Lukáš and I have been coming back to Bohemian Switzerland regularly for years now, and a Northern Bohemia holiday never fails to amaze us — especially the way the majestic Pravčická Gate reveals itself when you reach it along the forest trail. It is exactly the kind of place where, after a hike, we happily tuck into our favourite fried cheese with fries, sit down with a view over the valley, and soak up that incredible sense of calm that Northern Bohemia radiates.
But this vast region offers so much more than just the sandstone cliffs near Hřensko. You’ll find deep forests, extinct volcanoes, mysterious castles and crystal-clear lakes that a lot of people don’t even know about, so you could spend weeks here and still have plenty left to discover.
I’ve put together a big guide for 2026, taking you to the most beautiful spots from the Lusatian Mountains all the way to the Bohemian Paradise. You’ll learn which lakes are best avoided in summer, where to stay, how to save on transport, and why it sometimes pays to get up really early in the morning.
TL;DR
- Sandstone cliffs and viewpoints: Pravčická Gate and the Kamenice Gorges are absolute classics, but the Prachov Rocks or the Jetřichovice viewpoints are well worth exploring too.
- Castles and history: the imposing Kost Castle, romantic Bezděz above its lake, and mysterious Trosky form the region’s unmistakable skyline.
- Algae-free swimming: Mácha Lake struggles with water quality, but flooded quarries like Lake Milada, Most or Barbora offer perfectly clean water all summer long.
- Mountains and lookout towers: a hike up Ještěd or a wander through the beech forests of the Jizera Mountains simply can’t be missing from your itinerary.
- Travelling with kids: Liberec Zoo, iQLANDIA or the barrier-free Fénix viewpoint will keep families entertained for days.
- Free transport: if you stay two nights in Bohemian Switzerland, you get the so-called DÚKpass for free travel across the whole Ústí Region.
When to visit Northern Bohemia
Northern Bohemia is gorgeous all year round, but if you want to experience the region at its best and without being squeezed by the crowds, the ideal months are May, June and September. The lake water is already pleasantly warm, spring greenery is fresh and vivid, and you’ll dodge the main rush of families with school-age kids. May and June in particular offer the most peace on the most popular hiking trails.
During the summer holidays, be prepared for the fact that Hřensko and the area around Pravčická Gate get incredibly busy. If you come in August, you need to be at the turnstiles first thing in the morning, otherwise you’ll spend hours in queues or even miss out on boat tickets, since capacity is very limited. Most people head into the deep gorges between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., so ideally avoid that window.
To explore the whole region, set aside ideally seven to ten days, because the distances between Bohemian Switzerland and the Bohemian Paradise are fairly large and you won’t cover everything from a single base. You could, for example, split your stay into three days by the sandstone cliffs, two days in Liberec, and the rest somewhere by the water.
If you’re planning a winter visit, keep in mind that many castles and the gorges are, understandably, closed. On the other hand, the snow-covered Jizera Mountains offer perfect calm and beautifully groomed tracks for cross-country skiers. In summer, by contrast, keep a close eye on the current fire-risk warning, which strictly limits movement in the forests when the risk is high. Once a high level is in force, you may only walk on marked trails, and entering the forest at night is completely forbidden.
Where to stay in Northern Bohemia
Finding good accommodation is the absolute foundation of any successful holiday. That’s why I’ve picked out a few great, tried-and-tested options across the whole region, all with the best reviews. I know all too well how lovely it is after a day out to sink into a clean bed in the evening, knowing an amazing breakfast awaits you in the morning.
Right on the edge of the national park sits the wonderful Penzion Zvoneček in Vysoká Lípa, where a double room costs around €90 a night. Reviewers repeatedly praise the incredibly kind owner and the fantastic breakfasts made from local ingredients. If you’re after some relaxation after your hikes, try the peaceful Penzion Mezi buky in Chřibská (around €60 a night), which has a superb sauna and makes a great starting point towards the Lusatian Mountains.
For families with kids, the absolutely ideal choice is Farma Růžová near Děčín. Parents rave about the generous royal breakfasts and the very cuddly animals the kids can visit straight from their room. If, on the other hand, you crave comfort right by the water, head to the Hotel Port in Doksy. This renowned four-star resort (around €160 a night) boasts a private sandy beach and a large indoor pool.
In the Bohemian Paradise, the best value for money is at the U Zlaté brány guesthouse in Libuň, near the Prachov Rocks. Visitors often mention the owner’s unbeatable hospitality and the pleasant wellness area. And if you’re looking for something truly unique, you can stay right inside the iconic tower of Hotel Ještěd. A night in the clouds costs around €190, but bear in mind it’s more of an experience than pure comfort. Most of the historic rooms have shared bathrooms in the corridor, and powerful outdoor floodlights may shine into your windows at night.
Northern Bohemia holiday: the 15 most beautiful places
Let’s finally get to the concrete tips on everything you can see and experience in this varied region. I’ve prepared a list of fifteen places that combine natural wonders with historical gems, along with the most important practical information for this year’s season.
1. Pravčická Gate
Pravčická Gate is the absolute symbol of the whole region. With an impressive span of 26.5 metres, it’s the largest natural rock arch in continental Europe. It’s a place that breathes incredible romance — even the famous Danish fairy-tale writer Hans Christian Andersen once strolled here. Entry costs 125 CZK (about €5) for adults and 50 CZK (about €2) for children and seniors. The grounds are open daily from late March to October, 10:00 to 18:00.
But I have to warn you strongly about the huge crowds. The only access route leads through the historic Sokolí hnízdo (Falcon’s Nest) chateau, which Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen had built back in 1881. If you arrive at ten in the morning, you’ll most likely end up standing in a long queue on the narrow stairs. Climbing onto the sandstone arch itself has been strictly forbidden for years due to its fragility.
💡 Tip: Plan your trip so you’re at the ticket office ideally right in the morning before ten, or else late in the afternoon. That’s when the biggest crowds thin out and you can enjoy the magical atmosphere in peace. The best views open up from the surrounding rock platforms, from where you can comfortably photograph the gate in all its beauty. You can get here from Hřensko by bus — just get off at the Tři prameny stop and head uphill on foot.
2. The Kamenice Gorges
The Wild Gorge offers an utterly magical punt ride through a deep rocky canyon about 450 metres long. The season runs from 1 April to 1 November. The boats operate daily from 9:00 to 17:30, and a big advantage is that you don’t need any advance booking for this ride. Entry costs 200 CZK (about €8) for adults and 100 CZK (about €4) for children.
Good news for families with younger children: the friendly boatmen take a folded pushchair onto the boat completely free of charge. During the ride you’ll hear a witty commentary about the sandstone formations, whose shapes resemble various animals or fairy-tale figures. The whole atmosphere of the shady canyon is incredibly refreshing in the summer heat and offers a welcome escape from the sun.
💡 Tip: The more famous Edmund Gorge has a completely different set-up and opens this year only on 18 June. There, entry is permitted only with a guide, for very limited groups of twenty-five people. A ticket costs 400 CZK (about €16), you have to buy it directly at the entrance in Hřensko, and it often sells out early in the morning. The village of Hřensko regularly posts the current capacity on its social media, so it’s definitely worth following their profiles in advance.
3. The Fénix viewpoint and the Mill Trail
After the major devastating fire of 2022, the popular Gabriela Trail is sadly still closed. But the national park has prepared a great alternative in the form of the Mill Trail leading from Mezní Louka. It takes you right through the recovering burn site, where a surprisingly fast-growing young forest full of birches and oaks now thrives. Nature is showing off in full force here, demonstrating just how quickly it can bounce back from such an enormous catastrophe.
The biggest draw of this route is the brand-new Fénix viewing platform, opened to the public only recently. It has a great telescope pointed straight at the cliffs near Pravčická Gate. But the very best thing about it: coming from the village of Mezná, the viewpoint is completely barrier-free. You can reach it easily with a pushchair or by bike, which is a huge advantage for families in an otherwise very hilly national park.
💡 Tip: Since April there’s also a brand-new cross-border hiking route. This stretch of more than two kilometres links the Fénix viewpoint with the German educational grounds in Saxon Schmilka. The path leads down a steep forest slope right by the state border and is absolutely ideal for a more adventurous full-day trip without big tourist crowds.
4. The Jetřichovice viewpoints
If you’re after a slightly quieter alternative to bustling Hřensko, the Jetřichovice viewpoints are the right choice. The trio of famous summits — the Marie, Wilhelmina and Rudolf viewpoints — offer breathtaking vistas over the rolling, forested landscape of the national park. The iconic Marie viewpoint also underwent careful maintenance in May, when its wooden summit gazebo got a fresh coat of oil, so it once again gleams far and wide.
The climb up to the gazebos is a bit of a workout, as the paths run over steep stone steps and narrow little trails. But the view from the top is definitely worth the effort. During August, the National Park Administration also organises guided walks with a local ranger, a great chance to learn plenty about the area’s unique nature.
💡 Tip: When you come back from your hike pleasantly tired, head to the local swimming spot right in Jetřichovice on the Chřibská Kamenice river. According to the water-quality authorities, it has consistently excellent, clean water for swimming. You’ll find wonderful peace there, entry is minimal, and you’ll reliably avoid the masses heading for the big lakes. Don’t expect a lifeguard, but the refreshment after a cliff hike is simply perfect.
5. The Tisá Rocks
Not far from Děčín lies a fantastic sandstone rock town you might recognise from the silver screen. It was in the Tisá Rocks that the famous winter scenes from the Hollywood film The Chronicles of Narnia were shot. As you walk through the narrow corridors between the tall towers, you really do feel as though you’ve stepped into a completely different, magical world, where a fairy-tale creature might be waiting around the corner.
The grounds offer two main loops, simply named the Small and Large Rocks. Both routes can be comfortably walked even by families with children, as the elevation gain isn’t dramatic and the paths are well maintained. You pay entry at the ticket office by the entrance, and the fee is very friendly. The whole visit, with photo stops, takes roughly two to three hours of very slow walking. This maze of rock towers, dark caves and deep overhangs sparks children’s imagination like few other places.
💡 Tip: Definitely grab a map at the ticket office with the names of the individual rock formations. Hunting for the Elephant’s Foot or the Frog’s Crown is just as much fun for adults as for little kids.
6. Mácha Lake and Bezděz Castle
The Mácha region draws visitors with the romance of the poet Karel Hynek Mácha, but this year I have to add one very honest warning. Mácha Lake is fairly shallow and warms up quickly in summer, which unfortunately suits green algae rather well. The Liberec health authorities reported the presence of cyanobacteria at practically every measurement in the 2026 season, right from the start of June, and at all five main beaches at once. By the end of June the water temperature even shot up to an incredible 29 °C. The previous year there was even a strict swimming ban at the popular Borný beach, so before you go, always check the latest ratings and have a plan B ready.
Luckily, you can lift your spirits with a trip to the magnificent Gothic Bezděz Castle, which towers on a hill right above the lake. Entry without a guide costs 180 CZK (about €7) for adults and 50 CZK (about €2) for children, but watch out for the access path. The climb from the car park is a genuinely honest ascent over large rocks, so definitely leave the pushchair down in the car and carry smaller children in a carrier instead.
💡 Tip: If you plan your trip well, you can even save money. On Sunday 30 August and 27 September 2026, entry to Bezděz is completely free — you just have to reserve your free ticket in advance through the online pre-sale. What’s more, on 22 August a magical Castle and Chateau Night takes place here, including a unique concert on crystal bowls right in the Gothic chapel.
7. Trosky and Kost Castle
The Bohemian Paradise is home to two utterly different but equally fascinating castles, lying about twenty kilometres apart. Thanks to its two towers, the Maiden and the Crone, built on steep basalt volcanic necks, Trosky is visible far and wide. You can explore it on your own without a guide for 180 CZK (about €7). The Gothic Kost Castle, by contrast, is hidden in a deep valley surrounded by forests and sandstone. It’s considered one of the best-preserved castles in the country, accessible only with a guide, and open Tuesday to Sunday, 9:00 to 17:00.
A big point of interest at Kost Castle is that dogs on a lead are allowed in too — even on the indoor tour routes, and completely free of charge at that. That’s an absolute rarity among Czech state and private monuments, one that dog owners will really appreciate. If you get hungry after the tour, the U Draka restaurant with a large outdoor terrace operates right below the castle, where you can take a rest.
💡 Tip: Just like at Bezděz, at Trosky too, entry to the grounds is completely free on Sunday 30 August and 27 September 2026. Don’t forget to book your free ticket online in advance, though, as capacity is limited for understandable reasons.
8. The Prachov Rocks
The Prachov Rocks are the absolute heart of the Bohemian Paradise and offer some of the most beautiful sandstone labyrinths in the whole country. In high summer season you’ll pay 200 CZK (about €8) per adult and 100 CZK (about €4) for all-day parking. The great thing is that both the ticket and the parking permit are valid all day, so you can walk one loop in the morning, drive off somewhere nearby for a good lunch, and calmly return to the rocks in the afternoon.
The rock town opens as early as 7:00 in the morning, and believe me, that first early hour is practically empty — a huge luxury in the summer season, well worth the earlier wake-up. Adventure-seekers should take the green loop through the famous, narrow Mouse Hole. Families with small children will appreciate the comfortable blue route, which is well walkable and the only one you can manage with an off-road pushchair.
💡 Tip: If you want to avoid the main tourist rush at the big central car park, drive to the smaller ticket office by the Bohemian Paradise Nature Museum. Access into the rocks from there is considerably calmer. In late October, the family event Pelíšek’s Spooky Forest takes place here, a great addition to autumn outings.
9. Ještěd and Liberec
The silhouette of the TV transmitter on the summit of Ještěd, at 1,012 metres, is utterly unmistakable and forms the symbol of Liberec. This unique building by architect Karel Hubáček, which won the prestigious international Auguste Perret Prize, is rightly a national cultural monument and Building of the 20th Century. The key piece of information for this year, though, is that the old cable car still isn’t running, so you have to get up there either by car, by bus, or by walking up this honest hill on foot. There is a shortcut, though: the Skalka chairlift takes you up to 892 metres (from 150 CZK / about €6 for the ride up online; pushchairs, bikes and dogs free) and from there it’s just under half an hour’s walk to the transmitter.
Your reward will be a gorgeous panoramic view in every direction. Inside the transmitter there’s also the Nad oblaky (Above the Clouds) restaurant, which opens daily at 11:00, so you can round off your trip with lunch and a view. A new cable car is thankfully being planned. It will be a modern glass cabin for a hundred people suspended on two ropes, which will take you up all the way from the tram terminus in Horní Hanychov. But according to current plans, we won’t get to ride it until the end of the decade at the earliest, so don’t count on it for your next holiday.
💡 Tip: The weather at the summit is often the complete opposite of what it’s like down in the city. Before you set off up the hill, always check the online webcam. Don’t let thick fog and cold catch you out on top while the sun’s shining in Liberec.
10. The Jizera Mountains
The Jizera Mountains are a perfect paradise for everyone who loves deep forests and quiet without tourist crowds. Few people know that the local Jizera Mountains Beech Forests national nature reserve was even inscribed on the prestigious UNESCO list in 2021, thanks to its old, untouched beech forests. Wandering here in autumn, when the leaves turn gold and red, is a visual experience for a lifetime. What’s more, the mountain chalets serve fantastic steamed yeast dumplings with fresh blueberries that are simply impossible to resist.
A lovely starting point is the picturesque hamlet of Jizerka, set among peat bogs below the basalt hill of Bukovec. The original folk architecture of mountain cottages has been preserved here, and it’s a place where you’ll see an amazingly clear starry sky at night. The mountains are also crisscrossed by hundreds of kilometres of cycle trails, which in winter turn into the famous Jizera Cross-Country Ski Highway with perfectly groomed tracks.
💡 Tip: Try a trip to one of the old glassworks, which are an inseparable part of the Jizera Mountains’ history. The glassmaking tradition gives this rugged region its true mountain character, and the local glass museums can keep you entertained through a whole rainy afternoon.
11. Lakes for swimming: Milada, Most and Barbora
If the news about the worsened water quality in Mácha Lake disappointed you, I have the perfect replacement. The reclaimed coal quarries in the Ústí region offer fantastically clean water. Lake Milada near Ústí nad Labem covers 252 hectares, has beautiful pebble beaches, and the health authorities confirmed excellent water quality at every single measurement this summer. There’s also a great ten-kilometre cycle path around the lake, so you can easily combine cycling and swimming.
Lake Most reports similarly great conditions, dazzling with a respectable depth of 75 metres and boasting the cleanest water in the whole region in 2026. We mustn’t leave out the Barbora reservoir near Jeníkov either, where you’ll find excellent facilities for sailing and a diving centre. But if you’re travelling with smaller children, the absolute winner is Kamencové Lake (Alum Lake) in Chomutov. As one of the few natural swimming spots, it has lifeguards at two fixed stations.
💡 Tip: These new large lakes, which formed on the sites of former deep quarries, mostly don’t have much natural shade yet, because the trees on the banks are still growing. So don’t forget to pack your own parasol or beach tent to avoid getting sunburnt.
12. The Central Bohemian Highlands and Panská skála
The landscape of the Central Bohemian Highlands looks very dramatic thanks to its extinct volcanic cones, and the highest peak, Milešovka, offers what many consider the most beautiful panoramic view in the country. The way up is admittedly very steep and the hill fully earns its reputation as the windiest peak in the land, but the view over the wide surroundings will definitely take your breath away.
A completely different geological marvel awaits near Kamenický Šenov, where the famous Panská skála rises up. You surely know these famous basalt organ pipes from the fairy-tale film The Proud Princess. Their regular hexagonal columns look as if someone had stacked them artificially. The site is freely accessible, so it makes a perfect stop for a shorter afternoon trip, and it’s just a short walk from the car park.
💡 Tip: Fruit and wine also thrive in the Central Bohemian Highlands. In Roudnice nad Labem you’ll find the Lobkowicz Chateau Winery, which has been operating since 1603, making it the oldest family winery in the country. By prior arrangement, you can book a tour of the historic cellars with a tasting of excellent local wine.
13. Děčín and Ústí nad Labem
These two big North Bohemian cities offer far more than just industrial history. In Děčín, don’t miss the intimate, beautifully forested zoo, which spreads high on the hill on the Shepherd’s Wall. Entry in summer season costs a pleasant 150 CZK (about €6), but parking capacity up by the entrance is very limited. It’s worth leaving the car down in the centre and walking up through the romantic Jahn viewpoint, from where you’ll see the whole city. Just note that dogs aren’t allowed here for safety reasons.
Ústí nad Labem, meanwhile, boasts the Větruše excursion chateau, where a lovely wellness with massages now operates. From the terrace there’s a great view over the Elbe valley and over the ruins of the Gothic Střekov Castle. It rises on a steep, 250-metre-high cliff right above the river on the opposite bank, completing the Ústí panorama.
💡 Tip: If you buy a ticket to Děčín Zoo, definitely don’t throw it away. On the same day it also serves as a ticket to the interesting Paradise Islands exhibition, which you’ll find right in the city centre, so you get two great trips for the price of one.
14. Terezín
A visit to Terezín is a powerful and moving experience that, sadly, is firmly tied to the history of this region. The tour of the whole memorial is designed very thoughtfully, and the entry fee of 310 CZK (about €13) for adults is valid for an incredible four days. The reason is quite simple: the grounds of the Small Fortress and the extensive Ghetto Museum simply can’t be sensibly walked through and emotionally absorbed in a single afternoon. Those travelling with family will appreciate the family ticket for 630 CZK (about €26).
The ticket price also includes a very high-quality guided commentary in several languages. Just remember that if you come as a larger group of more than ten people, you have to book a guide well in advance. Twice a year — specifically on 27 January, International Holocaust Remembrance Day, and on the day of the May Terezín Memorial ceremony — entry to all buildings is also completely free for the public.
💡 Tip: Terezín is, of course, not an ordinary tourist attraction but a memorial to the victims, where respect is in order. If you’re heading here with school-age kids, I recommend at least briefly and sensitively discussing the topic of the Second World War and the Holocaust at home before the trip.
15. Zubrnice and Úštěk
If you love the old days and quiet folk architecture, the wonderful open-air museum in Zubrnice is guaranteed to win you over. You can see a historic farmstead with a fully functional old fruit-drying house, which points to the rich tradition of growing and trading fruit in this fertile region. In the romantic stream valley, no fewer than five old water mills have even survived, and you can view the smallest one from the inside too. It practically begs to be combined with lunch at a nearby pub, where we love to tuck into hearty fruit dumplings.
Nearby Úštěk, meanwhile, proudly holds the title of the smallest urban conservation area in the whole of Czechia, and its ancient square with Gothic little houses looks like a perfect film set where time has literally stood still. There’s a campsite and Lake Chmelař by the town. But I have to mention right away that the health authorities reported green algae and reduced water clarity here this year, so it’s not really the place for a longer swim, even though there’s a lifeguard by the water and you’ll find a minigolf course too.
💡 Tip: Zubrnice and Úštěk make an absolutely ideal combination for one easy-going, slow, stress-free day away from big tourist crowds — one you’ll enjoy most towards the end of your holiday.
Northern Bohemia with kids: the best family tips
Northern Bohemia is made for family trips, because on every corner you’ll find something to thrill little explorers. Whether it’s raining or you’re looking for shelter from the summer heat, these tips will save the day.
iQLANDIA and Liberec with kids
Within Northern Bohemia, Liberec is an absolute family certainty where you won’t be bored for a moment. The huge iQLANDIA science centre has its exhibits neatly divided by age, which makes planning much easier. The smaller iQPARK reliably entertains children from three to eight, while the more complex LANDIA and the modern planetarium appeal more to older school kids from eight up — and adults will enjoy themselves here too. For tech-loving teens from 11 there’s also the great FabLab shared workshop.
If rain catches you out on your trip, the combined ticket to iQPARK and the neighbouring Babylon aquapark for 300 CZK (about €12) is an absolute programme-saver. Just don’t forget to book it in time, as demand is enormous. You can park right by iQLANDIA for 120 CZK (about €5) a day, which is significantly cheaper than the surrounding city car parks, some of which charge three times as much. When the kids tire of experiments with water and fire, walk the Crystal Trail, which playfully recalls the famous glassmaking tradition of the whole Liberec area.
On a rainy day, the Ajeto glassworks in Lindava also works well, where children watch glassmakers right by the furnace (guided tour 150 CZK / about €6, family entry 450 CZK / about €18). Just watch out for one trap you won’t find advertised anywhere: from 18 July to 7 August 2026 there’s only a “dry” operation here without glassmakers, so right in the peak holiday season you wouldn’t see any glassblowing.
Wildlife spotting: zoos, safari and white tigers
Liberec Zoo is the oldest in the country, and a visit is a classic you shouldn’t miss. Entry in summer season costs 175 CZK (about €7) for adults, but if you buy tickets online in advance, a family of five saves 25 CZK — always handy, say, for an ice cream. You’ll also avoid the queues at the ticket booths. Seniors over 75 even pay a symbolic 30 CZK (about €1).
The smaller Děčín Zoo, by contrast, is very intimate and calm. It’s beautifully set right in the forest park on the hill above the city. Just bear in mind that dogs aren’t allowed here for safety reasons, and the car park right by the entrance has very small capacity. If you have dinosaur fans at home, they’ll love DinoPark in Liberec (adults 290 CZK / about €12, children 260 CZK / about €11, under threes free), where a 4D cinema and a robotic baby stegosaurus are included in the ticket at no extra charge. And if a safari tempts you, the largest zoo in Czechia is Chomutov Zoopark with its 112 hectares: a ride on the Safari Express among bison, mouflons and Przewalski’s horses costs 100 CZK (about €4) and runs daily over the holidays. Back to Děčín, though: it’s better to leave the car in the centre and take the kids for a nice walk through the Jahn viewpoint. Great news for your wallet: a ticket from Děčín Zoo is also valid the same day for entry to the Paradise Islands exhibition in the city centre, so you can line up two animal experiences at once for the kids.
Swimming: Mácha Lake and the new lakes
With kids at the water, you simply need safety, a gradual entry and, above all, clean water. While Mácha Lake struggled with cyanobacteria and green algae at most measurements throughout the 2026 season, the new reclaimed lakes offer much better conditions. For families with small children, Kamencové Lake (Alum Lake) in Chomutov is an absolute treasure. As one of the few natural swimming spots in the country, it offers a professional lifeguard at two fixed stations, which gives parents far greater peace of mind while relaxing on the beach.
What’s more, thanks to its unique composition, the water here stays clean all summer. The smaller swimming spots in the Šluknov area are also an excellent, calm alternative. For example, the natural site in Velký Šenov offers a children’s paddling pool, slides and clean water from a forest stream. At the new Lake Milada near Ústí nad Labem you won’t find lifeguards, but the health authorities confirmed perfect water quality here and the kids will keep busy on the long pebble beaches — just don’t forget to bring them water shoes.
Around Northern Bohemia with a pushchair
Rock towns full of steps and deep gorges usually don’t go together well with pushchairs, but even so there are some great routes here where you won’t struggle with the wheels. In the Prachov Rocks, stick strictly to the blue-marked loop, which runs along comfortable, surfaced paths to the most beautiful viewpoints and reliably avoids the narrow steps where you’d have to awkwardly carry the pushchair.
In the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, definitely take the Mill Trail to the new barrier-free Fénix viewpoint, which you can reach completely smoothly coming from the village of Mezná. A trip into the Wild Gorge is also a great experience for the whole family. On the other hand, don’t let anyone tell you that you can circle Mácha Lake with a pushchair — the fifteen-kilometre loop largely runs along the road and forest paths. Back to what does work: in the Wild Gorge the friendly boatmen will load a folded pushchair onto the boat completely free, so you can enjoy the ride even with the youngest travellers. Another excellent choice for a pushchair walk is the wide forest paths in the Jizera Mountains or the asphalted ten-kilometre cycle path circling clean Lake Milada.
Where to eat in Northern Bohemia
After a full day out in the fresh air you’re bound to work up an appetite, and North Bohemian cuisine luckily has plenty to offer. In Zubrnice and the surrounding area, be sure to remember the local tradition of fruit-drying and happily order some hearty fruit dumplings, which they make in seemingly every cottage. In the Jizera and Lusatian Mountains, fresh blueberries on yeast cakes and an excellent mushroom scramble reign supreme. The deep local forests are, after all, a mushroom picker’s paradise, and a forest-scented dinner like that hits the spot best after a hike. If you want a sure thing after the climb to Pravčická Gate, Lukáš and I can never resist the classic fried cheese with fries and tartare sauce, served in seemingly every pub here and simply tasting best in the fresh mountain air.
Given the close proximity to the German border and the mountain setting, local establishments often offer meaty Saxon and Ore Mountains specialities, so lovers of traditional roasts and sausages will definitely find something on the menus. As for good drinks, the region can boast a surprisingly long wine-making history. In nearby Roudnice nad Labem sits the Lobkowicz Chateau Winery, which has been operating since 1603, making it the oldest family winery in the country. Their wines from the northernmost Czech sub-region are absolutely excellent, and by arrangement you can even tour the historic cellars with a tasting. If you prefer beer, forget about the mainstream lagers from central Bohemia. Up here in the north you’ll mostly come across local staples like Svijany, the excellent Rohozec beer from Turnov, Konrad from Vratislavice, or Kalich from Ústí. They’re spot-on for an evening sitting on the porch of your chalet.
Practical tips: transport, crowds and bookings
An absolute trump card for travellers this year is the so-called DÚKpass, which a lot of people don’t even know about. The rule is simple: once you stay two nights or more in the Bohemian Switzerland destination, you get a special QR voucher from your host. You easily load it into the DÚKapka mobile app and instantly have an all-day ticket for buses, trains and Elbe ferries across the whole Ústí Region, completely free. It even applies to your arrival day and you can use it, for example, on the busy shuttle bus 441 between Janov and Hřensko. Over a week it saves a family a lot of money. Just watch out for one thing: if the whole group loads their vouchers into a single phone, you then have to travel together the whole time.
If you’re heading to the famous Edmund Gorge, pay attention, because its rules have changed radically from 2026. It now opens only from 18 June, entry costs 400 CZK (about €16) per adult, and you may only go in with a guide in small groups of no more than twenty-five people. Departures are only once an hour, so the tickets sold on site sell out very quickly. The village even warns on its social media that it can’t guarantee your turn will come, so I recommend going instead, without a booking, to the neighbouring Wild Gorge.
Movement in the national park is subject to strict rules to protect the forest. So keep a close eye on the current fire-risk warning. When a high risk is declared, you may only move along marked trails, and a blanket ban on entering the forest applies between 22:00 and 6:00. This year, an elevated fire danger applies to the whole country until the end of August, so forget straight away about grilling sausages or wild camping in the forest — the fines are steep.
Where to go next
If you’re interested in the details of the region’s most famous spots, definitely read our detailed guide Pravčická Gate: 6 tips on what to see and know. On the other hand, for those of you looking to escape the crowds, I recommend the article The Jetřichovice viewpoints: 4 tips on the calmer face of Bohemian Switzerland.
If you’re planning a family holiday with a city base, take a look at Liberec: 8 tips on what to see and do. Anyone craving ridge hikes will find inspiration in The Ore Mountains: what to do + 14 trip tips, and if you still can’t decide, browse our big overview 20 tips on where to holiday in Czechia.
Frequently asked questions
How does the free transport with DÚKpass work?
You’re entitled to free travel throughout the Ústí Region if you book at least two nights in Bohemian Switzerland with partners enrolled in the system. You’ll receive a QR code that you load into the DÚKapka mobile app, and you can immediately ride buses and trains completely free of charge, including the popular shuttle bus in Hřensko. Children under six always ride free regardless.
Which lakes in the region are actually clean?
While Lake Mácha unfortunately had major problems with algae blooms on all beaches again from early June 2026, the reclaimed coal lakes Milada, Most, and Barbora offered perfectly clean and reliable water. For families with young children, I warmly recommend Kamencové Lake in Chomutov, where professional lifeguards even supervise swimmers’ safety.
What’s the difference between Edmund Gorge and Wild Gorge?
Wild Gorge operates regularly from April to November, boat rides cost €8 (200 Kč) and run without prior reservation. Edmund Gorge, on the other hand, has operated since 2026 under a completely new and very strict regime starting June 18. You can only enter with a guide in groups of maximum twenty-five people, tickets cost €16 (400 Kč) and often sell out early in the morning.
Is the cable car to Ještěd already running?
The old gondola lift to Ještěd still isn’t operating; you can get up by car, bus, on foot, or by the Skalka chairlift and then about half an hour’s walk from its upper station. The city of Liberec has already unveiled the complete design of a new and very modern cable car with glass stations for one hundred people, which will be extended all the way to the tram terminus. However, the exact launch date is not yet known.
Can we bring our dog to the castles?
It’s not usually customary at state or private monuments, but the gorgeous Gothic Kost Castle in Bohemian Paradise is fortunately a bright exception. Leashed dogs are permitted not only in the outdoor courtyards but even directly on the interior guided tours. Plus, you don’t pay any special dog admission – they come with you completely free.
When’s the best time to visit Prachov Rocks?
The rock city opens at 7 a.m. and that first morning hour is absolutely ideal because the huge area is practically empty and you’ll avoid the worst heat. If you want to save yourself the stress of parking and crowds at the turnstiles, park instead at the smaller entrance near the Nature Museum, where it’s usually much quieter than at the main entrance.
What’s the situation in Hřensko with fire risk?
The national park administration closely monitors the situation and strict restrictions apply to everyone when a high danger level is declared. You may only move along marked hiking trails and a strict nighttime forest ban from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. is in effect, so wild camping is absolutely out of the question.
What to do when Gabriela Trail is still closed?
Instead of the closed Gabriela Trail, take the newly improved Mill Path, which leads you directly through the rapidly recovering forest in the burned area. Additionally, since 2025 there’s been a beautiful barrier-free Fénix viewpoint with a telescope pointed directly at Pravčická Gate. From here you can also set out on a completely new cross-border hiking trail toward Schmilka in Saxony.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
