When you cross the Canadian-American border by car and begin descending the Haines Highway from the Yukon towards the ocean, your heart simply stops at the sheer beauty unfolding before you. Lukáš and I chose this classic road trip route, and that moment when turquoise water starts mirroring the deep shadows of towering mountains is something you never forget. The air is so crisp and clean you drink it in with every breath. Every time we return to Alaska, I’m struck all over again by the raw, untamed majesty of this landscape. The northern tip of the famous Inside Passage hides two towns that couldn’t be more different — and yet they make the perfect Alaskan pair. On one side, there’s quiet, fishing-village Haines, brimming with bald eagles, where we arrived from the Canadian side of the mountains. On the other, there’s Skagway, the wild gateway to the Klondike Gold Rush era, where the doors never stop swinging in summer. If you’re planning a trip to Haines and Skagway in Alaska, this guide covers everything you need to know.
I’ve got fourteen tips for you, but first a word of warning — once you find out how much a hotel room costs here, close your eyes for a moment and remember those incredible mountain views. We’ll walk through everything from thousands of raptors on the Chilkat River to a historic train ride into the mountains, plus advice on how to plan the whole thing without breaking the bank. Alaska isn’t cheap, but it’s a love affair that lasts a lifetime.
TL;DR
- Best time to visit: Summer (May to September) for general sightseeing and open attractions, but for nature lovers and photographers, the absolute highlight is November, when thousands of eagles descend on Haines.
- How to get there: The ideal option is a road trip from the Canadian Yukon along the stunning Haines Highway. For travellers without a car, the Alaska Marine Highway System ferry runs from Juneau, or you can take a fast catamaran between Haines and Skagway.
- Two different faces: Haines is a quiet town with authentic Tlingit culture and rugged wilderness. Skagway is a buzzing tourist hub packed with Gold Rush history and massive cruise ships.
- Top experiences: The White Pass Railway train ride in Skagway (book well in advance) and eagle watching at the Chilkat Preserve in Haines.
- Budget: Brace yourself for high prices. A ferry crossing without a car costs around $49 (approx. €46), the historic train ride is over $135 (approx. €125), and accommodation in peak season rarely drops below €160 per night.
When to Go and How to Actually Get Up North
Planning a trip to Alaska requires a bit of strategic thinking and a lot of early booking, because the season here is incredibly short. Skagway has just over a thousand residents in winter and feels like a ghost town, but the moment the first massive cruise ships arrive in May, the daytime population can swell by four thousand people. If you want to enjoy all the attractions, restaurants and hassle-free travel, aim for between May and September. However, if you want to witness the largest gathering of bald eagles on the planet, you’ll need to head to Haines in November, when the famous festival takes place.
Getting here is half the adventure. Lukáš and I drove in from Whitehorse in Canada via Haines Junction. The drive along the Haines Highway offers some of the most breathtaking mountain scenery you’ll ever see and gives you incredible freedom. If you don’t have a car, you can reach Haines from Juneau either by small plane or on the state-run Alaska Marine Highway System ferry. The crossing takes just under five hours and costs roughly $49 (about €46) for a walk-on passenger. The ferry works like a Nordic public transport system, and the views of glaciers from the deck are priceless. From Haines, a private fast catamaran runs to Skagway in just 45 minutes, making them a perfect pair for a day trip. But buy your summer ferry tickets as soon as the booking system opens — seats vanish in the blink of an eye! For travellers coming from the UK, the easiest route is to fly into Seattle (direct flights run from London Heathrow with several airlines) and then connect to Juneau or take a domestic flight up to the Yukon to start the road trip.
Where to Stay and How Much It All Costs
Let’s be honest — a holiday in Alaska has never been and never will be cheap, and we need to make peace with that right from the start 😅. We paid more for a single night in an average motel than for three nights in Barcelona, and nobody even apologised. But you know what? The nature makes it all worthwhile. For a week-long stay in this area for two people, budget roughly €1,600 to €2,200 just for accommodation, transport and basic meals — and that’s before you’ve paid for any expensive excursions.
Haines is generally a touch cheaper and offers great camping options. If you’re looking for a solid roof over your head, here are three recommendations. For those who love maximum comfort, Aspen Suites Hotel Haines offers modern, spacious rooms. A happy middle ground with gorgeous bay views and wonderfully friendly staff is The Captain’s Choice Motel. And for a tighter budget, the cosy Lynn View Lodge does the job beautifully.
In Skagway, there’s something magical about staying in historic buildings from the late 19th century — you genuinely feel like a gold prospector. For a more luxurious historic experience right in the centre, try the Historic Skagway Inn. Great quality and comfort at a mid-range price comes from the popular Westmark Inn Skagway. Travellers looking for a more affordable yet still very pleasant stay often choose At the White House.
Haines: 8 Places to Visit and Things to Do
While Skagway is like a noisy, fun-packed theme park, Haines is the quiet, rugged older sibling who doesn’t need to prove anything to anyone. This unassuming lumber town of roughly 1,700 residents has held on to its authentic atmosphere, deep Tlingit cultural roots, and offers access to absolutely spectacular wilderness. Let’s dive into the best things you can experience here, whether you’re in the mood for a punishing mountain climb or hunting down quirky museums.
1. Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve (Eagle Paradise)
This is the crown jewel of the entire region. The state preserve protects a vast area and hosts the largest concentration of bald eagles on Earth. From October to December, an incredible 3,500 of these magnificent raptors flock to the Chilkat River. The secret behind this natural wonder is geothermal activity that heats the riverbed from below, keeping parts of the river ice-free even in the most bitter cold.
The eagles gather here for a late salmon run — essentially an all-you-can-eat buffet — and the best spots for photography are the pullouts along the Haines Highway, which follows the river the entire way. Pack a seriously long telephoto lens and, more importantly, warm clothing, because standing for hours in freezing wind with your finger on the shutter is a sport only for the truly dedicated.
2. Alaska Bald Eagle Festival
If you want to combine eagle watching with a cultural experience, plan your trip for early November when the town holds its official festival. The event is organised by a local foundation and, alongside the eagle viewing itself, you can look forward to expert talks, the release of rescued birds back into the wild, and plenty of local food.
During the festival, special shuttle buses run from town to the best viewing spots in the preserve, which is incredibly convenient since roads can get pretty treacherous by November. It’s a wonderful example of how the local community lives in harmony with nature.
3. Climbing Mount Ripinsky (For the Bold Only)
Mount Ripinsky dominates the entire town’s panorama, and if you’re reasonably fit, it’s a challenge you simply can’t refuse. But I’ll be upfront with you: it’s going to hurt. The main route is a 12-kilometre loop with a brutal elevation gain of over 1,000 metres packed into a very short distance.
The terrain is officially rated as very strenuous — after rain it turns into a mudslide of slippery roots — but the view from the summit makes every drop of sweat worthwhile. You’ll see the entire Lynn Canal, glaciers, and the Chilkat River spread out beneath you like a living map. Since you’re moving through prime bear country, following bear safety rules is absolutely essential, and having bear spray within arm’s reach is a must. Little bells on your backpack simply won’t cut it here!
4. Hammer Museum (A World First)
Alaska is full of oddities, and Haines certainly doesn’t disappoint in that department. Right on Main Street, you’ll spot a museum with a six-metre hammer replica out front. It’s the world’s first museum dedicated entirely to hammers, and it’s every bit as bizarre and charming as it sounds.
Admission is $7 (about €6.50), and inside you’ll find over 2,500 exhibits ranging from ancient threshing tools to specialised surgical hammers. The owner is a true enthusiast who talks about hammers with such passion that you’ll inevitably spend far more time here than you originally planned.
5. Fort William H. Seward
History buffs with a thing for military heritage will love this former fort dating back to 1903, which now holds National Historic Landmark status. The US Army decommissioned it right after World War II, but the complex of original buildings arranged around a sprawling parade ground has been beautifully preserved and today forms a picturesque neighbourhood within the town.
You can wander freely, soak up the early 20th-century atmosphere, and admire the handsome wooden officers’ quarters with sea views. Some of the buildings now house galleries or cosy cafés, so grab an afternoon coffee and pretend you live in an officers’ flat overlooking the fjord.
6. Indigenous Culture and the Tlingit Indian Trail
If you’re interested in Alaska’s Indigenous peoples, head about 36 kilometres northwest of Haines to the traditional village of Klukwan. It sits along the Chilkat River and is home to the Tlingit people.
At the heart of the village, you’ll find the modern Jilkaat Kwaan Heritage Center, which showcases stunning carved totems, traditional canoes, and the incredibly rare ceremonial Chilkat blankets. Local guides walk you through the complex clan system and a history stretching back thousands of years. Honestly, this was one of the most powerful moments of our entire trip, because suddenly Alaska stopped being just about nature and became about people.
7. The Easy-Going Battery Point Trail
If you’re travelling with kids, or you simply don’t fancy gasping for air on the brutal climb up Mount Ripinsky, the Battery Point Trail is made for you. It’s a very easy, just-under-4-kilometre walk that takes you through gorgeous coastal rainforest.
The path is flat, fragrant with evergreens, and ends at the scenic pebble beach of Kelgaya Point. From here, you can often spot seals, and if you’re really lucky, whales passing in the distance. It’s the perfect spot for an afternoon picnic.
8. Warning: Kroschel Films Wildlife Center
I’m including this point more as an important warning than a recommendation. You may come across older guidebooks mentioning an animal rescue centre run by filmmaker Steve Kroschel, where visitors could get up close to wolves, wolverines and reindeer.
The problem is that the centre lost its official USDA public exhibition licence in 2024 due to repeated violations of safety and hygiene regulations (including the rather amusing but dangerous escape of a moose named Duck Moses). Before you try planning a visit, thoroughly check the official town website to see whether the centre has regained its certification — you don’t want to drive all the way out there only to find a locked gate.
Skagway: 6 Tips for Experiences in the Footsteps of Gold Prospectors
The moment visitors arrive in Skagway, they feel the shift in energy. This town lives and breathes Klondike history — wooden boardwalks line historic façades, and the air is thick with the smell of grilled meat and fresh beer. Yes, it can sometimes feel like a giant open-air museum packed with cruise ship passengers, but the town wins everyone over regardless. The Gold Rush of 1897–1898 left such a deep mark here that the town still thrives on it today.
1. White Pass & Yukon Route Railway
This is the absolute highlight of any visit to Skagway and, frankly, one of the most spectacular train rides in all of North America. The historic narrow-gauge railway was blasted and carved into the rock with enormous effort and plenty of dynamite back in 1898. The train, with its antique carriages, climbs from sea level to over 900 metres in just 32 kilometres, and the views down into deep canyons are utterly breathtaking.
Book your tickets well in advance! The classic three-hour return trip costs around $135 (approx. €125). If you were to buy the same excursion aboard a cruise ship, the price can easily jump past $230. Rattling along cliff edges in a creaking carriage on the very route gold prospectors once drove their horses is an experience you won’t soon forget.
2. Strolling Through Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park
The entire centre of Skagway along the main drag, Broadway Street, is protected by the US National Park Service. And the best part? Entry is completely free. There’s no blanket admission fee — just pop into the visitor centre, grab a map, and set off on a self-guided walking tour.
The Park Service maintains over twenty original wooden buildings from the Gold Rush era, and you can peek inside many of them — from old saloons and shops to historic brothels.
3. The Extreme Challenge of the Chilkoot Trail
For travellers with adventure in their veins and plenty of time on their hands, this is a legendary route. The Chilkoot Trail stretches 53 kilometres, starting near Skagway at the settlement of Dyea and ending at Lake Bennett across the border in Canada. Thousands of gold prospectors once streamed along this very path, each carrying hundreds of kilograms of mandatory supplies on their backs.
The most famous section is the so-called Golden Stairs, a steep icy slope where men had to carve 1,500 steps into the snow. Today it’s a multi-day, very demanding backpacking trip with a heavy pack. You’ll need a special permit from both the US and Canadian park services to complete it, and these tend to sell out months in advance.
4. Cruising to the Glaciers at Tracy Arm Fjord
A cruise to Tracy Arm is a jaw-dropping spectacle where you won’t know where to look — a narrow fjord hemmed in by towering cliffs, and at the end, the blue Sawyer Glaciers that look like something from another planet. A full-day trip on a small vessel costs around $329 (approx. €305), but it’s worth every penny.
Smaller catamarans, unlike the massive ocean liners, can weave between floating icebergs right up to the towering glacier wall. You’ll often witness enormous chunks of ice the size of a block of flats calving into the water, and the thunderous crack that echoes around the fjord sounds like a cannon shot.
5. An Escape to Norwegian Petersburg
If the summer crowds in Skagway feel too overwhelming, here’s a secret local tip. Head off the main tourist trail south to the town of Petersburg on Mitkof Island. Large cruise ships can’t reach it due to shallow waters, so it enjoys blissful tranquillity and is home to a community of about three thousand locals.
The town was founded by Norwegian immigrants and still retains a strong Scandinavian character to this day. In May, the Little Norway Festival takes over, featuring Norwegian folk dances, open-faced sandwiches, and the utterly surreal competition of throwing raw herring at a target. It’s the kind of Alaskan quirk you can’t help but fall in love with.
6. Fast Catamaran Between the Two Towns
A clever bit of logistics is to use the private Haines-Skagway Fast Ferry. Instead of dedicating separate days to each town and paying for two different accommodations, you can hop between them easily.
The ferry takes foot passengers only, the crossing takes 45 minutes, and it gives you amazing flexibility. You can sleep in quieter, cheaper Haines, zip over to Skagway by fast boat in the morning, ride the historic train, grab a fantastic burger, and cruise back to your woodland retreat in the evening — all without having to drive the long way around the enormous fjord.
Where to Eat and Drink Well
Alaskan cuisine is all about seafood, massive portions of meat, and excellent local beer. Since you’ll need to refuel properly after all those hikes, here’s a breakdown of our favourite spots by mood and budget.
Restaurants in Haines
If you get hungry in Haines, you certainly won’t be short of options. We tried just about everything from fancier dinners to street food stalls, and the quality genuinely surprised us.
- For a romantic dinner for two: Head to The Pilot Light. They do fantastic modern cuisine with a strong focus on local ingredients and a lovely atmosphere for an evening over wine.
- Family-friendly: Lighthouse Restaurant sits right in the harbour, so you get views of boats cruising through the Lynn Canal. They serve reliable classics — excellent fish and chips and juicy burgers that’ll fill you up even after a full day on the trails.
- Where the locals go: For morning coffee and legendary breakfast burritos, you have to visit Mountain Market & Cafe. It’s an institution where you’ll rub shoulders with every lumberjack and guide in town. In the afternoon, check out Sarah J’s, a wonderfully relaxed café.
- When you’re watching the pennies: Look for the Big Foot Dogs stand. It’s right on the street, they make proper Alaskan hot dogs, and for a few dollars you’ll eat till you burst.
Restaurants in Skagway
In Skagway, the food scene is all about hearty calories and Gold Rush atmosphere. The fare is heavier, honest, and built to refuel you after a full day clambering over hills.
- A touch of luxury, prospector-style: Olivia’s at the Skagway Inn is a historic bed and breakfast with a truly beautiful restaurant. The kitchen turns out superb fish and fresh vegetables — something of a rarity in Alaska.
- Beer and mountains of food: An absolute classic is the mighty Skagway Brewing Co. Be sure to try their Spruce Tip Blonde Ale — a wonderfully refreshing beer brewed with young spruce tips. It’s been a house staple forever and pairs perfectly with their ribs.
- A rowdy evening out: For a proper Alaskan pub experience, just push through the doors of Bonanza Bar & Grill. It’s packed, it’s loud, and they do cracking burgers.
- Breakfast of champions: Before the morning train ride, the ideal stop is Sweet Tooth Café. A classic old-school American diner where they pour filter coffee from a glass pot and serve pancakes the size of dinner plates.
Practical Travel Tips (How to Save Money and What to Arrange)
Lukáš and I travel pretty intensively, and over the years we’ve found a handful of services we simply can’t do without. Planning a trip to Alaska demands precision, so here are some of our tried-and-tested helpers.
Finding Flights
We always start our flight search on Kiwi — no debate — because flights to Alaska are complicated cocktails of different airlines, and Kiwi handles the mixing for you. Flights here typically involve multiple connections, so keep a close eye on layover times to avoid getting stranded at an airport. From the UK, most routes go via Seattle, which is the main gateway hub for all of Alaska. I’d recommend leaving at least three hours for your connection there, because US immigration can take its sweet time.
Car Hire
If you’re planning a road trip through the Canadian Yukon and an overland crossing into Haines, you’ll need a decent car (ideally a 4×4, though a standard SUV will do in summer). We’ve had consistently good experiences with RentalCars, which we use all over the world. It neatly compares offers from all the major rental companies at the airport.
