A firsthand account of the very real Tatras dangers — from getting caught in a terrifying lightning storm to learning why you should always look up in the mountains.
At the end of January, we set off on a train trip to Krakow, Zakopane, and the Polish and Slovak Tatra Mountains, stopping in Bratislava on the way back. Here's our detailed itinerary with costs and tips so you can replicate the journey.