Bohemian Switzerland is a breathtaking kingdom of sandstone cliffs, deep forests and mysterious gorges in the very north of Czechia. When most people hear the name of this national park, one image springs to mind immediately: the iconic Pravčická Brána (Pravčická Gate). It’s a place with a truly unique atmosphere, well worth visiting at least once in a lifetime. We fell head over heels for the landscape here, and I’m convinced this sandstone realm will sweep you off your feet just the same.
I have to be honest with you right from the start, though: the park was hit by two wildfires — a major one near Hřensko in 2022 and a smaller one near Jetřichovice in the spring of 2026. That might sound a little alarming, but rest assured, most of the most beautiful spots are safely accessible and nature is recovering fast. Our photos of Pravčická Brána in this guide were taken when the forest was still green, before the fire, so you can see its beauty in full force.
In the lines that follow I’ll show you what to see in Bohemian Switzerland, how best to get here, and where to base yourself strategically. You’ll also learn which places to avoid at the height of summer and how to plan a weekend that lets you soak up as much peace among the rocks as possible.
TL;DR
- Pravčická Brána: The largest sandstone arch in Europe and the absolute symbol of the whole park — a must-see.
- Boat trip through the gorges: A romantic ride in little boats through the canyon of the River Kamenice, complete with the ferryman’s wonderfully witty commentary.
- Rock towns and viewpoints: The mysterious maze of the Tisá Walls and the stunning views from Mariina Skála near Jetřichovice.
- Getting around and parking: Driving in via the D8 motorway is ideal, but in high summer you really do need to reach the car parks early in the morning.
- Current restrictions: Most popular trails are operating normally; only the burnt area and the famous Gabriela Trail remain closed long-term.
- Cross into Saxony: You can easily pop over to neighbouring Germany by boat or train to see the famous Bastei stone bridge.
When to visit Bohemian Switzerland and for how many days
Planning a trip to this sandstone kingdom depends a lot on what you expect from the trip and how much the crowds of fellow tourists bother you. Every season has its own particular charm, but if I’m going to recommend something straight from the heart, come here in spring or autumn. In autumn the deep forests turn unbelievable shades of gold and red, and the morning mists rolling through the valleys create an utterly magical atmosphere you’ll fall in love with. Spring, meanwhile, is perfect for anyone who wants to see nature waking up and enjoy plenty of water in the streams and gorges.
In the summer months, bear in mind this is peak tourist season. If you come during the holidays, set your alarm as early as you can and reach the main attractions first thing, otherwise you’ll spend ages hunting for a parking space and squeezing through the crowds. One very important thing is the so-called fire warning system. The national park authority puts it in place during periods of severe drought, when there’s a heightened risk of forest fires. In such cases there’s often a night-time ban on entering the forest and a strict ban on leaving the marked trails. So always check the current situation on the official website before you set off.
So how many days should you set aside? For a quick taste of the biggest highlights, one really packed day will do. You can do the classic loop from Hřensko up to Pravčická Brána, cross over to Mezní Louka and return via the Wild Gorge. But if you want to really get to know the park, enjoy the quieter eastern section around Jetřichovice and pop over to neighbouring Germany too, set aside a long weekend or even three full days.
How to get to Bohemian Switzerland from Prague
Getting to the national park is fairly straightforward, and you have several options depending on whether you prefer the comfort of your own car or like to travel by public transport. The central hub for most trips is the picturesque little town of Hřensko, which sits right on the border with Saxony and forms the gateway to the whole region. Most international visitors fly into Prague first — there are direct flights from London, Manchester and several other UK airports — and then continue north.
If you’re driving from Prague, you’re looking at a journey of roughly 135 kilometres. You’ll cover most of the route comfortably on the D8 motorway towards Ústí nad Labem and Děčín. (A Czech motorway vignette is required — you can buy the e-vignette online before you set off.) From Děčín you continue along the beautiful valley of the River Elbe right into Hřensko, which takes about an hour and a half of smooth driving in total. You can then leave the car at one of the park-and-ride car parks, though in season you really need to be an early bird, as the spaces fill up at an incredible rate and by around ten in the morning they’re often full.
Travellers without a car can get here perfectly easily and comfortably. Regular, fast trains run from Prague to Děčín — the journey takes about an hour and a half and the trains are usually clean and spacious. Right in front of Děčín railway station you then hop on the main tourist bus, number 434. It takes you not only to Hřensko but continues on via Mezní Louka all the way to Jetřichovice. In the main summer season you can also spice up the journey with a romantic boat ride along the Elbe from Děčín to Hřensko. Another interesting option is the border ferry connecting Hřensko with the Saxon village of Schöna on the opposite bank, which gives you easy access to the German rail network.
Entry to the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, the fires and the current situation
Good news for your wallet: entry to the Bohemian Switzerland National Park itself is completely free. Only specific attractions charge admission, such as the Pravčická Brána complex, the boat trips through the gorges of the River Kamenice, and the rock maze at Tisá. The rest of the beautiful scenery, the viewpoints and the forest paths you can admire without paying a penny, free to roam as you please.
It’s important to be honest about the fact that the park has been through a really tough ordeal in recent years. In July 2022 it was hit by the largest forest fire in the modern history of the Czech Republic, which burned through more than a thousand hectares of forest near Hřensko. As if that weren’t enough, in May 2026 another, much smaller fire broke out in the eastern part near Jetřichovice and Rynartice. These events naturally transformed the landscape, but nature has an incredible ability to regenerate. Already, new trees are turning green among the charred trunks, ferns are growing and the forest is filling with life.
Today only the specific burnt area and places where dry trees risk falling remain closed. Most popular trails and attractions operate completely without restrictions. The biggest loss for visitors is the long-term closure of the famous Gabriela Trail, which used to link Pravčická Brána with Mezní Louka. You now reach the arch via the alternative Mlýnská route or the classic trail from Hřensko. Before every trip I recommend checking the national park’s official website, where you’ll always find up-to-date information on any closures and the status of the fire warning system.
Where to stay in Bohemian Switzerland
Choosing the right accommodation can make a nature trip immeasurably more pleasant and save you loads of time on your morning journeys to the sights. In the area you’ll find everything from more upmarket hotels with wellness facilities to cosy family guesthouses with a homely atmosphere. It mainly comes down to whether you want to stay right in the thick of the action or prefer the quieter edges of the national park, away from the main bustle.
The most practical choice for exploring the best-known spots is undoubtedly Hotel Mezní Louka. It sits in an absolutely strategic location, just a few steps from the trail to Pravčická Brána and to the gorges. As well as a great position, it offers its own restaurant, a sauna for unwinding in the evening after demanding hikes, and — crucially — the huge advantage of on-site parking, which is worth its weight in gold in this area.
If you have a soft spot for a bit of history and would love to relax in a wellness centre after a day on your feet, take a look at Hotel Praha. You’ll find it right in the heart of Hřensko in a beautiful historic building, and it makes an ideal base for trips across the border into Saxony. Another great option in Hřensko is the cosy and very friendly Pension Klepáč, which sits right by the path leading towards Pravčická Brána and has a lovely atmosphere.
For those of you seeking peace and quiet who want to explore the eastern part of the park around the viewpoints, a fantastic choice is Penzion Starý Mlýn in Jetřichovice. Guests rave about the honest home cooking and the complete tranquillity away from the biggest tourist crowds, which usually concentrate more around Hřensko.
What to see in Bohemian Switzerland
Let’s take a look together at a pick of the most beautiful places you definitely shouldn’t miss when you visit the national park. I’ve included the biggest crowd-pullers as well as a few quieter spots out in nature.
1. Pravčická Brána
This is the absolute symbol of the whole national park and a place you simply have to see with your own eyes. With a span of over twenty-six metres, Pravčická Brána is the largest sandstone rock arch in all of Europe. Lukáš and I visited the arch in person, dog in tow, and the sight of that majestic arch towering high above the forests completely blew us away — it’s a genuinely unforgettable experience. Tucked just below the arch is the picturesque little Falcon’s Nest (Sokolí Hnízdo) chateau with its wooden balconies, lending the whole place an unbelievably fairy-tale feel.
Admission to the complex costs an adult around 5 €, and it gets you onto several stunning viewpoints in the immediate surroundings, where you can photograph the arch from the very best angles. You haven’t been able to walk onto the rock arch itself since 1982 for safety reasons — the sandstone is very fragile and the crowds of tourists were slowly wearing it away. As I mentioned earlier, the popular Gabriela Trail to the arch has been closed since the big fire, so right now you climb up either from Hřensko or via the alternative Mlýnská route from Mezní Louka.
Detailed guide: Pravčická Brána
2. The gorges of the River Kamenice
The deep canyons of the River Kamenice are among the most romantic experiences that northern Bohemia has to offer. The river has carved deep into the massive sandstone cliffs, creating steep walls that reach up to fifty metres high in places. The biggest draw here is the boat trip, where the ferryman pushes you along the water with a long pole while telling funny stories about the local rock formations — with a little imagination you can spot various animals or fairy-tale characters in them.
At the moment the Wild Gorge (Divoká soutěska) is in operation for visitors, where you’ll pay around 3.50 € for a boat ride and enjoy a beautiful trip through the mysterious canyon. The neighbouring Edmund’s Gorge — sometimes called the Quiet Gorge — was sadly hit significantly by the fire, and clearing the aftermath is proving very difficult. Travellers still highly recommend the trip through the Wild Gorge, but please always check the current boat operating situation on the official website before you go, just to be safe.
Detailed guide: the gorges of the Kamenice
3. The Tisá Walls
If you love walking among the rocks and enjoy discovering narrow passages and mysterious nooks, the Tisá Walls are sure to win you over, by all accounts. This sandstone rock town lies on the edge of the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area near the pretty village of Tisá, and it’s made up of an incredible maze of towers, columns and ravines with fascinating shapes. Admission to the rock town costs around 4 €. The scenery here might look familiar — the winter scenes for the famous Hollywood film The Chronicles of Narnia were shot here.
It’s very important to know that, due to enormous tourist interest, the Tisá Walls have had a daily visitor limit since 2025, with tickets sold for a specific time slot. If you’re planning to come at the weekend or during the summer holidays, it’s recommended to buy your tickets online well in advance, so you’re not disappointed by a sold-out capacity once you arrive and don’t have to change your plans.
Detailed guide: the Tisá Walls
4. The Jetřichovice viewpoints
The eastern part of the national park around the village of Jetřichovice offers a somewhat calmer atmosphere than busy Hřensko, and it’s home to some of the most beautiful views over the landscape. The biggest stars here are Mariina Skála, with its iconic wooden gazebo right at the summit, and the nearby Vilemínina Stěna. The climbs up to these rocky viewpoints do take a bit of effort and you’ll work up a proper sweat on the steps, but the breathtaking panoramas of rolling forests and rocks are one hundred percent worth it.
Access to these viewpoints is completely free; you only pay for parking down in the village. In the spring of 2026 a smaller forest fire hit this particular area, but the viewpoints fortunately survived and remain safely accessible via the marked trails. It’s said to be one of the very best spots in the whole park for romantic sunset-watching.
Detailed guide: the Jetřichovice viewpoints
5. Hřensko
Hřensko is the main gateway to the national park and, at the same time, a fascinating place that holds one interesting Czech geographical record. It lies at the confluence of the Elbe and Kamenice rivers and, at an altitude of around 115 metres above sea level, it’s the lowest-lying village in the entire Czech Republic. Steep rock walls hem it in on both sides, which means it stays pleasantly cool here even in the height of summer.
The village is well known for its large Vietnamese market, which stretches along the road and which tourists view rather ambivalently — though it has become something of a historical fixture of the local colour by now. Hřensko serves as the main starting point for both Pravčická Brána and the boats in the gorges. You should be prepared, however, for the local car parks to be hopelessly full by mid-morning in high season. Nearby Mezní Louka makes a great alternative for parking.
6. The Dolský Mlýn
Deep in the forests between Jetřichovice and Kamenická Stráň lies a spot that looks straight out of a fairy tale. The Dolský Mlýn is the romantic ruin of an old water mill on the River Kamenice, now a protected cultural monument that draws plenty of photographers. Its magical atmosphere has enchanted Czech filmmakers too — scenes for the legendary fairy tale The Proud Princess and, later, the popular film Hell with the Princess were shot here.
You can’t drive to the mill — you have to make a pleasant walk through the forest to reach it, which only adds to its remote and mysterious charm. Entry is free year-round. Travellers recommend packing a good snack in your rucksack and enjoying a peaceful picnic here to the sound of the babbling river and rustling old trees.
7. Růžovský Vrch
At 619 metres above sea level, Růžovský Vrch is the highest peak in the whole national park, and thanks to its characteristic conical shape it has earned the lovely nickname “the Děčín Fuji”. It’s a mighty basalt hill of volcanic origin that rises majestically out of the surrounding sandstone landscape and forms an unmistakable landmark for miles around, visible from far away.
But I have to give you fair warning about one important thing. If you were thinking of clambering up purely for the grand panoramas, you’ll be rather disappointed. The summit itself is densely covered with old beech woodland and there’s no view over the countryside at all. People climb Růžovský Vrch instead for the silence, the gorgeous primeval-style forest and a feeling of genuine peace — because, unlike Pravčická Brána, nowhere near as many tourists make it up here.
8. The Bastei and Saxon Switzerland (a trip across the border)
It would be a terrible shame to be so close to the German border and not pop over to our neighbours’ Saxon Switzerland National Park. Just across the border lies the famous Bastei stone bridge, masterfully wedged between tall sandstone towers high above the River Elbe. It looks almost unbelievable in photos, and in real life it’s said to be an even more impressive sight. The bridge itself and the adjacent viewpoints are freely accessible with no admission fee.
Getting here is very simple. Just hop on the border ferry in Hřensko, connecting the Czech bank with the German village of Schöna, and from there continue comfortably by train along the river — or treat yourself to a lovely excursion by pleasure boat. Just remember you’re crossing into another country, so although the Czech Republic and Germany are both in the Schengen Area and there are no routine checks, you should still carry a valid passport or national ID card with you.
💡 Tip: Before you head off into the deep forests and rocks, download offline maps of the whole area to your phone. The signal in the gorges and among the rocks is very poor and often drops out entirely, so a saved map will be a big help in finding your way.
Where to eat
After a solid day of trekking across rocks and viewpoints, you build up a proper appetite — and good food is simply the foundation of any successful trip. Right in the thick of the action by Pravčická Brána you can sit down at the Falcon’s Nest (Sokolí Hnízdo) chateau, where they serve classic mountain cuisine and you can savour a hot coffee with an incredible view straight onto the enormous rock arch. Other popular inns and restaurants are concentrated mainly at Mezní Louka and down in Hřensko. If you’re spending more time around Jetřichovice, you’ll come across smaller family pubs serving excellent home cooking at friendlier prices than in the main tourist centres.
The region is historically well known for its local forest and game specialities, which you’ll find on the menus of traditional pubs.
Lukáš and I don’t eat meat, though, so we always eagerly seek out the meat-free options — and luckily you won’t go hungry here. In most pubs you’ll easily find the failsafe classics: smažený sýr (fried cheese) and chips, hearty garlic soup, crispy potato pancakes, or sweet yeast dumplings and pancakes with forest fruits, which give you exactly the right energy boost after a demanding hike.
Where to go next
- what to see in Prague
- where to go on holiday in Czechia
- Detailed guide: Pravčická Brána
You’ll find useful links for planning your trip on the official website of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park Authority, on the official tourist portal, and for visiting the arch directly at Pravčická Brána.
Frequently asked questions
Do you have to pay an entrance fee to Bohemian Switzerland National Park?
Entry to the national park itself is completely free. You only pay admission to selected tourist attractions, such as the Pravčická Gate area with viewpoints (around €5), boat rides through the Wilde Gorge (around €3), or entry to the sandstone labyrinth of Tiské Walls (around €4). You can enjoy the surrounding nature and hiking trails free of charge.
Can you walk directly onto the arch of Pravčická brána?
No, direct access to the sandstone arch of Pravčická Gate has been strictly prohibited since 1982. The reason is severe erosion and the great fragility of the sandstone, which was slowly crumbling under the pressure of millions of footsteps. You can admire the majestic bridge from several beautiful designated viewpoints in the immediate vicinity or from the Falcon’s Nest château.
What did the 2022 fire cause and is the park open?
A major fire in summer 2022 affected over a thousand hectares of forest around Hřensko and undoubtedly changed the face of the landscape. Nevertheless, most of the park is normally and completely safely open to tourists. Only the burned area and places with the danger of falling dead trees remain closed, including the popular Gabriela Trail. Pravčická Gate, the gorges, and viewpoints are normally accessible.
Where is the best place to park when visiting Pravčická brána?
The best starting points are the paid parking lots directly in the village of Hřensko or at nearby Mezní Louka. However, during summer season and on sunny weekends, both places fill up incredibly fast, so I really recommend arriving as early as possible in the morning, ideally before 9 AM, to avoid circling around for a long time.
Are Edmund Gorge and Wild Gorge accessible by boat?
Currently, only the Wild Gorge with the shorter boat ride is open to tourists. Unfortunately, the operation of Edmund Gorge, also called the Quiet Gorge, was significantly affected by the consequences of a forest fire and its gradual restoration is being addressed. Please always check the current status directly on the national park administration website.
Can you get to Bohemian Switzerland by train?
Yes, traveling by train here is very comfortable. You can reach Děčín hlavní nádraží station by direct train from Prague or Ústí nad Labem. Right in front of the station, you can then transfer to tourist bus line 434, which will reliably take you directly to the heart of Hřensko, to Mezní Louka, and further to Jetřichovice.
Do I need a passport if I want to see Bastei Bridge?
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