What Camping in Hawaii Is Really Like (and How Much It Costs)

TL;DRCamping on Maui costs around $17–$38 a night, and a full two-week trip worked out at $1,200 per person, on a budget of $65 a day. Options include Waianapanapa by its black-sand beach, Kipahulu and Hosmer Grove in Haleakala National Park, and a campsite right inside the Haleakala volcano crater (Paliku), reached after a 21km hike, plus Polipoli, Papalua Beach Park and Olowalu. Facilities vary hugely — from waterless pit toilets to showers, wi-fi and even free coffee and fruit at Olowalu. A travel agent would charge around $2,000 or more for a comparable week in Hawaii.

We set off for two weeks in a paradise in the middle of the ocean — the Hawaiian island of Maui. I’m not sure exactly when the idea of camping in Hawaii first came up, but the more we prepared for it, the more we couldn’t wait. Sleeping in beachside campgrounds, or in the crater of Haleakalā, felt like something exotic we’d never done before. So let’s take a look at what camping in Hawaii is actually like — and how much it cost us.

How much does camping in Hawaii cost

On top of that, it would help us save money we’d need for our three-month road trip across North America. Hawaii is one of the most expensive places you can travel to, and even a campsite will set you back roughly £15–35 per night. And prices just keep climbing.

The problem with staying in hotels or Airbnbs was that the comfort of daily wifi, a kitchen and breakfast would probably mean we’d only head out to explore Hawaii around nine or ten in the morning. That’s late by Hawaiian standards, because it gets dark here by 7pm.

We went to bed around eight or nine and woke up at half past five in the morning. We made deliberate trips for wifi and handled work that would normally take us a whole day in just a few hours. Our last campsite even had wifi, so after dinner we’d regularly pop online for two or three hours to work.

In the end we booked the first two nights in an Airbnb in Haiku, because we arrived late at night and the campsite near the main town of Kahului was closed.

Heading to Hawaii? Grab the guidebook we used

How much our two weeks in Hawaii cost in total

Two weeks in Hawaii cost us around £1,030 per person (a package holiday through a travel agency would run you upwards of £1,900 for just ONE week).

On top of that, a birthday present for Lukáš — a trip to the island of Lanai, snorkelling for two for $181.

Take a look at how we’re doing financially on our 3-month trip –> here

The cost of food in Hawaii

At the start we did a big shop for two weeks of camping. We knew that on most days there’d be nowhere to buy ingredients, and at the same time Hawaii has a steady daytime temperature of 29°C and 22°C at night, which meant we couldn’t really buy anything too fresh.

This was the backbone of our meals. It turned out that buying in bulk was a mistake, because although the Tikka Masala and the soups were organic with nothing dodgy in them (no additives or preservatives), by the second week we couldn’t stand the sight of them.

Now and then we’d buy some fruit from roadside stalls, or pop into Foodland (a supermarket) for sushi or sandwiches. A couple of times we treated ourselves to food like the locals from the food trucks, and we also played tourist and went to a restaurant. Our weakness was cold drinks — we caved to those more often during the second week on the warmer side of the island. So if you want to do it on a tighter budget, you absolutely can. We had a budget of $65 a day, which also had to cover accommodation we hadn’t paid for in advance, petrol and food.

Campgrounds in Hawaii: where to camp

We’re used to the spotless, well-kept campgrounds of the Canadian Rockies, so the run-down state of many in Hawaii often caught us off guard. We tried every site available to individual campers.

Waianapanapa

2 nights, flushing toilets, showers, drinking water, no signal, cabins available to rent

A campsite near Hana. It’s a 3-hour drive from Haiku with a few short stops along the famous “Road to Hana”, which is said to be the most beautiful drive in Hawaii. “It’s a mess here,” — the jungle didn’t exactly impress Lukáš. It sits on the eastern part of the island, where it rains all year round. So you’ll drive through jungle, where you can hop out and hike to waterfalls you can swim in. Everywhere is mud, damp, bamboo and coconuts.

Waianapanapa is one of the better campgrounds — there are toilets, outdoor showers and a source of drinking water. You’re right above the black sand beach and at the start of the Kings Trail – Pi’ilani Trail, which runs along the cliffs. If you go, set out early in the morning, as you walk in full sun the whole way.

If you decide on Waianapanapa, our advice is: cook early. It rains there every night, and we were there in the dry season when it’s supposed to rain least.

Kipahulu

1 night, pit-toilet style loos, drinking water at the visitor centre (which also has proper toilets), signal poor but present

From Waianapanapa you can carry on along a far rougher road to Kipahulu, which lies inside Haleakalā National Park. Although the guidebook said we’d be completely without signal here, paradoxically there was some. At first we got a bit spooked, because there’s literally nothing at the campsite — just grass in the middle of nowhere — but after a bit of exploring we found a spot to camp not far from the main site, right on the cliff above the ocean. And the sunset more than made up for all our initial disappointment over the smelly outhouses and lack of anywhere to wash, because swimming in the ocean isn’t recommended here and we couldn’t even find a way in.

From here you can do two hikes: Waimoku Falls and Seven Sacred Pools. We headed to the waterfalls — it rained the whole time, but it only took just under three hours. Then we had to sleep in the tent covered in mud.

Hosmer Grove

1 night, pit-toilet style loos, drinking water, signal available

From Kipahulu we took the loop route via Baldwin Beach near Kahului, where we had a swim and a shower. We recommend it — it’s well worth the stop. Hosmer Grove was the campsite where we nearly froze. It’s where most people sleep before hiking Haleakalā. The next day we set off on our longest hike inside the crater, where we’d also be camping, so it made sense to sleep here. There’s nothing else nearby anyway. Be prepared to be cold at night — the temperature can drop close to zero.

Otherwise it’s a nice little campsite with a shelter where you can cook when it rains.

Haleakalā crater

1 night, non-potable water, pit toilets, no signal

We walked 21 kilometres to the campsite in the crater at Palikū, where there’s also a cabin you can rent. Although after Hosmer Grove we’d braced ourselves for an insane cold, the morning was chilly but not freezing. By the cabin there’s a pit toilet, and when I walked in a swarm of flies launched at me, buzzing around my backside. The idea of just digging a little hole to do my business suddenly seemed far more appealing. There are strange birds called Nene wandering everywhere (they might not actually be ducks, but they look like them and make sounds like a cross between a cow and a duck).

Polipoli

1 night, non-potable water, pit toilet, weak signal

The last 3 miles to the campsite take 20 minutes to drive. The “road” is more one pothole after another than an actual road, and it vividly reminded us of our road trip through Romania. No wonder we were the only ones at the campsite. The pit toilet literally smelled of disuse. If we hadn’t booked the site in advance, we’d probably have turned around and driven off. On the way we came across wild pigs, which later wandered around our tent at night, grunting.

Papalua Beach Park

1 night, no water, well-kept pit toilet, signal available

This beachside campsite sits between Kihei and Lahaina on the west coast, where it’s mostly sunny year-round with only the occasional shower. The catch was that you can only book it either in Lahaina or by phone. We didn’t know about the first option and couldn’t get through on the phone.

The ranger didn’t kick us out — they just explained where to buy the permit.

Olowalu

Drinking water, hot showers, flushing toilets, power sockets, wifi, FREE morning coffee, FREE fruit growing in the campsite (mango, papaya, coconuts)

Camping at Olowalu Beach is the paradise of Hawaiian campgrounds. Not only do you have everything you need, there’s even wifi at the “reception”, and it rivals the cleanliness of campsites in Canada. The downside is that when the waves pick up, they close a large part of the campsite to avoid flooding. So to be safe, we recommend booking a pitch further from the water.

Where to wash when the campsite has no water

At Papalua Beach Park, Polipoli, the Haleakalā crater and Hosmer Grove, you won’t be able to wash. Apart from Haleakalā, that’s not a huge problem. Just drive to the nearest beach. That’s how we did it — heading to Baldwin Beach, and then from Papalua Beach Park we spent time on the beaches in Lahaina, so it wasn’t an issue. Feel awkward about it? You’ll see plenty of locals washing with shampoo and soap after a dip in the sea, so don’t worry and go for it. For the tougher moments when there’s nowhere to wash, bring some wet wipes.

Hiking on Maui

Hawaii is wonderfully diverse, so here you can experience hiking through the jungle along a trail that leads you to waterfalls where you can swim. There’s hiking in the forest, on the mountains and inside the crater.

But when we were searching for the best hikes in Hawaii, it was tricky — you won’t find any decent overview, so here’s the list of hikes we picked out for ourselves.

Twin Falls

30–45 minutes

A very short walk to waterfalls you can swim under. You can do it in flip-flops, but water shoes are better, because you cross little streams and the current can easily sweep them away. Don’t leave anything in your car at the car park — it’s one of the main spots for break-ins.

lukas a lucka
Lukáš and Lucie recommend
Where to Stay in Hawaii (Maui Island)
6 accommodations — campgrounds and other lodging options
⭐ TOP CHOICE ⛺ Camping
Waianapanapa
Campground near Hana on the eastern part of Maui island. One of the better campgrounds with toilets, outdoor showers, and drinking water. Located right above the black sand beach and at the start of Kings Trail – Pi’ilani Trail. It rains every night there.
★★★★ Check prices
Check availability
⛺ Camping
Kipahulu
Campground in Haleakala National Park with camping spots right on the cliff by the ocean. Minimal facilities – only outhouses, drinking water at the visitor center. From here you can head out on hikes to Waimoku Falls and Seven Sacred Pools.
★★★★ Check prices
Check availability
⛺ Camping
Hosmer Grove
Small mountain campground near Haleakala where people mostly sleep before climbing the volcano. Be prepared for cold – temperature can drop to near freezing at night. Has a shelter where you can cook when it rains.
★★★★ Check prices
Check availability
⛺ Camping
Haleakala Crater (Paliku)
Campground in the Haleakala volcano crater after a 21 km hike. Located by the Paliku cabin with non-potable water and outhouses. Unique experience of sleeping in a volcanic crater surrounded by the peculiar Nene geese.
★★★★ Check prices
Check availability
⛺ Camping
Polipoli
Remote campground in the mountains accessible only via a very bad road (the last 3 miles take 20 minutes). Almost always empty, with non-potable water and an outhouse. Wild boars roam the area.
★★★★ Check prices
Check availability
⛺ Camping
Papalua Beach Park
Beachfront campground on the west coast between Kihei and Lahaina, where it’s mostly sunny year-round. Basic facilities – outhouse, no water. Reservation required in Lahaina or by phone.
★★★★ Check prices
Check availability

Bamboo Forest Trail

3 hours

A walk through the jungle near Haiku that leads you to several waterfalls. Be careful — the trail isn’t marked and the Lonely Planet guide gives dubious directions on how to reach them. Once you cross the river, turn left; the path to the right is more worn but leads nowhere, just looping you back and forcing you to crawl under bamboo. Before long you’ll reach the first waterfalls, from where you continue right along the river until you reach the second falls, where you can take a dip. The trail then continues left, where there’s a rope you have to hold onto as you scramble up. You’ll reach waterfalls where you can play Tarzan and swing off the rope into the water. The guide said you had to swim across, but you can go around it and carry on up a ladder, where there are gorgeous crystal-clear pools.

Don’t bring too much with you — you’ll need both hands, and the best footwear for this hike is water shoes.

Pi’ilani Trail

3 hours, 6 miles, almost no elevation gain

It starts at the Waianapanapa campsite and you walk along the cliffs by the coast the whole way. Set off early in the morning, because you’re in full sun the entire time, which can make the trail far more demanding than it really is. If you’re not keen on hiking, you can turn back at any point — the views don’t change much. If you make it to the end, you can walk back along the road, where there are small shady sections and someone might even give you a lift part of the way.

At the very least, wear a pair of trainers.

Waimoku Falls

2.5 hours

A climb up to the waterfall through muddy jungle with bamboo, lianas and ancient trees. It’s not too steep, but if it rains it gets slippery. At the very least, wear trainers.

Haleakalā crater – hiking

42 km, two days

We parked at the spot where we wanted to finish and set out to hitchhike to the summit. The second car picked us up. From the summit we walked back to the visitor centre, where our two-day journey along the Keoneheʻeheʻe Trail began. From there you head steadily downhill across the parched crater to the first cabin, Kapalaoa, which appears after about 10.5 km from the start of the official trail. Don’t be fooled by the signposts — our Fitbits clocked far more miles than they showed. Around Kapalaoa the landscape starts turning green and you spot the first Nene birds. From the cabin it’s another 9 km to the Palikū cabin, where we camped. This part is closer to Hana and is therefore completely covered in greenery. The walk took us 6.5 hours and the sun shone the whole time, so we arrived totally sunburnt despite layers of sunscreen. From the summit it was 21 km in total.

The next day we set off from Palikū back to the car along the Halemauʻu Trail. This trail led to the Holua cabin. Once again the landscape gradually shifted from green to barren wasteland that glowed red, black, brown and green. The first section was a gentle climb, but from the Holua cabin the last 8 km were steeply uphill across a green hillside. We practically had to scramble our way out of the crater. The Fitbit clocked 21 km in total.

Tip: You’ll need hiking boots, sunscreen of SPF 50 or higher, a rain jacket and several layers — be prepared for both cold and heat, and it will definitely be chilly at night. We made a mistake by only preparing for cold, because everyone told us to brace for it. But instead of rain, there wasn’t a single cloud in the sky for most of the trail. Carry enough water to the first cabin, where you can boil more or use a water filter, so you don’t have to lug more than 2 litres per person. Drink plenty — you’re near the equator, so make yourself drink at least a litre by the first cabin. Don’t forget a rain jacket, enough food for two days, and a water filter or a stove to boil it.

What we brought with us:

Waiheʻe Ridge Trail

3 hours, around 10 km

The most beautiful thing in Hawaii after the Haleakalā crater. It reminded me of Sri Lanka. The guidebook describes it as a hike through a botanical garden of tropical flora. It’s a trail that climbs steadily upwards, so you’ll work up a bit of a sweat. Set off at seven and you’ll avoid not just the crowds but the clouds too. By the time we walked back, it was already overcast.

The 3 best beaches on Maui. We know where to swim with turtles.

Here’s a list of our favourite beaches on the Hawaiian island of Maui — and trust us, we tried nearly all of them.

1) Baldwin Beach

Calm for swimming during the day, then the wind picks up in the afternoon and you can mess about in the waves. It’s just a short distance from the main town of Kahului.

2) Hoʻokipa Beach Park

A beach where you can swim with the turtles that come here to rest during their ocean journeys. You can sometimes see dozens of them resting on the beach at once, and if you’ve got a snorkel, head into the water. Just be careful — this beach is also a surfers’ paradise, so there are huge waves, and in the afternoon it can get a bit too rough for snorkelling.

3) Kahekili Beach Park

Our favourite beach near Lahaina. While everyone heads to Kaʻanapali Beach, here you can enjoy a sandy beach with turquoise ocean alongside just a handful of other tourists. Come in the morning and the snorkelling is great too — the moment you wade in and dip your head under, you’ll see fish straight out of Finding Nemo.

Video report

Tips and tricks for travelling around Hawaii

What to pack

Take a look at our travel packing guide, which will help you get ready. Choose the right travel backpack, browse handy travel gadgets and make sure you don’t leave anything important at home.

Where to find flights

Look for cheap flights on Kiwi — it’s our favourite portal. Be sure to read our guide to finding cheap flights.

Car hire

We regularly use the comparison site DiscoverCars.com, which helps us choose the right car provider.

Booking accommodation

Booking.com is our favourite hotel search engine. We always compare hotels with local flats and rooms on Airbnb (£25 discount). Read up on how we find cheap accommodation.

Don’t forget insurance

Travel insurance is an absolute must. For shorter trips we go with AXA (50% discount) and for longer trips the British insurer True Traveller. Take a look at our comparison of all insurers and pick the one that suits you best.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Road Trip Canada Alaska USA: Our 3-Month Adventure

TL;DRThis road trip runs a simplified route from Calgary (Canada) to Fairbanks (Alaska) to San Francisco (USA) and back, with over 100 stops along the way — the authors spent three months on the road starting 29 June. They travel in a self-converted Dodge Grand Caravan (with over 265,000 km on the clock) fitted out with a bed, fridge and full camping kit, sleeping in the van, in a tent, or in Walmart car parks. Getting ready cost around 3,900 Canadian dollars in total (including the van itself), with the gear alone coming to roughly 20,000 CZK. For the trip they set themselves a daily budget of $50, which has to cover everything from food to petrol.
On 29 June, we set off on our first major road trip across North America — a Canada Alaska USA adventure spanning three full months. We’ll be living in our car, seeing everything we possibly can, and most importantly, writing and filming the entire journey. Along the way, you’ll find out not just where we’re headed and what we see, but also how much it all costs, what challenges we face, and we’ll share our best tips so you can plan an even better road trip than ours.
Setting off on our Canada Alaska road trip

How We Travel

We bought a car (Dodge Grand Caravan) and converted it into a campervan. It’s got everything — a bed, a fridge, a full cooking setup, and an inverter for charging all our electronics. Basically, apart from a toilet and a shower, we’ve got a complete house on four wheels. The car has over 265,000 kilometres on the clock, so it’s pretty much guaranteed we’ll be doing some repairs along the way. That just makes the adventure even more exciting! If you’re thinking of doing a similar trip from the UK, flying into Calgary with airlines like WestJet or Air Canada and buying a vehicle locally is a surprisingly affordable option.
We’ll sleep wherever we can. Mostly in the car or in our tent — ideally right on a beach, at a campsite, or in a Walmart car park. Whatever the circumstances allow, and above all, as cheaply as possible. Free is best.

Our Route

In a nutshell: Calgary (Canada) – Fairbanks (Alaska) – San Francisco (USA) and back again. But that’s the simplified version, because we’ve got over 100 stops planned along the way. Much of the drive follows the famous Alaska Canada Highway, one of the most iconic road trip routes in the world. Want to know where we are right now? We post photos and videos on Facebook every single day.
Map of Canada to Alaska road trip route

What We’ll Do Along the Way

We love hiking, so most of our time will be split between driving and scrambling up mountains. We’ll also need to cook, do laundry, and work online, so every now and then we’ll pop into a hotel lobby (for the wifi), a café, or a laundrette. Along the way, we’ll be filming, photographing, editing, and publishing. Oh, and sending postcards too. 😊

Our Complete Setup

The car: Chiquita, a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L V6, over 265,000 km on the odometer, originally a 7-seater.

What we built:

  • A plywood bed (check out the video of our car build) (30 CAD / ~20 € in materials)
  • Shelves made from milk crates (2 CAD / ~1.40 € per crate)

What we bought:

  • An electric cool box (45 CAD / ~30 €)
  • An inverter for charging all our gadgets while driving (39 CAD / ~27 €)
  • Camping gear — tent, 2 chairs, a double-burner stove (100 CAD / ~68 €)
  • Kitchen utensils, a frying pan, spatulas (50 CAD / ~34 €)
  • 2 power banks, including one beefy enough to jump-start the car (80 CAD / ~55 €)
  • Foam mattress and memory foam topper, pillows (80 CAD / ~55 €)
  • The car itself (2,800 CAD / ~1,900 €)
  • Backpacks (200 CAD / ~136 €)
  • Various odds and ends (200 CAD / ~136 €)

Preparation Costs

The biggest expense was obviously the car, which we plan to sell at the end of the trip — ideally for the same price we paid. We’ve pulled that off before.
Our total setup costs came to around 3,900 Canadian dollars, which works out to roughly 2,650 €. The gear alone (without the car) set us back about 850 €.
That might sound like a lot, but in Canada it’s an amount you can save up in about two months of work (when there are two of you). We were each earning around 15.50 CAD per hour, bringing home a combined total of roughly 4,000 CAD a month — and we always managed to save half of it.

Daily Budget: 50 US Dollars

We’ve saved enough from our time in Canada (at least we hope so!) to keep travelling until September. To give ourselves a buffer for unexpected expenses, we’ve set a daily spending limit of 50 US dollars (roughly 46 €). Staying connected on the road is essential too — for anyone planning a similar trip, grabbing an eSIM from Holafly is a great way to have data across both Canada and the US without worrying about roaming charges.

What We’ll Be Writing About

We’ll be flooding our social media with travel photos, short updates, and we’ll be documenting our entire journey and every single expense in detail (RIGHT HERE). Look forward to clear weekly updates on how we’re doing financially, how much money we have left, and just how much we’re struggling with our budget. 😃

How You Can Support Us

By buying a postcard from our travels, you can let us know you’re following along and that you care about what we’re up to. We’re not asking for anything more than the actual cost of the stamp and postcard, which we’ll be updating HERE as we go.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Why We Moved to Canada and Why We Came Back

TL;DRThe authors headed to Canada because their comfortable life in Prague had gone stale and stopped moving forward — this wasn’t a holiday, and they ended up staying longer once Canadian life gave them more than five years in Czechia ever had. In Calgary, and later in Lake Louise, they worked hotel reception jobs, lived through winter lows of -29°C (usually more like -10 to -15°C), and thanks to the warm chinook wind, highs of +15°C too. With help from their colleague Michelle, they rented a fully furnished flat in Bridgeland, ten minutes from downtown, for $700 a month. They describe Canadians as the friendliest people around, the country as free of racism, and a place where even minimum wage buys you a decent life — that, along with the mountains and the scenery, is why they kept going back.

After our article What We Didn’t Tell You About Working in Canada: The Dark Side of Pretty Facebook Pictures, many of you wrote to us asking why we were there, why we didn’t just go home. And why we kept coming back. Our experience of moving to Canada is a story worth telling — so this one’s specially for you, Worm from Twitter 🙂

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

What We Didn’t Tell You About Working in Canada

TL;DRWorking in Canada is nowhere near the Instagram-perfect idyll of Banff and Lake Louise. The reality involved cleaning hotel rooms for 30 hours a week instead of the promised 40, mobbing from a Vietnamese supervisor, seven days on with no time off, and a breakdown on day one in a 2×2 metre hostel room with a shared kitchen for 40 people. The author and her partner Lukáš also describe the brutal move to Calgary, where after an economic downturn wiped out ten thousand jobs, they sent out 600 CVs and landed just two interviews. They also mention fundraising work on the street in -20°C and grim conditions at the Olly Fresco café. The piece makes it clear that working in Canada is far more grind, conflict and uncertainty than the fairy tale you see in photos.

Upon arriving at the place from which we’d been posting breathtaking mountain photos, I had a mental breakdown in our 2×2 metre room with a shared kitchen for 40 people and one mouse.

“I want to go home. What was I thinking!” I screamed during our first hours in the staff accommodation in the forest above Banff, where we were supposed to spend 2.5 months.

This is the honest, unfiltered story of working in Canada that we never shared alongside those gorgeous Instagram shots. If you’re considering a work holiday visa Canada adventure, read on — because the reality of working in Canada is far from the fairy tale you might imagine.

The end of illusions came fast, along with the first tears

I don’t like conflict. I hate asking for money. I hate telling people unpleasant things. And honestly, I’d rather avoid all uncomfortable situations altogether. But life doesn’t work that way. The problem is, back home it was easy for me to avoid these conflicts, to live in my bubble. My comfort zone bubble burst when Lukáš and I stepped off the plane in Calgary in June 2016.

Suddenly we became immigrants with non-Canadian education, a funny accent, and barely any usable experience. And that illusion of an idyllic life we’d imagined vanished the moment we arrived in the mountain town of Banff.

Working in Canada and our view
This was definitely NOT our first day 🙂

Even with good English, you’re just cheap labour

Because as foreigners, even with good English, you’re suddenly just cheap labour with a one-year work permit. If you think you’ll find a great office job in the mountains, forget about it.

You’ve got a university degree, a well-paid job, you’re climbing the corporate ladder back home, posing in tailored clothes with a Starbucks in hand, feeling like you’ve made it. Here you’re nothing. And if you don’t speak good English, you’re absolutely nothing.

Your European degree means nothing here — deal with it

 

On the other hand, if you have practical skills — if you’re a hairdresser, painter, or electrician — you have a much better chance of finding work (especially if you speak English!). But I belong to the category of people with a degree who can speak English but otherwise can’t really do anything. And when I arrived, I was too scared to even speak.

The cleaning crew gang
The cleaning crew gang

How we became hotel cleaners

We found our jobs from back home. The only thing we could arrange in advance — including accommodation — was cleaning at a hotel, recommended by a Czech woman who’d worked there for a year. Given the room prices in Banff, our zero experience abroad, and the fear of the unknown, I still think it was a good decision. The first two weeks proved that our gym fitness only partially saved us from the insane exhaustion of carrying dozens of kilos of bed linen up and down the stairs.

What also became clear was that manual work clears your head, and most employees had university degrees from their home countries. A Japanese biochemist had arrived in the country just nine months earlier, knowing only “yes” and “no,” and managed to learn decent English in four months — first working as a waitress, then joining us in Banff.

 

Our brains were degenerating in conversations about green brushes

But a month passed and our brains started to fade, to degenerate. Even though I was still doing my online work for clients back home, the constant conversations about stains on freshly washed sheets seemed to be eating my brain cells.

“The front desk manager asked me to check if anyone would like to try working at reception too. They don’t have enough people and you already know the hotel,” our little Vietnamese cleaning manager told us at one of the regular absurd meetings where we collectively discussed cleaning issues — like whether it’s better to use a green or white brush on the toilet. “Based on my experience, when the toilet smells, use the green brush.” It’s still our favourite quote, from the mouth of the most determined cleaner, a Vietnamese woman named Sophie.

And so, without Lukáš knowing, I signed us both up.

How I dreaded the front desk

I hate phone calls. I used to deliberately not answer them. Text me, email me — that’s what I’d say in my head. I generally hate speaking in front of people. With people. Paradoxically, everyone seems to think I’m an extrovert. I find that quite comical.

And at the front desk, all you do is talk. But the prospect of talking was still much better than cleaning. And finding a different job in Banff seemed complicated — not because there weren’t any, but because we wanted to work at the same place, ideally with accommodation included. At least that’s what we told ourselves.

Lukáš has his first front desk shift before me. So when he comes back after 15 hours and I’ve got my shift the next day, I’m reading his notes and the manual over and over so I don’t mess anything up. I even google what the outdated RoomMaster 2000 software looks like, trying to find any YouTube video that might help. Lukáš laughs at me.

“They’ll teach you everything on the job.”

“You’re good at everything, it’s easy for you to say.” I’m fuming like a madwoman, studying the manual late into the night and again in the morning.

First day at the front desk
First day at the front desk

“Excuse me? I can’t understand you.” Emily slammed the phone down.

“When I can’t understand them, I just hang up. I’m not going to waste my time.” The front desk manager explains to me in a crisp British accent, gazing out at the rain, saying it reminds her of home. I’m only half listening, staring at the phone like it’s my worst enemy.

And then when it rings again, no one’s around to save me.

“I’d like to book a double suite for November 23rd, four nights,” says some Canadian who told me his name, but I didn’t manage to write it down.

“Sure, give me your number, I’ll verify the availability and call you back.” I reply. He dictates the number and I triumphantly hang up, thrilled it wasn’t that terrible!

Then I realise I wrote the number down wrong.

And then the terror began

It’s the middle of summer. I don’t even know how it’s possible — it’s already nearing the end, but we don’t have enough money for the trip we’d planned. Although we were paid only half a dollar less for cleaning than for reception work, we got too few hours from cleaning — not the promised 40 hours a week, but only about 30. That was barely enough to cover food, phone, insurance, and our trips around Banff. Only with the reception job did we finally get a paycheque that allowed us to save something. We were literally stuck. We decided to stay longer — until the end of September.

I was afraid my remote clients would fire me

I don’t know what day it is. I’m at work 15 hours a day, and when I’m not working at the hotel, I’m handling remote work from bed. I’m scared that the hotel job is starting to negatively affect my performance. But I can’t really do much about it. I dedicate every free minute to work and try not to miss anything. I get up at 6 AM, work on my laptop until nine, then go to the hotel, and some days I don’t get back until 11 PM. I lie in bed with my legs up because they’re so swollen I can’t sleep.

It turns out we’re handling the front desk well. Better than the Canadian woman who’s there full-time. After four shifts, Emily can already leave us on our own, knowing nothing will go wrong. Cindy, the Canadian, has done 20 shifts and still can’t manage it. But the fact that we’re working at reception doesn’t sit well with the Vietnamese side of the cleaning crew. Especially after Lukáš becomes a supervisor.

The Vietnamese manager tried to destroy us

We stop getting consecutive days off, even though we ask for them. We haven’t been on a trip in two weeks. We’re not allowed to work together. On days when we have front desk shifts, we’re made to stay longer than usual. And one stretch, we work more than a week straight without a day off. We’re tired. We’re exhausted. Tears well up with every step through the hotel. I’m not in the mood to chat. And that’s apparently a problem at work.

“Are you okay?”

“Yes.”

“The girls say you’re not talking to them.”

“I’m tired. I’ve been working seven days straight.”

“Did they do something to you?”

“I’m tired.”

“They think you’re angry.”

“I’m not in the mood to chat. I’m tired.” The little Vietnamese woman interrogates me, then goes to interrogate Lukáš too. She’s like a broken record. The fact that she’d been deliberately keeping us three hours late doesn’t seem to matter. I ask the others if they complained about me.

“What? No. You just look tired.” Says Saori, the Japanese woman with a biochemistry degree.

Saori the biochemist, currently working as a cleaner
Saori the biochemist, currently working as a cleaner

Emily calls us in. The sneaky little Vietnamese manager Kim is already waiting for us.

We started to understand we couldn’t stay

“When I brought you to reception, it was on the condition that this job wouldn’t affect your other work.” We get a lecture about how we’re great help, but if we can’t handle it, we need to stop working at reception. They both explain that they care about us.

The fact that Kim made us work 7 days straight isn’t a problem, but our reception shifts — where we just stand or sit and talk — apparently is. It makes no sense. We stare at them as if they’ve turned into aliens, but I immediately see the truth. Kim doesn’t want us at the front desk. She doesn’t want us succeeding there. If our work was hard before, now the real nightmare began.

It was somewhat baffling, because losing two employees at once during peak season wasn’t something she could really afford. And yet Kim did everything to make it happen. Lukáš was the favourite; I took the brunt of it.

“She’s trying to turn us against each other,” we tell our friend who’d been working there for his second year. His expression immediately tells us this isn’t the first time.

“I didn’t want to tell you because you wouldn’t have believed me,” adds a Slovak woman we’d barely spoken to — because Kim had done everything to make us think the worst of her. It turned out that separating couples and friends was Kim’s favourite tactic.

“One day you’re friends, the next day you’re nothing.” And this applied to the other Vietnamese woman too, who had been our best friend — until Lukáš became supervisor. Then she stopped talking to us. Not only that, hatred radiated from every word she exchanged with us.

Lukáš and Yuya - Japanese guy
Lukáš and Yuya – Who is who?

We tried to explain things first

So we went to Emily to explain our side of the story.

“You’re not the first to tell me something like this.”

“What should we do?”

“I don’t want to tell you to leave, because I need you here. But in my opinion, nothing can be done. You should leave — but first talk to management and tell them everything.”

To go or not to go, that was the question. Lukáš wanted to stay — not because he longed to, but he believed we could tough it out for another month and a half. But I was already in a bad place mentally. And let’s be honest, I was the one bearing the brunt of Kim’s hostility.

Do whatever you want, I’m going to be a mountain guide

“I’m leaving, do whatever you want.” And so Lukáš and I agreed to quit. What Lukáš didn’t expect was that I’d find us a new job within 2 hours. And that in 4 hours, we’d be sitting in an interview.

Míša was our saviour. We owe her the best month and a half in Canada.

I didn’t really care what we’d be doing — I just wanted out. I replied to every job advert I could find, and then it occurred to me to post in a group for Czechs and Slovaks in Banff. Míša from Lake Louise replied. I called her, and she said she might have work for us — could we come over? From the conversation, it sounded like some kind of reception work. How wrong I was.

“You don’t want to work in Lake Louise.”

“Yes, I do.” Lukáš drove grumpily the entire forty minutes to Lake Louise. My impulsiveness was irritating him. He dislikes change even more than I do, although he’s far better at adapting. So he said nothing. He knew it was good for us, even if he didn’t like the rush.

We clicked immediately. Míša warned us about the downsides of Lake Louise. The main downside — isolation from bars — sounded like paradise to us, because it meant we wouldn’t have to turn down pub invitations every week. Our joy at this “terrible downside” was a sign that this was the right move. We simply prefer hiking mountains.

It turned out we’d be working as mountain guides. Have I mentioned that I hate public speaking?

Our car packed to the brim
Our car packed to the brim

We had to learn about 80 pages of text in a few days

We packed our car to bursting point and at the end of the week, we moved to Lake Louise. Two days of training, and on the third day we were supposed to guide our first group. I stared at the materials. I read them top to bottom and none of it made sense. There were about eighty pages, and I thought I’d be lucky just to get through them all by then, let alone memorise anything. In the next two days, we were expected to master the basics about bears, elk, moose, caribou, strange birds I didn’t even know the names of, rodents with the same problem, trees, flowers, and mountains.

Panic.

But the panic faded when we first rode up to the interpretation centre where we’d spend the next month and a half. Clouds hovered just beneath the mountain peaks, bumping into each other, forming a blanket. Such a beautiful blanket! The sight of the sun licking the glacier above the lake named after a British princess (Princess Louise Caroline Alberta), whose name is also borne by the province (Alberta) where we worked.

View from work on Mount Whitehorn - first day
View from work on Mount Whitehorn – first day

After two days of training, we had to guide our first group

The two training days were over and Kai stood before us and asked: “So who’s going?” In reality, the morning plan had been to wait one more day. So we were shocked — we weren’t ready, we’d been enjoying the relief that neither of us would have to guide just yet. Especially after watching how Kai did it. We felt like we could never match that.

We were both on the schedule as Shift 3, so the day before we’d agreed that Lukáš would go if needed, because I was terrified out of my mind. But now it looked like he didn’t want to either. I took a deep breath. Once. Twice. Three times.

“I’ll go.” Lukáš stares at me. And in that second, I realise that although everyone thinks I take after my dad, my strongest qualities come from you, Mum. My mum once told me she’s actually brave — because even when she’s absolutely terrified of something, even having nightmares about it, she does it anyway. And in this moment, and in many moments still to come in Canada, I realise I’m exactly the same. And I discover the first quality about myself that I truly like.

“I’ll go.” Lukáš responds. And tells me I don’t have to. That he’ll go.

Kai decides we should both go.

First encounter with a bighorn sheep and mountain goat
First encounter with a bighorn sheep and mountain goat
Getting used to the wildlife - Lucka and a moose
Getting used to the wildlife – Lucka and a moose

Our first big success in Canada

And it was brilliant. Our group was small — just four people. Lukáš and I silently divided up the stops with a glance and stayed in sync so we wouldn’t talk over each other. I was proud of us. We’re a good team. And our group rewarded us with a generous tip, then wrote an amazingly positive comment on the feedback cards we had for that purpose. Only later did we learn that Melissa, another guide, had waited several weeks before she dared to lead her first hike.

 

The best month in Canada

That day marked the beginning of the happiest chapter in Canada. The staff accommodation consisted of small flats where we had a large room and kitchen, sharing just two bathrooms with three other people. For the first time, we had colleagues we actually wanted to spend time with after work. And even though we worked more than ten hours a day during the first two weeks, it felt like nothing. Suddenly we saw the Rockies from a completely different perspective. Knowledge about the local flora and fauna deepened our love for Banff and Lake Louise. We started to feel like the mountains were our home.

Daily routine :)
Daily routine 🙂

How everything went back to the same old ways

But the season ended and we set off on our rainy road trip across Canada and America, finishing in New York before flying back home. Although I’d promised myself I’d travel around more and spend time meaningfully, everything suddenly fell back into the old routine. The first week I told myself I could lounge on the sofa with my laptop because, honestly, I was exhausted from a month of travelling — but one week turned into two, and two into three months.

We went on exactly two trips.

We thought we already knew Canada. Now I laugh at that

It was time to fly back. As early as November, we’d bought flights to Calgary, where we planned to stay. We felt like everything would be easier now. We already knew Canada. But we knew summer in Canada. We knew the mountains. We knew working in Banff National Park, where summer demand for workers is high. We were heading to Calgary, where thousands had recently lost their jobs, skyscrapers had emptied, and a bustling city had turned into a ghost town.

True, it was slowly recovering, but there were still plenty of unemployed people. And let’s be honest — who would you rather hire? A Ukrainian or a Brit? And how do you think Canadians decide? A Canadian or a European? There are even studies showing that with a Canadian name and identical experience, you get 60% more interview invitations. But we saw it simply.

No job and no money. Will we survive?

We’d arranged to stay with a friend — a small flat in her building. We flew to England for a week before returning to Canada, only to learn the day before our flight that we couldn’t move in yet.

We were nervous. No job. No accommodation. With slim chances that the money in our Canadian account would last more than two weeks. All affordable places were booked out and Calgary was reporting -29°C. Once again, the Czech-Slovak community saved us. After we posted in the group, within hours we had replies from several families and couples offering us a place to stay. We saved a few numbers before boarding the plane and had already arranged for a Slovak couple to pick us up at the airport.

Out of 600 emails sent, only 2 interview invitations came back

We were lucky in our misfortune, because at Martin’s place — where we stayed the first two nights — they’d just let someone go at work, so Lukáš started working from the very first week. Our flat was habitable within two days and everything seemed to be on the right track. But I couldn’t find a job for the life of me.

From interview to interview, I was handing out CVs everywhere, sending them from morning till night, but out of about 600, only two interview invitations came back. Eventually I got into fundraising. A three-round interview process where I had to learn a speech for the second round.

Lukáš and his new ride
Lukáš and his new ride

How I made a fool of myself in -20°C

Have I mentioned how much I hate public speaking?

If I had to push the boundaries of my comfort zone several times in Canada, nothing gave me more than my week of convincing people on the street at -20°C to adopt a child from Africa on the spot. Calling out to people, making a fool of myself, trying not to freeze. It was hard enough just to get people to stop.

It seemed almost unbelievable that they’d stop long enough for me to deliver my entire rehearsed speech, but getting them — pushing them — to actually adopt a child? I consider that an art. An art I’d barely manage in a pleasant +20°C, but an art I definitely couldn’t master in -20°C.

Not only did I come home after eight hours with pain all over my body, but I was also mentally drained. Drained from talking. Drained from every moment of pushing people into something they didn’t want. And that was the part that told me I couldn’t do this. I didn’t want to push people into something they didn’t want, even though I admired the people I worked with. But it was too much for me.

I'm not cold at all
I’m not cold at all

The first big test

If you follow our Facebook posts, you know I once wrote about how to quit a job you’ve only just started. This was my first test. It’s not pleasant, but I had to be honest — and honesty is what they appreciated. We parted on good terms, and I still consider that week something that toughened me up more than any other experience.

 

And then I stumbled again

But I couldn’t afford to be without work for long. I rewrote my CV a thousand times, restructured it, highlighted my painfully short Starbucks experience, and taught myself latte art from YouTube and by practising the hand movements with imaginary milk in the air (you’ll be surprised, but my first heart actually turned out great). Two days later, I started as a barista at Olly Fresco.

Bad photo from a bad job
Bad photo from a bad job

When your employer watches you on cameras

So I’d love to give you a happy ending, but that didn’t happen. It turned out the manager/owner at Olly Fresco liked to shout at his employees and watch their every move on cameras — so if there was nothing to do, you’d better find at least some pseudo-activity to pretend you’re busy. After two days there, I was desperately unhappy. Not just because of the manager, but also the level and quality of service. The owner wanted speed over quality and to save every penny. When I discovered he was serving expired milk, I decided to leave.

Did I mention that during the interview he told me he was looking for someone long-term? At least a year? And that he repeated it every day, hoping I wouldn’t leave after a month? That’s exactly what I did. I found a café/bakery in a high-rise in downtown Calgary, just five minutes from our flat — compared to the half-hour drive or hour-long bus ride to Olly Fresco — so it was an easy choice.

I’m sure you can imagine how I felt knowing I had to tell him I was leaving. I felt sick about it, couldn’t sleep. I didn’t know whether to say it in the morning or after work. But I knew I had to say it.

I took a deep breath.

A deep breath is more powerful than you think. Now we’re stabilised. This certainly won’t be the last obstacle. I’m happy at work. After work I have plenty of time for my own projects, and on Monday we’re launching a social media campaign for our café/bakery too. (Don’t think I don’t sometimes fall asleep at four in the afternoon from sheer exhaustion. But with a smile on my face.) And what’s next for us? We’ll see.Working in Canada - our life in Calgary

When I was back in Prague reviewing dozens of CVs for nanoSPACE, I’d always set aside the one that included experience from abroad. And they invariably turned out to be the candidate who far surpassed the rest — in energy, mental resilience, and drive. Life abroad isn’t a fairy tale. It’s hard work. Beautiful hard work. You’ll probably experience both the best and worst moments of your life. But it’s worth it.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

3 Beautiful Hikes Near Banff, Canada

TL;DRThe three best hikes around Banff are Tunnel Mountain, Sulphur Mountain and Cascade Mountain. Tunnel Mountain is the easiest — just 40 minutes up from the car park, doable with kids and grandparents, with the whole loop taking around 1.5 hours. Sulphur Mountain gains 700 metres and takes 3–5 hours on foot, or you can ride the gondola up for 25 CAD one-way (49 CAD return). The toughest is Cascade Mountain, topping out at 2,998 m with a 1,615 m climb and 6.5–8 hours needed, starting from the Mountain Norquay Ski Lodge. For the best sunset views near Banff, head to the Mt. Norquay lookout.

Most of the time, I see mountains when I close my eyes for a moment. I see Banff. Tunnel Mountain, Rundle Mountain, Sulphur Mountain. I recite them quietly in my head, perhaps so I won’t forget them. So their shapes won’t fade, so their names won’t disappear from my memory, so I’ll never lose track of which folds of that mountain body I’ll see when I stand on the dock at Vermillion Lakes. Let’s take a look at three tips for beautiful hikes around Banff, Canada.

Around the Town of Banff

Those treacherous shapes rising around the mountain town of Banff are more contagious than any disease in the world. They won’t let me go in the morning, they won’t leave me alone in the afternoon, but it’s worst at night. At night they bear down on me in their full force, calling me, pulling me toward them like sirens. I feel like a traitor to my Czech homeland. I know all too well that the word Canada bores people, yet I say it in every sentence, and most days my head is empty, and in that emptiness only one word is written: Canada.

Beautiful hikes around Banff in Canada. View from Sulphur Mountain in Canada.

The Rocky Mountains in Canada That Made Me Ditch My Heels

I toy with that word, back and forth. The desert around me is fairly white, filled only with smog and the smell of the Thames, which I breathe in as I walk through the lovely parts of London. In reality, I see only one word.

It grows bigger with every passing day, with each day I try to forcibly hold onto every detail of the mountains in my head. I could tell you about this one word for hours, days, nights. But none of you could actually take it. Even the strongest among you, the ones who’ve read this far, would drop.

And yet things looked so promising for me! Just three years ago I was climbing mountains in heels. Ten years ago my definition of “cold” was Mallorca, where it was 29 degrees when we visited. “But Mum, make sure it isn’t as cold there as in Mallorca!”

I really did love my heels. I’m only 164 cm tall, and ever since a certain age — when I woke up and saw my bow legs in their full glory in the mirror — I’ve carried a deep aversion to sporty sandals. I think nothing uglier exists, and for the longest time I only wore trainers in PE class at school and at the gym. Today I wear Merrell boots and I’m heading back in February to a town where it can drop to -30 °C. My disease is already at an advanced stage.

And it’s all the fault of these mountains, which I saw for the first time three years ago. If you ever find yourself there, here are a few peaks you can reach straight from the little mountain town of Banff.

Where to Stay in Banff

One of the most beautiful views belongs to the slightly dated (but clean) Juniper Hotel, where Lukáš and I spent a summer working first as cleaners and then as receptionists. I can also recommend the local restaurant there, which served excellent food along with a gorgeous view over the landscape. If you’d rather plan ahead, you can browse and book accommodation in Banff through Booking.com.

3 Hiking Tips in the Canadian Rockies


This picturesque area, set in the heart of the Canadian Rocky Mountains and one of the most stunning national parks in Canada, is paradise for lovers of hiking and adventure. Snow-capped peaks, crystal-clear lakes, wild rivers and endless forests form the backdrop for unforgettable experiences and the discovery of natural beauty. Get ready for the adventure of your life, uncover the magic of this one-of-a-kind place, and see the spots that changed our lives forever. Looking for guided excursions? You can find plenty of options on GetYourGuide.

Banff Hiking Tip: Tunnel Mountain

Duration: 1.5 hours

One of the easiest hikes up a small mountain, manageable for children and seniors alike. The climb to the top from the car park takes only 40 minutes.

On the way up Tunnel Mountain you won’t face any significant technical difficulties. The gently rising trail lets you move with ease and focus on the enchanting scenery around you. Fresh mountain air and the scent of mixed coniferous forests will accompany you at every step, along with birdsong and the rustle of the trees.

Weather plays a big role on Tunnel Mountain, with each season reflected in changes to the colour and atmosphere of the surrounding landscape. Spring blossoms and the rich greens of summer bring the whole mountain to life, while autumn paints it in vivid shades of orange, yellow and red. Even in winter you can have an unforgettable adventure, when the snow blankets everything like a pillow and the view from the summit opens onto a fairytale winter world.

At the top of Tunnel Mountain you’ll be rewarded with a fascinating panoramic view that reveals the charming town and the mountains surrounding it. In the right conditions you can even catch a majestic sunset, bathing the landscape in golden light and creating unforgettable scenes. Within moments you’ll understand why this particular mountain has become such a popular spot to rest and admire nature’s beauty.

Sulphur Mountain

Elevation gain: 700 m

Duration: 3–5 hours (depending on the route)

You can hike Sulphur Mountain or take the gondola up (25 CAD one way, or 49 CAD return — roughly 17 € one way / 33 € return). That makes it the most visited peak in Banff. The climb up is more demanding. From the car park where the trail begins, it can take about 1.5–2 hours to reach the summit. The elevation gain is 700 metres.


You’ll hardly meet anyone on the trail, but you won’t see much either, because for most of the way there’s nothing but forest. Then suddenly you emerge at the top and there are so many people around that you’ll want to turn back immediately. But there’s a short path along the ridge, and with every step you take the crowds thin out. On the way down you can choose the back trail — it’s longer, but there’s no one on it, and you might come across a pair of marmots and ground squirrels.

Wildlife in the Canadian Rocky Mountains

Cascade Mountain

Elevation gain: 1,615 m

Duration: 6.5–8 hours

Our first “three-thousander” — which is actually only 2,998 m — and we set out for it at a time when our bodies were definitely not ready for such a brutal climb. For the last hour I was bright red and could barely catch my breath, scrambling over giant boulders toward the summit and tripping over thin air, because my legs gave no sign of being built for a climb like this.

But we made it up. The trick is that you walk for 3–4 hours through forest and see absolutely nothing. So once you’ve got the final hour of climbing left and it finally looks like you might actually see something, you won’t give up.

It starts from the car park at the Mount Norquay Ski Lodge, where you first walk downhill, only to spend the next four hours scrambling uphill through forest. The midway point, an hour and a half from the summit, is the so-called amphitheatre, which really isn’t worth the detour. It isn’t marked, but you’ll spot it easily — your job is to keep heading uphill.

View from Cascade Mountain in Banff, Canada

Sunset Tip Near Banff: Mt. Norquay

Our favourite spot for sunsets. Our favourite spot for watching the fireworks. You can hike it, but for me it’s tied to the viewpoint where you can park the car and soak up the cool Canadian summer evenings.

Sunset from Mt. Norquay near Banff, Canada

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

“Sometimes It Gets on My Nerves How Friendly They Are! What’s Wrong With You, People!”

TL;DRSo, what’s the deal with Canadians being so relentlessly nice? According to the author and a Slovak she interviews who works in Calgary, it’s completely genuine and not just some postcard cliché. The author spent nearly five months in Canada, from Montreal in Quebec to Calgary, Canmore and Lake Louise, and even Quebecers, who come across as the least friendly Canadians, are still warmer than most Europeans. The OECD ranks Canadians among the happiest people on earth, and the author backs this up with stories of shop assistants and random customers stepping in to help strangers without even being asked. This isn’t some one-off fluke — it’s a genuine cultural trait, and the author confirms as much on what’s already her fourth trip to Canada.
There are thousands of beautiful corners in the world where Mother Nature or the human hand has conjured up places that tourists flock to from every continent — just so they can snap a selfie with the very image they’ve already seen a thousand times on tacky mugs or in calendars. The incredible Canadian friendliness you experience when living in Canada wasn’t what drew me back for the fourth time, though. But it wasn’t those mugs and calendars that kept pulling me back to Canada. It’s beautiful in the Lake District too, and sure, our hills might not reach three thousand metres, but we’ve got mountains that from a plane look like a thousand fingers dancing a polka.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

10 Interesting Facts and Practical Tips About Riga, Latvia

TL;DRRiga‘s compact enough to cover on foot. A three-day transport pass costs €10, single tickets are €1.15 from a machine or kiosk (€2 from the driver), and bus 222 or 22 gets you from the airport into town in about half an hour. Highlights include St Peter’s Church, the striking National Library, the Museum of the Occupation and the panoramic Skyline Bar. It’s handy to know the word “kafejnīca” (café), locals speak great English, and organic products or a mushroom-shaped nutcracker make good things to bring home.

At the end of January, Lukáš and I headed on a trip to Riga, Latvia. It probably wasn’t the best time to visit, because it was freezing cold and rainy on top of that. But Riga Latvia has its charm even in the kind of weather that makes you want to crawl into bed and stay there.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Springing Up Like Mushrooms: Schools in Kibera Slum

TL;DRV keňském slumu Kibera u Nairobi, kde na ploše 2,5 kilometru čtverečního žije kolem milionu lidí, soukromé školy rostou jako houby po dešti – za posledních několik let jich vzniklo přes 250, zatímco státních škol je v celé oblasti jen tady se omlouvám, prohodil jsem jazyky. Zde je správný překlad do angličtiny: In the Kenyan slum of Kibera near Nairobi, home to around a million people packed into 2.5 square kilometres, private schools are springing up like mushrooms after rain – more than 250 have opened in the past few years, while the whole area has just three state schools. These small schools often have only one or two classrooms under a tin roof, with no playground, but they give children in the slum a chance at an education and something worthwhile to do with their time. One such project is Kibera Utu Academy, backed by CENTRUM DIALOG o.p.s. – more than a third of the children here pay no fees at all, and another third pay less than half the standard rate, while the school also provides up to three meals a day. The founders are now hoping to expand into the house next door, which costs 1,250,000 Czech crowns.
Our friends from CENTRUM DIALOG o.p.s. brought back a wealth of impressions from their latest trip to Kenya. Do you know how schools in a slum actually work? How children living in poverty spend their time, or how the education system differs from what we know? If you’re intrigued by stories of schools built from corrugated iron with just two classrooms, read on.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Slatiny: The Place in Prague Where You Feel Afraid

TL;DRSlatiny and the makeshift settlements of Pod Bohdalcem and Na Slatinách sit just a few steps from Prague’s Eden district. The author faces down threats from kids, aggressive Alsatians and burnt-out houses, while also discovering a tight-knit community of allotment gardeners and long-time residents. The colonies date back to the 1920s, when the local council rented out plots for next to nothing to migrants seeking work in the city. These days there’s no electricity or running water, houses regularly go up in flames, and the area is home to old-timers, homeless people, addicts and gardeners alike. The piece shows that behind the fences with guard dogs, and among the people using drugs, you’ll often find surprisingly warm characters, like Láďa M. and František H. from the Pod Bohdalcem settlement. The takeaway is that fear in Slatiny usually comes down to prejudice rather than any real danger.
Two ten-year-old girls ran up to me. One of Prague’s most dangerous neighborhoods was about to teach me a lesson I’d never forget. “Got a cigarette?” The cute blue eyes of the blonde girl certainly didn’t match any stereotype about socially excluded families. The other one — dark-haired with dark skin — she wouldn’t have surprised anyone. But this isn’t a world of stereotypes; this is reality. Defaulters don’t come in a designated skin colour, hair colour, or eye colour. They’re simply defaulters.

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!

Romania #4: Clean Only Where EU Money Flows

TL;DRIt was only in Alba Iulia, and specifically its citadel with the Catholic cathedral and the bishop’s and royal palaces, that the authors finally found a clean, distinctly European atmosphere. Modern food stalls filled the courtyard there — one even had a sign reading “Praha Smíchov”. Getting there meant rougher stops along the way: Oravița, Corvin Castle in Hunedoara (Romania’s largest Gothic building), the Roma “pagodas” nearby, and the storm-battered fortress at Colț near the Râușor gorge. They also came across the Roman amphitheatre ruins at Sarmizegetusa, where they ran into tourists for the first time on the whole trip. Food-wise, they mostly survived on Caesar salad and pizza, since the local cuisine never quite clicked with them — the one exception being Bistro Art Grill in Hațeg. Their verdict on Alba Iulia is clear: this was the first place where, thanks to EU funding, they finally recognised the kind of civilisation they know from home.
Hotel Condor seemed to be the only oasis of civilisation for miles around on our Romania road trip. Oravita turned out to be a town where nothing exists. (Lesson learned: pointing at a map and saying “we can sleep here because it’s halfway to point Y” is not an ideal way to plan a trip.)

Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation

Don’t Overpay for Flights

Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.

Book Your Accommodation Smartly

The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.

Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).

Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.

Find the Best Experiences

Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!