Wondering what to see in South Bohemia but not sure whether to head for a castle, a fishpond, or somewhere the kids will last longer than an hour? You know the feeling – you’ve got a free weekend or a few days off, you fancy both nature and history, but the “must-see” list is so long you end up staying home instead. The two of us have been exploring South Bohemia for years (Lucka is a Písek native, no less), so here’s our honest rundown with none of the fluff.
You’ll find three things here: our tried-and-tested tips from our own trips to specific towns, castles and spots in nature; a rundown of when to go where and what to book early (tickets to the popular chateaux and accommodation in high season sell out fast); and a sense of where to base yourself in the region so you can skip the tedious commuting.
What to see and do in South Bohemia
South Bohemia is a region where in a single day you can fit in a fairy-tale castle, a fishpond and a beer under the arcades. Here are the places we reckon are worth it – and for each one we’ve got a detailed article so you know exactly what you’re getting into.
- Český Krumlov – the region’s most photogenic town, perfect even for a day trip, but at its loveliest early in the morning before the crowds roll in.
- České Budějovice with its huge square and brewery; in December the Christmas markets are a big draw too.
- Třeboň – fishponds, spas and peace and quiet; a great base for cycling trips around the Svět pond.
- Červená Lhota Chateau – a romantic water chateau that looks straight out of a fairy tale, because fairy tales really were filmed here.
- Holašovice – a UNESCO-listed village of rural Baroque architecture that takes just a couple of hours to explore.
- Tábor with its Hussite history and maze of lanes; nearby you can also stop off for some superb wine.
- Jindřichův Hradec and the third-largest chateau in the country, the gateway to Czech Canada with its mysterious Landštejn Castle.
- Bechyně – a spa town famous for ceramics and its rainbow bridge, plus the Renaissance gem of Slavonice right by the Austrian border.
For nature and a bit of activity, head to Lipno, which draws cross-country skiers in winter and swimmers in summer, or to the Šumava mountains, which you can even tackle with a pushchair. Parents will appreciate our tips for Písek with kids or the Fiziland water park in Protivín. And if you want a sure thing, we’ve also walked the region’s most beautiful towns and put together 15 places for a holiday in South Bohemia.
When to go
For our money, the best months are May, June and September. The weather’s still (or already) holding, the castles and chateaux are open, but the crowds aren’t as insane as during the summer holidays. Spring is lovely for walks around the Třeboň fishponds and the Šumava in bloom, while September is great for cycling trips, mushroom picking and the grape harvest around Tábor.
Summer (July and August) is fantastic if you’re heading for the water – Lipno, the swimming spots and the fishponds are buzzing. But be prepared for Český Krumlov, Holašovice and the popular chateaux to be packed, and accommodation in town centres significantly pricier. If you can, at least go on a weekday or early in the morning.
Winter has its charm too: cross-country skiing at Lipno, the Advent atmosphere and the Christmas markets in České Budějovice. Most castles and chateaux, though, are closed from November to March or only offer limited tours, so always check the opening hours in advance so you don’t end up standing at a locked gate.
How to get to South Bohemia
From Prague it’s about a 2-hour drive to České Budějovice on the D3 motorway, and even quicker to Tábor. From Brno you’ll usually go via Jihlava and Jindřichův Hradec. By train you can comfortably reach the larger towns (Budějovice, Tábor, Písek, Třeboň, Jindřichův Hradec) with connecting buses from there – for town trips, public transport is perfectly adequate and saves you on parking.
The catch is that the heart of the region – the Šumava, Czech Canada, small chateaux like Červená Lhota or villages such as Holašovice – is far more accessible by car, as services out there run infrequently. Bear in mind that in Český Krumlov and the centres of the larger towns you’ll park in paid park-and-ride car parks (often around 50–100 Kč/hour), so it pays to park once and walk. In smaller towns parking tends to be cheap or free.
Where to stay in South Bohemia
Where to sleep depends on what you want to fit in. For exploring towns and castles, the most practical thing is to pick one base and set out from there – distances in the region are short. For relaxation and nature, head instead for the water and the mountains.
- Guesthouses in town centres (Budějovice, Krumlov, Třeboň) – ideal if you want to do everything on foot and enjoy a pub in the evening, but the priciest option in high season.
- Cottages and apartments around Lipno and in the Šumava – the best choice for families and longer stays, especially if you want peace and quiet and your own kitchen.
- Hotels and spa houses in Třeboň and Bechyně – for those who want to unwind and enjoy some wellness.
- Campsites by the fishponds – the cheapest summer by the water, great for tents and caravans alike.
How to save
South Bohemia doesn’t have to be expensive if you watch out for a few things. You’ll save the most by planning ahead and steering clear of the tourist traps.
- Book accommodation well ahead in high season – for summer dates and Český Krumlov ideally 2–3 months in advance, and for Advent in Budějovice early too. The closer to the date, the pricier and emptier the offer.
- Family and group tickets at castles and chateaux usually pay off – family tickets tend to be cheaper than adding up individual ones, so always ask at the box office.
- Eat a little way off the square – in Krumlov and Budějovice you’ll pay a premium right on the main streets, while two streets over you’ll get the same for half the price.
- Mix paid and free – around the fishponds, in the Šumava and in Krumlov there’s plenty of beauty to see for free, so save the paid attractions for the ones that genuinely appeal to you.
Booking your accommodation early saves you the most and gives you a better choice. Take a look at our accommodation tips.
