Planning to visit Waterton Lakes Canada — specifically Waterton Lakes National Park in the heart of Alberta? When people think of national parks in this part of the world, the overwhelming majority immediately blurt out Banff or Jasper. Lukáš and I were no different — when we first started planning our road trip through western Canada, we only had eyes for those famous turquoise lakes. But then someone told us to head all the way south to the American border, to a place where the endless, flat Canadian prairie quite literally smashes into a wall of massive rocky peaks from one second to the next. And that’s how we discovered Waterton Lakes National Park.
This park is probably the most intimate and laid-back place we’ve experienced in the Canadian Rockies. There’s no overwhelming mass tourism here — the town of Waterton basically has just three streets, and the whole place has this wonderfully homely atmosphere. Yet you’ll still find some of the best trails in North America, bears that occasionally stroll right past your car, and an iconic clifftop hotel where the wind blows so fiercely it could practically knock you off your feet — coffee and all 😅.
So let’s dive in — I’ll show you the Crypt Lake trek that’ll leave your legs aching and your heart full (in the best possible way), a blood-red photogenic canyon, a boat ride across the border on a vintage vessel, and a few more things that’ll have you kicking yourself for not visiting sooner. Plus the practical stuff: accommodation, prices, and when to actually come so you don’t arrive to find the entire town in hibernation.
TL;DR
- Best viewpoint: The Bear’s Hump hike. It’s short but seriously steep (about 45 minutes up), but the view of the town and lakes from the top is simply unbeatable.
- Top adventure experience: Crypt Lake Trek. Ranked among the world’s 20 best trails by National Geographic, it involves a boat ride, climbing a ladder, and squeezing through a narrow rock tunnel.
- For families and photographers: Red Rock Canyon. A beautiful scenic drive takes you to a canyon with red rocks where you can wade through a creek in summer.
- Watch the season: Waterton has an incredibly short season — pretty much everything only operates from mid-June to mid-September. Outside these months, the town is almost completely shut down.
- Getting there: The easiest option is to fly into Calgary and hire a car at the airport — the drive south takes roughly three hours.
When to Go and How to Get to Waterton
If you’re thinking about visiting this stunning corner of Alberta, there’s something important you need to know. Waterton Lakes National Park has an absolutely tiny summer season. This really isn’t a place you’d want to visit “off-season,” because in winter the town is home to only about a hundred permanent residents and the vast majority of restaurants, hotels, and petrol stations are simply closed. The best time to go is from mid-June to mid-September. We’d personally recommend late August or early September, when the mosquitoes have eased off a bit and the mountains start catching those gorgeous autumn colours.
The easiest route here is via Calgary, which has plenty of international flight connections. From the UK, you can find direct flights from London to Calgary with airlines like WestJet and Air Canada, or budget-friendly connecting flights via other hubs. We’ve had consistently great experiences with DiscoverCars for hiring vehicles worldwide, so we always book a car in advance to pick up at the airport. The drive south from Calgary is roughly 270 kilometres and takes just under three hours at a comfortable pace through flat prairie. The dramatic moment when the mountains suddenly rise up in front of you out of nowhere is truly breathtaking.
Where to Stay and How Much Waterton Costs
When searching for hotels in Waterton Lakes National Park, you need to be prepared for two things. First, the town (Waterton townsite) is genuinely tiny, and second, peak-season prices can climb pretty high. If you want to experience the true atmosphere of the park, definitely stay right in the village — but you’ll need to book as far as six months in advance because capacity fills up at an unbelievable rate. A standard double room in a decent hotel here will run you roughly 250 to 400 CAD per night during peak summer (that’s about 170 to 270 €). We’d recommend the popular Waterton Lakes Lodge Resort for extra comfort, or the slightly cosier Crandell Mountain Lodge, which has that lovely mountain cabin feel.
For those who prefer sleeping under the stars, there’s the famous Townsite Campground. It’s probably the most popular campsite in the entire area — right on the lakeshore with views straight across to the mountains and the town. Sites for tents and caravans can be booked through the official Parks Canada website, but again, when bookings open (usually in January or February), the best spots vanish within minutes. A campsite pitch costs around 30 to 40 CAD (roughly 20 to 27 €) per night.
Waterton Lakes National Park: 10 Places to Visit and Things to Do
This tucked-away corner of Canada had us hooked from day one, so we’ve put together a proper mix for you — something for those who want to push their legs to the limit, but also things where you simply stand there open-mouthed, wondering if anywhere can really be this beautiful.
1. Prince of Wales Hotel — the Cliff-Top Icon
Even if you don’t spend the night here, this building is impossible to miss when visiting the park. The Prince of Wales Hotel was built in 1927 and looks like a giant Swiss mountain chalet that someone accidentally dropped onto a high bluff above Upper Waterton Lake. It’s easily the most photographed spot in the entire park, and the moment you pull up in front of it, you’ll immediately understand why.
Here’s a fun fact: the entire hotel is built from wood and sits in a spot where the winds are so ferocious that massive supports had to be built into the structure. Even today, as you sit inside the magnificent lobby of the Prince of Wales Hotel with its enormous windows, sipping an overpriced coffee, you’ll occasionally hear the whole giant timber frame creak and groan. I’d definitely recommend popping in for the traditional afternoon tea — the view through the glass wall straight onto the lake and surrounding mountains is worth every penny.
2. A Stroll Through the Tiny Town of Waterton
Waterton townsite isn’t a town in the traditional sense — it’s more like a cluster of a few streets with a handful of small hotels, restaurants, and three souvenir shops. But that’s exactly where its incredible charm lies. The whole place feels wonderfully safe, clean, and friendly, especially in the evening when hikers return from the trails and everyone sits out on patios with a beer or ice cream.
It’s not at all unusual to be heading out for your morning coffee and have a herd of deer or bighorn sheep casually cross the road in front of you — the animals have long since gotten used to people and wander freely between the houses. What amused us most (and slightly terrified us, to be honest) was just how close they get to you — but please respect the national park rules and don’t approach or feed them.
3. Hike Bear’s Hump for the Best View
If you only have time for one short hike and want to see all of Waterton spread out beneath you, head up Bear’s Hump. It’s only a 2.8-kilometre return trail, but brace yourself — it’s essentially a staircase to the sky. The elevation gain is pretty steep, so you’ll definitely work up a sweat, though Lukáš and I managed it in about 45 minutes.
The reward at the top, however, is absolutely spectacular. You find yourself on a flat rock high above the town, with the entire beauty of the lake, the Prince of Wales Hotel, and the Canadian prairie stretching out in the distance below you. It’s especially magical at sunrise or sunset, when the rocks catch that perfect golden glow — pure paradise on earth. It does get seriously windy up there though, so even in the height of summer, throw a light jacket in your daypack.
4. Red Rock Canyon — a Colourful Marvel
If you search for Waterton Lakes National Park Red Rock Canyon online, you’ll see photos that might make you think someone went overboard with Photoshop. But the canyon really is that intensely red. The drive along the scenic Red Rock Parkway to get there is an experience in itself, winding through gorgeous valleys where we even spotted a black bear grazing just off the roadside.
The canyon itself is relatively shallow, with a crystal-clear, ice-cold creek flowing along the bottom. The contrast of crimson rocks, vivid green pines, and blue sky makes it one of the most popular spots for families with children, who love wading through the stream on hot summer days. You’ll spend about an hour here, unless you fancy tackling some of the shorter trails that start from the nearby car park.
5. Crypt Lake Trek — a National Geographic Adventure
This is the absolute crown jewel for hiking enthusiasts. The Crypt Lake Trek is consistently ranked as one of the best — and most adventurous — trails in North America (National Geographic itself placed it in the world’s top 20). It’s no ordinary forest walk. It starts with boarding a boat at the marina, which ferries you across the lake to the trailhead, because there’s simply no way to reach the starting point on foot.
What follows is a roughly 20-kilometre loop with around 700 metres of elevation gain, during which you’ll squeeze through a narrow natural tunnel carved into the rock, tackle a section of cable-assisted trail (essentially a mini via ferrata), and climb an iron ladder. At the end, you reach the emerald-green Crypt Lake, which sits partly on the American side of the border and often has chunks of ice floating on it even in the middle of summer. It’s an unforgettable experience, but make sure you wear proper, well-broken-in hiking boots — tired feet on an exposed ledge are no laughing matter.
6. Cameron Falls Right in Town
A waterfall you don’t have to hike for hours uphill to reach? Yes, Waterton delivers that too. Cameron Falls is located right on the edge of the village, so you can reach it with an easy stroll in just a few minutes from any hotel or campsite. It’s wonderfully accessible, with a safe pathway and viewing platforms around it.
Locals told us about a curious phenomenon that we were gutted to have missed: during extreme rainstorms, the water washes red minerals (called argillite) off the rocks higher up in the hills, and the waterfall turns a vivid pink for a few hours. We only saw it in its classic clear, foamy state, but even so, it’s a hugely photogenic spot.
7. A Boat Cruise Across the Border
Because Upper Waterton Lake is split by the international border between Canada and the USA, one of the most popular experiences here is a cruise on the historic tour boat, The International. The boat departs from the marina right in Waterton and in roughly two hours takes you to the southern tip of the lake, to a place called Goat Haunt, which is already in Montana, USA.
A word of warning — if you want to disembark on the American side and hike into Glacier National Park, you’ll need your passport and a valid travel authorisation (British citizens need an ESTA). We didn’t realise this until we were already on the boat, so we only saw Goat Haunt from the deck 😅. I’d recommend booking your boat tickets in advance — it gets pretty busy.
8. Akamina Parkway and Canoes on Cameron Lake
Another jaw-dropping road to drive is the roughly 16-kilometre Akamina Parkway. It leads you out of the village and high up into the mountains, ending at the stunning subalpine Cameron Lake. You’ll notice straight away that you’re several hundred metres higher — the temperature drops noticeably and the air is wonderfully crisp and fragrant with pine.
We absolutely love hiring boats at places like this, and here’s your perfect chance. Right by the lake there’s a small rental shop (often run by cheerful students on their summer jobs) where you can grab a red canoe or paddleboard for a reasonable price and head out on the water. From the middle of the lake, you can see massive glaciers slowly sliding down into the water at the far end — a scene you simply won’t forget.
9. Bertha Lake Trail and Waterfalls
If you’re looking for a hike that sits somewhere between the easy canyon strolls and the demanding Crypt Lake, Bertha Lake Trail is the one. It starts just a stone’s throw from Waterton townsite, and we tackled it on one of our first mornings after arriving. The trail rises gently at first to the lovely Bertha Falls (manageable for just about everyone — roughly an hour’s walk).
If you’ve got the energy, though, you can continue from the falls up a steeper climb through endless switchbacks all the way to Bertha Lake itself. This blue-green gem is tucked away high in the mountains, ringed by towering rock faces, and the moment you arrive, you’ll completely forget that just half an hour earlier you were cursing every single step uphill 😁. The return trip to the lake and back takes roughly 4 to 5 hours depending on your pace.
10. The Connection with Glacier National Park, USA
Here’s something most people don’t know about Waterton: just beyond the mountains on the American side, it seamlessly connects with Glacier National Park, together forming the world’s first International Peace Park. In 1932, the two parks were formally united to create the historic Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park.
We’d highly recommend combining your Waterton visit with a drive across into Montana to experience the legendary Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier. In a single day, you can go from the quiet, intimate Canadian park to one of the most dramatic mountain roads in the entire United States. It’s a trip you’ll look back on with incredible fondness, even if the white-knuckle driving above sheer drops on the American side tests even the most seasoned drivers 😅.
Where to Eat and Drink
We figured that in a town with three streets we probably wouldn’t starve, but we weren’t expecting any culinary revelations either. Waterton pleasantly surprised us, though. If you need a quick and affordable calorie refuel after a tough hike, definitely head to Wieners of Waterton. They do brilliant hot dogs in homemade buns loaded with everything from cheese and onions to special sauces. There’s always a queue, and it’s an absolute local institution.
For a sweet morning treat, the little café and bakery Waffelton is perfect. You can smell it from the street — they make proper waffles piled with fresh fruit, whipped cream, and of course traditional Canadian maple syrup. And if you fancy a slightly more upmarket evening meal, try the Lakeside Chophouse. You sit right by the water, they serve excellent steaks and local fish, and while it’s a bit pricier, the view of the mountains reflected in the lake is worth every cent.
Where to Go Next: What to Do Nearby
If you’re planning a wider road trip through western Canada, don’t miss the more famous (though considerably busier) spots further north. We’ve written detailed guides for you.
- Where your road trip will likely begin: What to see and do in Calgary.
- Turquoise lakes and bears a bit further north: Banff National Park — the complete guide.
- And before you head for the mountains, check out our SafetyWing travel insurance review — it’s saved us more than once while abroad.
Travel Tips and Tricks (Not Just) for Canada
- Finding flights: Search for cheap flights to Calgary on Kiwi — it’s our favourite flight comparison tool and we regularly find great deals there.
- Hiring a car: We use DiscoverCars.com all around the world — in Canada, a car is an absolute must.
- Mobile data abroad: Signal in the mountains is patchy at best, but in towns and on the roads you’ll want data. Check out our review of the Holafly eSIM so you’re sorted.
- Booking accommodation: Wherever possible, we rely on Booking.com — it’s our go-to hotel search engine.
- Don’t forget insurance: Healthcare in Canada costs astronomical amounts. For shorter trips we go with a standard policy, and for longer stays or digital nomads we recommend SafetyWing.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Still have questions? Here are the ones we get asked most often in the comments and on Instagram.
Is Waterton Lakes National Park worth visiting?
Absolutely. While you won’t find massive lakes like Lake Louise in Banff, you also won’t find nearly as many crowds. The park has a wonderfully intimate atmosphere, excellent hiking trails, and plenty of wildlife. It’s a hidden gem of southern Alberta.
How many grizzly bears live in Waterton?
Local ranger estimates vary, but the greater area (including adjacent parks) is home to over 1,000 bears. Naturally, fewer live directly within Waterton itself, but there’s a very good chance you’ll spot either a grizzly bear or a smaller black bear from a distance during your visit. Always carry bear spray with you.
Is Waterton the most beautiful national park in Canada?
That’s a really tough question to answer because beauty is subjective. Many people consider Banff or Jasper the most beautiful thanks to their massive glacial lakes. However, Waterton is often considered the most beautiful in terms of how close the mountains are immediately after arriving from the flat prairies, and how cozy it feels.
What makes Waterton Lakes National Park so special?
The biggest highlight is that together with the American Glacier National Park, it forms the world’s first international peace park. And here’s another fun fact: over half of all plant species found in the entire province of Alberta grow here, so botanists could easily spend a whole week exploring.
What’s the camping situation like at Waterton Lakes National Park?
Camping is very popular here, but lakeside spots fill up quickly. The best and most accessible option is Townsite Campground right in the heart of the action. It has showers and you’re close to shops, but you need to book months in advance. There are also more remote backcountry campsites in the park for backpackers.
Is there a park map and where can I get one?
Of course. As soon as you drive through the park entrance gate, where you’ll pay the daily admission fee (or show your annual Parks Canada Discovery Pass), you’ll receive a very clear paper map with all the main attractions. Larger visitor centers with more detailed trail maps are located right in Waterton townsite.
Are drones allowed in the park?
No, drones are not permitted in any national park in Canada. If local rangers catch you flying one, you risk having your equipment confiscated and facing a really hefty fine that could completely blow your vacation budget. So it’s better to take aerial shots from Bear’s Hump instead.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
