At the end of May, we set off in a campervan to the Moravian-Silesian Beskydy Mountains and the Wallachia region in the Czech Republic. The romantic green hills, folk architecture, and abundance of cycling and hiking trails in the Beskydy Czech Republic make it a perfect destination for nature-loving couples and families with children.
You’ll learn plenty about local Wallachian traditions, taste Radegast beer straight from the source, or even spend weeks ridge-walking through the Beskydy Mountains. If you can, bring your bikes — the Beskydy are a cyclist’s paradise.
Where to Stay
The most strategic base for exploring the Beskydy is Rožnov pod Radhoštěm. Here are the current best-value deals on Booking.com:
Booking.comHow Much Does Campervan Hire Cost
If all the hotels are fully booked, consider hiring a campervan. We tested a campervan for five days from Pan Karavan and were surprised at how comfortable travelling by campervan can be.
Hiring a campervan costs around €100–120 per day, with a 10–20% discount for longer rentals. The campervan uses about 10–11 litres of fuel per 100 km.
The campervan comes with a shower, toilet, fridge, and kitchenette. It comfortably sleeps 4–5 people. There’s a bike rack, of course, but you can also store bikes in the luggage compartment, as we did. You also get outdoor seating and a barbecue.
Where to Camp with a Campervan
With a campervan, you don’t need to pay for a campsite every night — if you’re careful with water, you can visit a campsite once every 2–3 days. For tips on wild camping spots, check out bezkempu.cz.
Things to Watch Out For When Driving a Campervan
If you’re hiring a campervan for the first time, we’d definitely recommend going outside peak season when there’s less traffic and it’s easier to find a spot at campsites. Never park on soft ground if rain is forecast — the earth will turn to mud beneath you and you’ll need a tractor to pull you out.
Right, let’s get to what you came here for — the best places to visit in the Beskydy Mountains:
Rožnov pod Radhoštěm
This small town in the Rožnov Valley, part of the Western Beskydy, is the ideal base for exploring the area.
It has a charming little centre featuring the Church of All Saints, built on the site of a 16th-century wooden church between 1745 and 1750. Numerous cycling routes lead from here, making it hugely popular for bike trips.
Jurkovič Lookout Tower
The Jurkovič Lookout Tower looks like something out of a fairy tale. It stands atop Karlův Hill above Rožnov pod Radhoštěm and wasn’t completed until 2011, even though Dušan Jurkovič originally designed it back in 1896.
Jurkovič also designed the shelters at Pustevny, the spa buildings in Luhačovice, and the cable car station on Lomnický štít in the High Tatras.
You can reach the tower from the car park for the Wallachian Open-Air Museum. It’s a fairly steep but short walk. If you’re visiting with young children, it is possible to take a pushchair to the tower, though a baby carrier is a better option.
Admission to Jurkovič Lookout Tower (updated May 2020)
- Children under 6: free
- Ages 6–18: €0.80
- Adults: €1.60
- Seniors over 60: €0.80
- Family ticket: €3.20 (parents + up to 4 children)
Don’t forget to check the weather before you go — you want to actually enjoy the views! 🙂
ROŽNOV POD RADHOŠTĚM current weatherWallachian Open-Air Museum
The Wallachian Open-Air Museum is one of four open-air museums in the Czech Republic and one of the largest in Central Europe.
It consists of three parts: the Mill Valley, the Wallachian Village, and the Little Wooden Town. Admission to each section costs €3.20–4. The Wallachian Village is the largest, and if we had to recommend just one part to visit, this would be it.
When you step into the Wallachian Village, you feel as though you’ve been transported to an authentic Wallachian settlement from centuries ago. You’ll find farmsteads and cottages of landless peasants, a school building, and even a pub.
During your visit, you’ll likely spot a shepherd with his flock of sheep. Most of the buildings are originals that were relocated here, while some are replicas created based on archival records and field research. The tour takes about 1.5–2 hours, and refreshments are available on site.
If you have a pushchair, we recommend visiting the Little Wooden Town instead — it’s smaller but much easier to navigate with wheels.
Pustevny
Pustevny is one of the most visited spots in the Beskydy Mountains, sitting on the border of the Moravian-Silesian and Zlín regions near the legendary Mount Radhošť.
Jurkovič Shelters
At Pustevny, you’ll find the famous Jurkovič Shelters — as the accommodation facilities for hikers were once called. Dušan Jurkovič built two buildings combining lodging and dining in a folk Art Nouveau style, named Libušín and Maměnka. These fairy-tale structures have been drawing visitors to Pustevny in both summer and winter since 1899.
Wallachian Treetop Walkway
Just a few steps beyond Pustevny, you’ll find the relatively new Wallachian Treetop Walkway, which takes you above the canopy. The trail offers stunning views of the Beskydy Mountains, but be prepared for the steep admission price (€24).
Statue of Radegast
From Pustevny, you can walk to the statue of Radegast, the Slavic pagan god, which you’ll find along the path to Mount Radhošť. The route is suitable for pushchairs too.
Mount Radhošť
If the walk to the Radegast statue isn’t enough for you, continue onwards to the summit of Mount Radhošť. On a clear day, you can see not just the entire Beskydy and Wallachia region, but also the Jeseníky Mountains and the Malá and Veľká Fatra ranges in Slovakia.
At the summit stands a late 19th-century Chapel of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The view of the chapel is unfortunately somewhat spoiled by a TV transmitter that was built right next to it in 1931.
How to Get to Pustevny
There are several ways to reach Pustevny.
- If you don’t have a dog (like we did), you can take the cable car from Trojanovice (the car park opposite Hotel Ráztoka).
- You can also drive to Pustevny, but at the weekend we paid €6 for parking. On weekdays it’s €4.
- Buses to Pustevny run from Frenštát pod Radhoštěm (Trojanovice stop near Hotel Ráztoka) and from the bus station in Rožnov pod Radhoštěm.
If you have a bike, you can reach Pustevny via cycle route 6017 or 46, where the upper cable car station is located.
Current Weather at Pustevny
Weather at PustevnyHukvaldy
The largest castle ruin in Moravia sits on an elongated hilltop above the village of Hukvaldy, near Rožnov pod Radhoštěm. Hukvaldy is perhaps best known as the birthplace of the renowned Czech composer Leoš Janáček.
The castle was first mentioned in records from the late 13th century. The best-preserved part is the Chapel of St. Andrew, which was added in the 17th century. Before heading to the Beskydy, check whether any events are planned at the castle — they host spooky nights, wine festivals, fairs, fencing shows, and treasure hunts throughout the year.
Satiny Waterfalls
These enchanting little waterfalls in the heart of the Beskydy are the perfect outing when it’s too hot, or when the weather is too poor and visibility too low for mountain hikes.
They’re located in a 15-metre-deep gorge carved by the Satina mountain stream, and you can reach them in several ways. You can follow the orange or yellow “bear trail” hiking routes, but if you’re short on time, there are steps leading directly down from the road.
Wooden Church of St. Bedřich
The charming and slightly mysterious wooden Church of St. Bedřich (Frederick) is located in the village of Bílá. Built in 1873–1874 by the Archbishop of Olomouc, it looks dramatically different from other churches in the area.
Several myths surround the church. One claims it was built following a Nordic model that the Archbishop purchased at the World Exhibition in Vienna. The construction uses a highly unusual technique known as a stave church — a design that originated in 11th-century Norway. It’s an extremely rare sight in this part of Europe.
Příbor
If you’re planning a longer holiday in the Beskydy, make sure to stop by the birthplace of world-famous psychologist Sigmund Freud. In Příbor, you’ll find two exhibitions dedicated to him — one in his family home on Zámečnická Street, and another in the Memorial Hall of the local museum.
Štramberk
This romantic little town in the Nový Jičín district, near Kopřivnice, is famous across Moravia for its “Štramberk Ears” — a delicious gingerbread pastry rolled into a cone shape.
Local legend has it that the treat dates back to the Mongol invasion of 1241, when an enemy army set up camp at the foot of nearby Kotouč Hill. After a fierce overnight storm, the people of Štramberk broke a pond dam and flooded the enemy encampment. When the water receded, all that remained were sacks of salted human ears. The townspeople began baking gingerbread ears in memory of this grim event.
The town is dominated by Štramberk Castle with its Gothic tower called Trúba, which now serves as a lookout tower. You can also visit the Štramberk Museum and the Zdeněk Burian Museum.
Bílá Hora Lookout Tower
The 28-metre-tall lookout tower on Bílá Hora hill is a very popular destination for hikers coming from Kopřivnice and Štramberk. This concrete structure with panoramic views of the Beskydy has stood here for over twenty years, designed by architect Milan Šmíd. You can reach it via the blue-marked trail from either Štramberk or Kopřivnice — both routes are roughly 2 km long. The tower is accessible by bike or with a pushchair.
Lysá Hora – 1,323 m
Several trails lead to Lysá Hora — the easiest starts from Visalaje along the red-marked route, while the most popular begins in Ostravice. As the highest peak of the Moravian-Silesian Beskydy, it’s one of the most popular hiking destinations, so it’s best to come on a weekday to avoid the crowds.
Smrk
Like Lysá Hora, Mount Smrk is among the most visited peaks in the Beskydy. If you want to avoid the crowds, take the yellow-marked trail from the Šance Reservoir via Staré Hamry — it’s far less busy. The classic route follows the red trail from Ostravice or Čeladná. Pack snacks and plenty of water, as this hike is quite demanding by Czech standards and there are no refreshment stops along the way.
Tatra Museum in Kopřivnice
If the weather turns bad, head to the Tatra Car Museum in Kopřivnice. The museum traces the development of the automotive industry from the Austro-Hungarian era onwards. You’ll be amazed by the collection of beautifully designed cars that once influenced the global car industry.
Where to Eat and Get Great Coffee in the Beskydy
We loved Balloo Coffee in Rožnov pod Radhoštěm, which serves excellent coffee along with great breakfasts, desserts, and a lunch soup. We liked it so much that we came back not just every day, but sometimes twice a day.
Vegetarians should make a beeline for Nashe Bistro, also located in town. If you’re a meat lover, locals repeatedly recommended Hotel Endemit’s restaurant and Albert Málek Restaurant.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
