Slovakia isn’t just the Tatras (even though we all love them) and Bratislava. This beautiful country has so many stunning corners that you could spend years exploring without going anywhere else. We fell in love with Central Slovakia in June, explored the Banská Bystrica region and we’re already looking forward to coming back. We visited the Bank of Love, descended into a mine, and saw a village so romantic it could rival the famous Hallstatt in Austria.
Map of Central Slovakia Attractions
Things to Do in the Banská Bystrica Region and Surroundings
Harmanecká Cave
For a long time, we’d been skipping caves on our trips, and it was only here that we realised what a mistake that was. If you can, head to Central Slovakia and visit this stunning stalactite cave located in the Kremnické vrchy mountains (on the border with Veľká Fatra), 16 km northwest of Banská Bystrica, near the village of Harmanec.
After a short but very steep 1.5 km hike from the car park, you’ll reach Harmanecká Cave, which sits on the Kotolnica hill at 821 metres above sea level. Since you have to climb 260 metres from the car park, you’ll enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding hills. The total length of the cave is 3,123 metres, but only one kilometre is open to tourists. Even on hot summer days, the temperature inside the cave stays around 6°C year-round.
During World War II, partisans hid here from the Nazis. Today, only thousands of bats call it home over winter. But don’t worry — in summer you’ll encounter just a few stragglers (bats, that is). We only spotted one.
- Opening hours: Varies by season, usually Tuesday to Sunday all day, check current hours here
- Price: €6 adults, €5 students, €3 children
Vodný Splav Rakytovo (Water Flume)
If you’re already visiting Harmanecká Cave, make sure to stop by the last functioning water flume in Slovakia — and indeed in all of Europe. Water flumes were historically used to transport timber from the forest down to the valley. This flume is 2,450 metres long, starting at an altitude of 700 metres and ending at 532 metres. Next to the flume there’s a charming little cottage that makes a lovely backdrop for photos.
Banská Bystrica
This charming city was once reportedly declared the most beautiful city in Czechoslovakia. Whether that’s true, you’ll have to judge for yourself, but today it’s a dynamically developing cultural centre and an excellent base for hiking and cycling.
The main square frequently hosts live music events, there are plenty of restaurants with outdoor seating, and the city even has its own leaning tower (the Clock Tower from 1552), which tilts at 9 degrees and can be climbed. Banská Bystrica is the sixth largest city in Slovakia, serves as the cultural and economic hub of Central Slovakia, and is inseparably linked to the mining history of the region.
Wine and Cheese
Slovakia isn’t just about brynza cheese, halušky (potato dumplings) and borovička (juniper spirit). The local cheeses and wines are outstanding, and if you visit Central Slovakia, you should at least give them a try. We headed to Hiadlovský Farm for wine and good food, where we tasted not only local volcanic wines but also other wines from across Slovakia.
Špania Dolina
Špania Dolina is a gorgeous mining village known primarily for its centuries-long history of copper mining. The copper mining has its own museum, but make sure you also explore the rest of the village, where you’ll find a one-day experiential historical school that completely charmed us. The village itself is so beautiful that I wouldn’t hesitate to rank it among the most beautiful villages in Europe.
- Museum opening hours: By appointment only, call +421 905 651 057
- Historical school opening hours: By appointment only, minimum 10 people
Pustý Hrad (Desolate Castle)
Until 1992, nobody really knew, but near the town of Zvolen lies the most extensive castle ruins not only in Slovakia but in all of Central Europe. The castle was built in the 12th century, but the site had been inhabited since the Bronze Age, as proven by Václav Hanuliak’s long-running archaeological research on the upper castle between 1992 and 2008.
Wooden Church in Hronsek
Five evangelical articular churches have been preserved in Slovakia, and one of them is located in the village of Hronsek. This wooden evangelical articular church was built entirely without a single nail or metal element. The church also impresses with its unique wooden construction that incorporates several European architectural elements. Some say it resembles Scandinavian stave churches, though the connection has never been confirmed. The church seats 1,100 people (though it doesn’t look like it at all!) and has excellent acoustics.
Banská Štiavnica
Banská Štiavnica sits in the heart of the Štiavnické vrchy mountains in Central Slovakia and is undoubtedly the most romantic town in the region. Some compare it to Český Krumlov, but the locals aren’t too keen on that comparison. You’ll find plenty of lovely cafés and restaurants here. The town supports an alternative art scene, attracting interesting personalities from all over Slovakia. The town is home to the Bank of Love, dedicated to the world’s longest love poem. Banská Štiavnica — like other towns in the region — is deeply connected to its mining past, but you’ll also find numerous galleries and museums.
Štiavnica Calvary
The Štiavnica Calvary is one of the most beautiful Baroque calvaries in Europe. It stands on Scharffenberg Hill (Ostrý vrch) and is visible from virtually every direction. When you walk up the beautiful Way of the Cross, you’ll be rewarded with views of the town and its surroundings. It used to be incredibly run-down, so if you visited in the past, you’ll be amazed at the majestic place it has become after renovation. Today it’s one of the most visited sites in the region.
Bank of Love with Harry Potter-Style Paintings
Did you know that the world’s longest love poem was written by a Slovak? If not, you’re not alone — we had no idea either. All the more reason to head to Banská Štiavnica, where a love story worthy of Shakespeare took place.
Young Andrej Sladkovič was tutoring the wealthy Maria Pischlová and the two fell madly in love. But as often happens, Maria’s parents didn’t want their daughter to marry the penniless Sladkovič. Andrej left to study in Bratislava, and Maria married another man in the meantime. So he wrote her a poem — Marína.
Today, on the site of her house, there’s a museum where moving, talking paintings retell their story (yes, just like in Harry Potter). But there’s also the Bank of Love, where you and someone special — a partner, sibling, or even a friend — can rent your own box for life and keep something inside that reminds you of your relationship and love.
- Opening hours: Mon–Sun 9:30–19:00
- Admission: Tours every hour on the hour
- Price: Adults €12, Children €0 to €10
Visit One of the Local Mines
A visit to Central Slovakia wouldn’t be complete without exploring one of its mines. You’ll be given a coat, helmet and torch before heading deep into the region’s history. We visited the Štôlňa Bartolomej mine and were far from bored. As the oldest and most thematically extensive mining exhibition in Slovakia, it showcases the development of ore mining in Central Europe from the Middle Ages to the end of the 20th century.
The Only School in the World with Compulsory Falconry
This is the kind of school that, once you visit (and you really should), will make you want to move your children to Slovakia — or go back to primary school yourself. In Central Slovakia, there’s an absolutely amazing school, ZŠ s MŠ M. Hella Štiavnické Bane, where falconry is a compulsory subject. The school has built its own small zoo on the grounds — besides birds of prey, they have a tropical greenhouse with monkeys, caimans, turtles and other animals.
Children voluntarily come to school even on weekends because they can ride horses, train their birds of prey, or watch baby birds hatch. The school features a vertical garden, and the children learn to collect rainwater in barrels to water the school garden, which even has a Provence-style corner. You can partially experience this wonderful atmosphere too, as the small zoo with birds of prey is open to the public.
Kaštieľ Svätý Anton (Manor House)
The Slovak word “kaštieľ” doesn’t mean a church or monastery, as you might think — it actually translates to a manor house or small château. This is considered the most beautiful Baroque monument in Slovakia. What fascinated us most was the story of Svätý Anton’s restoration — our guide explained that the wallpaper in the rooms had once been dark green, and today the rooms are beautifully pastel-coloured after layers of dust were carefully removed.
How to Get to Central Slovakia
- From the UK, the most convenient option is to fly to Vienna or Bratislava, then take a train or bus to Banská Bystrica. Budget airlines like Ryanair and Wizz Air serve both airports regularly.
- You can also reach Banská Bystrica by bus, with a transfer in Bratislava. The journey from Bratislava takes about 3 hours.
- Alternatively, you can fly into Budapest and drive or take a bus from there — the journey is approximately 3.5 hours.
How to Get Around Central Slovakia
Slovakia has a good railway and bus network. For finding connections, we recommend the Slovak transport search engine.
If you love cycling, you can take many trips from Banská Bystrica by bike, either bringing your own on the train or using one of the local bike and e-bike rental shops.
Banská Bystrica also runs the “Cyklobus” project, which operates from May to the end of September. Thanks to this service, you can explore a really wide area by bike.
Best Time to Visit the Banská Bystrica Region
Although there are ski resorts near Banská Bystrica and Špania Dolina reportedly looks incredibly fairytale-like in winter, the best time to visit is spring and autumn, when Banská Štiavnica is said to be at its most beautiful. For cycling, May to September is ideal, as that’s when the Cyklobus service runs. If you visit in summer, expect more tourists — especially in Banská Štiavnica — but it’s still nothing compared to major tourist hotspots, so there’s no need to worry.
Where to Stay in Banská Bystrica
[lgc_column grid=“50″ tablet_grid=“50″ mobile_grid=“100″ last=“false“]Budget Option
If you prefer budget accommodation, check out Gran Hostel — probably the most tastefully decorated hostel in the area, complete with a shared kitchen.
[/lgc_column] [lgc_column grid=“50″ tablet_grid=“50″ mobile_grid=“100″ last=“true“]Our Pick
These apartments impressed us with their beautiful design and very reasonable price. They’re located in a quiet zone but easily accessible from the city centre and the train station. There’s also a nearby bus stop for convenient transfers.
[/lgc_column]Where to Stay in Banská Štiavnica
[lgc_column grid=“50″ tablet_grid=“50″ mobile_grid=“100″ last=“false“]Budget Option
Right in the centre of Štiavnica, you’ll find this lovely guesthouse, Penzion Cosmopolitan II. It offers a sauna, hot tub, and barbecue area — all at a great price.
[/lgc_column] [lgc_column grid=“50″ tablet_grid=“50″ mobile_grid=“100″ last=“true“]Our Pick
This apartment is set in a peaceful location below the Calvary in Banská Štiavnica. If you plan to cook some of your own meals, you’ll appreciate the fully equipped kitchen. The apartment is 1 km from the Old Castle of Banská Štiavnica.
[/lgc_column]Tips and Tricks for Travelling in Slovakia
Where to Find More InformationWe were able to take this multi-day trip thanks to an invitation from the Slovak Ministry of Transport and Construction. We fully recommend their website slovakia.travel, as well as the official websites of Central Slovakia and Banská Štiavnica. What to PackCheck out our packing guide to help you prepare. Choose the right travel backpack, browse our travel gadget picks, and make sure you don’t forget anything important at home. Car RentalWe regularly use the comparison site RentalCars.com to help us find the best car rental provider. Motorway VignetteDon’t forget to purchase a motorway vignette for Slovakia. You can now buy one online: Slovakia motorway vignette. Booking AccommodationBooking.com is our favourite hotel search engine. We always compare hotels with local apartments and rooms on Airbnb (get a discount here). Read about how we find cheap accommodation. Don’t Forget Travel InsuranceTravel insurance is an absolute must. For shorter trips, we use AXA (50% discount) and for longer journeys, the British insurer True Traveller. Check out our comparison of travel insurance providers and choose the one that suits you best. |
