the Strahov Library, Loreta and stroll calmly through Nový Svět all the way to Hradčanské náměstí, set aside at least half a day (around 4 to 5 hours). With lunch in the brewery, easily even longer.
Can I take photos in the Strahov Library?
Yes, but only if you purchase a photo permit. This applies to phone cameras as well. Without it, the guards will stop you. You’re not allowed to enter the halls themselves to protect the books—photos are taken from the doorway.
Is Loreta open in winter?
Yes, Loreta is open year-round, but during the winter months (November to March) it has slightly reduced opening hours. Always check their website for current times before visiting.
How do I avoid the crowds at Hradčany?
The basic rule is to arrive early in the morning (before 9:00) or in the late afternoon (after 17:00). It also helps to take the route through Nový Svět and Pohořelec, where organized groups with guides usually don’t go.
Can I get vegetarian food at Klášterní pivovar Strahov?
As a vegetarian, I’ll be honest—it’s nothing to write home about. They have classic beer snacks like pickled cheese or pretzels, and occasionally you’ll find a meatless risotto or salad on the menu, but the main draw here is meat and beer.
Is Černínský palác open to the public?
The ministry building itself is closed except for occasional open house days. However, the beautiful French garden behind the palace is open for free on weekends during the summer season.
Where can I find the best free view of Prague?
Right at Hradčanské náměstí by the T. G. Masaryk statue, or on the viewing path (Promenáda Raoula Wallenberga) below Strahov Monastery heading toward Petřín. Both spots are freely accessible.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
