The Estonian islands number more than two thousand pieces of land, but only a small handful of them are inhabited and accessible to curious travellers. When locals say they’re heading to the islands for the weekend, it means a perfect escape from civilization and time slowing down completely. The air here smells of the sea and juniper, and the mobile signal mercifully disappears every now and then.
But this Nordic romance comes with one enormous catch that ordinary guidebooks often keep quiet about. For roughly half the year the main Estonian islands are practically closed and all tourist life freezes over completely. If you plan your trip well for the warm summer season, though, an absolutely breathtaking experience awaits you.
So what can you expect on these islands? I’ll let you in on how best to get there, why you can’t move around without a car, and what you really need to watch out for.
TL;DR
- How many islands to visit: Estonia has thousands, but for travelling focus mainly on the big four: Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Muhu and Kihnu.
- Which island for whom: Saaremaa is ideal for lovers of spas and castles, Hiiumaa lures you in with wild nature and lighthouses, Muhu offers luxurious relaxation, and Kihnu boasts a truly unique matriarchal culture.
- How to get there: The main transport artery is the ferries run by Praamid, and you’ll reach the largest island of Saaremaa comfortably via a causeway across the smaller island of Muhu.
- How many days you need: Two or three days are enough for a quick taste, but for a truly relaxed loop count on five to seven days.
- When to go: The best time is from late May to September, when everything runs smoothly and the Nordic nature is at its most beautiful.
- Why you need a car: Buses run very rarely and without your own or a rented car you simply won’t reach the remote cliffs and lighthouses.
- ⚠️ Beware of seasonality: From November to April, a large part of the accommodation, renowned restaurants and sights on the islands is completely closed.
How to Get to the Estonian Islands
Travel forums confirm it over and over: the biggest mistake you can make on the Estonian islands is relying on public transport. You really can’t get by here without a car. Buses run pretty rarely and trying to piece together a sensible itinerary with them is more of a punishment. There are comfortable direct lines from Tallinn to the island capital of Kuressaare, but once you step off at the bus station, getting to the cliffs and out-of-the-way villages is very hard. So you have two options: either set off from the mainland in your own car, or rent one right after you arrive.
The main artery to the islands are the modern ferries of the state company Praamid. From the mainland port of Virtsu you’ll sail to the port of Kuivastu on the island of Muhu. From there you’ll cross to the main island of Saaremaa along a long causeway, which is a great experience in itself. The crossing itself takes just 27 minutes and flies by. The second main line connects the mainland port of Rohuküla with the port of Heltermaa on the island of Hiiumaa, and the trip takes about 75 minutes.
Transport prices are quite friendly, but in the summer season it’s better to book your tickets on praamid.ee even a week in advance. For a car on the Virtsu–Kuivastu route you’ll pay roughly €12 and €4 for each passenger. The system works surprisingly cleverly. A camera at the port reads your licence plate and the barrier into the priority lane lifts on its own. No waiting at the counter, no paper ticket. Between Saaremaa and Hiiumaa there’s a local ferry line Triigi–Sõru, which is ideal for longer road trips.
There’s also an air connection, but it’s used mostly by local businesspeople. Small planes fly from Tallinn to Kuressaare, the flight takes just under an hour and saves a lot of time. Even so, at the tiny island airport you’ll have to rent a car to move around freely.
⚠️ Seasonality: When the Islands Are Alive and When They Sleep
This is absolutely the most important information in the whole guide and you must not underestimate it. From November to April, a large part of the accommodation, restaurants and attractions is closed. The Estonian islands simply go into a deep winter sleep for half the year. Smaller guesthouses and cafés outside the capital of Kuressaare don’t function at all and the island rhythm slows to an absolute minimum.
The peak season is June to August, and you can tell. Everything is open, festivals are running and the days are so long that at ten in the evening you wonder why it’s still light. Even in high season, though, be prepared for the slow island rhythm, because shops and cafés commonly open only at nine in the morning. If you’re looking for a compromise between good weather and lower prices, try heading out in September.
A winter visit only makes sense for true adventurers and lovers of extreme experiences. In the biting frost, the famous ice roads open across the sea, and the longest of them measures 26.5 kilometres and connects the mainland with the island of Hiiumaa. It’s the longest ice road in Europe, but it has very strict rules. You’re not allowed to fasten your seatbelt and your speed must not stay between 25 and 40 kilometres per hour, so that resonance doesn’t break the ice. Travellers warn, however, that in mild winters these roads don’t open at all.
12 Places You Can’t Miss on the Estonian Islands
Each of the islands has its own unique character. While on Saaremaa you’ll be meeting spa guests and admiring medieval architecture, Hiiumaa will absorb you with its endless forests and silence.
I’ve picked out twelve spots for you that perfectly illustrate all that Nordic variety. You can explore them during one long road trip, or choose just a few that catch your eye the most.
1. The Bishop’s Castle in Kuressaare (Saaremaa)
The landmark of the whole island of Saaremaa is the utterly stunning Bishop’s Castle from the fourteenth century. In the capital of Kuressaare, the only completely preserved medieval fortress in all of the Baltics awaits you, surrounded by a mighty moat and a sprawling park where you can wander aimlessly to your heart’s content.
Inside the fortress there’s an extensive history museum that walks you through the island’s history from prehistory to the twentieth century. The exhibitions are very modern and interactive, so it’s definitely not some boring tour of dusty display cases. Entry to the museum costs roughly €12 and it’s open all year round, though with limited opening hours in winter.
Set aside a good two or three hours to explore the whole castle complex. Locals recommend climbing all the way to the top of the main tower, from where there’s a fantastic view over the whole town and the adjacent bay.
💡 Tip: If you’re heading here at the end of July, expect enormous crowds. The castle courtyard hosts a famous opera festival that reliably sells out every hotel for miles around.
2. The Spa Centre of Kuressaare (Saaremaa)
Once you’re in Kuressaare, it would be a huge mistake not to try the local famous spas. The spa tradition here goes all the way back to 1824, when the healing properties of the local sea mud started to be used. Today the town boasts one world record. According to available information, it has the highest concentration of spa beds per inhabitant in the entire world.
Crowds of Finns and Estonians regularly flock to Kuressaare for top-notch wellness relaxation. Most modern spa hotels offer treatments with the local dolomite mud, which is said to work wonders for aching joints and softens the skin. You don’t have to buy an expensive stay package right away — plenty of hotels let anyone in for a one-off entry to the pool and saunas for perfectly reasonable money.
The whole town feels incredibly picturesque and neat. In the streets you’ll find plenty of cafés and excellent vegetarian bistros, where you can rest after a hot sauna. Bear in mind that for a proper spa relaxation you need to set aside at least one whole afternoon.
💡 Tip: Try a traditional mud wrap. You’ll look like you fell into a swamp, but afterwards your skin is said to be incredibly soft and rested.
3. The Kaali Meteorite Crater (Saaremaa)
Roughly twenty kilometres from Kuressaare hides one of the greatest natural mysteries in all of Europe. The Kaali crater was formed by a meteorite impact about three and a half thousand years ago and it’s often nicknamed the Estonian Tunguska. The main crater has an impressive diameter of 110 metres and at its very bottom sits a dark green pool that feels almost mystical.
The whole place radiates an incredibly strong pagan atmosphere. In ancient times the pool probably served as an important sacrificial site and to this day locals hold enormous respect for it. Around the main crater there are eight smaller satellite craters that you can explore during a short walk through the forest.
Access to the crater itself is completely free and you reach it along a comfortable path. Right by the car park there’s a small and very interesting meteoritics museum, where for a small fee you’ll learn everything about the history of this cosmic collision. The visit won’t take you more than an hour, so it combines perfectly with a drive across the island.
💡 Tip: Stop by the local souvenir shop — they sell beautiful juniper wood products that smell wonderful.
4. The Panga Cliffs (Saaremaa)
If you’re looking for the best spot to watch the sunset, head to the northern coast of Saaremaa. The Panga cliffs are the highest coastal cliffs in all of western Estonia and reach an impressive height of over twenty metres. The rocks drop steeply straight into the churning waters of the Baltic Sea and offer absolutely fantastic views.
A pleasant hiking trail runs along the cliffs, winding through a pine forest. At the very edge of the cliff stands an old dolomite sunshade that serves as a popular photo point for all travellers. In ancient times locals reportedly offered gifts to the sea from these cliffs to secure a good catch and the favour of the gods.
You’ll get here by car without any problems and parking is free, which is a pleasant surprise for such a beautiful place. In season there’s a kiosk with coffee and snacks here; off-season, bring your own supplies. An hour and a half will be plenty for a walk along the cliffs and taking a heap of photos.
💡 Tip: Pack a warmer jacket or jumper even in the height of summer. A sharp, cold wind very often blows in from the sea here.
5. The Angla Windmills (Saaremaa)
When you think of the Estonian countryside, most people picture wooden windmills. The complex of five historic mills in the village of Angla is the best-preserved group of these structures on the whole island. In the past a similar mill stood in almost every larger village, but only a fraction of them have survived to this day.
Four of these mills are built in the typical island style and can be turned to face the wind. One mill, however, is a Dutch type and is noticeably larger. The great thing is that you can peek inside most of them and look at the preserved wooden gears that once ground flour for the whole surrounding area.
The grounds also have a large cultural centre where you can try out traditional crafts. Entry to the whole complex costs around €8 and the visit will especially delight families with children.
💡 Tip: The cultural centre makes fantastic homemade sourdough bread. Definitely buy a loaf for the road — it tastes absolutely divine.
6. Vilsandi National Park and the Seals (Saaremaa)
At the very western edge of Saaremaa lies Vilsandi National Park, a veritable paradise for lovers of wild nature. The park is made up of more than one hundred and fifty small islets and shallow bays that provide refuge for thousands of seabirds. Nature here is left entirely to its own devices and human interventions are absolutely minimal.
The main draw of Vilsandi is something else entirely, though. The park is home to the largest colony of grey seals in all of Estonia. These magnificent marine mammals lounge lazily on exposed rocks and soak up the rare rays of sun. Watching them loll about on the stones and squint into the sun is exactly the kind of sight people travel to the ends of the earth for.
The best way to get close to the seals is to head out on an organized seal safari. Local agencies organize trips on small boats that take you to a safe distance from the animals. The ballpark price for such a trip is around €135 per adult and in the summer season the spots tend to sell out very quickly. The trip usually takes the whole morning.
💡 Tip: Don’t forget to bring a good pair of binoculars and a telephoto lens for your camera. The boats aren’t allowed to get right up close to the seals so as not to startle them.
7. The Fishing Village of Koguva (Muhu)
When you arrive on the island of Muhu by ferry, definitely don’t just blindly drive through it. The traditional fishing village of Koguva basically functions as a living open-air museum and ranks among the most beautiful places in all of Estonia. As soon as you step in, the asphalt, tourist signs and wifi suddenly vanish. All that’s left are stone walls overgrown with moss and silence broken only by the wind.
The village is famous for its stone walls, densely overgrown with moss and lining the winding dusty lanes. Most of the old farmsteads boast honest thatched roofs and some of them are still inhabited by locals today. Part of the village functions as a museum where you can look at traditional island costumes and old fishing gear.
The atmosphere here is incredibly quiet and peaceful. Travellers highly praise the little local cafés, which make great coffee and sell traditional island pastries. A walk through the village and a visit to the museum will take you about two hours, and entry to the museum part costs a symbolic few euros.
💡 Tip: Respect the privacy of local residents. Some yards look like part of the museum, but they’re actually private gardens.
8. The Luxurious Pädaste Manor (Muhu)
If you’re after absolute luxury and don’t worry about a tight budget, the island of Muhu has one huge draw for you. The renovated Pädaste Manor from the sixteenth century is considered the most luxurious country hotel in Estonia. It’s even a proud member of the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World network and a demanding clientele from all over Europe flocks here.
The manor grounds sit right on the seashore and are surrounded by a beautiful, well-kept park. Here you’ll find the renowned restaurant Alexander, which regularly ranks among the top of Estonian gastronomy. They specialize in so-called Nordic island cuisine. They’ll offer you game, fish and local herbs from their own gardens. As a vegetarian you won’t be short-changed here either — the meat-free tasting menus are top-notch.
It’s a very expensive experience, though. Prices for a night at this manor start at €161 off-season and in the summer months they climb steeply. If you don’t want to stay here, you can at least make a lunch reservation and stroll through the beautiful gardens.
💡 Tip: They have their own luxury spa here, where they offer an unusual hay bath based on old local traditions.
9. The Kõpu Lighthouse (Hiiumaa)
The island of Hiiumaa is noticeably wilder and calmer than neighbouring Saaremaa. Its absolute symbol is the majestic Kõpu lighthouse, which stands on the highest hill of the island. This architectural gem has been lighting the way for sailors continuously since 1531 and ranks among the oldest continuously working lighthouses in the world.
The structure looks nothing like the slender white lighthouses from the movies — it has the shape of an enormous square tower with massive buttresses and looks more like an impregnable fortress that you scramble up to the viewing platform via a very steep, narrow staircase. It’ll reliably test your fitness.
The view from the top, though, is worth every drop of sweat. From up there you’ll see the endless dense forests that cover most of Hiiumaa. Entry to the lighthouse costs around €5 and at the base of the tower you’ll find a pleasant little café. Set aside at least an hour for the visit.
💡 Tip: The stairs inside are really steep and tall. Don’t wear flip-flops here — sturdy shoes are an absolute necessity for the climb.
10. Kihnu: Estonia’s Island of Women
The island of Kihnu is an absolute European rarity and is often spoken of as the last matriarchy in Europe — Estonia’s very own island of women. Its cultural space is even inscribed on the UNESCO list of intangible heritage. The historical reason is simple: the island’s men would sail off to sea for long months, so the women had to take absolute control of the entire community.
A very specific atmosphere still reigns here to this day. You’ll commonly come across local women in traditional striped skirts zooming along the dusty roads on old motorbikes with sidecars. The colour of the stripes on their skirts carries deep meaning and signals whether a woman is in mourning or rejoicing.
You reach the island by ferry from the port of Munalaid near Pärnu. Kihnu is best explored by bike, which you can rent right at the port. It’s an ideal destination for a full-day trip, during which you can visit the local museum, the lighthouse and the old little church.
💡 Tip: In summer the ferries to Kihnu tend to be fully booked. Definitely buy your tickets, and one for your bike, well in advance online.
11. The White Tahkuna Lighthouse (Hiiumaa)
Besides the famous Kõpu, Hiiumaa has one more beautiful lighthouse you shouldn’t miss. The elegant white Tahkuna lighthouse stands on the very northern tip of the island and, at over forty metres tall, it’s the highest cast-iron lighthouse in all of Estonia. It was made in France and brought to the island in parts in 1875.
The surroundings of the lighthouse are very wild and lashed by strong winds off the open sea. Right nearby, extensive remains of old Soviet bunkers hide in the forest, which you can freely clamber through. These military relics lend the place a slightly gloomy but immensely fascinating atmosphere.
In season you can also climb the lighthouse itself, which offers a great view of the churning Baltic. At the foot of the lighthouse stands a very emotional memorial to the victims of the ferry Estonia, whose sinking in 1994 ranks among the greatest maritime tragedies of modern history. A visit to this tip of the island takes about two hours.
💡 Tip: If you’re planning to clamber through the nearby bunkers, definitely bring a strong torch. Inside it’s pitch dark and the floor tends to be full of rubble.
12. The Island of Vormsi and the Swedish Trace
If you have time to spare and you’re looking for an absolute escape from all civilization, consider a visit to the fourth-largest island, Vormsi. This island is fascinating for its strong Swedish history, because until the Second World War a strong community of coastal Swedes lived here. This is still reflected in the names of the local villages, which sound utterly different from the rest of Estonia.
The island’s main and truly unique rarity is the cemetery by the old church of St. Olaf. Here you’ll find the largest collection of unique circular gravestone crosses in the world, known as sun crosses. These stone crosses date from the thirteenth century and feel incredibly mystical.
You reach Vormsi by ferry from the port of Rohuküla and the crossing takes just under an hour. Absolute calm and minimal traffic reign on the island, so it’s another great place for cycling. One day will be plenty to explore the most important sights.
💡 Tip: Outside the summer season only an absolute minimum of services operates here. Definitely pack plenty of your own food and drink.
Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Muhu or Kihnu: Which Island to Choose
If you don’t have time to explore all the islands, you’ll have to choose. Each of them has a completely different character and suits a different type of traveller. Here’s a clear comparison to make that tough decision easier:
| Island | What it’s known for | Ideal for | How many days | How to get there |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| :— | :— | :— | :— | :— |
| Saaremaa | Medieval castle, spas, meteorite crater, Panga cliffs. | Families, lovers of spas and history who want good services. | 3 to 4 days | By car and the Virtsu–Kuivastu ferry (via Muhu and the causeway). |
| Hiiumaa | Old lighthouses, wild nature, empty beaches, island humour. | Lovers of nature and calm who enjoy discovering abandoned spots. | 2 to 3 days | By car and the Rohuküla–Heltermaa ferry (from the mainland). |
| Muhu | Traditional thatched roofs in Koguva, the luxurious Pädaste Manor. | Romantics, foodies and those just passing through the island. | 1 day | By car and the Virtsu–Kuivastu ferry (it lies right by the port). |
| Kihnu | UNESCO, women on motorbikes in striped skirts, cycling. | Folklore enthusiasts and day-trip cyclists. | 1 day (without an overnight stay) | Passenger ferry from the port of Munalaid (without a car). |
How Many Days to Set Aside for the Islands
Definitely drop the idea that you’ll manage the whole Estonian coast in one long weekend. The geographical distances and the time spent on ferries require more careful planning.
For a quick taste over 2 to 3 days, the classic loop around the south is a good bet. From Tallinn you drive to the port of Virtsu and take the ferry to the island of Muhu. There you have lunch and look around the village of Koguva. Then you cross the causeway to Kuressaare on Saaremaa, where you spend the night. The next day you explore the castle, the Kaali crater and the Panga cliffs. The third day is a relaxed return to the mainland.
An island loop of 5 to 7 days already lets you slow down properly. Set aside three days for Muhu and Saaremaa, where you’ll visit the windmills and the seals in Vilsandi. Then you cross by local ferry from the port of Triigi to Sõru on the island of Hiiumaa. There you’ll spend two days clambering around old lighthouses and enjoying the empty beaches. You return to the mainland by ferry to the port of Rohuküla.
Kihnu then works best as an interesting day trip if you happen to be spending time on the famous beaches in the town of Pärnu.
Where to Stay on the Islands
💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We prefer to look for accommodation on Booking.com, where the cancellation terms tend to be the best. Tickets, tours and activities are then worth comparing and buying through GetYourGuide.
The choice of accommodation on the islands is fairly wide, but I’ll repeat once more that outside the summer season the offer is extremely limited. Most of the smaller rural guesthouses shut their doors and you’ll only find certainty in the larger towns. Booking or Airbnb work reliably, but in summer really don’t wait around — the good spots on Saaremaa disappear a month in advance.
Here are some specific tips for tried-and-tested, renowned places to rest your head:
- Pädaste Manor (Muhu): The absolute pinnacle of Estonian luxury. This historic residence offers top-notch service, a renowned restaurant and beautiful gardens. The price is very high, but the experience matches a world-class league.
- GOSPA (Georg Ots Spa Hotel) (Kuressaare): One of the best family spa hotels on Saaremaa. They have great pools, modern rooms with a view of the castle and excellent breakfasts.
- Grand Rose Spa Hotel (Kuressaare): This hotel is famous for its romantic style, full of rose motifs. It has a fantastic sauna centre and couples highly recommend it for weekend getaways.
- Spa Hotel Meri (Kuressaare): A pleasant and somewhat more affordable spa hotel that sits right on the seaside promenade. It offers a large pool and plenty of options for classic treatments with the local mud.
Where to Eat Well
Estonian island gastronomy is a chapter all of its own. Local chefs bet on fresh ingredients from the sea, forest berries and herbs, so the food here tastes absolutely fantastic. I’ve put together a few tips you definitely shouldn’t miss.
Saaremaa Veski (Kuressaare)
This restaurant is housed in a historic windmill and offers the real island experience. Definitely try the renowned homemade cheese with juniper or roasted root vegetables from local farms. A traditional island classic here is the fish soup, which most guests come for.
Roograhu (Hiiumaa)
A hidden gem by a small harbour where they make the best pizza for miles around. Yes, it sounds strange, but believe me, locals drive here for it from the other end of the island. On top of that they have excellent local beer and an absolutely magical view of the moored boats.
Where to Go Next
- Estonia: 25 Tips on What to See and Do
- When to Go to Estonia: Weather Month by Month
- Tallinn: 20 Tips on What to See and Do in the Estonian Capital
Frequently Asked Questions
Before you start packing your bags, let’s sum up the most essential practical information. Sooner or later these questions will pop into your head while planning your trip.
I’ve prepared a quick overview of the most important things, so you can avoid nasty surprises and enjoy your trip to the fullest.
How do I get to Saaremaa?
You can reach Saaremaa island by ferry operated by Praamid from the mainland port of Virtsu. The ferry takes you to Kuivastu port on Muhu island, from where you simply cross over to Saaremaa via a paved causeway.
How much does the ferry to the islands cost?
The approximate price for a one-way trip for a passenger car is €12 to €14, depending on the route. On top of that, you need to add around €4 per passenger in the vehicle. Weekend trips in summer come with a surcharge.
Do I need a car on the islands?
Yes, you practically can’t do without a car. Bus connections between the island villages are very poor, and you simply won’t reach most natural attractions, cliffs, and lighthouses by public transport.
When should I visit the Estonian islands?
The best time to visit is from late May to mid-September. During this period the weather is more stable, the days are long, and most importantly, all monuments, restaurants, and hotels are open.
Are the islands open in winter?
Most tourist services are closed from November to April. Only the larger spa hotels in Kuressaare and a handful of year-round shops remain open. The islands in winter are more suited to lovers of absolute tranquility and rugged nature.
How many days are enough for a visit?
For a quick taste of the best of Saaremaa, 2 to 3 days will be enough. However, if you want to add the wilder island of Hiiumaa and avoid stress, set aside 5 to 7 days for the circuit.
Which island is the best?
It’s impossible to say which one is best, because each offers something different. Saaremaa is perfect for castle and spa lovers, Hiiumaa attracts with its wild coast and lighthouses, and Kihnu is great for discovering unique local traditions.
What to see on Saaremaa?
Don’t miss the imposing episcopal castle in Kuressaare, the mystical Kaali meteorite crater, and the windmills in Angla village. The high Panga cliffs on the island’s northern coast are also worth seeing.
Can I visit Kihnu just for one day?
Yes, Kihnu island is ideal for a one-day bike trip. The ferry from Munalaid port gets you there in no time, you can leave your car on the mainland, and you can comfortably cycle around the small island on a rented bike in just a few hours.
Do people drive on ice in Estonia?
Yes, during very harsh winters, official ice roads open across the frozen sea. The most famous one leads to Hiiumaa island and stretches over 26 kilometers. In mild winters, however, they don’t open at all, and very strict safety rules apply.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
