The north of Sardinia is famous for the glamorous Costa Smeralda coastline and its gleaming yachts, but the real, wild treasure lies just a little further out to sea. The moment you board the ferry in the port of Palau and cross the narrow strait, the national park and archipelago of La Maddalena, Italy opens up before you. Travellers from all over the world rave that the water here is so impossibly turquoise and crystal-clear that, at times, you’ll feel as if you’re in the Caribbean rather than the Mediterranean.
The whole archipelago is made up of seven main granite islands and dozens of smaller islets, all strictly protected as a national park since 1994. They say you’ll find the very most beautiful beaches in all of Sardinia here, but don’t be fooled — it’s not just about lounging on white sand. You’ll also discover stunning panoramic roads, fascinating history tied to the Italian hero Garibaldi, and wild nature that’s guaranteed to take your breath away.
In this guide you’ll find 10 tips on what to see and do in La Maddalena so you don’t miss a single corner of this slice of paradise. We’ll look at how to get around between the islands, where you’ll run into strict visitor limits, and what to watch out for when choosing a boat trip.
TL;DR
- Getting to the island: Ferries from the town of Palau run to the main island of La Maddalena constantly, the crossing takes just 15 to 20 minutes, and they’ll happily take you across with a hire car too.
- Getting around: For the main island and neighbouring Caprera (connected by a bridge) you’ll need a car or scooter; the other islands can only be reached by boat.
- The most beautiful beach with a limit: Cala Coticcio beach on Caprera island has a strict limit of 60 people per day, and entry is only possible with an authorised guide for a fee.
- Pink Beach ban: The famous Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli island has been strictly protected since 1998 — you can’t set foot on it, and swimming in its immediate vicinity is also banned.
- Boat trips and the wind: Book your archipelago boat tours in advance, but always keep a close eye on the mistral wind forecast, which often causes trips to be cancelled.
When to go and how to reach the La Maddalena archipelago
Planning a trip to the archipelago takes a bit of strategy, as it’s one of the most sought-after destinations in all of Italy. The main gateway to the islands is the little port town of Palau in northern Sardinia, from which ferries shuttle to the main island of La Maddalena throughout the day. The best-known company is Delcomar, whose boats run very frequently and the crossing takes only 15 to 20 minutes. Tickets can be bought right at the port and the ferries carry cars without any problem.
If you’re wondering about the La Maddalena weather and when to go, July and especially August can be a real test of nerves. During the Italian holidays (around the Ferragosto bank holiday) the crowds pour in, temperatures climb to 35 °C and prices for accommodation and services shoot up sharply. A much more pleasant time is reportedly June or September, when the sea is still beautifully warm at around 24 °C, but the town’s alleys and the beaches are far more bearable.
Another crucial factor for your visit is the weather — or rather the unpredictable mistral wind (maestrale in Italian). This strong north-westerly wind can whip up the sea within a few hours to the point where all boat trips get cancelled. Seasoned travellers recommend regularly checking the forecast in the Windfinder app and having a plan B ready on the main island, which you can reach by car.
Where to stay: La Maddalena hotels and bases
Your accommodation strategy depends on how much time you want to spend in the national park. If you only plan to explore the islands over a day or two, it makes sense to stay on the mainland around Palau or Santa Teresa Gallura and just do day trips to La Maddalena. You’ll save on ferrying your car across and avoid the extra logistics. Most organised boat trips also depart from Palau, so in the morning you’ll only have a few steps to the harbour.
But if you want to soak up the true island atmosphere — when the last day-trippers leave, the buzz fades and the town takes on an incredibly romantic feel — stay right on the main island of La Maddalena. Here you’ll find both boutique hotels in the historic centre and quieter resorts with pools just outside town. Just bear in mind that capacity is limited and, especially in the peak summer season, the best deals disappear months in advance.
Sleeping right on the La Maddalena archipelago means having paradise on your doorstep even after the afternoon excursion boats sail off and the island falls quiet. A practical alternative is Palau on the mainland, just a few minutes away by ferry and easier to reach by car. Choose according to whether you want peace and quiet, or a convenient base for setting off on trips:
✨ For wellness and tranquillity: Grand Hotel Resort Ma&Ma (La Maddalena) — an elegant resort with a spa just steps from the beaches; adults-only calm and the island almost to yourself once the day-trippers have gone.
💑 For couples near the sea: Hotel La Funtana (La Maddalena) — a modern hotel with a pool close to both the town and the beaches; a comfortable base for exploring the archipelago.
💰 For a central stay at a reasonable price: Petit Hotel Cavour (La Maddalena) — a cosy little hotel right in the centre of La Maddalena town, with everything within walking distance in the evening and at a pleasant price.
⛵ For convenient boat trips: Hotel La Roccia (Palau) — in Palau on the mainland, just minutes from the harbour where the boats set off for the archipelago, with easy access by car.
💡 One last tip: you can book most hotels through Booking.com with free cancellation, so you can reserve your favourite spot right away and decide later. Just don’t wait too long — the most in-demand seaside addresses sell out for July and August up to six months ahead and peak-season prices climb tens of percent higher.
What to see on the main island of La Maddalena
Of all seven islands, the main one is the busiest and the only one that’s permanently and densely inhabited. Life here revolves around the harbour where the ferries arrive from the mainland, and that’s exactly where you can set off to explore. The advantage of the main island is that you can comfortably drive around it in your own car or on a scooter, giving you total freedom over where and how long you stop.
1. The town and bustling harbour of La Maddalena
The moment you roll off the ferry, you find yourself right in the heart of the town of the same name, full of narrow cobbled lanes, ochre and pastel houses with wooden shutters and the aroma of strong Italian espresso. The focal point is the picturesque Piazza Garibaldi, around which cafés, restaurants and small craft shops cluster. They say the town has its best atmosphere in the whole north in the evening, when the street lamps come on and locals head out for the traditional passeggiata (evening stroll). Be sure to set aside time to wander around the harbour, where fishing boats bob alongside luxury sailing yachts.
2. The panoramic road and the Bassa Trinità and Spalmatore beaches
The best way to explore the main island is to take the scenic road known as the Strada Panoramica, which loops around most of the island. This route offers breathtaking views over turquoise bays and the neighbouring islands, and around almost every bend you’ll feel the urge to stop and take photos. Among the most popular stops is Spalmatore beach on the east coast, which is sheltered from the wind and has good facilities. But if you’re after something wilder, head north to the brilliant white Bassa Trinità beach with its gorgeous sand dunes, or to the picturesque Cala Lunga bay. In peak season, though, definitely come early in the morning, because the car parks by the best beaches fill up in a flash.
3. Sunset at Punta Tegge
The western tip of the island hides the spot of Punta Tegge, which is strikingly different from the classic sandy beaches. Instead of fine sand, you’ll find flat granite reefs and boulders that the sea and wind have sculpted over millennia into bizarre, rounded shapes. It’s an absolutely perfect place to watch the sunset. In the evening light the rocks turn golden and even red, and the sight of the sun dipping below the horizon with the island of Spargi in the background is said to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. What’s more, you’ll often find lovely beach bars here where you can enjoy an evening drink and just listen to the lapping of the waves.
Caprera island: Garibaldi and a Caribbean cove
Right next to the main island of La Maddalena lies Caprera, which is conveniently linked to it by the man-made Passo della Moneta bridge. So you can drive across without any trouble. Unlike its busier sister, Caprera is wild, green and laced with pine groves. A large part of the island is protected, no roads lead to many of its coves, and you have to reach them on foot along dusty trails.
4. The house and museum of Giuseppe Garibaldi
Caprera is famous not only for its nature, but above all as the place where the celebrated Italian general Giuseppe Garibaldi spent the last twenty-six years of his life. If you have even the slightest interest in history, a visit to the Compendio Garibaldino complex is almost a must. Here you can see his iconic “White House”, which he built himself in the style of South American farms, as well as his personal belongings, his library and his tomb. It’s fascinating to see that the man who unified Italy chose this remote, wind-battered corner of Sardinia for his rest. I’d recommend checking ticket prices and opening hours on the museum’s official website.
5. Cala Coticcio beach, aka the Sardinian Tahiti
This is the absolute jewel of the entire national park and probably one of the most famous beaches in Italy. Thanks to its fine white sand and incredibly vivid turquoise water, Cala Coticcio has earned the nickname Tahiti. But because it suffered from an enormous influx of tourists in the past, the park authority introduced extremely strict rules and limits. The daily limit is currently set at just 60 people, and you can only reach the beach accompanied by an authorised guide after roughly an hour-long trek across rocky terrain. There’s a small fee of around €3 for the guide. The rules can also change slightly from year to year, so for the current season be sure to check the booking conditions on the national park’s official website.
The most beautiful islands and coves for a boat trip
While you can tackle La Maddalena and Caprera on your own, for the remaining islands of the archipelago you’ll need a boat. And it would be a huge shame to skip them, because it’s precisely the uninhabited islands in the north-west of the park that offer the most iconic postcard views of Sardinia. Dozens of companies run boat trips, and choosing the right one is key to a successful experience.
6. Budelli island and the forbidden Pink Beach (Spiaggia Rosa)
Budelli island hides one of the greatest natural wonders of the Mediterranean. The famous Spiaggia Rosa, or Pink Beach, got its name from the microscopic shells of foraminifera and fragments of coral that tinted the sand pink. Unfortunately, tourists used to carry this sand home by the kilo in bottles, so the beach almost lost its colour entirely. Since 1998, entry has been strictly forbidden (Zone A, the highest level of protection). You can’t set foot on it, and there’s even a ban on swimming and anchoring boats within 70 metres of the shore. Breaking the rules carries a €500 fine, and stealing sand an incredible €3,500. During boat trips the captain will show you this legend only from a respectful distance, but it’s well worth it all the same.
7. Spargi island and Cala Corsara bay
Spargi is the third-largest island in the archipelago and probably the one with the most dramatic coastline. Its calling card is steep granite cliffs and coves that once served as a pirate hideout. By far the most popular stop for all the boats is the beautiful Cala Corsara bay on the southern tip of the island. When you arrive, you’re greeted by dazzling white sand and rocks in which, with a little imagination, you can make out the shape of a dog’s head or a boot. The water here is so clear that the boats look as if they’re floating in mid-air.
8. Santa Maria island
Compared with rocky, wild Spargi, Santa Maria is much flatter and greener. It’s the only place besides the main island of La Maddalena and Caprera where you’d find a few private houses, but these serve mostly as summer residences. The main draw is the huge Cala Santa Maria bay with its very shallow seabed, resembling a giant natural swimming pool. This is exactly where boats often head for a longer swimming break, because the water here is a touch warmer and ideal for snorkelling.
9. Santo Stefano island
On boat trips you’ll usually only see this island from the deck as you sail past. It has a very interesting and slightly secretive history. In the past it housed a US submarine base, and to this day the Italian navy still uses part of the territory. The rest of the island is occupied by an exclusive holiday resort, so the island isn’t freely accessible to ordinary tourists and the usual excursion boats don’t stop at its beaches. Even so, it’s interesting to take a look at it as you sail by and listen to the captain’s tales from the Cold War era.
10. A full-day La Maddalena boat trip
To see all these gems with your own eyes, you’ll need to book a full-day tour. Most boats set off in the morning from Palau or from the harbour in La Maddalena. You can choose either a large excursion boat, which is cheaper but packs in a lot of people, or pay a little extra for a smaller catamaran or an inflatable boat (gommone) with a skipper. Smaller boats have the huge advantage of being able to slip into shallower coves where the big ferries aren’t allowed. In peak season, booking trips well in advance is an absolute must — easily 48 hours ahead. You can easily compare a selection of excellent boat tours on portals like Sardegna Turismo or through booking apps.
💡 Tip: Tickets, boat trips and organised tours fill up quickly in season, so it pays to buy them online in advance on GetYourGuide.
What to eat at a La Maddalena restaurant
Sardinian cuisine is incredibly rich, and although traditional island restaurants naturally tempt you above all with fish specialities, vegetarians certainly won’t go hungry here. Sardinia has a strong pastoral tradition, so cheeses and pasta take centre stage. They say it would be a sin to leave without tasting the famous culurgiones — hand-pleated pasta parcels filled with potato, pecorino cheese and fresh mint, often served in a simple tomato sauce.
With every meal they’ll be sure to bring you pane carasau, an incredibly thin and crispy bread sometimes nicknamed “music paper” for its appearance. For a sweet finish, be sure to order seadas (or sebadas). These are large fried parcels filled with melted young cheese and generously drizzled with local honey — it sounds a little odd, but apparently it’s an absolute flavour bomb. And of course, don’t forget to wash it all down with a glass of the excellent local white wine, Vermentino di Gallura, which is grown in the north of the island and boasts Italy’s highest DOCG certification.
Where to go next
If you’re planning to explore other parts of this fascinating island, our other comprehensive guides are sure to come in handy. Here’s a selection of the most useful ones:
- Sardinia holiday: what to see and do
- The most beautiful beaches in Sardinia
- Costa Smeralda and northern Sardinia
Frequently asked questions
How to get to the La Maddalena archipelago?
The easiest route is via the port of Palau in northern Sardinia, from where ferries regularly depart to the main island of La Maddalena. The journey takes approximately 15 to 20 minutes and the ferries also transport cars.
What to see on La Maddalena?
On the main island, don’t miss the historic center with the harbor, the scenic Strada Panoramica road, Spalmatore or Bassa Trinità beaches, and unforgettable sunsets at the rocky Punta Tegge. From neighboring Caprera, be sure to visit Garibaldi’s house.
Can you visit the Pink Beach on Budelli?
No, entry to the famous Pink Beach (Spiaggia Rosa) has been strictly prohibited since 1998 due to nature conservation. You cannot set foot on it, swimming nearby is forbidden, and you can only see the beach from a distance during a boat trip.
What is Cala Coticcio called Tahiti?
It’s one of the most beautiful beaches in the national park, located on the island of Caprera. Due to nature protection, there’s a strict limit of maximum 60 visitors per day and access is only possible for a fee accompanied by an authorized guide.
Is a boat trip around the La Maddalena archipelago worth it?
Definitely yes. Without a boat trip, you won’t be able to reach the most beautiful wild islands such as Spargi, Santa Maria, or Budelli. It’s precisely these uninhabited islands that offer the most famous Caribbean-like scenery.
Do I need a car on La Maddalena?
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On the main island of La Maddalena and neighboring Caprera, you’ll definitely make use of a car or scooter – without one, it’s quite difficult to reach the more remote beaches. However, you can’t get to the other smaller islands of the national park by car anyway and you’ll need to take a boat.
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Where to stay on La Maddalena?
If you want to experience the island’s evening atmosphere, stay right in the town of La Maddalena on the main island. However, if you’re only planning day boat trips, it’s cheaper and logistically easier to stay on the mainland, for example directly in Palau or the surrounding area.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
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Compare car prices in Italy →Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
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