You know that feeling when you long for total exotica, endless beaches and a turquoise ocean, but the thought of packed Caribbean resorts where you fight hundreds of other tourists for a patch of sand fills you with dread? That’s exactly why it’s time to turn your gaze to Mexico’s Pacific coast. While the Mayan Riviera and Tulum are bursting at the seams and battling drifts of sargassum seaweed, the Pacific coast still holds onto its wild, untamed soul. And right here, in the state of Oaxaca, lies Puerto Escondido, Mexico. A little town that was once just a sleepy fishing village has transformed into a surfing mecca, yet without losing any of its laid-back, almost magical atmosphere.
If you’re looking for a place where you can catch waves by day, sip fresh coconut water in the shade of palm trees in the afternoon, and dance in the sand under the stars at night, you’ve come to the right address. The Pacific here tends to be cooler and darker than the Caribbean, but in return it’s wonderfully clean and teeming with life. In this guide you’ll find 12 tips on what to see and do in Puerto Escondido, advice on which beaches are safe for swimming, where to base yourself strategically, and how a brand-new highway gets you here faster than ever before.
TL;DR
- Where it is: Mexico’s Pacific coast, state of Oaxaca. The Pacific doesn’t suffer from sargassum seaweed, so the beaches are clean year-round.
- Who it’s for: Ocean lovers, surfers, digital nomads, and travellers chasing a relaxed “boho” vibe without giant hotel complexes.
- Best beach for swimming: Playa Carrizalillo (great for beginners and families, sheltered by a bay).
- Best beach for surfing: Zicatela (legendary giant waves, but extremely dangerous for casual swimming).
- Getting there: A new highway runs here from Oaxaca City, cutting the journey to just 2.5 hours instead of the original eight.
- Prices: Significantly cheaper than Cancún or Tulum. A great breakfast can be had for under £3.
- When to go: November to April, the dry season, when temperatures hover around a pleasant 29 °C.
Weather in Puerto Escondido, Mexico, and when to go
Planning a trip to Mexico largely comes down to whether you want to get rained on or not. The Pacific coast has a very clearly defined rainy season and dry season, so the month you choose plays a huge role in the kind of holiday you’ll end up with. As a rule, the best time to visit is during the British winter and early spring.
💡 Tip: If you’re interested in a detailed weather breakdown across the whole country, definitely check out our in-depth article when to go to Mexico, where you’ll find detailed information about every region.
The most ideal conditions run from November to April. In these months the chance of rain drops almost to zero, the sky is swept clean, and temperatures hold steadily around 29 °C, while the ocean water is a gorgeous 28 °C. January, February and March are, according to local guides and travellers alike, absolutely the best months to visit. Bear in mind, though, that high season peaks from mid-December to mid-January. During this time the town comes alive, cafés are packed, and you may need to book accommodation several months ahead — otherwise you’ll be left with only the priciest or least comfortable options. From May to October comes the rainy season, with huge humidity, frequent showers (mainly in the afternoon and evening) and rougher seas, which experienced surfers love but which isn’t exactly ideal for a regular holiday.
Where to stay: neighbourhoods by traveller type
Puerto Escondido isn’t one single uniform beach but rather a cluster of several completely different bays and neighbourhoods. Each has an entirely distinct atmosphere, so the location you pick for your accommodation will fundamentally shape your whole holiday experience. Prices are still far friendlier here than in the Caribbean, and you’ll find everything from cheap hostels to gorgeous boutique hotels.
💡 Tip: For finding accommodation in Mexico, the classic Booking.com has proved most reliable, but you’ll also discover plenty of beautiful local apartments by browsing the map. Try to find accommodation with air conditioning, because the nights here can be genuinely hot and muggy.
If you’re a digital nomad or you’re after the coolest, most laid-back vibe full of vegan bistros and stylish bars, definitely base yourself in La Punta. This southernmost part is currently the most popular and has an unmistakable boho feel that’s a little reminiscent of Bali. For families with kids and anyone who mainly wants to swim in calm seas, the absolutely ideal neighbourhood is Rinconada. It sits on the cliff right above Carrizalillo beach — quiet, safe, and with plenty of excellent restaurants within walking distance.
The Zicatela neighbourhood, by contrast, is the epicentre of nightlife and surf culture. Stay here if you want to be in the thick of it, watch giant waves from your balcony, and don’t mind a bit of evening noise. And if you’re on a tight budget, Centro (the town centre, set a little back from the beach) offers the cheapest options, authentic local markets and great access to public transport.
Puerto Escondido isn’t one beach but several separate worlds: surfy La Punta, wild Zicatela and the family-friendly Carrizalillo bay. Choose your neighbourhood based on whether you’re chasing waves, peace and quiet, or design — they’re not within walking distance of one another.
💑 For couples: Casa Kuaa is a design boutique right on the beach in La Punta Zicatela, with water access and sunsets over the ocean (from ~£130 per night).
👨👩👧 For families: Villas Carrizalillo are cliffside villas above the calm Carrizalillo bay with their own staircase down to the beach, a pool and kitchenettes (from ~£145 per night).
💰 Best value for money: Casa de Olas Boutique Hotel sits in the heart of La Punta, three minutes from the beach, with a pool, a rooftop palapa and a surfer vibe for great money (from ~£48 per night).
✨ For the experience: Casona Sforza is an adults-only flagship with terracotta vaults right on the beach and suites with private plunge pools (from ~£400 per night).
| Traveller type | Neighbourhood | Hotel pick | Price per night |
|---|---|---|---|
| 💑 Couples and design | La Punta (Zicatela) | Casa Kuaa | from ~£130 |
| 👨👩👧 Families and calm seas | Rinconada / Carrizalillo | Villas Carrizalillo | from ~£145 |
| 💰 Best value for money | La Punta | Casa de Olas Boutique Hotel | from ~£48 |
| ✨ Luxury and experience (adults only) | right on the beach | Casona Sforza | from ~£400 |
Booking tip: for all of these hotels, choose a rate with free cancellation — plans change and you don’t want to pay for somewhere you never end up reaching. And don’t leave it to the last minute: the top-rated addresses sell out months in advance in high season, and prices then jump by tens of percent.
What to see and do in Puerto Escondido: 12 tips
Puerto Escondido and its surroundings offer so many activities that you could easily spend a fortnight here and still have things to discover. From adrenaline in the waves to night swims in glowing water to utterly chilled-out days with a book in hand.
Let’s take a look together at the best of what this Pacific gem has to offer. I’d recommend spacing out your activities so that after every more demanding outing you have a day of pure beach relaxation.
💡 Tip: Given the high temperatures, always plan your most demanding activities — such as longer clifftop walks or market visits — for the early morning, when the air is still pleasantly fresh.
1. Zicatela and its legendary “Mexican Pipeline”
Playa Zicatela is the heart of all of Puerto Escondido and the main reason this place ever made it onto the world map. The three-kilometre strip of golden sand is famous for its enormous waves, which break here with stunning force. These waves are often nicknamed the “Mexican Pipeline” and in the summer months can reach heights of over 6 metres. It’s an utterly mesmerising spectacle: you can sit safely at a beach bar, sip a chilled drink, and watch professional surfers from all over the world tame the ocean.
But there’s one huge warning. Zicatela is completely unsuitable for ordinary swimming. Travellers and official guides strongly warn against swimming here, because the powerful surf and treacherous rip currents can drag even a very capable swimmer hundreds of metres from shore in just a few minutes. Better to just stroll along, photograph the beauty, and watch out for the sand, which during the day gets so scorching you can barely walk on it without shoes.
2. Carrizalillo bay for lovers of calm water
If you started to panic after reading the previous point, worried there’s nowhere to swim here, let me reassure you. Playa Carrizalillo is the polar opposite of Zicatela and, honestly, it’s probably the most picturesque spot in the whole area. It’s a gorgeous, palm-fringed bay sheltered by tall cliffs, thanks to which the water is calm and turquoise and the waves break far out from shore. The gentle entry into the water is absolutely ideal for families with children or for anyone who wants to try surfing for the first time.
There’s just one catch. To reach this paradise, you have to walk down roughly 170 stone steps. The way down is romance itself, but the afternoon climb back up in full sun is a bit of a workout. Visitors’ experiences also recommend heading here as early in the morning as possible, because after eleven o’clock this small beach can get quite crowded. Entry is of course free; you only pay if you want to rent loungers from the local stalls.
3. Soak up the nomad atmosphere in La Punta
What was once an unassuming, dusty fishing settlement at the very south of Puerto Escondido has become the trendiest neighbourhood on the entire coast. La Punta has unpaved sandy lanes that everyone strolls barefoot, and it’s full of beautiful design cafés, vegan bakeries and boutique shops. Today it’s a renowned enclave of digital nomads and an international community, where laptop work blends seamlessly into afternoon surfing.
An absolute must is to come here in the early evening. The unofficial meeting spot for the whole community is the rocky lookout headland at the very end of the beach. Around five in the afternoon, hundreds of people start to gather, sit down in the sand or on the rocks, and together watch one of the most beautiful sunsets Mexico has to offer. It’s a magical ritual that’s guaranteed to fill you with positive energy.
4. Snorkelling at Playa Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito
These two beaches lie right next to each other in one wide bay, separated only by a small rocky outcrop. Unlike Carrizalillo, you don’t have to tackle hundreds of steps here — access is much easier, and you can reach it from the centre by taxi for a few pesos. The water is wonderfully calm and crystal clear, which makes these beaches the best spot for snorkelling in all of Puerto Escondido.
Around the rocks you’ll meet plenty of colourful fish and sometimes even sea turtles that swim in to feed. Puerto Angelito tends to be more popular with local families, so weekends here can be very lively and cheerful, while Manzanillo keeps a slightly quieter atmosphere. You’ll find lots of small restaurants right on the sand where you can grab a refreshing drink.
5. Magical bioluminescence in the Manialtepec lagoon
About 20 minutes’ drive north of town lies the enormous Manialtepec mangrove lagoon, which hides one huge natural secret. At night, a fascinating natural show unfolds here in the form of bioluminescence. The water is full of a specific microorganism (plankton) that reacts chemically and glows at any movement.
Imagine swimming in warm, dark water, and with every stroke clouds of tiny sparks light up around you. According to reviewers, it’s one of the best experiences in the area, with the water glowing white and tiny blue luminous dots clinging to your skin. The phenomenon is most intense in November and December, and the key is to go at night when there’s a new moon (minimum natural light). Trips here usually cost around 600 to 800 MXN (roughly £28–38) and often include some evening birdwatching too.
6. Releasing baby turtles into the ocean
The state of Oaxaca is one of the most important sea turtle nesting grounds in the entire world. And you can be right there when the tiny, freshly hatched turtles set off on their perilous first journey into the Pacific waves. Local conservation associations on beaches like Bacocho or Palmarito organise public releases of these tiny creatures every evening.
It works like this: for a small contribution (around 150 MXN, roughly £7), which goes entirely to support the rescue stations, you receive a wooden bowl with one baby turtle. You then gently place it on the sand and watch from a safe distance as it bravely scurries toward the water. It’s an incredibly moving experience that brings tears to your eyes, and on top of that you’re directly supporting a good cause.
7. Drive the new highway from Oaxaca
This is an absolute game changer for travel in the region. Right up until February 2024, the journey from the inland colonial city of Oaxaca to the coast meant an utterly exhausting six-to-eight-hour drive along dangerous, winding mountain roads that left even the hardiest travellers feeling sick.
Now, though, the brand-new Barranca Larga–Ventanilla highway is open. Thanks to it, the journey has been cut to an incredible 2.5 hours. You can easily take a trip up into the mountains, visit the gorgeous markets, taste the famous mezcal in Oaxaca, and be lying on the beach again by the afternoon. The drive is very safe, but locals warn that with this new accessibility the region is beginning to experience a huge boom — so the sooner you come, the more authentic the experience that awaits you.
8. Whale and dolphin watching
If you visit Puerto Escondido during the winter months — specifically December to March — you stand a great chance of spotting majestic humpback whales. These enormous whales migrate to warmer Mexican waters at this time of year to raise their calves. You can commonly spot them breaching or spouting geysers straight from the beach.
Even better, though, is to pay for a morning boat trip. These excursions set off early in the morning from the main beach, and besides whales you’ll almost certainly come across huge pods of playful dolphins, with hundreds of them swimming at once. Trips usually last around three hours and prices hover around 600 to 900 MXN.
9. Lose yourself in the colours of Mercado Benito Juárez
If you want to escape the tourist bubble for a while and experience real, raw Mexico with all its scents and noise, head into the town centre to Mercado Benito Juárez. This covered market is the pulsing heart of the town, and you can buy absolutely anything you can think of here.
You’ll find heaps of fresh exotic fruit, beautiful hand-woven Oaxacan textiles, local ceramics, freshly roasted coffee and mountains of aromatic spices. It’s also the best place to buy souvenirs at a fraction of the price you’d pay at the beach stalls. And don’t forget to smile and haggle a little — it’s part of the local etiquette.
10. Take a day trip to magical Mazunte
About an hour’s drive south lies the small town of Mazunte, which holds the official Mexican title of “Pueblo Mágico” (Magic Town). It has an even more laid-back and spiritual atmosphere than Puerto Escondido. Yogis, healers and people seeking total peace make their way here.
The main draw of Mazunte, though, is Punta Cometa — the southernmost tip of the state of Oaxaca. A short, roughly twenty-minute walk through the jungle leads you to high cliffs jutting straight out into the ocean. It’s the most beautiful place to watch the sunset (and sunrise) for miles around, because from this point you have a completely unobstructed view of the endless Pacific horizon.
11. Ditch the swimsuit at Zipolite beach
Right next to Mazunte you’ll find Zipolite. This place is utterly unique in Mexico, because it’s the only official and legal nudist beach in the entire country. The atmosphere here is incredibly friendly, free-spirited and free of any judgement.
The beach is lined with small rustic bars and cafés where you can relax all day. The sea here tends to be rougher, so caution while swimming is wise, but for long walks in the sand and a feeling of absolute freedom, Zipolite is utterly perfect. You can get here easily by shared vans (colectivos) from Puerto Escondido for just a few dozen pesos.
12. Nightlife and beach bars
Although Puerto Escondido is a paradise for surfers and yogis by day, once the sun goes down it transforms into a pulsing centre of fun. Don’t expect giant nightclubs with laser shows like in Cancún — the parties here happen barefoot in the sand under the open sky.
You’ll find the greatest concentration of bars with live music and DJs on Zicatela and in the La Punta area. The evening usually starts with excellent food, continues with local craft beers or mezcal cocktails, and ends with dancing around a fire right on the beach until the early hours. Each day of the week, a different bar has “its” night too, so just ask the locals where to head out that particular evening.
What to eat: Mexican cuisine from the plant kingdom
Mexican cuisine is on UNESCO’s list of intangible heritage, and trust me, for vegetarians it’s an absolute paradise. Although Oaxaca is also famous overall for its meaty specialities (like the classic cochinita pibil, various tacos al pastor or the ubiquitous ceviche made from fresh fish), you’ll have no trouble putting together a menu here that’ll have you grinning ear to ear without compromising your ethical principles.
💡 Tip: Learn the phrases “Soy vegetariano/a” (I’m a vegetarian) and “Sin carne, por favor” (No meat, please). Local cooks are very accommodating and will happily adapt almost any dish for you.
For breakfast, definitely try the traditional chilaquiles — fried pieces of corn tortilla drenched in rich green or red salsa, sprinkled with fresh cheese, topped with sour cream and served with bean paste. For lunch at street stalls, I’d recommend looking for quesadillas filled with cheese and flor de calabaza (squash blossoms) or huitlacoche (Mexican corn truffle — a distinctive, wonderfully earthy fungus). In the La Punta area you’ll find countless modern vegan bistros serving fantastic tacos with marinated mushrooms, cauliflower or falafel. And on the beach, never turn down elote — grilled corn slathered in mayo, sprinkled with cheese and chilli; it’s absolute perfection!
Practical travel tips
To make sure your trip goes without any needless wrinkles on your forehead, it’s good to know a few practical things in advance. Mexico is generally very much a cash country, and in Puerto Escondido that goes double.
💡 Tip: Always carry plenty of Mexican pesos in smaller notes. Most smaller businesses, food stalls and taxi drivers don’t take cards at all.
When you do withdraw from an ATM, watch out very carefully for so-called DCC (Dynamic Currency Conversion). The machine will offer you a “guaranteed” conversion rate into your home currency. Always reject this offer (Decline Conversion), because the fees for this conversion can climb to 8 or 9%, which will cost you a fair bit unnecessarily on larger withdrawals. The current rate is around 21 MXN to £1.
As for safety, Puerto Escondido is very safe for tourists and there’s a thoroughly easy-going mood here. Just use common sense — don’t leave valuables unattended on the beach and stick to well-lit areas at night. For getting around town, local taxis and shared vans called colectivos work brilliantly, taking you along the main road across the whole town for 10–15 pesos. Uber doesn’t reliably work here yet because of protests by local taxi drivers, so rely on the classic ones (just always agree the price upfront). Also remember that as a UK traveller you’ll want a Mexican eSIM to stay connected on arrival — Holafly offers handy unlimited-data plans for Mexico.
Where to go next in Mexico
If Puerto Escondido has cast its spell on you and you’re planning to explore the country more thoroughly, be sure to check out our other guides that we’ve put together for you.
- You’ll find a basic overview of the whole country and the best itineraries in our big article what to see in Mexico.
- If you take the new highway inland, you mustn’t miss the country’s culinary heart. Read our tips on what to do in the city of Oaxaca.
- Tempted to explore the more northern part of the Pacific coast too? Then check out our guide to the resort of Puerto Vallarta.
You can book trips to see the bioluminescence, turtles and whales on GetYourGuide.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Puerto Escondido?
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The best weather is from November to April, when it’s the dry season, there’s no rain, and both air and water temperatures are very pleasant. January and February are the absolute peak of the season.
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Is swimming in Puerto Escondido safe?
Depends on the specific beach. The main Zicatela beach is extremely dangerous for swimming due to giant waves and rip currents. Safe swimming is offered by calm bays like Playa Carrizalillo, Puerto Angelito, or Playa Manzanillo.
Is the Pacific coast troubled by sargassum seaweed?
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No, unlike the Caribbean coast (Cancún, Tulum), sargassum seaweed doesn’t occur in the Pacific. The beaches here are clean year-round and the water is beautifully clear, though a bit cooler than in the Caribbean.
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How are the prices in Puerto Escondido?
Puerto Escondido is significantly cheaper than the Caribbean part of Mexico. You can get an excellent local breakfast for under €3, accommodation and services are very affordable here, with the Centro area being the cheapest.
How do I best get to Puerto Escondido?
The town has its own small airport with direct flights from Mexico City. Also very popular now is the journey by car or bus from the city of Oaxaca on the newly opened highway, which takes only about 2.5 hours.
Does the internet work well in the city for digital nomads?
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The situation has improved significantly in recent years, especially in the La Punta district where several coworking spaces with reliable connections have emerged. Larger hotels and cafés now commonly offer Starlink, but occasional brief power outages still occur here.
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Can I learn to surf here as a complete beginner?
Absolutely! While Zicatela is only for professionals, at beaches like La Punta or Carrizalillo you’ll find plenty of surf schools offering lessons for complete beginners in much gentler waves.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
🚗 Car rental on the roadVerified rental cars in MexicoSearch with the DiscoverCars comparison engine — it compares prices from dozens of local and international rental companies, and most bookings come with free cancellation.
Compare car prices in Mexico →Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
