I remember it like it was yesterday — the first time I saw Moraine Lake. I was with my mum and it was snowing. You could barely see a thing, and she was pretty disappointed. It never crossed my mind that one day I’d end up living just a short drive away. And if someone had told me that in a few years the road would be permanently closed to private cars and people would be joining a virtual queue of tens of thousands just to get a shuttle seat, I wouldn’t have believed it. But that’s exactly the reality of visiting Moraine Lake Canada today.

Although the logistics around Canada’s national parks have become a bit of a nightmare, Banff National Park — and Moraine Lake in Alberta in particular — is absolutely worth the effort. Every time I come back, I’m blown away all over again by how real and unfiltered that water colour is. If you’re thinking about heading to the Canadian Rockies, brace yourself for a planning marathon, but I promise you — the moment you lay eyes on the Valley of the Ten Peaks in person, every ounce of stress will melt away. ☺️

I’m going to give you 12 concrete tips, from the famous viewpoint that once graced a twenty-dollar bill to early-morning photo magic to an honest look at whether those outrageously priced canoes are actually worth it. And of course, I’ll walk you through the full guide to surviving the reservation system for 2026. ☺️

TL;DR

• Don’t drive here: The road to the lake has been permanently closed to private vehicles since 2023.
• Shuttle reservations are essential: The official Parks Canada shuttle for the 2026 season opens on 15 April at 8:00 AM MDT — tickets sell out within minutes.
• When the lake thaws: Don’t plan a trip for May. The lake usually doesn’t thaw until late June, and before then the surface is either frozen or lacks that iconic turquoise colour.
• Larch Madness: The most stunning autumn scenery (golden larches) appears in Larch Valley between roughly 22–30 September, but expect enormous crowds.
• Canoes cost a fortune: Renting the iconic red canoe will set you back 160 CAD (about 110 €) per hour.
• A lifeline for photographers: If you want to catch sunrise without the crowds and can’t snag an official ticket, private services like Alpine Start Shuttle depart as early as 4:00 AM.

When to Go and How to Get There (Brace Yourself for Logistical Chaos)

Not long ago, you could simply hop in a car and drive up. Since 2023, however, Moraine Lake Road has been completely closed to private vehicles year-round. The reason is straightforward — the car park at the top was bursting at the seams, creating hours-long traffic jams that even blocked emergency services. Today you have to use public transport, which requires seriously meticulous planning, especially during the summer peak when visitors flock here from all over the world. The route from Lake Louise to Moraine Lake is extremely busy, and without a reservation you simply won’t make it to the water.

The lake sits about 14 kilometres from the village of Lake Louise in Alberta, which is where most travellers set off from. The season here is very short — the road typically opens in early June and closes after Canadian Thanksgiving in mid-October. Bear in mind that if you arrive in early June, the lake will most likely still be frozen and you won’t get that turquoise spectacle. The ideal window to visit is from mid-July through to the end of September.

Parks Canada Shuttle (and a Queue of 75,000 People)

This is the official — and by far the cheapest — way to reach the lake. Parks Canada operates a bus service from a large Park and Ride lot on the outskirts of Lake Louise village. The catch is that tickets for the official Parks Canada shuttle are released months in advance and the demand is absolutely staggering. For 2026, mark your calendar: 15 April at 8:00 AM Mountain Time (MDT).

The system works like this: you buy a ticket for a specific departure time, and then you can also use the free Lake Connector shuttle that runs between Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. I’d recommend having browsers open on multiple devices and clicking the very second the clock hits 8:00. Tickets only cost a few dollars, so it’s worth grabbing one even if you’re not 100% sure about your exact day yet.

Alternatives for Photographers and Those Happy to Pay More

If you don’t get lucky in the official sale, the world won’t end — though your wallet might shed a tear. Commercial operators like Moraine Lake Bus Company or Fairview Tours offer their own transfers. These tickets can sometimes be snagged even a few weeks beforehand, but while the government shuttle costs pocket change, you’ll pay anywhere from 50 to 100 CAD (roughly 35–70 €) per person with a private company. At the extreme end, luxury private tours can run up to 550 CAD (around 380 €) for the day.

If you’re a keen photographer wanting to catch that magical morning light when the sun hits the peaks of the Valley of the Ten Peaks, the official buses won’t help — they don’t start running until around 6 AM. Your saving grace is the Alpine Start Shuttle, which whisks you up from the village as early as 4:00 AM. It’s a brutal wake-up call, especially when it’s freezing outside (which in the mountains it practically always is at that hour), but the photos and the silence at the lake are worth every shivering minute.

Where to Stay Near Moraine Lake and How Much It Costs

Accommodation in Banff National Park isn’t exactly budget-friendly, and the Lake Louise area is arguably the priciest part of the entire park. When you add the 15% tax on top, plus the tipping culture that’s customary in Canada for pretty much every service, your holiday budget can balloon quickly. Still, I genuinely believe everyone should visit this area at least once and stay as close as possible — commuting from distant Calgary (where hotels are half the price) will drain you completely and eat into your precious time.

For accommodation in the immediate area, expect to pay at least 150–300 € per night for two, and during the peak summer season prices routinely double. A big advantage of the pricier hotels right in the village is that they often include free parking and some even offer their own shuttle service to the lakes. We’ve found that the best strategy is to book your room at least six months ahead.

If you asked me what the ultimate cheat code for this entire area is, I’d say: Moraine Lake Lodge. It’s the only hotel right on the lakeshore. A night here will cost you roughly the same as a decent second-hand car, but guests enjoy one enormous, incredible perk — they can drive to the lake in their own vehicle. Yes, the road closure doesn’t apply to hotel guests. So if you want to experience the Canadian wilderness in absolute luxury, wake up to lake views from your bed, and skip the bus stress entirely, this is the ultimate bonus in the national park.

If Moraine Lake Lodge is out of your budget, you’ll find comfortable and more affordable options in Lake Louise on Booking.com (about 15 minutes’ drive from the lake) or directly in Banff (40 minutes’ drive, a much wider selection and slightly lower prices).

Moraine Lake: 12 Things to See and Do

Now we’re getting to the good stuff. Moraine Lake isn’t just about that one viewpoint near the car park — even though that alone will blow your mind. Around the lake there’s a network of incredibly beautiful hiking trails, from easy flat walks to gruelling climbs where you’ll be grateful for a proper pair of hiking boots.

I’d suggest splitting the area into sections. If you only have a few hours, focus on the immediate lakeside. If you have a full day, definitely head up to the higher elevations where you’ll leave 90% of the tourists behind and discover the true mountain wilderness.

1. Rockpile Trail and the Famous Twenty Dollar View

If you’ve ever seen a photo of Moraine Lake, there’s a 99% chance it was taken from right here. Rockpile Trail is quite possibly the shortest and easiest “hike” in the world. As the name suggests, it’s a massive pile of boulders that forms a natural dam at one end of the lake. You’ll reach it in about five minutes from the bus stop and the path is genuinely effortless.

This viewpoint is commonly nicknamed the “Twenty Dollar View,” and there’s a good reason for that. This exact vista — turquoise water backed by ten snow-capped peaks — once graced the Canadian twenty-dollar banknote, issued in the 1970s. Just be prepared for company — you definitely won’t have it to yourself. Even so, the scent of pine needles and fresh mountain air in the morning gives the whole place an atmosphere that’s hard to beat, no matter how many other visitors are around.

2. Valley of the Ten Peaks

The Valley of the Ten Peaks isn’t so much a specific destination as it is the jaw-dropping scenery that dominates the entire lake. Standing on the Rockpile, you’re looking directly at ten massive rocky summits rising above 3,000 metres. Each mountain has its own name, with the tallest being Mount Hungabee at over 3,400 metres above sea level.

The peaks were originally named after numerals in the Stoney Nakoda language, before cartographers renamed them after explorers and railway magnates. A typically Canadian story. Those mountains also act as a protective wall, which is why the lake surface is often as still as glass — perfect for photography. If you’re lucky enough to hit a completely windless moment, you’ll see every single peak reflected in the water.

3. Larch Valley (and the Frenzy Known as Larch Madness)

If you love autumn colours, this place needs to be on your bucket list. The hike into Larch Valley is fairly steep, kicking off with a seemingly endless series of switchbacks through the forest that’ll have you properly sweating. But once you climb above the treeline, a vast alpine valley filled with larch trees opens up before you. Unlike most conifers, larches turn golden in autumn and then shed their needles.

The best time to visit is a very specific window, usually between 22 and 30 September, when the larches turn an electrifyingly bright gold. Canadians even have a special term for this period — “Larch Madness” — and it’s not the slightest bit of an exaggeration. People from across the country descend on Banff purely for this valley. You’ll see dozens of photographers, families, and dog walkers. The views of autumn trees with glaciers behind them are so spectacular you’ll forget all about being out of breath from those awful switchbacks. 😁 Make sure to pack plenty of snacks and — most importantly — water, because there are no drinking fountains up top.

4. Hiking to Sentinel Pass

Sentinel Pass is the natural extension of the Larch Valley hike, and if you’ve still got energy in the tank, I’d absolutely recommend pushing on. While plenty of people make it to the larch-filled valley, only the more determined carry on to the pass. From the valley floor you can already see the pass above you — a sharp notch between two peaks. The trail crosses open scree fields full of rocks big and small, so once again, good boots are non-negotiable.

When you finally scramble up to the 2,611-metre summit, your reward is an unbelievable panoramic view in both directions. On one side, the entire Larch Valley spreads out below you with the Valley of the Ten Peaks behind it, and on the other you’ll see the steep and deserted Paradise Valley. It’s frequently very windy up here, and even if it’s warm down in the valley, a windproof jacket is absolutely essential — we once got caught in a light snowstorm up here at the end of August, no joke.

5. Consolation Lakes (Escape the Crowds)

Looking for a break from the hundreds of people crammed onto the Rockpile? Head to Consolation Lakes. This trail starts from essentially the same spot as the viewpoint path, but branches off into the forest and follows a creek. It’s a relatively flat and very pleasant walk, taking roughly an hour and a half one way.

You’ll reach two smaller glacial lakes surrounded by massive mountain walls — primarily Mount Babel and Mount Quadra. Don’t expect the same turquoise colour as Moraine Lake; the water here has more of a deep blue hue. But the atmosphere is wonderfully peaceful. To reach the water’s edge, you’ll need to hop across some giant boulders left behind by a retreating glacier. We usually bring a good flask of coffee and soak in the silence that you simply can’t get at the main viewpoint — and occasionally you’ll spot marmots sunbathing on the rocks.

6. Canoeing on the Lake (at the Price of a Decent Hotel)

This is probably the most photogenic activity you can do here, but I’ll be honest — it requires closing your eyes when you pay. Renting one of the iconic red canoes from Moraine Lake Lodge is outrageously expensive, currently running at about 160 CAD (around 110 €) per hour. When I worked in Lake Louise, it cost about a third of that and even then we thought it was steep.

That said, if your budget allows it, this is a moment you’ll never forget. Once you paddle a few dozen metres from shore, all the noise fades away and you find yourself alone in the middle of that unreal turquoise splendour. The water is full of so-called rock flour — fine stone dust that reflects sunlight and gives the lake its colour. The feeling of your paddle slicing through the perfectly opaque surface is pure magic. The rental operates on a first-come, first-served basis, so I’d suggest making this your very first activity of the morning.

7. Moraine Lake Lakeshore Trail

For those who don’t fancy tackling any elevation gain but still want to soak in the views from different angles, the trail along the lakeshore is ideal. It starts near the canoe rental and winds along the right-hand shore for just under three kilometres. The path leads through a beautiful old-growth coniferous forest, and the lake is within arm’s reach the entire way.

At the end of the trail, you’ll reach the point where glacial meltwater feeds into the lake. Here you’ll find small wooden boardwalks and a wild stream. It’s fascinating to see how milky and opaque the glacial water is before it settles into the larger lake. This route is completely flat, making it easily manageable even with small children.

8. Eiffel Lake (Panoramas Without the Crowds)

Eiffel Lake is a somewhat overlooked gem. Most people who start the Larch Valley trail blindly follow the crowds up towards the pass and completely miss the Eiffel Lake turnoff. And that’s a real shame. Once the trail splits after the first steep switchbacks and you head left, the crowds vanish instantly and you find yourself on a wonderfully scenic path traversing the mountainside.

You’ll reach a much smaller lake with a gorgeous deep colour, but the real bonus is that throughout the entire hike you have the Valley of the Ten Peaks laid out in front of you — and from this perspective the mountains look even more imposing than from down at Moraine Lake. The trail is less steep than Sentinel Pass, so it’s an excellent alternative if you want stunning alpine views without quite as much effort. Plus, there’s a good chance you’ll encounter whistling marmots hiding among the rocks along the path.

9. Watching the Sunrise (Alpine Start)

I touched on this briefly in the transport section, but sunrise at Moraine Lake is, for me, probably the most powerful visual experience in all of Canada. It’s not just about fewer people (though you’ll still be jostling for position with other photographers at the viewpoint) — it’s all about the light. The sun rises behind you and first illuminates only the very highest tips of the Ten Peaks, which glow in an incredibly vivid orange and pink.

As the sun gradually climbs, that fiery line creeps down the rock faces towards the lake. And if there’s no wind, the entire colour show is reflected back to you on the water’s surface. To see this, you’ll need to book an early shuttle or be a guest at the expensive hotel right on the shore. Don’t forget to bring seriously warm clothing — even in the middle of summer, it can be below zero up here in the early hours.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to Stay near Moraine Lake

3 accommodations — wellness hotels, hotels and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE ⭐ Luxury

Moraine Lake Lodge

The only hotel directly on the shore of Moraine Lake with a huge advantage – guests can arrive by their own car (the only exception to the access ban). A night costs a very high amount, but includes a view of the lake from your bed and no stress dealing with buses.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Accommodation in Lake Louise

Affordable and comfortable accommodation options in Lake Louise, about 15 minutes by car from Moraine Lake. Prices from €160 to €320 per night for two people, even double that in peak summer season.

★★★★ from €160/night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Accommodation in Banff

Accommodation in the town of Banff, 40 minutes by car from Moraine Lake. Significantly wider selection and slightly cheaper prices than in Lake Louise.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability

10. Swimming in the Lake? Only for the Brave

I often get asked whether you can actually swim in Moraine Lake. The answer is: technically yes, but in practice you’ll change your mind very quickly. The lake is fed by melting glaciers from nearby mountains, which means the water temperature — even in the height of the hottest August — rarely exceeds 4 to 5°C. It’s genuinely like jumping into a barrel of ice.

Plenty of tourists dip their ankles in for a funny Instagram shot, but very few last more than ten seconds because the cold is instantly painful. If you’re a cold-water enthusiast and the Wim Hof method is part of your daily routine, you might enjoy it — but don’t expect anything resembling a recreational swim at the beach.

11. Connecting with Lake Louise (Roam Transit)

If you’ve made the journey all the way out here, you’ll definitely want to combine Moraine Lake with the nearby famous Lake Louise. The good news is that the national park system has thought of this — a free shuttle called the Lake Connector runs from the upper car park.

To use the Connector, you’ll need a valid reservation for one of the Parks Canada buses, or a special Super Pass from local operator Roam Transit, which runs from the town of Banff. Buses between the two lakes run roughly every 15 minutes and the journey takes just over twenty minutes. If you were driving, you’d have to head back down to the highway and queue again at the other car park, so this shuttle is a massive time-saver and much kinder on the nerves.

12. Picnic by the Lake

It might sound simple, but one of the best tips I can give you is to bring your own food. Scattered around Moraine Lake are several sturdy wooden benches and picnic tables. The café at the lodge is nice enough, but the prices are aimed squarely at international tourists — and honestly, a humble sandwich with a jaw-dropping view tastes far better than an overpriced meal in a packed dining room.

Stop off in Lake Louise village at the grocery store or at Laggan’s bakery, pick up some fresh bread, coffee and a few treats, and have yourself a feast in the wild. Just one request, please — never leave food unattended. Despite the idyllic setting, you’re deep in bear country, and on top of that there are incredibly bold squirrels and Clark’s nutcrackers that will steal a roll right out of your hand the second you look away. 😉

Where to Eat and Refuel

Dining options right at the lake are very limited, which is understandable given the remote location. If hunger strikes, you can try one of the following — just be prepared for alpine-level prices.

• Snowbird Cafe: A small café that’s part of Moraine Lake Lodge. You can grab a decent specialty coffee, hot chocolate, sandwiches and excellent muffins here. They also do a great ice cream, which you’ll truly appreciate on a hot summer day after descending from Sentinel Pass. Prices are on the high side, but that’s to be expected.
• Moraine Lake Lodge Dining Room: We haven’t actually dined here ourselves (the price tag always put us off 😅), but the reviews rave about the local game and fish dishes, and the view from the window is a perfect match. I’d recommend making a reservation well in advance, especially if you’re not a hotel guest.

Tips and Tricks for Travelling to Canada

Planning a transatlantic trip takes some serious effort, so I want to share the services we swear by — they’ve saved us loads of time and money on all our flights from Europe.

Finding Flights to Canada

When we fly to Calgary or Vancouver, we always search for flights through Kiwi — it’s our favourite booking platform. It can combine airlines that don’t normally partner with each other, which has saved us a fortune, especially when connecting through London or Frankfurt. From the UK, you’ll find direct flights to Calgary with airlines like WestJet and Air Canada, or good-value connections through Icelandair or Air Transat. The savings mean more money for things like renting that outrageously priced canoe on the lake.

Renting a Car for a Road Trip

Honestly, I can’t imagine doing Canada without a car (unless you’re staying at just one lake). Lukáš and I have had consistently good experiences with DiscoverCars, which we use all over the world. It’s a comparison site, so you’ll always see the best deals from all the major rental companies in one place. In Canada, it’s definitely worth going for a car with a bit more power under the bonnet — the mountain passes can be seriously steep.

Don’t Forget Insurance and Connectivity

Whatever you do, don’t set foot in Canada without proper travel insurance — healthcare for visitors is horrendously expensive. We’ve been using and recommending SafetyWing insurance for years. You can buy it online from anywhere in the world and it covers the vast majority of tourist activities.

And if you want to be connected the moment you land (say, to frantically check those tricky Moraine Lake shuttle reservations), definitely look into digital SIM cards. We use Holafly — you can download it to your phone in under a minute and skip the hassle of hunting for a plastic SIM at the airport.

Where to Go Next

Moraine Lake is just one of many iconic lakes in the Canadian Rockies. If you’re planning a longer road trip, have a look at our other articles:

• Tips from the neighbouring lake can be found in our guide to what to see around Lake Louise.
• A complete guide to Banff National Park, of which Moraine Lake is a part.
• From Moraine Lake, the legendary Icefields Parkway stretches all the way to Jasper — 232 km of the most beautiful road on Earth.
• If you’re looking for a calmer base than overcrowded Banff, check out our comparison of Canmore vs. Banff.

FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions About Moraine Lake

I’ve gathered the most common questions readers ask me when planning a trip to Moraine Lake. If anything’s missing, feel free to drop me a message.

Everyone will tell you that this road, also known as Highway 93, is simply something you have to see with your own eyes. When I first drove the Icefields Parkway with my mum, I knew instantly I had to come back — it’s hands down the most beautiful road I’ve ever driven. It’s also one of the reasons we kept making the trip from Banff to Jasper just to go to the cinema (even though Banff has its own). Sweeping curves beneath massive snow-capped peaks, wild turquoise lakes that force you to pull over because your brain simply can’t process that intense colour, and enormous glaciers creeping down from the mountains. The entire landscape is so epic that you sometimes feel like you’ve stepped right into a nature documentary.

I know, I know — the internet is absolutely brimming with Icefields Parkway guides. But none of them will walk you through this road as thoroughly as ours. 😁 Every stop from the iconic must-sees to the hidden gems where Lukáš and I had the place completely to ourselves. Accommodation, fuel, crowds, hikes, what to watch out for, and why the Snocoach left us a little disappointed. You’ll find that those 232 kilometres can easily fill an entire day — and you still won’t have had enough. ☺️

TL;DR

• Where is it: Highway 93 (Icefields Parkway) connects the Canadian national parks of Banff and Jasper in the province of Alberta.
• Length and time: It’s 232 kilometres long. The drive alone takes roughly 3 hours, but with viewpoints and hikes, set aside a full day (ideally 8 to 10 hours).
• Key rule: There’s zero mobile signal along the route and only one single petrol station with a hefty mountain surcharge. Fill up in Banff or Jasper before you set off.
• Wildlife: You’re in bear country. Bear spray is an absolute must, even if you’re only stepping out for a short viewpoint.
• Route highlights: The turquoise Peyto Lake, the thundering Athabasca Falls, the mighty Athabasca Glacier, and our favourite hike Wilcox Pass, where you’re virtually guaranteed to spot bighorn sheep.

When to Drive the Icefields Parkway and Essential Info

Highway 93 Icefields Parkway is open year-round, but if you want to enjoy all the hikes and see the lakes in their most dazzling turquoise, plan your trip squarely for the summer months. Even so, be prepared for the fact that the Canadian Rockies play by their own rules — the weather here can flip on a dime. Sunshine can give way to a heavy downpour within ten minutes, and Lukáš and I quickly learned that keeping a rain jacket within arm’s reach is the absolute foundation of a successful day out.

The best time to visit is from late June to early September. But I do need to warn you about something we experienced first-hand. Even in the middle of July you can get hit by a sudden snowstorm. During our summer road trip, we had mornings where we were scraping ice off the windows of our beloved van Chiquita with chattering teeth, only to be sweating in a t-shirt by the lake that afternoon, desperately seeking shade. Lukáš and I quickly became disciples of the layering system — you simply can’t function here without it. Winter tyres are mandatory from November to April, but in winter the road is often closed due to avalanche risk and conditions are only suitable for very experienced drivers accustomed to unpredictable mountain blizzards.

One more thing you absolutely cannot forget: the entire highway lies within national park territory, so without a valid park pass they won’t let you through. You’ll be checked at the toll gate just past Lake Louise or past Jasper, and you can buy your pass in advance online through the official Parks Canada website. There is absolutely no mobile signal along the entire length of the road, so I strongly recommend downloading offline maps to your phone (many people search for “icefields parkway google maps” for offline use) or grabbing the official “icefields parkway map pdf” directly from the Parks Canada website so you know exactly which kilometre to stop at. If you want to stay connected, consider picking up an eSIM with a Canadian data plan from Holafly or Yesim before your trip — though keep in mind that coverage along the parkway itself is essentially nonexistent regardless of provider.

Where to Stay and How Much It Costs

Finding accommodation directly on the Icefields Parkway is quite a challenge, because you’re in the middle of protected wilderness with an absolute minimum of commercial buildings. Most people solve it by setting off early in the morning from Lake Louise (or Banff) and driving through to Jasper, where they spend the night. From our own experience, this is the most sensible option — unless you’re sleeping in your car or a tent like we did.

If you’re travelling with a rental car and looking for hotels, brace yourself for seriously high prices. The Canadian Rockies are an expensive destination, and during peak summer season prices routinely climb to 200–320 € per night for two people. It’s the price you pay for the staggering beauty all around you, so it’s worth factoring this in when you’re building your budget.

Accommodation tips along the route and nearby:

• On the route itself: There are essentially just a handful of options. One is The Crossing Resort, roughly halfway along the route near the petrol station — very handy when you’re tired from driving. A more luxurious option is Glacier View Lodge right at the Columbia Icefield, where you’ll pay a premium but wake up to spectacular views of the ice from your room.
• In Lake Louise (start): We can recommend the stunning and historic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise if you fancy treating yourself to pure luxury, or the more budget-friendly Mountaineer Lodge.
• In Jasper (finish): At the end of the road, the choice is much wider. A lovely option with a cosy log-cabin feel is Becker’s Chalets right by the river, where you can fall asleep to the sound of rushing water.

If you’re camping like we did, you’ll find several “first come, first served” campgrounds along the route (popular ones include Waterfowl Lakes Campground and the picturesque Wilcox Creek). This means whoever arrives first gets a spot — no reservations, even though the Parks Canada system normally loves bookings. In peak season, this means getting there ideally before 2 PM, otherwise you’ll very likely be out of luck and have to drive on to the next one, which in the wilderness with no signal can be pretty stressful.

A pitch at one of these beautiful backcountry campgrounds without services (you’ll find a pit toilet, a fire ring, and a stack of firewood) costs around 16–20 CAD (roughly 11–14 €) per night. I still remember how we held our breath at one of those campsites when a massive elk strolled past right next to our van. It’s pure, unadulterated romance with nature — just make sure you meticulously store absolutely all food and scented toiletries in your car or in the special bear-proof lockers overnight, because bears have an incredible sense of smell and you definitely don’t want to share your breakfast with one. I recommend reading up on the camping rules on the official Banff National Park website.

Icefields Parkway: 14 Stops You Can’t Miss

Let’s walk through the full itinerary of stops, running south to north — from Lake Louise towards Jasper. This is exactly how the vast majority of travellers do it, and it makes the most sense from a photography perspective too: with the morning sun behind you, your photos will be far more striking. Get your cameras ready, brew some coffee for your thermos, and make sure you’ve got a full tank — we’re heading out. For each stop, I’ve included the approximate kilometre from the toll gate at Lake Louise so you can easily find your way even without the internet.

1. Crowfoot Glacier (km 33)

Just past the 33-kilometre mark, we pulled over for the first time to gaze at Crowfoot Glacier — a glacier shaped like a crow’s foot. You can park right by the road, so you don’t technically even need to get out of the car, though of course you’ll want to. The glacier got its name because it once had three enormous ice tongues that faithfully resembled a giant crow’s talon dug into the rock.

Sadly, global warming has taken a harsh toll — the lowest “toe” has already melted away and disappeared for good. There’s something genuinely poignant about looking at that exposed rock, because you’re witnessing climate change in real time. Even so, it’s a fantastic first taste of what awaits you on this glacier road trip. It tends to be quite windy here thanks to Hector Lake sitting right below in the valley, so grab your windbreaker for this very first stop.

2. Bow Lake and Num-Ti-Jah Lodge (km 39)

Just a short distance further, you’ll come across Bow Lake — one of the largest and, in my opinion, most gorgeous lakes along the entire route. The water is so incredibly blue and freezing that even if you just dip your fingers in during summer, they go numb instantly. Behind it, the massive Bow Glacier rises majestically, feeding the lake with the rock flour that gives it that surreal turquoise colour — creating a scene that looks like it’s been ripped straight from a postcard you’d secretly envy on Instagram.

On the lakeshore, you’ll spot the iconic wooden Num-Ti-Jah Lodge with its distinctive red roof, beautifully contrasting against the blue water. It was built by legendary mountain guide Jimmy Simpson in the early 20th century and radiates a wonderfully old-world wilderness atmosphere. It’s a perfect spot for a short stroll along the shore and some stunning reflection photos with the mountains mirrored on the surface. If you have more time and fancy a proper hike, a roughly 9-kilometre trail leads from here to the waterfalls right beneath the glacier itself — but most people spend about half an hour here before pressing on to the next adventure. (We wrote more about the lakes in this area in our Lake Louise guide.)

3. Peyto Lake from Bow Summit Viewpoint (km 40)

This is an absolute classic that you simply cannot skip, even though it does feel a bit like organised chaos at first glance. ☺️ Peyto Lake is probably the most photographed lake along the entire route, and the moment you look down from the viewpoint, you’ll instantly understand why. It has a perfect wolf-head shape (or a dog, as Lukáš insists) and a blazing turquoise colour so vivid it looks almost unreal. Lukáš and I stood up there holding hands, just silently staring, because the view completely disarms you.

From the large car park at Bow Summit (which, by the way, is the highest point on the entire highway at 2,067 m above sea level), you’ll face a short but fairly steep climb to a wooden viewing platform — about ten minutes of brisk walking. Because it’s a massive tourist magnet from around the world, the platform gets besieged by tour buses in summer and you’ll hear dozens of different languages. Lukáš and I got crafty about it — we wandered along an unassuming beaten path a little further into the forest, where the crowds magically vanished and we finally had the wolf-shaped lake all to ourselves, free to photograph it without stray elbows in every shot.

4. Mistaya Canyon (km 71)

After roughly another half hour of relaxed driving, I’d definitely recommend stopping at Mistaya Canyon. From an unassuming gravel car park, a short trail winds downhill through the forest to the river — barely fifteen minutes of easy walking. Then suddenly a narrow, deep rock gorge opens up before you, where a glacial river surges through with incredible force, carving the pale limestone into amazingly smooth, sculpted shapes that look like works of art.

The roar of the wild water is so deafening that you can barely hear each other even when shouting. But please be extremely careful and don’t approach the slippery, wet edges of the rocks — and absolutely don’t try to step over the safety railings for a better photo. The water here is so mercilessly fast and cold that a fall would give you no chance whatsoever. That said, it’s a mesmerising display of raw Canadian nature at its most untamed, and we sat on a safe boulder for a very long time just taking it all in.

5. Saskatchewan Crossing (km 77): A Practical Pitstop

This isn’t so much a natural landmark as an absolutely crucial waypoint where Highway 93 intersects with Highway 11. Saskatchewan Crossing is the only place along the entire 232 kilometres where you can buy fuel, use a proper flushing toilet in a restaurant, or grab something hot to eat. It’s a little island of civilisation in the middle of endless coniferous forests, where everyone pauses to catch their breath.

I do need to give you an honest heads-up about one thing that’ll probably catch you off guard. Prices for absolutely everything — especially fuel — are eye-wateringly high here. The owners know perfectly well that a desperate tourist with an empty tank will pay whatever it takes to avoid being stranded in bear-filled wilderness, so a litre of fuel here routinely costs up to 50% more than in the towns. That’s exactly why we told you at the start to fill up in Banff. When we stopped here back in 2017, we just grabbed an overpriced coffee for the thermos, soaked in a bit of the petrol station ambience, and bolted back towards the mountains.

6. Weeping Wall (km 106)

The Weeping Wall is a massive limestone face on Cirrus Mountain that, during spring and early summer when the snow melts, releases so many cascading streams that the mountain genuinely looks like it’s weeping from dozens of eyes — and you can see the whole show right from your car window. Those tears of water slowly trickle down the grey rock, forming a beautiful web of tiny streams that catch little rainbows in the sunlight.

In summer it makes for a lovely, quick stop, but the real magic — and a touch of madness — happens in winter. When all those delicate streams freeze solid and form enormous ice organ pipes, the cliff becomes a world-famous ice-climbing wall, drawing daring climbers with ice axes from across the globe to test their limits. In summer, you’ll at least enjoy a pleasant chill radiating off the rock that gives you a brief respite from the heat.

7. Big Bend and the Summit Viewpoint (km 115)

Just past the Weeping Wall, the road starts climbing sharply and relentlessly, twisting into an enormous U-shaped hairpin aptly called Big Bend. I still remember our beloved old van Chiquita wheezing up this brutal hill in second gear while Lukáš and I sat in tense silence, eyes glued to the temperature gauge, wondering if the poor thing would actually make it to the top without steam pouring from under the bonnet. 😅

Once you finally crest that seemingly endless hairpin and the engine gets a breather, a small pull-off to a viewpoint car park appears on the right. Definitely stop there. The sweeping view back down the broad Saskatchewan River valley, with its deep, endless forests framed by sheer rock walls, is precisely the kind of jaw-dropping vista that makes people google whether this drive is actually worth it. It absolutely is — and this is where you’ll snap some of the best panoramic photos of the entire trip.

8. Parker Ridge Hike (km 120)

Parker Ridge is exactly the kind of hike that makes you wish you’d planned a whole week here. If you have the time and fancy a proper leg-stretch after hours in the car, this is an outstanding choice. It’s roughly a 5-kilometre return trail with about 250 metres of elevation gain. The narrow path climbs fairly steeply via switchbacks, quickly rising above the treeline to open up brilliant views — and at the very end, an absolute showstopper awaits.

When you finally crest the barren ridge, a fierce cold wind hits you in the face and suddenly a vast panoramic view of the longest glacier tongue in the Rockies — the Saskatchewan Glacier — unfolds before you. You’ll definitely want sturdy footwear for this one; even in mid-July there are treacherous snow patches and it can get quite slippery. Luckily, we never go anywhere without proper hiking boots, which have kept us steady on many a Canadian trail.

9. Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Glacier (km 127)

This is the beating heart of the entire Icefields Parkway. Columbia Icefield is a colossal ice field that’s said to be roughly the size of Vancouver, feeding rivers that flow into three different oceans. I couldn’t fathom that statistic at the time, but once you’re standing there scanning the horizon in every direction, you begin to grasp the sheer scale. What you see from the road is actually “just” one of its tongues — the famous Athabasca Glacier. This is also where you’ll find the main visitor centre, where you can warm up with a hot soup after a breezy afternoon, buy a pair of warm socks, and use the only Wi-Fi for miles around. More official information about activities can be found on the Columbia Icefield website.

This is also where they sell tickets for the popular “Snocoach” or Ice Explorer — massive buses on monstrous wheels that drive you right up onto the glacier itself, where you then get about 20 minutes to walk around on the ice alongside dozens of other visitors. It costs a fair bit — around 119 CAD (about 80 €) per person. I’ll be honest with you though: for us, it felt a bit like a tourist trap, and the crowds with clicking cameras are truly enormous. Lukáš and I both agreed that a far better and more authentic experience of the raw landscape is to simply walk up to the glacier’s toe on foot, completely free of charge (just park in the lower car park and hike about a kilometre uphill on a steep trail) — though of course you must not step onto the blue ice itself without a mountain guide due to extremely dangerous crevasses.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to Stay on Icefields Parkway

6 accommodations — wellness hotels, campgrounds and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏨 Hotel

The Crossing Resort

Practical accommodation roughly halfway along the route at the Saskatchewan River Crossing gas station, ideal when you’re tired from driving.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability ⭐ Luxury

Glacier View Lodge

More luxurious accommodation right at the Columbia Icefield glacier, where you’ll pay a premium but experience spectacular views of ice masses directly from your room.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability ⭐ Luxury

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

Beautiful and historic hotel if you want to splurge and enjoy perfect luxury. Ideal starting point for Icefields Parkway.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Mountaineer Lodge

More affordable accommodation in Lake Louise, suitable as a starting point for the Icefields Parkway journey.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🏡 Chalets

Becker’s Chalets

Very pleasant accommodation with cozy cabin atmosphere right by the river in Jasper, where you can hear the water rushing beautifully in the evening. Ideal destination after the Icefields Parkway journey.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability ⛺ Camping

Waterfowl Lakes Campground

Popular campground along Icefields Parkway with a first-come first-served system. Beautiful natural site with no services, just a dry toilet, fire pit and pile of firewood.

★★★★ from €11/night

Check availability

10. Wilcox Pass Hike: Better Than the Skywalk (km 127)

If you’re craving the absolute best view of Athabasca Glacier and the sprawling Columbia Icefield, skip the pricey commercial attractions for once and join us on the Wilcox Pass hike. You’ll find a small car park tucked right by the road just before the visitor centre. It’s roughly an 8-kilometre return trail that takes about 3 to 4 hours at a comfortable pace, with around 400 metres of elevation gain — enough to work up a good sweat.

This is probably our single favourite hike in the entire area, and we still think about it to this day. A beautiful forest trail gradually leads you up to vast green alpine meadows. Here you can sit down in the famous red Adirondack chairs, pull out your snacks, and take in the entire white glacial expanse from a stunning bird’s-eye perspective. And what’s the very best part? You’ll almost always spot herds of wild bighorn sheep, peacefully grazing and occasionally fixing you with a curious stare. It’s a quintessentially Canadian experience that won’t cost you a single extra dollar — and it puts every overpriced commercial viewpoint to shame.

11. Glacier Skywalk (km 135)

A few kilometres further on, you’ll find the Glacier Skywalk — a horseshoe-shaped glass walkway cantilevered out over the Sunwapta River valley. Tickets cost around 39 CAD (roughly 27 €), and you can only reach the platform by shuttle bus from the visitor centre — private cars aren’t allowed. For anyone who loves modern architecture, a touch of adrenaline, and the thrill of peering through a transparent glass floor straight down to a 280-metre drop below, it’s certainly a memorable experience that’ll make more than a few heads spin.

However, if you’ve just come down from Wilcox Pass all sweaty and happy, I’d honestly give the Skywalk a miss with a clear conscience. The views from our hike felt far more dramatic, more expansive, and above all more natural than this somewhat artificial scrum on a glass walkway where you’re constantly waiting for your turn at the railing.

12. Sunwapta Falls (km 175)

As the road gradually draws closer to Jasper, the landscape outside the window begins to subtly transform — the trees grow noticeably taller, the air feels warmer, and the wide valleys open up even more. Take a short break here and stop at Sunwapta Falls, a gorgeous set of thundering waterfalls on the river of the same name. The main upper falls with its iconic little island of green conifers right in the middle of the raging channel is less than a five-minute walk from the car park, so absolutely everyone can manage it.

💡 My little tip: Most tourists hop out of the car, snap a photo of the upper falls by the railing, and immediately drive off again. Do yourself a huge favour and follow the lovely, gentle forest trail about two more kilometres downhill to the Lower Sunwapta Falls. You’ll have the place 99% to yourselves and can soak up the muted power of the cascading water and the enchanting beauty of the wild, mossy old-growth forest all around, fragrant with resin and damp pine needles.

13. Goats and Glaciers Viewpoint (km 188)

This is just a subtle, quick roadside stop about 40 kilometres before Jasper itself, one that plenty of cars simply blow past without noticing. The road here runs alongside the turquoise Athabasca River, and a short pull-off to a small gravel car park leads you in a few steps to a viewpoint on a steep bank with a gorgeous panorama.

The sand and soil on these cliffs are packed with minerals, making them act like a giant natural salt lick — mountain goats regularly flock here in whole herds, though sometimes you’re out of luck and won’t spot a single one. But when you do catch them clambering around in their signature white coats with little black horns, it’s a wonderful spectacle. Even if the goats don’t show, the calming view of the broad river with majestic Mt. Kerkeslin in the background is always worth the quick leg-stretch.

14. Athabasca Falls (km 199)

Our very last major stop before you finally roll into the destination town of Jasper is the mighty Athabasca Falls. They’re not particularly tall — just over 20 metres — but the sheer volume and raw power of the water forcing itself through a narrow gorge carved from incredibly hard quartzite is absolutely staggering. You can feel the vibrations through the soles of your feet.

A fairly extensive network of safe walkways and bridges has been built around the falls, so you can photograph them from loads of great angles. But the same rule applies here as at Mistaya Canyon: never, ever climb over the stone barriers chasing a better selfie. The rocks are slippery all around, and falling into this churning cauldron would mean a swift and certain end. That aside, the atmosphere here is simply fantastic — fine mist swirls everywhere, refreshing your face on a hot day, and on sunny afternoons rainbows of all sizes form constantly above the canyon. (More tips from the destination itself can be found in our article about Jasper, Canada, or check out the official Jasper National Park website.)

Food and Drink on the Road

Food along the route? Well, how do I put this nicely. Options are minimal, and what is available will leave your wallet stinging long after you get home. At the visitor centre near Columbia Icefield, you can grab a mediocre and fairly pricey burger with chips in a pinch, and the same goes for the restaurant at The Crossing Resort, where prices are even steeper.

The smartest and most enjoyable approach is to stock up on a big supply of food the day before at a supermarket. ☺️ You’ll have a much better time eating your own packed lunch at a scenic pull-off, and you’ll save a decent chunk of cash for an evening pint in Jasper. If you’re a coffee lover, a portable coffee maker like Outin is a game-changer for brewing a proper cup at any viewpoint along the way.

Where to Go Next

The Icefields Parkway is just one stunning leg of a wider road trip through Alberta and British Columbia. Check out our other articles:

• Plan the start of your trip with our guide to Banff National Park or our article on what to see around Lake Louise.
• At the other end of the route, read our guide to Jasper National Park after the 2024 fire.
• If you’re looking for a quieter base than Banff, check out our comparison of Canmore vs. Banff.

FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions About the Icefields Parkway

I’ve gathered the most common questions from readers planning a trip along the Icefields Parkway. If there’s anything I haven’t covered, feel free to drop me a message.

When Lukáš and I first arrived in Banff, Canada, in the summer of 2016 to work, we had no idea that our hearts would ultimately be won over by the nearby town of Canmore. We had huge, almost cinematic expectations — the photos we’d seen online promised untamed wilderness and log cabins with fireplaces. Reality brought us crashing back to earth pretty quickly, though, because we ended up with a tiny room barely two metres square, sharing a single kitchen with forty other people from all over the world.

😅 Banff is undeniably one of the most beautiful places on the planet, but it’s also a massive tourist bubble where accommodation and food prices soar to astronomical heights. Later, when we were living and working in Calgary, we kept coming back to the mountains regularly — but we very quickly discovered what most locals already know. If you want to experience the true beauty of the Canadian Rockies without blowing your entire budget and dodging the biggest crowds, the answer is Canmore.

The question of Canmore vs Banff is probably the most common dilemma travellers face when planning a trip to Alberta, and I completely understand why. The two towns are separated by barely twenty minutes by car, both sit in a breathtaking valley surrounded by majestic peaks, yet each offers a completely different experience. While Banff is the bustling hub of the national park, packed with souvenir shops and pricey restaurants, Canmore still retains the feel of a genuine mountain town where people actually live, shop at normal supermarkets, and walk their dogs on stunning trails after work. ☺️

And because I know that almost everyone planning a trip to the Rockies wrestles with the Canmore vs Banff question, I’ll give you a straightforward overview of everything that matters. We’ll cover accommodation, prices, and I’ll throw in personal tips — from the legendary Ha Ling Peak and the turquoise Grassi Lakes to the unassuming little cafés that serve the best cappuccino. 😉

TL;DR

If you’re already packing your bags and don’t have time to read the full article, at least take away these key points — a few things that surprised us on our first trip and that I wish we’d known in advance.

• Accommodation in Canmore is significantly cheaper (often 30–40% less than Banff), and you get much more spacious rooms or entire apartments with kitchenettes for your money.
• The distance isn’t an issue — driving from Canmore to Banff town centre takes just 20 minutes on the highway, making it perfectly convenient for daily trips to the main attractions.
• You don’t need a national park pass to stay in Canmore itself — you only buy one when you enter the gates of Banff National Park, which can save you money on days when you want to explore just the Canmore area or Kananaskis (though you’ll need a Kananaskis Conservation Pass for that).
• Stock up on groceries in Calgary beforehand. If you’re driving from the airport, make a stop at the giant Costco in Calgary — buying food in the mountains is seriously expensive.
• Canmore has fewer crowds and a more relaxed vibe — you’ll find plenty of brilliant hiking trails, wildlife, and beautiful lakes, so there’s absolutely no chance of getting bored.

When to Visit and How to Get to the Mountains

We experienced all four seasons in Canada, and trust me, choosing the right one really matters. So don’t skip this section, even if travel logistics usually bore you. A lot depends on whether you’re dreaming of turquoise lakes or world-class powder skiing.

The peak tourist season runs from June to September, when all the high-altitude lakes like Moraine Lake and Lake Louise have finally thawed and glow with the most intense blue you can imagine. Summer also means every hiking trail is open, but you’ll have to contend with massive crowds and the highest accommodation prices. The winter season from December to March is paradise for winter sports lovers — the local ski resorts rank among the best in the world, and both Banff and Canmore look like something straight out of a fairy tale under a blanket of snow. If you want to dodge both the crowds and extreme prices, consider the shoulder seasons (May or October), though you always risk unpredictable weather and the fact that many higher trails will still be buried under snow.

As for getting there, your gateway will be Calgary International Airport (YYC). From the UK, several airlines offer flights with one connection via European hubs — search for the best deals on Kiwi. The easiest way to reach the mountains from the airport is by car. Lukáš and I have had consistently great experiences with DiscoverCars, which we use everywhere around the world, and having your own wheels gives you enormous freedom. The drive from Calgary to Canmore takes just over an hour along the straight Trans-Canada Highway. If you’d rather not hire a car, you can use bus services like Banff Airporter or On-It Transit (summer only), which will drop you right at your hotel.

💡 TIP from our years in Calgary: Before you head for the mountains, do a big shop in Calgary. We swore by Costco, where you can grab enormous packs of groceries at a fraction of the price — an absolute lifesaver when you’ve got an apartment with a kitchen in Canmore. Supermarkets in Banff (like IGA) and even the Safeway in Canmore are noticeably pricier.

Canmore vs Banff: Where to Stay and How Much It Costs

Accommodation and budget are probably the very first thing that settles the Canmore vs Banff debate — and Canmore wins this one pretty convincingly. It edges ahead thanks to friendlier pricing and a much wider variety of places to rest your head after a full day of mountain hiking.

Banff is a gorgeous historic town surrounded by mountain peaks, but its downside is the strict building regulations imposed by the national park. No new construction is allowed, which means the supply of accommodation is limited while demand from around the world is enormous. A small, fairly basic hotel room in peak season can easily set you back 350–500 CAD per night (roughly £200–£290 / €230–€330), and that’s just the average. Canmore, on the other hand, sits just outside the national park boundary where regulations aren’t nearly as tight, and plenty of new resorts have sprung up in recent years. It’s perfectly normal for accommodation in Canmore to be 30–40% cheaper — for the price of a tiny room in Banff, you can get a beautiful, fully equipped apartment with a fireplace and mountain views.

If you’re after specific hotel recommendations, our favourite spot in Canmore is the Falcon Crest Lodge apartment complex, where you get your own kitchen and washing machine — something you’ll appreciate immensely after a week of hiking. For those seeking a touch more luxury, there’s the majestic Malcolm Hotel with its stunning outdoor pool and views straight onto the iconic Three Sisters mountain range.

If you absolutely insist on staying right in the thick of things and strolling down Banff Avenue in the evening without getting in the car, you’ll need a bigger budget. The iconic Fairmont Banff Springs is an enormous castle nestled in the forest (though prices here can run into the hundreds of pounds per night), but a very pleasant and more affordable option is the Moose Hotel and Suites or the rustic Banff Caribou Lodge, which has a lovely spa.

Canmore and Surroundings: 15 Must-Visit Places and Things to Do

Even though many people stay in Canmore purely to save money and drive to Banff every day, it would be a huge shame to overlook the area around Canmore itself. You’ll find spectacular trails, beautiful lakes, and — best of all — far fewer tourists. Let’s dive into the best this area has to offer.

1. Three Sisters Mountains: The Iconic View

If Canmore has a visual symbol, it’s undoubtedly the Three Sisters. These three jagged peaks — officially named Big Sister, Middle Sister, and Little Sister — tower over the town and are visible from practically every angle. Personally, I don’t think the sight of them ever gets old. I still remember driving along the highway from Calgary for the first time and watching these mountains emerge before us — it was absolutely jaw-dropping.

The best photos can be taken along the Bow River, particularly at a quiet spot called Policeman’s Creek Boardwalk, where the mountains are perfectly reflected on the water’s surface in the calm morning light. If you’re into photography, I’d recommend getting up early, grabbing a coffee from a local roastery, and heading to the river before the wind picks up.

For the more adventurous, there’s also an unofficial, unmarked Three Sisters Viewpoint — you’ll need to push through some bushes and cross a dry creek bed to reach it, but your reward is an absolutely perfect view without power lines and, most importantly, without tourists.

2. Grassi Lakes: A Turquoise Gem for Everyone

A trip to Grassi Lakes is an absolute must if you’re spending time in Canmore — it’s probably the most popular short hike in the entire area. It’s a perfect outing for families with kids or for anyone who wants to stretch their legs after a long flight from Europe. The walk to the lakes takes roughly one to two hours depending on your pace and how often you stop for photos.

You can choose between two routes (Upper and Lower). I always recommend heading up via the more challenging path (Grassi Lakes Trail – Difficult), which does include a few steeper stone steps but takes you past waterfalls the entire way and opens up amazing views back towards the town of Canmore. You can then come back down on the easy, wide gravel path.

The lakes at the top are indescribably vivid — a deep, crystal-clear blue-green in which you can see fallen tree trunks and fish swimming about. Lukáš and I spent many a Sunday afternoon here with a book in hand — it’s a genuine oasis of calm (as long as you don’t go at midday in the middle of July, when you’ll be sharing the spot with quite a few others 😅).

3. Ha Ling Peak: A Challenge with a Breathtaking Reward

If you fancy pushing yourself a bit harder and Grassi Lakes feels like just a warm-up, turn your attention to Ha Ling Peak. This striking flat-topped mountain dominates the landscape south of Canmore, and climbing it is one of those experiences you simply won’t forget. Fair warning though: it’s a proper slog, so make sure you’ve got quality hiking boots.

The trail underwent a massive renovation a few years ago — loads of wooden steps and chains were added to the steepest sections, making it much safer now, even though it’s still just as physically demanding. Over roughly 3 to 4 hours, you’ll gain more than 700 metres of elevation, mostly through sharp switchbacks in the forest before emerging above the tree line onto a rocky scree field.

The view from the summit, though, is worth every drop of sweat. The entire Bow Valley and town of Canmore spread out below you like a living map. It’s often extremely windy up on the ridge, so pack a windproof jacket even in the middle of summer — it can be bitterly cold up there.

4. Canmore Nordic Centre: From Cross-Country Skiing to Mountain Biking

Canmore has Olympic heritage, and even though it might not seem like it at first, this is more than just a pub quiz fact. Thanks to the 1988 Games, the town is home to the top-notch Canmore Nordic Centre Provincial Park — a place local athletes adore but tourists sometimes completely overlook. Right on the edge of town, you’ll find a year-round outdoor playground.

In winter, the centre transforms into a cross-country skiing paradise with more than 65 kilometres of perfectly groomed, world-class trails. You’ll find routes for complete beginners as well as seasoned pros, and because the trails are partially lit in the evening, you can even ski after sunset. If you don’t have your own gear, the local rental shop Trail Sports will sort you out.

In summer, the snow melts away to reveal a fantastic network of mountain biking trails. Narrow forest singletracks weave between the trees and offer incredible fun. Lukáš and I aren’t exactly professional bikers, so we always appreciated the wider, well-maintained paths where you can enjoy a pleasant walk towards Mine Meadow.

5. Quarry Lake: Summer Cool-Down by the Lake

When the mercury climbs towards 30°C in summer and Canmore starts baking, every local heads straight to Quarry Lake. This lake was created by flooding a former mine and is now a gorgeous recreation area with sandy beaches and sweeping grassy areas that are absolutely made for an afternoon picnic.

I should say upfront, though — swimming in Quarry Lake is really only for the brave among you. The water is freezing even in the warmest summer months, fed by melting snow from the surrounding mountains, so think of it more like a mild cold-water dip. 😁 For a quick refresh, though, it works an absolute treat.

The lake offers stunning panoramic views of the Mount Rundle ridge on one side and Ha Ling Peak on the other. A flat, easy trail loops all the way around, so even if you don’t fancy a swim, you can enjoy a lovely evening stroll at sunset. Be aware that you’ll need to pay a parking fee — the town recently introduced one due to the huge influx of visitors.

6. Kananaskis Country: Alberta’s Hidden Treasure

If Canmore prides itself on being a quieter alternative to Banff, then Kananaskis Country is the ultimate escape from mass tourism. This vast area of parks and reserves begins just a 15-minute drive southeast of Canmore and offers pristine wilderness full of bears, elk, and mountain peaks that rival anything in the neighbouring national park.

Locals absolutely rave about this area. Our former colleague from Calgary hiked exclusively in Kananaskis, precisely because even on summer weekends you get that authentic feeling of having the mountains to yourself. I’d definitely recommend driving along Highway 40, which is a fantastic scenic experience in its own right (note: a large section is closed in winter to protect wildlife). For hiking, check out Ptarmigan Cirque for incredible valley views, or the slightly longer Rawson Lake trail.

💡 Practical note: Unlike Canmore, if you want to park and explore Kananaskis Country, you’ve needed to buy a Kananaskis Conservation Pass since 2021. It might sound a bit confusing that you need a different pass for each direction from town, but trust me — the money you invest in this pass pays for itself in quieter trails.

7. Spray Lakes Provincial Park and the Dusty Smith-Dorrien Road

Just above Canmore, if you drive past Grassi Lakes and continue up the unpaved road known as Smith-Dorrien Trail, the wild world of Spray Lakes Provincial Park opens up before you. This elongated reservoir in a narrow mountain valley is where some scenes from the film The Revenant with Leonardo DiCaprio were shot, and the atmosphere here is genuinely rugged and Nordic.

The road itself is an experience — incredibly dusty in summer and covered in a thick layer of packed snow in winter — but you can manage it carefully in a regular car (just make sure your rental company doesn’t prohibit driving on gravel roads). It’s precisely this more difficult access that keeps the area beautifully deserted.

In summer, you’ll often see people on paddleboards or in kayaks on the lake, while in winter, when the water freezes solid, it becomes a popular spot for ice fishing and open-air skating. Along the way, you’ll also find trailheads for hikes like Tent Ridge or Smutwood Peak — some of the most photogenic (and quite demanding) trails in the area.

8. Grotto Canyon: A Walk Through a Dry Riverbed

Grotto Canyon is a fascinating and slightly different kind of outing from what you’d usually do in the Rockies — instead of climbing a high hill for views, you’re descending deep into a narrow limestone canyon. It’s about a fifteen-minute drive from central Canmore along the old 1A highway.

The entire hike follows the bed of a dry creek (in spring, when the snow melts, there can be some water, so bring waterproof boots). As you venture deeper into the canyon, the walls begin to rise and narrow around you until you reach a small waterfall surrounded by fascinating geological formations. A brilliant bonus is that keen-eyed visitors can spot centuries-old Indigenous pictographs painted in red ochre on the smooth rock walls.

We especially love this outing in winter. When the creek and waterfalls freeze, the entire canyon floor transforms into a thick ice slide and you can wander through it like an ice kingdom — but don’t even think about coming here in winter without crampons on your boots, or you’ll be falling over with every step 😅.

9. Policeman’s Creek Boardwalk and Bow River Loop

Sometimes you simply don’t feel like trudging uphill for hours, and for exactly those days, Canmore has a perfectly lovely network of easy, well-maintained trails right in town. The most beautiful of them is the Policeman’s Creek Boardwalk, a wooden walkway that winds through the heart of town above wetlands and springs.

It starts right by Main Street, so you can grab a coffee and a warm muffin, and within two minutes you’re strolling along wooden planks surrounded by reeds and trees, with snow-capped peaks rising in the background above you. It’s a magical spot where you might come across ducks, beavers, and with a bit of luck (or bad luck) even a wandering moose.

The boardwalk connects seamlessly to the Bow River Loop, which forms a large circuit around the turquoise Bow River. The path crosses the old Engine Bridge — a favourite stop for photographers that breathes the industrial history of the entire valley. It’s an absolutely idyllic stroll before dinner.

10. Canmore Cave Tours (Rat’s Nest Cave)

I’ll admit, a cave called Rat’s Nest didn’t exactly fill me with excitement at first. But just outside town, beneath Grotto Mountain, lies a cave system that will convince you Canmore has yet another ace up its sleeve — one that’s been left in an almost entirely wild, untouched state.

Don’t expect paved walkways or colourful artificial lighting here — you can’t enter the cave without a guide from Canmore Cave Tours, and before going in you’ll be kitted out with a coverall, helmet, and headlamp. What awaits is squeezing through narrow crevices, crawling on your belly, but also admiring enormous stalactites, underground pools, and the bones of prehistoric animals.

Given that the temperature inside the cave stays a constant 5°C year-round, it’s an absolutely fantastic activity when it’s bitterly cold outside in winter and the thermometers read minus twenty, or when it rains all day in summer and there’s no point heading out for an outdoor hike.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to Stay in Canmore and Banff

6 accommodations — wellness hotels, hotels and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE ⭐ Luxury

Malcolm Hotel Canmore

Luxury hotel in Canmore with a beautiful outdoor pool and views directly of the iconic Three Sisters mountain range. Offers top-notch service and comfort for discerning travelers.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Falcon Crest Lodge Canmore

Popular apartment complex in Canmore where you have your own kitchen and washing machine, which you’ll incredibly appreciate after a week of hiking. Ideal for longer stays and families.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Canmore Inn & Suites

Affordable option in Canmore for budget travelers. Offers pleasant and clean accommodation at a reasonable price.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability ⭐ Luxury

Fairmont Banff Springs

Iconic hotel in Banff – a massive castle set in the forest that resembles a fairytale palace. Offers luxury accommodation at the highest level with historic atmosphere.

★★★★ from €400+/night

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Moose Hotel and Suites

Very pleasant and more affordable option in Banff. Located within walking distance of the main Banff Avenue and offers comfortable accommodation.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Banff Caribou Lodge

Rustic hotel in Banff with authentic mountain atmosphere and excellent spa. Ideal for those seeking a traditional Canadian experience.

★★★★ Check prices

Check availability

11. Nakiska Ski Area: Winter Family Fun

Skiing in the Canadian Rockies is a topic all on its own, and while everyone raves about Sunshine Village or Lake Louise, we fell in love with Nakiska. It’s a resort about half an hour from Canmore that locals treat as something of a well-kept secret.

Nakiska was built for the alpine events during the 1988 Olympics, so the runs are wide, perfectly maintained, and incredibly fast. Locals love this resort because it has a much more relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere, and the lift queues are nothing like the maddening lines at the more famous national park resorts.

For those of us who like a lie-in, the proximity is a massive bonus. While getting to Lake Louise from Canmore would take over an hour and require a painfully early start for parking, you can leave Nakiska after breakfast and be flying down the slopes in no time. Lift passes also work out a bit friendlier on the wallet, which definitely counts when you’re watching your budget.

12. Alternative to Hot Springs

When people think of Banff, they immediately picture the famous Banff Upper Hot Springs or the historic Cave & Basin. The truth, however, is that you can’t actually swim at Cave & Basin — it serves only as a museum with an endangered species of snail — and the Upper Hot Springs tend to be so packed with tourists in the evening that you can barely find a spot to sit, let alone relax in peace.

If you’re staying in Canmore, you don’t need to drive north at all for a warm soak — there are several local alternatives. While there aren’t natural hot springs with an outdoor pool per se, a number of local hotels offer absolutely stunning “hot pools” with mountain views that you can access for a fee even without being a guest (for example, the Kananaskis Pomeroy Mountain Lodge nearby has the Kananaskis Nordic Spa — an incredible experience with outdoor saunas and pools at various temperatures).

The community recreation centre, Elevation Place, also has a beautiful modern pool complex with a large hot tub where locals go to unwind after tough hikes. It might not sound as romantic as natural springs, but trust me — after a day in the mountains, bubbling hot water with a view of the valley will bring you back to life just as well, and at a fraction of the cost.

13. A Trip into History at Canmore Museum

Canmore has a surprisingly rich and gritty history that’s far less polished and tourism-oriented than Banff’s story. This town began as a tough coal-mining settlement, and the mines only closed relatively recently in 1979. It’s this fascinating transformation from industrial village to mountain resort that the local Canmore Museum documents.

It’s located right in the town centre in the Civic Centre building, and while it’s not enormous, you can easily spend an hour here. They have great interactive exhibits about the geology of the mountain range, coal mining, and how the Olympic preparations changed the town forever. Admission is just a few dollars, making it a perfect low-key activity for a rainy afternoon.

Right next to the museum, you can also visit the NWMP Barracks (North West Mounted Police Barracks). It’s the oldest original building in Canmore, dating from 1893, which once housed police patrols keeping order among the rowdy miners. Today, costumed guides will happily regale you with tales of how tough life was on Canada’s Wild West.

14. Helicopter Tour Over the Rocky Mountains

I’ll be honest — a helicopter flight sat in the “one day, when we can afford it” column of our bucket list for ages, and then someone gave it to us as a gift. Since then, I recommend it to absolutely everyone, because I guarantee that seeing these massive mountain ranges from a bird’s-eye view will bring tears to your eyes.

You can choose from shorter 15-minute flights circling the Three Sisters to longer trips over the glaciers of Mt. Assiniboine (often called “Canada’s Matterhorn”), which would otherwise take several days to reach on foot. We once received a scenic flight like this as a gift, and the feeling when the helicopter rises above the forested valley and you see miniature spruce trees and glacial pools below is something that’s nearly impossible to put into words.

The helipad is just a short distance from central Canmore, and these scenic flights are obviously best planned for clear, sunny days when your views won’t be obscured by low clouds.

15. Daily Trips to Banff’s Top Attractions

Let’s be clear: staying in Canmore absolutely does not mean you’ll miss out on the wonders of Banff — it’s actually the perfect strategic base for day trips to the park’s most famous sites. When you hop in the car in Canmore in the morning, you can reach the legendary Lake Louise in Canada in under an hour, or neighbouring Moraine Lake (though these days you can only get there by shuttle bus — remember to book months in advance!).

You can hike to the top of Sulphur Mountain or ride the Banff Gondola up, explore Johnston Canyon with its gorgeous waterfalls, or drive along one of the world’s most beautiful roads — the Icefields Parkway — towards Jasper National Park.

If you’re planning to spend several days in Banff and are thinking about working or spending an extended period in Canada, don’t forget to read our detailed article about what it’s like to work in Canada, where we share our personal adventures and experiences.

Food and Drink: Where to Refuel After a Hike

As I mentioned earlier, food prices in Banff can be genuinely eye-watering. While Canmore isn’t exactly “cheap” either, restaurants here offer much better value for money, and the service is far friendlier since it’s locals who actually eat here. As a rough guide, expect to pay around 25–35 CAD (about £15–£20 / €17–€23) for a decent main course — and that’s before tips and local tax, so budget a little extra.

Our absolute morning essential was always Rocky Mountain Bagel Co. They bake the best, freshest bagels for miles around, and their breakfast sandwiches with egg and bacon (plus excellent drip coffee) will fuel you for any mountain. Queues around eight in the morning often stretch out the door, but they move quickly, so don’t give up.

For lunch or a post-hike dinner, you absolutely must visit Grizzly Paw Pub & Brewing Company. It’s a local brewery right on the main street where, alongside a cracking Alberta beef burger, you’ll get outstanding craft beers — and for those who don’t drink alcohol, they brew their own craft sodas in flavours like root beer and grapefruit. It’s one of those proper, wood-panelled Canadian pubs with a buzzing atmosphere. Another great tip is Blake, a more modern restaurant with views that serves fantastic Asian fusion dishes when you need a break from burgers and chips.

Practical Tips to Wrap Up

To keep your Canadian holiday stress-free, it pays to think ahead about a few seemingly small details that can save you heaps of time and money once you’re there.

Where to Get Mobile Data?

Canada has notoriously expensive mobile plans, and roaming charges from UK networks can quickly add up, so we recommend buying an eSIM in advance. Holafly offers excellent coverage (we’ve also written a detailed Holafly review).

We wouldn’t travel without it, because it saves you the hassle the moment you land. You step off the plane at Calgary Airport, switch on your data, and can immediately pull up navigation to the mountains without faffing about trying to buy a local SIM at some kiosk.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

Canadian healthcare may be world-class, but for visitors it’s prohibitively expensive. Even a simple sprained ankle on a hike could cost you tens of thousands of pounds without insurance. For shorter trips, a good UK travel insurance policy will do the job. For longer stays — or if you’re planning to work — we’ve been using SafetyWing for years (check out our SafetyWing review).

It works brilliantly as a subscription and you can set it up even when you’re already on the road. Lukáš used to pay month by month, which gave us complete freedom without needing a fixed return date.

Passes and Permits

If you’re staying in Canmore, you don’t need to pay anything. However, the moment you drive past the Banff National Park sign, you must have a valid Discovery Pass (national parks pass). For visits shorter than a week, buy a day pass. If you’re staying longer or travelling as a family, it’s worth purchasing an annual Discovery Pass — you can even have it mailed to your home before you fly out.

Simply hang the pass from your rear-view mirror and you’re sorted. Park wardens check car parks quite diligently, and fines for a missing pass can seriously dent your holiday budget — so don’t try to cut corners on this one.

Further Reading

If you’re already exploring the beauty of the Canadian Rockies, you’ll definitely find our other articles packed with tips and itineraries from this incredible country useful:

• Banff National Park: Complete Guide to What to See
• Lake Louise, Canada: Tips on When to Go and How to Beat the Crowds
• Working Holiday: What’s It Like to Work in Canada?

FAQ — Canmore vs. Banff: Your Most Common Questions

I’ve gathered the most frequently asked questions readers send me when they’re wrestling with the Canmore vs. Banff dilemma. If there’s anything I’ve missed, feel free to drop me a message.

When Lukáš and I lived and worked in western Canada back in 2016 and 2017, Jasper National Park was our magical retreat. While neighbouring Banff was bursting at the seams with tourists, Jasper offered a much more laid-back vibe. I remember cruising the legendary Icefields Parkway in our old Honda, popping into Jasper for a movie night, and squeezing in a hike or two along the way. It was pure freedom and one of the best experiences of our lives — and if you’re wondering about the best things to do in Jasper Canada, we’ve got plenty to share.

That’s exactly why our hearts broke in July 2024 when the news was flooded with footage of devastating wildfires. The flames consumed vast stretches of forest and, tragically, struck the town of Jasper itself. We sat at home glued to the news, watching in horror as the places where we’d laughed and sipped coffee were swallowed by fire. But nature is an incredibly powerful force. Although it took time and the park had to undergo a massive revitalisation effort, Jasper is awakening in new beauty in 2026. It looks a little different — charred stumps have replaced trees in many areas, but fresh green shoots are already pushing through, and the park carries a completely new, deeply powerful atmosphere.

So I decided to put together a guide on what awaits you in Jasper right now — what’s open, what’s still closed, where to sleep and eat, and how much to budget. Read on so you can hit the road fully prepared.

TL;DR

• Key changes for 2026: The beloved Valley of the Five Lakes officially reopens on 23 May 2026. However, Maligne Canyon and Mt. Edith Cavell remain closed for safety reasons.
• The town is alive: Downtown Jasper has been largely restored, and the iconic Jasper Park Lodge (JPL) survived the fire and is fully operational.
• Must-sees: A boat cruise to Spirit Island on Maligne Lake is an absolute must, as are Athabasca Falls and a walk on the Columbia Icefield’s Athabasca Glacier.
• Best time to visit: The best weather runs from June to September, but if you love stargazing, plan your trip for October when the Jasper Dark Sky Festival takes place (16–25 October 2026).
• Park passes: For 2026, we recommend picking up the Canada Strong Pass, which covers all Canadian national parks and directs a portion of the proceeds toward wildfire recovery.
• Getting there: The best option is to rent a car in Calgary or Edmonton and drive the iconic Icefields Parkway.

When to Visit Jasper and How to Get There

Planning a trip to the Canadian Rockies requires a bit of strategic thinking. Mountain weather is notoriously unpredictable, and conditions down in town can be worlds apart from what you’ll find up by the glaciers. Be prepared for the fact that logistics in vast Canada are a touch more demanding than in Europe, but with a solid plan, you’ll manage just fine. Let’s break it all down so you can save both your nerves and your wallet.

The absolute best time to visit Jasper is from late June to early September, when the turquoise lakes are at their most vibrant and most high-altitude trails are snow-free. We explored Canada in July and while it was beautifully warm during the day — t-shirt weather — the moment the sun dipped below the horizon, we were shivering in our down jackets. Count on chilly mornings and evenings no matter what. If you want to dodge the biggest crowds, September is your sweet spot. The autumn colours lend an unreal edge to the already dramatic landscape, and after the fires, the contrast between golden trees and charred trunks makes for a truly mesmerising scene.

The best way to reach Jasper is by car. Most visitors from the UK will fly into Calgary or Edmonton — you can find decent transatlantic fares by shopping around on flight comparison sites like Kiwi. Airlines such as WestJet and Air Canada operate direct routes from London, or you can look for connecting flights with other carriers. From Calgary, the route takes you through the stunning Banff National Park along the breathtaking Icefields Parkway (Highway 93), which is a jaw-dropping experience in its own right. The drive takes roughly five hours of pure driving time, but I guarantee you’ll spend the entire day stopping at every lookout. Lukáš and I have had great long-term experience with DiscoverCars, which we use worldwide to find the best car rental deals. Don’t forget that you’ll need a valid park pass to enter — for 2026, we highly recommend the annual Canada Strong Pass, which also directly supports the local community’s recovery efforts.

For general tips on planning a big road trip out west, check out our article on preparing for a road trip through Canada and the USA.

Where to Stay in Jasper and How Much to Budget

Finding accommodation in Jasper was already tricky before 2024, and the wildfires have made things even more challenging. Capacity is slowly recovering and many hotels are back in business, but demand is still massive and supply somewhat smaller than before. That means one absolutely golden rule: if you’re visiting in summer, book your accommodation a good six months in advance.

The town of Jasper is the perfect base for all your adventures. Plenty of great places to stay have survived, and we were incredibly relieved to learn that the iconic Jasper Park Lodge (JPL) on the shores of Lac Beauvert made it through the inferno unscathed. It’s definitely at the top end of the price scale — expect to pay around 600–800 CAD per night (roughly €400–530) — but if you’re after true luxury in log cabins with mountain views, it’s hard to beat. For us mere mortals, classic motels and hotels right in town are the way to go, with peak-season prices hovering around 250–350 CAD per night for two (about €165–230).

Canada is generally not a cheap destination, and the national parks even less so. You’ll save on groceries if you stock up at a big supermarket in the city before heading into the mountains, as prices in Jasper’s local shops tend to be about a third higher. If you’re planning to camp — which we did quite a lot in our trusty Chiquita — expect to pay around 30–40 CAD per night (roughly €20–27) at a national park campground, but sites vanish from the Parks Canada reservation system the moment they open in spring.

Things to Do in Jasper Canada: 12 Must-See Spots in 2026

Nature here truly doesn’t need our help — it does its thing on a grand scale, all by itself. Here are twelve places I’d only skip under extreme duress.

1. The Town of Jasper and Its Reborn Atmosphere

The heart of the entire park beats right in downtown Jasper. When you arrive today, you’ll feel the immense gratitude of the locals who managed to save much of their town. You’ll find charming little cafés, souvenir shops, and loads of outdoor gear stores, and a stroll down Connaught Drive with that crisp mountain air filling your lungs is simply wonderful.

Pop into the local visitor centre, where the rangers will give you the latest updates on bear activity along the trails and any closures. The community here has rallied together incredibly after the fires, and every pound you spend at local restaurants or shops helps them get back on their feet. And the atmosphere of the town in the evening, as the sun sets behind the mountains and the streets light up, is pure magic.

2. Maligne Lake and the Iconic Cruise to Spirit Island

This is the ultimate Jasper classic — the image almost everyone has seen on postcards. Maligne Lake is the largest glacial lake in the Canadian Rockies, and its deep turquoise colour will quite literally take your breath away. The drive from town takes just under an hour, and the road is one of the best spots to catch moose or bears right by the roadside.

The absolute highlight is the boat cruise to Spirit Island, a tiny islet with a handful of trees that holds sacred significance for Indigenous peoples. The cruise lasts about an hour and a half, with tickets running around 80 CAD (approximately €53). It’s not the cheapest outing and you need to book well in advance, but the view of that little island ringed by snow-capped peaks is worth every penny.

3. The Disappearing Medicine Lake

On the way to Maligne Lake, you’ll pass Medicine Lake — one of the park’s greatest natural mysteries. It’s called the “disappearing lake” because in autumn and winter, the water vanishes entirely underground, leaving behind a vast muddy basin crossed by a small stream. Indigenous peoples considered it pure magic; for modern geologists, it’s a fascinating system of underground caves that can’t drain the summer snowmelt fast enough, causing the lake to temporarily fill up.

We visited in the middle of summer when the lake was beautifully full, but today the charred trees along its shores create a hauntingly dramatic backdrop. Pull over for a quick stop, snap that striking contrast of blue water and fire-scarred forest, and take a moment to appreciate how endlessly nature reinvents itself.

4. Pyramid Lake and Patricia Lake

If you’re looking for a spot just outside town for a relaxed afternoon, these two lakes sitting side by side are a perfect choice. They’re nestled at the foot of the towering Pyramid Mountain, which has a distinctive rusty hue and glows beautifully at sunset.

At Pyramid Lake, I’d recommend renting a canoe or a paddleboard — though fair warning, the water is absolutely freezing and you really don’t want to fall in. There’s also a small wooden bridge leading to Pyramid Island, which is an incredibly popular and wonderfully romantic spot for a morning coffee while mist still rolls over the water and there’s not a soul in sight.

5. Valley of the Five Lakes (Reopening May 2026!)

This is huge news for every Jasper fan. Valley of the Five Lakes was one of the most popular easy-going hikes in the park, but it had been closed for a long time due to fire damage. The grand reopening is scheduled for 23 May 2026, and we honestly can’t wait to get back out there.

It’s a fairly easy loop trail of about 4.5 kilometres that takes you past five smaller lakes. Each one shimmers in a completely different shade of green and blue depending on its depth and algae content. It’s an ideal outing for families with kids or for those days when you don’t feel like scrambling up any big peaks but still want a proper taste of Canadian wilderness.

6. Athabasca Falls

Athabasca Falls may not be among Canada’s tallest waterfalls, but they’re certainly among the most powerful. The sheer volume of glacial water thundering into a narrow limestone canyon is so immense that you can hear the roar long before the falls come into view. You stand on the safe viewing platform and feel a fine icy mist on your face — which is actually quite refreshing on a hot summer’s day.

A network of short paved paths and stairs winds around the falls, making them accessible to everyone. But because they sit right off the Icefields Parkway, parking in summer can be a real battle during the middle of the day. I’d recommend heading out early in the morning or late in the afternoon, once the tour buses have ferried their passengers back to the hotels.

7. Sunwapta Falls

Just a short drive further south along the highway, you’ll find another stunning waterfall — Sunwapta Falls. Water from a nearby glacier plunges into a deep gorge, and a tree-topped island in the middle of the river splits the flow into two channels right before the drop. It’s an incredibly photogenic spot that always surprises visitors with its raw power.

A short trail from the upper main waterfall leads to the Lower Falls. Most tourists skip this roughly two-kilometre woodland walk, which is a big mistake — you’ll find yourself completely alone in the wild, and while the lower falls are smaller, they’re all the more enchanting for it.

8. Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Glacier

This is an experience you won’t forget in a hurry. Roughly on the border between Jasper and Banff national parks lies the Columbia Icefield — an enormous ice field from which several glaciers creep downhill. The most accessible is the Athabasca Glacier, where you can walk right up to its very edge and witness first-hand how this colossal mass of ice is, sadly, retreating more each year.

If you want to step onto the glacier itself, you have two options. You can book a guided tour (never venture out on your own — hidden crevasses are no joke), or hop aboard a massive vehicle called the Snocoach, whose wheels are as tall as an adult, and ride straight onto a safe section of ice. It’s admittedly a bit commercialised and the tickets aren’t cheap, but walking on thousands-of-years-old ice in a summer t-shirt and sipping crystal-clear glacial water is something pretty special.

9. Columbia Icefield Skywalk

While you’re at the glacier, you’ll likely be tempted by the nearby Skywalk attraction. It’s a glass-floored observation platform jutting out from a cliff high above Sunwapta Valley. You buy a combo ticket at the visitor centre and they shuttle you there by bus.

I’ll be blunt: the Skywalk is a bit of a tourist trap and it’s perpetually packed. If you’ve got a fear of heights and don’t mind paying a premium for the adrenaline rush of walking on glass 280 metres above a canyon, it’ll be a great experience. But we’ve always preferred lacing up our boots for a proper hike nearby, where you can soak in the views for free and without the crowds.

10. Wilcox Pass — The Perfect Hike

With the popular Mt. Edith Cavell and its stunning meadows still closed to the public after the fires, many hikers are searching for a worthy alternative. Our vote goes firmly to Wilcox Pass. The trailhead sits right by a campground near the Columbia Icefield, and the hike is roughly 8 kilometres return with about 400 metres of elevation gain.

It’s a steep climb right from the start, but once you break above the treeline, you’re rewarded with some of the most spectacular panoramic views of the Athabasca Glacier anywhere in the park. It’s also a spot where you’re almost guaranteed to encounter majestic bighorn sheep grazing calmly just metres from the trail. Definitely bring proper hiking boots, though — the terrain is rocky and it can be seriously windy up top even in summer.

11. Jasper Skytram to Whistler’s Peak

Want to see all of Jasper National Park spread out beneath you without hours of sweaty climbing? Hop on the Jasper Skytram — Canada’s highest and longest aerial tramway. In just a few minutes, it whisks you up to over 2,200 metres above sea level, just below the summit of Whistler’s Mountain.

From the upper station, I’d strongly recommend scrambling up an additional 200 metres of elevation to the actual summit. It’s quite a slog in the thin mountain air, but the 360-degree panorama spanning hundreds of kilometres of peaks and turquoise lakes far below is worth every drop of sweat. Just make sure you bring a warm jacket and a hat — even if it’s thirty degrees down in town, it can easily be freezing or snowing up top.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to Stay in Jasper

2 accommodations — wellness hotels, hotels and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE ⭐ Luxury

Jasper Park Lodge (JPL)

Iconic luxury cabin resort on the shores of Lac Beauvert that survived the 2024 fire. Offers incredible luxury with mountain views, ideal for those who want to experience true comfort in the wilderness.

★★★★ from 600-800 CAD/night (€420-560)

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Classic Motels and Hotels in Jasper Town

More common accommodation right in the town of Jasper, ideal for most visitors with a more reasonable price range. Offers a great location as a starting point for trips into the park.

★★★★ from 250-350 CAD/night (€175-245)

Check availability

12. Jasper Dark Sky Festival (16–25 October 2026)

If you’re considering an autumn trip to Canada, this is an event you absolutely shouldn’t miss. Jasper is the second-largest Dark Sky Preserve in the world, which means strict light-pollution regulations are in place, and the night sky here is impossibly clear, blanketed with millions of stars.

The festival offers a packed programme of space talks, evening stargazing sessions through massive telescopes led by local experts, and even symphony concerts performed right under the stars. Telescopes are set up around Pyramid Lake, you bundle up in a blanket with a cup of hot chocolate in hand, and with a bit of luck — if solar activity is high — you might even catch the northern lights dancing across the sky. It’s romance beyond words.

Closed Areas: What You Won’t See in 2026 Due to the Fires

I’ll be straight with you — some parts of the park suffered devastating damage, and their recovery will take many years. Parks Canada places absolute priority on visitor safety, as unstable ground and charred root systems create serious risks of landslides and falling trees.

In 2026, Maligne Canyon — our once-beloved limestone gorge full of bridges and waterfalls — remains completely closed. The fire destroyed most of the wooden infrastructure and safety barriers. Similarly, the entire area around the majestic Mt. Edith Cavell is off-limits this year, including the popular trails to the glacial lake at its base.

Longer multi-day backcountry routes for experienced hikers, such as the popular 44-kilometre Skyline Trail, are also reporting partial closures and limited operations in the 2026 season because some backcountry campsites along the route burned to the ground. Always check the official Parks Canada website for the latest updates before heading out.

Where to Eat in Jasper

Canada is a massive melting pot of cultures, and thankfully that spills over into the food scene. The town of Jasper has plenty of spots where you can reward yourself with a great meal after a long day in the mountains. And because many local businesses barely survived both Covid and the subsequent fires, your visit means even more to them.

Our absolute favourite mornings always started at the legendary Bear’s Paw Bakery. They serve the best cinnamon buns and enormous muffins that’ll fuel you for a full day of mountain adventures. Just be prepared to queue — the morning lines here are no joke.

For dinner and a well-earned pint, head straight to Jasper Brewing Co. — the first craft brewery ever to operate inside a Canadian national park. Try their brilliant Jasper the Bear Ale and pair it with poutine — Canada’s iconic fries smothered in gravy and cheese curds. It sounds strange, looks even stranger, but it’s a national institution! If you’re into Asian food, Kimchi House serves fantastic Korean dishes at reasonable prices, which is a real treat in an otherwise pricey mountain town.

Tips and Tricks for Travelling to Canada

Preparing for a road trip across the pond can get expensive if you don’t know where to save. Here’s a roundup of the services we’ve been using for years and genuinely stand behind.

Finding Cheap Flights

I covered flights and car rentals in more detail in the “How to Get to Jasper” section above, so feel free to scroll back up.

As a general rule, there’s no point waiting for last-minute miracles on transatlantic flights during peak summer — they simply don’t happen. We always set up price alerts on our favourite platform Kiwi in the autumn, and the moment we see a decent deal, we book without hesitation so we can relax.

Renting a Car in Canada

You simply can’t get around Canadian national parks without a car — public transport between lakes and viewpoints is practically non-existent. Lukáš and I have had consistently great results with the comparison site DiscoverCars, which we use all over the world. Ideally go for an SUV so you’ve got comfort and plenty of room for your rucksacks.

One important thing: make sure you have comprehensive insurance with zero excess. Stones flicked up by lorries on the highway can do a real number on your windscreen, and the last thing you want at the end of your dream holiday is a hefty bill at the rental desk.

Booking Accommodation

As I mentioned, book well in advance. Booking.com is our go-to hotel search engine because it covers everything from cheap highway motels to the most beautiful resorts. A massive perk is the free cancellation option on most listings, just in case your plans change.

When we’re searching for accommodation, we always read recent reviews from other travellers carefully, as they often reveal details you’d never spot from the professional photos. We also pay close attention to whether parking is included in the price, because in central Jasper it can sometimes be surprisingly tricky to find a spot.

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance and Mobile Data

Healthcare in North America is eye-wateringly expensive — breaking your leg on a glacier without insurance could cost you your life savings. For shorter trips we opt for travel insurance from providers like World Nomads or True Traveller, and for longer adventures we rely on True Traveller. You can read more in our review of SafetyWing and other travel insurance options.

To post those bear photos on Instagram straight away or navigate with Google Maps, grab an eSIM before you go. We’ve written about this in detail in our Holafly review. It saved us a ton of hassle hunting for Wi-Fi in cafés.

Where Else to Go in Canada

If you’ve hired a car for two or three weeks, it would be a huge shame to stay only in Jasper. Make sure you don’t miss the iconic Banff National Park with its impossibly blue lakes, or check out our detailed guide on what to see around Lake Louise. Western Canada is seriously addictive!

FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions About Jasper National Park

When planning a trip to the Canadian national parks, I keep getting the same questions — from park sizes to bear safety concerns. Here are the most common answers in one place, so you don’t have to scour the internet.

When Lukáš and I lived in Canada back in 2017, we were incredibly lucky to call a place near Yoho Canada home. We were based right in Lake Louise at the time — an amazing experience, but honestly, during peak season the tourist crowds there could get a bit overwhelming. Every time we had a day off and wanted to escape the masses, we’d jump in the car and head west across the provincial border into British Columbia. It took just about thirty minutes, and suddenly we were in a completely different world. Welcome to Yoho National Park.

The name “Yoho” comes from the Cree language and means awe or wonder — and trust me, that’s exactly what you’ll feel the first time you see the emerald waters of Emerald Lake or the majestic Takakkaw Falls. Although Yoho sits right next to the famous Banff National Park, it’s considerably smaller, wilder, and thankfully a lot quieter. For us, it was an absolute favourite, and to this day I love flicking through our old photos from trips to Natural Bridge, where a wild river carves its way through solid rock. ☺️

So here are our 10 tips for things you absolutely shouldn’t miss in this stunning corner of the Canadian Rockies — whether you’re planning a quick stop on a road trip or want to pitch a tent and stay for a week. I’ll also share advice on where to stay, how the Yoho National Park day pass works, and how to arm yourself with patience when booking the iconic Lake O’Hara bus.

TL;DR

If you’re sitting in the car, sipping a coffee from Tim Hortons and just need a quick rundown, here’s the essential stuff at a glance:

• The park’s star attraction: Don’t miss Emerald Lake. You can rent a canoe or walk around the entire lake on foot (it takes about 2.5 hours and it’s gorgeous).
• The tallest waterfall: Takakkaw Falls is the second-highest waterfall in all of Canada, and you can drive right up to it (unless you have a very long caravan — the road has some seriously tight switchbacks).
• Lake O’Hara: The most beautiful spot in the park, but you can’t get there without a bus reservation that sells out within seconds. On foot, it’s a tedious 11-kilometre forest road just one way.
• Admission: You’ll need a Parks Canada Discovery Pass (if you’re in Canada for a longer trip) or you can buy a day pass at the gate.
• Where to sleep: The closest place is the tiny village of Field, or alternatively neighbouring Lake Louise or the more affordable town of Golden.
• Watch out for bears: You’re in the wilderness. Both grizzlies and black bears call this place home, so bear spray is an absolute must on every hike.

Where is Yoho National Park located and how to get there

If you’re typing “where is Yoho National Park located” into Google right now, let me save you the trouble. Yoho lies in the province of British Columbia, right on the western slopes of the Canadian Rocky Mountains. To the east, it borders Banff National Park, and to the south, Kootenay National Park. It’s a very compact park, and the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) runs straight through it, making it incredibly easy to access.

The nearest major airport is in Calgary, Alberta. From there, it’s roughly a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the park via Banff and Lake Louise. If you’re flying in from the UK, you’ll find direct flights from London to Calgary with airlines like WestJet and Air Canada. We’ve had consistently great experiences with DiscoverCars for booking hire cars around the world, so I’d recommend sorting your rental right at the airport. Without a car, getting around Canada’s national parks is virtually impossible.

When entering the park, you’ll need a valid pass. You essentially have two options. You can buy a Yoho National Park day pass, which costs around 11 CAD (about €7.50) per person per day, or you can get an annual Parks Canada Discovery Pass (roughly 75 CAD / €50 per person, or 150 CAD / €100 for a whole vehicle). If you’re also planning to visit Banff, Jasper, and the Icefields Parkway, the annual pass will absolutely pay for itself after just seven days of travel.

When to visit Yoho and what the weather is like

The Canadian Rockies are stunning all year round, but if you want to tackle the best Yoho National Park hikes and see the lakes in their iconic turquoise glory, you need to come in summer. The ideal window is from late June to early September. Just bear in mind that mornings and evenings can be chilly even in July, and mountain weather can change from one minute to the next.

Winter in Yoho is magical, but many roads are closed. The road to Takakkaw Falls, for example, shuts down entirely for winter due to avalanche risk, and you’ll only reach Emerald Lake with proper winter tyres. If you’re a keen skier, you’ll appreciate the proximity of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort or the nearby Lake Louise Ski Resort — but for the average visitor, winter in the Canadian Rockies is more of a survival challenge than a holiday 😅.

Where to stay and how much camping costs in Yoho National Park

Finding accommodation inside the park is a bit of a challenge, because unlike Banff, there’s no big town here. The heart of the park is the village of Field, home to roughly 160 residents. It’s an absolutely charming little place full of small wooden houses, many of which operate as guesthouses. I’d highly recommend checking out the popular Truffle Pigs Lodge, which also has a fantastic restaurant, or the cosy Canadian Rockies Inn. Since accommodation is so limited, rooms tend to get booked months in advance and prices during peak season can climb to 200–270 € per night.

An alternative is to stay in nearby Lake Louise, which makes a strategic base for exploring both parks. That’s where we used to admire the majestic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. If you’re after something more budget-friendly and don’t mind a bit of a drive, the town of Golden in British Columbia (about an hour from Field) is a great option — you’ll find supermarkets and more affordable motels like the Travelodge by Wyndham. You can compare prices easily on Booking.com.

For nature lovers, the best option is of course camping in Yoho National Park. The park offers four main campgrounds, with Kicking Horse Campground being the most popular. Camping will set you back a very reasonable 20–27 € per night per campsite. Campgrounds typically open in May and close at the beginning of October. Make sure to book your spot through the Parks Canada reservation system as soon as bookings open in spring, because the best sites vanish within the first few hours.

10 best things to see and do in Yoho Canada

Right, let’s get into it. Here are the places Lukáš and I kept coming back to every chance we got, plus a few we didn’t manage ourselves but you absolutely should. We’ve packed in everything from our time spending every free moment soaking up this incredible corner of the Rockies.

1. Emerald Lake and the iconic canoes

Emerald Lake is the absolute jewel of the park and quite possibly one of the most photographed spots in all of Canada. As the name suggests, the water has an incredible emerald-green colour, created by fine rock flour from melting glaciers. Unlike Moraine Lake in Banff, this lake sits at a slightly lower elevation, which means it thaws earlier and is surrounded by lush green vegetation.

When I look back at our old Yoho National Park photos (still saved on my phone as IMG_4960 and so on), I can vividly recall the peacefulness of walking around the lake. The Emerald Lake Loop trail is just under six kilometres, almost entirely flat, and takes roughly two to two and a half hours at a leisurely pace. Along the way, you’ll spot plenty of wildflowers and might even encounter a moose — they love hanging out in the marshes at the back of the lake. I still remember the time we stood there watching a moose family grazing contentedly just a stone’s throw from us.

If you fancy a proper romantic experience, you can rent one of the iconic red canoes right on the shore. Be warned though — romance comes at a price. Canoe hire from The Emerald Sports and Gifts costs about 90 CAD (around €60) per hour. It’s not cheap, but the view of Mount Burgess from the middle of the lake is simply worth every penny.

2. Takakkaw Falls and the roaring water

The second-highest waterfall in Canada, plunging from an incredible height of 384 metres, is something that will absolutely blow you away. The word “Takakkaw” means “magnificent” in the Cree language — and honestly, they nailed it. Even the drive to the falls through the Yoho Valley is an unforgettable experience in itself.

The road is very narrow with several extremely tight switchbacks where longer vehicles and caravans actually have to reverse. But once you finally reach the car park, you’ll hear the thunderous roar of falling water long before you even catch a glimpse of the falls.

From the car park, a short paved path leads directly to the base of the waterfall. The closer you get, the wetter you’ll be — the icy spray from that height carries for dozens of metres. Try to arrive early in the morning or in the late afternoon to avoid the biggest crowds, and you might even spot a beautiful rainbow hovering above the cascading water. It’s an absolutely stunning sight.

3. Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse River

This spot is incredibly easy to reach — it’s just a few minutes’ drive off the main highway on the road to Emerald Lake. Natural Bridge is a natural rock bridge that the wild Kicking Horse River has carved through massive limestone over thousands of years. Originally, a regular waterfall flowed here, but over time the water found its way through cracks beneath the rock and created this fascinating formation.

When we visited for the first time and snapped our photos (the famous IMG_4979 in our archive 😁), what fascinated us most was the sheer brute force of the water. The Kicking Horse River is no gentle stream — it’s a massive surge of blue-white water thundering beneath the rock bridge with a deafening roar.

There are viewing platforms along the river, and I’m genuinely asking you — please don’t climb over the railings for a better photo. The rocks are constantly wet and slippery, and this river takes no prisoners. The view from the platform is brilliant too, I promise. 😉 The whole visit won’t take more than half an hour, making it an ideal quick stop.

4. Lake O’Hara and the booking frenzy

This is the place that gets talked about the most in connection with Yoho, and simultaneously breaks the hearts of thousands of visitors every year. Lake O’Hara is an utterly pristine alpine area full of turquoise lakes, dramatic peaks, and golden larches. To protect this fragile environment, the park has imposed extremely strict limits — only 42 people per day can access the area by bus (not counting those staying at the expensive lodge or campground up there).

The bus runs only from 14 June to 7 October and a ticket costs 24.50 CAD (about €17). Sounds reasonable, but honestly, actually securing a reservation is more stressful than sitting your university finals 😅. Bookings open in spring (check the Parks Canada website for the exact date) and sell out in the blink of an eye. You’ll typically need five devices, lightning-fast internet, and a hefty dose of luck.

If you can’t snag a bus ticket, there’s still one option — you can walk. That means hiking 11 kilometres along a rather dull, wide forest road with a decent elevation gain just to reach the lake, then another 11 kilometres back. And that doesn’t even count the hikes you’ll want to do once you’re up there. We gave this one a miss, but I know people who did it and said the views at the top made every aching muscle worth it.

5. Fossils at the Burgess Shale

Did you know that Yoho is a UNESCO World Heritage Site? That’s thanks to the Burgess Shale, one of the most important palaeontological sites on the planet. Here you’ll find fossils of marine creatures over half a billion years old, with incredibly well-preserved soft tissues.

There’s a catch though — you can’t visit on your own. To reach the fossil beds at Mount Stephen or Walcott Quarry, you must join an organised guided hike led by Parks Canada. These are full-day treks (around 7 to 8 hours) and quite physically demanding, with steep ascents along the way. We didn’t manage to do this one in the end (our son Jonáš wasn’t born yet and I’ll be honest, I was a bit daunted by such a long slog), but if I could, I’d go in a heartbeat. If you’re fascinated by the history of our planet and evolution, this will absolutely captivate you. You can literally hold a rock in your hand and see the imprint of a creature from long before the age of dinosaurs.

6. Iceline Trail for keen hikers

If you’re a strong hiker looking for the best Yoho National Park hikes, the Iceline Trail is the cream of the crop. This roughly 20-kilometre loop takes you high above the Yoho Valley, where you’ll walk right alongside the edges of vast glaciers.

The view of Takakkaw Falls from the opposite slope is simply breathtaking. It’s a genuinely challenging full-day hike though, so bring plenty of water, snacks, and most importantly, wear proper footwear. If you need help choosing the right gear, check out our guide on how to pick hiking boots, because you won’t last five minutes on the Iceline Trail in trainers. The trail starts at the car park below Takakkaw Falls and passes several smaller waterfalls and glacial lakes along the way.

7. An easy walk to Wapta Falls

If you’re after something less strenuous, we’d recommend Wapta Falls. This massive waterfall — 30 metres high and 150 metres wide on the Kicking Horse River — is one of the largest by water volume in all of Canada.

The trail winds through forest, is about 2.5 kilometres one way, and is manageable for almost anyone, including families with children. At the end of the path, you can descend to a small clearing right at the base of the falls, where you’ll truly feel the immense power of the cascading water. The trail can get quite muddy after rain, so sturdy boots are advisable here too. This spot is far less crowded than Emerald Lake, so you can enjoy a bit of that true Canadian tranquillity.

8. Spiral Tunnels — an engineering marvel

Building the railway through the Rockies was a nightmare for Canadian Pacific in the nineteenth century. Trains at Kicking Horse Pass frequently derailed due to the impossibly steep gradient. Engineers came up with a brilliant solution — they bored spiral tunnels into the surrounding mountains. The train enters the mountain, loops around inside, and emerges several dozen metres higher or lower.

On Highway 1 you’ll find a viewpoint (Spiral Tunnels Viewpoint) from where you can watch this spectacle unfold. If you’re lucky enough to catch a long freight train, you’ll witness a curious sight — the locomotive is already emerging from the upper tunnel entrance while the tail end of the train is still entering the lower one. The train essentially crosses over itself. It’s a popular stop that takes just a few minutes, but the sight is well worth it.

Lukáš and Lucie recommend

Where to Stay in Yoho National Park

6 accommodations — wellness hotels, resorts and other lodging options

⭐ TOP CHOICE 🏡 Guesthouse/B&B

Truffle Pigs Lodge

Popular guesthouse in the village of Field, where they also cook excellent food. One of the few accommodations directly in Yoho National Park.

★★★★ 300-400 CAD/night in high season

Check availability 🏡 Guesthouse/B&B

Canadian Rockies Inn

Cozy guesthouse in the tiny village of Field with about 160 residents. Booking months in advance is a must.

★★★★ 300-400 CAD/night in high season

Check availability ⭐ Luxury

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

Majestic hotel in nearby Lake Louise, a strategic starting point for both Yoho and Banff parks.

★★★★

Check availability 🏨 Hotel

Travelodge by Wyndham

More affordable motel in the town of Golden, about an hour’s drive from Field. A good choice for budget accommodation with commuting.

★★★★

Check availability ⛺ Camping

Kicking Horse Campground

The most popular campground in Yoho National Park, typically open from May to early October. Reservations sell out within the first few hours.

★★★★ 30-40 CAD/night

Check availability 🌲 Resort

Emerald Lake Lodge

Luxury lodge with a romantic restaurant, Mount Burgess Dining Room, offering stunning views of the emerald waters of Emerald Lake.

★★★★

Check availability

9. The charming village of Field

As I mentioned earlier, Field is essentially the only settlement within the national park. Make sure to stop here for at least a short wander. It has a wonderful intimate atmosphere — the houses are colourful and well-kept, with towering rock walls rising up on all sides.

There’s also a small visitor centre where you can pick up a printed Yoho National Park map, ask the rangers about current bear activity on the trails, and grab some souvenirs. Field has a rich railway history, which is evident from the local architecture and a small cemetery nearby.

10. Winter fun at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

Although it lies just outside the boundaries of Yoho National Park in the town of Golden, I can’t leave out Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. In winter, it’s a fantastic ski resort for lovers of steep terrain and deep champagne powder.

In summer, the resort transforms into a paradise for mountain biking and is also home to a sanctuary for an orphaned grizzly bear named Boo. It might tug at your heartstrings to see a bear in an enclosure, but Boo has an enormous stretch of mountainside at his disposal — the sanctuary was built to save him after his mother was killed by a poacher. A gondola ride up to the Eagle’s Eye restaurant (the highest-elevation restaurant in Canada) is a luxurious experience in its own right.

Where to eat well in Yoho

Dining in Canadian national parks tends to be pricey and uninspiring, but Yoho has one brilliant exception. It’s called Truffle Pigs Bistro and you’ll find it right in the village of Field. It’s an absolute gem of a restaurant with a laid-back atmosphere, excellent craft beer, and food you’d never expect in a tiny hamlet in the middle of the mountains. They serve superb beef ribs, fantastic burgers, and incredible desserts. It gets packed in summer, so I’d recommend arriving outside the main lunch and dinner rush — or just queue up, because it’s genuinely worth the wait.

If you’re in the mood for something more romantic and want to splash out, head to the Mount Burgess Dining Room at Emerald Lake Lodge. Lukáš and I celebrated our anniversary there, and I’ll remember the view from the window across the emerald surface of the lake for the rest of my life. They specialise in local British Columbia produce and Alberta beef.

Where to go next: What to see nearby

From Yoho, we continued east and honestly, we could have kept driving forever. Here’s what awaited us along the way:

• Lake Louise: The neighbouring gem with Canada’s most famous lake and our former home.
• Banff National Park: A Canadian classic with a bustling town, hot springs, and the iconic Moraine Lake.
• Icefields Parkway: One of the most beautiful roads in the world, taking you from Lake Louise all the way to Jasper National Park past dozens of glaciers and waterfalls.

Practical tips before you go

Before you start packing your rucksack and booking flights, I’ve put together a few purely practical bits to keep in mind. I know what it’s like to plan a big trip to Canada, and sometimes it’s the most basic details that slip through the cracks.

When Lukáš and I first set off to explore the Rockies, we made plenty of rookie mistakes ourselves — from unnecessarily expensive mobile roaming to underestimating travel insurance, which in mountain terrain is something you really can’t afford to skimp on. I hope these tips will save you not just a lot of stress, but a fair bit of money too.

Hiring a car for your road trip

Having your own car is an absolute must for exploring Canada’s national parks. Buses run reasonably well between major cities, but they won’t drop you at trailheads, which means you’d be stuck with overpriced organised tours. We regularly use the comparison site DiscoverCars.com, where you can filter all available branches right at the major airports.

When choosing your vehicle, definitely consider a larger SUV, especially if you’re planning to venture beyond the main paved roads. Some access roads to more remote lakes can be gravel or full of potholes, so higher ground clearance is a real bonus. Plus, in a more spacious car, you can always have an emergency kip if a storm catches you out.

Don’t forget proper travel insurance

Medical care in Canada is astronomically expensive, and it’s definitely not something you want to pay out of pocket. A broken leg on a trek or a simple case of appendicitis without proper insurance could cost you tens of thousands of pounds — and that would be a pretty miserable souvenir from your holiday. For longer trips and our nomadic lifestyle, we prefer SafetyWing (have a look at our SafetyWing review too).

For shorter holidays of around two weeks, we’ve also had great results with providers like True Traveller, which is well-known among British travellers. Always read the policy terms carefully and check whether your cover includes mountain hiking above certain altitudes. We also like to add helicopter rescue cover, just in case.

Staying connected on the road

Local Canadian SIM cards from carriers like Bell or Rogers are outrageously expensive for visitors, and the data allowances are laughably small. You can easily end up paying over £50 for just a few gigabytes. Luckily, we discovered this in time and solved it neatly with an eSIM from Holafly.

You can buy one conveniently online from home, load it onto your phone via a simple QR code, and your data kicks in the moment you land. It’s such a relief not having to dash around the airport hunting for a carrier shop. Just make sure beforehand that your smartphone actually supports eSIM technology.

FAQ — Frequently asked questions about Yoho National Park

I’ve gathered the most common questions I get from readers planning a trip to Yoho. If there’s anything I’ve missed, feel free to drop me a message.