When we flew to Georgia, it had already been over a year since we started traveling non-stop, and we were tired. It seemed nothing could surprise us, but when I first saw the stone defense towers against the backdrop of the majestic Caucasian peaks, I changed my mind. Ushguli (Ušguli in Czech), the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe (if Georgia is considered part of Europe), is a treasure hidden at an altitude of over 2,100 meters above sea level, in a remote corner of the mountainous Svaneti region.

This cluster of four small villages with characteristic defense towers, nestled beneath the majestic massif of Mount Shkhara (5,068 m), represents one of the most authentic places in the entire Caucasus. A place where time has stood still, where people live in harmony with nature, and where you can experience the atmosphere of the Middle Ages in its purest form.

Let’s explore this hidden gem of the Georgian mountains together and find out why it’s worth making the challenging journey here.

Summary for those who Don’t Have Time to Read the Whole Article

• Ushguli consists of a cluster of four villages with unique stone defense towers, which are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site.
• The best time to visit is from June to September, when the roads are passable.
• To get to Ushguli, use an off-road taxi from Mestia (approx. 2 hours of driving through challenging terrain), or you can go by your own car, which is what we did, and I don’t highly recommend it.
• Don’t forget plenty of cash, warm clothing even in summer, and sturdy footwear.
• Stay at least overnight in a local guesthouse (Gamarjoba Guest and Art House) if you want the full experience.

Where is Ushguli and What should You Know?

Ushguli is located in the northwestern part of Georgia, in the historical region called Upper Svaneti. In fact, it’s not one village, but a cluster of four small settlements – Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi, and Murkmeli – with approximately 70 families and about 200 inhabitants in total.

This area is famous for its typical medieval defense towers (koški) from the 9th-12th centuries, which were built as protection against invaders. Each family had its own tower, which also served as a refuge, granary, and emergency dwelling.

The entire Upper Svaneti is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. And believe me, deservedly so – the landscape of defense towers against the backdrop of five-thousand-meter peaks is something that will take your breath away.

What makes Ushguli so special? It’s not only its location at an altitude of around 2,100-2,200 meters above sea level (making it one of the highest permanently inhabited places in Europe), but also its isolation. Snow lies here for half the year, and in winter, Ushguli is cut off from the world for months. Thanks to this isolation, the village has preserved its authentic character.

Where to Stay and What to be Aware Of

Most people stay overnight in Mestia, but I recommend staying in Ushguli during the summer as well. Accommodation tends to be more modest, but that’s part of the experience. It’s not expensive yet either, so why not stay there? We liked Gamarjoba Guest and Art House.

When is the Best Time to Visit Ushguli?

If you want to avoid problems, the ideal time is from June to the end of September. During these months, the weather is usually most stable – plenty of sunshine, minimal precipitation, and all roads are passable.

July and August are the warmest months, but also the busiest – many groups go trekking during this period, and guesthouses can be full, so book your accommodation in advance. September is more suitable for those who want fewer tourists but still good weather.

June can be rainy at first, and snow may still lie in the passes on trekking routes. October is a lottery – the first half often still offers sunny days, but it can also snow prematurely and close the passes.

From November to May, Ushguli is usually inaccessible – the road is often closed by snow, and guesthouses are shut. Unless you are an experienced expedition traveler, do not venture into Svaneti in winter.

Personally, I recommend September – nature is vibrant with colors, the weather is usually stable, and you can enjoy the best of Ushguli without tourist crowds.

How to get to Ushguli: the Journey Itself is an Experience

The journey to Ushguli is an experience in itself, and if you want it to be hassle-free, use local services. Most people depart from Mestia, which is the main town of Svaneti, from where Ushguli is located approximately 46 km east (by road).

There is no direct public transport to Ushguli – no marshrutkas or buses run here. You have several options to get there:

Off-road Taxi from Mestia

The most common option is an off-road taxi from Mestia. Every morning, drivers with 4×4 vehicles (most often Delica vans) wait in Mestia’s central square. The price for a round trip is usually around 50 GEL per person.

It works like a shared taxi/shuttle – it departs around 10:00 AM when the car is full, and you arrive in Ushguli in approximately 1.5-2 hours. Drivers make stops at viewpoints along the way. You have a few hours on site for sightseeing, and the vehicle returns to Mestia around 3-4 PM.

If you want to stay overnight in Ushguli (which I highly recommend), arrange an individual return ride with the driver for the following day and pay upon your return.

Private Driver or Tour

If you want it to be truly hassle-free, I recommend going on a trip through GetYourGuide. It’s safe, comfortable, and most importantly, stress-free.

On Foot in the Mountains – the Famous Trek from Mestia to Ushguli

The most famous long-distance route in Georgia is the four-day mountain trek from Mestia to Ushguli (approximately 56 km in total). Along the way, you’ll cross passes around 2,500-2,700 m above sea level and pass through picturesque valleys with Caucasus panoramas.

The classic daily stages are: Mestia → Zhabeshi (16 km), Zhabeshi → Adishi (12 km), Adishi → Iprari (18 km) via Chkhunderi Pass (2,719 m) and the Adishchala River ford, and the final Iprari → Ushguli (12 km).

Overnight stays are in simple mountain guesthouses along the way, which have emerged in recent years in every village (Adishi, Iprari, etc.). For mountain hiking enthusiasts, this trek is a true highlight of a visit to Georgia.

By your Own Car

Ushguli is only accessible by car in summer and dry conditions, which is what we did, and it was quite hardcore. More than traveling in Europe, it reminded us of traveling in Uganda. The road from Mestia leads through a narrow valley along the Inguri River – the first approximately 30 km are now newly paved (concrete/asphalt), while the last roughly 15 km are a gravel and bumpy road.

The section before Ushguli is the worst – broken surface, potholes, occasional stream fords. P However, if there haven’t been recent rains, an experienced driver can manage it even with a regular car. However, it’s definitely better to have a 4×4 vehicle with higher ground clearance to avoid damage on the stony road.

From Mestia to Ushguli, allow approximately 2 hours of pure driving time (50 km), or easily 3 hours with photo stops and breaks.

12 Tips on What to See and Do in Ushguli

But now, let’s take a look at what to see and do in Ushguli.

1. Svan Defense Towers (Koški)

Symbol of Ushguli and all of Svaneti. These are tall stone towers from the 9th-12th centuries that served as fortified refuges and defense against invaders. Each family had its own tower, also used as a granary, stable, or emergency dwelling.

To this day, several dozen of these 3-5 story high towers have been preserved in Ushguli – typically square-shaped with small windows. The towers, along with the stone houses, create a unique open-air medieval museum, thanks to which Ushguli is under UNESCO protection.

From this perspective, the most picturesque is the village of Chazhashi, where the concentration of towers is highest and where the traditional character of the settlement has been preserved to this day.

2. Lamaria Church (Nanatsilevi)

On a raised hill above the village of Zhibiani stands the white Church of the Virgin Mary (Uspenie Bohorodice) from the 9th-10th centuries, known as Lamaria. I t is the most significant sanctuary in Ushguli, surrounded by an old cemetery from the 12th century. Original wall paintings and frescoes have been preserved inside.

Lamaria is shrouded in legends among the Svans – for example, it is said that women were not allowed to enter the church (perhaps due to an ancient superstition). Today, Lamaria is freely accessible to all visitors and offers an iconic view – a frequently photographed shot of the small church with a tower against the backdrop of the Shkhara glacier.

For the Svans, the place holds spiritual significance; Lamaria is the Svan name for the Mother of God, and locals still come here to pray for protection. Ancient bells hang by the church, and you’ll also find small stone chapels in the vicinity.

3. Museums and Treasures of Ushguli

Although Ushguli is very remote, it hides surprisingly valuable historical exhibits. The main Ushguli Historical Museum is located in one of the towers near the crossroads in the Chazhashi section.

For a symbolic entrance fee (approx. 3 GEL), you’ll see a collection of unique artifacts, such as old gold and silver jewelry, decorated 10th-century crosses inlaid with gold, or a 6th-century Syrian golden cup with biblical motifs. These treasures bear witness to the rich history of Svaneti; according to locals, the gold comes directly from the surrounding mountains. Photography inside is prohibited, but the experience is well worth it.

The Ethnographic Museum is located near Lamaria. A very old lady, who remembers the original use of the exhibited items, guides visitors there. You’ll see traditional Svan tools, weapons, costumes, and even a hand-operated water-powered flour mill. The entrance fee is around 5-10 GEL.

4. Shkhara Glacier and the Hike to It

The hike to Shkhara Glacier (approx. 8 km one way) is one of the most beautiful and relatively easy treks in Svaneti. The trail follows the Inguri River and gently ascends to a moraine, offering a fantastic view of the glacier tongue and the peaks of Shkhara directly above you.

The round trip takes about 5-6 hours; most visitors set out early in the morning when the mountain is best visible (in the afternoon, it often gets shrouded in clouds).

5. Horse Riding

Those who don’t dare to go on foot can take advantage of local offers and hire a horse with a guide. For a multi-hour ride to the glacier, you’ll pay dozens of Lari (approximately 50 GEL and up per person, depending on the length and number of people in the group).

Horses are an inseparable part of Svan life, and the view of Ushguli from horseback has its unique charm. Local horses are accustomed to mountain terrain and will safely transport you even to more challenging places.

6. Zagaro Pass (Zagari)

Another natural attraction is Zagaro (Zagari) Pass – a high-mountain pass at an altitude of 2,622 m above sea level on the border of Upper and Lower Svaneti. From Ushguli, an old dusty road winds up the slope to it; as a walk, it’s approximately 7-8 km (2-3 hours) one way.

The reward is a panoramic view of both sides of the main Caucasian ridge. This route continues further into the remote Lentekhi region, but due to its difficulty (steep switchbacks, fords), it is only suitable for experienced tourists with off-road vehicles or mountain bikes.

7. Tower of Love and Tamar’s Castle

While walking through Ushguli, you definitely won’t miss the so-called Tower of Love. This isolated tower stands by the road from Mestia even before Ushguli, and drivers like to stop here. A tragic love story is associated with it (after which the tower was named) – it’s a Svan equivalent of Romeo and Juliet.

In Ushguli itself, visit Tamar’s Castle in the settlement of Chazhashi. The ruins, also known as Queen Tamar’s Summer Palace, stand on a small hill above the village. According to legend, the legendary Queen Tamar, whom the Svans still revere today, actually resided here in the 12th century – they even claim that the queen is buried in the inaccessible mountains of Svaneti. From the castle ruins, there is a beautiful view of the entire village.

8. Walk through all Four Villages

The entire Ushguli can be walked through from the highest part, Zhibiani, to the lowest, Murkmeli, in just approximately 30 minutes. Along the way, you’ll enjoy various views of the towers, peek into courtyards, and perhaps even encounter free-grazing cows, goats, or pigs wandering between houses – in Ushguli, farm animals move independently and return to their stables on their own in the evening.

I recommend starting in Zhibiani (the upper part, where Lamaria is located), then descending to Chvibiani, which lies by the river. Continue to Chazhashi (over a low hill) and finally visit Murkmeli with its additional towers and small church.

9. Tasting Svan Cuisine

Mountain cuisine is hearty and simple, based on dairy products, meat, and potatoes. A typical dish you must try in Ushguli is kubdari – a stuffed flatbread with spiced meat, considered the national dish of the Svans.

It is a dense leavened bread filled with chopped pork or beef, seasoned with mountain herbs, garlic, and especially Svanetian salt (svanuri marili) – a mixture of salt and aromatic spices (including cumin, coriander, fenugreek, dill). Thanks to this mixture, kubdari has a distinct spicy flavor and a beautiful aroma of Caucasian herbs. The flatbread is traditionally baked in a wood-fired oven to make the dough crispy and the meat inside juicy.

Another local specialty is tashmijabi – a cheese puree made from potatoes and homemade cheese (similar to the well-known Georgian elarji). You can also try chvishtari (cornbread with cheese pieces) or the famous khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) in its mountain variant. Svanetian salt is used in almost everything here, and you can even buy it to take home as an edible souvenir.

10. Sunset over the Ushguli Towers

One of the most magical experiences you can have in Ushguli is watching the sunset. When the evening rays illuminate the peaks of Shkhara and the defense towers cast long shadows into the valley, a sight like something from another world is created.

I recommend finding an elevated spot with a view of the village (for example, from Lamaria Church or Tamar’s Castle) and calmly observing how the landscape gradually turns into shades of orange and then purple. It’s a moment when you fully realize why the challenging journey to this remote corner of the world was worth it.

11. Stargazing

There is almost no light pollution in Ushguli, making it an ideal place for observing the night sky. If you’re lucky enough to have a clear night, you’ll see an incredible number of stars, a clearly visible Milky Way, and perhaps even some planets.

Locals often say that in the winter months, when the village is cut off from the world and covered in snow, the view of the stars above the snow-capped mountains is even more intense. It’s one of the few advantages of the harsh winter life in these remote areas.

12. Meeting Local Svans and Their Culture

The Svans – the indigenous inhabitants of Svaneti – are a small Caucasian nation that has preserved its distinct culture, language, and customs for centuries. They live in remote valleys and have never been fully subjugated by foreign conquerors. The name Ushguli reportedly comes from the Svan “ush-ishkhari guli” – “fearless heart”, which captures the determination of the locals to remain in the harsh mountains.

The Svans are Orthodox Christians, yet with many original elements of their faith. Long winter months cut off from the world have led generations of Svans to deep piety – “in the silence of the snow-covered mountains, there is nothing left but to turn one’s mind to eternity,” it is written in one Georgian report.

Life in Ushguli remains rustic and modest to this day. Locals traditionally engage in cattle breeding and hunting; unlike most Georgians, they hardly cultivate grapevines or indulge in large wine festivities. Mountain life has always been harsh, and the Svans are accustomed to ascetic simplicity.

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Where to stay in Ushguli

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Gamarjoba Guest and Art House

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What to Know before Visiting

Now let’s look at some practical tips.

Mobile Signal and Internet

Surprisingly, mobile coverage here is quite good – according to travelers, some operators (Magti, Geocell) even have LTE signal in Ushguli. However, quality fluctuates, and outages are not uncommon.

Wi-Fi networks are only exceptionally available (perhaps in one or two guesthouses via satellite), so don’t rely on Wi-Fi and rather get a data SIM card already in the city.

Respect for Locals and Their Customs

The Svans are proud people – treat their traditions with respect. For example, enter Lamaria Church dressed modestly (for women, a headscarf and covered knees are recommended, although today they no longer strictly require it).

It’s not advisable to climb towers without permission – some are private or in a dilapidated state. When photographing people, it’s polite to ask with a gesture or the words “photo ok?”. Many locals prefer to avoid being photographed, while others might surprise you and even invite you for tea.

Learn a few Georgian or Svan words (e.g., thank you = madlobt, Svan hva) – this will break the ice.

Beware of Dogs

Large Caucasian Shepherds are common in Svaneti – in Ushguli, you’ll see them roaming freely. They are usually not dangerous (unless you approach them); in fact, they often serve as unofficial “guides” for tourists around the village.

Nevertheless, it’s good to be cautious, especially outside the village near herds where dogs guard sheep from wolves – in such cases, it’s better to avoid a group of large dogs.

FAQ

You’ll fall in love with Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia and often called the pearl of the Caucasus, because it offers absolutely everything you could wish for. Founded in the 5th century by King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the city was a crossroads of trade routes for centuries, and to this day, Orthodox churches, a mosque, and a synagogue stand side by side, just a few steps from each other.

Tbilisi boasts a beautiful Old Town full of winding streets, historical monuments, and traditional sulfur baths, as well as modern architecture. If you love food, Georgian cuisine will delight you.

In this article, Tbilisi, Georgia: 25 Best Things to Do and See, you’ll find out what to see and do in Tbilisi, and where to stay.

TL;DR

• The best city views are offered by Narikala Fortress, which you can reach by cable car from Rike Park, and the Mother of Georgia statue, which symbolically welcomes friends with a cup of wine and deters enemies with a sword.
• Don’t miss the traditional sulfur baths in the historic Abanotubani district – you can choose public baths or rent a private bath room (60-100 GEL).
• Taste Georgian specialties like Khinkali (meat-filled dumplings), Khachapuri (cheese-filled bread), or Pkhali (vegetable appetizers with walnut paste).
• Explore the city’s contrasts: from the Old Town with its winding streets to the futuristic Bridge of Peace, from Orthodox cathedrals to hipster cafes in the former Fabrika factory.
• For a day trip, head to nearby Mtskheta with its UNESCO World Heritage Sites, or to the Kakheti wine region for a tasting of traditional Georgian wines.

When to Visit Tbilisi?

When to visit Tbilisi? Spring (April-May) is probably the most beautiful time to visit Tbilisi. Temperatures are pleasant, ranging from 15-25°C, and the city turns green and blossoms. Plus, there aren’t as many tourists as in summer, so you can peacefully enjoy the sights and local atmosphere.

In summer, temperatures can exceed 30°C. The city is full of tourists, but it’s also alive with festivals. If you enjoy evening strolls and sitting on terraces, you’ll love it. Moreover, if you want to go hiking in the mountains for some summer tourism, I would choose summer or early September.

In autumn (September-November), temperatures gradually drop from the summer heat to a pleasant 15-20°C, and the city is enveloped in beautiful autumn colors. It’s the time for grape harvests and wine festivals, which are very important in Georgia, as the country has the oldest winemaking tradition in the world. November can be quite rainy, so I would personally choose September or the first half of October.

Winter (December-March) in Tbilisi is relatively mild, with temperatures around 5-10°C, occasionally dropping below zero. Snow is rare, but when it does fall, the city gains a romantic charm. Winter is the cheapest time to visit, and the Christmas atmosphere in Tbilisi is wonderful. In winter, you’ll mainly enjoy museums, galleries, baths, and cozy restaurants and wine bars.

Where to Stay in Tbilisi

It depends on what exactly you’re looking for. The Old Town (Abanotubani) is the heart of historic Tbilisi and an ideal place for those who want to be close to the main sights and traditional sulfur baths. Accommodation here often has a traditional Georgian character with wooden balconies and views of winding streets. Old City Apartment in Tbilisi is excellent.

The Sololaki district borders the Old Town and offers elegant accommodation in 19th-century Art Nouveau buildings. It’s a quieter area, but still within walking distance of the main attractions. Here you’ll find stylish boutique hotels that often preserve original architectural elements. We recommend the luxurious accommodation Pomegranate in Old Tbilisi.

The area around Freedom Square and Rustaveli Avenue is the modern city center with good public transport connections. You’ll find international hotel chains as well as smaller independent hotels here. This location is convenient for those who want to be close to shops, restaurants, and cultural institutions like the Opera or the National Museum. Rivendell Boutique By Umbrella offers beautiful accommodation near Rustaveli.

The Vera district is popular among younger travelers and artists. You’ll find many hipster cafes, galleries, and bars here. Accommodation in this area is often more affordable than in the city center itself and includes a range of hostels and apartments. The Tbilisi Pod is a nice and affordable hostel.

Tbilisi, Georgia: 25 Best Things to Do and See

Let’s take a look at what you should see in Tbilisi.

Narikala Fortress – the City’s Landmark and Best Viewpoint

This ancient fortress, founded in the 4th century, stands on a rocky promontory above the Kura River (Mtkvari). Its mighty defensive walls and the newly reconstructed St. Nicholas Church within the complex have been preserved to this day. You can ascend on foot through the narrow streets of the Old Town, or more comfortably by taking the modern cable car from Rike Park (fare approx. 2 Lari). From the walls of Narikala, a panoramic view of the entire city unfolds, especially impressive at sunset.

Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba)

The monumental Orthodox cathedral, completed only in 2004, is one of the tallest Orthodox churches in the world (measuring 86 m). It rises on a hill on the left bank of the river, forming an unmissable city panorama. Within the cathedral complex, you’ll find beautifully maintained gardens, and the terrace by the church offers another nice view of Tbilisi. Sameba is a symbol of modern Georgia and an example of traditional sacred architecture.

Mother of Georgia Statue (Kartlis Deda)

The aluminum statue of a woman with a sword and a cup of wine, overlooking the city from the slope next to Narikala, has become the personification of Tbilisi. It was erected in 1958 for the city’s 1500th anniversary and measures 20 meters. In one hand, she holds a cup of wine to welcome friends, and in the other, a sword to defend against enemies – symbolically expressing the Georgian national character. The statue can be reached by a short walk from Narikala Fortress along the ridge of Sololaki Hill.

Old Town and Religious Sights

The multicultural heritage of Tbilisi is reflected in the historic Abanotubani district and around Freedom Square. Ancient Georgian churches (e.g., Sioni Cathedral from the 6th century with relics of St. Nino, or Metekhi Church on a cliff above the river), an Armenian church, a mosque, and a synagogue all stand side by side here – all within a few minutes’ walking distance.

In Freedom Square (Tavisuplebis Moedani) in the heart of the city, a gilded column with a statue of St. George symbolizing independence stands tall – it is located on the site of the former Lenin statue, which was torn down in 1991. The square and the adjacent Rustaveli Boulevard form the main axis of the city center.

Rustaveli Avenue and Surroundings

The impressive 1.5 km long Rustaveli Avenue is lined with important buildings and cultural institutions. Here you’ll find the opulent National Opera building in Oriental style, the Rustaveli State Academic Theatre, the former Parliament building, the National Museum of Georgia (with rich archaeological collections and an exhibition on the Soviet occupation), as well as elegant cafes and Western-style shops.

While strolling along Rustaveli, you’ll also come across picturesque small squares (e.g., Gudiashvili) and several smaller museums and galleries. Not far beyond Freedom Square begins the Sololaki district, with preserved Art Nouveau buildings and a flea market near the Dry Bridge, where you can buy antiques and souvenirs.

Bridge of Peace

This modern glass pedestrian bridge over the Kura River, opened in 2010, has become one of Tbilisi’s contemporary symbols. In the evening, the bridge is spectacularly illuminated by hundreds of LED lights and puts on its own light show. Its boldly futuristic design sparks controversy, as it contrasts with the historic character of the surroundings. The bridge connects Rike Park on the left bank with the Old Town on the right bank and is a popular spot for evening strolls.

National Botanical Garden and Legvtakhevi Gorge Waterfall

The National Botanical Garden, located beneath the Narikala fortress walls, is also worth a visit; it cultivates over 4,500 plant species across 161 hectares (admission approx. 3 GEL). Also located directly in the city is the sulfur waterfall in Legvtakhevi Gorge near the baths – a small natural nook where a warm mineral spring cascades into a small river.

Jumah Mosque

The only surviving mosque in Tbilisi (the so-called Jumah Mosque, from the 19th century) stands near the waterfall; you’ll recognize it by its red brick minaret, and it’s accessible to tourists (shoes must be removed before entering).

Bathing in Traditional Sulfur Baths

Tbilisi is famous for its sulfur baths in the historic Abanotubani district. Hot mineral springs (38–45 °C) rich in sulfur emerge from underground here, giving the city its name (tbili means “warm” in Old Georgian). Typical bathhouses with brick domes provide beneficial baths that are said to help with skin and rheumatic conditions.

You can choose public baths (separated for men and women, admission around 5 GEL) or rent a private bath room with its own small pool for an hour (approx. 60–100 GEL depending on the quality of the baths). Traditional kisa scrubs and massages are also available for an extra charge.

Tip: The water can be very hot – if it’s too much for you, you can mix in cold water, but be careful with the faucet markings: cold water is paradoxically often marked with a red tap! After a relaxing bath, be sure to also try local tea or coffee in one of the nearby tea houses to rehydrate.

Folklore and Traditional Culture

Georgian folklore is renowned for its energetic dances and polyphonic musical expression. In Tbilisi, you can experience performances by the Sukhishvili National Ballet or folk ensembles that showcase captivating Caucasian dances in colorful costumes. Such performances are often part of cultural events or offered by some restaurants during dinner.

Also popular is the Rezo Gabriadze Puppet Theatre, which takes place in the picturesque Marionette Theatre with its whimsically crooked clock tower – every day at noon and 7:00 PM, a little angel emerges from the tower and rings a bell for a short performance called “The Circle of Life.” This experience is especially appreciated by families with children.

While strolling through the Old Town, you might also encounter street musicians playing the panduri (a traditional lute) and singing old Georgian songs, or visit one of the galleries featuring folk art and crafts. Georgians highly value their culture – try learning a few words in Georgian (e.g., gamarjoba = hello, madloba = thank you), the locals will appreciate it.

Markets and Bazaars

You’ll soak up the true atmosphere of a Caucasian marketplace at the local markets. The largest is Dezerter Bazaar, an extensive fresh food market near the main railway station. Upon entering, you’ll be amazed by piles of fragrant spices – turmeric, blue fenugreek, sumac – and heaps of fresh vegetables and fruits (e.g., pomegranates, melons, grapes in season).

Locals also sell homemade cheeses, pickled vegetables, herbs, and of course, churchkhela – traditional sweets made from nuts dipped in grape must. You can haggle and sample at the market, which is an experience in itself.

Another popular spot is the Flea Market at Dry Bridge, where you’ll find junk, antiques, military badges, old cameras, vinyl records, and paintings by local artists. For street food lovers, the evening Rezniční Market (Deserter market food stalls) is recommended, where you can taste grilled skewers, filled flatbreads, and other delicacies from street stalls.

Modern Districts and Cafe Culture

Tbilisi isn’t just about historic streets; it also boasts modern hipster spaces and cafes. An excellent example is the creative hub Fabrika – a former Soviet textile factory transformed into a stylish hostel with an inner courtyard full of bars, cafes, art workshops, and graffiti. In the evenings, it comes alive with concerts and open-air screenings, while during the day, you’ll find young artists working on their laptops over coffee.

Another trendy spot is the pedestrian zone Aghmashenebeli Avenue on the left bank, where new bars, bistros, and boutiques have sprung up after facade renovations – it’s called New Tbilisi. Vake and Vera, formerly residential districts, are also transforming into areas full of stylish cafes and wine bars. For instance, Cafe Stamba, located in a former printing house (part of a design hotel), is worth noting; there you can enjoy excellent coffee and pastries under the high ceiling of an industrial hall.

Tbilisi has a strong cafe culture – locals love to sit and chat over Turkish coffee or tea with a street view, and many establishments offer outdoor seating on the sidewalk or in courtyards.

Viewpoints, Cable Cars, and Park Attractions

Thanks to its hilly terrain, Tbilisi offers many beautiful views. A popular excursion destination is Mtatsminda Park, located on a hilltop above the city. You can reach it by the historic funicular from Chonkadze Street, which is an experience in itself. At the top, you’ll find an amusement park with a Ferris wheel, a roller coaster, and other attractions, as well as an observation terrace and a restaurant with an amazing panoramic view of Tbilisi – an ideal spot for dinner at sunset. Prices at the Mtatsminda restaurant are surprisingly affordable; you don’t have to worry about a surcharge.

Another cable car will take you from Rike Park to Narikala Fortress, as mentioned above – this gondola lift crosses the river and offers a bird’s-eye view of the Old Town during the ride. In good weather, it’s also worth taking the chairlift from Vake Park to Turtle Lake (Kus Tba) – it’s a smaller recreational lake named after the turtles that live there. Locals come here for picnics, and open-air concerts are held here in the summer.

If you prefer walking, head to the Mother of Georgia statue and then walk down to the city center from there – along the way, you’ll pass old Persian baths, gardens, and hidden nooks of Old Tbilisi.

Gastronomy: What to Taste and where to Eat in Tbilisi

Tbilisi is a paradise for food lovers. Georgian cuisine is renowned for its combination of distinct flavors, fresh ingredients, and fragrant spices. Hearty meat dishes and diverse vegetarian meals are typical – there’s something for everyone. Key ingredients include walnuts, eggplant, beans, corn, Sulguni cheese, fresh herbs like cilantro, and spices such as blue fenugreek or adjika.

Georgian Specialties You Must Try

Khinkali are large, manti-like dumplings filled with a juicy meat mixture, boiled and served sprinkled with pepper. They are also called “Georgian ravioli” or soup dumplings because broth forms inside – properly, khinkali should be eaten by hand, first biting into them and slurping the juice, then eating the rest (the top knot of dough is traditionally not eaten). The most common filling is a mixture of beef and pork with herbs (the so-called kalakuri or city style); in the mountains, lamb versions are also made, and there are variants with mushrooms, cheese, or potatoes. Khinkali are a highlight of Georgian cuisine – usually, a whole plate is ordered for the table and shared.

Khachapuri is literally “cheese bread,” the national dish of Georgia. It’s a leavened dough flatbread filled with melted Sulguni cheese, often shaped like a boat with an egg on top (Adjarian style from the Adjara region) or in a round, pizza-like form (Imeretian style from the Imereti region). There are many variations depending on the region. Hot khachapuri is incredibly filling and delicious – definitely have it for breakfast or as a quick street food. A popular street-food version is Penovani – khachapuri made from puff pastry. Anyone who loves cheese dishes will fall in love with khachapuri.

Mtsvadi (shashlik) are pieces of marinated meat (pork, beef, or chicken) skewered and grilled over hot coals. Georgian shashlik is usually served with sliced raw onion, sprinkled with pomegranate seeds, and accompanied by spicy tkemali plum sauce. Fresh shoti bread and a tomato and cucumber salad pair well with it. You’ll find Mtsvadi on the menu of almost every traditional restaurant – it’s a Caucasian classic similar to Turkish shish kebab.

Pkhali and Badrijani are cold appetizers made from ground cooked or roasted vegetables mixed with a seasoned walnut paste. Pkhali are small patties or rolls – popular variations include spinach, beetroot, or cabbage, always with walnuts, garlic, and cilantro. Badrijani Nigvziani are elongated rolls of grilled eggplant filled with walnut paste and garnished with pomegranate seeds. These delicacies are vegan and incredibly delicious. Together with mchadi corn bread and pickled vegetables, they form a traditional appetizer platter that pairs perfectly with wine.

More Georgian Delicacies

Other typical dishes include Lobio (bean stew in a clay pot, often with cilantro and pickled cucumber), Khinkali filled with cheese or potatoes (vegetarian variants), Chakapuli (lamb stew with tarragon and white wine), Ostri (spicy beef ragout), or Kharcho (hearty beef and walnut soup).

For desserts, try churchkhela – a string of nuts coated in solidified grape juice, sold in every market. As a digestif, give chacha a chance, a Georgian grape brandy similar to Italian grappa – it’s strong but high-quality.

Best Restaurants in Tbilisi

Tbilisi has countless restaurants, from family-run establishments to modern fusion bistros. For a first introduction to Georgian cuisine, it’s worth visiting the Machakhela restaurant in the Old Town, which offers traditional plates with small portions of various dishes – ideal for tasting a bit of everything.

For authentic khinkali, locals recommend establishments like Pasanauri (it has branches in the city center, famous specifically for its khinkali dumplings) or the pub Varazi – great food at reasonable prices.

For a modern interpretation of Georgian recipes, visit the renowned restaurant Barbarestan, which draws from 19th-century preserved recipes and serves them in a noble style (reservations required). If you prefer a more informal setting, try the courtyard of Cafe Littera in the Writers’ House or the popular spot Shavi Lomi, where traditional flavors blend with the chef’s creativity.

Tbilisi is also the cradle of wine – Georgian winemaking, with an eight-thousand-year-old tradition of producing wine in clay qvevri vessels, is inscribed on the UNESCO list. Throughout the city, you’ll find cozy wine shops and wine bars where you can taste excellent Georgian wines from the Kakheti, Imereti, or Svaneti regions. Recommended places include Vino Underground or 8000 Vintages, where sommeliers will introduce you to the best of local varieties (Rkatsiteli, Saperavi, etc.).

Wherever you go, don’t hesitate to ask the staff for recommendations – Georgians are proud of their food and drink and will gladly advise you on what to try.

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Where to stay in Tbilisi

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Old City Apartment

Excellent accommodation in historic Old Town Tbilisi, in the Abanotubani area, close to major landmarks and traditional sulfur baths.

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Pomegranate in Old Tbilisi

Luxury accommodation in the Sololaki district, which adjoins the Old Town and offers elegant living in 19th-century Art Nouveau houses with original architectural elements.

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Rivendell Boutique By Umbrella

Beautiful boutique accommodation in the modern city center near Freedom Square and Rustaveli Avenue, with good public transport connections and close to shops, restaurants and cultural institutions.

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The Tbilisi Pod

Budget-friendly and nice hostel in the Vera district, popular among younger travelers and artists, with many hipster cafes, galleries and bars in the area.

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Nightlife and Cultural Scene in Tbilisi

Tbilisi comes alive after dark, offering a wide range of entertainment – from traditional wine cellars and lively bars to renowned techno clubs. The local nightlife is as diverse as the city itself, combining the hospitality of Georgian culture with modern trends.

Bars and Pubs in the Old Town

In the historic center, especially around Shardeni Street and on the banks of the Mtkvari River, you’ll find numerous bars, pubs, and wine cellars with a unique atmosphere. Popular spots include Dive Bar, hidden in the basement of one of the old houses – it offers a relaxed atmosphere, often features live music, and its interior is adorned with exposed brick walls creating a cozy feel.

Many establishments have outdoor courtyards with views of illuminated churches and the Narikala fortress walls. Worth trying are homemade wines (samotnare) served by the glass or the traditional herbal liqueur chacha. Also popular among travelers is Warszawa bar, known for its cheap shots and international crowd, or Black Dog Bar with local craft beer.

Night strolls through old Tbilisi are generally safe and pleasant – the streets are full of people in the evening, and you’ll often hear music drifting from open windows or courtyards.

Modern Clubs and Dance Scene

In recent years, Tbilisi has earned the reputation of being the “new Berlin” thanks to its vibrant electronic music scene. The most famous club is Bassiani, located underground beneath the Dinamo Arena football stadium. This industrial space, with a capacity for thousands of people, is a mecca for techno music – it regularly hosts top domestic and international DJs, and the club is renowned for its high-quality sound system and intense atmosphere until the early morning hours.

Similarly iconic is the club Khidi (Georgian for “Bridge”), situated – as the name suggests – under a bridge structure (Vakhusti Bridge) on the riverbank. It opened in 2016 and quickly became a favorite among hard techno enthusiasts. It has three floors, can accommodate up to 1200 people, and in addition to music, it also focuses on visual arts and performances.

Among other venues, Mtkvarze is worth mentioning – a club in a former Soviet printing house on the embankment, which combines live concerts with DJ nights in a trendy setting (especially popular within the expat community). Also sought after is the stylish Lolita bar in the Vera district, located in a renovated historic villa with garden seating – a cafe by day, a bar with music by night.

The aforementioned Fabrika offers evening events in addition to its daytime cafe buzz – alternative music concerts, open-air DJ sets, and dark bars in the adjacent graffiti-filled alleys. Nighttime Tbilisi can thus satisfy both lovers of lively dance parties and those seeking a more intimate setting for wine or beer.

Culture and Art after Dark

For those who prefer cultural experiences, Tbilisi has plenty to offer in the evening. Both the Shota Rustaveli State Academic Theatre and the Marjanishvili Theatre regularly stage dramatic performances (often in Georgian, but the experience of the acting is still worthwhile).

The magnificent building of the Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre on Rustaveli Avenue hosts top-tier opera and ballet performances – if you can get tickets, don’t miss the opportunity to see, for example, the Georgian National Ballet in action.

For film lovers, there are stylish cinemas – such as Amirani or Rustaveli Cinema – which occasionally screen foreign films with English subtitles. Another interesting feature is the summer cinema in the park near the City Hall, where open-air films are screened in the summer.

Furthermore, a night stroll through the city will lead you to beautifully illuminated landmarks – the Narikala fortress walls, Sameba Cathedral, and Metekhi Church above the river are all lit up at night, creating a romantic atmosphere. And if you’d like to end your evening unconventionally, around midnight you can visit one of the 24-hour establishments – such as the restaurants Shemoikhede Genatsvale or Iveria Cafe – where you can get a hot meal or coffee at any time of night, which is especially appreciated by night owls and club-goers.

Day Trips from Tbilisi

The surroundings of Tbilisi are rich in attractive excursion destinations that can be visited on day trips. Here are tips for the most interesting places within reach of the capital:

Mtskheta – the Spiritual Heart of Georgia

The town of Mtskheta is located just ~20 km north of Tbilisi and is easily accessible by marshrutka (minibus) from Tbilisi (they often depart from Didube station, fare approx. 1 lari).

Mtskheta was once the ancient capital of Iberia, and today it is home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the majestic 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (the second largest cathedral in Georgia after the one in Tbilisi, said to house Christ’s robe according to legend), and the Jvari Monastery (Monastery of the Holy Cross) on a rock above the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers.

From this monastery, there is an iconic view of Mtskheta in the valley and the converging rivers – Georgians consider Jvari one of the most sacred symbols of their country, and many cross themselves when looking at it.

Mtskheta has a charming historic center with stone streets, where you’ll find stylish cafes, wine bars, and craft shops. The atmosphere here is peaceful and spiritual – a visit to Mtskheta is an unforgettable experience, especially if you happen to be there during a church service with mystical polyphonic chanting inside the cathedral.

Ananuri Fortress and Zhinvali Reservoir

Approximately 70 km north of Tbilisi, heading into the mountains along the Georgian Military Road, lies the picturesque Ananuri complex on the shore of the turquoise Zhinvali Lake. It is a medieval fortress of the Aragvi dynasty from the 16th–17th centuries, with preserved walls, towers, and two ancient churches adorned with reliefs.

The scenery is truly fairytale-like – the contrast of the reservoir’s blue-green surface and the surrounding forested mountains with the stone silhouette of the castle creates a perfect photo opportunity. Ananuri is one of the most visited castles in Georgia, not only for its beauty but also due to its easy accessibility: the journey from Tbilisi takes less than 2 hours, and most trips towards Kazbegi pass through here.

You can get here by marshrutka (e.g., heading towards Stepantsminda) or by rented car. It is recommended to climb the defensive tower, from where there is a panoramic view of Zhinvali Lake – especially on a sunny day, it’s well worth it. In summer, you can also swim in the reservoir or have a picnic on its shore.

Uplistsikhe and Vardzia Cave Cities

Georgia is famous for its ancient cave cities carved into sandstone cliffs. Closest to Tbilisi (approx. 100 km west) lies Uplistsikhe, which prospered for several centuries BC as a pagan and later a feudal city. Today, you can explore dozens of carved caves here – former temple halls, residential chambers, wine cellars – connected by tunnels and staircases. The most famous are the Tamada rock hall with carved inscriptions and the ancient theater.

Uplistsikhe is located near the city of Gori (Stalin’s birthplace, where you can visit the J. Stalin Museum, his birth house, and his railway carriage). Gori also has a fortress on a hill – a trip to Gori and Uplistsikhe can be combined into a single day. The cave city of Vardzia is another breathtaking site (12th century, Queen Tamar’s era), however, it is located in southern Georgia (about 4 hours from Tbilisi) and is more suitable for a longer trip or further travel into the country.

If you have time, Vardzia will impress you with the vastness of its complex (over 600 rooms carved into the rock) and well-preserved frescoes in the cave church. However, for a day trip, Uplistsikhe (half a day) or a Gori–Uplistsikhe combination (full day) is more practical.

Kakheti – the Wine Region

Wine lovers should not miss a trip east to the Kakheti region, renowned as Georgia’s most significant wine-producing area. Kakheti is not just about vineyards, but also ancient monasteries, picturesque towns, and the famous hospitality of its local people.

From Tbilisi, trips often head to Sighnaghi, a romantic hilltop town dubbed the “City of Love” with preserved fortress walls and views of the Alazani River valley. In Sighnaghi, you can visit the Wine Museum or taste wines from small producers (e.g., at Okro’s Wines cellar). Another center is Telavi, around which there are numerous chateau (castle wineries) – for example, Tsinandali Castle with a museum of the famous Chavchavadze wine-making family.

In Kakheti, you can take a wine tour – a trip to several wineries with tastings. Besides wine (from white Rkatsiteli to red Saperavi), you’ll also taste churchkhela and local cheeses. The region’s landmarks include Bodbe Monastery (the resting place of St. Nino) or Gremi Fortress. You can get to Kakheti by marshrutka (e.g., to Sighnaghi from Samgori station) or by car (the journey takes around 2–3 hours). Ideally, you should set aside at least one full day for Kakheti, but preferably two days with an overnight stay, to fully enjoy the peaceful rural rhythm and the sunset over the vineyards with a glass of wine in hand.

Kazbeg and Gergeti

For those yearning for mountain scenery, an unforgettable trip is the journey along the Military Road north to the foothills of Kazbegi. The road passes through the high-mountain Jvari Pass (2379 m) and offers stops such as the Friendship Arch monument with a valley view or the mountain resort of Gudauri (paragliding in summer, skiing in winter).

The destination is the village of Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) beneath the majestic Mount Kazbek (5047 m). Above the village, on a ridge at an altitude of 2170 m, stands the photogenic Gergeti Trinity Church (Cminda Sameba) with a panorama of snow-capped peaks – one of Georgia’s iconic images. You can reach the church by off-road vehicle from Stepantsminda or hike up (a more challenging trek of ~1.5 hours).

A full-day trip to Kazbegi is quite long (one way 3–4 hours), but absolutely unique for mountain and nature lovers. Alternatively, in summer, you can visit the closer destinations of Jinvali and Ananuri (mentioned above) and perhaps only go as far as Gudauri to the arch – you’ll still see the magic of the Caucasus.

Getting around the City

Tbilisi has a relatively efficient public transport system – two metro lines, a dense network of buses, and marshrutka minibuses. The metro runs from early morning until midnight, and a ticket costs just 1 lari; you’ll need a plastic Metromoney card (2 lari deposit) available from vending machines in the metro. Station names are written in both Georgian and Latin script and announced in English. Buses operate with the same card and cover most of the city; the fare is also 1 lari.

Marshrutkas (numbered vans) are cheap but can be more complicated – they don’t have fixed schedules or stops at tourist attractions, and you need to know their destination. For tourists, they can be difficult to use, and often a taxi or walking is a more convenient alternative.

Taxis in Tbilisi are available on every corner and relatively inexpensive. It’s recommended to use mobile apps like Bolt or Yandex Taxi, where you can see the price beforehand (a short ride in the center usually costs 5–10 GEL). This way you avoid haggling over the price and get an official vehicle – locals on forums recommend this approach. Driving around the city can be chaotic due to traffic and driving style, so if you’re not used to it, it’s better not to drive in the center and use public transport or taxis.

Car Rental vs. Public Transport

The decision of whether to rent a car in Tbilisi depends on your plans. A car is worthwhile if you want to take trips around the area independently – it gives you the freedom (e.g., to visit more remote monasteries, vineyards, or mountains). Roads from Tbilisi to major destinations (Mtskheta, Kazbegi, Kakheti) are mostly in good condition.

However, you need to account for somewhat wilder traffic: driving in Georgia is “headstrong” – drivers don’t always follow rules, they drive quite aggressively, and you might encounter cows, goats, or pigs on the road. However, as experienced travelers note, despite the chaotic impression, Georgian drivers are not outright reckless – they won’t intentionally endanger you, and if there’s a problem, they’ll gladly help. If you have average driving skills, you can drive in Georgia without major difficulties.

Parking in Tbilisi city center is limited – the Old Town streets are narrow and often crowded. There are paid zones (payment via SMS or app) and a few guarded parking lots, but it’s best to leave your car at your hotel/accommodation if possible and get around the city on foot or by taxi. Public transport within Tbilisi is more than sufficient for tourists – the metro and buses are reliable and have significantly improved in the last decade. For example, from Avlabari station (center), you can reach Didube bus station (the starting point for marshrutkas to regions) in a few minutes, etc. For longer distances within the city, you can also use the tram-train line (so-called Rapid Bus Transit) or newly introduced electric buses.

Safety in Tbilisi

According to statistics, Tbilisi is one of the safest cities in Europe. The level of street crime is very low, violent acts against tourists are rare, and overall, one can feel safe even at night. Police are present in the streets, and Georgians are very friendly and willing to help visitors.

Nevertheless, it’s wise to observe common precautions: be mindful of personal belongings in crowds and markets, and avoid visibly carrying large sums of money or valuables. While pickpocketing is not nearly as big a problem here as in other tourist cities, it does occasionally occur – especially in crowded metro or bus situations, keep an eye on your wallet and phone.

Begging children may be present near metro stations or in the city center – it’s not recommended to give them money, as they can be persistent and others might immediately gather. Instead, it’s better to offer food if you wish. Scams targeting tourists are not common, though some tourist restaurants in the center might try to charge “special” prices – always check your bill and insist on a correction if necessary (most establishments are honest, however). Using a taxi app will protect you from overcharging; if you negotiate with a street taxi driver, agree on the price beforehand.

Tap water in Tbilisi is commonly drunk by locals and is officially safe for health (it comes from mountain sources). However, travelers are advised to drink bottled water, or at least boil tap water, as a change in environment and water composition can cause stomach issues for more sensitive individuals.

Pharmacies are available in the city and well-stocked (they often dispense medicines without a prescription in urgent cases). Street food is mostly safe – grilled and baked dishes are heated through, just avoid raw salads in questionable places.

No vaccinations beyond routine ones are mandatory before traveling, but travel insurance is recommended (medical care in private facilities is of good quality but expensive without insurance). The unified emergency number in Georgia is 112 (it works for police, ambulance, and fire services, and operators usually speak English).

Interesting fact: upon entering the country, you often receive a leaflet with the tourist hotline number (0-800-800-909), which you can call for free 24/7 for advice or assistance in English. This is part of Georgia’s effort to ensure the safety and comfort of tourists.

What to Prepare for before Traveling to Georgia

Georgia is a very hospitable country – be prepared for locals to treat you like a valued guest. It’s not uncommon for strangers to approach you kindly, chat, or even invite you for a glass of wine. Georgians are proud of their culture and traditions, so it’s appropriate to show respect: for example, dress modestly when entering a church (women should cover their heads and shoulders with a scarf, men should wear long trousers), and at monasteries, it’s not recommended to shout loudly or smoke (smoking near temples is considered desecration and can lead to problems with the police).

Public drinking of alcohol is prohibited and fined in Georgia, as is smoking in many public places – so it’s better to enjoy a bottle of wine in a restaurant garden than on the street. Regarding traffic, be cautious when crossing roads – in Tbilisi, many drivers do not yield to pedestrians, even at crosswalks or on a green light. It’s always better to wait, even if you have the right of way, and make sure cars have stopped.

On travel forums (TripAdvisor, Reddit), people also advise: don’t overestimate your tolerance when consuming Chacha, the Georgian brandy, which is very strong – feel free to try it, but slowly, and toast with the traditional “Gaumarjos!” (Cheers!). If you venture outside Tbilisi, avoid entering the territories of Abkhazia and South Ossetia from the Georgian side – these are breakaway regions with unclear status, and entry there is illegal under Georgian law (and also dangerous). However, Georgia itself is safe; even hitchhiking is common, and drivers often give you a ride for free or for a symbolic fee.

And a final piece of advice: enjoy it! Tbilisi offers a mix of old and new, tranquility and bustle – immerse yourself in its atmosphere, taste everything you can, and let yourself be carried away by Georgian hospitality. Your adventure in Tbilisi will surely be unforgettable.

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