At first glance, the South Bohemian town of Bechyně in the Czech Republic looks like an unassuming little place, but it actually hides three distinct identities at once. It’s a renowned peat spa town, a historic centre of Czech ceramics production, and an incredibly photogenic spot perched on a rocky promontory high above the Lužnice River. The deep valley is spanned by a unique arched bridge known as the Bechyně Rainbow, which to this day carries both cars and trains on exactly the same deck. If you’re looking for tips on what to see in Bechyně, you’ll be amazed at how much is packed into such a small area.
Getting here can be seriously stylish, because the town is served by a famous historic railway line from Tábor. It was designed by František Křižík himself, and as the little electric train approaches the town and rolls across that enormous bridge, you feel as though you’ve travelled a hundred years back in time. Bechyně is an ideal destination for a long weekend, where you can take in everything calmly and at a leisurely pace on foot.
I’ve put together a complete guide full of personal experiences and practical advice. I’ll point you towards the prettiest viewpoints, tell you where to park the car, and suggest restaurants where you’ll eat well even if you’re not a big meat fan.
TL;DR: what awaits you in Bechyně
- Where it is: A small town of just under five thousand inhabitants, set in South Bohemia above the confluence of the Lužnice and Smutná rivers, roughly twenty kilometres from Tábor.
- Why go: The town cleverly combines rich history with relaxing spa breaks and a stunning piece of engineering in the form of the Rainbow bridge.
- When to visit: The best time is from May to September, as Bechyně Castle is usually only open during the main summer season.
- How long to stay: Half a day to a full day is enough for the main sights, but if you’re planning to unwind at the spa, definitely stay for the whole weekend.
- What to taste: South Bohemian classics are all about fish and meat, but you’ll also find great pizzerias and cosy cafés for those of us who prefer meat-free meals.
- The main experience: Riding Křižík’s historic Bechyňka railway straight from Tábor, which is an adventure in itself.
When to visit Bechyně
Before visiting Bechyně, it’s worth deciding exactly what you want from the trip. If you’d like to see the interiors of the local Renaissance castle and enjoy warm-weather walks along the river, plan your visit for the main season. The castle gates usually open from June to September, and bear in mind that they tend to be closed on Mondays. The town comes alive most in the summer months, when you can even swim in the Lužnice or rent a boat by the bank.
If you decide to come in spring or autumn, you’ll avoid the larger crowds, and the autumn colours in the Lužnice valley look truly magical. Lukáš and I love these quieter months, when you can wander the lanes entirely on your own and soak up the laid-back small-town atmosphere. Set aside half a day to a day for the main sights, such as the square, the bridge, the viewpoints and the monastery. But if you want to treat yourself to peat treatments at the local spa, definitely stay for the whole weekend and don’t rush anywhere.
How to get to Bechyně and where to park
The journey to this South Bohemian town can be a great experience in itself, especially if you decide to leave the car in nearby Tábor and hop on the historic railway known as the Bechyňka. This 24-kilometre line was designed by František Křižík and became the very first electrified railway in the then Austro-Hungarian Empire. It went into service back in 1903, and the ride takes about fifty to sixty minutes. The train passes through beautiful countryside and finally crosses the deep valley in dramatic style, straight over the Bechyně Rainbow. If you love old trains, do look up more on the official Bechyňka website.
If you’re flying in from the UK, the most convenient option is to land in Prague, where airlines such as British Airways, easyJet and Ryanair fly from several UK airports. From Prague it’s a drive of just under two hours, as the distance is around 117 kilometres. From České Budějovice you’ll get here in a little under an hour, since it’s only 44 kilometres away. Tábor itself is really close by, around twenty minutes by car. Keep in mind that to use Czech motorways you’ll need a vignette (highway sticker), which you can buy online or at petrol stations.
Parking in the centre is thankfully fairly simple. You can leave your car right on T. G. Masaryk Square, where parking is paid but the first half hour is free for quick errands. If you’re after free options, I recommend parking by the Rainbow bridge or using one of the local park-and-ride lots. From there it’s a comfortable walk into the centre in just a few minutes.
Where to stay in Bechyně
Even though the town is small, you’ll find a surprisingly varied range of accommodation here. From cosy guesthouses through historic hotels right on the square to specialist spa houses with pools and wellness treatments. It all depends on whether you’re after a romantic weekend or more of a practical base for exploring South Bohemia.
- Penzion Vila Elektra Bechyně: This is one of the best-rated places to stay in the whole town. It sits just a short walk from the centre, offers family rooms with lovely views, and guests rave about its own restaurant and friendly atmosphere.
- Hotel Panská Bechyně: A beautiful Art Nouveau building right on the square. If you love staying in historic buildings with a hearty, generous breakfast, you’ll be thrilled here. A big plus is that the renowned Špajz restaurant is right under the same roof.
- Penzion Pod Skalou Bechyně: A great choice for those looking for more affordable accommodation in a quieter part of town. The rooms are clean and the owners are very happy to help with tips for day trips around the area.
- Apartmán Dlouhá Bechyně: A very reliable option if you prefer your own kitchenette and more privacy during your stay. The apartments are modern and within easy reach of all the main sights.
- Lázeňský dům Jupiter Bechyně: For the perfect spa break, I recommend this complex. You can enjoy the famous peat wraps, book a massage and have a swim in the spacious pool.
- Lázeňský hotel Olga Bechyně: This hotel offers step-free access and full comfort for anyone who has come to town primarily for treatment of the musculoskeletal system.
What to see in Bechyně
Although the centre covers a fairly small area, it’s literally packed with history and interesting views. Narrow lanes lead you from the square right to the edge of the rocky promontory, where the view over the Luženice River opens up before you. I’ve put together a list of the most interesting places you definitely shouldn’t miss during your visit.
1. The Bechyně Rainbow bridge
This reinforced concrete arch bridge is the town’s great pride and a genuine engineering marvel. It was ceremonially opened on 28 October 1928 to mark the tenth anniversary of the founding of the Czechoslovak republic. It was designed by engineer Eduard Viktora, and the bridge arches an impressive fifty metres above the surface of the Lužnice River. The main arch spans ninety metres and the total length reaches roughly 190 metres. Since 2014 the bridge has deservedly been a national cultural monument, and the locals absolutely adore it.
The most fascinating thing is that the deck serves both cars and the railway at the same time. When a train passes through, the cars simply have to wait at the barriers. A narrow footpath runs along one side, so you can walk the whole structure at your leisure and gaze down into the deep valley. If you’re after the best angle for the perfect photo, head to the nearby monastery garden or to the Náprstek viewpoint, where you’ll have the whole Rainbow laid out before you.
2. Bechyně Castle
The castle, standing right on the edge of a steep cliff, has a very rich history. Originally a Gothic castle from the 13th century stood on this spot, dating back to the days of King Přemysl Otakar II. The complex underwent a fundamental transformation after it was bought in 1569 by the famous Petr Vok of Rožmberk. He commissioned the Italian architect Baldassare Maggi of Arogno to carry out a major rebuild, and between 1581 and 1584 the old castle was transformed into a grand Renaissance residence. The estate was then owned by the princely Paar family until 1948, and today it’s looked after by private owners. You can find more details about tours on the official Bechyně Castle website.
Once inside, you’re sure to be struck by the beautiful sgraffito decoration on the facades of the inner courtyard. A real gem is the late-Gothic hall with its intricate net vaulting. On the ground floor you’ll even discover a so-called tree vault, a sandstone pillar carved into the shape of a mighty trunk with lopped branches. This masterpiece was created by the stonemason Wendel Roskopf around 1515. Just remember that the castle can only be visited on a guided tour during the summer season, with basic admission costing around €10 and a concession around €6. Families with children pay roughly €25 for entry.
3. The Franciscan monastery and the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Another important monument within sight of the river is the late-Gothic monastery. The Franciscans moved in back in 1491 and left us a beautiful building full of peace and contemplation. The complex includes the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, whose hall-style double nave is over 42 metres long. Tours of the interior are guided, and tickets are easy to get at the local information centre on the square.
Inside the church you’ll come across a rare cellular, or diamond, vault. It’s a very specific type of Gothic vaulting, built entirely without supporting ribs, creating fascinating geometric patterns that play with light and shadow. This complex even ranks among the richest collections of this type of vaulting in the whole Czech Republic. After touring the church, don’t forget to stroll through the adjoining monastery garden, which is freely accessible every day from eight in the morning to eight in the evening. It offers wonderful tranquillity and the most beautiful views over the countryside.
4. T. G. Masaryk Square and the Church of St Matthew
The heart of the whole town is the spacious T. G. Masaryk Square. Around its edges stand picturesque townhouses with arcades, where small cafés, patisseries and local shops are now tucked away. You’ll also find the town information centre right on the square. If you need a paper map or some advice on current tour times in the area, do pop in, as the ladies behind the counter are always very helpful and friendly.
The main landmark of the square is the Baroque Church of St Matthew with its strikingly tall onion dome, which you’ll spot peeking out from afar as you arrive in town. The square is an absolutely ideal starting point for your wanderings. You can grab a morning coffee here, buy something tasty, and then head off down the cobbled lanes towards the castle, or the other way towards the viewpoints above the river.
5. The Lužnice valley and views of the castle
Because the whole town sits on a high rocky promontory above the river, there’s a whole array of beautiful views over the surrounding countryside on offer here. When you stand up by the monastery or at the Náprstek viewpoint, the entire valley opens up before you. A deep gorge ringed by green forests, the calm surface of the river below, and the majestic arch of the Rainbow bridge rising in the middle of it all. It completely won us over on our first visit, and we ended up gazing at the scenery for a really long time.
If you want to descend from the centre down to the water, you can take the long stone staircase of 226 steps that links the town with the opposite bank in the district known as Zářečí. The Lužnice is a very popular river for canoeing, and in season it can get quite lively here. In summer you’ll see dozens of boats drifting beneath the cliffs, and along the banks you’ll find small beaches where you can take a dip and cool off pleasantly on hot days.
6. The footbridge over the Lužnice and a walk to the river
An easy path leads straight down from the castle into the valley, and I warmly recommend adding it to your itinerary. You’ll reach the Lužnice River itself, where you’ll come across a striking blue steel footbridge. It connects both banks right beneath the steep castle promontory, and crossing it is very pleasant, especially when all you can hear is the murmur of the flowing water.
It’s from this very spot down by the water that you’ll get the loveliest views of the castle from below. Only here will you fully appreciate just how huge and sheer the rock was on which the whole residence was built in the past. It’s a peaceful place, ideal for resting and watching nature, where you won’t meet nearly as many tourists as up on the square.
7. Bechyně’s ceramic tradition
Bechyně and ceramics are inseparable, and this craft gave the town its distinctive character. Pottery is documented here as far back as the 16th century, and industrial production took off in earnest in 1875. The town is even home to the oldest Czech ceramics school, the Secondary School of Applied Arts in Bechyně, founded back in 1884. The local artistic tradition is also kept alive by an international ceramics symposium, which has been held here regularly since 1966.
If you’re interested in this field and enjoy watching precise craftsmanship, do visit the International Museum of Ceramics. It operates as a branch of the Aleš South Bohemian Gallery and the exhibition is well worth seeing. Just note that the museum moved in 2021 and you’ll now find it at Novodvorská 301. Admission costs around €4, concessions €3, and a family ticket will set you back about €6.
💡 Tip: If you want to learn more about other attractions in the region and prepare for your trip, take a look at the official website of the town of Bechyně.
Where to eat in Bechyně
South Bohemian cuisine is famous among locals, but it traditionally relies heavily on hearty broths and roasts. In ordinary restaurants you’ll very often find svíčková (beef sirloin in cream sauce) or fried carp from the local ponds, which is something many visitors come here specifically for.
The two of us, however, are lifelong vegetarians, and to our great surprise the town has plenty to offer us too. We mostly went for honest pizza, much-loved pasta, the timeless fried cheese or classic potato pancakes.
The highest-rated establishment in town is Restaurace Špajz, which you’ll find right inside Hotel Panská on the square. They cook modern South Bohemian cuisine from local ingredients and make absolutely delicious homemade lemonades packed with fruit. If you fancy an Italian classic, try Protivínka, which combines Italian and Czech cooking. Another option is Pizza Bechyně, but watch out, as they’re regularly closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. For honest home cooking, head to the family-run restaurant U Pichlů. And if a craving for something sweet hits you after lunch, you can happily treat yourself to a great coffee and fresh cake at the VEIS pizzeria and patisserie on the square.
Day trips from Bechyně
If you have a car and would like to explore the wider area, Bechyně makes a very practical base. Here are a few day-trip ideas that lie just a few dozen minutes’ drive away and are well worth your attention.
- Tábor (20 km): A historic Hussite town with a beautiful cobbled centre and a maze of underground passages. It’s also the terminus of the Bechyňka railway. Read our detailed article on what to see in Tábor.
- The Stádlec chain bridge: An industrial heritage site spanning the Lužnice, which was moved piece by piece from its original location on the Vltava and reassembled here.
- Dobronice u Bechyně (7 km): A romantic ruin of an old castle towering above the river, beneath which there’s some pretty pleasant swimming in the hot summer.
- Soběslav (22 km): A lovely South Bohemian town with a historic square and the remains of an old castle.
- Týn nad Vltavou (12 km): A small town at the confluence of the Vltava and the Lužnice, where among other things you can climb the interesting wooden Semenec lookout tower.
- Milevsko (20 km): Here you’ll find a very large and historically important Premonstratensian monastery, whose tangled history reaches all the way back to the twelfth century.
💡 Tip: If you want to make planning easier and you’re looking for organised tours or tickets to attractions in South Bohemia, take a look at the offerings on GetYourGuide. Lukáš and I often use it to buy tickets in advance and skip the long queues at the box office.
Where to go next
Did you enjoy the article about Bechyně and are you planning more trips around the Czech Republic? I’ve put together a few more tips on where to head to discover something new.
- Get inspired by our guide to the capital of South Bohemia and find out everything that nearby České Budějovice has to offer.
- Love endless ponds, flat landscapes and easy cycling? Take a look at our tips on what to do in Třeboň.
- Looking for more ideas for weekend breaks full of experiences? Read our big, comprehensive article on where to go on holiday in the Czech Republic.
Frequently asked questions
Where to park in Bechyně?
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The best option is to park directly at the paid T. G. Masaryk Square, where you have the first half hour for free. If you’re looking for free parking, use the area near the Duha bridge or the park-and-ride facilities on the outskirts of town.
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When is Bechyně Castle open?
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The castle is accessible to visitors only during the main summer tourist season, which is usually from June to September. The entire castle complex is regularly closed on Mondays.
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What makes the Bechyňská duha bridge unique?
This reinforced concrete arch bridge from 1928 is exceptional in that cars and trains share the same single deck. When a train approaches, cars have to wait at the level crossing before the bridge.
What do the Bechyně spa treat?
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The local peat spa is the oldest of its kind in South Bohemia. It focuses primarily on the treatment and rehabilitation of the musculoskeletal system using warm wraps made from rare local peat.
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How long does the ride on the Bechyňka from Tábor take?
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The journey on the first electrified railway from Tábor to Bechyně takes roughly fifty minutes to one hour. The ride through the picturesque landscape is a great experience for families with children and technology enthusiasts alike.
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Is the city tour demanding?
The very center of Bechyně lies on flat ground and is easily walkable for all age groups. However, if you head down to the Lužnice River to the Zářečí area, you’ll need to tackle a staircase with 226 steps, which does require somewhat better physical condition.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
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