If you’re wondering what to eat in Paris, France, the answer arrives first thing in the morning. As the city slowly wakes and that utterly unmistakable, sweetly caramelised scent of clarified butter drifts out of the corner bakeries into the cool morning air, it’s a feeling that never gets old. You’re sitting at a little round table on the pavement, tearing off the still-warm crust of a crispy baguette with your hands and watching the city slide into its daily rhythm. Waiters in long white aprons line up the wicker chairs to face the street, people hurry to work clutching coffee cups, and you have a whole day of discovery ahead of you. Lukáš and I have played this gastronomic game more times than I can count, and every single time we rediscover that hunting down the best spots in Paris has its own peculiar, faintly adrenaline-fuelled magic.

But Paris has been totally transformed food-wise since our first visit, and for the better. Gone are the days when, as a vegetarian, I’d be handed a sad, dressing-free salad and a mound of cheese while the rest of the table tucked into rich meaty courses. After all the Olympic frenzy, the city took a deep breath and launched into a huge green revolution, and 2026 is an absolutely pivotal year in this respect. When the famous three-Michelin-star restaurant Arpège announced it was switching to a purely plant-based menu, it sent shockwaves through the entire culinary world. Add to that a new generation of young chefs opening laid-back bistros in tucked-away side streets, pouring cloudy natural wines and ignoring the stiff rules of the old school.

Writing a guide to Parisian food means navigating between luxurious palaces and noisy market halls. You’ll need a bit of strategy, because Parisian cafés and wine bars aren’t exactly spacious. Don’t let the legends of arrogant waiters put you off, though. Once you grasp a few basic rules, learn the magic word of greeting and fall into their rhythm, the French will welcome you with open arms. You’ll discover that a fantastic lunch is entirely possible without ever compromising on quality.

So here’s everything we’ve tried with our own teeth over the years in Paris.

TL;DR

• Best time to eat: The lunch menu (formule midi) is served strictly between 12:00 and 14:30. It’s the best way to taste top-tier gastronomy at a fraction of the evening price (typically €18 to €28).
• The golden rule of politeness: Every time you walk into a bakery, restaurant or café, you must begin with a loud Bonjour (Bonsoir after 6pm). Without it, the staff will simply ignore you.
• The 2026 vegetarian revolution: The three-star restaurant Arpège is now fully vegan (lunch comes to €260). For more affordable plant-based feasting, head to Le Potager du Marais or the raw bistro 42 Degrés.
• Where to go for the best pastries: Always ask for a baguette tradition (never the plain one) and a straight croissant au beurre (the curved one is made with margarine). For the legendary pistachio snails, go to Du Pain et des Idées.
• Street food sure bet: L’As du Fallafel on Rue des Rosiers makes the best falafel in Europe. Heads up: it’s strictly closed on Saturdays for the Sabbath.
• Water is free: Instead of pricey bottled water, always ask for une carafe d’eau (a carafe of tap water) with your meal. It’s your right and it’s completely free.
• Book a table: The better bistros (like Septime or Pink Mamma) fill up a month in advance. Reservations are made online, often via The Fork app. Without one, you stand little chance.
• Watch out for the August trap: In August Parisians leave en masse on holiday. Many family bistros and famous bakeries close for several weeks (the so-called fermeture annuelle).
• Natural wine: Try it like a local. Duck into a small bar (cave à manger) such as Le Verre Volé, order a glass of unfiltered wine and pair it with small sharing plates.
• Tipping tips: By law the restaurant bill already includes a service charge (service compris). A tip isn’t compulsory, but for great service you leave a few euros in cash on the table.

When to go to Paris for food: Seasons and 2026 events calendar

Choosing the right month for your culinary expedition is absolutely crucial. Parisian menus change with the weather, and what’s light vegetable poetry in May turns into rich, warming sauces by November. We love the months when you can sit outside on the terraces, because it’s simply the most pleasant way to soak up the city’s atmosphere.

Spring and autumn: The golden middle ground

May and June are made for a foodie trip. The markets overflow with asparagus, strawberries and fresh peas. Temperatures are ideal for picnics by the Canal Saint-Martin or in the Luxembourg Gardens. September and October are just as magical. The period known as la rentrée (the return after the summer holidays) brings enormous energy to the streets. Chefs open new spots, unveil autumn menus full of pumpkin, mushrooms and root vegetables, and you get to enjoy a city that’s fully back in gear after summer.

💡 Tip: If you’re planning a spring trip, watch out for Easter. Lots of small family bistros are closed over the holidays, while chocolate boutiques (like Pierre Hermé) are bursting at the seams as Parisians stock up on Easter eggs.

The summer months and the treacherous August

July is still full of life in the city, and on top of that, in summer 2026 parts of the Seine are finally opening for public swimming after a hundred years, which is a huge deal. So you can have a great lunch and then go cool off right in the river. The real problem, though, comes in August. If you can, avoid August. The city empties out, the asphalt melts, and the best independent restaurants, bakeries and cheese shops hang fermeture annuelle signs on their doors. The locals have simply gone to the seaside, and you’ll often be left at the mercy of overpriced tourist traps that stay open all year round.

💡 Tip: If you absolutely must go to Paris in August, rely on hotel restaurants and the big brasseries (such as Bouillon Chartier), which never close. International and Asian spots in the 13th arrondissement also tend to stay open.

Winter cosiness and Christmas markets

January and February can be raw and chilly in Paris, but gastronomically it’s actually a brilliant time. The best citrus is ripening, hearty onion soups are simmering, and restaurants are full of locals because tourists are at a minimum. The end of the year then belongs to the Christmas markets. They tend to be fairly commercial, but mulled wine (vin chaud) and the smell of roasting chestnuts in the streets have something special about them. Winter is also when you’re most likely to land a reservation at the most sought-after Michelin spots.

💡 Tip: Don’t go to Paris for Valentine’s Day unless you really have to. On that day restaurants offer only fixed, often overpriced menus, the atmosphere feels forced, and the usual à la carte menu is cancelled.

Where to stay in Paris (not only) for food lovers

Your choice of neighbourhood will set the whole tone of your holiday. Paris is made up of twenty districts (arrondissements) that spiral out from the centre like a snail shell. Each one has a completely different mood and, above all, a different food scene. With our love of good coffee and vegetables, Lukáš and I have come to favour specific zones where everything is within reach and we don’t have to spend hours underground on the metro.

6th arrondissement (Saint-Germain-des-Prés)

The absolute top choice for a peaceful stay: the pavements here are pleasantly wide, the Jardin du Luxembourg is just around the corner for long strolls, and you’ll find fantastic organic markets and historic cafés. Sure, it’s a pricier area, but the calm is genuinely worth it.

We’ve tried a few places to stay here that we swear by. The classic Parisian Hotel des Grands Hommes offers a view of the Panthéon, has a lift (not a given in Paris) and a night here runs to about €220. A little closer to the river is Hotel Britannique, with beautifully clean rooms and very welcoming staff, where the price tends to be around €180.

3rd arrondissement (Upper Marais)

The historic heart of the city, which survived the great Parisian redevelopment. The streets are narrow, but the northern part (Haut Marais) is quieter. Here you’ll find the best falafel, the wonderful covered market Marché des Enfants Rouges and plenty of specialty coffee shops.

Our clear pick here is Hotel Les Tournelles. It’s a lovely, clean-design hotel with family rooms and perfect access to all the hip bistros in the area. A night runs to about €200 and it’s well worth the comfort right in the heart of the action.

11th arrondissement (Popincourt / Bastille)

If you’re coming primarily for the food and modern bistronomy, this is your base. It’s a busier, young neighbourhood packed with natural wine bars and independent chefs. In the evening it really comes alive and gastronomically it doesn’t put a foot wrong.

In this neighbourhood our favourite was Le Général Hôtel. A very modern hotel a short walk from Place de la République, with friendly staff and great local pastries for breakfast. A night here starts at €150.

💡 Tip: When booking a hotel, always make sure it has a lift (ascenseur). Lots of old Parisian buildings only have narrow spiral staircases, and you really don’t want to be hauling suitcases up to the fourth floor.

When you travel to France for the food, the morning coffee and pastry become a ritual you start looking forward to the night before. Breakfast at the boutique hotel Hôbou made us hugely happy, as did their afternoon service of homemade desserts baked by local pastry chefs. I write more about this gastro experience in our hotel review, and you can easily book it right here.

Where to eat: Parisian bistros and the revolution called Bistronomie

Forget for a moment about starched white tablecloths and silence broken only by the clink of silver. The most exciting things in Paris right now are happening in battered bistros with exposed brick, where quiet hip-hop plays from the speakers and chefs cook in trainers. The movement known as bistronomie took the techniques of haute Michelin cuisine and dropped them into a relaxed setting. The epicentre is eastern Paris, and for us it’s a huge joy, because the new generation of chefs loves working with vegetables.

The Septime phenomenon and its sisters

This is where it all started. Chef Bertrand Grébaut opened Septime in the 11th arrondissement (Rue de Charonne) and completely rewrote the rules of the game. The restaurant now holds one Michelin star but keeps its informal feel. Getting in is a bit of an adrenaline sport, but if you manage it, an unbelievable experience awaits. They’re completely used to cooking purely plant-based, but you have to flag it when you book. Don’t expect any meat substitutes – you’ll get masterpieces made from root vegetables and herbs. Right next door is their sister venue Clamato, which focuses on seafood.

💡 Tip: If you want to experience Septime in peace, grab a table at lunch (they open at 12:00). The atmosphere is more relaxed, daylight gives the place a more laid-back feel, and the lunch menu is also significantly cheaper than the evening tasting.

• Where to find it: 80 Rue de Charonne, 11th arrondissement (Metro Charonne, line 9)
• Price: Lunch menu around €65, evening tasting €110
• Open: Mon–Fri 12:00–14:00 and 19:30–22:00 (closed weekends)

Frenchie and the Rue du Nil empire

Chef Greg Marchand has essentially privatised one small cobbled side street in the 2nd arrondissement. His flagship, Frenchie, is a global sensation. Around it he’s gradually built a little empire that includes a wine bar across the way and a fast-food bistro, Frenchie To Go. Getting in is a bit of an adrenaline sport, but it’s well worth it, and the food is playful, precise and incredibly photogenic.

💡 Tip: The Frenchie Bar à Vins wine bar doesn’t take reservations. If you want to eat there, you have to turn up about 15 minutes before opening (they open at 18:30) and simply join the queue. First come, first seated.

• Where to find it: 5 Rue du Nil, 2nd arrondissement (Metro Sentier, line 3)
• Price: Evening menu at Frenchie around €140, smaller plates at the wine bar €15–25
• Open: Mon–Fri evenings (main restaurant), wine bar open daily from 18:30

An Asian twist at the Levha sisters’

Tatiana and Katia Levha are the rock stars of the Parisian food scene. Their first venue, Le Servan, in the 11th arrondissement, is the very definition of a modern French bistro with subtle Asian touches. A bright interior, a beautiful brass bar and food with serious edge. A short walk away they’ve opened Double Dragon, an even wilder concept full of spicy sauces and funky natural wines. For me as a vegetarian, that Asian influence is absolutely brilliant, because they can conjure incredible depth of flavour from tofu and fermented vegetables.

💡 Tip: Le Servan is best experienced over lunch – the staff are young and friendly and the atmosphere is calm. Double Dragon, by contrast, is more of an evening affair and very loud.

• Where to find it: 32 Rue Saint-Maur, 11th arrondissement (Metro Voltaire, line 9)
• Price: Starters around €14, mains €25–30
• Open: Tue–Sat lunch and dinner (closed Sunday and Monday)

Instagram hits and the Big Mamma Group

Social media and the show Emily in Paris have turned some venues into genuine pilgrimage sites. People often queue there just for the photo, but the Big Mamma group deserves its enormous hype gastronomically too. Their Italian restaurants are opulent, colourful and look like a film set inside. Their flagship, Pink Mamma in Pigalle, looks like a greenhouse crossed with a palace. Homemade pasta, truffle pizzas and creamy burrata make these spots a safe and immensely tasty zone for any vegetarian.

💡 Tip: You’ll practically never get in without a reservation – the wait-list queues are endless. Bet on the lunch opening time, when you have the best chance of landing a table on the lower greenhouse floor, which is the prettiest part of the whole place.

• Where to find it: Pink Mamma, 20bis Rue de Douai, 9th arrondissement (Metro Blanche, line 2)
• Price: Pizzas and pasta €15–22
• Open: Daily lunch and dinner

The 2026 Michelin scene: Vegetables at the top

Paris and Michelin go together like a fresh baguette and salted butter. This is where the rules of haute cuisine were born. You might think the world of starched tablecloths and hushed dining rooms is an inaccessible luxury for the chosen few. That’s not quite true. What’s more, Parisian haute cuisine is undergoing a huge transformation, with vegetables rising to the absolute top. If you want to treat yourself to an exceptional experience, you have plenty to choose from – and without having to sell a kidney.

Arpège: The vegetarian holy grail

Alain Passard is, for me personally, a bit of a culinary god. His Arpège has held three Michelin stars continuously since 1996, but that alone wouldn’t be enough. And now the most important bit: in 2026 Arpège is fully plant-based. The only exception among animal products is the honey from Passard’s own beehives. It’s the only three-star restaurant in France to take such a radical step, and for me it’s a dream come true. Iconic dishes like the flambéed aubergine with melon confit will quite simply bring tears to your eyes. The vegetables are supplied by his own biodynamic farms.

💡 Tip: If the €420 evening tasting is too much for you, go for the lunch menu. You’ll get the same Passard cooking, just in a more intimate midday atmosphere and at a noticeably friendlier price.

• Where to find it: 84 Rue de Varenne, 7th arrondissement (Metro Varenne, line 13)
• Price: Lunch menu €260, evening tasting €420
• Open: Mon–Fri lunch and dinner (closed weekends)

Vivide and Étude: Intimate meat-free experiences

If Arpège is currently out of your budget (and honestly, ours too), don’t worry – Paris has a few brilliant alternatives right at the top. For uncompromising vegan haute cuisine, head to Vivide. They serve a so-called blind tasting menu, where texture and unexpected combinations take centre stage. Another stop for the discerning is Étude in the quiet 16th arrondissement. This one-Michelin-star restaurant will, on advance request, prepare an absolutely phenomenal vegan tasting menu. It’s a very calm and elegant place.

💡 Tip: A blind tasting means you don’t know in advance what you’ll get. The chef cooks from whatever they brought back from the market that morning. So when booking, you must state any allergies very precisely.

• Price: Vivide tasting menu €75, Étude around €120

Guy Savoy and the classic heavyweight

If your partner appreciates more than just plant-based food and you’re after proper, heavyweight French classics in breathtaking historic surroundings, head to restaurant Guy Savoy. It’s housed in an 18th-century building and serves up perfection. The chefs sweat blood over every portion and the service runs like a perfectly tuned Swiss watch. Lukáš still raves about their famous artichoke soup with truffles.

💡 Tip: These three-star palaces enforce a strict dress code. Forget trainers (even the clean designer ones) – men need a jacket and women elegant attire.

• Where to find it: Monnaie de Paris, 11 Quai de Conti, 6th arrondissement (Metro Pont Neuf, line 7)
• Price: À la carte items €100–250, tasting over €400
• Open: Tue–Sat lunch and dinner

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to stay in Paris

6 accommodations — hotels, wellness hotels and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏨 Hotel

Hotel Britannique

Beautifully clean hotel with very friendly staff in the 6th arrondissement (Saint-Germain-des-Prés), a bit closer to the river than Hotel des Grands Hommes.

★★★★ from €180/night

Check availability ⭐ Luxury

Hôbou

Boutique hotel with fantastic breakfast and afternoon service of homemade desserts made by local bakers. Morning coffee and pastries are a ritual there.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hotel des Grands Hommes

Classic Parisian hotel in the 6th arrondissement (Saint-Germain-des-Prés) with a view of the Pantheon and an elevator, which is not a given in Paris.

★★★★ from €220/night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hotel Les Tournelles

Beautiful, design-focused hotel in the 3rd arrondissement (Northern Marais) with family rooms and perfect access to all the hip bistros in the area.

★★★★ from €200/night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Le Général Hôtel

Very modern hotel near Place de la République in the 11th arrondissement (Popincourt/Bastille), friendly staff and excellent local pastries for breakfast. Ideal base for lovers of modern bistronomie.

★★★★ from €150/night

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View all accommodations in Paris

Explore all available accommodation options in Paris and find the best one according to your preferences and budget.

★★★★ Compare prices

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Bib Gourmand: Top-tier gastronomy at a fraction of the price

Michelin isn’t only about stars. For locals, the much more valuable mark is the one with the face of the little Bibendum man – the so-called Bib Gourmand. This award goes to restaurants offering exceptionally good food at a reasonable price. Try the great spots Le Coucou or Adami in the 9th arrondissement. They’re ideal places for a relaxed evening. It’s louder here, the tables are closer together and the atmosphere is far livelier than in the quiet Michelin sanctuaries.

💡 Tip: The best culinary trick in all of Paris is called the formule midi (lunch menu). Even at the very best venues you’ll get a starter and a main over lunch for an unbelievable €18 to €28.

• Price: Three-course menu always under €45

The complete vegetarian and vegan map of Paris

Being a vegetarian in Paris no longer means being condemned to a diet of dry baguette and cheese from which you have to desperately pick out bits of bacon. Not at all. The city on the Seine is now one of the most creative places for meat-free dining in Europe. Here are our tried-and-tested addresses where you’ll eat so well that even die-hard carnivores will forget there’s no steak on the plate.

Traditional French cuisine without meat

It would be a shame to be in France and not taste onion soup or hearty stews. A short walk from the Centre Pompidou (which, by the way, is closed for renovation until 2030) you’ll find Le Potager du Marais. It’s exactly the right thing. They make meat-free versions of traditional French dishes, often in a fully vegan rendition. A slightly more modern approach is taken by Le Potager de Charlotte in the 9th arrondissement, where they playfully take old techniques and apply them purely to vegetables.

💡 Tip: If, as a vegetarian, you wander into an ordinary corner brasserie, watch out. Most classic cooking is built on pork lard (saindoux) or bits of bacon (lardons). They’ll happily sprinkle bacon over even a plain salad. Always ask: “Il y a des lardons dedans?” (Is there bacon in it?).

• Where to find it: Le Potager du Marais, 26 Rue Saint-Paul, 4th arrondissement (Metro Saint-Paul, line 1)
• Price: Mains €18–22
• Open: Wed–Sun lunch and dinner

The raw and healthy wave

Sometimes, after all those buttery croissants, your body simply starts crying out for vitamins. An absolute one-off is the bistro 42 Degrés in the 11th arrondissement. It’s the only raw food bistro in France. Nothing in the kitchen is cooked or heated above 42°C, so the ingredients keep all their nutrients. Yet the presentation is a match for haute cuisine. If you need a quick health hit on the go, the Wild & The Moon chain will save you. They make cold-pressed juices and great bowls.

💡 Tip: Wild & The Moon has a branch right in the Marais. It’s a great stop for an afternoon break when you run out of steam after a whole day wandering the cobbled streets. They also have excellent raw desserts.

• Where to find it: 42 Degrés, 109 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 9th arrondissement (Metro Poissonnière, line 7)
• Price: 42 Degrés mains around €20, Wild & The Moon juices from €6

Exotic flavours and African rhythms

As soon as European flavours start to bore you, head to the 10th arrondissement near the Canal Saint-Martin. This is home to Jah Jah by Le Tricycle, a spot with a Jamaican and African vibe ruled by a Rastafarian style. The absolute hit here is the Mafé – rice with a rich sauce, avocado, bananas and grilled vegetables. If you love Asian food, Tien Hiang is an institution. Everything here is vegan, and the chefs work so masterfully with plant-based substitutes that their fake duck would easily fool even native Asians.

💡 Tip: At Jah Jah they’ll top up your coffee with just about any plant milk you can think of – from coconut to hemp to oat.

• Where to find it: Jah Jah, 11 Rue des Petites Écuries, 10th arrondissement (Metro Château d’Eau, line 4)
• Price: Giant bowls around €15

What to eat in Paris: Markets, street food and natural wine

The real Paris – the one locals love and live every day – smells of fresh coriander at the market and drips down your fingers in the form of hot sauce on a street corner. This face of Parisian gastronomy is the most laid-back thing you can experience. No stressful waiting for the next course, no stiff etiquette, just food, aromas and life on the street. Here joy and pleasant chaos rule.

Marché des Enfants Rouges: The oldest market

This is our holy grail. The oldest covered market in Paris has been running since 1615 and sits in the heart of the northern Marais. Today it’s a buzzing gastronomic labyrinth full of fantastic ready-food stalls. While Lukáš goes for the Japanese bento, I reach for the perfect Moroccan vegetable tagine. We find a spot at the wooden tables outside and eat straight from our hands. The atmosphere is completely informal, with nobody frowning at anyone. Try to grab a sandwich at the legendary Chez Alain Miam Miam stall.

💡 Tip: Come here on a weekday around midday if you can. At the weekend it gets so packed you can barely squeeze between the stalls and tables.

• Where to find it: 39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd arrondissement (Metro Arts et Métiers, lines 3 and 11)
• Price: Ready meals at the stalls €10–15
• Open: Tue–Sat 8:30–20:30, Sun 8:30–17:00 (closed Monday)

L’As du Fallafel and the Marais war

An absolute must. On Rue des Rosiers in the 4th arrondissement, a daily, merciless battle for the best falafel plays out. The green façade with the L’As du Fallafel sign draws crowds like a magnet. You’ll get a fluffy pita stuffed to bursting with crispy falafel, fried aubergine and tahini. Don’t let the long queue put you off – the system is incredibly fast. Staff walk along the line taking payment in advance.

💡 Tip: L’As du Fallafel is a strictly kosher venue. From Friday afternoon to Sunday morning it’s absolutely CLOSED for the Sabbath. If you hit closed doors, there’s a great alternative right opposite – Mi-Va-Mi.

• Where to find it: 34 Rue des Rosiers, 4th arrondissement (Metro Saint-Paul, line 1)
• Price: Falafel to go around €8
• Open: Sun–Thu 12:00–24:00, Fri until 17:00, closed Saturday

Breizh Café and the art of the true galette

Crêpes are of course a classic, but forget the rubbery discs from the warmers under the Eiffel Tower. The real street food is the Breton galette (savoury buckwheat pancakes). They’re delicious with meat-free fillings like cheese, egg and spinach, and they’re naturally gluten-free too. The top of the field is Breizh Café. They use premium ingredients and their Marais venue is wonderfully pleasant. With a crispy galette in hand, you’ll feel like you’re in seventh heaven.

💡 Tip: With a proper Breton galette you traditionally don’t drink wine, but dry apple cider (cidre brut), served to you in little ceramic bowls (bolée).

• Where to find it: 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd arrondissement (and other branches)
• Price: Galettes €10–16
• Open: Daily lunch and dinner

Caves à Manger and natural wine

I first tasted natural wine in Paris with great scepticism – what on earth is this cloudy drink that smells of a farmyard? – but now I’m hooked. It’s made with minimal intervention, often without filtration and with no added sulphur. The result can be cloudy and smell of the farm. It’s drunk in so-called caves à manger (wine shops with light food). Try the cult Le Verre Volé near the Canal Saint-Martin. The key to a chilled experience is timing. Parisians love apéro from 17:00 to 20:00. At that time the bars are still calm, there’s plenty of space and the staff have time for you.

💡 Tip: By the Canal Saint-Martin you can take a bottle of wine to go from Le Verre Volé (you’ll pay a small corkage fee) and go sit right on the embankment. For a relaxed summer evening it’s the perfect solution.

• Where to find it: Le Verre Volé, 67 Rue de Lancry, 10th arrondissement (Metro Jacques Bonsergent, line 5)
• Price: Glass of wine €6–10, small plates €8–15

Morning in Paris: Bakeries, sweets and the third coffee wave

A Parisian morning smells of butter. For Lukáš and me, who never sleep in much when travelling, the early-opening bakeries are a gift from heaven. French baking is a national sport and the coffee culture has finally caught up with world standards. You can choose whether you want to soak up history alongside the ghosts of Hemingway, or have a perfect flat white made from Ethiopian beans in a minimalist spot.

The law of the perfect baguette and croissants

As soon as you step into a boulangerie, never just order “une baguette”. You’d get a plain white loaf. You want a baguette tradition, which by strict law is baked only from flour, water, salt and yeast. And with croissants, watch out for a big trap. The curved croissant (crescent-shaped) is made with margarine. The straight one is the croissant au beurre, full of honest butter. For absolute perfection, head to the historic bakery Du Pain et des Idées in the 10th arrondissement and buy their legendary snail with pistachio and chocolate (escargot pistache-chocolat).

💡 Tip: A baguette is never cut with a knife! It’s broken by hand. Parisians routinely tear off the crispiest end (le quignon) on the way home, right there in the street. We do it too.

• Where to find it: Du Pain et des Idées, 34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th arrondissement (Metro République, lines 3, 5, 8, 9, 11)
• Price: Baguette tradition approx. €1.30, sweet pastries €3–4
• Open: Mon–Fri 6:45–20:00 (closed weekends!)

Haute Pâtisserie and a visual feast

While a bakery is for everyday bread, a pâtisserie is a boutique reminiscent of a jewellery store. An absolute phenomenon is Cédric Grolet. His hyperrealistic desserts (trompe-l’œil), which look exactly like real fruit, are the most photographed thing on Parisian Instagram, but they taste even better than they look. Beneath a thin chocolate shell hides a fluffy mousse and an explosive centre. The quiet ruler, meanwhile, is Pierre Hermé and his perfect Ispahan-flavoured macarons (rose, raspberry, lychee).

💡 Tip: Gigantic queues form outside Cédric Grolet’s boutiques (by the Opéra and the Louvre) an hour before opening. If you don’t want to wait, split forces. One of you joins the queue while the other enjoys a coffee in a nearby park.

• Where to find it: Cédric Grolet Opéra, 35 Avenue de l’Opéra, 2nd arrondissement
• Price: One Grolet dessert costs around €17, a Hermé macaron approx. €3

The ice cream legend Berthillon

Good ice cream can rescue even the most exhausting day, and in Paris you won’t have to compromise at all. Berthillon ice cream on the Île Saint-Louis is an institution that the Chauvin family has run since 1954. They have an unbelievable eight kinds of chocolate ice cream. Their dark chocolate sorbet (chocolat amer) is vegan, without a drop of milk, yet creamier than most classic ice creams.

💡 Tip: The main Berthillon salon is strictly closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. In summer they also tend to take a holiday. Don’t throw in the towel, though – many surrounding cafés on the island are licensed and sell original Berthillon ice cream from their freezers.

• Where to find it: 29-31 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th arrondissement (Metro Pont Marie, line 7)
• Price: A scoop of ice cream around €3.50

The third-wave coffee revolution

The city on the Seine has been washed over by the third coffee wave, and dozens of independent roasters have sprung up. This is where you’ll get a perfect flat white. The pioneer is the café Ten Belles by the Canal Saint-Martin. KB Coffee Roasters near Pigalle has a great location. KB’s huge advantage is their large outdoor terrace, where you’ll find an ideal refuge and can drink your coffee in peace away from the bustle of the street. Extremely photogenic, meanwhile, is Café Kitsuné in the gardens of the Palais-Royal.

💡 Tip: If you order a cappuccino after lunch in a traditional brasserie, the waiter will bring it but mentally file you under “tourist”. In modern specialty spots (like Ten Belles), though, that doesn’t apply – there a flat white is an all-day standard and they automatically offer oat milk.

• Where to find it: Ten Belles, 10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles, 10th arrondissement
• Price: Flat white €5, espresso €2.50

Historic cafés in Saint-Germain

Here you pay for the aura and the history. On Boulevard Saint-Germain stand two of the greatest legends: Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots. This is where existentialism was born, where Sartre and Hemingway wrote. From a culinary point of view the coffee lags a little behind the modern roasters and is fiercely expensive, but the experience is one of a kind. Waiters in classic black-and-white uniforms with long aprons dart between the tables. Sitting on the terrace and watching the street go by is a programme in itself.

💡 Tip: Inside the historic cafés the tables are crammed five centimetres apart and it’s dim. Always ask for a table outside on the terrace (en terrasse), where there’s more room and where the real Parisian street show plays out.

• Where to find it: 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 6th arrondissement (Metro Saint-Germain-des-Prés, line 4)
• Price: Espresso on the terrace around €5, hot chocolate €9

Practical info: Etiquette, reservations and how not to get caught out

Paris has its unwritten rules, and following them makes you a welcome guest. Ignore them and you’ll leave with the feeling that the French are arrogant. Emily in Paris exaggerates it, of course, but a basic respect for the culture is simply expected here.

The golden Bonjour rule and tap water

This is absolutely crucial, and we’ve experienced it firsthand: start every entry into any venue with a loud Bonjour. Without a greeting you’re simply thin air to the staff. At the table another great Parisian habit applies. You don’t have to spend on pricey bottled water. Ask for “une carafe d’eau” (a carafe of tap water). It’s your right, the restaurant must provide it free by law, and the water in Paris is very good quality. As for tipping, the bill already includes a service charge (service compris). No tip is left, but for exceptional service you put a few euros in cash on the table.

How and when to book a table

Parisians eat precisely on time. Lunch kitchens run strictly from 12:00 to 14:30. After half past two, only bakeries or tourist traps will save you. Dinners start at 19:30 at the earliest, but restaurants only really fill up around half eight. Reservations at the better bistros are made online (often via The Fork app), and for the most sought-after ones (like Septime or Pink Mamma) you have to set an alarm for the exact day and hour the tables open (often a month in advance).

Tourist traps and food scams

Never, but really never, eat at the restaurants right on the Place du Tertre in Montmartre. It’s the saddest tourist trap in the whole city, with overpriced, rushed food. Likewise, watch out during a picnic on the lawns of the Champ de Mars below the Eiffel Tower. Scammers commonly operate there with fake petitions (pretending to be deaf-mute) or people who suddenly “find” a gold ring on the ground and want to sell it to you. Ignore them and hold on tightly to your bags.

Where to go next

If you now have a clear idea of what to taste in Paris, it’s time to plan the rest of your trip. Find out what to see in Paris and which sights you can skip with a clear conscience. If you’re short on time, we’ve put together a detailed itinerary for Paris in 3 days. And if you’re travelling with the little ones, our guide to Paris with kids will walk you through the pitfalls of pram travel and show you the best playgrounds.

Frequently asked questions

Paris etiquette is something the city will teach you very quickly. When Paris wakes up in the early morning and the scent of clarified butter drifts from corner bakeries into the cool air, you feel as though you’ve wandered onto the set of a perfectly directed film. People in long coats hurry to work, the first guests are already perched at little pavement tables with espressos, and everything looks effortlessly, impossibly chic.

Yet beneath that romantic surface beats a surprisingly strict and intricate system of social rules. You’ll usually discover this the moment you stride enthusiastically into a café, order a cappuccino in English, and are met with the icy stare of a server making it crystal clear that’s not how things are done here.

Paris won’t open its doors simply because you’ve got a loaded credit card. It will open them the moment you agree to play by its rules.

This city rewards those who make an effort. You don’t need to speak fluent French, but you do need to know when to lower your voice, how to break a baguette properly, and why you simply do not walk on the grass in the park. Master a handful of basic gestures and phrases, and you’ll suddenly find that famously frosty Parisian waiter smiling at you and cheerfully warming your toddler’s snack.

So come on — let me share what Lukáš and I learned, sometimes the hard way. 😅

TL;DR

• The golden rule of Bonjour: Never begin any conversation, enter a shop, or step into a lift without this greeting. It is the absolute foundation of all Parisian politeness.
• Waiters are not “Garçon”: Calling them that is a rude, 19th-century insult. Always address staff as Monsieur (sir) or Madame (madam).
• The tip is included: Every bill already contains a “service compris” charge. Leaving a coin or two (1–2 €) on the table is reserved for genuinely exceptional service.
• Never cut a baguette: Bread is placed directly on the table beside your plate and broken by hand — never sliced with a knife.
• The Parisian uniform: Forget bum bags, trail shoes and technical outdoor gear. Locals stick to muted colours (black, beige, navy) and quiet elegance.
• No eating on the Métro: Nibbling a baguette on the street is perfectly fine; unwrapping a sandwich underground is a massive social taboo.
• Pelouse interdite: Means keep off the grass. Park wardens are merciless — one blast of the whistle and you’re off immediately.
• What to skip: Don’t go up the Eiffel Tower (go to Tour Montparnasse instead), avoid restaurants on Place du Tertre, and ignore anyone waving a petition.
• 2026 updates: Notre-Dame Cathedral has reopened after its restoration; Centre Pompidou is closed for five years; and swimming in the Seine is happening this summer.

When to Visit Paris: Seasons & 2026 Calendar

Choosing the right month will shape your mood far more than you might expect. Paris transforms with every season — sometimes quiet and melancholic, other times buzzing with music until the small hours. 2026 is also packed with specific events that could either enrich your itinerary brilliantly or complicate it unexpectedly.

Spring & Autumn: The Safest Bets

If you can choose, plan your trip for April, May, September or October. Spring brings blossom-lined streets and pleasant temperatures perfect for lingering on café terraces. In my opinion, May is the most photogenic month of all.

Autumn has its own irreplaceable magic, thanks to golden light and the return of Parisians from their holidays (the period known as la rentrée). The city buzzes with fresh energy, new exhibitions open, and bistros launch new menus.

💡 Tip: If you’re visiting in spring, bear in mind that the Paris Marathon takes place on 12 April 2026. Traffic in the centre grinds to a halt and many streets are closed. Navigating the area around the Champs-Élysées with a pushchair that day is a proper adrenaline rush.

January & February: Winter for Shopping and Solitude

The start of the year tends to be grey and drizzly, but it has one enormous advantage: crowds are at an absolute minimum. January also brings the Soldes — state-regulated winter sales — when prices in boutiques tumble to a fraction of their usual levels.

Around the turn of February and March, however, it’s best to give the city a wide berth, as Paris Fashion Week descends. Black limousines clog every street, hotel rates triple, and you won’t find a table in any decent restaurant.

💡 Tip: In the first two weeks of January, every bakery sells Galette des Rois (King’s Cake). Hidden inside the flaky almond pastry is a tiny ceramic figurine. Whoever finds it in their slice gets to wear a paper crown.

Summer 2026: Swimming in the Seine & the August Exodus

June is magical in Paris. The headline event is Nuit Blanche (White Night) on 6 June 2026, when the whole city transforms into an open-air gallery and the streets stay alive until dawn. Then on 21 June comes Fête de la Musique, with free live bands performing on every corner.

July and August bring one of the big novelties of 2026. After a historic clean-up of the river, official swimming spots will open directly in the Seine.

August, though? Lukáš and I once arrived in August and found half our favourite spots displaying a sign: fermeture annuelle (annual closure) — the owners had simply headed to the coast. Lesson learned. The city fills up with tourists, and the heat is relentlessly oppressive.

💡 Tip: On the weekend of 19–20 September 2026, the European Heritage Days (Journées du Patrimoine) take place, opening palaces that are normally off-limits. One important caveat: if you’re planning a day trip outside the city, note that Monet’s famous gardens at Giverny are exceptionally and strictly CLOSED on those two days.

Where to Stay in Paris: Safe, Peaceful & Family-Friendly Neighbourhoods

On our first trip with Lukáš and baby Jonáš in the pushchair, we naively booked a hotel near the Eiffel Tower — and endured the three noisiest nights of our lives. Now we know that choosing the right arrondissement determines which version of Paris you actually experience.

Forget the idea of staying directly next to the famous landmarks if you want to absorb the real city atmosphere. For us, the priorities are safety, proximity to parks, and wide pavements where you can manoeuvre a pushchair without zigzagging around wheelie bins.

6th Arrondissement (Saint-Germain-des-Prés): The Golden Family Choice

This is our absolute favourite part of the Left Bank. It’s remarkably peaceful, strikingly beautiful, and you feel completely safe even at midnight. The star attraction for families is the Jardin du Luxembourg, which is paradise for children. You’ll find legendary cafés, old bookshops and luxury boutiques. It’s one of the pricier neighbourhoods, but the quality of life there is absolutely worth it.

Jonáš immediately fell in love with the little wooden sailing boats you can hire to float on the fountain, while Lukáš and I were won over by the ever-present smell of fresh coffee. Everything is conveniently close, and the Métro connects you easily to both banks of the Seine.

3rd Arrondissement (Northern Marais): Local & Trendy

The historic heart of the Right Bank. While the southern Marais (4th arrondissement) heaves with tourists, the northern part around Rue de Bretagne is a genuine oasis. The streets are flat, there are charming little squares, brilliant bakeries, and the famous covered market Enfants Rouges. The neighbourhood is wonderfully tolerant, very safe and full of independent arts and culture.

I remember spending an entire rainy afternoon in a tucked-away crêperie here, feeling completely like a local. The streets aren’t overrun with cars, and the independent boutiques stock the most beautiful little finds.

15th Arrondissement (Vaugirard): Quiet Residential Haven

If you’re looking for more affordable accommodation that still sits within the broader centre and feels completely safe, the 15th arrondissement is a hidden gem. It’s primarily residential, streets are broad, and there are brilliant local markets. You’re within easy reach of the Eiffel Tower yet nowhere near the camera-toting crowds.

We love coming back here especially for the Sunday markets, where local grandmothers do their weekly shop and stallholders will press a sliver of cheese into your hand with a smile. It feels like a quiet Parisian village tucked inside the metropolis.

Specific Hotels That Meet Our Strict Criteria

These hotels were selected by Lucie: the first two we tried ourselves, and the third was enthusiastically recommended by our friend Petra, who stays there every year:

Hôtel des Grands Hommes (5th arrondissement) A gorgeous hotel directly opposite the Panthéon, a short walk from the Luxembourg Gardens. Rooms have classic French charm with floral wallpaper. They offer free travel cots on request and the staff are genuinely lovely. A double room costs around 220 € per night.

Hôtel Henriette (13th arrondissement) A little away from the busiest centre, this design boutique hotel has a hidden inner courtyard where you can enjoy your morning coffee. It’s an incredibly photogenic spot, and they offer family rooms — a rarity in Paris. Rates are around 160 € per night.

citizenM Paris Gare de Lyon (12th arrondissement) If you prefer a modern, tech-forward stay, this is a reliable choice. Rooms are compact but the beds are enormous — wall to wall. Excellent access to Métro line 14 (fully step-free and ideal for pushchairs). A night here costs around 180 €.

Understanding local etiquette often starts the moment you check in. The owners of boutique hotel Hôbou showed us an authentically French approach — full of warm greetings and genuine personal interest that you simply won’t find in a chain hotel. If that kind of personal touch appeals to you, read my detailed review and then check available rooms.

Paris Etiquette in Practice: Rules for Daily Survival

French society runs on details. You could be wearing the latest looks straight off a Paris runway, but one basic communication blunder and locals will instantly file you under “rude foreigner”. There’s no need to panic, though — a few core principles are all it takes.

The Magic Word Bonjour (and Why You Don’t Exist Without It)

This is the single most important paragraph in this entire guide. In France, the greeting Bonjour (Good day) doesn’t just function as a courtesy. It is the key that unlocks communication — a signal that you recognise the person in front of you as an equal, not a machine there to fulfil your requests.

Stepping into a boulangerie? You must say Bonjour, even if you’re already peering at the display. Entering a small boutique? Bonjour. Approaching the till in a supermarket? Bonjour.

If you walk into a café and launch straight into your order, the server will likely ignore you or respond with deliberate coldness. From around 6pm, the greeting shifts to Bonsoir (Good evening).

💡 Tip: When leaving a shop or restaurant, simply walking out won’t do. Good manners require an Au revoir (Goodbye) and ideally a Bonne journée (Have a good day) or Bonne soirée (Have a good evening) — even if you didn’t buy anything.

How to Behave in a Restaurant and at the Table

Gastronomy is a religion in France, and the dining table is its altar. Timing is absolutely critical. Lunch is served strictly between 12:00 and 14:30. Arrive at three in the afternoon and classic bistro kitchens will be closed — you’ll be left with tourist traps whose doors advertise Service Continu (Continuous Service). Dinner starts no earlier than 7:30pm, though locals tend to arrive after 8.

In a restaurant, never seat yourself unless invited to do so. Wait by the entrance, catch the server’s eye, and say “Bonjour, une table pour deux” (Good day, a table for two).

And now for the crucial bit: never call a waiter “Garçon!” (literally “Boy!”). It’s a relic of the 19th century and is considered a genuine insult today. Always address staff as Monsieur (Sir) or Madame (Madam).

When it comes to bread, a baguette is never cut with a knife. You tear it into small pieces by hand. There’s no need to keep it on your side plate — it’s completely normal to rest a piece directly on the bare tablecloth beside your plate. And your hands? They don’t belong in your lap under the table as in many other cultures; instead, your wrists rest on the edge of the table.

💡 Tip: A tip (service charge) is always included in the price of your meal under the item “service compris”. You don’t need to calculate percentages. If you were happy with the service, it’s customary to leave 1–2 € in coins on the table after lunch. Tips are always left in cash — never added on the card reader.

The Parisian Uniform: What to Wear

Elegance in Paris is not about piling on luxury labels with oversized logos. It’s about understatement and quality materials. Locals love a neutral palette: black, navy, camel, cream and grey. The foundation is a well-cut coat, clean shoes and one statement accessory — a quality leather bag or a silk scarf, for example.

What will instantly mark you out as a tourist — and attract the attention of pickpockets?

• A bum bag worn around the waist (if you must have one, wear it across your chest).
• Technical outdoor gear, hiking boots and zip-off cargo trousers. They simply don’t belong in the city.
• Bermuda shorts and cargo shorts on men (Parisians wear full-length trousers even in warm weather, or at most elegant linen shorts).
• Bold logos and slogan tees.

Hair follows the coiffé-décoiffé principle — effortlessly tousled, as though a Parisienne just rolled out of bed and ran her fingers through her hair. In reality, she spent twenty minutes in front of the mirror with a texturising spray. I’ve tried it too. The result was more coiffé-catastrophe, but at least I had a laugh. ☺️

💡 Tip: Trainers are absolutely fine in Paris these days. Locals love classic white styles like Veja, adidas Stan Smith or New Balance — but they pair them with an elegant wool coat or a dress, never with a tracksuit.

Social Faux Pas in Public Spaces

Parisians place great value on their privacy, even in public. They are naturally quieter and more discreet than, say, many American tourists. Loud phone conversations on the Métro or talking over one another at a restaurant table will earn you genuinely annoyed looks.

The underground also has one enormous taboo: eating. While you’re perfectly welcome to nibble the end off a fresh baguette as you walk from the bakery, unwrapping a sandwich on the Tube will earn you looks of pure disgust. Sipping from a water bottle is, of course, absolutely fine.

In parks, keep a close eye on the grass. If you see a sign reading Pelouse interdite (Keep off the grass), take it deadly seriously. Parisian parks are patrolled by uniformed wardens who show no mercy — one sharp blast of the whistle and you’re ejected immediately.

Picnics are permitted only in designated areas, typically in the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont or on the specific lawns set aside for that purpose in the Jardin du Luxembourg.

💡 Tip: Whenever you pass through a door — whether entering a shop or going through the Métro barriers — always glance behind you and hold the door for the person following. It’s an automatic social reflex here, and letting a door swing into someone’s face is considered genuinely rude.

What NOT to Do in Paris (and What to Watch Out For)

The internet is full of lists telling you what to see. Far fewer people will honestly tell you what you can comfortably skip. Some things are nothing more than expensive tourist traps that drain both your energy and your wallet — and then there are the specific scams that tend to cluster around the major sights.

Tourist Traps Worth Skipping

Going up the Eiffel Tower — This sounds like heresy, but don’t bother going to the top. You’re looking at hour-long queues, security checks, a ticket costing 29.40 €, and — crucially — from the summit you can’t actually see the Eiffel Tower itself, which is what makes the Paris skyline so magical. Head to the Tour Montparnasse instead. At 21 €, you ride the fastest lift in Europe to get a 360-degree panorama with the Eiffel Tower sitting perfectly in front of you.

Eating on Place du Tertre (Montmartre) — The little square full of painters on the Montmartre hilltop is picturesque, but eating there is a serious mistake. Restaurants here rely on the fact that you’ll never return, so the food is below average and the prices are stratospheric. Have a coffee at most, then walk a few streets downhill — try the Rue des Martyrs for proper food.

Shopping on the Champs-Élysées — This famous avenue long ago ceased to be the romantic promenade you see in films. It’s now a parade of multinational chains, fast food and tourist hordes. For a genuine Parisian shopping experience in independent boutiques, head to Le Marais instead (particularly Rue des Francs-Bourgeois).

💡 Tip: Don’t even put Centre Pompidou, the famous modern art museum with its exposed pipework façade, on your list. The building closed for a complete five-year renovation at the end of 2025 and won’t reopen until 2030.

The Most Common Street Scams in 2026

Paris is generally a safe city, but around its major landmarks operate very skilled, organised groups. Here are the three most common tricks you need to know about:

The golden ring — You’re walking along the Seine when someone stops you, bends down to the pavement, “finds” a large gold ring, and with an innocent expression asks whether you dropped it. Before you can refuse, they’re pressing it into your hand and explaining they need a few euros for food. The ring is, of course, cheap brass. 😅 Ignore it and walk on.

Friendship bracelets at Sacré-Cœur — On the steps below the basilica on Montmartre, groups of men stand with coloured threads. The moment you get close, they’ll try to grab your wrist and start tying a bracelet around it. Before you know it, the bracelet is knotted tight and they’re aggressively demanding 10 €. Keep your hands in your pockets and say firmly: “Non, merci.”

Fake petitions and charities — Around the Eiffel Tower and at the entrance to the Louvre, you’ll often encounter young women carrying clipboards and pens. They present themselves as deaf-mute and ask you to sign a petition for animal or children’s rights. Once you’ve signed, they demand money — and while you’re distracted, an accomplice checks your pockets.

💡 Tip: Watch out for “tickets” to Notre-Dame Cathedral. Since its reopening, touts — both online and on the street — have appeared selling “skip-the-line” entry passes. Entry to Notre-Dame is and has always been COMPLETELY FREE for everyone. Never buy a ticket from anyone.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to stay in Paris

5 accommodations — hotels and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏨 Hotel

Hôtel des Grands Hommes

Beautiful hotel directly opposite the Panthéon in the 5th arrondissement, close to the Luxembourg Gardens. Rooms have classic French charm with floral wallpaper. They offer complimentary cribs on request and the staff is incredibly friendly.

★★★★ from €220/night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hôtel Henriette

Design boutique hotel in the 13th arrondissement with a hidden courtyard where you can enjoy your morning coffee. It’s an incredibly photogenic place with family rooms, which is a rarity in Paris.

★★★★ from €160/night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

citizenM Paris Gare de Lyon

Modern hotel in the 12th arrondissement with smart technology and compact rooms featuring huge wall-to-wall beds. Excellent access to metro line 14, which is fully accessible and ideal for strollers.

★★★★ from €180/night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Hôbou

Boutique hotel with an authentic French approach full of warm greetings and personal attention. The owners showed the authors genuine family care that you won’t experience at large chains.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🔍 Search

View all accommodations in Paris

Explore all available accommodation options in Paris and find the best one according to your preferences and budget.

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Misunderstandings from Language Barriers

English is far less of a taboo in Paris than it was twenty years ago, but the way you use it matters enormously. Never approach someone with the direct question “Do you speak English?”

Always open with a polite “Bonjour, excusez-moi de vous déranger…” (Good day, I’m sorry to disturb you) and only then ask whether they speak English. The difference in willingness to help will be remarkable.

You’ll also encounter a cultural difference at the theatre or in smaller live-music venues. The French don’t applaud with their hands above their heads or whoop with enthusiasm after a performance. They clap quietly, hands close to the body. Start cheering like you’re at a rock concert and you’ll get very puzzled looks.

💡 Tip: If you’re paying by card in a small bakery or at a market for something under 5 €, always apologise in advance (“Désolé, je n’ai pas de monnaie” — Sorry, I don’t have change). Merchants pay high bank fees on small transactions and genuinely appreciate cash.

Where to Eat: Our Favourite Spots Without Tourist Traps

Finding excellent food in Paris isn’t difficult — but finding somewhere that will welcome a foreigner with a small child with genuine warmth takes a little more hunting. Lukáš and I have tried plenty of bistros where we were merely tolerated rather than made to feel at home.

Here are the places we return to with confidence, knowing we’ll get honest cooking, a friendly smile, and the kind of culinary experience that stays with you long after you’ve gone home.

Bouillon Chartier: A Step Back into Old Paris

This place is a legend, and you owe it to yourself to experience it at least once. It’s a vast 19th-century dining hall where waiters in black waistcoats scribble your order directly onto the paper tablecloth. The noise levels are extraordinary, the tables are packed so close together you’ll inevitably strike up a conversation with your neighbours, and the atmosphere is completely one-of-a-kind.

The food won’t earn a Michelin star, but it’s honest French cooking at a fraction of the price you’d pay anywhere else. The snails and French onion soup are excellent, and they’ll always happily rustle up plain pasta for Jonáš. They don’t take reservations, so arrive just before opening time — otherwise expect a long queue.

Miznon in Le Marais: Vegetarian Heaven in Your Hand

When we’ve had our fill of French cheese, we always head to Le Marais for something Middle Eastern. Miznon is an Israeli bistro famous for baking the finest whole roasted cauliflower in the world. I know that sounds absurdly ordinary, but once you taste it, you’ll understand completely.

The cauliflower comes out beautifully crisp on the outside and impossibly tender within, served alongside perfect pitta stuffed with grilled vegetables and falafel. It’s fast, informal, and while squeezing in with a pushchair is a challenge, you can always grab your food to go and settle on a bench in a nearby square.

L’As du Fallafel: The Classic That Never Disappoints

Staying in the same neighbourhood — because just around the corner is this legendary little window. It might sound like a cliché, but the falafel really is extraordinary and will keep you going for half a day. The queue is long but moves incredibly quickly thanks to a team working with the precision of a well-oiled machine.

We always buy ours to take away and eat in the nearest park, giving Jonáš space to run around. It’s the perfect solution when you can’t face a leisurely two-hour lunch and just need to refuel quickly before the next stretch of exploring.

Practical French Phrasebook (Especially for Parents)

You absolutely do not need to learn fluent French before your trip. A handful of anchor points that show you’ve made an effort is all you need. The list below covers the phrases we actually use ourselves. Pronunciation is shown in square brackets, written to be read naturally by an English speaker.

Essential Phrases & Basic Politeness

A few key words act as a social shield. Using them signals respect for local culture. The difference between Pardon and Désolé is small but important. Use Pardon when squeezing past someone in a crowd or accidentally bumping into them lightly. Use Désolé for a genuine apology — when you’ve made a mistake or can’t help someone.

• Good day: Bonjour [bon-ZHOOR]
• Good evening: Bonsoir [bon-SWAHR]
• Goodbye: Au revoir [oh ruh-VWAHR]
• Please: S’il vous plaît [seel voo PLAY]
• Thank you (very much): Merci (beaucoup) [mair-SEE boh-KOO]
• Excuse me (in a crowd): Pardon [par-DON]
• Excuse me (to get attention): Excusez-moi [ex-kyoo-ZAY mwah]
• I’m sorry: Désolé(e) [day-zo-LAY]
• Do you speak English?: Parlez-vous anglais? [par-LAY voo ong-LAY]
• I don’t understand: Je ne comprends pas [zhuh nuh kom-PRON pah]

💡 Tip: The French link words together fluidly. “S’il vous plaît” doesn’t sound like three separate words — it runs together as something close to “seel-voo-PLAY”. Don’t be afraid to say it quickly.

In a Restaurant or Café

Knowing these phrases will save you real money. Take water, for instance. By law, every French restaurant must provide tap water free of charge. But you need to ask for it correctly. If you simply ask for “de l’eau” (water), they’ll bring you expensive bottled water. The magic words are “une carafe d’eau” — a jug of tap water, always free.

As a vegetarian, I know that France is traditionally a meat-loving country — though that’s changing fast (the legendary Michelin-starred restaurant Arpège went fully vegan in 2026, which is a genuine watershed moment). Even so, it’s worth being able to state your dietary requirements clearly.

• A table for two, please: Une table pour deux, s’il vous plaît [oon TAH-bluh poor duh, seel voo PLAY]
• Tap water (free): Une carafe d’eau [oon kah-RAF doh]
• The menu, please: Le menu, s’il vous plaît [luh muh-NOO, seel voo PLAY]
• I’m vegetarian: Je suis végétarien(ne) [zhuh swee vay-zhay-tah-RYEH(n)]
• A coffee (small espresso): Un café [uhn kah-FAY]
• Coffee with milk (larger): Un café crème / Un café au lait [uhn kah-FAY krem / uhn kah-FAY oh LAY]
• A glass of red wine: Un verre de vin rouge [uhn vair duh vaN ROOZH]
• The bill, please: L’addition, s’il vous plaît [lah-dee-SYOHN, seel voo PLAY]

💡 Tip: Once you’ve finished eating and want to compliment the chef, tell your server “C’est délicieux” [say day-lee-SYUH] (It’s delicious). Watch them melt.

Special Section for Travelling with a Toddler

Travelling with Jonáš means we face entirely different logistical challenges from most tourists. Parisian cafés are small and squeezing in with a pushchair can be a real puzzle. These phrases will save your sanity when the baby is crying and you need to act fast.

• Do you have a high chair?: Avez-vous une chaise haute? [ah-VAY voo oon shayz OHT]
• Where is the baby changing table?: Où est la table à langer? [oo ay lah TAH-bluh ah lon-ZHAY]
• Could you just warm this up, please?: Pouvez-vous juste réchauffer, s’il vous plaît? [poo-VAY voo zhüst ray-show-FAY, seel voo PLAY]
• May I come in with the pushchair?: Puis-je entrer avec la poussette? [pwee-zhuh on-TRAY ah-VEK lah poo-SET]
• Not spicy, please: Pas épicé, s’il vous plaît [pah ay-pee-SAY, seel voo PLAY]
• Nappies / nappy: Des couches [day KOOSH]
• Baby food / purée: Une compote / Une purée [oon kom-POT / oon pyoo-RAY]

💡 Tip: Most traditional Parisian bistros have no baby changing facilities (the loos are typically down a spiral staircase in the basement). If you urgently need to change your baby, head to any large park or the modern self-cleaning public toilets on the street (Sanisettes), which are free of charge and spacious.

In Shops, on the Métro & in Emergencies

This section is purely practical. If you get lost or feel unwell, it helps to know where to turn. Pharmacies (identifiable by the green blinking cross) work brilliantly in France, and pharmacists can often advise you on common ailments without a doctor’s appointment.

• Where is the Métro?: Où est le métro? [oo ay luh may-TROH]
• A ticket: Un billet [uhn bee-YAY]
• How much does it cost?: Combien ça coûte? [kom-BYEH(n) sah KOOT]
• Can I pay by card?: Je peux payer par carte? [zhuh puh pay-YAY par KART]
• I’m just browsing, thanks: Je regarde juste, merci [zhuh ruh-GARD zhüst, mair-SEE]
• Pharmacy: La pharmacie [lah far-mah-SEE]
• It hurts here: J’ai mal ici [zhay mal ee-SEE]
• A temperature / fever: De la fièvre [duh lah FYEV-ruh]
• Call the police: Appelez la police [ah-play lah poh-LEES]

💡 Tip: When you walk into a clothes shop and the assistant asks if you need help, but you just want to browse in peace, smile and say exactly “Je regarde juste, merci.” They’ll immediately give you space.

The Most Photogenic Spots: How to Capture the Best Shots

I remember surfacing from the Métro on Île de la Cité for the first time and nearly letting go of Jonáš’s pushchair because I spun around to photograph a lamp post. Paris is simply unfair — every single corner is worth photographing.

But if you want shots without thousands of tourists in the background, you need to know where to go and precisely when to be there. From my experience in photojournalism, I know that light and timing are everything.

The Eiffel Tower Without the Crowds: Secret Angles

Everyone knows the classic shot from Trocadéro plaza. Try something different this time. Instead of the main esplanade, head to the Passerelle Debilly. This narrow pedestrian bridge gives you a perfect angle on the Tower with the Seine flowing beneath you, and you’ll rarely encounter crowds here.

Another iconic location is the Pont de Bir-Hakeim bridge (Métro line 6). The bridge has two levels: above, green carriages rattle past on the elevated railway, while below, a colonnade of steel pillars frames the Tower perfectly — it looks exactly like a scene from the film Inception.

If you’re after a romantic Parisian street with the Tower’s tip peeking into frame at the far end, make for the cul-de-sac Avenue de Camoens in roughly the 16th arrondissement. It opens onto a small flight of steps, flanked by beautiful townhouses, and there’s complete quiet.

💡 Tip: If you want to shoot long-exposure photos from the Pont Alexandre III with a tripod, arrive just after sunset before it gets completely dark (the so-called blue hour). The golden statues on the bridge glow magnificently against the deepening sky.

Romance on Montmartre

Hilly Montmartre is photogenic from top to bottom. Avoid the main square, though — instead, lose yourself in the side streets.

The most famous spot right now is the pink house La Maison Rose on the corner of Rue de l’Abreuvoir and Rue des Saules. It was once a cabaret and is now a restaurant, and thanks to the series Emily in Paris it draws serious crowds. Aim to arrive before 9am.

The Rue de l’Abreuvoir itself is frequently cited as the most beautiful street in Paris — lined with pastel-coloured houses draped in ivy, with the white dome of Sacré-Cœur rising at its far end.

For something quite different, discover Villa Léandre — a quiet cul-de-sac of art deco cottages with tiny front gardens. You’d never guess you were in a throbbing metropolis; it feels more like somewhere in the English countryside.

💡 Tip: If you’re photographing with a pushchair, Montmartre will be a serious staircase challenge. Use the funicular railway (Funiculaire), which accepts a standard Métro ticket. It saves an enormous amount of energy.

Hidden Lanes and Architectural Gems

One of the most colourful streets in Paris is Rue Crémieux in the 12th arrondissement — a cobbled lane lined with low houses painted in candy shades (pink, yellow, pale blue) that reminds you more of Notting Hill in London than the French capital.

On the Île de la Cité, don’t miss Place Dauphine. This triangular square hides behind the Palais de Justice, with shady trees, benches, locals playing pétanque, and a perfect backdrop for a coffee-in-hand portrait shot. In autumn it has an almost unreal atmosphere.

And for monumental symmetry, stand in Rue Soufflot in the 5th arrondissement. The broad, straight street leads directly to the majestic colonnade of the Panthéon, which at sunset takes on a beautiful golden-honey glow.

💡 Tip: The residents of Rue Crémieux are thoroughly fed up with constant photo shoots and are actively considering closing the street to the public. If you visit, be quick, be quiet, don’t use flash, and under no circumstances sit on anyone’s doorstep.

The Reopened Notre-Dame and the Banks of the Seine

After the devastating fire and years of painstaking restoration, Notre-Dame Cathedral is finally revealed in its full glory once more. Its freshly cleaned and restored façade shines in a way none of us have ever seen before. The best photographs are taken from the bridges on the south side — specifically Pont de l’Archevêché or Pont au Double.

Wonderful framed views of the cathedral also open up through the narrow streets of the Latin Quarter (on the Left Bank), particularly from Rue Galande, where old houses lean in at the foreground and the majestic towers of Notre-Dame form the backdrop.

💡 Tip: For the finest detail shots of Notre-Dame’s façade, arrive just after sunrise. The early morning light falls directly onto the main west front, throwing every newly cleaned statue and gargoyle into sharp, glowing relief.

Practical Information for a Smooth Trip

Navigating Paris with a pushchair gave Lukáš and me a proper headache for the first two days — until we figured out a few things that made everything much simpler. The city has made enormous strides towards sustainability and ecology in recent years, which means fewer cars but also its own quirks when it comes to getting around.

Getting Around & the Pitfalls of the Métro

The Paris Métro is dense and fast, but unfortunately deeply hostile to pushchairs. Most stations have no escalators or lifts — just endless labyrinths of stairs and heavy swing doors. The one fully step-free exception is the sleek purple line 14. If you’re travelling with a toddler, I’d strongly recommend packing an ergonomic baby carrier.

A far better alternative is the above-ground bus network. Buses are spacious, step-free and double as a sightseeing tour.

On the ticketing front, paper carnet tickets are now a thing of the past. Pick up a Navigo Easy contactless card at any RATP ticket office (it costs 2 €) and load it with a book of ten journeys for 17.30 €. You can also pay by tapping your smartphone directly on the reader. If you need a data SIM for your trip, Holafly and Yesim both offer excellent eSIM plans for France.

💡 Tip: For the ultimate sightseeing bus ride at the price of a regular ticket, jump on bus number 69. It passes the Eiffel Tower, the Invalides, the Louvre, the Hôtel de Ville and continues all the way to Place de la Bastille. Bag a window seat and enjoy the show.

Booking in Advance & Safety

In post-Olympic Paris in 2026, one rule applies more than ever before: if you haven’t booked, you won’t get in. The Louvre requires timed-entry tickets bought online in advance (entry costs 22 €), with no walk-up option whatsoever.

The same applies to the popular Musée d’Orsay (16 €). For the famous Paris Catacombs, you need to snap up tickets exactly 7 days before your planned visit — otherwise they’re completely sold out. You can find tours and skip-the-line tickets for most major attractions through GetYourGuide.

On the subject of safety: Paris is a normal major city. During the day you have nothing to worry about, but at night I’d recommend avoiding the area around the northern mainline stations (Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est in the 10th arrondissement) and the quieter back streets around Pigalle. Keep your bag fastened and worn across your body, don’t leave your phone lying on a café terrace table, and you’ll be absolutely fine.

💡 Tip: When visiting the Louvre, skip the main entrance at the glass pyramid where queues are enormous. Use the secret Porte des Lions (Lion’s Gate) entrance on the south side near the river, or the underground entrance from the Carrousel du Louvre shopping centre.

Read More

If you’d like more detail on planning your itinerary, we’ve put together further in-depth guides with specific maps and our favourite routes:

• What to See in Paris: The Complete Guide
• Paris in 3 Days: Detailed Itinerary with Map
• France Road Trip: 7 Days

Frequently Asked Questions