TL;DREvery Ryanair passenger gets one free small bag, 40×30×20 cm, which has to fit under the seat. A bigger cabin bag, 55×40×20 cm and up to 10 kg, only comes with buying the Priority add-on, which runs roughly €12 to €36 each way. You can also buy a checked bag at 10, 20 or 23 kg, and it’s always cheaper booked online than at the desk, where check-in can set you back around €55. The classic mistake is turning up at the gate with a cabin bag but no Priority, which risks a fee of about €46, or an oversized bag, which costs around €70. From 12 November 2025, a digital boarding pass in the myRyanair app becomes compulsory too — only passengers travelling from Morocco still get a paper one.
I’ll admit it: Ryanair stirs up slightly schizophrenic feelings in our house. On the one hand, it has flown Lukáš and me to half of Europe for a few quid, and without it we’d never have managed half of our trips. On the other hand, its Ryanair baggage system is so tangled that one mistake can leave you paying more at the gate than you did for the flight itself. 😅
Over the years, though, we’ve learned where the traps are and how to outsmart Ryanair (legally, just by knowing the rules). Most of the time we fly with only what goes through for free, and we happily smile at the gate while everyone around us frantically reshuffles their belongings and reaches for their cards.
In this guide you’ll find all of Ryanair’s baggage types for 2026, their sizes, weights and approximate prices, a complete overview of fees, plus the most common mistakes that catch travellers out. Ryanair prices change depending on the route and date, so treat these as a guide and always check the current amount when you book.
TL;DR
Free small bag: size 40×30×20 cm, fits under the seat, everyone gets one at no extra cost.
Large cabin bag (10 kg, 55×40×20 cm): only if you buy Priority, otherwise you’ll pay for it at the gate.
Checked bag: 10, 20 or 23 kg, always much cheaper online than at the airport.
Online check-in is mandatory and the boarding pass lives only in the app. Airport check-in costs around €55.
The biggest trap: a large cabin bag without Priority, or an oversized bag at the gate. Both are completely avoidable.
Free cabin baggage: the small 40×30×20 bag
This is the single most important number in the whole article. Every passenger, even on the cheapest fare and without any extra charge, can bring one small bag for free measuring 40×30×20 cm, which must fit under the seat in front of you. Ryanair doesn’t officially state a weight limit; the only condition is that you can lift it and slide it under the seat yourself.
If you’ve previously come across the figure 40×20×25 cm, that’s not a mistake. It was the older Ryanair cabin baggage size, which the airline increased in August 2025 to the current 40×30×20 cm, roughly a fifth more space. So if you have a bag at home sized for the old dimensions, the new rules are actually kinder to you.
With smart packing, you can fit more into a bag like this than you’d expect, easily enough for a long weekend. A soft backpack or holdall works best because it squashes into the sizer more easily, and compression packing helps too. For a detailed walkthrough on how to fit everything into your cabin bag and travel light, see our guide to packing a cabin bag.
💡 Tip: Hard-shell cases are often a problem at the gate because you can’t squeeze them into the sizer. A soft bag or backpack of the same dimensions slips in more easily, even when it’s a little fuller. The Osprey cabin bags we use are a great example.
Large cabin bag (10 kg) and Priority: when it’s worth it
When the small bag isn’t enough, the large cabin bag comes into play, measuring 55×40×20 cm and weighing up to 10 kg, which goes in the overhead locker. The catch is that you don’t get it automatically. You have to pay extra for the Priority & 2 Cabin Bags package, which then lets you bring both the small bag and the large cabin bag, plus you board first.
The price of Priority varies a lot by route and date, but as a rough guide expect around €12 to €36 each way when bought with the flight. On busy holiday routes and at weekends it tends towards the upper end. If you add Priority later through Manage My Booking, you’ll pay more, so decide right when you book.
⚠️ Watch out for the most common trap: if you turn up at the gate with a large cabin bag without having bought Priority, Ryanair will put it in the hold and charge you around €46. So it’s either Priority, or genuinely just the small 40×30×20 bag.
Checked baggage: 10, 20 or 23 kg
For a longer holiday, or when you simply need more, reach for checked baggage in the hold. Ryanair offers three weights: you can buy up to three 10 kg or 20 kg bags, while the 23 kg option is limited to one per person. The maximum size for a checked case is roughly 80×120×120 cm.
Baggage
Size / weight
Price (approx.)
Small bag
40×30×20 cm
free
Large cabin bag
55×40×20 cm 10 kg
~€12–36 (Priority)
Checked 10 kg
up to ~80×120×120 cm
~€9–45 online
Checked 20 kg
up to ~80×120×120 cm
~€19–60 online
Checked 23 kg
up to ~80×120×120 cm
varies by route (max 1)
Approximate Ryanair baggage sizes and prices for 2026. Prices are dynamic, so check the current amount when booking at ryanair.com.
The rule is simple: buy everything online in advance, ideally together with the flight. The same bag sorted at the airport desk will cost you many times more. Checked baggage can be added online up to roughly two hours before departure.
Priority or checked? How to decide
This question decides how much you’ll ultimately pay for your flight, and the answer isn’t clear-cut. It mainly depends on the length of the trip and the number of travellers. To give you an idea, here are three typical situations you’ll probably recognise.
A light weekend (one person): here the free small bag often wins. With a bit of thought, you can comfortably fit two or three days’ worth into 40×30×20 cm and pay nothing at all. Only consider Priority if you want a guaranteed spot in the locker and priority boarding.
A week by the sea (one person): compare the cost of Priority with the 10 kg cabin bag against a 20 kg checked bag. For shorter stays with cheap Priority, Priority usually works out better, and you don’t have to wait at the carousel. But if you need more space or are carrying heavier items, go for checked.
Two people or a family: two separate Priority packages add up, so the cheapest option is often one shared 20 kg checked bag that you pack together, plus a free small bag each. It pays to load all the options into your basket and compare before you pay.
All of Ryanair’s fees (and how to avoid them)
Ryanair makes most of its money on fees for things you didn’t sort out in advance. Here’s an overview of the most common ones and, more importantly, how to avoid them entirely.
Fee
How much (approx.)
When it happens
Oversized bag at the gate
~€70
doesn’t fit in the sizer
Cabin bag without Priority
~€46
10 kg bag without Priority at the gate
Checked bag at the airport
~€46–75
not bought online in advance
Check-in at the airport
~€55 (€30 from Spain)
you didn’t check in online
Replacement boarding pass
~€20
no valid digital pass
The most common Ryanair fees. All of them can be avoided with a bit of preparation.
See the common thread? Almost every fee only appears at the airport or at the gate, when you’ve failed to do something in advance. Sort your baggage and check-in online and stick to the sizes, and you won’t pay a single euro extra.
Online check-in and the digital boarding pass
This is perhaps the trap travellers fall into most often. Online check-in is mandatory with Ryanair. If you don’t check in beforehand via the website or app and try to sort it at the airport instead, you’ll pay around €55 (€30 from Spain). Check-in usually opens a few days before departure.
What’s more, from 12 November 2025 Ryanair scrapped paper boarding passes and now relies exclusively on the digital boarding pass in the myRyanair app. Be careful: a screenshot or PDF isn’t enough, the pass has to run in the live app. So keep your phone charged and download the app before you travel. The only exception is flights from Morocco, where local regulations mean you’ll get a paper pass.
💡 Tip: If you’ve checked in online properly and your phone then lets you down at the airport, since November 2025 Ryanair will issue a replacement boarding pass free of charge. The hefty €20 fee only applies if you have no valid digital pass at all.
Special baggage: children, sports, instruments and animals
Travelling with children or with something unusual? Ryanair has its own rules for that. For each child you can bring two pieces of baby equipment for free, typically a pushchair and a car seat. For a lap infant you can also bring a bag with their things weighing up to 5 kg and measuring 45×35×20 cm.
Sports equipment like skis, a snowboard, a bike or golf clubs and large musical instruments only go in the hold, for a separate fee (roughly €35 to €60 online, a bike up to 30 kg, other items up to 20 kg each). Smaller instruments such as a violin can come into the cabin as long as they fit within the cabin bag dimensions.
And one important point for pet lovers: Ryanair does not carry any animals, neither in the cabin nor in the hold. The only exception is certified guide and assistance dogs on flights within the EU. So if you’re travelling with a dog or cat, you’ll need to choose another airline.
Liquids and what you can (and can’t) take on board
The liquids rule isn’t Ryanair’s invention; it applies at security in general. You can take liquids, gels and sprays in containers up to 100 ml, all together in one clear bag of up to 1 litre, which you take out separately at security. The exceptions are medicines and baby food in the amounts you need.
In 2026, some airports with more modern scanners allow more, but this isn’t the case everywhere and it varies from airport to airport. Reliably plan for 100 ml and treat anything more as a bonus, only if a particular airport allows it. A great trick to sidestep the whole limit is to switch to solid, water-free toiletries, which don’t count as liquids. We cover more of this in our guide to packing light.
Is the end of paid cabin bags coming? (EU 2026)
You may have heard that cabin baggage is set to become free across all airlines. There’s some truth to it, but also some misunderstanding. In January 2026 the European Parliament voted on a position that would require one free small cabin bag in addition to a personal item. It sounds great, but it isn’t law yet.
The proposal still has to be approved by the Council of the EU, meaning the member states, and until that happens the current airline rules apply, including Ryanair’s paid large cabin bag. A Brussels court has also confirmed that Ryanair’s policy complies with European regulations. So until anything changes, plan around what we describe in this article and keep an eye on the news.
What are the dimensions of carry-on baggage with Ryanair?
The free small bag measures 40×30×20 cm and fits under the seat. The large cabin bag for the overhead bin is 55×40×20 cm and weighs up to 10 kg, but you only get that with paid-for Priority. Ryanair increased the small bag dimensions in August 2025 from the original 40×20×25 cm.
How many kg can a Ryanair carry-on bag weigh?
“`html
For the small free bag (40×30×20 cm), Ryanair doesn’t specify an exact weight; it just needs to fit under the seat and you must be able to lift it yourself. Large cabin baggage with Priority has a 10 kg limit.
“`
How much does baggage cost with Ryanair?
“`html
A small bag is free. Priority with a large cabin bag costs approximately €12 to €36 per direction, checked 10 kg roughly €9 to €45, and 20 kg about €19 to €60 online. Prices are dynamic depending on the route and date, and are significantly higher at the airport, so always buy online in advance.
“`
Can I bring both a backpack and a purse on Ryanair?
Without Priority you are only entitled to one free piece of luggage, namely one small bag up to 40×30×20 cm. You cannot take both a backpack and a handbag at the same time, unless they fit together within these dimensions as one piece. Two cabin bags are only allowed with the Priority package.
What happens if the bag doesn’t fit in the sizer at the gate?
“`html
If your luggage doesn’t fit in the sizer, Ryanair will check it into the cargo hold and charge a fee of around €70. Similarly, for a large cabin bag brought without Priority, you’ll pay around €46 at the gate. Therefore, check the dimensions at home beforehand.
“`
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DREgypt’s best family-friendly hotels with waterparks include Pickalbatros Jungle Aqua Park in Hurghada (heated waterpark in winter, beach 700 metres away), Jaz Aquaviva next to the giant Makadi Water World, Pickalbatros Sea World in Marsa Alam with a beach right by the hotel and a rating of around 89%, Jaz Aquamarine with extremely shallow water perfect for toddlers, and the luxury Rixos Premium Seagate in Sharm with twenty heated slides. In total, the article recommends 8 hotels with waterparks across Hurghada, Makadi Bay, Marsa Alam and Sharm el-Sheikh. The big slides usually have a height limit of 120 cm, so if you’ve got smaller kids, it’s worth picking a hotel with its own separate children’s waterpark. The key thing to check is always whether the whole waterpark is heated or just one pool, and whether the beach is right there at the hotel or a shuttle ride away.
If you’re heading to Egypt with kids, you know the success of a holiday often doesn’t come down to the sea or the sights, but to having a water park right at the hotel. Slides, splash pools and a lazy river can keep children busy all day and finally give you a quiet moment over a coffee. When it comes to Egypt hotels with water parks, the country is a paradise, you just need to choose well, because the differences between resorts are huge.
I’ve only been to Egypt myself as a child, so I’m not playing the memory card here, but I’ve honestly worked through the reviews and the experiences of plenty of families. I’ve pulled out the 8 best hotels with a water park across the whole of Egypt, from Hurghada through Marsa Alam to Sharm el Sheikh, and for each one I also note what to watch out for.
Right off the bat, let me share two things worth checking more than the number of slides: whether the water park is heated in winter (otherwise nobody is swimming in January) and whether the hotel has a beach right on site, or whether you have to take a shuttle to the sea.
TL;DR
The largest water park right at the hotel is at Pickalbatros Jungle Aqua Park in Hurghada, and it’s heated in winter.
The biggest water park in all of Egypt is Makadi Water World, reachable from the Jaz Aquaviva hotel.
A beach and water park side by side is offered by Pickalbatros Sea World in Marsa Alam, with a gentle sandy entry.
For the youngest children, Jaz Aquamarine is ideal, with a shallow sea and kids’ slides.
A luxury family choice is Rixos Premium Seagate in Sharm, with heated slides and a brilliant kids’ club.
Watch out in winter: not every hotel heats the whole water park, often just one pool. Always verify the specific dates with your tour operator.
The big slides usually have a 120 cm limit, so for small children look for a separate kids’ water park too.
Before we dive into the specific picks, a few words on what really matters. In winter (November to March), heating is key. But beware of tour operator wording, as many hotels heat only one pool, not the whole water park with the slides, so ask specifically.
The second thing is the relationship between the water park and the beach. In Hurghada and Makadi Bay, many hotels run a shuttle to the sea or you have to cross a road, whereas in Marsa Alam the beach is usually right at the hotel. And third, consider the age of your children: the big flumes typically have a 120 cm limit, so if you have smaller kids, check that the hotel also has a children’s mini water park with little slides and a splash pool.
💡 Tip: The slide counts in tour operator brochures tend to be inflated. Don’t worry about whether there are 35 or 50, but whether they’re actually open and heated on your dates, and how many of them your children can use based on their height.
Egypt hotels in Hurghada and Makadi Bay
This is where you’ll find the most water parks, including the very biggest in the country. Just bear in mind you’ll often need a ride to reach the beach.
Pickalbatros Jungle Aqua Park (Hurghada)
Pickalbatros Jungle Aqua Park is one of the largest water parks right at the hotel in all of Hurghada, with dozens of slides and plenty of pools. For families in winter it has one crucial advantage: the water park is heated, so the kids can let loose even in January. Add to that great entertainment, a mini club and themed restaurants.
The catch is the beach. It lies roughly seven hundred metres from the hotel and you reach it by shuttle across the road. If the main draw for you is the water park and the sea is secondary, it’s a great choice. Anyone who wants the beach right around the corner should look elsewhere.
Jaz Aquaviva (Makadi Bay)
If you want the very biggest water park in Egypt for your kids, stay at Jaz Aquaviva, where guests get daily free entry to the enormous Makadi Water World with dozens of slides, a wave pool and a lazy river. On top of that, the hotel’s own pools are heated in winter and the kids’ club has professional staff.
Keep two things in mind, though: the beach is far away (reached by shuttle) and the water park itself has limited opening hours, roughly ten to five. As a base for water park fun, however, it’s number one.
Titanic Beach Spa & Aqua Park (Hurghada)
Titanic Beach Spa & Aqua Park is a firm favourite with families, neatly combining a water park with a beach. It has dozens of slides, an artificial river and a splash pool with water mushrooms for the little ones, one pool tends to be heated in winter, and a kids’ club and cinema keep the children entertained out of the water too.
The wildest slides have a 120 cm height limit, so the smallest children can’t use them yet. Reviews on standards and food can be mixed, but as a family water park hotel with a beach it works well and at a reasonable price.
Jaz Aquamarine (Hurghada)
Got very young children? Then Jaz Aquamarine is ideal. It has plenty of slides for grown-ups plus separate kids’ ones, a mini club and a playground, but its main strength is the extremely shallow sea, where toddlers can splash safely even some distance from the shore.
That’s also its weakness: the water is so shallow that for proper swimming or snorkelling you have to wade out a long way. For families with toddlers it’s a plus, for swimmers a minus, so choose based on how old your children are.
Egypt hotels in Marsa Alam
Pickalbatros Sea World (Marsa Alam)
Pickalbatros Sea World is my pick for anyone who wants a water park and beach right next to each other. Unlike most Hurghada hotels, it has a gentle sandy entry into the sea right at the hotel, so there’s no annoying shuttle ride to the beach. Plus big flumes, kids’ pools, a splash pool and loads of free sports.
Among families it’s one of the best rated in all of Egypt, with scores nudging 89 percent. The only downside is the longer transfer from the airport, as Marsa Alam sits further south. But for that combination of water park, beach and calm, it’s well worth it.
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to stay in Egypt
6 accommodations — wellness hotels and other accommodation options
On the Sinai peninsula you’ll find more upscale family resorts with heated slides and often a shorter transfer from the airport.
Rixos Premium Seagate (Nabq Bay)
Rixos Premium Seagate is the best luxury family hotel in Sharm. It has twenty slides, heated during the cooler season, kids’ pools and the repeatedly praised Aqua Rixy children’s club. Kids here get their own menu and a programme from morning till night.
It’s a higher price bracket, but you get top-notch ultra all-inclusive and brilliant facilities for the whole family. If you want to combine luxury and a carefree holiday with the kids in Sharm, this is an obvious choice.
Rixos Radamis (Nabq Bay)
A sibling of the previous hotel, Rixos Radamis bets on the sheer number of slides, with twenty-nine in total including separate kids’ zones, which are also heated. On top of that there are games rooms, a kids’ club and sports facilities.
It’s a sprawling resort where families with both bigger and smaller children can easily keep busy all day. Just like its sister hotel, it’s a higher standard with ultra all-inclusive, so you get a generous helping of fun and comfort.
Coral Sea Aqua Club (Nabq Bay)
If you’re after a water park at a reasonable price, Coral Sea Aqua Club is a good choice. It has its own spacious water park, a kids’ pool with a slide, a mini club and entertainment, and a big plus is that it sits just fifteen minutes from the airport, which you’ll appreciate after travelling with small children.
Be prepared, though, for an inconsistent standard, with reviews occasionally mentioning weaker cleanliness and food. As an affordable family option with a water park close to the airport, however, it works well.
Where to find the hotel cheapest
The same hotel and the same dates can easily differ by hundreds of euros between tour operators.
💡 Tip: Before you book a package, check out our comparison of holidays to Egypt. Our AI compares tour operator offers for the exact same hotels and dates every day, and shows you where the same stay is cheapest. And if you’d rather put the holiday together yourself, compare flight prices, which we update every 20 minutes across all airlines.
“`html
The largest water park in Egypt is Makadi Water World in Makadi Bay, which you can access from the Jaz Aquaviva hotel. The largest water park directly on hotel premises is at Pickalbatros Jungle Aqua Park in Hurghada, which is also heated in winter.
“`
Is the aquapark heated in winter?
Not always. Many hotels only heat one pool, not the entire aquapark with slides. Pickalbatros Jungle Aqua Park has a reliably heated aquapark, while Rixos in Sharm has heated slides. Always verify the specific dates with your travel agency.
Which hotel with a water park has a beach right next to it?
“`html
The beach and aquapark right next to each other are offered by Pickalbatros Sea World in Marsa Alam with a gradual sandy entry. In Hurghada and Makadi Bay, many aquapark hotels are reached from the beach by shuttle service or by crossing the road.
“`
What’s the height limit for the slides?
For the big, adrenaline-pumping slides, the height limit is usually one hundred and twenty centimetres. For smaller children, therefore, choose a hotel that also has a separate kids’ mini water park with small slides and a paddling pool, such as Jaz Aquamarine or Titanic Beach.
Which aquapark hotel is best for toddlers?
For very small children, Jaz Aquamarine in Hurghada is ideal thanks to the extremely shallow sea where toddlers can safely splash around, and separate children’s slides. Pickalbatros Sea World in Marsa Alam with its gradual sandy entry is also good.
Will vegetarians and children find enough to eat at the hotels?
Yes. All-inclusive buffets have children’s menus (pasta, fries) and for vegetarians there’s reliably a pizza and pasta station, falafel, hummus, koshari, fresh salads and fruit. Consider the meat and fish dishes just as extras – vegetarians will have no problem finding plenty to choose from.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DRPacking light into hand luggage in 2026 means sticking to your airline’s exact dimensions (usually 40×30×20cm for the free small bag, 55×40×20cm for the paid large cabin bag), picking a travel backpack of 20 to 40 litres, and swapping liquid toiletries for solid versions, which dodge the 100ml limit entirely. Plan your wardrobe for a week at most (3–4 t-shirts, 2 pairs of trousers, no more than 2 pairs of shoes), and wash the rest in a sink as you go. Ryanair, Wizz Air and Vueling only let you bring a large cabin bag if you’ve paid for Priority, while easyJet gives you the most generous free allowance. Liquids still need to be in containers under 100ml, all fitting in one bag under a litre, though Prague’s Terminal 2 has relaxed the rules for Schengen flights since October 2025.
Let me come clean right away: just a few years ago I was one of those people who packed two extra pairs of shoes “just in case” for a week by the sea, three books they’d never read, and a toiletry bag that weighed almost as much as the rest of the suitcase. Then Lukáš and I set off on a long-distance cycling trip from home all the way to Greece, where everything you own has to fit on a bike, and my whole idea of packing turned upside down. ☺️
Since then we’ve travelled a good chunk of Europe by campervan, with a tent, and the classic way by plane, and we’ve learned one thing: travelling light isn’t about going without, it’s about freedom. No waiting at the carousel, no checked-bag fees, no lugging twenty kilos over cobblestones. Just you, one backpack and the feeling that everything you need is right at hand.
In this guide I’ll show you how to pack light into your cabin luggage, what dimensions you need to stay within for each airline, which carry-on backpack to choose and how to cleverly get around that annoying liquids limit. I promise that once you’ve read it, you’ll never again pay for a checked bag you don’t actually need.
TL;DR: how to pack light in a nutshell
Stay within the dimensions. Most budget airlines today let you bring a small bag of roughly 40×30×20 cm under the seat for free. A large cabin bag (55×40×20 cm) usually costs extra.
Choose the right backpack. For light travel a 20–40 litre travel backpack is plenty, ideally one that opens flat like a suitcase.
Plan your wardrobe for a week, not the whole trip. Sort the rest with a quick wash in the sink.
Switch to solid toiletries. Powdered shampoo and toothpaste tablets don’t count as liquids, so the 100 ml limit doesn’t apply at all.
Wear your heaviest items. Shoes and a jacket on your body don’t count towards your luggage weight.
Why travelling with just cabin luggage pays off
You might be wondering whether all the fuss around packing light is really worth it. For me the answer is a clear yes, and there are three big reasons. The first is money: a checked bag with a low-cost airline usually costs you anywhere from £15 to over £40 each way, so on a return ticket you can easily pay more for the suitcase than for the flight itself.
The second reason is time and peace of mind. When everything is in your cabin luggage, you walk straight off the plane and into the city instead of staring at the carousel for half an hour, hoping your bag hasn’t flown off to another country. And the third reason is the best one: freedom of movement. With a single backpack on your shoulders you can handle a connection, the stairs in the Tube and the cobbled lanes of an old town without cursing wheels that get stuck in every crack. 😅
💡 Tip: Try packing light for a longer trip once, not just a weekend. Most people discover that 80% of what they’d normally take for two weeks never gets used, and that you pack pretty much the same for a week as for a month.
Cabin luggage dimensions: what you need to fit within
This is the part people Google the most, and also the one where you can get burned the worst. Every airline has its own limits and, worse still, the budget carriers have changed them quite drastically in recent years. So I’ve put together a rough overview, but please treat it as a guide for June 2026, not gospel.
⚠️ Important: Check the dimensions and weights directly on your airline’s website before every flight. Both Ryanair and Wizz Air changed what they allow for free during 2025, and at the gate they measure without mercy. Thirty seconds of checking can save you a fee that’s often higher than the ticket.
Airline
Small bag free
Large cabin bag
Ryanair
40×30×20 cm
55×40×20 cm 10 kg
Wizz Air
40×30×20 cm 10 kg
55×40×23 cm 10 kg
easyJet
45×36×20 cm 15 kg
56×45×25 cm 15 kg
British Airways
40×30×15 cm
56×45×25 cm 23 kg
Jet2
—
56×45×25 cm 10 kg
Vueling
40×30×20 cm
55×40×20 cm 10 kg
TUI
—
55×40×20 cm 10 kg
Approximate cabin luggage dimensions as of June 2026. Always check the current rules on the airline’s website.
And here’s what to watch out for with individual airlines, especially what costs extra:
Ryanair, Wizz Air and Vueling: you only get the large cabin bag with Priority or a more expensive fare, otherwise you’re left with the small under-seat bag.
easyJet: has the most generous free bag, the large cabin bag costs extra or comes free with easyJet Plus.
British Airways: generally lets you bring both a small personal item and a full cabin bag even on basic fares, which is rare among short-haul carriers.
Jet2: includes a full 10 kg cabin bag in the standard fare on most routes.
TUI: usually allows one cabin bag up to 10 kg, but check your specific package or flight.
What the dimensions 40×30×20, 40×20×25 and 55×40×20 mean
When you come across these numbers and don’t know what to make of them, here’s a quick translation. 40×30×20 cm is today’s most common size for the small bag that most budget airlines (Ryanair, Wizz Air, Vueling) let you bring under the seat for free. That’s the size worth aiming for if you want to fly with no extra charge at all.
The number 40×20×25 cm, which you might still see in older guides, was Ryanair’s earlier size; today many sources list it as outdated, so don’t rely on it. 55×40×20 cm (or sometimes 55×40×23 cm) is the large overhead cabin bag, usually with a limit of around 8 to 10 kg. But you almost never get that for free now, so expect to need Priority or a higher fare.
💡 Tip: If you want one backpack that fits into as many planes as possible, look for a size up to 55×40×20 cm. It’ll fit where the allowance is a few centimetres bigger too, and you’re sorted across airlines.
Which carry-on backpack to choose
The backpack is the heart of travelling light, and it’s worth investing in. Depending on whether you want to fly completely free or pay a bit more for extra space, you’re choosing between two categories.
If you’re aiming for the free small bag under the seat, look for a compact travel backpack of around 20 litres with dimensions up to 40×30×20 cm. Decathlon does this brilliantly in its Forclaz travel range, where you’ll find models practically tailor-made for these limits at a friendly price. You can fit surprisingly much in there when you pack with thought.
If you want more space and are planning for a large cabin bag, reach for a 40-litre travel backpack with a full clamshell zip that opens like a suitcase. A classic is the Osprey Farpoint 40 (and its women’s version, the Fairview 40, with a shorter back system), which carries beautifully and has hideaway straps so it looks smart. Also popular are the ultralight Cabin Zero models (the 36 and 44 litre versions weigh only around 700 grams) or the premium Tortuga backpacks.
⚠️ Mind the depth of the backpack. Plenty of “travel” backpacks are over 23 cm deep, and it’s precisely that which gives you away with strict airlines. A fully stuffed backpack also swells up, so the real dimensions tend to be bigger than the ones on the label. Before you buy a backpack, check its measurements against the airline you fly with most.
💡 Tip: You’ll find specific models of backpacks, bags and suitcases — with dimensions, weight, price and a clear comparison table — in our overview of the best cabin luggage for flying.
How to pack light: technique step by step
You may have heard that you just roll everything up and you’re done. The truth is a bit more interesting. Folding clothes in stacks is actually the worst thing you can do, because lots of dead space builds up between the folded pieces. Rolling works great for soft items like T-shirts, underwear and socks, which you can then tuck into gaps, but it doesn’t save as much space as people claim, and shirts come out faintly creased.
The best trick for crease-free packing is so-called bundle wrapping, where you layer your clothes on top of each other and wrap them around a soft core (rolled-up socks, for instance). The tension from wrapping smooths out the wrinkles, and jackets and shirts end up on the outside where they don’t crease. The only downside is that you have to unwrap the whole bundle for one item, so it suits trips where you’ll unpack properly at your destination.
And what about those famous packing cubes? Classic cubes save almost no space; their magic is in organisation — you separate clean from dirty and pull out a whole “drawer” at once. When you really want to shrink the volume, get the compression versions with a second zip that squeezes out the air. They have just one catch: clothes crease more, and above all it’s all too easy to cram so much into the saved space that you blow past the weight limit. 😅
💡 Tip: Put the heaviest items (a book, chargers, the toiletry bag) as close to the back panel of the backpack as possible, and as low down as you can. A centre of gravity near your back keeps the backpack stable and stops it pulling you backwards, so it’s far more comfortable to carry.
Capsule wardrobe: how much of what to take
Here’s the biggest secret of packing light: you don’t pack for the whole trip, you pack for a week. Whether you’re going for ten days or a month, you get by with roughly the same amount of clothing — you just do one wash halfway through. Quick-drying laundry dries overnight, so a wash in the sink or at a launderette every five to seven days solves the whole problem.
To make everything mix and match nicely, I go for a capsule wardrobe in a single colour family, where every piece works with every other. Rough quantities that fit into a cabin bag look like this:
3–4 T-shirts or tops (merino can take several wears without washing)
3–6 pairs of underwear and 3–4 pairs of socks, ideally quick-drying, not cotton
2 pairs of trousers or skirts (one pair worn straight away)
1 hoodie or jumper as a mid-layer
1 light packable jacket you wear on the plane
The key is the material. Steer clear of cotton and denim, which are heavy, slow to dry and crease easily. Reach for merino and technical synthetics, which are light, dry quickly, and merino doesn’t start to smell as fast either, so you can wear it longer between washes.
Shoes: cabin luggage’s biggest enemy
Shoes are the most demanding thing you carry both in bulk and in weight, so be most sparing with them. The rule is two pairs maximum, ideally just one comfortable all-rounder for walking and one light extra pair (sandals, flip-flops or something smarter, depending on your destination).
Put the heaviest pair on your feet for the journey — that saves you loads of space and weight in the backpack. Pack the shoes in your bag along the bottom against the wall, soles facing the edge, and stuff the insides with rolled-up socks or underwear so you don’t lose dead space. And drop them into a fabric bag so they don’t dirty your clothes. I’ve written about it all in detail, including how to cover formal occasions too, in a separate article on shoes in cabin luggage.
Light toiletries and waterless cosmetics
This is, in my view, the smartest move in the whole light-packing game, and at the same time the one most people overlook. Classic cosmetics are all liquids, and those are exactly what restrict you most in cabin luggage. Every bottle has to be 100 ml or less, everything must fit into a one-litre clear bag, and at security you often have to pull it out as well.
The solution is elegantly simple: switch to solid and waterless cosmetics. Powdered shampoo, toothpaste tablets, solid soap and solid deodorant don’t count as liquids, so the 100 ml limit doesn’t apply to them at all, and you can take as much as you like outside the bag. You’ll sail through security without a single frown.
I was a sceptic for ages, but on one campervan trip we tried a travel set of waterless cosmetics from nanoSPACE Cosmetics and honestly it won me over. The set includes powdered shampoo (just sprinkle it on your head, wet it and lather), toothpaste tablets with hydroxyapatite, which clean teeth beautifully and gently whiten them, soap tablets and mouthwash tablets. Everything is 100% natural, preservative-free and suitable even for people with allergies.
What surprised me most is how compact and long-lasting it is. The whole set fits in a pocket and weighs next to nothing, yet one pack of powdered shampoo lasts about twenty uses. For light travel it’s ideal, because you sort out your hygiene, save space and weight, and above all skip the whole clear-bag lottery at security.
💡 Tip: For what genuinely has to be liquid (eye drops, perfume, medicines), decant it into travel bottles of 100 ml or less. And remember that plenty of things like shower gel or toothpaste can simply be bought once you arrive, so you don’t need to carry a whole holiday’s supply.
Liquids and airport security: the current rules
There’s plenty of confusion around liquids, because the rules have changed over the past two years. So let me take it from the top. The basic rule still applies and you should count on it everywhere: liquids, gels and sprays only in containers of 100 ml or less, all together in one clear resealable bag of up to 1 litre, one bag per person.
Newer scanners (so-called CT scanners) at some airports allow you to bring more liquids, even a container of up to 2 litres, but it doesn’t apply across the board — it varies from airport to airport and often even from terminal to terminal. Several UK airports have been rolling out these scanners, but the situation keeps shifting and some have temporarily reverted to the 100 ml rule while equipment is finalised. So check your specific departure airport before you fly.
💡 Tip: Always rely on the 100 ml rule and treat a higher limit as a pleasant bonus, only when it’s explicitly allowed on your specific route. On the way back or at a connection a stricter regime may well apply, so don’t count on it in advance. And that’s exactly why solid cosmetics are so practical — you bypass all this uncertainty.
Two more things you often ask about. Power banks and spare batteries always belong only in cabin luggage, never in checked bags; a regular consumer power bank up to around 27,000 mAh is fine. From 2026 onwards you should also keep it within reach and not charge it during the flight. And medicines, baby food or special dietary items can be carried over the limit too — just declare them separately at security and, for liquid medicines, it’s best to have a doctor’s note.
How to get your bag under the weight limit
Sometimes you fit within the dimensions but get caught out by the weight, especially with airlines that have a limit of around 7 to 8 kg. Luckily there are a few tricks to lighten your bag without having to leave half your things at home.
Wear your heaviest items. Shoes, a jacket and your heaviest trousers worn on your body don’t count towards luggage weight.
Use your jacket pockets. Small heavy electronics, a power bank and chargers can hide in the pockets of your outer layer.
Go digital with paperwork. Documents, tickets, bookings and guidebooks go on your phone, and read books on an e-reader.
Don’t carry supplies. Shower gel, toothpaste and sun cream can all be bought at your destination.
Weigh your backpack at home. Pop it on the kitchen scales so nothing surprises you at the gate. Compression cubes save volume, but not weight.
Common mistakes when packing light
Before you start packing, have a look at the most common slip-ups I once got burned by myself. Avoid them and you’re halfway there.
Packing “just in case”. Items for unlikely scenarios are by far the biggest space eaters. Pack for an ordinary day and sort the exceptions on the spot.
Too many shoes. The second costliest sin right after “just in case”.
Cotton and denim. Heavy, slow to dry and they sabotage washing on the road.
A full first-aid kit and toiletry bag. A few plasters and the basics will do; you can buy the rest at any pharmacy.
An untested backpack. “Cabin” on the label doesn’t mean it’ll pass with your airline, mainly because of the depth.
Cabin luggage packing list
To finish, here’s a universal packing list you can copy and tick off. It’s based on packing for a week, but as you now know, it’ll see you through a longer trip too.
Clothes: 3–4 T-shirts, 1 hoodie, 2 pairs of trousers, a week’s worth of underwear and socks, a light jacket, pyjamas, swimwear
Shoes: 1 all-round pair on your feet + 1 light extra pair
Liquids up to 100 ml: only the essentials in one clear bag
Electronics: phone, charger, short cable, power bank, universal adapter, e-reader
Documents: passport, cards, copies on your phone, travel insurance
First-aid kit: plasters, your medicines, something for pain, antiseptic
Where to go next
If packing light has hooked you, I’ve got a few follow-up articles for you. If you’re working out how to have nice clothes in your cabin luggage too while travelling with the bare minimum, check out the tips in Travelling Light: Style and Freedom in One Backpack. And if you’re not sure about the very basics of what to pack at all, browse our overview of what to take on holiday. Safe travels, and may your backpack never weigh more than it has to. ☺️
How many kilos can carry-on luggage weigh?
It depends on the airline. Large cabin baggage for the overhead compartment typically has a limit of around 8 to 10 kg (Smartwings and Lufthansa 8 kg, Ryanair and Wizz Air 10 kg). The free small bag under the seat often has no stated weight limit, it just needs to fit the dimensions and you must be able to lift it yourself. Always check the current limit on the airline’s website, as they change.
Do solid shampoo bars or toothpaste tablets count as liquids?
No. Solid and water-free cosmetics, such as powder or bar shampoo, toothpaste tablets, bar soap and solid deodorant, are not counted as liquids. The 100 ml limit does not apply to them, so you can take as many as you want and you don’t need to put them in a transparent bag.
What backpack size for a week of lightweight travel?
When traveling light, a backpack between 20 and 40 liters is more than enough. Around 20 liters fits in a small bag for free under the seat, a 40-liter backpack offers more space, but usually already counts as large cabin baggage for an extra fee. With smart packing and doing laundry on the road, the same backpack is sufficient even for a longer vacation.
Is a backpack a carry-on?
Yes, a backpack can be carry-on luggage if it meets the airline’s size requirements. Pay special attention to the backpack’s depth, because a fully stuffed backpack will bulge and at the gate they measure including wheels and straps. Ideal is a travel backpack with dimensions up to 40×30×20 cm for a free small bag, or up to 55×40×20 cm for large cabin baggage.
What can’t you put in carry-on luggage?
Sharp objects with blades longer than approximately 6 cm (knives, larger scissors), liquids over 100 ml outside the permitted bag, and flammable materials are not allowed in carry-on luggage. On the other hand, power banks and spare batteries must always be in carry-on and never in checked luggage. Medications and baby food can be carried above the limit, but declare them at security.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DRBetween Hurghada and Marsa Alam, Hurghada wins for families with kids and first-timers, thanks to shallow sandy beaches, huge water parks and the easiest flight connections (over four hours in the air, plus around 30 minutes’ transfer to your hotel). Marsa Alam, on the other hand, is the pick for couples, divers and anyone after a quieter stay – you’ll find pristine coral reefs right off the beach, and the bays of Abu Dabbab and Marsa Mubarak are a regular spot for sea turtles and even the rare dugong. In winter the sea in Marsa Alam runs 2 to 3°C warmer, while Hurghada gets more of that chilly wind. Hurghada tends to be the cheaper option (a week’s all-inclusive in a 4-star hotel from 12,000–14,000 Czech crowns), with Marsa Alam running roughly 10–20% pricier. An Egyptian visa costs $25 either way.
When you settle in of an evening with a glass of wine and start scrolling through offers for a sun-soaked holiday on the Red Sea, sooner or later you’ll bump into one rather fundamental dilemma. Should you pick Hurghada for your getaway, or is Marsa Alam the better bet? Believe me, even though both of these popular Egypt resorts sit on the very same coastline and are barely 300 kilometres apart, they offer a completely different experience. It’s really not about which place is objectively better — it’s about the mood you’re in, what you expect from your time off, and exactly who you’re travelling with.
Picture this: you’re travelling with little ones who long from morning till night to build endless sandcastles and shriek their way down water slides. In that case you’ll be absolutely thrilled by the slightly busier resorts with shallow sandy beaches and huge water parks. But if, on the other hand, you’re after blissful peace and quiet, you want to slip into the silence of the underwater world and swim with giant turtles in the warmest possible water even in the middle of January, that same resort would probably disappoint you — and you’ll simply need to head a good way further south.
In this guide we’ll take a calm, detailed look at how the two destinations compare, so you can settle the question once and for all. We’ll cover absolutely everything from logistics and flight access to the quality of the beaches and coral reefs, right through to the overall cost — because the budget matters too. You’ll find out exactly where the pesky touts are waiting for you and where, instead, you’ll hear nothing but the lapping of the waves 😅. By the end of the article you’ll know for certain which option is truly the right one for your dream holiday.
TL;DR
Hurghada is a considerably bigger and livelier resort, with by far the most direct flights and a truly huge amount of entertainment and buzzing nightlife.
Marsa Alam is the calmer, more natural alternative, where people go mainly for healing silence and the very best coral reefs right outside the hotel.
In the winter months the sea in Marsa Alam is warmer (by roughly two or three degrees Celsius), while Hurghada often suffers from a fairly strong, cooler wind.
For families with young children, Hurghada wins hands down thanks to shallow beaches with beautifully fine sand and enormous hotel water parks.
Keen divers and snorkellers should clearly choose Marsa Alam, where in the Abu Dabbab and Marsa Mubarak bays you’ll routinely meet sea turtles and even rare dugongs.
Hurghada tends to be a touch cheaper, because the sheer competition between thousands of hotel beds and more frequent flights reliably pushes overall package prices down.
An Egypt visa costs the same 25 USD in both places, and you’ll sort it out with no fuss at all right after arrival, at the bank desk in the airport.
A Quick Comparison of the Egypt Resorts
If you need to decide quickly and don’t have a spare moment to study every single detail, I’ve put together a clear comparison table for you. You’ll find the most important differences between the two destinations laid out neatly side by side, and a more detailed breakdown of each point is waiting for you right below it.
Feature
Hurghada
Marsa Alam
Flight access
Excellent (frequent direct flights)
Good (fewer flights, sometimes a transfer)
Type of beaches
Shallow, sandy, gentle entry
Reef beaches, often entry via a jetty
Coral by the hotel (house reef)
Weaker, often damaged by tourism
Stunning, alive, full of fish
Sea temperature in winter
Cooler (often a strong wind)
2 to 3 °C warmer (more southerly)
Attractions and water parks
Huge choice, large complexes
Minimal, mostly smaller pools
Nightlife and shopping
Very busy (marina, clubs, markets)
Almost none (except Port Ghalib)
Rare wildlife
Seen mostly on boat trips
Turtles and dugongs by the beach
Price level
Usually a bit cheaper
Slightly pricier (you pay for peace and reef)
Ideal for
Families with kids, first-timers
Couples, divers, nature lovers
How Hurghada and Marsa Alam Differ
So let’s finally dive into the really important details that set these two popular areas apart. Although both sit safely in Egypt and share exactly the same culture and currency, their atmosphere and overall infrastructure developed at a completely different pace. Hurghada has been the classic tourist giant for decades now, while Marsa Alam still clings somewhat to the air of a far more exclusive and slightly wilder destination.
1. Getting There and Transport
When it comes to logistics, Hurghada is the clear winner, because it’s simply the largest and by far the most accessible Egyptian resort on the entire Red Sea coast. It’s served by far more direct charter and scheduled flights than anywhere else, so from the UK you’ll easily find flights or full package holidays — and during the main summer season the choice of direct routes from regional airports widens even further.
The flight to Hurghada from London takes around five hours, which is still a pretty comfortable journey that’s easy enough to manage. Once you land at the modern international airport, the transfer to most hotels takes thirty minutes at most. Honestly, this lightning-fast access is a huge plus, especially for all of you travelling with small and often rather impatient children, who want to get them to the sea as quickly as humanly possible.
Marsa Alam does have direct flights from the UK too, but they’re noticeably less frequent, and the choice from regional airports can be downright dismal. On top of that, it unfortunately happens fairly often that tour operators quietly combine a stay in Marsa Alam with a landing at Hurghada airport. Be warned: in that case you’re in for a really long and rather exhausting coach transfer across the desert, which can easily take three to four hours.
So if the easiest possible journey, the widest choice of dates and simply not wasting more precious holiday hours on a coach really matter to you, Hurghada is the incomparably more comfortable choice. With Marsa Alam, on the other hand, always check carefully which airport your flight actually lands at, so you avoid the genuinely unpleasant surprise of a night-time drive that leaves you nothing but worn out.
2. Beaches, Sea and Winter Temperatures
The difference in the character of the beaches is probably the single most important factor when you’re wrestling with the choice with your family or friends. Hurghada boasts mostly shallow, sandy beaches with such a fine, gentle entry into the sea that you can wade tens of metres from the shore and the water will still barely reach your waist — which makes it an absolutely safe and ideal playground for younger children and casual swimmers.
But every fairy tale has its “but”, and in Hurghada the price for these perfect sandy shores is fairly high. Put simply, due to massive hotel development and decades of not-exactly-gentle tourism, the local coral reefs right by the beach are often dead or completely destroyed. So if you long to enjoy the real underwater colours, you’ll have no choice but to pay for a full-day boat trip — head, for instance, to the popular Giftun Island, where the sea is still crystal clear and teeming with life.
Marsa Alam offers the exact opposite scenario, because its beaches are noticeably wilder and typically reef-fringed. For you this means that to reach deeper water and the coral itself you’ll often enter via a long wooden jetty that elegantly spans the shallows. And although that’s far from convenient for small children, believe me, your reward is an absolutely fantastic coral reef — the so-called house reef — that you’ll fall in love with right outside your hotel.
You’ll feel the most significant difference mainly in the winter months. Because Marsa Alam lies an impressive 300 kilometres further south, its sea in January and February is two to three degrees warmer than in the north. What’s more, Hurghada unfortunately sits in an area where a chilly wind very often blows in winter, and that can knock the perceived temperature right down the moment you step out of the water 😅. For a winter escape to the warm sun, this sunny south is therefore a clear, undisputed winner.
3. Snorkelling and Diving
Although the whole of this amazing Red Sea hides incredible underwater treasures, Marsa Alam is without exaggeration a true paradise for lovers of the marine world. This is precisely where enthusiastic divers from all over Europe happily gather, because the reefs here are simply far better preserved, beautifully more colourful and, above all, considerably less crowded with noisy boats and throngs of tourists.
The single biggest draw of this southern resort is undoubtedly the rare marine creatures you can observe in complete peace in their natural habitat. In the popular Abu Dabbab and Marsa Mubarak bays you’ll routinely meet huge sea turtles, and with a little luck a shy dugong — the sea cow — will pop out to graze on the seabed, while a touch further south at Sataya Reef playful pods of wild dolphins await you.
Hurghada does offer excellent diving conditions at first glance too, but the reality is that it’s done more in the form of mass boat trips, where dozens of boats often anchor around a single reef at the same time, which understandably scares the fish away and rather spoils the overall experience. For complete beginners who want to pop a snorkel on twice over the whole holiday, that’s perfectly fine — but experienced divers really wouldn’t be impressed here.
For both resorts, though, definitely don’t forget to pack a decent pair of water shoes — that’s my honest advice and an absolute must. Sharp fragments of dead coral or unpleasant sea urchins often lurk on the seabed, and these shoes will reliably protect you from an injury that could otherwise ruin the rest of your dream time at the sea. And if you’ve done a bit of swimming before, definitely bring your own snorkelling gear too, because the kit from the local rental places is sometimes in a pretty sorry state.
4. Entertainment, Excursions and Nightlife
Anyone who’s after a bit of buzz on holiday and doesn’t fancy spending every evening dutifully sitting in their room with a book will win hands down with Hurghada. Over the past few decades this town has transformed into a huge, pulsating metropolis of entertainment, where you’ll find modern water parks with dozens of crazy slides, an enormous sea aquarium and even the Sindbad tourist submarine, which takes you on a completely dry excursion deep below the surface.
In the evening, Hurghada practically lures you out for long strolls — you can head straight to the lovely, modern marina full of luxury yachts, cafés and restaurants, where life pulses long into the night. But I have to honestly warn you about the downside of all that buzz, because in the streets you’ll struggle to dodge the assertive touts who’ll try every trick in the book to lure you into their little shops of spices and perfumes, and after a few days that can get pretty exhausting.
Marsa Alam, by contrast, is the very synonym for the complete, undisturbed peace we all sometimes need so badly. Most of the luxury resorts here stand beautifully isolated in the middle of the golden desert, and beyond the hotel walls you’ll find almost no life at all — so there’s no town centre with shops and no local vendors to pester you. Believe me, people come here mainly to soak up the sacred silence, listen to the lapping of the waves and lose themselves in the incredibly clear, starry sky each evening.
The only minor exception in the south is the charming little harbour town of Port Ghalib, with a small promenade dotted with a few shops and cosy cafés, where hotels fairly often run evening shuttles. Keep in mind, though, that the choice of organised sightseeing tours from Marsa Alam is noticeably more modest, and the journey to historic Luxor or Cairo takes several hours longer than from the more northerly resorts, so you’ll need to set aside more time for these wonders.
5. Who Each Resort Suits Best
So, summing it all up — who’s going to love it where? Hurghada should be chosen mainly by families with children and all of you flying to Egypt for the very first time who don’t want to put a foot wrong. The fine sand, safe beaches, quick transfer from the airport to the hotel and the endless entertainment in the form of various kids’ clubs and giant water parks make it an absolutely perfect choice for an active holiday full of children’s laughter.
You’ll also appreciate this more northerly resort if you love shopping for souvenirs, proper Arabic haggling at traditional markets and sipping evening cocktails in lively bars. It’s simply a destination for extroverted souls who want to soak up a slice of the real local chaos and don’t mind a slightly noisier, livelier setting at all.
On the other hand, Marsa Alam is a perfect haven for couples longing for romance, for passionate divers and for anyone seeking an absolute digital and mental detox from everyday cares. If your idea of the ideal holiday is swimming on a completely deserted coral reef the moment you wake up, then opening a book with a glass of wine on the terrace in total silence in the evening, you’ll be in seventh heaven here.
At the same time, it’s a destination I’ll strongly recommend to all winter travellers with a clear conscience. When it’s bitterly cold back home and you want to properly warm up, believe me, those extra two or three degrees in both sea and air temperature make an enormous difference. You’ll avoid the unpleasant wind and be able to enjoy a lovely swim even in the months when, in Hurghada, you might well be sitting on a sun lounger wrapped in a fluffy towel.
6. Prices and Holiday Budget
A quick glance through the holiday catalogues will probably soon reveal that Hurghada usually works out a bit cheaper. The reason is utterly simple and purely economic: there’s just an enormous density of hotels of every kind that have to constantly fight over every single customer. Add to that a large number of slightly cheaper charter flights, and overall package prices get pushed down very pleasantly indeed.
A standard week’s stay at a decent four-star all-inclusive hotel in Hurghada will commonly cost you from around 480 to 560 € per person, provided you travel outside the main peak. On top of that you can fairly easily find very cheap accommodation options in the town centre, which are absolutely ideal for backpackers and slightly less demanding travellers who spend most of their time out on day trips anyway.
Marsa Alam, by contrast, targets a slightly different and rather more specific clientele. The resorts here are usually newer, far more sprawling and focus more on that premium experience tied to exploring the underwater world. For this complete peace, the cut-off from civilisation and the gorgeous coral reef you’ll usually pay a slight premium — roughly ten to twenty percent more than for a comparable hotel in the north.
💡 Tip: If you want to save a fair bit, I warmly recommend not being tempted by the very first shiny offer. Before you pay for anything, take a look at booking on Booking.com to compare hotel prices and find the lowest rate. And if you’re an adventurous soul who prefers to travel independently, don’t forget to check current flight prices so you don’t overpay.
7. Practical Tips That Apply to Both Resorts
Whether you ultimately decide to head north or south, there are a few utterly practical rules that apply universally across the whole of Egypt. The first is the visa requirement. A tourist visa to Egypt always costs 25 USD (you can also pay in euros), and you’ll buy it calmly and stress-free right after arrival at the bank desks in the airport hall, before passport control. Just please don’t be tempted by the overpriced services of some reps, who quite often happily charge nonsensical extra fees for it.
Another quirk you simply have to brace yourself for a little is the ever-present culture of baksheesh, or simply tipping. A little something is expected here for absolutely everything — from carrying your bags to the daily room clean to service in the hotel restaurant. So it’s absolutely key to break your money into small notes right after you arrive (ideally plain one-dollar bills), so you’ve got something to reward the smiling staff with, which will guarantee you noticeably better service throughout your holiday.
As for health and a bit of basic safety, always bear in mind that tap water isn’t drinkable in Egypt — don’t even try to brush your teeth with it. Always reach for bottled water. And if you should be struck by those all-too-familiar tummy troubles (yes, I’m talking about the famous Pharaoh’s revenge), whatever you do, don’t despair — just nip to the local pharmacy for the tried-and-tested medicine Antinal, which tackles the local bugs far better and faster than any pills brought from home 😅.
And when it comes to those terrifying shark fears that occasionally fill the newspaper headlines, you can actually relax. Attacks in the Red Sea are entirely exceptional and statistically really very rare. You just need to use basic common sense — don’t swim in the open sea too early in the morning or at dusk, and definitely don’t feed the fish by the reef. Believe me, the vast majority of tourists won’t come across a single toothy predator during their stay.
Conclusion: Who Hurghada Suits and Who Marsa Alam
In the end, the decision between these two Egyptian stalwarts comes down purely to your personal priorities and what you actually expect from a break. Believe me, there’s genuinely no wrong choice here — only the one that simply fits your particular travel style a little better.
Choose Hurghada mainly if you’re heading off on holiday with younger children and absolutely need those beautifully fine sandy beaches with a very shallow entry into the water. It’s an utterly perfect choice for anyone flying to the Arab world for the first time, who doesn’t want to spend long hours in an air-conditioned coach on the transfer from the airport and instead seeks active days full of giant water slides, endless shopping and evening strolls along a beautifully lit, bustling marina.
Choose Marsa Alam, on the other hand, if the true highlight of a holiday for you is more about blissful silence and untouched nature. It’s an absolute must for anyone who really loves snorkelling and wants those giant sea turtles and gorgeously colourful corals right next to the hotel jetty. And don’t forget that if you’re planning that classic escape from the winter cold in January or February, the south offers a noticeably warmer sea and far less of that unpleasant cold wind.
Where to Next
Want to explore this busier northern resort in real detail before you book your flights? Then be sure to read our article Hurghada: 13 Things to See and Do, a thorough guide to this Egyptian giant.
Drawn more to the calmer south and secretly hoping to swim with sea turtles? Click through to Marsa Alam: 13 Things to See and Do for the very best tips on the most magical snorkelling.
Not quite sure which month to go so you neither freeze nor roast? Our big guide When to Go to Egypt / Weather shows you the expected temperatures month by month.
And if you’re considering a completely different area and haven’t firmly made up your mind, take a look at the overview Where to Holiday in Egypt, where we honestly compare just about all the country’s popular destinations.
Search with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
🔗 These are affiliate links — they don't change your price and help us create content. · All experiences →
Frequently Asked Questions
Hurghada or Marsa Alam, which is better?
This is probably the most frequently asked question, but believe me, it only depends on what type of holiday you’re actually looking for. Hurghada is much livelier, easier to reach and offers huge hotel aquaparks as well as nicely shallow beaches, so it’s absolutely perfect for families with children and first-time visitors. Marsa Alam, on the other hand, is significantly quieter, boasts stunning coral reefs right by the beach and is in my opinion absolutely ideal for couples in love and passionate diving enthusiasts.
Where is the sea warmer, in Hurghada or Marsa Alam?
If you’re planning to head out in the winter months (especially in January and February), the sea is definitely warmer in Marsa Alam. It’s usually about two to three degrees warmer, because this area simply lies much further south and closer to the equator. Hurghada can also be quite windy during this period, so if you’re going in winter specifically for sunshine and warmth, I honestly recommend choosing the south ☺️.
Which destination is better for families with children?
For families with small children, Hurghada is usually a much better choice for several practical reasons. You’ll find gentle sandy beaches there with very gradual entry into the sea, lots of huge hotel water parks, and overall simply more options to keep the little ones entertained. In Marsa Alam, the shores are noticeably more often reef-lined, so getting into the water is a bit more complicated via long jetties, which isn’t always quite ideal with energetic kids.
Where is the snorkeling better?
Much better snorkeling right from the hotel beach will undoubtedly be offered in Marsa Alam. You’ll find beautifully preserved and vibrant reefs here, and if you’re lucky, in famous bays like Abu Dabbab or Marsa Mubarak, large sea turtles and the rare dugong will be waiting for you. In Hurghada, unfortunately, the reefs near the beaches are quite badly damaged, so to see the real beauties underwater you usually have to go on paid boat trips.
Where’s easier to fly to from Czechia?
I probably won’t surprise anyone here when I say that it’s significantly easier and more frequent to fly to the resort of Hurghada. It’s actually the largest Egyptian seaside airport, with by far the most direct charter flights from Prague, and during peak season even from Brno and Ostrava. You can also fly beautifully direct to Marsa Alam from the Czech Republic, but there are noticeably fewer connections and the selection of available dates is sometimes a bit more limited, so definitely keep that in mind when planning.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DREven unfit parents can manage the Dolomites with kids, thanks to a cable car network that hauls buggies and dogs up past 2,500 metres, onto Alpe di Siusi or the Seceda ridge above Ortisei. The best time to go is mid-June to early September, ideally avoiding Ferragosto in August, when the mountains actually feel quiet. For a base, Ortisei or Cortina d’Ampezzo both work well, with an apartment running €150–€250 a night in season. There are 12 ideas here sorted by kids’ ages, from flat buggy-friendly paths to Tre Cime di Lavaredo and the bunkers at Cinque Torri, plus tips for rainy days (Bolzano, water parks) and travelling with a dog.
For the longest time, the Dolomites in Italy with kids felt like one big unknown to us. Back when Lukáš and I used to head into these Italian mountains before our son was born, our holidays looked something like this: we slept in a tent or campervan, set off at the crack of dawn for the steepest climbs, and came back utterly wrecked after dark. We lived for that feeling of having conquered another peak. But this year we came here for the first time with two-year-old Jonášek and our two dogs, Kája and Baby. And honestly? We had absolutely no expectations. Our son can’t stand a carrier, and he only started tolerating the pushchair after his second birthday — and even then only when he’s awake. The rest of the time he basically just sleeps in it.
And lo and behold, it turned out to be a completely different holiday, yet just as much of a knockout as it was in our child-free days. Whereas before we’d pick a multi-hour trek every day and head out at sunrise, this year we enjoyed a slow breakfast, soaked up the view straight from the campsite, then caught a bus to a cable car that whisked us comfortably to the top. Up there we’d take a short stroll, test how much our folding travel pushchair could handle, eat ice cream, and spend hours at the mountain huts just gazing at the peaks. For the first time, we got to enjoy places we’d never bothered with before, because they simply weren’t a “long enough” trip for us.
Thanks to all this, we fully appreciated the luxury of the local cable cars — they carry you, pushchair and dog and all, right up into the clouds, where flat green meadows, jaw-dropping views and mountain huts with playgrounds and fantastic Italian food await. After the first day, we were checking cable car timetables instead of elevation maps, and that told us everything. Don’t be afraid to travel with little ones — they’ll show you a completely different side of the Dolomites than the one you know. And honestly, they’re now our new favourite mountains.
Family with a pushchair and two dogs on a mountain meadow in the Dolomites
TL;DR
Cable cars and buses are your best friends — they carry you, pushchair and dog included, straight from the valley up to over 2,000 metres, so no gruelling climbs.
For families with a pushchair, the Alpe di Siusi plateau is paradise, with kilometres of firm, almost flat paths. Even our ordinary folding pushchair managed them.
Choose your accommodation strategically in one spot (a base camp), so you’re not constantly packing and moving with the kids. Ortisei or Cortina are great choices.
A carrier is ideal for the rockier trails — but only if your child tolerates it. Ours refuses one, so we relied on cable cars and flat sections, and it worked out brilliantly.
The mountain huts (rifugi) are geared up for children — you’ll usually find a kids’ menu, high chairs and an outdoor playground with mountain views.
The mountain weather changes incredibly fast, so even in the height of summer, keep warm layers and SPF 50 sun cream in your backpack.
Planning a family holiday takes a bit more logistics than travelling as a footloose couple. When you’re heading into the Italian Alps with little ones, you mainly need to think about stable weather and walkable trails, so you don’t end up battling mud or unexpected snow.
Walking with a pushchair along a comfortable mountain trail in the Dolomites
The Dolomites in summer simply work — we were there in July, and in our view mid-June to early September is the best time. Just brace yourself, because in August the Italians take their national holidays (Ferragosto) and everywhere gets genuinely packed. If you can swing it, September is absolutely magical: the crowds thin out, the air is crystal clear and it’s still pleasantly warm in the sun. The easiest way over from the UK is to fly — the nearest airports are Venice or Treviso, with regular connections from London (Gatwick, Stansted, Heathrow), Manchester and other UK hubs, and from there you pick up a hire car. From the airport it’s a beautiful two-hour drive into the heart of the mountains. If you’d rather drive your own car, you can route through France, Switzerland or Austria — just budget extra time and remember you’ll need motorway vignettes for Switzerland and Austria. Look for cheap flights on comparison sites and book your hire car well in advance.
Where to Stay and How Much It Costs
When you’re travelling with little kids, forget the nomadic lifestyle of sleeping somewhere different every night. We tried it once (a new hotel every other day) and it was chaos. Nappies, snack pouches, the pushchair, the dog… no, thanks. It’s far better to pick one or two strategic “base camps” and do day trips out from there. Accommodation in the Dolomites isn’t the cheapest — in peak season, count on at least €150 to €250 per night for a nice family apartment, but for the comfort and peace of mind, it’s absolutely worth it.
Family having lunch on the terrace of a mountain hut with mountain views
Ortisei in the Val Gardena valley is, in my opinion, the best base for families with pushchairs. It sits right in the heart of the most beautiful views, and crucially, cable cars run straight up to Alpe di Siusi and Seceda, so in the morning you just load the family into the cabin and you’re in paradise within ten minutes. On top of that, Ortisei has a gorgeous pedestrian centre full of shops and cafés, where you can sit back with an evening Aperol while the little one sleeps in the pushchair. You could stay, for example, in the lovely family apartments at Dolomiti Sweet Lodge, which has a small playground for kids and plenty of space to run around.
The other great option is Cortina d’Ampezzo, ideal if you want to explore the eastern part of the range around Tre Cime and Lake Sorapis. Cortina d’Ampezzo is a touch busier and more upmarket, but it offers everything you could need, from supermarkets to pharmacies and excellent restaurants. If you’re more into camping (which kids usually love), we recommend the Cortina Olympia campsite, with great family facilities and wonderful peace and quiet. Just to the south lies the Val di Fassa valley, which I’d recommend more for families with older, more active kids, as the terrain there offers more sporty pursuits and longer treks.
What Kids Can Handle by Age, from the Pushchair to the Chamois
Every parent knows that what works for one child may not work at all for another. Still, as we travelled around we kept notes (what the little ones can manage, and what ends in tears on the rocks), and here’s what we came up with.
Mum with her two-year-old son on an alpine pasture with mountains behind
1. Ages 0 to 4: Cable Cars, Pushchairs and (Maybe) a Carrier
This is exactly the stage we’re in right now with two-year-old Jonášek — and I’ll admit straight away that our kit ended up looking different from what most blogs advise. Our son simply can’t stand a carrier, so the classic “bring a hiking child carrier” tip didn’t apply to us at all. We bet on cable cars, buses and flat high-altitude plateaus, where your child can roll along comfortably in the pushchair while you soak up incredible views without a single steep metre.
Let’s be honest about the pushchair: an off-road pushchair with big air-filled wheels is obviously the best choice for rough ground. But we only have an ordinary folding travel pushchair (a Joolz) — and it’s tougher than anyone would expect. It comfortably lasted a whole day on the Alpe di Siusi plateau. The rule is simple: if your child can sit happily in a pushchair for longer stretches, an off-road model is better; if they tolerate a carrier, that opens up a whole different world of treks. And if they do neither, like ours? No worries — the cable cars come to the rescue.
Our typical “trek” with a toddler — ice cream on the Seiser Alm meadow with mountain views
With children this age, there’s no point planning routes longer than five to seven kilometres, because you need plenty of stops for feeding, nappy changes and letting the little one run around on the grass. Use the cable cars as much as you can, and pick routes that end at a mountain hut, where you can get hot food and a changing table. Above all, don’t rush — the mountain isn’t going anywhere, and your child’s comfort matters far more than an extra kilometre.
2. Ages 4 to 6: First Mountain Steps and Big Motivation
At this age kids walk on their own, but their little legs tire quickly and, more importantly, they lose interest if the path just plods uphill. The trick is to make sure something is always happening, because otherwise comes boredom, then tiredness, then tears — you know the drill. Choose routes with a babbling stream, where they can throw pebbles or build fairy houses.
Small child playing on a meadow with a mountain massif in the background
A good trick is to promise ice cream or a giant slice of pizza at the hut at the end. Routes shouldn’t have much elevation gain, and around six kilometres is usually just right to get through without needless tears or carrying them on your shoulders. We don’t have a child this age yet, but from friends we know that plenty of treats in your pocket solves almost any minor crisis.
3. Ages 6 to 10: Action Heroes on the Trail
According to plenty of parents, this is the best phase for the mountains, full stop — school-age kids have the energy, the stamina and, above all, they love it because adventure is everywhere they look. You can take them on more demanding hiking trails in the Dolomites, which involve gentle climbs and slightly tougher terrain.
A huge hit at this age tends to be the old military bunkers and trenches from World War I, which you can crawl into with a torch, or a first easy taste of via ferratas (protected climbing routes), where kids strap on a harness and feel like real mountaineers. Lukáš is already looking forward to Jonášek growing up a bit so they can explore the dark caverns in the rocks together with their head torches.
Specific Routes and Experiences: 7 Things to Try with Kids
Here’s our personal pick of the most relaxed spots we’ve walked ourselves, the ones where we know neither you nor your kids will suffer. I focused mainly on places where your jaw will drop and where even the littlest ones will have a great time.
4. Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm): Pushchair Paradise
If you want to travel with a pushchair, Alpe di Siusi is a place you simply cannot miss. It’s the largest high-altitude meadow in Europe, and the view of the jagged peaks contrasting with the brilliant green pastures is breathtaking. You ride up comfortably on the cable car from Ortisei and suddenly find yourself on a plateau laced with dozens of kilometres of wide, firm paths. This, by the way, is exactly where our ordinary folding Joolz travel pushchair lasted a whole day — an off-road one would be comfier, but even ours managed it without a hitch.
Dad with a pushchair on a panoramic Alpe di Siusi trail
We spent the whole day here with Jonášek. The cable car costs around €30 per person, but we’d happily have paid more for that view and peace. Cows with adorable bells around their necks graze everywhere, which was a huge attraction for our little one, and every few kilometres you come across a perfectly equipped hut — some even have a small playground. Just watch out for cyclists, of which there are plenty in season, and don’t forget a hat, because there’s almost no shade on the pastures.
5. Seceda: The Most Iconic View, Effort-Free
Mount Seceda is that famous tilted rocky ridge that pops up all over Instagram the moment you search for the Dolomites. The good news for parents is that you don’t have to slog uphill for hours to reach this photogenic wonder. Once again, you’re saved by Seceda and the cable car from Ortisei, which carries you up in two stages to an altitude of 2,500 metres, right to the viewpoint at the top.
Mum with her two-year-old son at the Seceda viewpoint with the Odle peaks
With a pushchair you can reach the main viewpoint and a short way along the ridge, but the longer walk down towards the huts isn’t passable — it’s quite rocky and steep (a carrier would come in handy here, if your child tolerates one). So we didn’t push it: we stayed at the viewpoint, had a lovely picnic, Jonášek ran around the meadow and the dogs Kája and Baby happily sniffed the mountain air. It gets pretty windy up there, so even if it’s t-shirt weather down in the valley, be sure to pack windbreakers and hats for the adults too.
🔗 These are affiliate links — they don't change your price and help us create content. · All experiences →
6. Tre Cime di Lavaredo from the Auronzo Hut
The three massive rock towers of Tre Cime are probably the most famous symbol of the Dolomites. You can come here with kids too, but it has its quirks. A toll mountain road leads up to the Rifugio Auronzo hut (driving in costs €30), which is great because it saves you an enormous climb. From there, a wide and almost flat path leads towards the Rifugio Lavaredo hut.
The three towers of Tre Cime di Lavaredo with a wooden cross, a trip from the Auronzo hut
You can manage this first stretch (about 45 minutes each way) with a decent off-road pushchair, but if you want to go further and do the full loop around the towers, leave the pushchair in the car and take only a carrier. The whole loop is about 10 kilometres and can easily take four hours with younger kids, so don’t plan it with a toddler — we just did the shorter section and turned back. For older children, though, it’s a fantastic adventure, with little tunnels and rock formations along the way. Be sure to arrive early in the morning, ideally before eight, because the toll gate closes mercilessly once the car park fills up.
7. The Fairytale Lake Lago di Carezza
When you want to pause for a moment and show the kids the magic of the local landscape, Lago di Carezza is the perfect choice. This small glacial lake glows an unbelievable turquoise, reflecting the peaks of the Latemar massif. Legend has it that a water nymph lives at the bottom and that the colours in the water come from a broken rainbow thrown in by a lovestruck wizard — a story guaranteed to delight any child.
The fairytale emerald Lago di Carezza beneath the Latemar massif (Photo: Maurizio Napolitani, CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons)
From the car park by the main road, you reach the lake in two minutes via an underpass, so no stress at all. A firm sandy path suitable for all kinds of pushchairs runs around the lake, and you’ll finish the whole walk in half an hour. It’s more of a lovely rest stop than a full-blown trip, but we came just before sunset, when the bus crowds had cleared, and Jonášek backed away from that turquoise water like a child seeing the sea for the first time. That was the moment.
8. Val di Funes and the View of the Santa Maddalena Church
If you’re after a quieter corner of the range that isn’t so crowded, head to the Val di Funes valley. You won’t find giant cable cars or hordes of tourists here, but rather that calm, slow South Tyrolean way of life. The most beautiful photo is taken at the famous little church of Santa Maddalena, with the Odle massif rising dramatically behind it.
The Santa Maddalena church in Val di Funes beneath the Odle peaks
For families with kids, there’s a great gentle route across the meadows to the Geisleralm hut. The path runs through forest and across pastures, the climb is gradual, and the best part awaits at the end: the Geisleralm hut has an amazing playground, lots of sun loungers on the grass, and they make one of the best apple strudels with vanilla sauce for miles around. This route does call for a carrier or off-road pushchair, though — an ordinary one wouldn’t make it in places.
9. Cinque Torri and Exploring the Old Bunkers
The cluster of five rock towers, Cinque Torri, is a huge draw mainly for families with older children, let’s say from six years up. Once again, a two-seater chairlift carries you straight from the main road up to the Rifugio Scoiattoli hut. The view of the towers is stunning, but the real adventure lies right beneath them.
The Cinque Torri rock towers with WWI trenches (Photo: Clemens Stockner, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons)
The whole area is essentially a huge open-air World War I museum. Around the rocks and right inside them are carved trenches, gun ports and military bunkers you can wander through freely. Kids can spend hours running around here, climbing on the rocks and discovering old hideouts, while you settle onto the hut’s terrace and admire the view. Definitely pack a small torch in the kids’ backpacks — they’ll be thrilled.
10. The Cortina Olympia Trail Along the River
Sometimes you just need to take a break from climbing and simply go for a stroll. Around Cortina d’Ampezzo runs an old railway line converted into a perfect cycle path and walking promenade, the so-called Olympia Trail. It’s completely flat, the surface is fine gravel or tarmac, and the whole way you walk alongside a wild turquoise river with views of the peaks.
It’s probably the safest and most relaxed walk we’ve discovered here with a pushchair and the dogs. When the kids’ legs get tired, you simply sit on the riverbank, dip your feet in the icy water and just rest. The route is tens of kilometres long, so you can carve off exactly the chunk that suits you.
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to stay in the Dolomites
3 accommodations — campsites and other lodging options
This was our biggest discovery of travelling with a toddler this year. We used to drive straight through the towns and rush off into the mountains, but with Jonášek we realised that even a slow stroll along a cobbled pedestrian zone or to a nearby church is a lovely activity — and one that almost always ends with ice cream and a playground. Here are our tips for easy walks doable even with an ordinary pushchair.
Ortisei and the Val d’Anna Valley
Ortisei has one of the prettiest pedestrian centres in the whole Dolomites — the cobbled, flat Streda Rezia zone full of shops and cafés practically walks itself with a pushchair. Right in town there’s the Luis Trenker promenade and, beside it, a large playground with a slide, a wooden locomotive and a sandpit.
The pedestrian centre of Ortisei practically walks itself with a pushchair
When you want to venture a bit further, set off on the classic family promenade into the Val d’Anna valley. It leads straight out of Ortisei along a stream, with minimal climbing, and at the end there’s a meadow with a playground, hammocks and a Kneipp wading pool. The surface is rougher in places, so a really lightweight buggy will be a bit of a struggle, but a sturdier pushchair will manage.
Seis am Schlern and the St. Konstantin Church
Seis am Schlern (Siusi) is a quiet town beneath the mighty Schlern massif and the main departure point for the cable car up to Seiser Alm. For a short, relaxed walk, head out from here along an easy path to the picturesque little church of St. Konstantin — it runs through meadows and light woodland with minimal elevation, and there are benches with mountain views along the way.
Peaceful meadows beneath the Schlern massif above Seis
If you want a view without the effort, ride the cable car up from the valley to Tschötschalm on Puflatsch (around 2,000 m). There’s a flat stretch passable with a pushchair and a nice playground — exactly the “up by cable car, then just gaze” style that hooked us so much this year.
Kastelruth (Castelrotto) and the Marinzen Playground
Kastelruth is among the most beautiful villages in Italy — painted facades, a church square with an iconic onion-domed tower and a playground right in the centre. For a quick walk, there’s the Calvary loop (Kofelrunde): a well-maintained path about a kilometre long, practically flat, pushchair-friendly, with little chapels and lovely views over the town’s rooftops.
The biggest draw for kids, though, is Marinzen. From the centre of Kastelruth, a small cable car carries you up to the Marinzenalm hut (around 1,500 m), where there’s a large playground with a long slide, a petting zoo and a pond. It’s flat up top, so no problem with the pushchair, and you won’t be able to drag the kids away.
Around Cortina: Lago di Pianozes and Corso Italia
When you’re based in Cortina d’Ampezzo, you don’t have to head straight for the high mountains. The famous pedestrian zone Corso Italia, with its bell tower in the middle, is flat, cobbled and ideal with a pushchair — bars, patisseries and views of the peaks. A great stop for a coffee and kids’ ice cream between trips.
The centre of Cortina d’Ampezzo with its basilica and bell tower
For a flat walk into nature just outside town, head to the little Lago di Pianozes lake. You can manage the short loop around the water even with an ordinary pushchair in about twenty minutes, and by the lake there’s a restaurant, a kiosk and a small playground. By contrast, watch out for Lago Ghedina and Lago d’Ajal — they’re rocky and steep, so leave the pushchair at home and take a carrier.
When It Rains in the Dolomites: Rescue Plans for Families
Even in summer, the mountains offer no guarantee of sunshine every day. When the clouds roll in, drop into the valley and the rain sets in steadily, there’s no point dragging the kids along muddy trails. Luckily, there are plenty of ways to save the day.
11. Water Parks That Save the Day
Instead of sulking in the apartment, pack your swimsuits and head somewhere warm. A great smaller complex is Acquapura in Cortina d’Ampezzo, where you’ll find indoor heated pools and a paddling pool for the little ones.
If you’re staying in the western part of the range, we warmly recommend driving down a little to the town of Brixen. There you’ll find the huge water world Acquarena Brixen, with several indoor and outdoor pools, water slides and a big wellness zone for the parents. Jonášek loved the warm water, and after several days of walking we relaxed our muscles beautifully.
12. Ötzi and Museums That Won’t Bore Them
When it rains all day, take a drive to the town of Bolzano. The South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology there is home to Ötzi, the famous Iceman, over 5,000 years old, who was found frozen in a glacier. For older kids, seeing a real mummy and his weapons is an unbelievably fascinating experience that easily beats the usual displays of pictures.
In the Val Badia valley you can then visit the Museum Ladin, which tells the story of how the Dolomites formed and where kids can see real fossils and the bones of a prehistoric cave bear. Even we adults had no idea such a giant once lived here, so it was educational for the grown-ups too.
The Dolomites with a Dog: How It Works with Your Furry Friends
We’re used to travelling with our pack, so Kája and Baby couldn’t be missing from our family debut with Jonášek either. Generally, the Italians are very dog-friendly, but since a large part of the Dolomites lies in national parks and nature reserves, you have to follow a few clear rules.
Dad with a pushchair and two dogs on a mountain meadow beneath Sassolungo
💡 Tip: On almost all the cable cars and buses, they want dogs to wear a muzzle (you can buy one practically everywhere, including right at the bottom stations). Honestly, it annoyed us quite a bit — they wanted it even when we were riding in the cabin completely alone. When we had several cable cars in a row ahead of us, we preferred to leave Kája and Baby resting at the campsite.
Dogs must always be on a lead on the mountain trails. Especially on the pastures, like Alpe di Siusi, this is absolutely crucial, because a loose dog could spook the cows or endanger the grazing horses and marmots. The vast majority of cable cars will let you on with a dog without any fuss, usually for a small fee of around €3 to €5. Just keep a muzzle ready in your backpack, as cable car staff occasionally insist on it for the cabin ride.
As for accommodation and restaurants, most mountain huts (rifugi) welcome dogs on their outdoor terraces and will usually bring them a bowl of water. Inside the restaurant it’s more case-by-case, but it’s usually not a problem. With Kája and Baby we comfortably walked part of the Tre Cime route and the valley promenade. One place I definitely wouldn’t go with a dog is the popular Lago di Sorapis — there are several very exposed sections with iron steps and huge crowds, where passing people with a dog is incredibly tricky, so it’s better to do that trek without them.
What to Eat and Drink: A Guide for Fussy Little Taste Buds
One of the biggest perks of a holiday in Italy is that just about every child loves the local cuisine. Forget mealtime boycotts — here you’re saved by food that is perfect in its simplicity.
Family sitting at a wooden table on the sunny terrace of a mountain hut
All the mountain huts cook fantastically and always offer dishes that kids can handle. We absolutely fell in love with Rifugio Averau near Cinque Torri, where they make incredible homemade pasta, and also Rifugio Col Pradat in the Alta Badia valley. At both places we were served with a smile, even when Jonášek was having one of his louder moments.
We always ordered simple pasta al pomodoro (with tomato sauce) or excellent pizza. A local classic is the so-called canederli — large Tyrolean bread dumplings. As vegetarians, we go for the version with cheese or herbs, but traditionally they’re also filled with speck and served in a rich broth or with melted butter. It’s a proper calorie bomb that leaves kids with energy to spare after a trip.
And of course — an absolute must and our daily reward ritual was a proper Italian gelato down in town, which they make phenomenally well in both Cortina and Ortisei. For toddlers like Jonášek we carried food pouches and purées up the hills, but at the huts they’ll happily warm up food you bring or prepare a clean, salt-free broth with a smile.
Practical Advice to Wrap Up: Safety and What to Pack
Mountains are mountains, and even if you’re moving around manicured meadows near the huts, you mustn’t underestimate the preparation. The weather in the Dolomites can switch from clear skies to a heavy hailstorm in just twenty minutes — we’ve experienced it firsthand many times.
Always, even on the hottest August days, keep a waterproof layer and a warmer jumper packed for yourself and the kids. The sun in the mountains above 2,000 metres also burns completely differently than at the seaside. We underestimated it on the first day — Jonášek was as red as a lobster within an hour, even though we’d told ourselves it was overcast. SPF 50 sun cream, good sunglasses and a sun hat are absolute essentials.
As for packing, an off-road pushchair with big air-filled wheels is ideal — but if you don’t have one, like us, don’t despair: even an ordinary folding travel pushchair (a Joolz in our case) holds up surprisingly well on flat plateaus like Seiser Alm, just don’t overload it on rougher ground. And if your child tolerates a carrier, bring it — it opens up more routes. You don’t need to lug loads of water; at every hut you can buy drinks or have your bottles refilled. We’ll definitely head back to the Dolomites with the kids — once you discover how relaxed it is thanks to the cable cars, you won’t want to go anywhere else. 😉
Where to Next
The Dolomites are close to our hearts, and we’ve written plenty of other detailed guides about them on the blog. If you want to plan specific treks or you’re curious about other valleys, take a look here:
When you travel with small children, fortune favours the prepared. We found it well worth sorting out the most important things like flights, a hire car and good insurance well in advance, so that on the ground we only had to decide which side of the hill to head for that day.
Where to Find Flights
Look for cheap flights on a comparison site, where you’ll always find the best combination of connections from the UK to Venice or Treviso. From Venice it’s only a short drive into the mountains.
If you’re flying with a baby for the first time, you’ll definitely appreciate that the drive from the airport to Cortina takes about two hours along a beautiful motorway. So no endless slog with a pushchair and suitcases.
Hiring a Car
Lukáš always checks the comparison sites and so far they’ve never once left us waiting at the airport without a car. 😁 A comparison tool saves us loads of time, whether we’re heading to the mountains or the seaside.
With kids, it’s definitely worth paying extra for a bigger car like an estate or an SUV. Trust me, by the time you’re packing the boot with the pushchair, a mountain of nappies and the adults’ luggage on top, you’ll be grateful for every extra centimetre.
Booking Accommodation
Booking.com is our favourite search engine for hotels and family apartments. In the Dolomites we recommend booking really far in advance, even half a year ahead, because the best family guesthouses disappear at lightning speed.
We always make sure the accommodation has its own little kitchen. With a small child, you simply need to heat water for milk in the middle of the night or whip up a quick snack without having to rely on the hotel restaurant.
Don’t Forget Insurance
Travelling into the mountains without insurance doesn’t pay off, especially with kids. For shorter trips within Europe we go with reliable cover, and for longer stays we use SafetyWing travel insurance. Don’t forget your GHIC (Global Health Insurance Card) for state healthcare in Italy too — but it’s no substitute for proper travel insurance covering mountain rescue.
Medical care in Italy is excellent, but mountain rescue operations or helicopter transport from remote valleys cost an enormous amount of money. So those few extra pounds for insurance are the best investment in your peace of mind.
Data and Internet
Thanks to the end of EU roaming charges from the UK, you may pay a daily fee with your provider in Italy, so check your plan before you go. If you want guaranteed fast data, take a look at our experience with the Holafly eSIM.
Up in the mountains we usually switch the data off now and then to unwind, but for checking the weather apps mobile internet is an absolute must. The radar saved our skin a few times this year from an unexpected downpour.
FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions About Travelling with Kids in the Dolomites
1. Can parents who aren’t trained mountaineers manage the Dolomites with kids?
Definitely yes. Thanks to the extensive network of cable cars that take you up to heights over 2000 meters, you can explore the beautiful flat alpine plateaus without having to climb a single steep hill. The Dolomites are absolutely ideal for out-of-shape parents with children.
2. Can you go around the Dolomites with a stroller?
Yes, but you need to choose your routes carefully. A pram paradise is the Alpe di Siusi plateau, lakeside promenades (Lago di Carezza) and valley paths — even a regular folding pushchair can handle these flat sections. For rougher terrain, an all-terrain buggy with large wheels is better, and for narrower mountain trails you’ll need a baby carrier (if your child tolerates it).
3. Are mountain huts prepared for children?
Most mountain huts (rifugi) cater to families during the main summer season. They typically have high chairs available, will happily warm up baby food you bring, or offer children’s menus (soups, pasta). Many of them also have outdoor playgrounds with sandboxes and climbing frames.
4. What to Pack for Kids on a Hike?
The key is layering. Even in August, the weather in the mountains can change in a flash. Pack a quality waterproof jacket, fleece sweater, sturdy shoes, but also a sun hat, sunglasses and sunscreen with SPF 50, because the mountain sun burns incredibly strong even through clouds. A baby carrier is also handy (if your child tolerates it) and plenty of snacks for older kids to keep them motivated.
5. Do you need to book accommodation in the Dolomites in advance?
“`html
Definitely yes. If you’re planning a trip for July or August, book your accommodation ideally already in January or at the latest in spring. The Italian Alps are very busy in summer and quality family apartments close to the cable cars disappear first.
“`
6. Can dogs go on cable cars and treks in the Dolomites?
“`html
Yes, most cable cars will allow you with your dog (often for a small fee) and in national parks you can walk with your dog without any problems, only it is mandatory to keep them on a leash at all times. For cable cars, it’s always better to pack a muzzle in your backpack as well.
“`
How much do cable cars cost in the Dolomites?
Cable cars aren’t exactly cheap. A return ticket for an adult typically costs between 25 and 40 euros depending on the length of the cable car. Children up to a certain age (often up to 6 or 8 years old) usually travel free or with a significant discount, but this may vary slightly between specific operators. If you’re planning to ride a lot, it’s worth considering multi-day passes.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DRHurghada, Egypt’s Red Sea resort town, has direct flights from London (around 5 hours), and this guide rounds up 13 top things to see and do — from the modern Hurghada Marina and the old El Dahar bazaar to waterparks like Makadi Water World and boat trips out to Giftun Island, with its Orange Bay and Mahmya beaches. The best family-friendly beaches with shallow water are in Makadi Bay, which is sheltered from strong winds and still has one of the few intact reefs right offshore. The best time to go is spring (March to May) or autumn (October to November), with temperatures of 25 to 31 degrees, while summer highs push towards 40 degrees and winter can feel chilly thanks to the wind. From Hurghada you can also do day trips to Luxor (about four hours each way) or to Cairo to see the Giza pyramids.
If you’re thinking about your very first trip to Egypt, there’s a huge chance your choice will land on Hurghada, Egypt. And honestly, that’s no surprise at all, because this sprawling resort town on the shores of the Red Sea works like a kind of Egyptian classic and an absolute safe bet. Picture this: it’s one of the most well-connected resorts on the coast, the flight goes by fairly quickly, and once you arrive you’ll find absolutely everything you’d expect from a classic beach holiday, without having to overthink a single thing.
While the calmer south tempts you with pristine coral and silence, Hurghada is full of life, buzz, and endless options. You’ll find miles of sandy beaches that slope very gently into the water, which makes it an absolute paradise for families with younger children. Add in massive water parks packed with slides, a modern marina lined with cosy little cafés, and traditional oriental bazaars where you haggle over every pound, and you’ve got yourself a holiday packed with experiences.
In this guide we’ll take a look together at 13 things to see and do in Hurghada, so you can squeeze the absolute most out of your time by the sea. We’ll wander the most beautiful beaches on the surrounding islands, I’ll advise you on how to elegantly avoid the annoying tourist traps, and we’ll also explore the options for big history excursions. You’ll also find out which bay to head to if you don’t fancy battling an unpleasantly strong wind.
TL;DR
The most accessible resort: Hurghada offers loads of charter and direct flights, and the flight takes just over four hours, so you’re by the sea in no time.
Ideal for families: Shallow sandy entries into the water and huge hotel water parks make the area a perfect destination for travelling with kids.
Weaker house reefs: The coral right by the hotel beaches is often damaged, and for proper colourful snorkelling you simply have to head out on a boat trip — let’s not sugar-coat it.
A paradise for excursions: From town you can very easily reach the paradise island of Giftun, go quad biking in the desert, or visit the ancient monuments in Luxor or Cairo.
Watch out for the wind: The resort is fairly windy, which is a huge relief in the hot summer, but in the winter months it can feel noticeably cooler here than in the south.
Two faces of the city: You can stroll along the luxurious promenade in the modern Marina, or dive into the genuine chaos of the old bazaar in El Dahar.
Tourist visas: At the airport, buy your visa at the official bank counter for 25 USD (~23 €) and don’t be lured by the touts at the so-called VIP desks, who will try to charge you double.
Egypt works as an amazing year-round destination, since the sun shines here more than three hundred days a year. Rain in this area is an absolute rarity, and if it does happen to rain, it’s usually just a short, rather symbolic shower. By far the most pleasant time to visit, though, is spring and autumn. If you book your flights for the period from March to May or from October to November, absolutely dreamy conditions await you. Temperatures in these months hover in the range of a very pleasant 25 to 31 degrees, and the sea is just refreshing enough without your teeth chattering when you come out ☺️
If you’re tied to the summer school holidays, prepare yourself for the fact that July and August are extremely hot here. The thermometer regularly climbs towards forty degrees and the sun burns with truly unbelievable intensity. The advantage of summer, though, is that the sea feels like a warm bath, so you can spend hours in it. The summer heat is also dispersed fairly well by the ever-present wind, so those high temperatures are a bit more bearable by the water than somewhere inland. Just don’t forget strong sun cream and a hat, because you can get burnt here in about ten minutes.
A chapter in itself is the Egyptian winter. From December to February daytime temperatures still hold around a very nice 20 to 24 degrees, which is absolutely lovely on a sun lounger. But there’s one fairly big catch. Hurghada is very windy in winter and the “feels-like” temperature can drop quite unpleasantly due to strong gusts. There’s even often a red flag flying, which means a strict ban on swimming in the sea because of the big waves.
If you absolutely long to warm your bones in the middle of January and mainly want to dive to the coral, a more southerly resort is a much better choice. For a detailed comparison of the weather and temperatures in each month, definitely check out our in-depth article on when to visit Egypt. Hurghada is simply brilliant, but in winter you’d best pack a light jumper for the evening walks.
Where to Stay in Hurghada
Hurghada itself doesn’t stretch around just one small bay — it actually forms an enormous belt of hotels along the coast, so choosing the right location is absolutely crucial for your holiday. If you love the buzz and want cafés and nightlife literally on your doorstep, look for accommodation in the centre around the Sekalla district. You’ll just have to accept that the beaches are rather artificial and underwater life there is almost non-existent. Highly rated here is the luxurious Steigenberger Al Dau Beach, which offers a beautiful private beach and absolutely first-class service.
Probably the most popular area for families and snorkelling lovers is Makadi Bay, which lies a little further south. Its huge advantage is that it’s sheltered from the strong wind, so you can swim here even on days when an uncompromising red flag is flying elsewhere. On top of that, you’ll find one of the few genuinely nice house reefs in the area. Here I can recommend with a clear conscience the beautiful Fort Arabesque Resort Spa & Villas, from where the coral is just a few steps off the beach.
If you’re after total peace and quiet and don’t mind being a bit away from all the action, look into the Sahl Hasheesh area. There are amazing long promenades and very high-quality resorts here, but it tends to be a bit windier. A great choice with gorgeous views is the popular Tropitel Sahl Hasheesh. For families with younger children, who mainly care about water fun and slides, an absolute hit is the Pickalbatros Aqua Vista Resort, located fairly close to the airport.
💡 Tip: Before you rush to book a package with the first travel agency you stumble across, definitely have a look at the wide selection of resorts on Booking.com, where you can easily compare prices and reviews for the exact same hotels and dates, which always comes in handy.
💡 Tip for independent travellers: If you’re planning to put your holiday together yourself and you’re just looking for a flight, look for the cheapest connection to Hurghada airport from London or Manchester — there are plenty of direct and connecting routes throughout the season.
13 Things to See and Do in Hurghada
Unlike some sleepier resorts, in Hurghada there really are loads of ways to spend your time outside the safety of the hotel resort. Whether you’re drawn to history, a bit of adrenaline, or just slowly soaking up the local atmosphere with a drink in hand, there’s something here for almost everyone. Let’s take a look at some specific tips.
1. Hurghada Marina
The modern yacht harbour, known as Hurghada Marina, is something of a showcase for the whole resort. Picture a beautifully paved promenade, lined on one side with moored luxury boats and on the other with dozens of stylish restaurants, bars, and little cafés. Everything here is clean, well-kept, and — by ordinary Egyptian standards — almost unexpectedly calm.
During the day it tends to be quite hot and empty, but the real magic arrives at sunset. In the evening the promenade lights up beautifully and becomes the main hub of social life. It’s an absolutely ideal spot for an early evening stroll, a sit-down with a shisha, or a relaxed dinner overlooking the gently bobbing boats.
Compared to the rest of the city, the atmosphere here is also much more relaxed and safe. The local vendors are used to tourists and are nowhere near as pushy as at the classic street bazaars. If you want to enjoy a pleasant evening outside the resort without any stress, the Marina is probably the best possible choice in the whole city.
2. The Old Town of El Dahar and the Bazaar
If you want to escape the polished tourist bubble for a while and see the real, unvarnished face of Egypt, you have to head to the old district of El Dahar. Here, narrow alleys, dusty roads, and above all a huge local bazaar await you, where they sell absolutely everything from fresh fruit and vegetables through fragrant spices to brass lamps and traditional clothing.
But be prepared — it’s quite an assault on all the senses 😅 The ever-present touts are very active here and will try to lure you into their shops, which is probably the most common thing tourists complain about. All you have to do is keep a cool head, say a firm “no, thank you” with a smile, and just keep walking. If you’re not interested in buying, trust me, it’s best not to make unnecessarily long eye contact with them at all.
But once you do spot something, you have to haggle — it’s literally a national sport here. The first price is often absurdly inflated, easily three times the real one.
💡 Tip: Aim to knock it down to at least 50 to 70% of the original amount. The very best tactic is the so-called “put it down and walk away”. When you can’t agree on a reasonable price, simply hand the item back and walk away slowly. In most cases the vendor will immediately run after you with a much better offer. You’ll also experience the best atmosphere here in the early evening, between five and nine o’clock.
3. Water Parks for Kids
Hurghada is, without the slightest exaggeration, an absolute paradise of water fun, and you’ll find the very largest and best-equipped water parks in all of Egypt here, which makes it a dream destination for all children. The best-known giant is Makadi Water World, which lies a little south of the city and offers dozens of crazy slides, giant flumes, and calm lazy rivers where you can rest for a while.
Another huge complex is Jungle Aqua Park, located fairly close to the airport. It’s designed as a big tropical village, and you’ll even find pools with an artificial wave machine here. Similarly popular is the Aqua Park at the Titanic resort, which reliably delights mainly the fans of adrenaline and steep plunges into the water.
A huge advantage is that many big hotels have their own sprawling water parks right within their grounds. So if you’re travelling with small children, it definitely makes sense to choose your accommodation primarily based on the quality of the pools, because entry to other people’s water parks can get quite unpleasantly expensive when you buy separate tickets for the whole family.
4. Grand Aquarium Hurghada
When it happens to be really windy, or you want to take a break from the blazing sun for a bit, a visit to the Grand Aquarium is an absolutely ideal activity. It’s an enormous complex that is home to more than a thousand different marine creatures. It’s a great choice for non-swimmers and families with really small children who want to see the beauty of the Red Sea, so to speak, nice and dry and at ease.
The absolute biggest draw of the whole complex is the amazing glass shark tunnel. Picture walking through it while large sharks, giant rays, and shoals of brightly coloured little fish glide majestically right above your head. It’s a fairly fascinating sight that will definitely keep you glued for a good while.
The whole tour takes you about two hours at a relaxed pace. The aquarium may not quite compete with the most modern facilities in the world, but as a way to liven up your holiday it’s a really nice stop. It pays to buy tickets online in advance, so you avoid any queues at the ticket desks.
Right by the coast not far from the modern marina stands a building you simply can’t leave out of your photos. The enormous Al Mina Mosque, with its dazzling white walls, big domes, and two slender minarets, is without doubt the most photogenic building in the whole city. Especially in the early evening, when it’s beautifully lit and the call to prayer rings out, the place has an incredibly captivating and romantic atmosphere.
It’s an actively used place of worship, so if you want to look inside at the beautifully decorated interiors too, you must strictly observe the dress code. Men must wear long trousers and women must cover their shoulders, legs, and hair. You can borrow appropriate clothing at the entrance, but it’s much better to turn up already prepared.
Even if you decide not to go inside at all, the mosque is worth a short stop just for the photos from outside. The contrast of the pure white building against the deep blue sky is simply gorgeous. It tends to be quiet here and you’ll get at least a fleeting touch of genuine local culture.
6. The Sindbad Submarine
This is an experience you won’t find just anywhere in the world. Moored in Hurghada is the Sindbad submarine, one of the few genuine recreational submarines operating in tourist resorts. It’s not a glass-bottomed boat, but a real underwater vessel that descends with you to a depth of around twenty-five metres below the surface.
From a comfortable seat, through large round portholes, you can calmly observe the stunning world of coral reefs, shoals of colourful fish, and with a bit of luck even sea turtles. It’s an absolutely brilliant choice for grandparents or people who are afraid to dive but don’t want to miss out on the underwater beauty Egypt is so famous for.
The whole trip, including the hotel transfer and a short boat ride to the submarine itself, usually takes around three hours, and you’ll spend roughly fifty minutes in the submarine underwater. The price ranges around 40 to 50 € (~1,000 to 1,250 CZK) and inside there’s surprisingly plenty of room and air conditioning, so you needn’t fear any unpleasant claustrophobia.
7. The Paradise Island of Giftun (Orange Bay and Mahmya)
If you want to bring back photos from Egypt that look like they’re from the Caribbean, you have to head out on a boat trip to Giftun Island. It’s a protected national park near the coast that hides the very most beautiful beaches in the whole area. The sand here is incredibly white and the shallows glow the most vivid turquoise.
The trips are divided depending on which specific beach on the island you’re heading to. The most popular and slightly cheaper option is the stretch called Orange Bay (trip prices start at around 25 USD / ~23 €). It’s beautiful here, shallow, and great for kids, but hand on heart, around midday it gets absolutely insanely overcrowded. The pricier and more exclusive choice is Mahmya beach (costing 50 USD and up / ~46 €), which is calmer and offers a somewhat more eco-friendly and relaxed approach to nature.
💡 Tip: Many tourists think these beaches are great for snorkelling, but that’s a big misconception. Right by Orange Bay or Mahmya beach there’s just sand and no coral at all. The snorkelling is done exclusively at stops out on the open sea during the boat ride to the island. If you want at least a bit of peace on the beach, go strictly on a weekday and look for trips that leave as early in the morning as possible (ideally with hotel pickup before eight o’clock).
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to Stay in Hurghada
5 accommodations — hotels, resorts and other lodging options
The underwater world of the Red Sea is among the best in the world, but at Hurghada you need to know one fairly fundamental rule that no one will tell you in the brochure. Due to decades of massive development and the building of artificial beaches, the house reef right by most hotels is very weak and damaged. If you expect to put on a mask by the loungers and see crowds of fish, you’ll probably be very disappointed at the central beaches.
For the real colours and living coral, you absolutely have to travel by boat. But you only need to head out a little way from the shore and the sea literally lights up before you like an artist’s palette. For beginners, the shallow reefs near the islands are nice, while experienced divers usually head out to the open sea, for example to the renowned Careless Reef site north of Giftun Island.
💡 Tip: If you want to avoid paying for boat trips and long for nice snorkelling for free straight from the beach, choose a hotel in Makadi Bay or Sahl Hasheesh. There the coral still holds up fairly nicely. For divers, Hurghada has excellent certified centres such as Aquarius Diving Club or Scuba Hurghada, where experienced instructors will look after you. Always take water shoes into water where there’s a risk of contact with the bottom, because of sea urchins and venomous scorpionfish. And remember, you must never touch so-called fire coral — it causes a very nasty rash.
9. Swimming with Dolphins at Dolphin House
An encounter with dolphins in the wild is an experience that will give you goosebumps long after you get home. From Hurghada there are regular boat trips on a full-day excursion to the shallow lagoon of Shaab El Erg, fittingly nicknamed Dolphin House. In this area, huge pods of wild dolphins commonly hang out, and they’re already fairly used to the presence of boats and often come closer of their own accord out of sheer curiosity 😉
You’ll get a mask and fins, and on the guide’s signal you jump into the open sea. If you’re lucky, these incredibly intelligent animals will swim just a few metres from you, which is an absolute dream. On top of all that, the trip usually also includes two or three stops at really lovely coral reefs, so you’ll enjoy snorkelling to the max.
It’s hugely important to bear in mind, though, that they’re still wild animals and strict rules apply. Under no circumstances may you touch them, you mustn’t chase them anywhere, and you must let them set the pace and closeness themselves. Reputable trip operators thankfully adhere very strictly to this rule, and that’s exactly how it should be.
10. Desert Safari
When you get a little tired of the sea for a while, all you have to do is turn your back to the water and head off to explore that endless parched landscape just behind the city. The desert safari is probably the most popular land excursion of all, and you can choose whether to saddle up a noisy quad bike, hop into an off-road buggy, or get a ride deep among the sand dunes in a big jeep.
Most of these half-day or early-evening trips include a stop in a traditional Bedouin village, where you’ll taste their strong tea, ride a camel, and watch how bread is baked right in the sand. Prices tend to be very reasonable, starting at around 18 to 35 € (~450 to 875 CZK) per person depending on the specific programme you choose.
The most magical moment of all, though, is when the sun sinks below the horizon. In the desert there’s no light pollution from hotels, so an incredibly clear starry sky lights up above you. Stargazing through a powerful telescope is often part of the programme too. Definitely take a scarf for your mouth and nose, though, because you’ll swallow more than enough dust.
11. A Full-Day Trip to Luxor
This is exactly why so many history lovers head to Hurghada in particular. The city lies at such a distance that you can manage a one-day round trip to ancient Thebes, today’s Luxor. But be prepared for the fact that it’s a really demanding and packed day — this simply has to be worth those sleepless hours on the bus. You usually set off from the hotel while it’s still pitch dark, and the journey takes roughly four hours one way.
The reward for getting up early, though, is phenomenal. With your own eyes you’ll see the colossal pillared halls of Karnak Temple, walk through the chilling Valley of the Kings where the ancient pharaohs rest, and admire the terraced temple of Queen Hatshepsut set right into the rock face. It’s the absolute essence of ancient Egypt nicely in one place.
During summer it’s truly brutally hot in Luxor and the sun bakes like an oven in those enclosed valleys, so it’s probably better to plan this trip for the spring or autumn months. If you don’t fancy spending eight hours on a bus in a single day, you can also find slightly calmer two-day versions with an overnight stay on site.
12. Cairo and the Pyramids
Seeing the last surviving wonder of the ancient world with your own eyes is probably the dream of just about every traveller. From Hurghada you can get to Cairo to the pyramids in Giza, but again, it’s not exactly a restful trip where you’ll nod off. The bus journey takes a brutal six hours there and six back, which means leaving the hotel well after midnight and returning around dinnertime.
A much more comfortable, though of course noticeably pricier, option is a flying excursion to Cairo. The domestic flight from Hurghada airport takes just about an hour and a quarter, so you save loads of precious time and energy. Besides the majestic pyramids and the mysterious Sphinx, you’ll also manage to visit the Grand Egyptian Museum and see the famous treasure of the pharaoh Tutankhamun.
If you’re travelling with children, think really hard before choosing the bus option — it tends to be excessively long and tiring for them. Cairo is also a gigantic and unbelievably chaotic city, so by flying you’ll at least make that culture shock a little more bearable.
13. A Trip to El Gouna
About twenty-five kilometres north of Hurghada lies a little town you probably wouldn’t quite expect in Egypt. El Gouna boasts the nickname “the Egyptian Venice”, because it’s an absolutely luxurious and elegant resort woven through with a network of artificial water canals and turquoise lagoons. Even if you’re staying elsewhere, it’s definitely worth taking a relaxed half-day trip here.
You can wander the beautifully maintained marina, admire millionaires’ yachts, or just sit in one of the stylish little cafés by the water and soak up the sun. The whole resort is very clean and has that premium, slightly snobbish atmosphere that sharply contrasts with the dust and noise of the rest of Egypt.
💡 Tip: The very best thing about El Gouna, though, is what’s missing here. There are no pushy touts or shouting vendors. It’s absolutely peaceful and one hundred percent safe, even at two in the morning while walking the night-time alleys. If you absolutely can’t stand haggling and the pressure of street vendors, El Gouna will work for you like the perfect balm for the soul.
Where to Eat in Hurghada
Dining in Egypt mostly works by relying on the all-inclusive buffet right in your hotel, but the quality of this food tends to be very variable. While in the more luxurious resorts you’ll find themed evenings and a wide selection, in the cheaper ones the food gets quite repetitive and tends to be a bit bland. For vegetarians, though, Egyptian cuisine is a hugely pleasant surprise, I can promise you that. You absolutely must try koshari, an utterly brilliant and filling national dish made of a mix of rice, pasta, lentils, chickpeas, fried onions, and a spicy tomato sauce.
Besides that, prepare for perfect falafel, creamy hummus, wonderfully mashed aubergine baba ganoush, and a great fava bean mash called ful medames. There’s also plenty of fresh and grilled vegetables everywhere, plus classic pizza or pasta. For meat and seafood lovers, the local restaurants prepare fresh fish, prawns, and various lamb kebab specialities, so even without the vegetarian treats you can eat very richly and tastily here 🙂
If you want to head out for a meal outside the hotel, the best and safest choice is the aforementioned Hurghada Marina. There are nice places here such as The Greek or the popular restaurant Waves, where they cook excellently, have great vegetarian options, and the setting is very European.
💡 Tip: Be very careful about what you drink, though. The so-called pharaoh’s revenge can ruin your whole holiday. Drink strictly only bottled water, and please do so even when brushing your teeth. In restaurants outside your resort, it’s best not to put ice in your drinks, because it’s often made from ordinary tap water, which our European stomachs simply aren’t used to.
Where to Go Next from Hurghada
If you’re keen to explore the Red Sea coast a little more, definitely check out our other guides. If you’re still hesitating about whether the busy north is the right choice for you, read our article Hurghada or Marsa Alam?, where we compare both resorts in detail and very honestly. For those of you who mainly long for perfect snorkelling and don’t mind a somewhat calmer atmosphere, we’ve prepared detailed tips in the article Marsa Alam: 13 Tips.
More interested in history and grand ancient buildings? Take a look at our overview What to See in Egypt, where you’ll find the most beautiful monuments from the pyramids to the temples in the south of the country. For a general overview of which bay in Egypt to head to, our big guide Where to Go on Holiday in Egypt: 20 Tips comes in handy. And so you don’t forget anything important while packing your suitcase, definitely go through our practical list What to Pack for a Holiday in Egypt before you fly.
Search with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
🔗 These are affiliate links — they don't change your price and help us create content. · All experiences →
Frequently Asked Questions
Who is Hurghada suitable for?
It’s an absolutely ideal choice for families with children, first-time visitors to Egypt, and people who want a great selection of excursions and entertainment. The beaches here are rather shallow and sandy, huge water parks operate here, and the resort comes alive well into the night. On the other hand, those seeking absolute tranquility and the best corals right off the beach should head south instead.
How far is Hurghada from Prague?
Direct flight from Prague airport takes approximately four and a quarter hours. A great advantage is that by far the most charter flights head here from Czechia, and during summer season even from airports in Brno or Ostrava, so the journey is very comfortable.
When is the best time to go to Hurghada?
“`html
The most pleasant conditions are in spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November), when it’s beautifully warm but not extremely hot. In summer, temperatures climb towards forty degrees. In winter it’s usually sunny, but feels quite cold due to strong winds.
“`
Can you snorkel well right from the beach in Hurghada?
Mostly unfortunately not. The house reefs near central hotels are often destroyed or have given way to artificial sandy beaches. A beautiful exception is the protected Makadi Bay. For truly colorful corals and rich marine life, you otherwise have to take boat trips here.
Do I need water shoes?
It depends on the hotel. If you have a fine sandy beach, you don’t need shoes. However, in areas with dead coral substrate near the shore or when snorkeling, we definitely recommend them – they’ll protect you from accidentally stepping on a sea urchin or poisonous stonefish.
Are there sharks in Hurghada?
“`html
In the Red Sea, sharks naturally live, as it’s their natural habitat. However, in the Hurghada area, incidents almost never occur and the beaches at hotels are usually shallow and safe. During normal swimming and snorkeling, you don’t need to be afraid of them.
“`
How much to tip in Egypt?
The so-called baksheesh is an unwritten rule here, because the staff’s wages are very low. You leave the housekeeper roughly 20 EGP (~€0.30) per day on the bed, and similar amounts are given to porters or waiters. With a pre-arranged taxi at a fixed price, however, an extra tip is no longer expected.
Is Hurghada Boring?
It really depends on what you expect from your holiday and which hotel you’re staying in. Compared to smaller resorts, Hurghada offers the beautiful Marina promenade, the old bazaar, desert safaris and plenty of water fun, so you definitely won’t be bored if you venture outside the resort gates for a while.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DRNorthern Corsica around Bastia and the Cap Corse peninsula comes with 11 ideas for a trip, from the old port and Terra Nova citadel in Bastia to the Cap Corse loop road and the village of Nonza with its black beach, plus the Patrimonio wine region. May, June and September are the best months to visit — better to avoid August, when the crowds and traffic jams take over. A car is an absolute must here, and the ferry from Nice to Bastia takes 6 to 7 hours, with a return ticket for two people plus car costing 250 to 1000 euros. Plan on 2 to 3 nights in Bastia, while the Cap Corse loop itself takes 3 to 4 hours to drive, ideally spread over a full day.
If you’re after a destination where you can scramble around ancient fortresses in the morning and swim in picture-perfect coves in the afternoon, Bastia, Corsica and the wild north of the island will absolutely win you over. The moment you step off the ferry and take your first deep breath, you’ll catch the unmistakable scent of wild thyme, rosemary and sun-baked earth. Locals call this wild vegetation maquis, and the story goes that Napoleon Bonaparte could have recognised his home island blindfolded, purely by this unique aroma.
Don’t expect a polished French Riviera with flawless promenades, though — Corsica is wilder, rougher and prouder than that. The roads here twist high above sheer drops, and the sea is often the kind of colour you’d usually associate with brochures of the distant Caribbean. In this article we’ll explore the port city of Bastia and the rugged Cap Corse peninsula, which on the map looks like a raised finger pointing towards Genoa in Italy. I’ll tell you which places not to miss, where to base yourself, and what to watch out for when planning your trip.
TL;DR
You’ll need a car: Public transport on the island is very unreliable, so a car is absolutely essential for exploring the north.
Avoid August: In August the island is bursting at the seams, prices skyrocket and the roads turn into car parks.
Bastia’s Old Port: The most charming part of the city, with tall colourful houses and plenty of great restaurants.
The Cap Corse loop: A breathtaking road trip along narrow cliffside roads — I recommend driving anti-clockwise.
The village of Nonza: A dramatic cliffside village with an iconic black beach created from a nearby quarry.
The Patrimonio wine region: A paradise for wine lovers with the finest Corsican varieties.
The basic rule for planning your trip couldn’t be clearer: skip August altogether if you can. It’s the month when the French and Italians descend on the island en masse, with two to three times more people than in July. The roads around Cap Corse turn into impassable traffic jams, accommodation prices climb to absurd heights, and the best little coves are hopelessly packed. For a relaxed holiday full of discovery, it really isn’t the best time.
The ideal months to visit are without a doubt May, June and September. In autumn the sea is still beautifully warm from the summer, and the narrow mountain roads are far easier to breathe on and navigate safely. The spring months, on the other hand, bring nature in full bloom, and the island is intoxicating with the scent of wild maquis herbs. Spring temperatures hover around a pleasant 20 to 25 degrees, which is absolutely perfect for hiking and wandering through the towns, even if the sea may still feel a touch refreshing.
As for getting there, without a car you’re completely stuck in Corsica, because public transport here is very unreliable and often non-existent. From the UK, the easiest option is to fly into Bastia–Poretta Airport — there are seasonal direct flights to Bastia, Corsica from London and other UK airports, and you can pick up a hire car right at the airport. Alternatively, many travellers reach the island with their own car via one of the big ferries operated by companies like Corsica Ferries from the French mainland. Ticket prices vary a lot depending on the season and how far in advance you book. Expect a return ticket for two people with a car to cost anywhere between €250 and €1,000. The quickest crossing runs from Nice straight to Bastia and takes roughly 6 to 7 hours. From Toulon, allow 8 to 10 hours, and from Marseille the journey stretches to a long 11 to 14 hours.
Photo: SlimMars 13 / Pexels
Where to stay in Bastia and the surrounding area
💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We love searching for places to stay on Booking.com, which tends to have the best cancellation policies. For tickets, tours and activities, it’s worth comparing and booking through GetYourGuide.
Bastia is the perfect base for exploring the north, and I’d recommend spending at least two or three nights here. The city isn’t huge, but it has a wonderful, slightly faded atmosphere that you’ll soak up best early in the morning or late in the evening, once the crowds from the cruise ships have left. The best area to stay is around the old port or close to the sprawling Place Saint-Nicolas, from where all the sights are just a few steps away. Parking in the historic centre is quite a headache, so it’s handy to use the huge underground car park right beneath the square, where you’ll pay around €20 per day.
For a truly unforgettable stay, take a look at the Hôtel Des Gouverneurs, set right inside the historic Terra Nova citadel. It offers stunning sea views, an indoor pool and elegant rooms that make you feel like you’ve stepped into a fairy tale. In season, prices here start at around €180 per night. If you’re after something more budget-friendly right in the centre, the very popular Hôtel Port Toga is a great shout. It has a fantastic location a stone’s throw from the ferry terminal, modern facilities and a lovely rooftop terrace where you can enjoy an evening drink, all for around €110 per night.
If you’d rather escape the busy city for some real peace and quiet, the Cap Corse peninsula offers some charming places to stay in tiny fishing villages. A gorgeous choice is the Hôtel Castel Brando in the village of Erbalunga, set in a 19th-century noble residence with a beautiful shady garden and a pool. I’d strongly recommend booking your Corsica accommodation well in advance through Booking, because the best small hotels and guesthouses are usually hopelessly sold out for the main summer season as early as the start of spring.
Photo: SlimMars 13 / Pexels
11 things to do in Bastia and Cap Corse
Compared with other Corsican towns, Bastia is far more authentic, a little more weathered and rougher around the edges. The narrow lanes here smell of the sea, freshly baked bread and local cheeses. The Cap Corse peninsula, meanwhile, is like Corsica in miniature, packing mountains, cliffs, watchtowers and hidden beaches into a small space. Let’s take a look at the places that definitely shouldn’t be missing from your itinerary. You can also conveniently book activities and boat trips in advance through GetYourGuide.
Photo: Chabe01 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
1. Place Saint-Nicolas and a morning coffee
Your tour of the city should begin at the enormous Place Saint-Nicolas, which forms the true heart of Bastia. At nearly 300 metres long, this square is one of the largest in all of France, lined along its entire length with towering palms and centuries-old plane trees. In the hot summer months these provide much-needed shade and create the perfect promenade. It’s exactly the kind of place where locals come to read the paper, chat with neighbours and watch the huge yellow Corsica Ferries vessels that arrive at the nearby port every so often.
Settle into one of the many pleasant café terraces, order a strong morning espresso and a fresh, crisp croissant. The atmosphere here is wonderfully lazy and nobody’s in any hurry. On the square you’ll also find a majestic statue of Napoleon Bonaparte, depicted in a Roman toga. Locals tend to have rather lukewarm feelings about him, though, as his home town of Ajaccio lies on the opposite side of the island and there’s a long-standing historical rivalry between the two.
💡 Tip: In the afternoon, I’d recommend swapping the coffee for a great local beer, Pietra, brewed from a blend of malt and chestnut flour. It has a completely distinctive, slightly sweet and full-bodied flavour. Every Sunday morning the square also hosts a popular flea market full of antiques and local treats.
Photo: Gzen92 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
2. The Old Port (Vieux Port)
From the big square it’s just a few steps to the old port, which is without doubt the most photogenic part of the whole city. The horseshoe-shaped bay is full of small wooden fishing boats and more modern yachts, gently bobbing on the waves to create the perfect Mediterranean backdrop. The port is hemmed in on all sides by incredibly tall, slightly crumbling houses with pastel-coloured shutters, exuding that genuine, unspoilt Corsican atmosphere.
It’s right here on the waterfront that you’ll find the best restaurants and little traditional cafés, from which you can watch the bustle by the water. Try grabbing lunch here and sampling the excellent local vegetarian specialities. The delicious pasta filled with fresh Corsican brocciu cheese is an absolute must, as is the traditional hearty chestnut-flour polenta, which is guaranteed to fuel you up for more exploring. In the evening the whole port lights up beautifully with the yellow glow of the lamps and becomes the main hub of the nightlife, with the bars buzzing well into the small hours.
💡 Tip: The waterfront gets very busy around lunchtime. Try slipping into the narrow lanes just behind the first row of houses, where you’ll find smaller family bistros cooking for the locals at considerably friendlier prices.
3. The Church of St John the Baptist
As you stand in the old port and look around, your gaze will inevitably be drawn to the monumental Church of St John the Baptist (Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste). Its two strikingly tall bell towers form the city’s most iconic landmark and appear on just about every postcard you can take home from Bastia. It’s the largest church on the whole of Corsica, and its majestic late-16th-century neoclassical façade looks truly grand and imposing when viewed from the sea.
I’d definitely recommend popping inside too, as the interior is richly decorated in an opulent Baroque style, with beautiful marble altars, rare frescoes and a huge organ. The church itself is tucked into the maze of narrow lanes in the old working-class quarter of Terra Vecchia. In this part of the city you can simply wander without a map, discovering hidden little squares and soaking up the laid-back atmosphere of the old town. More often than not, freshly washed laundry will be hanging overhead, strung between the windows, which only adds to the authenticity of the place.
💡 Tip: For the best photos of the church and the old port, I’d recommend heading out for a stroll just before sunset, when the whole bay takes on an incredibly golden, warm glow.
4. The Terra Nova citadel and views over the city
High above the old port stands the proud historic Terra Nova citadel, built by the Genoese rulers in the 14th and 15th centuries as their seat of power. The best way up is a pleasant walk through the terraced Romieu gardens, full of greenery, flowering shrubs and very welcome shade. The climb uphill can be a bit of a slog on a hot summer’s day, but those fantastic panoramic views over the entire city and the sweeping bay are well worth the effort.
Within the mighty stone walls hides a self-contained little town of narrow cobbled lanes and picturesque pastel houses, once home exclusively to the Genoese elite. You’ll also find the restored Governor’s Palace, which today houses an interesting museum charting the rich history of Bastia and the whole island. The atmosphere in the citadel is noticeably calmer and more refined than down in the noisy port, making it the perfect spot for a romantic early-evening stroll, once the day-trippers have left the streets.
💡 Tip: The winding lanes of the citadel hide several excellent little bistros with cosy outdoor seating, where they bake absolutely fantastic vegetarian pizza and serve it with excellent local wine from the nearby Cap Corse vineyards.
5. A road trip around the Cap Corse peninsula
Once you’ve explored every nook and cranny of Bastia, it’s time to head straight north and drive the legendary Cap Corse peninsula. This roughly thirty-kilometre-long and fifteen-kilometre-wide spit of land offers some of the most beautiful coastal scenery in all of Europe. The narrow D80 road twists wildly high above the sea, cutting straight into the steep rock, and around absolutely every bend a new, breathtaking view of the crashing waves and old watchtowers awaits.
The key piece of advice for this road trip is clear, so do remember it: always drive anti-clockwise. That means setting off from Bastia up the east coast heading north, and returning down the west coast back south. This way you’ll stay in the lane nearer the sea the whole time, guaranteeing the best possible views and far easier stops at the clifftop viewpoints. The roads here are genuinely extremely narrow, passing oncoming buses takes nerves of steel, and you’ll routinely come across free-roaming cows or goats, so definitely don’t rush.
💡 Tip: Set aside at least a full day for the whole loop. The drive itself takes around 3 to 4 hours of actual driving time, but you’ll want to stop constantly to take photos and soak up the picturesque villages.
The first major stop on the east coast of the peninsula should be the charming fishing village of Erbalunga, which lies just ten kilometres north of Bastia. The entire historic part of the village is strictly closed to car traffic, so you’ll have to leave your car in the paid car park by the main road and continue on foot. The narrow lanes are paved with rough stone and lined with old stone houses topped with slate roofs, which in many places look as if they’re literally growing straight out of the waves.
On a small rocky outcrop at the very end of the village stand the photogenic ruins of an old 16th-century Genoese watchtower, against which the sea waves break dramatically. You’ll see dozens of similar towers along Corsica’s rugged coastline — they once served as an ingenious early-warning system against devastating pirate raids. Erbalunga has a wonderfully calm and inspiring atmosphere, and it’s no surprise that in the past it drew a whole host of French and Corsican painters in search of inspiration.
💡 Tip: On the small shady square right by the harbour you’ll find several great family-run restaurants, where you can enjoy a wonderful chestnut-flour dessert with a perfect view of the sea and the bobbing boats.
Photo: Sylvain Barrier / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
7. The Patrimonio wine region
As you leave the Cap Corse peninsula along its steep western side, you’ll reach the famous, sun-drenched Patrimonio wine region. Green vineyards roll over gentle hills here, stretching from the inland down to the coast itself and creating an absolutely gorgeous colour contrast with the deep blue of the nearby Gulf of Saint-Florent. It was the very first region on all of Corsica to be awarded the prestigious AOC designation of origin, back in 1968 — a clear testament to the exceptional quality and tradition of the wines here.
I’d definitely recommend stopping off, even briefly, at one of the dozens of local family wineries for a guided tasting. Above all, try the wines from the traditional Corsican Nielluccio grape, which produces very full-bodied reds and excellent, refreshing rosés. If you prefer white varieties, the fresh and pleasantly mineral Vermentino is sure to win you over. Most of the local winemakers are very friendly and will proudly show you their old cellars and tell you about the quirks of the local soil.
💡 Tip: Buying wine directly from the producers in Patrimonio is often significantly cheaper than at supermarkets or wine shops in Bastia. Plus, you’ll be supporting local farmers directly and taking home the best possible souvenir.
Photo: Marcxosm / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0
8. The dramatic village of Nonza and its black beach
On the steep west coast of Cap Corse you’ll find a place you’ll remember forever — the incredibly dramatic village of Nonza. It’s literally clinging to a steep rocky cliff high above the sea, and from a distance it looks utterly impregnable. The village’s landmark is the well-preserved old Tour Paoline, an 18th-century tower reached by a short climb from the church, from where an absolutely fantastic, completely unobstructed view opens up over the entire west coast.
Far below the village’s cliffs lies an enormous, wide beach of dark grey to black sand, creating a stunning visual contrast with the turquoise sea. Surprisingly, though, the colour of the sand isn’t volcanic in origin. It comes from an old asbestos quarry that once operated a little further north and was finally closed in 1965. Today the whole area is carefully monitored by the authorities and swimming here is perfectly safe. The beach is often empty, because the only way down is via very long, steep steps straight from the village.
💡 Tip: The climb back from the beach up to the village is hard work in the afternoon sun. Don’t forget to bring sturdy footwear and plenty of drinking water, as there’s no shade or refreshments at all on the beach.
9. The Customs Officers’ Path (Sentier des Douaniers)
At the very northern tip of the peninsula, near the little port town of Macinaggio, begins the famous Customs Officers’ Path, the Sentier des Douaniers in French. This popular hiking trail follows the island’s northernmost coast exactly and takes you to wild spots you’d have absolutely no chance of reaching by car. The path is beautifully lined with fragrant maquis shrubs and rare protected plants, and offers incredible views of hidden turquoise coves and small islets.
The whole route from Macinaggio to the picturesque fishing village of Centuri takes around 8 hours of solid walking, but you can of course just walk a shorter, less demanding stretch and then retrace your steps. The trail isn’t extremely physically demanding, but it runs mostly over rocky, uneven terrain, so good sturdy shoes are an absolute must for safe footing. Don’t forget to bring plenty of drinking water and a packed lunch for the day, as you won’t come across a single shop along the way.
💡 Tip: If you set off on the trail in the hot summer months, start really early, right at sunrise. There’s practically no shade on the path, and the midday sun on the open coast is utterly merciless and dangerous.
Photo: X071334 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
10. The Moulin Mattei windmill viewpoint
As you cross from the northern tip from the eastern side to the western one, you’ll pass through the Col de la Serra mountain pass, where at 365 metres above sea level you’ll find the beautifully restored white Moulin Mattei windmill. From the small parking area by the main road, it’s about a ten-minute easy walk uphill to the windmill itself. Along the way you’ll very likely be accompanied by the curious glances of free-roaming Corsican cows, which often wander here in search of food.
From the top by the windmill you get one of the very best panoramic views of the whole of Cap Corse. You can see both sides of the peninsula at once, from the dramatic, steep western cliffs plunging into the sea to the slightly gentler east coast. On a very clear day you can even make out the outlines of mainland Italy and the neighbouring island of Capraia on the distant horizon. It’s an absolutely ideal spot for a short rest stop.
💡 Tip: At the top by the windmill there’s almost always a very strong wind, regardless of the weather down by the sea. Be sure to pack a light jacket or jumper so you don’t get cold up here.
Photo: jeffwarder / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
11. The hidden Tamarone beach
If, after a full day of travelling, you’re looking for the perfect spot to relax by the water, head to the beautiful and slightly hidden Tamarone beach. It lies a little north of Macinaggio, and you can reach it either on foot along the opening section of the Customs Officers’ Path mentioned above, or by car along a fairly dusty, bumpy unpaved track. It’s precisely thanks to this slightly trickier access that you’ll never find the same unpleasant crush of people here as on the famous beaches in the south of the island around Porto-Vecchio.
Unlike most of the pebble beaches in the north, Tamarone beach has fine, light sand, and the water here is beautifully shallow and crystal clear. That makes it an absolutely ideal and safe spot for families with younger children, or for anyone who just wants to laze about in the shallows. In the peak summer season there’s also a small wooden beach bar where you can buy chilled drinks, coffee and simple vegetarian snacks like salads. The bay is very well sheltered from the strong wind, so the sea surface here is usually lovely and calm on most days, perfect for swimming.
Where to go next from Bastia
Once you’ve explored the north, Corsica offers countless more options for where to head next. If you’re craving mountains and wilder scenery, drive to the inland town of Corte, surrounded by high peaks and deep chestnut forests. For more detailed planning of your whole trip, be sure to read our big Corsica guide, where you’ll find plenty more useful tips.
If you decide to continue down the west coast heading south, you’ll come across the stunning red rocks of the Calanques de Piana, and later reach the island’s capital. Take a look at our article on what to see in Ajaccio, the birthplace of Napoleon himself, where the atmosphere is noticeably more relaxed, with an almost quintessentially French café culture.
Search with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
✓ DiscoverCars comparison✓ free cancellation on most bookings✓ no hidden fees
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to drive around Cap Corse?
The drive itself around the Cap Corse circuit takes roughly 3 to 4 hours of pure driving time. However, I recommend setting aside a full day for the trip, so you have plenty of time for stops in the villages, taking photos at the old Genoese towers, short hikes to viewpoints, and a pleasant lunch somewhere by the sea overlooking the cliffs.
Is driving in Corsica dangerous?
Driving requires full concentration and a great deal of patience, but it’s not outright dangerous if you drive carefully and don’t rush. Roads are often very narrow and full of sharp bends, guardrails are frequently missing, and you’ll commonly encounter freely grazing cows, goats, or wild boars on the road. Definitely avoid driving at night.
What’s the typical food in the north?
Corsican cuisine is very hearty and rustic. Be sure to taste everything containing the local fresh cheese brocciu, whether it’s stuffed pasta, savory pies, or desserts. Also very popular are filling dishes made from chestnut flour, which makes excellent polenta, and for drinks try the refreshing chestnut beer Pietra.
Are there sandy beaches on Cap Corse?
Most beaches on the peninsula are rather pebbly or rocky, but this guarantees beautifully clean and crystal-clear water ideal for snorkeling. You’ll find a beautiful sandy beach with shallow water in the north at Tamarone Bay, or a bit further along the eastern coast near the quiet village of Pietracorbara.
Can Kids Handle the Customs Officers’ Path?
Yes, shorter sections of the Customs Officers’ Path are relatively easy and can be easily managed even by active families with older children. The initial route from Macinaggio to Tamarone beach takes only about 45 minutes and follows more even terrain. However, definitely don’t come here with a stroller – the path is very rocky and dusty.
How is parking in Bastia?
Parking directly in the historic center and narrow streets is quite a challenge and there are very few spots for non-residents. The best option is to use the huge underground car park beneath Place Saint-Nicolas square, which is paid (around 20 euros per day), but you’re guaranteed to park safely right in the heart of the action.
Is the black beach in Nonza safe for swimming?
Yes, swimming at the black beach is completely safe. Although the sand comes from a nearby asbestos quarry, which was permanently closed in 1965, authorities regularly and very strictly test the area. The quality of both the water and the sand itself has long met all the strictest health and environmental standards.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DRTrogir is a compact, UNESCO-listed old town on a tiny island, just five kilometres from Split airport — perfect for the first or last day of a trip. Highlights include St Lawrence’s Cathedral with Radovan’s portal, the climb up the 47-metre bell tower, and the Venetian fortress of Kamerlengo; two to three hours is enough to see the sights. For a swim, head to the neighbouring island of Čiovo and Okrug Gornji beach, from where you can take a boat trip to the Blue Lagoon off Drvenik Veli. May, June and September are the best months to visit, with fewer crowds and cheaper accommodation. Bus number 37 runs from the airport into the centre, while cars have to park on the mainland side before the bridge.
If you’re looking for the perfect Croatian town that has held onto its authentic historic character, Trogir in Croatia will win you over in an instant. This remarkably compact centre sits on a tiny islet linked by bridges to both the mainland and a neighbouring island, and it’s rightly listed in its entirety as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Its huge strategic advantage is the fact that it lies just five kilometres from Split International Airport. That makes it an absolutely ideal stop for your first day after landing, or for that very last holiday afternoon before heading home.
I’ve put together a detailed guide with 12 specific tips on sights and trips to help you get the most out of your visit. I’ll also walk you through the logistics — where best to park and how to cleverly dodge the biggest crowds of day-trippers who pour in from far and wide.
TL;DR
Transport and parking: From the airport or from Split you can easily get here on local bus number 37. If you’re driving, park only on the mainland side before the bridge — cars aren’t allowed into the historic core.
Main sights: Don’t miss the magnificent Cathedral of St Lawrence with its famous Radovan Portal, and the Venetian Kamerlengo fortress at the end of the promenade.
When to come: The town has its best atmosphere early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the big organised tours from Split leave and the lanes empty out pleasantly.
Swimming and beaches: You can’t swim in the historic centre itself, but just cross the bridge to the island of Čiovo, where the popular Okrug Gornji beach awaits.
Boat trips: Trogir is a perfect launch point for popular snorkelling trips to the nearby Blue Lagoon off the island of Drvenik Veli.
How long to stay: Two to three hours are enough for the sights themselves, but add lunch and a swim and you’ll easily spend a whole wonderful day here.
If you want to enjoy the most pleasant atmosphere and avoid the punishing heat, the best months to visit are May, June and September. The weather in Trogir, Croatia, is beautifully summery by then (or still is), the sea is comfortably warm, and you can stroll the old town’s lanes without constantly hunting for shade. In these shoulder months you’ll also find accommodation at far friendlier prices and enjoy plenty of personal space on the beaches.
During the peak summer season in July and August, be prepared for temperatures that regularly climb well above thirty degrees, with the stone town heating up considerably. On top of that, between ten in the morning and three in the afternoon, crowds of day-trippers and organised tours stream in from neighbouring Split, so the narrow lanes get truly packed. For that reason I recommend planning your visit to the best-known sights for eight in the morning, when the town is just waking up and you’ll have the loveliest views all to yourself.
Whatever month you arrive, Trogir is at its most magical at dusk and after dark. As the sun sets, the centuries-old stone paving takes on a gorgeous golden glow, restaurant lights flicker on beneath the tall palms along the promenade, and you can soak up genuine Dalmatian romance without the crush. By then most day visitors have long since driven back to their mainland hotels. An evening stroll along the waterfront with an excellent Italian gelato in hand, watching the luxury yachts moored in the local marina, is one of the most beautiful experiences a summer holiday in Croatia can offer.
Where to Stay in Trogir
💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We like to look for places to stay on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. For tickets, tours and activities, it pays to compare and book through GetYourGuide.
Choosing where to stay depends mostly on whether you’re after evening romance right in the heart of the action, or you’d rather have peace and quiet and be a stone’s throw from the beaches. The historic core on the islet itself offers gorgeous boutique hotels in authentic stone houses, but bear in mind you can’t drive there and the evenings can get fairly lively thanks to the bars and restaurants.
If you fancy old-world luxury and don’t mind a slightly higher price point, a fantastic choice is the Boutique Hotel Monika, set right in the labyrinth of ancient lanes with fantastic breakfasts and a beautiful terrace. Another popular spot right in the centre is the traditional Hotel Tragos, housed in a carefully restored eighteenth-century baroque palace, from which all the sights are literally just a few steps away. Staying in the heart of town is absolutely ideal for your first or last night in Croatia, since you can reach Split International Airport by car or bus in just ten minutes.
For families with children or travellers who mainly want to enjoy the sea and save a chunk of the budget, I recommend looking for accommodation on the neighbouring island of Čiovo, specifically in the resorts of Okrug Gornji or Slatine, where you’ll find a wide range of affordable apartments and smaller guesthouses. A lovely compromise between the beach and easy access to the historic centre is the quieter mainland district of Seget Donji. Here you’ll find, for example, the fantastic design-led Brown Beach House, which sits on the mainland just by the bridge and boasts an absolutely iconic pool with sea views. I always recommend booking your accommodation well in advance through Booking, because capacity in this hugely popular region disappears in a flash over summer, and only the priciest options are left at the last minute.
12 Best Things to See and Do in Trogir, Croatia
Let’s take a look together at the most interesting things this unique Dalmatian town has to offer. The historic centre is so compact that you can easily walk the whole thing, and getting your bearings is a breeze thanks to the regular grid of lanes that has survived here since the days of the ancient Greeks.
1. Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Radovan Portal
The most important building in the whole town is undoubtedly the monumental Cathedral of St Lawrence, which locals call Sveti Lovre. Its construction spanned an impressive 370 years, from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century, and it rose on the foundations of a destroyed ancient temple. Thanks to this long build, you can admire a fascinating blend of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance styles that harmoniously merge into one stunning architectural whole.
An absolute artistic gem is the main entrance gate, the so-called Radovan Portal from 1240, one of the most significant Romanesque sculptural works in Central Europe. On it, Master Radovan carved in incredible detail not only biblical scenes — led by Adam and Eve standing on lions — but also the motifs of the individual months of the year and the traditional farming tasks tied to each one.
Inside the cathedral itself, your attention will certainly be drawn to the masterful Renaissance Chapel of St John of Trogir, the work of the finest sculptors of their time, as well as the nearby fifteenth-century baptistery by the builder Andrija Aleši. Basic admission to the cathedral is around €5, but I warmly recommend paying a little extra for the combined ticket at €10, which opens the doors to every part of the complex, including the baptistery and bell tower. During the season it’s usually open Monday to Saturday from eight to six, and from noon on Sundays.
💡 Tip: If you want to study the portal’s details in peace and without shadows, come first thing at eight when the cathedral opens and the sun hits it at the best possible angle.
2. Climbing the Bell Tower for a Breathtaking View
An integral part of the cathedral is its forty-seven-metre bell tower, dating from the fourteenth to sixteenth century, which forms the town’s main and far-visible landmark. Interestingly, two towers were originally meant to stand by the cathedral, but due to a lack of funds and constant historical upheavals only the southern one was ever finished — which gives the whole structure its characteristic asymmetric look.
If you don’t suffer from vertigo and don’t mind a bit of physical effort, definitely don’t miss the climb of roughly a hundred steps to the very top of this historic tower. The way up the stone — and later metal — staircase is rather narrow and steep in places, but once you reach the upper gallery beneath the four statues by the famous Venetian sculptor Alessandro Vittoria, all your tiredness vanishes at once.
From up high you’ll be treated to an unbeatable panoramic view of the old town’s red roofs, the crystal-clear channel, the moored luxury yachts and the green island of Čiovo opposite. It’s from this bird’s-eye perspective that you’ll best understand how cleverly the entire historic settlement is laid out on its little islet, and just how close the open sea really is.
💡 Tip: The combined ticket for the cathedral and bell tower costs around €10. The staircase is genuinely very narrow and passing people coming the other way is tricky, so if you can, avoid the climb around midday when the cruise-ship crowds pack in.
3. The Venetian Kamerlengo Fortress
When you head through the labyrinth of lanes towards the very western tip of the island, you’ll come to a massive stone structure that once protected the town from surprise attacks by sea. The Kamerlengo fortress dates from the fifteenth century, specifically around 1420, and was built by the mighty Venetian Republic shortly after it took its long-lasting control over all of Dalmatia.
Within the walls themselves there are no extensive historical exhibitions or period furniture, but a walk along the mighty fortifications is a huge experience all the same. From the top of the main polygonal tower a beautiful view opens over the promenade, and from this bird’s-eye perspective you can study in detail the photogenic bay full of luxury cruise boats and small fishing vessels that give the town its unmistakable maritime character.
During the warm summer months, the fortress’s empty central courtyard transforms into an amazing open-air cultural venue. Evening concerts by local bands are held here regularly, along with theatre performances and summer cinema screenings, lending the ancient historic walls a unique and very relaxed evening atmosphere.
💡 Tip: Admission to the fortress costs around €5 in season. Right next to it you can also take in the circular St Mark’s Tower during your walk — it was once firmly joined to the fortress by walls and together they formed the town’s impenetrable defensive shield.
4. A Stroll Along the Charming Riva Promenade
The southern shore of the town’s islet is lined by a wide promenade called the Riva, which runs along the entire sea channel and forms the social heart of the whole town. This broad boulevard, shaded by dozens of tall palms, offers a perfect visual contrast to the narrow, shady lanes of the historic core and exudes that quintessential Mediterranean ease all day long.
On a leisurely walk along the waterfront, you’ll have the tempting summer terraces of local cafés and restaurants on one side, while on the other, boats of every kind bob on the water’s surface. A major draw is the neighbouring ACI Marina Trogir on the far bank, where the world’s most luxurious yachts and sailing boats moor in summer, contrasting sharply with the thousand-year-old stone walls of the old town.
The Riva comes alive above all at sunset, when locals and tourists alike head out for the traditional evening corso. It’s absolutely the best spot to grab a delicious gelato, settle onto one of the benches and simply watch the lively bustle on the water and the colourful mix of passers-by enjoying the balmy summer evening.
💡 Tip: Small water taxis set off regularly from the waterfront and will whisk you, for a small fee, reliably and very quickly to the popular beaches of the neighbouring island of Čiovo — without having to wrestle with tricky parking in the summer heat or queue in traffic on the bridge.
5. The Cipiko Palace and Venetian Gothic
Directly opposite the cathedral’s main entrance stands a beautiful complex of historic buildings that once belonged to one of the most influential noble families in the whole Dalmatian region. The Large and Small Cipiko Palaces are an absolutely masterful example of Venetian Gothic and early Renaissance from the mid-fifteenth century, and form an inseparable part of the main town square.
The Cipiko family were extremely wealthy and hired the finest available artists of their time to decorate their residence, as the stunning stone façade clearly attests. You’ll be most captivated by the richly decorated grouped Gothic windows, the so-called triforia, the work of the famous builder Nikola Firentinac, who also played a major part in many other architectural treasures around the town.
Although the palace’s lavish interior is sadly off-limits to the general public, viewing it from the outside is one of the absolute highlights of a visit to the historic centre. The palace’s private courtyard also holds an intriguing wooden statue of a rooster, which family members supposedly brought back as celebrated war booty from one of their successful naval battles against the powerful Turks.
💡 Tip: Try photographing the palace from beneath the arcade of the Town Loggia opposite, which gives you a wonderful angle and lets you frame the most beautiful architectural details of those richly decorated windows without distracting elements or passing tourists.
6. The Town Loggia and the Clock Tower
Right next to the cathedral on the main square of Pope John Paul II stands an unmissable structure with an open colonnade, which once played an enormously important role in the life of every resident. This Town Loggia, dating from the thirteenth to fifteenth century, served in the Middle Ages as a court of law and the place where important laws were publicly announced, major trade contracts were signed and all manner of public disputes were settled.
If you look carefully inside the loggia, you’ll spot beautiful stone reliefs on the rear wall, dominated by the typical winged lion of St Mark — the ever-present symbol of Venice’s long rule over the town. You’ll also find an interesting statue of Justice by Nikola Firentinac, firmly holding the scales in her hands and symbolically reminding every visitor of the original strict judicial purpose of this open space.
Right next to the loggia rises the photogenic clock tower, which is actually the only remnant of the former Church of St Sebastian. This church was built in the fifteenth century as a thanksgiving for the town’s miraculous deliverance from the plague, its greatest architectural quirk being that, instead of a classic bell tower, it was endowed with a striking blue clock.
💡 Tip: On hot summer days the stone Town Loggia provides wonderful, much-sought-after shade. It’s a perfect spot to sit down for a moment, rest and soak up the magical atmosphere of this unique historic square.
7. The North and South Town Gates
Originally the entire town was tightly enclosed within massive defensive walls, which could be entered only through two strictly guarded gateways. From the north, on the mainland side, you’re greeted by the beautiful Land Gate, which in its current form dates from the seventeenth century and above whose stone arch watches a statue of St John of Trogir, the town’s main patron and protector.
When you cross the town through its narrow lanes to the waterfront, you’ll come to the second, slightly older Sea Gate from the end of the sixteenth century. Its massive wooden doors finished with iron fittings survive to this day in their original state, and right beside it you can see a small loggia that once served as a safe refuge for travellers who arrived after the gates closed for the evening and had to wait here until dawn.
Remnants of the walls themselves are today visible above all in the western and southern parts of the islet, where they seamlessly connect with the Kamerlengo fortress. A walk between these two historic gateways takes barely ten minutes at a normal pace, which just goes to show how incredibly tiny and compact this UNESCO-listed historic centre really is.
💡 Tip: At the Land Gate, don’t forget to notice the original architectural details, where you can still clearly see the deep grooves in the masonry for lowering the heavy portcullis that uncompromisingly protected the town from unwelcome guests and raiders.
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to Stay in Trogir
4 accommodations — hotels, wellness hotels and other accommodation options
8. Relaxing on the Beaches in Trogir, Croatia (Čiovo Island)
Since you can’t swim in the historic centre ringed by stone walls, you’ll need to head just beyond the town gates for some time in the water. The most accessible and liveliest of the beaches in Trogir, Croatia, is the so-called Trogir Copacabana — the more than two-kilometre-long pebble beach of Okrug Gornji on the neighbouring island of Čiovo, around three kilometres from the core and lined with dozens of beach bars and restaurants.
If you prefer a quieter setting and the natural shade of trees over pulsing music, head instead to the opposite side, to Medena beach in the Seget area. This three-kilometre pebble beach on the mainland side is fringed by a fragrant pine forest, with a huge range of water sports, inflatable attractions and pleasantly calm corners that are absolutely ideal for families with smaller children.
For lovers of pure nature and crystal-clear Adriatic water, I recommend going deeper onto Čiovo to the smaller hidden coves. Duga beach, for example, offers gorgeous natural scenery and is home to renowned local taverns where you can refuel beautifully and at reasonable prices during a full day of basking in the sun.
💡 Tip: In peak summer season the bridges linking the mainland to Čiovo are often clogged with cars. The most comfortable way to reach Okrug Gornji beach is therefore to use the regular boat lines that depart straight from the Riva promenade and work as reliable water taxis.
9. A Boat Trip to the Turquoise Blue Lagoon
One of the absolute most popular experiences in the whole Dalmatian region is a boat visit to the nearby Blue Lagoon, also known by its local name Krknjaši. This incredibly shallow bay with turquoise water and a light sandy bottom lies just about six nautical miles off the coast near the island of Drvenik Veli and is a genuine paradise for snorkelling and carefree swimming.
Thanks to its strategic location, Trogir is the best possible starting point for this boat trip. Along the entire promenade and by the Kamerlengo fortress you’ll find dozens of moored boats offering half- and full-day cruises, which very often include a so-called three-island circuit, with a stop in the picturesque fishing village of Maslinica on the neighbouring island of Šolta.
Thanks to the white seabed, the water in the lagoon is unbelievably transparent and its vivid colours bring to mind the exotic Caribbean rather than the classic Adriatic coast. Don’t forget to pack quality snorkelling gear — beneath the surface you can watch shoals of tiny fish, crabs and varied marine life in its completely natural environment.
💡 Tip: Trips to the Blue Lagoon can — and very sensibly should — be booked online in advance, for example through the trusted GetYourGuide portal. In the busy summer months this secures your spot on the boat and often a better price than haggling on the scorching pier.
Photo: Hert Niks / Pexels
10. Tasting Dalmatian Cuisine
It would be a huge shame not to visit at least one of the traditional Dalmatian konobas tucked away in the narrow, romantically lit stone lanes. Dalmatian cuisine is built primarily on exceptionally good olive oil, fresh vegetables and fragrant herbs, so you’ll find plenty of excellent options even if you’re after lighter fare and aren’t much of a meat-eater.
While the classic local specialities for meat lovers are aged pršut (prosciutto), traditional beef pašticada and freshly grilled fish, vegetarians are in for a real culinary heaven here. I recommend trying the fantastic creamy risottos, homemade pasta with fresh black truffles imported from nearby Istria, the famous cheeses from the island of Pag, or simply but perfectly prepared grilled vegetables, which taste utterly divine thanks to the local sun.
Among the very best-rated establishments in town is the renowned Konoba TRS, which has even featured in the famous Michelin guide and will gladly and professionally prepare excellent meat-free and gluten-free dishes on request. You’ll also find a very pleasant atmosphere and a shady outdoor terrace with a rich choice of excellent dishes at the reliable and well-frequented restaurant Konoba Fortin.
💡 Tip: Restaurants located right on the main Riva promenade by the sea tend to be noticeably pricier and often more focused on quickly turning over tourists. If you want a more authentic atmosphere, better service and friendlier prices, wander deeper into the side lanes near the historic walls.
Photo: Fred Romero from Paris, France / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0
11. The Monasteries of St Dominic and St Nicholas
If you love quiet, peaceful places that breathe centuries of history and offer an escape from the busy streets, be sure to give the local sacred buildings some attention. On the waterfront just by the fortress stands the fourteenth-century Monastery of St Dominic, which will capture you with its plain yet very striking interior and beautiful painted wooden ceiling. The real historic treasure, though, lies a little further on in the lanes — in the women’s Benedictine Monastery of St Nicholas.
The nuns here carefully guard a precious marble relief of the god Kairos, the ancient Greek god of the fleeting opportune moment. This stunning work dates all the way back to the third century BC and is one of the very most valuable relics from the era of the original Greek settlement, when the town bore the name Tragurion.
Legend has it that the god Kairos has wings on his feet and flies incredibly fast. To catch him by his lock of hair means to seize your life’s opportunity, which is why this unique ancient symbol is today considered the unofficial mascot of the whole town. While strolling the old centre you’re sure to spot him depicted on many local souvenirs, from small jewellery to hand-painted ceramics.
💡 Tip: The collection at the Monastery of St Nicholas is fairly small, but for lovers of ancient history it’s an absolute must. Entry to the small exhibition hall costs just a symbolic few euros, and you’ll also cool off nicely here on hot days.
Photo: Bernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
12. Ancient Salona and Klis Fortress (Game of Thrones)
Once you’ve thoroughly explored the town itself, consider a shorter half-day trip into the immediate surroundings, which are literally dotted with further historic gems. Just about twenty minutes’ drive away lie the stunning ruins of ancient Salona near the present-day town of Solin. This place was once the capital of the Roman province of Dalmatia and could boast a huge amphitheatre seating a staggering fifteen thousand spectators. A walk among the remains of ancient temples, age-old baths and early Christian basilicas is a fascinating journey back in time.
Thanks to the far smaller number of tourists, you’ll enjoy the sights in complete peace here, without the usual crowds you know from the big Croatian resorts. Admission to this remarkably sprawling archaeological park is around €10, and the whole visit takes roughly two hours.
You can very easily combine this trip to Salona with a visit to the nearby hilltop Klis fortress, which rises majestically on a steep rocky crag above Split. This striking medieval structure shot to enormous worldwide fame thanks to the series Game of Thrones, where on screen it played the fictional city of Meereen. Admission to the fortress is likewise around €10, and as a bonus you’ll get probably the very most beautiful views over the entire Dalmatian coast and its islands.
💡 Tip: The Salona site is genuinely vast and offers almost no natural shade. If you visit in the hot summer months, don’t forget to bring plenty of drinking water and a hat, and ideally arrive first thing after opening.
Where to Go Next from Trogir
Thanks to its strategic location halfway along the coast, this place is a perfect springboard for exploring more of Croatia’s beauty. If you’re looking for inspiration for further travels, be sure to check out our big overview article packed with tips on where to go on holiday in Croatia.
Just around the corner awaits the buzzing Split with its unique Diocletian’s Palace, connected to Trogir by convenient bus and boat services. If you prefer nature, I recommend heading northwest to the gorgeous Krka National Park, where you can stroll along wooden boardwalks past the thundering Skradinski Buk waterfalls.
On the way north it’s well worth stopping in the ancient town of Šibenik with its stunning stone cathedral, or you can travel a little further to hear the famous Sea Organ in enchanting Zadar. And if you still haven’t sorted your accommodation, take a look at our tips for trusted accommodation in Croatia.
Search with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
🔗 These are affiliate links — they don't change your price and help us create content. · All experiences →
Trogir also appeared in Game of Thrones as the trading city of Qarth. If you’re drawn to filming locations, check out our Game of Thrones locations itinerary.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the best place to park?
Driving into the historic center on the island is strictly prohibited for all cars. It’s best to use the large paid parking lots on the mainland side, right across from the wooden bridge, such as the popular Travarica parking lot. Prices during the peak summer season range from around 3.5 to 4 euros per hour, with all-day parking costing you approximately 35 to 40 euros. You can conveniently pay in cash or by card at the parking machines.
How do I get from Split Airport to Trogir?
Transport from the airport is absolutely hassle-free, cheap and very fast. Local bus number 37 operated by Promet Split departs right from the airport terminal and takes you to the bus station in Trogir in about ten minutes. A one-way ticket costs 2.50 euros and during peak times the buses run every twenty minutes, from early morning right up until a quarter past eleven at night.
How much time do I need to explore the city?
The UNESCO-protected historic centre itself is truly tiny and very compact. A leisurely stroll through all the streets and viewing the main sights from the outside will take you two to three hours. However, if you’re planning to tour the cathedral interior, climb the bell tower, have lunch at one of the local traditional taverns and enjoy an afternoon coffee on the promenade, it’s better to set aside a relaxed half-day for your visit.
Can you pay by card in the center?
Most decent restaurants, hotels and larger souvenir shops nowadays commonly accept standard payment cards. However, for buying small souvenirs at markets, ice cream on the promenade or tickets for smaller water taxis, always carry cash in euros. Smaller local vendors very often don’t have payment terminals and rely exclusively on cash transactions.
Where are the nearest nice beaches?
You unfortunately can’t swim right at the historic walls of the old town. The most popular choice is the over two-kilometer-long pebble beach Okrug Gornji on the neighboring island of Čiovo, which you can easily reach on foot from the center or even better by quick water taxi. Another great beach alternative is the expansive Medena beach on the mainland side towards Seget, which offers pleasant natural shade from pine trees.
Is the tap water drinkable?
Yes, water from regular tap water here, just like in the rest of Croatia, is completely safe and drinkable without any problems. During your vacation, you don’t need to waste money buying heavy bottled water in plastic. It’s more than enough to bring a reusable bottle with you and simply refill it with fresh water at your accommodation.
When is the best time to visit the monuments?
If you want to reliably avoid long queues at the cathedral and unpleasant crowding in the narrow streets, head out to explore the city early in the morning between eight and ten o’clock. At the stroke of ten, large tour buses and excursion boats with groups from neighboring Split start arriving en masse, and the city fills up heavily until late afternoon.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DRThe island of Rab in the Kvarner Gulf combines sandy beaches (a rarity in otherwise pebbly Croatia), dense Mediterranean scenery and centuries of history — this guide rounds up 11 things to see and do. The star attraction is Paradise Beach in the resort of Lopar, stretching over 1.5 kilometres and reckoned to be Croatia’s longest sandy beach, backed up by around 22 smaller sandy coves nearby. The historic town of Rab, with its four old bell towers and the Cathedral of the Assumption, is easily covered in an afternoon. The island gets more than 2,600 hours of sunshine a year, and the best time to visit is June to September. The ferry from Stinica takes just 15 minutes, and the island has over 100 kilometres of cycling trails.
Do you know that feeling when you’re hunting for the perfect summer destination and just can’t decide between rich history, untouched nature and flawless swimming? Rab in Croatia, tucked away in the Kvarner Gulf, gives you a little of everything and throws in one huge bonus on top: soft sandy beaches everywhere you look. Sand is incredibly rare along the otherwise pebbly Croatian coast, which turns this place into an absolute paradise.
Add dense pine and oak forests to those sandy coves and you’ll understand why Rab is so often nicknamed the emerald or green island. You can look forward to more than 2,600 hours of sunshine a year, which all but guarantees gorgeous weather for your holiday. The north-eastern side of the island is fairly bare thanks to the strong bora wind, but as soon as you cross over to the south-west you’re surrounded by lush Mediterranean vegetation.
In this guide we’ll explore the most beautiful spots and the practical tips that make planning your trip a breeze. We’ll show you where to find the best beaches for families with children as well as the hidden coves for those craving peace and quiet. Get your notebooks ready, because Rab has plenty to offer and a single week might not even be enough to explore it all.
TL;DR
Sandy paradise: Rab is unique for its many sandy beaches, crowned by the famous Paradise Beach in Lopar, which stretches for more than 1.5 kilometres.
Historic town: You’ll recognise the main town of Rab from afar thanks to its iconic silhouette of four ancient bell towers.
Green island: You’ll find sprawling protected forests here, such as Komrčar park or Kalifront, offering blessed shade.
Ferry travel: The quickest way to reach the island is by ferry from the mainland port of Stinica, or via the longer route from the island of Krk.
Local cuisine: You absolutely must try the traditional Rab cake, a delicious dessert made from almonds and Maraschino liqueur.
Active holiday: The island is criss-crossed by over 100 kilometres of marked cycling and hiking trails of varying difficulty.
Cradle of naturism: Rab has a huge tradition of FKK (nudist) beaches, made famous here in the 1930s by a British king.
If you want to enjoy carefree swimming in a warm sea, the best time to visit is from June to September. The island boasts more than 2,600 hours of sunshine a year, so you’re all but guaranteed glorious weather. During the peak summer months of July and August, air temperatures usually hover around 28 to 30 degrees Celsius and the sea sits at a pleasant 25 degrees. Just bear in mind that August brings the biggest crowds of tourists and accommodation prices peak.
For a noticeably calmer holiday, I’d recommend heading over at the turn of May and June or later on between September and early October. During this period the sea is still warm enough for swimming and the sun is strong, but the beaches and the historic lanes are practically empty. That way you can soak up the authentic atmosphere without queuing in restaurants and save a fair bit on accommodation. These months are also far more pleasant for exploring the local cycle paths and hiking trails.
Outside the main tourist season, especially from November to April, the island is very quiet and most services, restaurants and hotels close their doors. November also tends to be statistically the rainiest month of the year, so for a winter escape to warmth I’d opt for more exotic destinations instead. Throughout the year it’s also worth remembering that the north-eastern side of the island is exposed to the strong, cold bora wind, which leaves that part of the coast fairly bare. But if you’re after complete solitude for long walks along an empty shoreline on the sheltered south-western side, the spring months and their reawakening nature will certainly win you over.
Where to stay on Rab island
💡 Accommodation and experiences tip: We prefer searching for accommodation on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. For tickets, tours and activities it pays to compare and book through GetYourGuide.
Choosing the right base for your stay depends mainly on the type of holiday you prefer and exactly who you’re travelling with. The historic town of Rab and its immediate surroundings are absolutely ideal for those of you who want excellent restaurants, cafés and romantic evening strolls through cobbled lanes right on your doorstep. A great choice here is, for example, the upmarket Imperial Valamar Collection Hotel, which sits right by the town’s Komrčar park and offers a perfect base for more demanding travellers.
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to stay on Rab Island
3 accommodations — wellness hotels, resorts and other accommodation options
If you’re travelling with small children and your main goal is sandy beaches and shallow sea, definitely look for accommodation in the resort of Lopar on the island’s northern tip. This is home to the famous Paradise Beach and a huge range of family attractions. Very popular in this area is the San Marino Resort, made up of several smaller hotels and located literally a few steps from the finest sand. It’s a vast, brilliantly equipped complex where you’ll find everything you need, from shops to a variety of sports facilities.
For lovers of complete peace, wild nature and the shade of mature trees, I’d recommend the Suha Punta area or the village of Kampor, where you’ll be surrounded by dense pine forests and small pebbly coves. A golden compromise could be the Banjol or Barbat area, dotted with countless smaller family-run apartments set among fertile gardens and vineyards. From these resorts it’s also just a short walk along the sea into the main town. Always book your accommodation well in advance through the popular Booking.com, because in the summer season the best and best-value places vanish at an incredible rate.
11 best things to see and do on Rab in Croatia
Let’s take a look together at the specific places and experiences you really shouldn’t miss during your holiday. The island offers a fascinating combination of medieval architecture and wild nature, so history lovers and dedicated beach loungers alike will find something to fall for.
1. The historic town of Rab and its iconic bell towers
The island’s main town is a true architectural gem, spread across a narrow peninsula and, from a distance, resembling a huge sailing ship with four masts. Those masts are four ancient bell towers that form the town’s unmistakable silhouette and give it a romantic medieval character. Specifically, they belong to the Cathedral of St Mary the Great, the Church of St John the Evangelist, the Church of St Andrew and the Church of St Justine. Walking along the shore, you’ll come across the remains of mighty 12th- and 13th-century walls that reliably protected the town from seaborne raids.
Be sure to head into the maze of narrow cobbled lanes that bear the historic names Donja, Srednja and Gornja ulica — that is, Lower, Middle and Upper Street. Beautifully preserved stone princely palaces, small monasteries and cosy little squares full of cafés rise up around them. Don’t forget to pass through the historic Sea Gate, which once served as the main, heavily guarded entrance to the town from the old harbour.
The centre itself is fairly small, so you can comfortably walk it in a single afternoon, but I’d recommend getting lost in it without a map and simply soaking up the local atmosphere. In the evening, when the sun sets and the period street lamps light up, the town takes on an incredibly romantic feel. You’ll best enjoy this magical spectacle with a glass of good local wine or a traditional herbal liqueur in one of the local taverns.
Photo: Мария Бряндина / Pexels
2. The Cathedral of the Assumption and a climb into the clouds
Right at the end of the narrow peninsula, directly above steep cliffs plunging into the waves, stands the beautiful Romanesque Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, known to locals more simply as the Church of St Mary the Great. According to surviving historical records, it was consecrated in 1177 by Pope Alexander III himself, who stopped on the island during his long voyage. At first glance its interior may seem fairly austere, but the fine details on the stone columns and the main altar are an absolute masterpiece of medieval island stonemasons.
Right next to the cathedral, its greatest pride rises majestically in the form of an octagonal Romanesque bell tower, or campanile. At a respectable 26 metres tall, it dominates the entire surrounding area and forms the highest point of the town’s skyline. Built back in the 12th century in the shape of a perfect octagonal pyramid, it rightly ranks among the most beautiful structures of its kind along the entire Adriatic coast. If you don’t suffer from vertigo, I’d definitely recommend climbing the steep wooden staircase all the way to the top.
The views from the campanile are absolutely breathtaking and richly reward you for every single step. You’ll see the bright red roofs of the historic townhouses, the endless blue of the Adriatic and, on a clear day, all the way across to the mainland. Admission and exact opening hours can change often during the summer season, so it’s always best to check the current details on the spot at the tourist information centre or at the tower entrance.
3. Paradise Beach in Lopar, made for families
If there’s one particular spot that draws families with small children to Rab from all over Europe, it’s undoubtedly the famous Paradise Beach, known in Croatian as Rajska plaža. It lies in the northern part of the island near the popular resort of Lopar and boasts an incredible length of over 1.5 kilometres, which reliably makes it the longest sandy beach in all of Croatia. It has even earned the prestigious Blue Flag award for its exceptional water cleanliness, and years ago CNN ranked it among the world’s 100 best beaches.
The biggest advantage of Paradise Beach is its wonderfully fine sand and very shallow sea, which deepens only incredibly gradually. Even tens of metres from the shore the water will reach no higher than your knees, so you don’t need to worry about the safety of your smallest travellers, who can build sandcastles here completely carefree. Thanks to that minimal depth the water also warms up very quickly, so its temperature feels more like a pleasantly warm bath at home.
The facilities at this renowned beach are absolutely perfect and you’ll find everything you could possibly think of during a summer day. From small snack stalls to clean showers and toilets, and the option to hire comfortable sunbeds with parasols. For the more active there’s a large floating water park right out on the water, beach volleyball courts on the shore, or you can try adrenaline-pumping parasailing and pedal boats with a little slide.
4. Hidden sandy beaches and the tradition of naturism
While the long Paradise Beach is by far the most famous, the resort of Lopar itself conceals around twenty-two more smaller sandy coves that offer considerably more privacy and the peace you’re after. If you want to avoid the very biggest crowds, head for the beautiful beaches of Livačina, Stolac or Mel, which share a similar sandy character but a much more intimate atmosphere. Many of these smaller beaches are only accessible on foot through fragrant pine forests, which makes them perfect hidden retreats for every romantic soul.
Rab is also very well known around the world as one of the main cradles of naturism on the entire Adriatic. This tradition dates back to August 1936, when the British King Edward VIII is said to have bathed completely naked in the secluded Kandarola bay with his controversial partner Wallis Simpson. Today, the most famous naturist beach is the gorgeous Sahara, which you have to reach on foot over a wooded hill, but your well-earned reward is complete peace and crystal-clear water.
If carefree FKK bathing appeals to you, besides the famous Sahara and historic Kandarola you can also head to the renowned Ciganka beach, which wonderfully combines fine sand with interesting rock formations. Respecting the rules of naturist beaches is taken for granted here, and the local authorities mark these designated zones very carefully, so there’s no danger of stumbling onto one by accident in your regular swimwear.
5. Refreshing shade in the Komrčar forest park
Just beyond the ancient walls of the main town stretches the beautiful wooded park of Komrčar, which in the summer months makes an absolutely perfect escape from the scorching sun. This sprawling park of roughly eight hectares didn’t appear on the island by chance — it was very carefully and deliberately planted at the end of the 19th century. Back then the enthusiastic local forester Pravdoje Belia decided to transform the original bare pastures into a lush green oasis. Today it’s one of the very most popular places for long, peaceful walks.
Strolling along the beautifully maintained, shady gravel paths you’ll marvel at the huge stone pines, centuries-old oaks, tall cypresses and spiny agaves, which mingle quite naturally here with Mediterranean palms and cacti. The air is incredibly clean and intensely infused with the soothing scent of pine needles and evaporating sea salt. Several winding trails run through the park, lined with dozens of well-kept benches inviting you to a pleasant rest with a good book in hand.
💡 Tip: From the highest upper section of the sprawling park you get lovely panoramic views over the old town, and if you follow the paths downhill you’ll come out right onto the landscaped seafront promenade with smaller beaches. It’s an absolutely ideal spot for a morning run or a romantic evening stroll, when the tall trees cast long shadows and the whole area takes on the magical golden glow of the setting sun.
6. A sweet finish in the form of Rab cake
During your visit to the island it would be an absolute sin not to taste the local culinary wonder that is the traditional, world-renowned Rab cake. Don’t expect a classic soft sponge with fluffy cream, though — it’s more of an exceptionally delicious, crisp pastry coiled into the shape of a shell or spiral, with a rich history reaching back to the 12th century. An old legend has it that this unique dessert was baked by skilful local Benedictine nuns for none other than Pope Alexander III in 1177, and its original recipe was a strictly guarded island secret for centuries.
The base of this luxurious delicacy is quality peeled almonds, fresh eggs, sugar and, above all, strong Maraschino liqueur rounded off with grated citrus zest. The resulting flavour is quite reminiscent of good marzipan; the cake is generously dusted with icing sugar on top and crunches beautifully with every bite. Because it contains absolutely no meat or animal gelatine, it’s a perfect treat for all vegetarians, best enjoyed with an afternoon coffee.
If you want to see with your own eyes how this island speciality is made, stop by a shop called Kuća rabske torte right in the centre of the old town. As for other main dishes, fans of meat-free food are sure to be spoilt for choice in the local restaurants thanks to excellent Mediterranean salads, fresh grilled vegetables, local cheeses and great pasta or pizza. Traditional local restaurants and konobas naturally also serve popular Kvarner fish, octopus, fresh seafood and golden roast lamb, which forms the very backbone of Croatian island cuisine.
🔗 These are affiliate links — they don't change your price and help us create content. · All experiences →
7. The tranquil fishing village of Kampor
On the island’s north-western coast lies the picturesque Kampor, considered by locals and tourists alike to be the best-preserved traditional fishing village on all of Rab. The island atmosphere here is far slower, calmer and more authentic than in the bustling beach resorts, which you’re sure to appreciate especially at the height of summer. The village is surrounded on all sides by fertile fields, old olive groves and small vineyards that perfectly round off its unmistakable rural character.
Kampor’s main landmark and by far its most important monument is the ancient Franciscan monastery of St Euphemia, dating from the end of the 15th century. Its cool stone interior holds a rare library of historical manuscripts as well as a very interesting ethnographic collection that maps in detail the hard everyday life of the islanders in centuries past. Visiting this quiet monastery is an extremely pleasant cultural change of pace on hot summer days.
From Kampor it’s only a short hop to many beautiful natural beaches and hidden coves, and several superbly marked cycle paths start right here. You can enjoy a wonderfully peaceful afternoon, take a long walk along the rugged coastline, watch little fishing boats bobbing lazily on the waves and, come evening, drop into one of the local family-run taverns. These often feature live traditional music, serve great local wine and have a thoroughly relaxed, friendly mood.
8. On foot and by bike across the green island
Rab is by no means just a destination for all-day lounging on the beach — it also offers great conditions for an active break. The island is literally laced with more than a hundred kilometres of brilliantly marked hiking and cycling routes, with the total length of all the smaller trails exceeding an incredible 340 kilometres. The routes wind through deep pine forests, past hidden coves and over small hills, so there’s genuinely something for every recreational athlete and family with children.
One of the most popular, physically undemanding routes runs from the town of Rab along the rugged coast all the way to the village of Kampor and on to Dumići bay. It measures roughly 14 kilometres, comfortably passes the old monastery of St Euphemia along the way, and you can cool off in the sea whenever you like. For far more seasoned hikers I’d recommend the climb to the highest mountain ridge of Kamenjak, from which absolutely fantastic panoramic views open up over the whole of Kvarner and the mighty Velebit mountain range on the mainland.
If you don’t have your own bike, no problem at all, because there are plenty of quality rental shops in both the main town of Rab and the resort of Lopar, where you can easily get hold of classic mountain bikes as well as the ever more popular e-bikes. On a hired e-bike you can comfortably cover the whole island in a single day and even reach the most remote coves on the Kalifront peninsula, where no asphalt road leads and where finding a parking space by car would be a real struggle.
9. The wild nature of the Kalifront peninsula and Suha Punta
The Kalifront peninsula, on the western side of Rab, is by far the greenest and least populated part of the entire island. It’s a true paradise for everyone who loves untouched nature, because it’s home to the strictly protected Dundo forest. This unique woodland is one of the very last preserved forests of native holm oak in the whole Mediterranean, and a long walk beneath the mighty crowns of these ancient trees has an utterly unrepeatable, almost magical charm.
On the edge of this wooded peninsula lies the very popular tourist area of Suha Punta, which offers a completely different type of swimming from sandy Lopar in the north. Here you’ll find mostly small pebbly and romantic rocky beaches that slope very steeply into incredibly clean, crystal-clear water. Thanks to the rocky bottom and the absence of drifting sand, conditions here are absolutely ideal for snorkelling and for fascinating observation of the rich underwater life full of colourful fish and tiny crabs.
💡 Tip: Head along the narrow forest trails a little further from the main beach resorts and discover the small hidden coves, where you can have the sea all to yourself even in the middle of August. The whole Kalifront peninsula is also densely criss-crossed with a network of very well-kept gravel paths, making it the ideal terrain for a brisk mountain-bike ride in the full shade of mature oaks and pines, places you wouldn’t easily reach on a regular road bike.
10. How to get to Rab and travelling by ferry
Since Rab is a classic island with no direct bridge link to the mainland, your summer holiday inevitably begins with a romantic ferry crossing. The island is served exclusively by spacious car ferries; there are no fast passenger catamarans for foot travellers operating here as a rule. You have two main routes to choose from, and by far the quickest and most frequently used runs from the mainland port of Stinica, which sits right beneath the majestic Velebit massif, to the island port of Mišnjak in the south of Rab.
This busy line is run by the local company Rapska plovidba and the crossing across the strait takes only about 15 minutes. In the summer season the boats shuttle back and forth up to seventeen times a day, from early morning until half past eleven at night. The price for a car with driver during peak season ranges from around 18 to 27 euros, with an extra fee of about 4 euros per adult passenger. In the summer months, though, queues of several hours form here, so it’s hugely important to consider booking your tickets in advance on the official website ferryrab.com.
The second, noticeably longer option is the ferry from the port of Valbiska on the neighbouring island of Krk, which sails directly to the northern resort of Lopar. This line is operated by the state company Jadrolinija, the crossing takes roughly 80 minutes and is pricier — for a car with driver you’ll pay around 33 to 46 euros. This option, however, pays off enormously if you’re coming from the north and want to take the convenient route over the Krk bridge, saving yourself the long, tiring kilometres of driving along the winding coastal road.
💡 Travelling from the UK? The most practical way to reach the Kvarner region is to fly into nearby Rijeka, Pula or Zadar — there are seasonal flights from several UK airports — and then hire a car for the short drive to the Stinica ferry port. Alternatively, fly into Zagreb year-round and drive down towards the coast. Wherever you land, factor in time for that ferry queue at the height of summer.
11. Boat trips around the area and Kandarola bay
One of the very best ways to discover the true, untouched beauty of the Adriatic coast is the view from the deck of a boat. Right in the main harbour in Rab and in Lopar to the north, you’ll find dozens of tempting offers for half-day and full-day boat trips that reliably take you to the hardest-to-reach beaches. There are frequent sailings, for example, to the neighbouring islands of Goli otok or Sveti Grgur, which have a very dark history as former brutal political prisons but today offer interesting historical tours and beautiful swimming in crystal-clear water.
If you’d like to make a private trip at your own pace, you can hire a small motorboat — but only if you hold the relevant skipper’s licence. Otherwise I’d recommend using the so-called taxi boats that routinely moor in the harbours. For a small fee they’ll take you, for instance, to the well-known wooded peninsula of Frkanj, which lies just opposite the historic centre of the town of Rab. It’s on this quiet peninsula that you’ll find countless small, romantic coves with crystal-clear water.
The most famous bay on Frkanj is the historic Kandarola mentioned earlier, which to this day operates as a very popular naturist beach with excellent facilities including a small restaurant and beach bar. But even if you’re not exactly a fan of swimming without swimwear, the peninsula has plenty of regular textile beaches hidden in the shade of mighty pines. The boat ride itself from the town harbour takes only a few minutes and makes an extremely pleasant refreshment on a sweltering summer day.
Where to go next from Rab
If you have more time and enjoy hopping from place to place on holiday, the Kvarner region offers plenty of other options to set your sights on. A very popular choice is to combine your visit to Rab with the neighbouring island of Krk, easily reached by direct ferry from Lopar, where you can spend several more wonderful days discovering wine cellars and historic little towns.
If you’re interested in planning a trip south in general, be sure to read our comprehensive article full of tips on where to go on holiday in Croatia, where you’ll find a comparison of the best regions from Istria to Dubrovnik. To make finding a place to sleep easier, we’ve also put together a detailed guide to accommodation in Croatia, which will advise you on what to watch out for when booking. And if you dream of spending your whole holiday on the waves, don’t miss our piece on what it’s like to experience Croatia by boat.
Photo: Vladimir Srajber / Pexels
Frequently asked questions
How to best get to the island of Rab from the Czech Republic?
The fastest and most popular car route from the Czech Republic leads classically through Austria and Slovenia towards the Croatian mainland port of Stinica, from where a regular and fast ferry runs to the port of Mišnjak in the south of the island. This crossing takes just 15 minutes. The second, albeit slightly more expensive option, is to cross the bridge to the island of Krk and take the approximately 80-minute ferry from the port of Valbiska directly to the resort of Lopar.
Are there really sandy beaches on the island of Rab?
Yes, and that’s actually the main reason why the island of Rab is so unique and sought-after among tourists. While most of Croatia offers mainly sharp pebbles or concrete platforms, on Rab – and especially around the northern resort of Lopar – you’ll find more than twenty natural sandy beaches. The absolutely largest and most famous is Paradise Beach with very fine sand and an exceptionally shallow seabed.
Is the island suitable for families with small children?
“`html
Rab Island is an absolutely ideal destination for families with small children, probably one of the very best islands in all of Croatia. The shallow sea at the famous Paradise Beach in Lopar slopes so incredibly gently that even the smallest children can swim and play completely safely in the warm water. Moreover, there is plenty of natural shade in many places thanks to the mature pine forests.
“`
Do I need to book the ferry in advance?
Outside the main summer season, booking tickets in advance is definitely not necessary. However, if you’re traveling during the busy months of July or August, especially on holiday weekends, I strongly recommend buying your ferry tickets well in advance online through the official websites of Jadrolinija or Rapska plovidba. This will save you a lot of unnecessary stress and long hours waiting in car queues at the scorching hot port.
Where are the naturist beaches located on Rab?
Rab Island has a huge and long-standing tradition of naturism (FKK), dating back to the 1930s. Among the most famous naturist beaches are the beautiful sandy Sahara near the resort of Lopar, the historic Kandarola bay located on the forested Frkanj peninsula, and also the lovely Ciganka beach. These designated zones are always very well and visibly marked, so you don’t have to worry about stumbling upon them by accident.
How’s the drinking water situation on the island?
The tap water across the entire island of Rab is perfectly drinkable and hygienically safe, so you really don’t need to constantly buy expensive bottled water in single-use plastic bottles. The island is reliably connected to a large mainland water supply system, which ensures stable and trouble-free delivery of high-quality drinking water even during the driest summer months when the most tourists arrive.
Are there cycling paths on the island of Rab?
Yes, the island of Rab is incredibly cyclist-friendly for all fitness levels. You’ll find over 100 kilometers of excellently marked cycling trails of varying difficulty and surfaces. You can ride along flat asphalt paths along the coast, or head out with a mountain bike on more challenging gravel routes to the Kamenjak ridge or into the forests of the Kalifront peninsula. In the main resorts, there are plenty of well-equipped rental shops for both classic and modern electric bikes.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
TL;DRThe Adriatic coast of Albania around Vlora and Durrës mixes sandy beaches, ancient ruins and nature reserves — here are eight ideas to get you started. The beaches at Golem, Kavajë and Lalzit Bay suit families, while Durrës has a Roman amphitheatre (entry 300 ALL). Divjaka-Karavasta National Park is home to flamingos, and the ancient site of Apollonia near Fier costs 600 ALL (closed Mondays). Vlora comes with the Zvernec Monastery nearby, boat trips run out to Haxhi Ali Cave and Sazan Island, and the new Llogara Tunnel cuts the drive to the Riviera down to 7 minutes for 250 ALL. May, June and September are the best months, with temperatures around 25–28°C, while July and August push past 35°C and the beaches get packed. Swimming right in Durrës itself isn’t a great idea — the water there is polluted.
If you’re planning a trip to Albania and looking for the perfect place to unwind, the Adriatic coast and the region of central Albania offer exactly what you need. Unlike the steep cliffs further south, this stretch of the Albania coast is lined with kilometres of long sandy beaches that slope gently into the sea. That’s exactly why families with young children — and travellers who want to combine lazy days by the water with visits to nearby historical sites — head here most often.
The Land of the Eagles is changing right before our eyes, and in 2026 that’s truer than ever. Be prepared: thanks to a strong lek exchange rate, with 1 EUR hovering around 95 ALL, Albania is no longer the ultra-cheap destination it was a decade ago. Huge investments are pouring into the region, new resorts are springing up, and the infrastructure is scrambling to keep pace with the record numbers of foreign tourists — over twelve million arrive here each year.
Despite this breakneck development, the region keeps its enormous charm and a variety that’s bound to win you over. In a single holiday you can explore the mysterious underground of ancient ruins, glide by boat across a still lagoon full of pink flamingos, and then stroll along revamped promenades where modern cafés sit beside centuries-old mosques.
A palm-lined promenade on Albania’s Adriatic coast
TL;DR
Sandy beaches for families: The best facilities with a shallow entry into the water are in the resorts of Golem, Kavajë and the cleaner Lalzit Bay.
Historic Durrës: This port town hides a vast Roman amphitheatre, but it’s best to skip swimming on the city beach itself because of poor water quality.
A birdwatcher’s paradise: Divjaka-Karavasta National Park is home to thousands of flamingos and rare Dalmatian pelicans.
Ancient Apollonia: Fascinating Greek and Roman ruins near Fier — just remember the archaeological park is closed on Mondays.
Where two seas meet: The city of Vlora offers rich history, the island monastery of Zvernec, and marks the line where the shallow Adriatic gives way to the deeper Ionian Sea.
The Llogara tunnel: Since July 2024 it has cut the journey to the riviera to just 7 minutes; in 2026 there’s a toll of 250 ALL.
Boat trips: From Vlora you can sail out to the giant Haxhi Ali cave and to the mysterious island of Sazan, dotted with hundreds of bunkers.
If you want to enjoy the sea, the sights and nature without exhausting heat, spring and autumn are ideal. May, June and then September bring very pleasant temperatures of around 25 to 28 degrees, which is just perfect for combining swimming with day trips. You’ll also dodge the biggest tourist crowds that flood the coast during the peak summer season.
July and August on the Albanian coast mean genuinely high temperatures and packed resorts. The thermometer regularly climbs above 35 degrees and the popular sandy beaches in Golem and Durrës are bursting at the seams. If you’re tied to the school holidays, I’d suggest getting up early to tour the sights before the midday heat, then simply relaxing in the shade by the water in the afternoon.
For nature lovers and photographers, spring has one more huge bonus. The months from March to May are the best time for spotting flamingos and pelicans in the Karavasta lagoon. The water is calm, the birds are very active, and the morning mists create an utterly magical atmosphere over the wetlands that you simply won’t get in the summer heat.
Where to stay: from resorts to boutique hotels
💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We like to look for our stays on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. For tickets, tours and activities, it pays to compare and book through GetYourGuide.
Choosing where to stay along the coast mostly comes down to the kind of holiday you prefer, because each area offers a slightly different experience. While the area around Durrës is packed with large family complexes, Vlora and its surroundings deliver a mix of city life and smaller hotels. Before you start searching, decide whether you want everything within reach on an all-inclusive basis, or whether you’d rather head out to a different traditional tavern every evening.
Here are some specific tips for tried-and-tested places to stay across all categories (you can compare prices and availability with a single click via Stay22, which finds the best deal across Booking.com, Airbnb and others):
Nuna Hotel & Apartments – Rated 9.2, apartments near Liro beach — plenty of space for families and couples.
Valza Boutique Hotel – A boutique hotel in the centre of Vlora with a friendly price and breakfast included.
Tirana Resort Radhime – A family resort by the quieter Radhimë beach, with cleaner water than central Vlora.
If Vlora is your destination, a great choice for families is the Nuna Hotel & Apartments, which scores 9.2, sits just steps from the beach and offers very spacious rooms. Right in the heart of town you’ll find the lovely Valza Boutique Hotel with a more intimate feel. For a quieter stay by the pebble beach just south of the city, be sure to check out the popular family-run Tirana Resort Radhime.
If you’re after a classic beach holiday on shallow sand near Durrës, head to the resorts of Golem or Lalzit Bay. Luxurious facilities with pools and a kids’ club are provided by the five-star Grand Blue Fafa Resort & Spa. An even cleaner beach and a more modern setting come courtesy of the Mövenpick Hotel Lalez Durres complex in Lalzit Bay.
In the city of Durrës itself, choose carefully because of the bathing water quality. If you want to base yourself here for the history, a strategic spot in the centre is the Grand Duka Hotel & Spa. And if you insist on five-star luxury right by the sea, the renovated Adriatik Hotel BW has a private beach and impeccable service that completely shields you from the busy city.
8 things to see and do on Albania’s Adriatic coast
Whether you’re planning to spend your entire holiday on the beach or to set out on an active road trip, central Albania serves up a surprising number of contrasts. Let’s take a look together at eight specific places and experiences you definitely shouldn’t miss when you visit this region.
Photo: Marcin Konsek / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)
1. Durrës: a Roman amphitheatre and a treacherous city beach
The port city of Durrës is the oldest settlement in the entire country, already flourishing in Roman times under the name Dyrrhachium. The biggest draw here is the monumental Roman amphitheatre from the 2nd century, which once held up to 20,000 spectators. Admission is a pleasant 300 ALL (roughly €3), and your ticket also covers the nearby Archaeological Museum. It’s open daily from 9:00 to 19:00, and you can even walk through the dark underground tunnels where gladiators once made their entrance.
As for swimming in the city itself, I have to be honest with you. The water quality on the main city beach has worsened significantly in recent years, and official measurements show that much of the coast right by Durrës isn’t suitable for bathing at all. In the summer months the city struggles with overloaded infrastructure — tap water often flows for just 13 hours a day — and unfortunately huge amounts of untreated sewage end up in the sea.
💡 Tip for vegetarians: If you stop for lunch in town and are after quality meat-free food, head to the Dyrrah Mare Restaurant. They have clearly marked vegetarian options and do a brilliant job with traditional stuffed peppers (speca të mbushura) or excellent grilled vegetables.
The shallow sandy beaches are ideal for families with children
2. The sandy resorts of Golem and Lalzit Bay
If you’re looking for easy, relaxed swimming with the family, the solution is to drive a little way out of central Durrës. Heading south, the resorts of Golem and Kavajë stretch out, where kilometres of resorts line the wide sandy shoreline. The sea here is incredibly shallow, so even small children can safely splash about tens of metres from the shore, and the whole area buzzes with that classic holiday energy of promenades and beach bars.
If you have a car and prefer somewhere a bit quieter, I’d recommend heading north of Durrës to Lalzit Bay. This area started developing a little later, the beaches here are noticeably cleaner, and you’ll find more modern resorts that don’t feel as crowded. It’s the ideal compromise between comfort and clean Adriatic water.
💡 Tip: If you’re not staying in a resort with a private beach, bear in mind that renting two sunbeds and a parasol will set you back roughly 1,000 to 1,500 ALL (about €10–16) a day in these resorts in 2026. Free public stretches are dwindling year on year.
Photo: Pexels
3. Divjaka-Karavasta National Park: a flamingo paradise
About halfway between Durrës and Vlora lies a place that feels like balm for the soul. Divjaka-Karavasta National Park protects the largest lagoon in Albania and ranks among the most significant Ramsar wetlands in Europe. Here, concrete hotels give way to dense pine forests and quiet water channels that are home to an astonishing 230 species of birds.
The main magnet for visitors is the huge flocks of pink flamingos and, above all, the colony of rare Dalmatian pelicans. Around 6% of the entire European population of this majestic bird nests in this single lagoon. The best way to explore the lagoon is to hire a small wooden boat with a local guide.
💡 Tip: Come here as early in the morning as you can, when the birds are most active and the light for photography is absolutely ideal. You’ll find references to trips into this area on portals like GetYourGuide, but it’s easy enough to arrange and pay for a boat on the spot at the visitor centre.
Just outside the industrial town of Fier, a vast archaeological treasure hides among gently rolling hills. The ancient city of Apollonia was founded by the Greeks back in 588 BC, and in its day it was such a prestigious centre of learning that even the young Octavian — the future first Roman emperor, Augustus — came here to study. You can wander among the ancient columns of the portico and admire the restored odeon.
In the middle of the complex stands the beautiful Byzantine Monastery of St Mary from the 13th century, which today houses a fairly rich archaeological museum. The whole site is very spread out, so set aside at least two hours to see it, and don’t forget to bring plenty of water — there isn’t much shade around here.
💡 Visiting tip: The entrance fee was recently revised, and an adult ticket costs 600 ALL (just under €6.50), while students pay 180 ALL and children get in free. Just be very careful when planning your itinerary — the park is always closed on Mondays.
Photo: Pexels
5. Vlora: where the Adriatic becomes the Ionian Sea
Vlora acts as the symbolic gateway to the south, and it’s the exact spot where the long Adriatic shallows give way to the deeper, pebbly Ionian Sea. The city holds enormous historical importance, because it was here, on 28 November 1912, that Albania declared its independence from the Ottoman Empire. The interesting Independence Museum charts this event, with a symbolic entrance fee of around 300 ALL.
Also worth seeing is the newly restored old town with its picturesque lanes, crowned by the historic Muradie Mosque from 1537. It was designed by the celebrated Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. In the evening, be sure to head out onto the long Lungomare seafront promenade, lined with palm trees and cafés — after sunset it comes incredibly alive.
💡 Tip for vegetarians: If you’re after excellent meat-free food right in Vlora, I warmly recommend La Loggia, where they make great vegetable smoothies and falafel. For a completely traditional experience, visit Taverna Te Lilo, where they’ll serve you perfect spinach or cheese byrek and a delicious fërgesë me perime (a meat-free mix of peppers, tomatoes and cheese). The local coast is famous for fish and seafood, of course, but you can happily leave those to everyone else.
Just north of Vlora you’ll find a spot that looks like something off a postcard. In the sprawling Narta lagoon, surrounded by pines, lies the little island of Zvernec, home to a picturesque Byzantine Monastery of the Virgin Mary from the 13th century. Even getting there is an experience, as you have to walk to the island across a roughly 250-metre-long wooden bridge.
The whole area is incredibly photogenic. The bridge arches just above the shallow water, and entry to the island is completely free. Flocks of flamingos often gather in the surrounding lagoon, flying in to feed.
💡 Tip: If you love photography, head to the bridge early in the morning at sunrise. The surface of the lagoon is usually perfectly still at that hour and works as a flawless mirror reflecting the surrounding trees and the wooden walkway.
A rocky cove with turquoise water on the Karaburun coast
7. A boat trip to the Karaburun peninsula and Sazan Island
Boats set out every day from the port in Vlora to the country’s only protected marine park. The destination is the wild Karaburun peninsula and, above all, the fascinating Haxhi Ali cave — the largest sea cave in Albania, with an entrance over 60 metres high. The boats often sail right inside, where you can admire the incredibly emerald colour of the water and even go snorkelling.
These trips usually include a stop on Sazan Island, which for many years served as a strictly secret military base. Today you can stroll among the abandoned barracks and explore some of its more than 3,600 bunkers. Group boat trips (run here by the likes of Boat Vent Tours) usually cost around €30 to €50 per person and are easy to book through GetYourGuide or directly at the kiosks along the promenade.
💡 Tip and context for 2026: Sazan Island recently found itself in the global spotlight. A company linked to Jared Kushner plans to build a luxury resort here worth $1.6 billion. In June 2026 this sparked mass protests in Tirana under the slogan “Albania is not for sale”, and the SPAK anti-corruption prosecutor’s office launched an investigation into the whole land-sale process. So on your visit you’ll be looking at a place whose future is currently the subject of a major political battle.
Photo: Pexels
8. Llogara: the new tunnel versus the epic old pass
As soon as you head south from Vlora towards the riviera, the majestic Ceraunian mountain massif rises up in your path. Until recently there was only one way to cross the mountains — the old SH8 road climbing to over 1,000 metres. In July 2024, though, the situation changed dramatically with the opening of the nearly six-kilometre Llogara tunnel, the longest in the entire country.
The tunnel is a huge relief for locals and tourists rushing to the beach alike, as it cuts the journey from Dukat to Palasë from the original 45 minutes to just 7. After an introductory free period, however, from 2026 the tunnel carries a toll. A car pays 250 ALL for a one-way trip, or 500 ALL for a return ticket.
💡 Tip: Even though the tunnel is super fast, I’d recommend driving the old SH8 pass at least one way. The route through the pine forests of Llogara National Park is full of wild hairpin bends, and at the top you’ll be rewarded with some of the most beautiful views of the Ionian Sea in all of Europe. You can stop for a coffee and watch the paragliders who launch from the mountains and fly all the way down to the beach.
Where to go next from the Adriatic coast
Although central Albania has plenty to offer, most travellers use it as a springboard for further adventures. If you love history and wild stories, definitely consider a trip to the town of Krujë, the seat of national hero Skanderbeg, or take inspiration from our broader guide What to See in Albania. You should also explore the nearby, pulsating capital — you’ll find tips in our article Tirana: what to see in the capital.
On the way south you can also turn inland from the coast to visit the fascinating Gjirokastër: the stone city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And if you’ve had enough of the sea altogether, the rugged Accursed Mountains: Theth and Valbona in the north of the country make a complete contrast to the hot coast.
🔗 These are affiliate links — they don't change your price and help us create content. · All experiences →
Frequently asked questions
When will Vlora Airport open and can you fly there?
Although the new Vlora Airport (code VLO) is already built and test flights have taken place, in 2026 it still doesn’t operate commercial flights. Due to missing certification and various disputes, airlines had to cancel their plans. For traveling to the coast, you still need to use the airport in Tirana (transfer takes about 2.5 to 3 hours) or fly to Greek Corfu and cross by ferry to the south.
Is the sea clean for swimming right in Durrës?
Unfortunately, it’s not. Due to the enormous pressure from tourism and insufficient infrastructure, a large amount of untreated sewage flows into the sea at the city beach and the water quality here is rated as very poor. If you want to swim in this area, it’s better to head north to Lalzit Bay, or alternatively south towards the resorts near Golem.
How much does it cost to pass through the Llogarë tunnel?
The new tunnel, nearly 6 kilometers long, which significantly speeds up the journey from Vlora to the southern riviera, is after an initial period subject to a toll of 250 ALL (approximately 2.5 EUR) per car in one direction. The return journey will therefore cost you 500 ALL. The old scenic route over the mountain pass remains toll-free.
Is payment in resorts more common in euros or Albanian lek?
In tourist areas like Durrës or Vlora both currencies are commonly accepted. However, due to the strong exchange rate, where you get only around 95 ALL for 1 EUR, it often pays to pay in local currency to avoid losing out on unfavorable conversion rates in restaurants. You can pay by card in larger hotels and supermarkets, but cash is still a necessity in the Balkans.
Is the Adriatic coast suitable for a vacation with small children?
Definitely yes. Unlike the southern pebble riviera, the area around Golem and Kavajë offers long sandy beaches with a very gradual entry into the sea. The water is warm here, the sandy bottom is safe, and you’ll find plenty of all-inclusive resorts that are specifically tailored for families with children.
How do I get to Sazan Island and Haxhi Ali Cave?
The best way is to take group boat tours that depart daily from the port in Vlorë (often leaving at 9:00, 11:00, and 1:00 PM). Tickets cost approximately 30 to 50 EUR per person. You can arrange the tours either directly on the waterfront promenade at local agency stands, or book them online in advance.
What good things can I try from the local cuisine if I don’t eat meat?
Albanian cuisine is very vegetarian-friendly. Definitely try the traditional byrek filled with cheese or spinach, which is great as a quick snack. In restaurants, look for fërgesë me perime (a thick mix of peppers, tomatoes and cheese), speca të mbushura (peppers stuffed with rice) or the hearty bean soup fasule.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
