Most of the time, I see mountains when I close my eyes for a moment. I see Banff. Tunnel Mountain, Rundle Mountain, Sulphur Mountain. I recite them quietly in my head, perhaps so I won’t forget them. So their shapes won’t fade, so their names won’t disappear from my memory, so I’ll never lose track of which folds of that mountain body I’ll see when I stand on the dock at Vermillion Lakes. Let’s take a look at three tips for beautiful hikes around Banff, Canada.
Around the Town of Banff
Those treacherous shapes rising around the mountain town of Banff are more contagious than any disease in the world. They won’t let me go in the morning, they won’t leave me alone in the afternoon, but it’s worst at night. At night they bear down on me in their full force, calling me, pulling me toward them like sirens. I feel like a traitor to my Czech homeland. I know all too well that the word Canada bores people, yet I say it in every sentence, and most days my head is empty, and in that emptiness only one word is written: Canada.
The Rocky Mountains in Canada That Made Me Ditch My Heels
I toy with that word, back and forth. The desert around me is fairly white, filled only with smog and the smell of the Thames, which I breathe in as I walk through the lovely parts of London. In reality, I see only one word.
It grows bigger with every passing day, with each day I try to forcibly hold onto every detail of the mountains in my head. I could tell you about this one word for hours, days, nights. But none of you could actually take it. Even the strongest among you, the ones who’ve read this far, would drop.
And yet things looked so promising for me! Just three years ago I was climbing mountains in heels. Ten years ago my definition of “cold” was Mallorca, where it was 29 degrees when we visited. “But Mum, make sure it isn’t as cold there as in Mallorca!”
I really did love my heels. I’m only 164 cm tall, and ever since a certain age — when I woke up and saw my bow legs in their full glory in the mirror — I’ve carried a deep aversion to sporty sandals. I think nothing uglier exists, and for the longest time I only wore trainers in PE class at school and at the gym. Today I wear Merrell boots and I’m heading back in February to a town where it can drop to -30 °C. My disease is already at an advanced stage.
And it’s all the fault of these mountains, which I saw for the first time three years ago. If you ever find yourself there, here are a few peaks you can reach straight from the little mountain town of Banff.
Where to Stay in Banff
One of the most beautiful views belongs to the slightly dated (but clean) Juniper Hotel, where Lukáš and I spent a summer working first as cleaners and then as receptionists. I can also recommend the local restaurant there, which served excellent food along with a gorgeous view over the landscape. If you’d rather plan ahead, you can browse and book accommodation in Banff through Booking.com.
3 Hiking Tips in the Canadian Rockies
This picturesque area, set in the heart of the Canadian Rocky Mountains and one of the most stunning national parks in Canada, is paradise for lovers of hiking and adventure. Snow-capped peaks, crystal-clear lakes, wild rivers and endless forests form the backdrop for unforgettable experiences and the discovery of natural beauty. Get ready for the adventure of your life, uncover the magic of this one-of-a-kind place, and see the spots that changed our lives forever. Looking for guided excursions? You can find plenty of options on GetYourGuide.
Banff Hiking Tip: Tunnel Mountain
Duration: 1.5 hours
One of the easiest hikes up a small mountain, manageable for children and seniors alike. The climb to the top from the car park takes only 40 minutes.
On the way up Tunnel Mountain you won’t face any significant technical difficulties. The gently rising trail lets you move with ease and focus on the enchanting scenery around you. Fresh mountain air and the scent of mixed coniferous forests will accompany you at every step, along with birdsong and the rustle of the trees.
Weather plays a big role on Tunnel Mountain, with each season reflected in changes to the colour and atmosphere of the surrounding landscape. Spring blossoms and the rich greens of summer bring the whole mountain to life, while autumn paints it in vivid shades of orange, yellow and red. Even in winter you can have an unforgettable adventure, when the snow blankets everything like a pillow and the view from the summit opens onto a fairytale winter world.
At the top of Tunnel Mountain you’ll be rewarded with a fascinating panoramic view that reveals the charming town and the mountains surrounding it. In the right conditions you can even catch a majestic sunset, bathing the landscape in golden light and creating unforgettable scenes. Within moments you’ll understand why this particular mountain has become such a popular spot to rest and admire nature’s beauty.
Sulphur Mountain
Elevation gain: 700 m
Duration: 3–5 hours (depending on the route)
You can hike Sulphur Mountain or take the gondola up (25 CAD one way, or 49 CAD return — roughly 17 € one way / 33 € return). That makes it the most visited peak in Banff. The climb up is more demanding. From the car park where the trail begins, it can take about 1.5–2 hours to reach the summit. The elevation gain is 700 metres.
You’ll hardly meet anyone on the trail, but you won’t see much either, because for most of the way there’s nothing but forest. Then suddenly you emerge at the top and there are so many people around that you’ll want to turn back immediately. But there’s a short path along the ridge, and with every step you take the crowds thin out. On the way down you can choose the back trail — it’s longer, but there’s no one on it, and you might come across a pair of marmots and ground squirrels.
Cascade Mountain
Elevation gain: 1,615 m
Duration: 6.5–8 hours
Our first “three-thousander” — which is actually only 2,998 m — and we set out for it at a time when our bodies were definitely not ready for such a brutal climb. For the last hour I was bright red and could barely catch my breath, scrambling over giant boulders toward the summit and tripping over thin air, because my legs gave no sign of being built for a climb like this.
But we made it up. The trick is that you walk for 3–4 hours through forest and see absolutely nothing. So once you’ve got the final hour of climbing left and it finally looks like you might actually see something, you won’t give up.
It starts from the car park at the Mount Norquay Ski Lodge, where you first walk downhill, only to spend the next four hours scrambling uphill through forest. The midway point, an hour and a half from the summit, is the so-called amphitheatre, which really isn’t worth the detour. It isn’t marked, but you’ll spot it easily — your job is to keep heading uphill.
Sunset Tip Near Banff: Mt. Norquay
Our favourite spot for sunsets. Our favourite spot for watching the fireworks. You can hike it, but for me it’s tied to the viewpoint where you can park the car and soak up the cool Canadian summer evenings.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
🚗 Car rental on the roadVerified rental cars in CanadaSearch with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
Compare car prices in Canada →Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
