While crowds of tourists squeeze through the narrow lanes of nearby Amalfi or pay through the nose for an astronomically priced espresso on snobby Capri, just a stone’s throw away lie two islands with a completely different vibe. The scent of lemons the size of small melons, cascades of pastel houses tumbling down to the sea, and an all-pervading calm make the Bay of Naples a destination that instantly pulls you into the plot of an old Italian film.
Ischia in Italy and its tiny neighbour Procida are the absolute embodiment of the Italian dream, but each one plays a completely different tune. While volcanic Ischia is a celebrated green paradise full of hot thermal springs and endless botanical gardens, little Procida holds onto its status as an untouched fishing village where time stopped somewhere back in the 1950s.
If you plan your trip well and avoid the logistical traps, you’ll come away with a memory to last a lifetime. I’ve put together a detailed guide packed with practical information so you’ll know exactly where to head for the best swimming, where to stay, and how to dodge unnecessary fines for parking in the wrong spot.
TL;DR
- Car ban on Procida: From 30 March to 15 October 2026 there’s an absolute ban on landing cars for non-residents. You can only reach the island by ferry as a foot passenger, and you’ll get around using buses or adorable micro-taxis.
- Ischia’s thermal parks: The biggest draws are Negombo and Giardini Poseidon, where a full-day ticket costs between €40 and €70, giving you access to dozens of healing pools.
- Free bathing: The Sorgeto thermal bay on Ischia offers hot springs bubbling straight into the sea, completely free of charge, 24/7.
- Where to soak up the atmosphere: Marina Corricella on Procida is the most photogenic pastel village in all of Italy, while the pedestrian zone in Sant’Angelo on Ischia offers undisturbed elegance.
- My Brilliant Friend: Although many people think otherwise, the famous series was filmed on the beaches of Ischia, not on neighbouring Procida.
- Getting there from the mainland: The cheapest and shortest ferries sail from the port of Pozzuoli, while slightly pricier but faster boats run from central Naples.
When to Visit the Bay of Naples
Timing your trip is absolutely crucial in this part of Italy, because the peak summer season can be utterly exhausting. During July and August, temperatures regularly hit 35°C, the narrow lanes burst at the seams under the onslaught of day-trippers, and accommodation prices climb to ludicrous heights. If you’re checking the Ischia weather before booking, this is the key thing to keep in mind.
By far the best time to visit is spring and autumn. If you go between late April and mid-June, the islands will be beautifully in bloom, the air fresh, and you’ll enjoy the sights without the crowds. Equally pleasant conditions return from mid-September to the end of October, when the sea is still gorgeously warm after summer and perfect for swimming.
Don’t forget to factor in the opening hours of the big thermal parks, which are Ischia’s main attraction. Complexes like Negombo or the Poseidon Gardens usually open their gates in mid-April and close at the end of October. The Sorgeto bay is accessible year-round, but in the winter months you’ll have to reckon with very limited ferry connections and most restaurants closed.
Where to Stay on the Islands
💡 Tip for accommodation and experiences: We like to look for places to stay on Booking.com, where the cancellation terms tend to be the best. For tickets, tours and activities, it pays to compare and book through GetYourGuide.
Choosing the right base determines the overall feel of your holiday, because each part of the islands offers a completely different dynamic. While families with children will appreciate the sandy beaches with their gentle slope into the water, couples seeking romance should head instead to the more secluded boutique hotels with cliff-top views.
If you opt for Ischia, the town of Forio is a great choice on the west coast, famous for the most beautiful sunsets and excellent access to the thermal parks. The absolute pinnacle of luxury here is the Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa, a stunning resort built inside a 16th-century defensive tower, boasting its own Michelin-starred restaurant. If you’re after classic elegance, the resort town of Lacco Ameno hides the legendary five-star thermal resort Regina Isabella, which has hosted film stars for decades. For couples, the Sant’Angelo district is absolutely ideal, where you’ll be charmed by the peaceful Hotel Apollon, just a few steps from the smaller thermal springs.
On Procida, a single night will do, but waking up to a view of the pastel harbour is unforgettable. I recommend taking a look at Hotel La Casa sul Mare, a sensitively restored 18th-century noble house offering a breathtaking view straight onto the Corricella bay. For lovers of design and wellness, a great alternative is La Suite Boutique Hotel & Spa, which combines a modern minimalist style with its own spa facilities in a quiet part of the island.
8 Tips on What to See and Do on Ischia and Procida
I’ve put together a detailed list of the most interesting spots you definitely shouldn’t miss while exploring the Bay of Naples. We’ve deliberately left out the crowded tourist traps and focused on places with authentic atmosphere, historical value, and unique natural wonders.
1. Castello Aragonese: A Fortress on Its Own Islet
The Aragonese Castle isn’t just an ordinary ruin — it’s literally an entire historic town towering on a volcanic rock. It’s connected to the mainland district of Ischia Ponte by a stone bridge, built back in 1441 by King Alfonso I of Aragon. As you stroll across the bridge, you’ll be treated to a wonderful view of the harbour and the surrounding colourful fishing houses.
Admission to the complex is €15 for an adult (children aged 10 to 18 pay €6, and the youngest get in completely free). You can either climb to the top of the rock via the ancient steps carved directly into the stone, or take the modern lift, which you’ll especially appreciate on hot summer days.
Inside the sprawling complex you’ll find a Poor Clares convent with a rather macabre cemetery, the remains of old cathedrals, and beautiful terraced gardens full of olive trees and cacti. Set aside at least two hours for your visit, because the views from the ramparts over the entire Bay of Naples and the distant island of Capri are absolutely phenomenal — you’ll want to linger.
2. Ischia’s Thermal Baths: Negombo and Giardini Poseidon
Ischia is of volcanic origin and its greatest treasure bubbles right beneath the surface. A visit to the big thermal parks is an absolute must, but each one offers a slightly different experience. The largest complex in all of Europe is the Poseidon Gardens (Giardini Poseidon) in the Citara bay near the town of Forio. A full-day ticket costs between €40 and €47, giving you access to over twenty pools with water temperatures from 16 to 40°C, including direct access to a sandy beach.
But if you’re after something truly special and more intimate, head to the Negombo park in the San Montano bay. This garden-and-architecture gem is best appreciated by couples and lovers of aesthetics, as the individual thermal cascades are cleverly nestled into a lush botanical garden.
Admission to Negombo is a little higher, running around €65–70 per day including a luxury sun lounger on the beach, but the tranquillity and level of service are well worth it. The park operates from April to roughly 11 October and opens at half past eight in the morning. Don’t forget to pack a swimming cap, which is strictly required in most Italian public pools, though you can usually buy one on site.
3. The Sorgeto Thermal Bay and the Most Beautiful Beaches
While the big parks are paid and organised, the Sorgeto bay offers bathing in hot springs completely free of charge, 24/7. It’s located in the south of the island near the town of Panza, where volcanic water at 36–38°C wells up straight into the sea waves. You can bathe in hot water even in the middle of winter or under a starry night sky.
Getting down to the bay does require a bit of fitness, however, as you have to tackle around 250 steep steps dropping from the cliff down to the sea. The alternative is to use the handy water taxis that regularly shuttle from the nearby port of Sant’Angelo. There’s no sand here, just large pebbles and rocks, so be sure to pack water shoes to avoid burning yourself on the hot stones right by the springs.
If you long for classic beach lounging, the island’s longest sandy beach is Maronti, where hot volcanic fumaroles even rise from the sand in several spots. For families with children, the ideal beach is San Montano near Lacco Ameno, with its beautiful golden sand and an exceptionally shallow, safe entry into the sea.
4. Magical Towns: Forio, Lacco Ameno and Sant’Angelo
Ischia isn’t only about swimming — it’s also about wandering through historic lanes. The largest town on the west coast is Forio, dominated by the dazzling white Soccorso church perched on a cliff above the sea. Travellers and locals alike agree that this is the spot to catch the most beautiful sunsets on the island. Near Forio you’ll also come across the gorgeous exotic gardens of La Mortella, created by the wife of British composer William Walton.
A noticeably more elegant atmosphere awaits in Lacco Ameno. This resort is famous for its symbol, Il Fungo, a giant volcanic rock bizarrely sculpted by sea erosion into the shape of a mushroom. This is where people come for luxury boutiques, expensive dinners, and evening promenades with a view of the yachts.
But the absolute visual gem is Sant’Angelo in the south of the island. It’s the only resort with a strict ban on cars, making it an entirely pedestrian zone full of quiet and calm. Pastel fishing houses cascade down to a small harbour and the narrow isthmus that connects the mainland with a small volcanic islet. It’s a perfect place for an afternoon coffee and a spot of boat-watching.
5. Marina Corricella: Italy’s Most Colourful Harbour
When you cross over to neighbouring Procida, you’ll immediately understand why this island, barely four square kilometres in size, became Italian Capital of Culture for 2022. Marina Corricella is the oldest fishing village on the island and its 17th-century appearance has barely changed to this day.
Looking at the cascade of houses, you’ll be struck by an incredible palette of pastel colours — from rich yellow through pink to sky blue. According to local legend, the fishermen painted their houses in bright colours so they could recognise their home from afar when returning from the sea in bad weather. You won’t find any giant hotels or snobby establishments here, just nets drying in the sun and small family-run taverns.
If the scenery looks familiar, you’ve probably seen it on the big screen. This is the very backdrop used for the famous film Il Postino (The Postman) as well as The Talented Mr. Ripley. It’s worth noting that, unlike the series My Brilliant Friend, which was filmed on the beaches of Ischia, Procida is home to more melancholic cinema.
6. Terra Murata and the Mysterious Palazzo d’Avalos
The best spot to photograph the whole of Marina Corricella is the viewpoint below the Terra Murata fortress. This fortified historic core forms the highest point of the island and once served as a refuge from pirate raids. The climb up the steep cobbled lanes is a bit of a workout in the summer heat, but you’ll be rewarded with complete peace and the shade of the medieval abbey of San Michele Arcangelo.
Part of the complex is also the majestic Palazzo d’Avalos, which has a surprisingly dark past. This former noble residence operated until 1988 as a high-security prison for the most serious criminals. Today you can take a look inside, but you need to book a guided tour in advance.
For an admission fee of €12 you get an hour-long excursion into its fascinating history, walking through the old cells and prison yards and getting a glimpse of the conditions the inmates lived in. From the palace windows you’ll also enjoy incredible views over the entire Bay of Naples and the giant ships heading to the mainland.
7. Getting There and Logistics: Watch Out for Strict Car Bans!
Logistics in Campania can be a nightmare if you underestimate the planning. Ferries to the islands depart primarily from two places: central Naples and the nearby port of Pozzuoli. Tickets from Pozzuoli are generally the shortest and cheapest (around €10.60 per person to Ischia), while from Naples you’ll pay about €14 and sail longer. You can choose between the slower large ferries (Caremar, Medmar) or the high-speed boats (Alilauro, SNAV), although the latter don’t carry vehicles. If you’re flying in from the UK, the easiest route is a direct flight to Naples (British Airways and easyJet both operate from London) and then a transfer to the port.
If you’re travelling in your own or a rental car, pay attention. From 30 March to 15 October 2026, there’s a complete ban on landing cars for tourists on Procida. You simply can’t bring your vehicle to this small island. Instead, you can only get around using the local EAV buses or by hiring one of the adorable three-wheeled micro-taxis (Apecar).
On Ischia the situation is a little more relaxed. In the summer season the ban only applies to residents of the Campania region, so as a foreign tourist you can bring a car to Ischia (you’ll need to use the ferry from Porta di Massa in Naples or from Pozzuoli). Be prepared, though, that most of the island’s towns operate strict low-emission and pedestrian zones (ZTL) in summer, where cameras will quickly snap and fine you for unauthorised entry.
8. Food: Vegetarian Heaven and Famous Lemons
The cuisine of the Bay of Naples is far from being all about seafood — lovers of fresh vegetables and honest ingredients will find plenty to enjoy here. You absolutely must try the traditional parmigiana di melanzane (a rich aubergine bake layered with tomato sauce and mozzarella) or the refreshing insalata caprese, which tastes utterly different made with local sun-ripened tomatoes than it does back home.
If you’re after a real culinary experience, book a table at the restaurant Il Mirto in Forio. This exceptional spot holds a Michelin Green Star and offers a fantastic fully vegetarian menu made from local ingredients. On Procida, you’ll be charmed by the restaurant La Pergola, tucked away right inside a romantic lemon grove, serving perfect ravioli filled with artichokes.
Procida, incidentally, is famous for its gigantic lemons, which have such sweet, thick pith (the so-called pane) that it’s used to make a unique insalata di limoni — a lemon-pith salad finished with fresh mint, olive oil, and a pinch of chilli. As for meat specialities, Ischia’s local jewel is coniglio all’ischitana (Ischia-style rabbit braised in wine with herbs), which you’ll find on the menu of most traditional mountain taverns. And to round off every meal, of course, there has to be a shot of ice-cold limoncello.
Where to Go Next from the Bay of Naples
If you have more time on your hands and want to explore the whole Campania region, the islands make an ideal launchpad for further adventures. From April to October there’s a direct seasonal high-speed ferry connection straight from Ischia to the famous island of Capri, which you’ll reach in about 45 minutes for €27 a ticket.
You can also head back to the mainland and continue south. Amalfi and the Amalfi Coast are an icon of Italian tourism, with their vertical towns and endless views. A great logistical hub for trips around the area is Sorrento, from where the direct Circumvesuviana train will take you comfortably and cheaply to both the ancient ruins of Pompeii and the very heart of pulsating Naples.
Wondering which other regions are worth adding to your travel plans? Browse our big guide on where to go on holiday in Italy, or get inspired by our tips on when to visit Italy to avoid the unpleasant crowds.
Frequently Asked Questions
How to best get to Ischia and Procida?
The most convenient way is to fly to Naples and from there make your way to the port. Ferries (Caremar, Medmar) and hydrofoils (Alilauro, SNAV) depart directly from the center of Naples (ports Molo Beverello or Porta di Massa) or from the nearby port of Pozzuoli, which offers slightly cheaper and faster connections.
Can I bring my own rental car to the islands?
In 2026, an absolute car ban for non-residents applies on Procida from March 30 to October 15. On Ischia, the situation is more relaxed and as a tourist from outside the Campania region you can bring your car, but you need to be prepared for summer low-emission zones (ZTL) in town centers, where entry is prohibited under penalty of a fine.
How many days should you set aside for a visit?
For tiny Procida, one leisurely day trip will easily suffice. Ischia, on the other hand, is quite large and full of thermal parks and historical monuments, so I recommend setting aside at least 3 to 5 days to explore it properly and soak up that perfect relaxing atmosphere.
Was the series My Brilliant Friend filmed on Procida?
Although many fans of the series think so, the story of Lena and Lina was not filmed on Procida. The famous summer scenes by the sea from My Brilliant Friend were shot on the beaches of Ischia, specifically on the long beach of Maronti and around the town of Forio. On Procida, on the other hand, the legendary film The Postman was filmed.
Which thermal park on Ischia is the best?
It depends on your preferences. Giardini Poseidon (approx. €40–47) represents the largest complex in Europe and is great for the general public and families. Park Negombo (approx. €65–70), on the other hand, is beautifully integrated into a botanical garden and will be appreciated by couples seeking a more luxurious and aesthetic experience.
Do thermal springs work in winter too?
Large organized thermal parks like Negombo or Poseidon are closed during winter and usually don’t open until mid-April. However, if you want to treat yourself to a hot bath off-season, the Sorgeto thermal bay is accessible year-round, 24 hours a day, and completely free of charge.
What should I definitely try in the islands?
Definitely don’t miss the local citrus specialties from Procida, such as the refreshing insalata di limoni (salad of lemon pulp and mint) or homemade limoncello. The classic parmigiana di melanzane is also an excellent choice. For meat lovers, a local symbol of Ischia is the braised rabbit called coniglio all’ischitana.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
🚗 Car rental on the roadVerified rental cars in ItalySearch with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
Compare car prices in Italy →Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
