If you love the movie musical Mamma Mia!, packed with legendary ABBA songs, chances are you’ve dreamed of packing your bags and setting off to find the fictional island of Kalokairi. But right off the bat I have to surprise you with one crucial fact that a lot of fans have no idea about, because the Mamma Mia filming locations aren’t where you’d expect. The first and second films weren’t even shot in the same country, so Kalokairi doesn’t actually exist as one single spot on the map.
While the original Mamma Mia! from 2008 is pure Greece, the beloved sequel Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again from 2018 moved hundreds of kilometres away. For the second film, the crew chose the Croatian island of Vis, which offered superb conditions and stunning, untouched scenery. So anyone heading to Greece expecting to find locations from both films is going to be pretty disappointed.
I’ve put together an overview of all the key spots from both films (Greek and Croatian) so you can plan a trip that actually makes sense. We’ll explore the Greek islands of Skopelos and Skiathos, take a peek at mainland Pelion, and then head over to Croatian Dalmatia. Grab your summer dress, cue up Dancing Queen in your head, and let’s go.
A summary for those who don’t have time to read the whole article
- Where the first film was shot: Mostly on the Greek island of Skopelos, a smaller part on neighbouring Skiathos, and key scenes on the mainland Pelion peninsula (specifically in Damouchari).
- Where the sequel was shot: The follow-up was filmed exclusively on the Croatian island of Vis in Dalmatia (plus pickup shots done in studios in England and France).
- The wedding chapel: The famous chapel on the rock is called Agios Ioannis Kastri and you’ll find it in the north of Skopelos.
- How many steps the chapel has: Sources differ quite a bit, with the number most often quoted somewhere between 106 and 198 steep steps.
- How to get there: Skopelos is reached via the airport on Skiathos (or from the mainland) and then a ferry. You get to Croatian Vis by ferry from Split.
- When to go: Late May, June or September are ideal – you’ll avoid the worst of the fan crowds and the summer heat.
- The main tourist trap: Neither Donna’s villa from the first film nor the Bella Donna hotel from the second one actually exist – they’re film sets and digital effects.
- Top tip: On Skopelos, definitely rent a car or scooter. The island is very hilly and public transport to the film locations isn’t great.
Where Mamma Mia was actually filmed
Finding the right island wasn’t easy for the filmmakers at all. They reportedly scouted more than 21 Greek islands before finding the perfect place that matched their vision of the fictional island of Kalokairi. The main requirement was a lush, deep-green landscape that would contrast with the turquoise sea.
Mamma Mia! (2008): Skopelos, Skiathos and Pelion
In the end the choice fell on the Greek island of Skopelos in the Sporades archipelago, which to this day is considered one of the greenest islands in the whole Aegean Sea. Pine forests here reach right down to the water’s edge, which gave the film exactly the right romantic atmosphere. This is where most of the iconic scenes take place, including the famous wedding.
A smaller part of the shoot took place on the neighbouring island of Skiathos, which served mainly thanks to its airport and picturesque old harbour. What most people don’t realise is that the production also filmed on the Greek mainland. Some of the song-and-dance scenes were created in the small coastal village of Damouchari on the Pelion peninsula, a spot the average movie-chasing tourist often never even reaches.
Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again (2018): the Croatian island of Vis
When planning for the sequel began ten years later, the production decided to leave Greece entirely. There were several reasons: better filming conditions, cheaper production, and reportedly a great local crew too. So the new Kalokairi sprang up on the Croatian island of Vis, which lies in Dalmatia fairly far from the mainland.
For decades this island was closed off as a Yugoslav military base, and thanks to that it escaped massive tourist development. It has kept an enormous amount of authenticity, picturesque coves and the calm the filmmakers needed. It’s a gorgeous place, but be prepared: you really won’t find the Greek architecture with blue roofs here.
8 film locations you’ll see with your own eyes
Let’s take a look together at the specific spots where the actors sang and danced. The filmmakers were pretty good at playing tricks with the camera, so it’s worth knowing in advance what really awaits you on the ground.
1. The Agios Ioannis Kastri chapel on Skopelos
This is an absolute classic and the most iconic spot in the entire first film. A lonely rock rising out of the sea, with a little white chapel perched on top, sits a short drive from the village of Glossa in the north of Skopelos. This is where the famous film wedding took place and where Meryl Streep ran up the steps to the sound of The Winner Takes It All.
Be ready: the climb is fairly demanding, with a steep staircase carved straight into the rock, and in the midday summer sun it really takes it out of you. How many steps are there exactly? Sources put it somewhere between 106 and 198, so feel free to count them yourself. There’s very little shade up here, which is why I recommend setting off early in the morning.
I do have to warn you about one crucial thing that’s completely different in reality than in the film. The interior of the chapel is actually tiny, bare and can barely fit a handful of people. That richly decorated interior you know from the screen was built in a studio in England. Also keep in mind that it’s a working sacred site, so you should keep your shoulders covered and stay quiet.
💡 Tip: You can’t drive all the way to the rock; you have to walk the last stretch on foot. Stop at a nearby taverna along the way for an iced frappé – you’ll desperately need it after the climb. If you’d rather not drive, boat trips to the chapel are easy to book through GetYourGuide.
2. Kastani beach on Skopelos
If you remember the scene where Tanya sings Does Your Mother Know, or the passionate declaration between Sophie and Sky in Lay All Your Love on Me, then you know Kastani beach. It’s one of the most beautiful on all of Skopelos, with white pebbles, crystal-clear turquoise water, and trees that provide pleasant shade almost right down to the water.
Compared to the film, though, one big surprise awaits you here. In reality the beach is much smaller and tighter than it looks wide and sprawling on screen. The wooden jetty and beach bar that play an important role in the film were just sets, and the production dismantled them once filming wrapped.
Today you’ll find a modern beach bar with sunbeds and umbrellas, but it looks completely different. In high season it gets really busy here, and ABBA hits often blast from the speakers. The water gets deep fairly quickly, so it’s not ideal for very young children.
💡 Tip: The car park by the beach fills up very fast in July and August. Come either right at 9 a.m. or late in the afternoon, when most day-trippers are heading back to their hotels.
3. Glysteri beach and Donna’s villa on Skopelos
Glysteri bay lies about 5 kilometres north of the main town, Skopelos Town. In the film this spot served as the main setting for Donna’s villa, which had a gorgeous view over the sea. Several scenes were also shot on the cliffs here, where the actors jumped into the water, and it appears in the film’s opening passages.
Unfortunately I have to disappoint you a little about the accommodation itself. Donna’s villa doesn’t actually exist – it was just an ingeniously built set on the slope above the beach. Today there isn’t a trace of it left, so definitely don’t go looking for it on the cliffs.
Glysteri beach itself, though, is worth a visit anyway. It’s pebbly, sheltered from strong winds, and the water has an incredibly rich colour. In recent years a fairly upscale beach club has sprung up here, so you can rent comfortable sunbeds and enjoy a great lunch.
💡 Tip: The road to Glysteri winds through old olive groves, which is an experience in itself. Watch out for oncoming cars, though – in places the road is quite narrow.
4. Skopelos Town (Chora)
The island’s main town, also known as Chora, is an amphitheatre-like maze of white houses rising above the harbour. It doesn’t appear in the film as often as the beaches, but some of the alleyway scenes and the wedding procession were shot here.
The town is an ideal base for accommodation and evening strolls. You’ll find dozens of little churches, narrow cobbled lanes with balconies full of flowers, and plenty of traditional tavernas. The film atmosphere is everywhere here, especially when the sun sets and the harbour lights up.
In reality you won’t find the wild dance parties in the squares that the film’s extras put on – the town has a calmer, very romantic atmosphere. For souvenirs it’s one of the best spots on the island: local olive oil, hand-painted ceramics, and lots of things you never planned to buy but end up taking home.
💡 Tip: Hike up to the remains of the old Venetian fortress (Kastro). The view over the whole town and bay is absolutely fantastic, an ideal spot for evening photos.
5. Agnontas harbour on Skopelos
Agnontas is a small, incredibly calm cove on the island’s west coast. It appears in the film during the Money, Money, Money scene, as well as when the characters set off on a boat trip. It’s one of the island’s three official harbours, alongside Skopelos Town and the village of Glossa.
This spot is surrounded by dense pine forest that really does grow right down to the beach. It’s an ideal stop if you’re after peace and quiet and an escape from the crowds, because far fewer film enthusiasts head here than to Kastani or the chapel.
💡 Tip: Agnontas is a wonderful spot for watching the sunset. If you come in the evening, book a table at the tavernas in advance – they’re often full.
6. The island of Skiathos and its old harbour
Skiathos plays more of a supporting role in the first film, but it has enormous significance for fans. It was around the old harbour and the bell tower of the church of Agios Nikolaos that the scene was shot where all three “potential fathers” meet for the first time and try to catch a boat to Kalokairi.
Unlike in the film, no old fishing boat sails from here to Skopelos, but there are huge modern ferries. The area around the bell tower with its view of the harbour, however, is exactly the same as on screen, and you can take the very same photo Pierce Brosnan and Colin Firth did.
Skiathos is the only island in the area with an international airport, so most tourists heading to Skopelos pass through here anyway. Definitely stay at least a day – the historic centre is charming, and Koukounaries beach is one of the loveliest in the whole Aegean.
💡 Tip: You’ll find the clock tower and the church of Agios Nikolaos after a short hike up from the harbour. The path is well signposted, and the view from the top over the anchored boats really is worth a little effort.
7. Damouchari on the Pelion peninsula
This is probably the best-kept secret of the whole film. The little harbour in the village of Damouchari isn’t on the islands at all – it lies on the eastern coast of the mainland Pelion peninsula, roughly 40 kilometres from the Sporades.
This is where the scene was shot in which Donna, in her famous dungarees, welcomes her friends Rosie and Tanya on the jetty. A big part of the mass Dancing Queen dance number was also filmed here, as a procession of women weaves through the narrow lanes and leaps into the sea.
Most tourists have no idea about this location. Which is a huge shame, because Pelion is a gorgeous piece of Greece, full of greenery, waterfalls and traditional stone villages. Compared to the islands, it’s also far less crowded, even in the middle of summer.
💡 Tip: If you’re travelling to mainland Greece by car or bus, make a detour to Pelion. The village is really small, but incredibly charming, and radiates absolute calm.
8. The island of Vis and the village of Komiža (Croatia)
And now we move on to the second film. The Croatian island of Vis was transformed into the new Kalokairi in Here We Go Again. Most of the action centred around Barjoška bay in the west of the island, where the crew even had to build a new access road.
Probably the best-known real location on the island is the village of Komiža. In the town of Vis, the filmmakers built extensive market sets on the square, which gave the place exactly the right Mediterranean bustle.
Here too I have to warn you about the movie magic. The grand Bella Donna hotel on the cliff, which the characters ceremonially open in the second film, is entirely a digital creation. In the real landscape of Vis there’s nothing on that spot at all, let alone a luxury resort with a huge terrace.
💡 Tip: Visit the famous Stiniva beach. It doesn’t appear directly in the film, but the actors used to come here to relax. It’s hidden between high cliffs and is one of the most beautiful spots in all of Croatia.
Where to eat
Greek and Croatian cuisine are reason enough on their own to head to these places. Food plays a huge role in both cultures, and around the film locations you’ll find plenty of spots where you can feast beautifully.
Prices vary depending on how close to a film location you’re sitting. A taverna two streets back from the beach tends to be a third cheaper than one with a view of the chapel.
The best film-worthy tavernas
If you head to Agnontas harbour on Skopelos, there are several excellent tavernas right by the water where you can feast guilt-free, whether you go for saganaki, courgette fritters, or fava purée made from yellow split peas, which is more delicate than you’d expect. The local speciality is fresh fish and seafood that the fishermen unload straight off their boats.
On Vis, the film taverna is easy to find: it’s Jastožera in Komiža (I write more about it under day seven of the itinerary). For a meat-free option I recommend the grilled vegetables, Croatian blitva (Swiss chard) with potato, or the homemade pasta. Komiža has always been a fishing village, which you can spot at a glance on the menus.
Itinerary: 8 days following in the footsteps of Mamma Mia
Planning a trip so that you see locations from both films is genuinely quite a puzzle, because there’s no direct ferry connection between the Greek islands and Croatian Dalmatia. But if you have the time, the budget for flights, and the appetite for the ultimate film adventure, I’ve put together an action-packed eight-day plan that combines the best of both countries. You can of course also split it into two separate holidays.
Day 1: Arrival on Skiathos and your first film steps
Your trip will most likely begin at the airport on Skiathos. Planes land so low over the beach here that it’s an experience in itself. In the afternoon, make time for the old harbour. Head to the bell tower of Agios Nikolaos, stand exactly where the film dads stood, and enjoy that beautiful view.
In the evening, settle into one of the many tavernas right by the water. I recommend trying a traditional Greek salad with a proper chunk of feta, plus some excellent tzatziki with fresh pita bread. The town stays alive late into the night, so you can lose yourself in the narrow lanes full of ceramics shops. You could stay, for example, in a hotel near the harbour so you’re close to the boat in the morning.
Day 2: Crossing to Skopelos and exploring Chora
Right after breakfast, hop on the morning ferry towards Skopelos. The fast boat takes about an hour, while a larger ferry takes around an hour and a half. You’ll arrive in the main town, Skopelos Town, which will instantly charm you with its white houses and blue shutters. Stop by the rental office and pick up the car you’ve booked.
Spend the afternoon exploring the town. Walk the streets the wedding procession passed through, and hike up to the castle ruins. For dinner, definitely order the baked-vegetable briam or the fantastic spinach pie, spanakopita. It’s a wonderful dish full of herbs that fills you up after a long day of walking.
Day 3: The hike to the chapel and the north of the island
This will be a demanding but unforgettable day. Set off early in the morning to the north of the island, towards the village of Glossa, while it’s not yet too hot. The climb up the iconic rock to the Agios Ioannis Kastri chapel awaits you. The path from the car park takes about 20 minutes, and the views from the steps are truly priceless.
After the descent you can reward yourself with a swim at the small pebble beach right below the rock. In the afternoon, move on to the village of Glossa itself, which is built high on the hillside and offers beautiful views. Stop at the local bakery for sweet baklava and a strong Greek coffee.
Day 4: A day on Kastani beach and the west coast
Today will be relaxed and devoted to swimming. Pack your towels and head to Kastani beach. Don’t forget to play Lay All Your Love on Me in your headphones. The water here is beautifully clean and ideal for snorkelling, just bear in mind you can no longer lean against that film jetty.
When you tire of Kastani, you can drive just a short way over to the neighbouring Milia beach. It’s much more sprawling, offers a view of the little islet of Dassia, and is quieter. You can have lunch at the local beach bar, which makes great salads and pasta with fresh tomato sauce.
Day 5: Glysteri, Agnontas and the return to the mainland
In the morning, head out to check out the northeast coast. Make for the coves near Glysteri beach, where you won’t find Donna’s villa but can enjoy a swim in the spots where the actors jumped off the cliffs. In the afternoon, move on to Agnontas harbour for a late lunch.
The local tavernas here have tables just centimetres from the water, so you feel as if you’re sitting on the deck of a boat. Besides the fish the locals order, they make excellent stuffed vine leaves, dolmadakia, or giant beans, gigantes, in tomato sauce. Towards evening, board the ferry heading to the mainland port of Volos. The crossing takes about three hours.
Day 6: The secrets of Pelion and the move to Croatia
From Volos it’s just a short hop to the picturesque Pelion peninsula. In the morning, head along the winding roads to the little village of Damouchari. Walk along the stone jetty where Donna welcomed her friends, and soak up the incredibly peaceful atmosphere of this tucked-away corner of the mainland.
The afternoon holds the logistically toughest part. You need to move from Greece to Croatian Split. The best option is to drive to nearby Thessaloniki or to Athens and fly to Croatia from there (or take a connecting flight). By evening you can already be soaking up the atmosphere on Split’s gorgeous Riva promenade.
Day 7: Sailing to Vis and film-set Komiža
Ferries to the distant island of Vis depart from Split. The crossing takes just under two and a half hours and is a great chance to relax. As soon as you arrive in the town of Vis, rent a scooter so you’re flexible around the island. The island is small but very hilly, so it’s great to explore on a bike.
Cross to the western side of the island to the picturesque fishing village of Komiža. Here visit the famous Jastožera restaurant, which served as a taverna in the film. Komiža is known as a fishing village where the locals prepare fresh fish, but you’ll also easily get great grilled vegetables or traditional Croatian blitva (Swiss chard with potato).
Day 8: Barjoška bay and farewell to Kalokairi
Spend your final day discovering the spots from the second film. Head to Barjoška bay, where most of the beach scenes were shot. You can get there either by scooter along bumpy tracks, or rent a small boat at the harbour, which is a far more comfortable option.
In the afternoon, return to the town of Vis and walk around the market square and the narrow lanes where a young Donna rode her bike in the film. In the evening, board the ferry back to Split, and your epic journey following in the footsteps of Mamma Mia comes to an end.
How to get there and when to go
The logistics of the whole trip take a bit of planning, but it’s nothing you can’t handle with a little patience. The key to success is booking your flights and ferries early, especially if you plan to travel during the peak summer holidays.
Getting to Greece (Skopelos and Skiathos)
The easiest way to reach the Greek locations is to book a flight to Skiathos airport (JSI). Airlines like Ryanair, easyJet and Lufthansa serve the wider region, so you can find seasonal connections from major European hubs. From the airport you have to travel about 2 kilometres to the harbour and board a ferry. You can also check the official site for Skiathos airport. Boats run by companies like Seajets or Hellenic Seaways operate 5–6 times a day in the summer season. A ferry ticket costs roughly €15 to €35 per person, depending on the type of boat.
The second option is to fly to Athens or Thessaloniki, take a bus to the mainland ports (Volos, Agios Konstantinos, or Mantoudi on the island of Evia), and take a ferry from there. The timetables for Greek mainland buses will come in handy. Watch out for the fact that Skopelos has three different harbours (Skopelos Town, Glossa and Agnontas). Always check exactly where your ferry is heading, so you don’t get a surprise far from your hotel. You can find timetables and easily book, for example, through the reliable Ferryhopper portal.
Getting to Croatia (Vis)
You can only reach the island of Vis by boat. The starting point is the port of Split, which is easy to reach by air or by car. Plenty of inspiration is also available on the Vis tourist board website. The ferries and catamarans are run by the state company Jadrolinija and the crossing takes over two hours. In summer the boats get very full, so it’s best to buy your car tickets well in advance on the Jadrolinija website.
When is the best time to go
If you have a choice, definitely avoid July and August. During this period all the locations are packed with tourists, temperatures climb well above 30 degrees, and accommodation prices are at their peak. The climb up to the chapel at midday in August is more of a punishment than a pleasure.
The ideal compromise is late May through June, and then the first half of September. The sea is beautifully warm in both windows, the fan crowds are more bearable, and nature is still full of colour. Off-season (from November to April) travel gets much more complicated – plenty of hotels and tavernas close, and ferry frequency drops significantly.
Where to stay
Where you stay hugely affects how comfortably you get around the island. Prices per night for two in season range roughly from €80 to €200 (depending on location and level of luxury). You’ll find most accommodation on Booking.com. Let’s look at some specific great places with excellent ratings.
Where to stay on the island of Skopelos (town and surroundings):
- Skopelos Village Hotel: This is an absolute legend. Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan and other stars stayed here during filming. It has a gorgeous pool, great breakfasts, and you can walk to the town centre in 10 minutes.
- Rigas Hotel Skopelos: A great-value hotel right in Skopelos Town. In reviews, guests praise the beautiful garden full of lemon trees where breakfast is served, and the very helpful staff.
- Adrina Beach Hotel: If you want to stay by the beach and closer to the film locations on the west coast, this is a great choice. The hotel has a private beach and a stunning sea view straight from the rooms.
Where to stay in the north of Skopelos (the village of Glossa):
- Natura Luxury Boutique Hotel: A truly beautiful, peaceful stay near the village of Glossa, from where the famous chapel is close by. The hotel has a stunning panoramic view and offers great modern rooms with a focus on cleanliness.
Where to stay on Skiathos:
- Bourtzi Hotel: A wonderful design hotel right in the centre of Skiathos, a short walk from the harbour. It’s a strategic spot if you arrive by ferry. It offers a lovely courtyard pool and a fantastic buffet breakfast.
- La Piscine Art Hotel: This adults-only hotel offers total peace and quiet. Guests rave about the on-site luxury restaurant and the huge pool surrounded by greenery.
Where to stay on the island of Vis:
- Hotel San Giorgio: A beautiful family-run boutique hotel right in the lanes of the town of Vis. It has an incredibly friendly atmosphere, a lovely courtyard, and according to reviews they make the best breakfasts on the whole island.
- Hotel Biševo: Located in the fishing village of Komiža, right by the beach. It’s a simpler stay, but it offers a wonderful sea view and a great base for exploring the western side of the island.
Quick cheat sheet: which scene, where
So you don’t get lost in the film madness, I’ve put together a clear table of the most important scenes and their real locations. Feel free to snap a photo of it on your phone, so you know exactly what to look for at each spot.
| Scene or song | Film | Real location | Access |
|---|---|---|---|
| The wedding and The Winner Takes It All | Mamma Mia! (1) | Agios Ioannis Kastri chapel, Skopelos | By car + about 200 steps on foot |
| Lay All Your Love on Me (Sophie and Sky) | Mamma Mia! (1) | Kastani beach, Skopelos | Right by the car park, busy in season |
| Does Your Mother Know (Tanya) | Mamma Mia! (1) | Kastani beach, Skopelos | Right by the car park |
| The fathers meet and miss the boat | Mamma Mia! (1) | Old harbour and bell tower, Skiathos | Short hike from the town centre |
| Rosie and Tanya arrive (Dancing Queen) | Mamma Mia! (1) | Damouchari harbour, Pelion | Mainland, 40 km by car from Volos |
| Money, Money, Money | Mamma Mia! (1) | Agnontas harbour, Skopelos | Easy to reach by car |
| Cliff jumping and villa exteriors | Mamma Mia! (1) | Glysteri bay and beach, Skopelos | By car along a winding road |
| Market square and main bustle | Here We Go Again (2) | Town of Vis, Croatia | Town centre, accessible on foot |
| Greek taverna (dialogue) | Here We Go Again (2) | Jastožera restaurant, Komiža, Vis | Centre of Komiža |
| Beach scenes from the second film | Here We Go Again (2) | Barjoška bay, island of Vis | Trickier to reach, ideally by boat |
Where to next
If film travel has got you hooked, definitely don’t miss our detailed guides to the individual islands. They’re packed with plenty of extra tips on what to do, even when you’re not chasing filmmakers’ footsteps.
Definitely check out the article Skopelos, the Mamma Mia island, where I go into detail on all the coves and hidden beaches. If you’re planning to stay on the neighbouring island too, our guide to a Skiathos holiday will come in handy. And if you prefer the Dalmatian coast, read about everything Vis, Croatia has to offer.
For those of you who’d like to combine the film locations with other spots, we’ve also got a big overview of where to go on holiday in Greece or a similar article on where to go on holiday in Croatia. And if you’re interested in the phenomenon of film travel in general, I recommend our article on set-jetting and the White Lotus effect.
You’ll find more film journeys in our itinerary around the Game of Thrones locations or in our overview of hotels from films and series.
Frequently asked questions
Here I’ve summed up the most common questions you might have about the film locations. You’ll find everything essential so you’re not caught off guard on the spot.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
🚗 Car rental on the roadVerified rental cars in GreeceSearch with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
Compare car prices in Greece →Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
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