If you’re looking for an escape from Montenegro’s overcrowded coast, Lake Skadar is an absolute oasis of calm that you really shouldn’t miss. While most tourists are packed onto the beaches of Budva, you can glide along in a little boat through endless fields of white water lilies, sipping a glass of fantastic local wine.
It’s the largest lake in the whole Balkans, shared by Montenegro and neighbouring Albania, and its natural riches are breathtaking. Locals often say this is where the true green heart of their country beats, a place where time flows much more slowly and instead of thumping nightclubs you’ll hear nothing but birdsong.
In this article I’m bringing you 10 tips on what to see and do at Lake Skadar so you can get the most out of your visit to the national park. I’ll show you how to avoid the touts pushing boat trips, where to taste the best cheese with honey and when you have the best chance of spotting the rare Dalmatian pelicans.
TL;DR
- Entry to the national park costs €5 per day and is paid separately, even if you’re taking a boat trip.
- Virpazar is the main gateway, reachable from Podgorica by train for just €1.20 in half an hour.
- Watch out for the touts in Virpazar who’ll push you into overpriced boat trips — it’s better to book everything in advance online.
- The best view of the river’s meanders is from the Pavlova Strana viewpoint, ideally early in the morning.
- Dalmatian pelicans can be seen on the lake all year round, but your best chance is in spring when they’re nesting.
- Taste the Vranac wine in the historic stone village of Godinje, where local wineries serve it with superb homemade cheese.
- The water lily fields are in full bloom from May to July; in summer, head out onto the lake exclusively in the morning to avoid the brutal heat.
When to visit Lake Skadar
If you want to experience the lake at its most beautiful, spring is the ideal time to visit — specifically April through June. Temperatures hover in a pleasant range of 20 to 26 degrees, the water level is nice and high, and most importantly, the enormous water lily fields start to bloom, looking like something out of the Amazon delta.
In the summer months of July and August, brace yourself for serious heat, with the thermometer regularly hitting 38 degrees. The water level drops noticeably and being out on a boat during the day becomes unbearable, so if you come during the school holidays, plan all your trips for early morning, before nine o’clock.
September and October, on the other hand, are fantastic for food lovers, because temperatures drop to a bearable 25 degrees and the grape harvest is in full swing. The autumn bird migration also draws huge numbers of feathered visitors, making it — along with spring — the best time for wildlife watching without the crowds.
Where to stay at Lake Skadar
💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We love finding places to stay on Booking.com, which usually has the best cancellation terms. Tickets, tours and activities are worth comparing and buying through GetYourGuide.
Although plenty of people only nip over from the coast for a quick visit, I’d really recommend staying at least one or two nights. That way you get the chance to head out on the water early in the morning, when the surface is mirror-still and the pelicans are at their most active. Rooms sell out fast, so don’t leave your Booking reservation until the last minute.
The most strategic location is the little town of Virpazar, home to the excellent Hotel De’Andros, rated the best in the area. It offers modern rooms, a lovely rooftop pool overlooking the lake and its own car park, which is an absolute lifesaver in those narrow streets.
If you’re after something more authentic and peaceful, try the family-run Guesthouse Skadar Lake – Raičević, just a short way from Virpazar. The owners are incredibly friendly, they have a wonderful garden with mountain views, and they’ll happily let you sample their own homemade wine and cheese.
A very popular and quiet alternative is to stay right in the historic village of Rijeka Crnojevića, for example in the beautifully renovated Guest House Perjanik. You’ll be just steps from the iconic old bridge and only a five-minute drive from the famous Pavlova Strana viewpoint.
10 tips on what to see and do at Lake Skadar
Let’s take a look together at the best the national park has to offer. You’ll discover that Lake Skadar is far from being just about a boat ride — it hides gorgeous stone villages, ancient monasteries on tiny islands and first-class wineries to delight any lover of good food and drink.
1. Virpazar and the lake Skadar boat trips
The tiny fishing town of Virpazar is the main gateway into the national park, and getting there is incredibly easy by train from Podgorica. The journey takes just half an hour and a ticket costs a ridiculous €1.20, with the train stopping only a few minutes’ walk from the harbour jetty.
Right at the entrance to town, though, you need to be very wary of the aggressive touts who’ll try to manoeuvre you into overpriced cruises. They often promise free parking, only to then pile on the pressure to buy a ticket for their boat — which can put a damper on your mood right at the start of the trip. 😅
💡 Tip: The best defence is to book your boat trip in advance online, for example on GetYourGuide or with established companies like Kingfisher. A classic two-hour group trip costs around €15 to €25, and you always have to add €5 for entry to the national park, which is paid separately.
2. Pavlova Strana viewpoint
You’ve almost certainly seen this spot in photos, because it’s the most famous scene in all of Montenegro. Here the river carves a perfect horseshoe-shaped green meander, and the view from above of the turquoise water hemmed in by steep hills is simply magical.
You can reach the viewpoint by car in about half an hour from Virpazar or Cetinje, but be prepared for a very narrow, winding road where two cars can barely pass each other. Right at the top by the road there’s a small car park and a restaurant, where you can soak up this spectacular view with a coffee in hand.
If you want to capture the best photos, definitely come first thing in the morning, between seven and nine. The light at that time is beautifully soft and reflects off the water’s surface, whereas at midday the contrast tends to be too harsh and the colours wash out a little.
3. The town of Rijeka Crnojevića
When you descend from the Pavlova Strana viewpoint down to the water, you’ll discover the historic stone town of Rijeka Crnojevića. It was once an important seat of rulers, but today it greets you with an incredibly calm, lazy atmosphere, where time seems to have stopped a hundred years ago.
The town’s greatest pride is its photogenic arched stone bridge from the Ottoman period, which connects the two banks of the slow-flowing green river. You can stroll across it, take some lovely photos, and then drop into one of the local taverns right on the waterfront.
The traditional konobas here serve plenty of the local speciality, a freshwater carp known as krap. For us vegetarians, though, it’s far more interesting to taste the fresh homemade cheese and the excellent priganice — fried balls of dough generously drizzled with local honey, which go perfectly with a local coffee. ☺️
4. Spotting Dalmatian pelicans
Lake Skadar is one of the last refuges of the Dalmatian pelican in all of Europe, and seeing this majestic bird in the wild is an enormous thrill. Around 280 bird species live on the lake year-round, so every birdwatching enthusiast will be in their element.
Although the pelicans don’t migrate and are here all the time, your best chance of spotting them is in April and May, when they’re nesting and more active. During the hot summer they hide in the reeds, so you’ll have to look for them early in the morning before the sun starts beating down at full strength.
Don’t expect miracles, though, and don’t count on the pelicans landing right on your boat. Always choose licensed guides who know where the birds are currently hanging out and who’ll only approach them at a safe distance, so as not to disturb them in their natural habitat.
5. Cruising through the water lily fields
One of the most beautiful experiences on the lake is drifting through endless carpets of aquatic plants, which sometimes feel more like an impenetrable jungle than a European body of water. It’s precisely because of these that Lake Skadar is sometimes nicknamed the Amazon delta of the Balkans.
The green leaves cover the surface completely, and from May to August thousands of white and yellow flowers burst out of them — a sight you won’t easily forget. The flowers open with the morning sun and close again around five in the afternoon, so an evening cruise won’t be quite as colourful.
Only traditional wooden boats called čun, with a very shallow draught, can reach the densest fields, slipping through the narrow channels. These boats also have less noisy engines, so you can enjoy the cruise in complete silence and harmony with nature.
6. Island monasteries
On longer boat trips you’re sure to come across little islands hiding ancient Orthodox monasteries from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. They feel incredibly isolated and breathe a mysterious atmosphere of long-gone times.
A very popular stop is the island of Beška, home to two gorgeous medieval churches. If you pay for a three- or four-hour cruise, you’ll probably moor at Kom Monastery, which is surrounded by water and offers fantastic views across the countryside.
The monasteries are still inhabited by monks who tend the gardens and often sell tourists fantastic homemade honey right on the jetty, full of nectar from the surrounding flowers and herbs. It’s a great souvenir that also supports these remote communities.
7. The Grmožur and Lesendro fortresses
The lake’s history is full of battles and defensive structures, the most fascinating of which is undoubtedly the ruined Grmožur. This former Ottoman fortress sits on a small rocky island and, thanks to its dark past, has earned the nickname the Montenegrin Alcatraz, because it later served as a prison from which there was no escape.
From Virpazar you can reach it by boat in a few dozen minutes and explore the ruins for free. The climb to the top of the fortress takes only a moment and rewards you with a panoramic view over the entire southern arm of the lake, with the majestic Albanian mountains in the background.
Another famous ruin is the Lesendro fortress, which you’ll see right from the train or car window as you arrive along the causeway from Podgorica. It originally stood on an island, but after the road and railway were built it became part of the mainland, and today you can easily reach it even by kayak.
8. The Crmnica wine region and the village of Godinje
The landscape west of the lake is called Crmnica, and it’s the historic heart of Montenegrin winemaking, where the famous indigenous Vranac variety is grown above all. You have to taste this deep red, full-bodied wine, even if you normally consider yourself more of a beer drinker. 😁
The absolute jewel of the region is the ancient village of Godinje, which is over a thousand years old and where all the stone houses have wine cellars built right into their foundations. It lies about eight kilometres from Virpazar, and the road to it winds along a very narrow, twisty lane — but the experience is well worth a little stress behind the wheel.
I’d definitely recommend booking a spot at the family-run Garnet winery, where the thirteenth generation of owners will take care of you. They’ll prepare a generous tasting of four wines along with an unbelievably abundant platter of local cheeses, homemade bread and olives — for us vegetarians, it’s quite literally gastronomic heaven.
9. Swimming at Murići beach
While everyone else heads for the sea, you can take a dip in the lake’s fresh, beautifully clear water. The best-known swimming spot is Murići beach, which lies about an hour’s drive from Virpazar towards the Albanian border.
The beach is a mix of pebbles and sand, the water here is incredibly warm in summer and the view of the mountains on the opposite shore is simply breathtaking. You can rent sun loungers and umbrellas, and the usual national park entry fee applies here, which you may already have paid for the boats.
I do have to warn you about the journey, though, because the road down to the beach is very narrow, full of blind bends and hairpin turns, so it’s definitely not suitable for nervous drivers. In the high summer season the beach also gets pretty crowded with locals, so it’s best to arrive in the morning while you can still park easily.
10. Hidden gems and exploring by kayak
If you want to avoid the group boat trips and you love an active break, rent a kayak in Virpazar and head out on the water on your own. For a whole day you’ll pay around thirty to fifty euros, and you’ll gain absolute freedom of movement.
The brilliant thing about a kayak is that it lets you reach even the narrowest water lily channels, where motorboats aren’t allowed, and you won’t scare off the birds with engine noise. It’s the very best way to soak up the true atmosphere of the national park in complete silence.
Also worth exploring is the little village of Vranjina, sometimes nicknamed the Montenegrin Venice, because it’s surrounded by water on three sides. Most tourists just drive past it without a second glance along the main road, but inside you’ll find authentic local life and lovely views of the Lesendro fortress.
Where to go next from Lake Skadar
Once you’ve thoroughly explored the national park and the water lily fields, definitely carry on discovering more corners of this gorgeous Balkan country. Lake Skadar is a great base both for heading south to the sea and for trips into the mountains up north.
If you’re wondering exactly where to head next, which towns are worth visiting and where to find the most beautiful beaches or, on the contrary, dramatic mountain peaks, I’ve put together a comprehensive guide for you. Read the article Holiday in Montenegro: 15 tips for the coast and the mountains, where you’ll find everything you need for the rest of your road trip.
Frequently asked questions
How to get to Lake Skadar without a car?
The easiest and by far the cheapest way is by train from Podgorica directly to Virpazar station. The journey takes just 31 minutes and the ticket costs only €1.20, with the train stopping a stone’s throw from the harbour pier. Buses also run here, but the train is much more comfortable.
Is a boat trip on the lake necessary?
Definitely yes. From a car or train you’ll see only a tiny fraction of the national park’s beauty. You can reach the monasteries, water lily fields and pelicans exclusively by water, so a boat trip is an absolutely essential experience, without which there’s no point in visiting the lake.
When do water lilies bloom on Lake Skadar?
Beautiful white water lilies begin to bloom in May and last on the surface until approximately September, with the greatest profusion of flowers visible in June and July. Remember though, that the flowers only open in the morning and close again in the afternoon.
Are there beaches on Lake Skadar?
Yes, you’ll find freshwater beaches here, with the most famous and popular being the pebble beach Murići. The water is beautifully warm and clean in summer, but the road to the beach leads along a challenging and narrow road full of sharp switchbacks.
How to defend yourself against aggressive boat tour sellers in Virpazar?
The best tactic is to book the trip in advance online with companies like Kingfisher or through the GetYourGuide portal. On-site, you can then politely tell the pushy vendors that you already have a paid reservation and walk calmly to the harbor.
Are Lake Skadar and the coast easy to combine?
Perfektně. From coastal towns like Budva or Kotor you’ll reach the lake in about 45 to 60 minutes, so it’s an ideal destination for a day trip if you want a break from the salty sea and crowded beaches.
Where to buy Vranac wine directly from the source?
For the best wine you must head to the historic stone village of Godinje, which lies about eight kilometers from Virpazar. In the local family cellars, such as the Garnet winery, they’ll offer you fantastic cheeses and homemade honey for tasting.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
🚗 Car rental on the roadVerified rental cars in MontenegroSearch with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
Compare car prices in Montenegro →Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
