Building a Paris itinerary for 3 days so you can soak up the city from the moment it wakes early in the morning — when the smell of freshly baked butter starts to mingle with the cool air — is exactly the reason this trip is worth making. You’re sitting at a little tin table on the pavement, sipping a strong espresso, a toddler dozing contentedly in the pram beside you, watching the owner of the café across the street roll up the shutters. This city has enormous power. It can wear you down with endless metro stairs and the blunt honesty of the locals, but once you play by its rules, it wraps you right around its finger.

The year 2026 is a genuine turning point for the French capital in many ways. After the Olympic Games, the city took a deep breath and began a massive transformation. Notre-Dame Cathedral finally gleams like new and its doors are wide open once again. The famous Centre Pompidou, on the other hand, has closed for years due to a huge renovation. In summer, after a hundred years, people will officially be able to swim directly in the River Seine again. And for me, as a vegetarian, the news of the year came from the legendary three-Michelin-star restaurant Arpège, which switched to a fully plant-based menu. Paris is simply greener, and its pedestrian zones keep expanding.

Planning a meaningful three-day trip takes a bit of strategy. Especially if you’ve got a small traveller with you who has a completely different opinion on how fast you should move between sights. Forget the encyclopaedic ticking-off of twenty places a day — that’s a surefire route to evening tears (and not just the toddler’s). The golden rule: a maximum of two major sights per day, and the rest of the time spent wandering, eating well and soaking up the atmosphere.

Our itinerary is realistic and tested in practice, including the most important test of all — surviving with two-year-old Jonáš. You’ll find variations for a long weekend as well as plans for families, couples and die-hard foodies. Plus a list of traps to give a wide berth. 😉

TL;DR

• Notre-Dame is open again: In 2026 the cathedral is back up and running after its restoration. Entry is free but requires a mandatory online time-slot booking.
• Centre Pompidou is closed: Due to asbestos removal, the building is fully shut until 2030 — forget about it this year.
• The Louvre only with a ticket in advance: You can only get in with a ticket bought for a specific time slot. Skip the glass pyramid and use the Porte des Lions entrance.
• Travelling with kids? The Cité des Enfants section (for ages 2 to 7) in La Villette park is closed for renovation until 9 June 2026.
• The best view of the city: It’s not from the Eiffel Tower, but from the rooftop of the Galeries Lafayette department store, or from the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper.
• Always start with Bonjour: Every time you walk into a shop, bakery or restaurant, you have to start with a greeting. Without it, Parisians will simply ignore you.
• The metro is hell for prams: The Paris metro is full of stairs. The only fully step-free line with lifts is line number 14.
• Watch out for tourist traps: Don’t eat on Place du Tertre in Montmartre — it’s an overpriced tourist trap. Head to the Marais or the 11th arrondissement instead.
• Beware of pickpockets: At the airport and near the main sights, ignore anyone with petitions and anyone who drops a gold ring on the ground in front of you. These are organised gangs.

When to Visit Paris: Weather, Crowds and the 2026 Calendar

Choosing the right month sets the mood for your whole trip. The city shifts from a romantic backdrop to a scorching concrete jungle and back again. Lukáš and I love the months when you can sit on a terrace in a light jumper and drink wine without having to fight the crowds for a seat.

The Best Months for a 3-Day Itinerary

Spring and autumn are an absolute safe bet. I think May is the most beautiful month of the whole year. The trees are in blossom, the days stretch out pleasantly, and you can finally lay out a picnic blanket in the parks in peace. September and October are just as wonderful. The period known as la rentrée (the return after the holidays) brings fresh energy to the streets. New exhibitions open in the museums, and the trees in the Luxembourg Gardens start to take on gorgeous golden hues. A windbreaker or a light trench coat will always come in handy during these months.

💡 Tip: If you’re planning to visit museums, go in October or November. Waiting times drop dramatically and you can finally breathe freely in the galleries.

When to Stay Home Instead

If you possibly can, avoid August. This is the month when Parisians flee en masse to the seaside. The city may seem emptier, but on plenty of the best independent bistros, cafés and bakeries you’ll find a sign reading fermeture annuelle (annual holiday). That leaves you mostly at the mercy of the tourist traps. On top of that, the tarmac melts unpleasantly under the heatwave. Also watch out for the weeks at the turn of February and March, when the famous Fashion Week takes place. Accommodation prices shoot up to astronomical heights then.

💡 Tip: August has one upside. Thanks to the Paris Plages event, the banks of the Seine turn into artificial beaches with sand and sun loungers, which kids absolutely adore.

Key Dates and Events in 2026

This year’s calendar is packed with events that will either greatly enrich your plans or complicate the logistics a little. If you’re travelling in spring, mark 12 April 2026 in your diary — that’s when the Paris Marathon is run. Traffic in the centre collapses and many streets are closed, so with a pram it’ll be a bit of a logistical adventure. All the more beautiful, then, is 6 June, when the whole city holds Nuit Blanche (White Night) and art installations glow until the early hours.

For lovers of Impressionism, Monet’s Gardens in Giverny open after winter on 1 April. But be extremely careful in autumn. On the weekend of 19 and 20 September 2026, European Heritage Days (Journées du Patrimoine) take place, and the gardens in Giverny are strictly closed on those two days.

💡 Tip: If you’re in Paris on 21 June, you’ll experience Fête de la Musique. In every little square, in the streets and outside the cafés, bands play completely free of charge. It’s the best evening for wandering the city.

Where to Stay in Paris: Safety, Prams and Budget

Paris isn’t a tidy grid like Barcelona — it’s a snail shell, spiralling out from the historic centre clockwise, and I’ve got lost in it more than once myself. Each of the twenty arrondissements works like its own little city, with its own town hall and a completely different mood. With a toddler in a pram, you’re after a compromise between safety, wide pavements and good coffee round the corner.

6th Arrondissement (Saint-Germain): The Holy Grail for Families

This is the essence of Parisian elegance on the Left Bank. It’s completely safe, the pavements are generous, and you’ve got the gorgeous Jardin du Luxembourg right under your nose, with its puppet theatre and big playgrounds. We spend loads of time here with the pram. It’s a pricier area, but the peace and quiet is worth it.

• Hôtel des Saints Pères (4 stars): A beautiful historic hotel on a quiet street. They offer more spacious rooms (by Parisian standards) and will happily set up a cot for you. A double room costs around €280 a night.
• Hôtel Clément (2 stars): A great budget choice right by the Saint-Germain market. They have a lift and very welcoming staff. A night comes to roughly €150.

💡 Tip: The cafés on Boulevard Saint-Germain are expensive. Duck into the side streets towards the river instead, where you’ll find quieter and cheaper bistros.

3rd Arrondissement (Northern Marais): Hipster and Quiet Zone

While the southern part of the Marais is bursting at the seams at weekends, the northern part (Haut Marais) is quiet, trendy and dotted with independent boutiques and cafés. The streets are wider here and the atmosphere far more neighbourly. You’ll find the best falafel in the city here, along with the fantastic covered market Marché des Enfants Rouges.

• Hôtel Les Bains Paris (5 stars): If you’re after luxury and design, this is it. A former famous bathhouse and nightclub turned hotel. Prices from €400 a night.
• Hôtel du Petit Moulin (4 stars): A boutique hotel with interiors designed by Christian Lacroix. The façade looks like an old bakery. A night runs around €250. They have a lift, which is key for a pram.

💡 Tip: This neighbourhood is full of vegan and vegetarian spots. Try the excellent burgers at Hank Restaurant.

7th Arrondissement (Invalides / Eiffel): Pure Residential Calm

An extremely quiet and safe neighbourhood. If you want the Eiffel Tower right round the corner and to have an evening picnic on the lawns of the Champ de Mars with the kids, this is the ideal choice. But the venues close early in the evening here — for nightlife you’ll have to go elsewhere.

• Hôtel Muguet (3 stars): A family hotel with extremely friendly staff and Eiffel Tower views from some rooms. They offer family rooms. Around €200 a night.
• Hôtel de l’Empereur (3 stars): Views straight onto Les Invalides, great access to the river and very quiet nights. A night costs around €180.

Where Definitely Not to Stay

Not every part of Paris is romantic. With a family, give a wide berth to the northern part of the 10th arrondissement around Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est. It’s a notorious haven for organised pickpockets and it doesn’t feel particularly safe there at night.

I also don’t recommend staying right on the boulevards below the Montmartre hill (around the Pigalle and Barbès-Rochechouart stations). Night-time chaos reigns there, the noise is enormous, and it’s really not the right atmosphere for evening strolls with a pram.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to stay in Paris

6 accommodations — wellness hotels, hotels and other accommodation options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏨 Hotel

Hôtel des Saints Pères

Beautiful historic hotel on a quiet street in the 6th arrondissement (Saint-Germain). They offer more spacious rooms (by Parisian standards) and will prepare a cot for you without any problem.

★★★★ from €280 per night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hôtel Clément

Excellent budget choice right by the Saint-Germain market in the 6th arrondissement. They have an elevator and very friendly staff.

★★ from €150 per night

Check availability ⭐ Luxury

Hôtel Les Bains Paris

Luxury hotel in the 3rd arrondissement (Northern Marais). Former famous bathhouse and nightclub transformed into a designer hotel.

★★★★★ from €400 per night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hôtel du Petit Moulin

Boutique hotel in the 3rd arrondissement (Northern Marais), with interiors designed by Christian Lacroix. The facade looks like an old bakery. They have an elevator, which is essential for strollers.

★★★★ from €250 per night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hôtel Muguet

Family hotel in the 7th arrondissement (Invalides/Eiffel) with incredibly friendly staff and views of the Eiffel Tower from some rooms. They offer family rooms.

★★★ from €200 per night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hôtel de l’Empereur

Hotel in the 7th arrondissement with views directly onto Les Invalides, great access to the river and very quiet nights.

★★★ from €180 per night

Check availability

During a short weekend, what you mainly need is an efficient base from which you can easily reach the main sights and your planned day trip out of town. For us, the location of Hôbou worked brilliantly thanks to its proximity to metro line 10 for trips into the centre and a direct bus to Versailles. I describe how it all came together logistically in my review of the stay, and you can check current availability here.

Where to Eat: Bistros, Bakeries and Morning Coffee

Finding good food in Paris isn’t all that hard — what’s harder is finding the kind that won’t ruin your family budget and where they won’t pull a face when you turn up with a pram. Over the years, Lukáš and I have found a few sure things here that we love to go back to. You really can’t go wrong by avoiding the big boulevards and ducking a couple of streets further in.

Our Tried-and-Tested Tips for Any Time of Day

It all starts with a good breakfast. I recommend finding the nearest local boulangerie (bakery) and grabbing a fresh croissant or pain au chocolat to go. Have your coffee at a more modern café, because traditional Parisian coffee in an ordinary bistro is often quite bitter and over-roasted.

For lunch we always look out for signs reading Formule Midi, a great-value two-course lunch menu. We then love to spend our dinners over good wine at one of our favourite bistros in the Marais or in the 11th arrondissement. But don’t forget that plenty of well-known Parisian restaurants require booking ahead — otherwise you won’t get a table in the evening, no chance.

Ground Rules for Your Paris 3-Day Itinerary

Before you throw yourself into the whirl of the city, let’s set some realistic expectations. Paris is enormous, and trying to squeeze everything into three days is a reliable recipe for exhaustion and tears (and not just the toddler’s).

The Myth That You’ll See It All

Big museums like the Louvre or Orsay swallow time by the hour. With a two-year-old you can’t afford eight-hour art marathons. Split your day into two main blocks. Devote the morning, when the toddler has the most energy, to one major sight. Then comes lunch, a break in the park or a nap in the pram, and leave the afternoon just for leisurely wandering around a neighbourhood.

💡 Tip: Don’t plan metro journeys from one end of the city to the other more than twice a day. Always focus on one specific neighbourhood and explore it on foot.

Transport and Navigo Cards (2026)

The Paris metro is a historic gem, but for families with prams it’s pure hell. Only 20% of stations have step-free access. The holy grail is line 14, which is fully automated and one hundred percent step-free.

Paper tickets have all but disappeared. Buy a plastic Navigo Easy card (it costs €5) and top it up with what’s called a carnet (a pack of 10 journeys for roughly €17.35). If you arrive on a Monday and plan trips to Versailles or the airport, the weekly Navigo Découverte for €32.40 is worth it. But it runs strictly from Monday to Sunday, so for a long weekend starting on a Thursday it’s no longer worthwhile.

💡 Tip: Download the Bonjour RATP app. It has a built-in Accessibility Mode that will route you only through stations with working lifts.

The Golden Rule of Bonjour and Etiquette

This is the single most important thing in the whole article. Every interaction in France has to begin with the greeting Bonjour (after 6pm, Bonsoir). Walking into a bakery? Bonjour. Getting into a taxi? Bonjour. If you skip this magic word and go straight to ordering a coffee, the French take it as a sign of absolute arrogance. They’ll start ignoring you and you’ll be handed the worst table in the house.

💡 Tip: In a restaurant, never cut bread (the baguette) with a knife. Always break it with your hands. And don’t hide your hands in your lap under the table — keep them resting on the table at the wrist.

Day 1: The Great Classics and Getting to Know the City

On the first day we tackle the biggest icons. The ones you know from postcards and the very reason people come to Paris in the first place. But we’ll do it cleverly, to dodge the worst of the crowds.

Morning at the Eiffel Tower (from Trocadéro)

The Iron Lady works like a giant magnet. But you can skip the lift to the top with a clear conscience. There are huge queues, the tickets (€14.80 to €36.70) have to be hunted down 60 days in advance, and on top of that you won’t see the main attraction from up there — namely the Eiffel Tower itself.

Instead, get off the metro at Trocadéro station right after breakfast. Around eight in the morning you’ll practically have the place to yourself. The view across the esplanade and fountains straight onto the tower is absolutely breathtaking. From here, walk down to the river, cross the bridge and let your child run around for a while on the lawns of the Champ de Mars.

💡 Tip: For the most iconic photo without the crowds, head to the dead-end Avenue de Camoens in the 16th arrondissement. Beautiful old buildings and trees frame the shot.

Late Morning at the Musée d’Orsay

While everyone else rushes to the Louvre, head to the Musée d’Orsay (entry €16). This former railway station holds the finest collection of Impressionism in the world. In 2026 the museum celebrates its 40th anniversary, and the atmosphere beneath the glass vault is far airier than at the Louvre. It’s also much easier to navigate with a pram. Don’t miss Monet’s paintings, Van Gogh’s self-portrait and the giant station clock, through which you can see the Montmartre hill.

💡 Tip: If you have your child in a carrier, leave the pram in the cloakroom (vestiaire) free of charge. The wooden floors in the galleries can handle the wheels, but you’ll be far nimbler in the crowd in front of Van Gogh.

Lunch in the 7th Arrondissement

The 7th arrondissement offers plenty of quiet bistros. Look for signs reading Formule Midi. This is a lunch menu where you get a starter and a main for a great-value €18 to €28. There’s always at least one meat-free option for vegetarians, often an excellent creamy risotto or a quiche.

💡 Tip: If you want to experience absolute plant-based luxury and budget is no object, the legendary Arpège restaurant by chef Alain Passard, just nearby, has switched to a fully vegan menu. Lunch here, though, will set you back €260.

Afternoon: Sainte-Chapelle and a Reborn Notre-Dame

Cross over to the Île de la Cité island. Start at Sainte-Chapelle (entry €13). This 13th-century Gothic chapel has almost no walls, just enormous stained-glass windows. When the afternoon sun shines through them, you’ll feel like you’re inside a giant kaleidoscope.

From here it’s just a few steps to Notre-Dame Cathedral. After the devastating fire it has reopened, and the stone inside is incredibly light and clean. Entry to the nave is free, but you have to reserve a time slot through the official Notre-Dame de Paris app.

💡 Tip: Ignore all the sellers on the street trying to push skip-the-line tickets to Notre-Dame on you. They’re scammers — entry really is free.

Evening Wandering in the Marais

End the day in the 4th and 3rd arrondissements, in the Marais. The narrow medieval streets survived the great rebuilding of the city, and today they’re full of independent boutiques, bakeries and Jewish history. Stop on Rue des Rosiers at L’As du Fallafel. They make the best falafel in Europe here. A pita stuffed with hot balls and fried aubergine won’t be turned down even by die-hard carnivores.

💡 Tip: On Saturdays L’As du Fallafel is closed for Shabbat. If you’re here at the weekend, pop straight across the road for excellent food at Mi-Va-Mi.

Day 2: Art, Arcades and Romance Above the City

On the second day we head to the Right Bank (Rive Droite). It’ll be a day full of art, historic shopping arcades and views from above.

Morning: The Louvre, Done Strategically and Queue-Free

Walking the entire Louvre in one day is madness — Lukáš tried it once and swore he’d never do it again. We set aside about three hours for it; our legs won’t take more anyway. For 2026 there’s a strict rule: entry is only possible with an online booking through the official Louvre website for a specific time (around €22). Anyone who turns up blind will spend hours in the queue.

Avoid the main glass pyramid. Head to the inconspicuous Porte des Lions entrance in the southern Denon wing. Queues here tend to be minimal and it spits you out right next to the Mona Lisa. Go straight to her first, before an impenetrable cluster of people with phones forms in front of her.

💡 Tip: If you want to experience the Louvre with a magical atmosphere and half the crowds, buy a ticket for the extended Wednesday or Friday opening hours (it stays open until 9.45pm).

Late Morning: Covered Arcades and the Opéra Garnier

From here, head north on foot. Paris hides a network of historic 19th-century covered arcades with glass roofs and mosaic floors. They’re completely free and a dream to push a pram through. Walk through the gorgeous Galerie Vivienne (2nd arrondissement), full of old bookshops and little cafés.

Carry on as far as the Opéra Garnier. Even if you’re not going to a performance, pay for the daytime tour (€14). The grand marble staircase and the gilded foyer will take your breath away.

💡 Tip: If you love hot chocolate, the famous Angelina tearoom is just a short walk from the Louvre. Their thick l’Africain chocolate is legendary, but be prepared for a queue.

Lunch: Les Halles or Rue Montorgueil

Stop for lunch around Rue Montorgueil. This pedestrian zone is one big food paradise. You’ll find dozens of cheese shops, bakeries and bistros here. Pop into Paris’s oldest patisserie, Stohrer (dating from 1730), and grab a fantastic éclair for the road.

💡 Tip: If you need water, ask the restaurant for une carafe d’eau. It’s a jug of tap water and it’s always free.

Afternoon: Montmartre and Sacré-Cœur Without the Sweat

In the afternoon, take the metro to Montmartre (18th arrondissement). It’s a hill full of stairs and cobblestones, so with a pram it’ll be a bit of a bumpy ride. Avoid the main three hundred steps below the Sacré-Cœur basilica and hop on the Funicular. An ordinary metro ticket works on it.

The basilica itself, made of snow-white travertine, has free entry. Afterwards, stroll along Rue de l’Abreuvoir with its pastel-coloured houses and snap a photo of the famous pink house, La Maison Rose.

💡 Tip: Ignore the restaurants on Place du Tertre. They’re pure tourist traps with mediocre food and inflated prices. Head down the hill to eat instead.

Evening: Sunset from the Galeries Lafayette Rooftop

Once you’ve come down from Montmartre, head back to the 9th arrondissement and the department stores. The Galeries Lafayette Haussmann has a huge rooftop terrace on the top floor. Entry is completely free. Buy a coffee downstairs, take the lift up and wait for the sunset. From here you’ll see all of Paris, including the sparkling Eiffel Tower.

💡 Tip: The neighbouring department store Printemps has a terrace called 7e Ciel. There tend to be slightly fewer people there and the view is just as stunning.

Day 3: Hidden Paris and Parks

On the third day we slow down. We’ll wander around the Left Bank, soak up the intellectual atmosphere and enjoy the parks that kids love so much.

Morning: The Latin Quarter and the Panthéon

Start in the 5th arrondissement, in the Latin Quarter. The Sorbonne students once ruled here; today the lanes smell of crêpes. Walk all the way to the majestic Panthéon (entry €13). Beneath its enormous dome rest the greatest figures of French history, from Victor Hugo to Marie Curie. The space is vast and step-free.

💡 Tip: If you’re a fan of the series Emily in Paris, just a short walk from the Panthéon you’ll find the picturesque little square Place de l’Estrapade, where the fictional Emily has her flat.

Late Morning: Jardin du Luxembourg

From here it’s just a hop to the Luxembourg Gardens (6th arrondissement). For a two-year-old it’s an absolute paradise. While you admire the palace and the flower beds, the children can sail little wooden sailboats across the central fountain.

💡 Tip: In the middle of the park is the famous puppet theatre, Théâtre des Marionnettes. A show with the classic Guignol costs just €2.70 and runs on Wednesdays and at weekends.

Lunch: Marché des Enfants Rouges

For lunch we move back to the Right Bank, to the 3rd arrondissement. Marché des Enfants Rouges is the oldest covered market in Paris. It works like a wonderful open-air food court. You’ll find stalls with Japanese bento, Lebanese salads and fantastic Moroccan vegetable tagines. You take your food over to the wooden tables. With a toddler it’s ideal, because it’s noisy and nobody minds children running around.

💡 Tip: Grab a sandwich from the Chez Alain Miam Miam stall. Alain is a local celebrity and his vegetarian galettes stuffed with cheese and vegetables are phenomenal.

Afternoon: Musée Rodin and Relaxation

Spend the afternoon at the Musée Rodin in the 7th arrondissement (entry around €14). It’s my favourite museum for families. The collection of sculptures is housed inside a beautiful mansion, but the main attraction is outside. The garden is dotted with sculptures, including the famous Thinker. You can let your toddler toddle along the wide sandy paths between the roses while you calmly admire the bronze muscles.

💡 Tip: You can buy a ticket for the garden only (it costs roughly €4). It’s one of the cheapest and most beautiful escapes in all of Paris.

Evening: A Walk Along the Seine and Natural Wine

In the evening, head down to the River Seine. A walk along the riverside (for example Parc Rives de Seine) is car-free and completely safe. Stop at one of the wine bars (cave à manger) in the 10th or 11th arrondissement. Natural wine (vin nature) is a huge phenomenon here. Try Septime La Cave, for example.

💡 Tip: Parisians love the time known as apéro (between 5pm and 8pm). If you head out for a drink at this hour, having children on the terraces is perfectly normal and tolerated.

Variation for Couples: 3 Days of Romance

If you’re lucky enough to have sorted out childcare and you’re flying to Paris just as a couple, the city offers a completely different pace.

Sunsets and Speakeasy Bars

Devote your evenings to discovering secret bars. Parisian mixology is among the best in the world. Head to Little Red Door in the Marais, which regularly scores in the rankings of the 50 best bars in the world. If you’re after a bit of fun, find the Lavomatic bar in the 10th arrondissement. You walk into an ordinary public launderette, and a secret door behind one of the washing machines lets you up into a buzzing venue.

💡 Tip: Enjoy the sunset from the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper (entry around €20). Unlike the Eiffel Tower, you won’t face such long queues here, and best of all, you’ve got the tower itself right in the frame.

Jazz Evenings on Rue des Lombards

Paris and jazz have gone together since the First World War. Head to Rue des Lombards in the 1st arrondissement. You’ll find the clubs Le Duc des Lombards (elegant, serious jazz) and Sunset/Sunside (great acoustics in an underground cellar).

💡 Tip: For an authentic experience, go to Caveau de la Huchette in the Latin Quarter. A medieval cellar where scenes from the film La La Land were shot and where people genuinely dance the swing.

Variation for Families with Kids: Paris with a Toddler

Paris can be incredibly family-friendly — you just need to know the right places where a child can safely let off steam.

Playgrounds, Puppets and the Jardin d’Acclimatation

Besides the Luxembourg Gardens, the Jardin d’Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne (16th arrondissement) is an absolute must. It’s the oldest amusement park in Paris. Entry costs €7 and you’ll find a little Normandy farm with animals, pony rides, a water playground and plenty of attractions tailor-made for the very smallest visitors.

💡 Tip: ⚠️ Watch out in 2026! The popular children’s section Cité des Enfants (for kids aged 2 to 7) in La Villette park is CLOSED for a huge renovation until 9 June 2026.

Atelier des Lumières Instead of Dull Museums

Classic museums will bore toddlers to tears, reliably. Take them to the Atelier des Lumières (11th arrondissement, entry €14.50) instead. A former foundry transformed into a giant digital canvas. The paintings of famous masters come to life here, flowing across the walls and floors to the accompaniment of music. It’s dimly lit, children can roam freely and chase the patches of light on the ground.

💡 Tip: In spring 2026 there’ll be a dinosaur exhibition here (Planète Préhistorique). If your child is going through a dinosaur phase, this will absolutely blow their mind.

Variation for Foodies: 3 Days Full of Flavour

French gastronomy is going through a revolution. The epicentre of so-called bistronomy (a combination of fine cooking in an informal setting) is the 11th and 10th arrondissements.

From Michelin Stars to Street Food

If you manage to snag a reservation a month in advance, go to the restaurant Septime (11th arrondissement). Chef Bertrand Grébaut holds a Michelin star here, but the casual feel of the place puts you at ease right at the door — no stiff atmosphere, just great food. For fantastic savoury buckwheat crêpes (galettes), head to the Breizh Café chain.

And if you want to save money and experience the huge noise and bustle of a traditional French canteen, queue up for Bouillon Chartier (9th arrondissement). You can get a classic meal here for just a few euros.

💡 Tip: Being a vegetarian in Paris is no longer a problem. Head to 42 Degrés (11th arrondissement), the only raw food bistro in France. Nothing is cooked above 42°C here, but the presentation rivals haute cuisine.

A Sweet Finish at Cédric Grolet’s

Parisian patisseries look like jewellers’ shops. Cédric Grolet is currently the world’s biggest pastry rockstar. He makes desserts that look exactly like real fruit (trompe-l’œil). You can’t tell his lemon apart from the real thing by sight, but inside it hides a fluffy mousse.

💡 Tip: Have your ice cream at the legendary Berthillon on the Île Saint-Louis. Their dark chocolate sorbet is superb. But they’re closed on Mondays and Tuesdays!

What to Do If You Have 2 Days or 5 Days Instead

The itinerary can easily be expanded or, conversely, brutally trimmed depending on how much time you have at your disposal.

A Quick Weekend (2 Days)

If you only have 48 hours, stick strictly to the centre. Devote the first day to the axis between the Eiffel Tower, the Musée d’Orsay and Les Invalides. On the second day, combine the Louvre (just for 2 hours), Notre-Dame and head up to Montmartre in the afternoon. Drop everything else with a clear conscience.

💡 Tip: For the weekend transfer from Charles de Gaulle airport (CDG), watch out for the RER B train. It’s a notorious hotspot for pickpocket gangs. Wear your backpack on the front and don’t take your eyes off the zips.

5-Day Itinerary: Versailles and Giverny

Got some extra days? Head out of town. Devote the fourth day to the Palace of Versailles. Buy timed tickets online. With a pram, the best option is to take the line N train from Gare Montparnasse (not the commonly recommended RER C line). Get off at Versailles Chantiers station — it’s quieter.

On the fifth day, take a trip by train to the village of Giverny in Normandy. Monet’s Gardens with their iconic Japanese bridge and water lilies are a dream come true for every art lover.

💡 Tip: At Versailles, do things in reverse. Go to the gardens by the Grand Canal first, where your child can run off some energy. Save the palace itself for later in the afternoon.

Rescue Plan: What to Do in Paris When It Rains

Parisian rain can be persistent. When it catches you out, take cover under a roof, but don’t waste time at the hotel.

Take Cover Underground and in the Arcades

This is exactly the moment to explore the covered arcades in the 2nd and 9th arrondissements (Passage Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas and Galerie Vivienne). If you have older children or a toddler sleeping in a carrier, book tickets for the Paris Catacombs in the 14th arrondissement. In the tunnels twenty metres below ground lie the neatly arranged bones of millions of Parisians, and the atmosphere down there is utterly indescribable.

💡 Tip: Tickets for the Catacombs open exactly 7 days in advance and vanish in a flash. They won’t let you down with a pram — a carrier is mandatory.

What NOT to Do in Paris (And Scam Warnings)

Read this one twice. Paris is gorgeous, but it can be ruthless with unprepared tourists.

The Most Common Tourist Traps

• Don’t take the lift up the Eiffel Tower: You’ll spend hours in the queue, pay a fortune, and see the city without its biggest landmark — namely the Eiffel Tower itself. Go to the Tour Montparnasse instead.
• Don’t buy coffee on the main boulevards: A coffee on the Champs-Élysées will cost €8 and taste like over-roasted water. Duck a couple of streets further in.
• Don’t go to the Centre Pompidou: As I wrote in the introduction, it’s completely closed until 2030 for asbestos removal.

💡 Tip: If you want to see the Arc de Triomphe, never dash across that insane roundabout full of cars to get to it. Use the safe pedestrian underpass, Passage du Souvenir.

Pickpockets and Street Scams

Parisian pickpockets are highly organised professionals. They most often operate on metro line 1 and line 6 (when tourists are staring out of the window at the Eiffel Tower).

• The gold ring trick: Someone picks up a ring on the street in front of you, asks if it’s yours, then forces it on you as a gift and starts aggressively demanding money. Just ignore them and walk on.
• Bracelets on Montmartre: Below the steps to Sacré-Cœur, men will try to quickly tie a string around your wrist and then demand payment. Keep your hands in your pockets and say “Non” firmly.
• Fake petitions: Deaf-mute girls (often only pretending) shove clipboards at you for a signature under the bridges by the Seine. While you read, their other hand is going through your pockets.

💡 Tip: If someone offers you “skip-the-line” tickets in front of the Louvre or Notre-Dame, they’re fake tickets, 100%.

Practical Info

Travelling around Paris with a family mainly requires good logistics and a financial cushion.

Money, Prices and Budget

In 2026 you can pay by card (Apple Pay / Google Pay) practically everywhere. Even for a single baguette in the bakery for €1.30. But always carry around €20 to €50 in small change for purchases at the markets (e.g. Marché d’Aligre) or for tips.

How much will it cost (a 3-day budget for two adults):

• Low-cost / Student: Around €400. This is how we used to travel before Jonáš and it was great fun 😅 Accommodation further from the centre, buying baguettes and cheese at bakeries, getting around on foot and free sights.
• Comfortable middle (our style): Roughly €1,000 to €1,400. A lovely hotel in the 6th or 3rd arrondissement, lunch formules at bistros, a few paid museums and coffee at specialty roasters.
• Luxury: Unlimited. Dinner alone at a Michelin restaurant will set you back €300 to €500 per person.

💡 Tip: Coming from the UK, check your roaming plan before you go. To be safe and avoid surprise charges, an eSIM like Holafly or Yesim gives you reliable data the moment you land — no faffing about with local SIM cards.

Where to Next

If Paris has stolen your heart, take a look at our other articles from the French capital:

• What to See in Paris: a more detailed breakdown of the individual neighbourhoods and sights.
• The Best Museums in Paris: where to head for art once you’ve ticked off the Louvre.
• What to Eat in Paris: a guide to French gastronomy, from snails to the very best baguettes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Before your trip to Paris, we’ve put together answers to the most common questions you might have. I hope it makes planning easier and saves you a few wrinkles on your forehead.

The moment you step off the plane or ferry and take your first deep breath, you’ll feel it instantly. Corsicans call it the maquis, and it’s a truly distinctive blend of wild thyme, rosemary, myrtle and sun-baked earth. The famous military commander Napoleon Bonaparte himself once reportedly declared that he could recognise his home island blindfolded, purely by this unique scent. And today we’re heading together to the very city in Ajaccio, Corsica, where this French emperor was born.

Ajaccio is the capital of Corsica and offers an utterly fascinating combination of an elegant French atmosphere and rugged island pride. Don’t expect a polished Riviera with promenades for ladies walking their poodles, though, because Corsica is far wilder and more untamed. In this article I bring you 11 tips on what to see and do in Ajaccio and its immediate surroundings. You’ll discover where to find the most beautiful works of art, where to head for sunset, and how to plan your trip so you avoid the biggest tourist crowds.

TL;DR

• Napoleon at every turn: Definitely don’t miss his birthplace, Maison Bonaparte, and the majestic monument on Place d’Austerlitz.
• World-class art: The Musée Fesch holds the second-largest collection of Italian painting in France, after the Louvre in Paris.
• Natural scenery: Head to the Pointe de la Parata and take a boat out to the Sanguinaires Islands (Îles Sanguinaires), where you’ll witness an unforgettable sunset.
• When to go: Absolutely avoid August, when the island is bursting at the seams. The ideal months for a relaxed holiday are May, June and September.
• Transport and logistics: Without a car you’re lost on Corsica, so make sure to rent one right after arriving by ferry or landing at the local airport.

Ajaccio, Corsica Weather and How to Get There

Corsica has four airports in total, and the largest international one is right in Ajaccio, where you can fly very conveniently during the summer season with a connection in Paris or Nice. For travellers from the UK, the simplest options are direct seasonal flights to Ajaccio Corsica airport from London, or a quick hop via Paris with Air France. A large number of travellers, however, logically choose to go by ferry, because it makes huge sense in terms of getting around the island itself. I recommend looking for tickets with Corsica Ferries, which sails regularly from several French and Italian ports. The fastest connection is from the French port of Nice, from where you can reach Bastia in Corsica in 6 to 7 hours. The crossing from Toulon takes roughly 8 to 10 hours, and from Marseille you’ll be aboard the boat for a good 11 to 14 hours, so don’t forget to pack a good book.

If you’re weighing up dates, there’s one absolutely crucial rule here. Skip August entirely if you can, because that’s the month when the French and Italians descend on the island in force, with two to three times as many people as in July. The roads quickly turn into endless car parks, ferry and accommodation prices for 2026 shoot to absurd heights during this period, and the best beaches around the city are hopelessly packed. The ideal months to visit Ajaccio are June and especially September, when the sea is still beautifully warm from summer and you can finally breathe freely in the old town’s narrow streets. May, meanwhile, is fantastic for hiking, because the whole island is incredibly fragrant and in full bloom. As for the Ajaccio Corsica weather, expect hot, dry summers and mild winters, with the swimming season comfortably stretching from late May to October.

Bear in mind that without a car you’re stuck on Corsica. Public transport does technically exist here, but relying on it means spending your holiday pointlessly waiting for buses that may not even turn up. A car gives you the real freedom to discover empty coves and breathtaking mountain passes inland. A single ferry ticket for one passenger costs between €40 and €100. A return ticket for two people with a car will then set you back roughly €250 to €1,000. It depends mainly on how far in advance you book your trip and exactly which port you sail from, with routes from Italy historically working out a touch cheaper.

Where to Stay in Ajaccio

💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We like to look for accommodation on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. It then pays to compare and book tickets, tours and activities through GetYourGuide.

Ajaccio offers two main strategic areas where it makes complete sense to look for accommodation. Your choice depends mainly on whether you prefer lively city bustle or perfect peace and quiet by the beach. If you want all the historic sights and renowned cafés within arm’s reach, stay right in the historic centre near the harbour and Place Foch. Accommodation here tends to be a bit pricier, and be aware that parking in the narrow one-way streets can be quite a headache for less experienced drivers. That romantic evening atmosphere of an illuminated town full of excellent restaurants is well worth it, though.

The second and very popular option is to look for hotels along the Route des Sanguinaires. This is a stunning coastal road that stretches west out of the city towards the Sanguinaires Islands and offers absolutely fantastic views. Here you’ll find plenty of lovely resorts with direct sea views, just a few steps from the best sandy beaches. On top of that, parking is far easier here, which you’ll really appreciate when travelling with a rental car on Corsica. I recommend sorting your accommodation well in advance via Booking, because the best places at reasonable prices vanish as early as spring.

For lovers of urban elegance, the historic Hotel Fesch & Spa is a great choice. It sits right in the city centre just a short walk from the famous museum and boasts a beautiful rooftop pool with breathtaking panoramic views over the whole bay. If, on the other hand, you long for romance by the murmuring sea, take a closer look at Hotel Les Mouettes. It’s a gorgeous 19th-century villa with its own private beach and a heated pool, where you’ll feel like you’re in a genuine Mediterranean paradise. Prices per night in a double room at these better hotels run around €180 to €250 during the peak summer season.

11 Things to Do in Ajaccio, Corsica

Let’s now take a look together at the specific places you definitely shouldn’t miss when visiting the Corsican capital. Ajaccio is wonderful to explore on foot, the historic centre is fairly compact, and you can comfortably tackle the biggest draws over one or two days. Prepare yourself for the fact that the name Napoleon will pop up absolutely everywhere, from street names to statues to souvenir shops.

1. Napoleon Bonaparte’s Birthplace (Maison Bonaparte)

This is an absolute must for every visitor to the city and the place where the future French emperor was actually born in 1769. The house sits on the inconspicuous and very narrow Rue Saint-Charles, which may even surprise you with its unexpected modesty. The Bonaparte family owned this sprawling property from the late 15th century and lived here on and off until 1923, when the historic building was ceremonially handed over to the state. From the outside the house looks very unassuming, but inside a fascinating excursion into rich European history awaits you.

During the tour you’ll pass through beautifully furnished rooms where you’ll see original 18th-century period furniture, historic weapons and all sorts of family portraits. There’s even a small, plain little room where the young Napoleon reportedly spent much of his Corsican childhood. The exhibition is brilliantly put together and brings to life not only the life of the commander himself but also the incredible fates of his many siblings, who later became kings and princes across Europe. You’ll get a wonderful, detailed glimpse into the everyday life of the island nobility of the time.

💡 TIP: In the summer months, definitely buy your tickets online in advance. The historic house’s capacity is strictly limited to protect the monument, and the queues in the narrow street can be truly exhausting in the afternoon heat. Basic admission costs around €7 and the whole tour takes roughly an hour of very pleasant time.

2. Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption (Cathédrale d’Ajaccio)

Just a few steps from the Bonaparte family home you’ll come across the city’s main cathedral, which is absolutely impossible to miss on its small square. That’s down to its bright ochre façade, which contrasts beautifully with the deep blue Mediterranean sky on sunny days. This Renaissance building from the late 16th century is the place where the infant Napoleon was baptised. Right by the main entrance you’ll still find the original marble font where this historic moment, so important for France, took place.

The interior of the church isn’t as overwhelming and vast as the famous French cathedrals on the mainland, but it has its own beautiful and very intimate atmosphere. This is enhanced by striking wall frescoes, massive columns and richly decorated side chapels. The cathedral is dedicated to the city’s patron, Our Lady of Mercy, to whom the local residents still pray with great reverence for protection. Note also the beautiful historic organ and the majestic altar of pure white marble, which was once laboriously brought here from Lucca in Italy.

💡 TIP: Entry to the cathedral is completely free, and it’s also an ideal spot for a short rest while exploring the city. The rough stone walls provide wonderful, much-sought-after shade where you can duck out of the sharp Corsican sun for a while.

3. Musée Fesch and Stunning Italian Painting

If you love classical art and history, this museum will absolutely knock your socks off and is one you definitely mustn’t skip when visiting the Corsican capital. It was founded by Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon’s uncle on his mother’s side and an utterly passionate collector of works of art. Over his busy and influential life he amassed an incredible 16,000 paintings and valuable historic artefacts. Today the museum holds the second most significant and largest collection of Italian masters in all of France, after the famous Louvre in Paris.

As you wander the air-conditioned and very spacious halls, you’ll come across original canvases by Botticelli, Titian and Bellini. Seeing works by such Renaissance masters on a relatively small island in the Mediterranean is an enormous and very unexpected cultural experience. Besides the rare Italian works, you’ll also find a large collection of local Corsican art and a vast historic library with tens of thousands of rare volumes. The museum’s main courtyard, meanwhile, is presided over by a large bronze statue of the proud founder himself.

💡 TIP: In the right wing of the building is the Chapelle Impériale (Imperial Chapel), which still serves as the main family crypt of the Bonaparte dynasty. The museum ticket, which costs around €8, also covers entry to this gorgeous neo-Renaissance chapel, where Cardinal Fesch himself is buried.

4. The Old Town and Life on Place Foch

The heart of historic Ajaccio is the picturesque Place Foch, which locals often affectionately call simply the Square of Palms (Place des Palmiers). The square is lined on all sides with tall, shady palm trees and plenty of cosy cafés with sprawling outdoor terraces. Its main landmark is a huge marble statue of Napoleon clad in an ancient Roman toga, proudly surrounded by four lions. It’s an absolutely ideal spot to sit down with an iced coffee and simply watch the city’s lively buzz for hours.

Straight from the square spreads a dense network of the old town’s narrow streets, full of tall pastel-coloured houses with traditional shutters. Here you’ll find dozens of small boutiques, family bakeries and intriguing craft workshops. Lose yourself for a while in favourite lanes like Rue du Roi de Rome and admire the typical Mediterranean architecture, which clearly betrays a strong Italian and Genoese influence from past centuries. In the evening these charming streets fill with locals and tourists alike, and the atmosphere is incredibly relaxed.

💡 TIP: Pop into one of the tucked-away little cafés and order something sweet with your afternoon coffee. The local café owners are very friendly and will happily give you tips on where to head for a good vegetarian dinner, whether you fancy proper Italian pizza or excellent pasta.

5. The Local Market and Old Harbour (Marché d’Ajaccio)

Right next to Place Foch, a renowned local market takes place every morning (except Mondays) and is an absolute paradise for all lovers of good, quality food. You’ll find dozens of small stalls that literally overflow with fresh local produce, and the whole space smells incredible with maquis herbs, ripe cheeses and freshly baked crusty bread. It’s exactly the kind of authentic place where local grandmothers and the chefs from the best Corsican restaurants buy their ingredients, and where you’ll experience that genuine island atmosphere.

I definitely recommend trying the local Brocciu cheese, an incredibly delicate sheep’s or goat’s cheese with a texture very similar to Italian ricotta. This excellent cheese forms the absolute foundation of many Corsican vegetarian specialities. Also delicious are the traditional beignets (hot fried doughnuts) filled with this very cheese, which fill you up perfectly. Don’t forget to sample the various cakes and biscuits made from chestnut flour (farine de châtaigne), which is utterly typical of this rugged island. At the back of the market you’ll then find stalls where local fishermen sell their morning catch from the surrounding bays.

💡 TIP: Get up early and head to the market ideally around eight in the morning, when the selection of fresh cheeses and fragrant bread is at its absolute best. You’ll also very elegantly dodge the biggest tourist crowds, who usually pour in around ten o’clock.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to stay in Ajaccio

3 accommodations — hotels and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏨 Hotel

Hotel Fesch & Spa

Historic hotel in the city center just steps away from the famous museum. Features a stunning rooftop pool with breathtaking panoramic views of the entire bay. Ideal for lovers of urban elegance.

★★★★ 180-250 EUR/night

Check availability 🏖️ Beach

Hotel Les Mouettes

Beautiful 19th-century villa with its own private beach and heated pool by the murmuring sea. You’ll feel like you’re in a true Mediterranean paradise. Ideal for romantic stays.

★★★★ 180-250 EUR/night

Check availability 🔍 Search

View all accommodations in Ajaccio

Explore all available accommodation options in Ajaccio and find the best one according to your preferences and budget.

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6. Pointe de la Parata and the Majestic Tower

About 12 kilometres west of central Ajaccio lies the dramatic rocky headland of Pointe de la Parata, which is most certainly one of the most photographed spots in the wider area. At the very top of this steep granite cliff stands an old Genoese watchtower from the 16th century, proudly withstanding the strong winds. In the past it served as an important strategic point for defending the Corsican coast against unexpected pirate raids. The path to the tower is very well maintained these days and offers absolutely breathtaking views over the churning deep blue sea.

The whole area around this majestic cape is a strictly protected nature reserve, where you can fully enjoy the genuine scent of the wild island. You’ll find several short walking trails here that safely guide you through the typical Corsican maquis scrubland, which constantly smells of wild thyme, myrtle and rosemary. You can set out on a very pleasant loop walk around the entire peninsula, which takes roughly an hour of relaxed walking and is absolutely suitable even for families with small children, since the elevation gain here is truly minimal.

💡 TIP: There’s a large, spacious paid car park on site, where you’ll usually park without any trouble. Right next to it you’ll also find a modern visitor centre with a small, cosy café, where you can buy chilled drinks before the climb up to the historic tower.

7. The Sanguinaires Islands (Îles Sanguinaires) and a Magical Sunset

Directly opposite the Parata cape lies the legendary archipelago of four small rocky islets that rise straight out of the sea. They’re called the Sanguinaires Islands (Îles Sanguinaires) and to this day they remain one of Corsica’s main tourist symbols. Their eerie name fortunately doesn’t come from any bloody historical battle, but refers solely to the deep red colour of the porphyry rocks. These light up magically every evening when the last fading rays of the setting sun fall upon them, creating a natural spectacle you’ll remember for a very long time.

The best way to explore these deserted islands up close is to take an organised boat trip directly from the main harbour in Ajaccio. I recommend easily booking these popular cruises online via GetYourGuide, which saves you from needless haggling with vendors on the spot. The trips often include a short walking stop on the largest island, Mezzu Mare, where you can stroll at leisure to the ruins of an old lazaret and the tall lighthouse, from which there’s a wonderful 360-degree view over the open sea.

💡 TIP: The most popular trips of all are naturally the evening cruises paired with a little tasting. To go with the fantastic sunset over the sea, you’ll usually get a tasting of good Corsican wine or the locally beloved Pietra beer, which is traditionally brewed on the island with a touch of local chestnuts.

8. Relaxing on the Beaches Along the Route des Sanguinaires

If you want a bit of a rest after a demanding round of sights and air-conditioned museums, all you need to do is head out of the city centre along the coastal Route des Sanguinaires. This scenic route is literally lined with a string of beautiful, easily accessible beaches that beckon you in for an immediate swim. One of the absolute most popular is Plage de Marinella, which boasts very fine white sand and wonderfully clear turquoise water. The entry into the sea here is very shallow and the surface exceptionally calm, making it an ideal and safe spot. Just above the beach even stands the famous villa of the well-known French singer Tino Rossi.

A bit further along the same winding road you’ll come across Plage de Terre Sacrée, a very picturesque and photogenic cove dotted with enormous rounded granite boulders. They give it a far wilder and more exotic look that you’ll fall in love with instantly. The beach takes its noble name from a large stone monument dedicated to the fallen Corsican soldiers of the First World War. Most of these beaches offer modern beach clubs where you can rent comfortable loungers, but you’ll always find plenty of free space to spread out your own towel.

💡 TIP: In the summer months, a special bus line number 5 runs from central Ajaccio along the entire coast. It stops at all the main beaches and is an absolutely brilliant alternative if you’d rather not battle for an expensive free spot in the packed car parks during peak season.

9. Place d’Austerlitz and the Casone Grotto

A little away from the busy main historic centre you’ll find the huge and very spacious Place d’Austerlitz, reachable on a pleasant walk. This place is dominated by an absolutely monumental monument to Napoleon Bonaparte, which is visible from afar thanks to its sheer size. At the very top of a tall stone pyramid stands a majestic bronze statue of the emperor in his typical proud stance, hand firmly tucked into his coat. On the enormous sloping stone slabs beneath him are carved in detail the names of his most famous and greatest military victories, which reshaped the map of Europe at the time.

Right behind this imposing historic monument lies a mysterious spot called the Grotte du Casone, surrounded by lush greenery. It’s not actually a classic deep cave, but rather an enormous granite boulder forming a kind of small, shady rocky hideaway. According to a very popular local legend, the young Napoleon would come here to play in secret and, even in early childhood, would quietly spin his grand military plans for the future conquest of the entire world.

💡 TIP: Although this favourite tale of the playing commander may well be just a romantic story for tourists, the place has its own peculiar and very powerful historic charm. A walk to the monument along the shady, mature avenue is a very pleasant afternoon addition to your visit, where you can elegantly escape the worst of the traffic for a while.

10. A Scenic Ride on the Tourist Train

If your feet are properly aching after a full day of exploring, or you’re travelling with small children who simply don’t fancy walking in the heat, I have a great tip to save the day. A brilliant and very popular option for a quick, comfortable introduction to the city is a ride on the local tourist train (Petit Train d’Ajaccio). These charming little trains depart very regularly from the main square, Place Foch, and offer tourists two different interesting scenic routes. The first is a bit shorter, takes you through the old town’s narrow streets and shows you all the main historic sights connected to Napoleon.

The second, noticeably longer and far more scenic route, takes you out of the city along the entire coast as far as the Parata cape and the famous Sanguinaires Islands, so you’ll see the best of the surrounding nature. Throughout the journey you can comfortably enjoy the sea views and listen through headphones to an engaging audio guide packed with facts about the history, culture and Corsican nature. It’s a very pleasant and effortless way to get a basic overview of where everything is located in the city.

💡 TIP: A ticket for the longer loop to the cliffs costs an adult visitor roughly €12. The trains are very popular among tourists in the summer months, so I recommend arriving at the square a little early so you can comfortably grab the best seats by the edge with a good view.

11. Trips Inland (Corte and the Mountains)

Although Ajaccio’s sun-drenched coast with its sandy beaches is gorgeous, Corsica’s true rugged soul lies hidden deep inland, which you definitely shouldn’t skip. Roughly an hour and a half of winding driving from the capital brings you to the historic mountain town of Corte. It’s perfectly surrounded by sharp granite peaks and in the 18th century served, under the leadership of Pasquale Paoli, as the capital of the independent Corsican government. The town is crowned by an old stone citadel majestically perched on a steep rock, from where there’s an absolutely fantastic view into the surrounding deep green valleys full of chestnut forests. The island’s only university still operates here too.

From Corte you can then head into the stunning Restonica valley, through which a crystal-clear and very icy mountain river wildly flows. Along its course it forms gorgeous natural stone pools that are absolutely ideal for a quick summer dip. The narrow mountain road takes you all the way to a remote car park, from where you can set out on a more physically demanding trek to the mountain lakes of Melo and Capitello. It’s high in these mountains that you’ll fully grasp the incredible contrast between the elegant French coast and the utterly wild, untamed nature that rules Corsica.

💡 TIP: If you’re experienced mountaineers, you may be interested to know that the legendary GR20 trek runs not far from here. It crosses the island, measures 180 kilometres and involves an enormous 12,000 metres of elevation gain. Wild camping along it is strictly forbidden under heavy fines, and places in the mountain refuges must be booked well in advance.

Where to Go Next from Ajaccio

Corsica may be a fairly small island in terms of size, but because of its incredibly winding mountain roads, journeys here take far longer than you’d expect. If you have a car at your disposal, I recommend heading south to the town of Bonifacio, whose old quarter balances on huge white limestone cliffs dropping vertically into the sea. It’s a visually utterly stunning experience that seems to defy the laws of gravity. Beneath the mighty citadel you’ll also find the famous Aragonese Steps carved straight into the steep rock face, leading you all the way down to the sea.

The trip to the northwest coast is also beautiful, and you can read more about it in our article on the Calvi and Balagne region. There you’ll find a huge citadel towering over the sea, narrow cobbled streets and plenty of small mountain villages tucked away in the hills. If you’re planning to explore the whole island and are after comprehensive information about the GR20 trek, campsites or other hidden white-sand coves, definitely don’t miss our extensive guide to all of Corsica.

Frequently Asked Questions