If you’re planning a trip with a baby, Šumava with a stroller is an absolutely ideal choice. In this guide I will share with you Šumava, Czech Republic: 17 Best Places for Your Holiday, highlighting stroller-friendly routes. Since I’m from South Bohemia, it was clear that our first trip with Jonášek would be to Šumava. It’s close to home, and most of the most popular routes in Šumava are stroller-friendly.
Where to Stay in Šumava:
If you’re wondering where to stay in Šumava with a baby or older children, then we can highly recommend the following accommodations, where they also welcome dogs.
Accommodation in Kvilda
Kvilda is an excellent starting point, for example, for Jezerní slať, but it’s also a short distance to Modrava, Chalupská slať or a trip to Knížecí Pláně, which is why we came here first with the stroller.
We really like Apartments U Sjezdovky, but if they’re fully booked, check out Chata Kvilda accommodation.
Šumava, Czech Republic: 17 Best Places for Your Holiday
Lukáš and I live in South Bohemia, so it was clear that our first trips with the stroller would be to Šumava. What are the best routes for stroller trips in Šumava? Let’s take a look.
Jezerní Slať from Kvilda (2-3 Hours)
You can park at the adjacent parking lot near Jezerní slať, but if you’re staying in Kvilda like us, there’s a pleasant 40-minute asphalt path leading here.
This way, you’ll have an ideal approximately 2-3 hour trip with a stroller, which is perfect for a baby’s nap. We went to Jezerní slať during Jonášek’s afternoon nap right after arriving in Kvilda.
This unique raised bog, located on a plateau between Kvilda and Horská Kvilda, is one of the coldest places in the Czech Republic, with an average temperature of only 2 °C and winter temperatures often dropping below -30°C.
When you reach the bog, you’ll find a seven-meter-high observation tower there. The tower offers breathtaking views of the entire bog and the surrounding forested peaks, including Sokol Hill. You can’t go up it with a stroller, but we took turns for those few minutes.
We were surprised that there was still snow along the path even now in May, even though there had already been several very hot summer days elsewhere in the Czech Republic.
The entire bog is home to many cold-loving plants and animals, including the common viper and the viviparous lizard.
Chalupská Slať – 1 Km Walk + Children’s Playground at the Start of the Route
Chalupská slať is a very short but beautiful route for strollers. You can park at the Svinná Lada parking lot, from where it’s about 200 meters to the Svinná Lada Information Center, where you’ll find a playground and a wooden boardwalk begins.
If you have a double stroller, you’ll have a bit of a problem and inconvenience others, because the path isn’t wide enough for a double stroller if you were to meet another stroller.
The entire route there and back is one kilometer long. So for us, it wasn’t entirely ideal, because it’s not long enough for a baby’s nap, but you can combine it with lunch at a restaurant, and then it’s fine.
Or, like us, come here before leaving Šumava and do the route only with the car seat (our car seat can be laid completely flat, though), and then just transfer the baby back to the car.
The entire trail is barrier-free, and at its end, a magnificent view opens up to the largest peat lake in the Czech Republic, spanning an area of 1.2 hectares. The landscape around the lake is dotted with peat islands, where a number of rare plants grow, such as sphagnum mosses, which occur here in about 20 species.
The formation of Chalupská slať began after the end of the Ice Age. It’s fascinating that the area of 137 hectares of bog stores approximately 2,340,000 m³ of peat. You’ll also find a number of information boards along the trail with information about the local flora and fauna.
From Borová Lada to Knížecí Pláně
Another great route for strollers is along the cycling path from Borová Lada to Knížecí Pláně. The path is pleasantly flat with occasional gentle ascents, so you won’t get too tired with a stroller.
Knížecí Pláně is a vanished village in Šumava, which today is only a reminder of tragic chapters in Czech history. It was founded in the 18th century by Prince Schwarzenberg, and more than 700 inhabitants lived here until World War II.
After the war, the original German population was expelled, and the village found itself in the border zone, through which the Iron Curtain later ran. All buildings, including St. John’s Church, were demolished. Today, you’ll only see remnants of buildings with a system of fields bordered by massive boulders.
Today, Knížecí Pláně is a relatively popular tourist destination, thanks to the restoration of the historic cemetery and a memorial site on the foundations of the destroyed church, where a cross with the Schwarzenberg family crest stands.
On a clear day, you can see as far as the Alpine peaks and the surrounding Šumava mountains from here, which adds even more charm to the place.
Additionally, there’s a pleasant restaurant in Knížecí Pláně, where the only downside is that they don’t have a changing table in the restrooms. But they pleased us by also having vegetarian dishes, and it’s not just fried cheese. 😁
The entire route there and back is 10 km long, so even with lunch, you can complete it in 3-4 hours, which is absolutely ideal with a baby.
Tříjezerní Slať from Modrava with a Stroller
From Modrava, you can also take a 7.4 km long route with a stroller along the cycling path to Tříjezerní slať. It’s a beautiful walk through the Vydra River valley, which will lead you to the fascinating Tříjezerní slať bog, where you’ll find an educational trail along a boardwalk with 11 stops.
Similar to Jezerní slať, there is also a tall observation tower at the entrance here, which offers nice views of almost the entire bog.
From Modrava to Březník with a Stroller
The trip from Modrava to Březník is a bit longer route (16 km total, approx. 4-5 hours), so it’s not an ideal first trip with a baby in a stroller. You’ll have to factor in stopping for feeding, changing diapers, and you won’t make it within one nap window if you follow a baby’s routine.
However, it’s a beautiful route, so if you have an older child who can stay in the stroller and even look around, definitely go.
You can park at the paid parking lot in Modrava (note: they don’t accept cards), and then continue along the blue tourist trail on an asphalt path, which is known as the “New Březník Road” and stretches through a beautiful valley along the Modravský Stream, offering not only a comfortable walk with a stroller but also breathtaking views of the Šumava nature.
After 7.5 kilometers, you’ll reach the Březník viewpoint, where you can rest, have a snack, feed the baby, change diapers, and enjoy other joys of life with a baby.
It’s usually colder in Březník than elsewhere, so dress appropriately. We like to escape tropical days there. Březník Gamekeeper’s Lodge, which serves as an info center in summer, also offers refreshments during the season, but the selection is limited and prices are higher.
For those who don’t have a stroller and want to try a different route, we recommend the return journey along the “Old Březník Road”, which is marked in green. We used to walk our dogs this way before we had a child.
Black Lake with a Stroller
The 7km loop to Black Lake is another great route in Šumava with a stroller. This glacial lake is the largest cirque glacial lake in Šumava and in the entire Czech Republic, making it a very popular destination. Therefore, if you go during peak season, set out early in the morning to have at least some peace.
You can park very conveniently at Špičácké sedlo, but the parking lot is paid, as is the case almost everywhere in Šumava. From the parking lot, a yellow-marked tourist trail leads, which will take you along a paved path directly to the lake.
The path is approximately 3.7 km long, and thanks to its gradual ascent, it’s ideal even for strollers, and we even saw small children on balance bikes who managed it without problems.
The lake got its name from its seemingly black surface, caused by a 9-meter-thick layer of sludge at the bottom of the lake. This sludge is formed by pine needles from surrounding trees that have accumulated over centuries.
Black Lake has no visible inflow and is fed by underground springs; from there, water flows out via the Černý Stream into the Úhlava River. The lake is up to 39.8 meters deep and lies at an altitude of 1008 meters.
It’s better to bring a snack with you, although there’s a buffet by the lake, the selection is quite limited.
To Poledník with a Stroller
Head to Poledník with a stroller from Prášily, from where it’s a nice uphill ride along the cycling path, and the route is approximately 8.5 km long.
Poledník, 1315 m above sea level, originally served military purposes, but after 1991, it was handed over to the administration of Šumava National Park, and only a 37 m high tower remained from the military facility, which was opened to the public in 1998.
Not only nature lovers but also history enthusiasts will find something to enjoy here. The observation tower offers several exhibitions, including one on the history of Poledník and radio communication equipment. There’s also a buffet, but if you go off-season (November-April), the observation tower, exhibitions, and buffet are usually closed.
Beware, the path is quite gravelly, so if you don’t have a suitable stroller for it, choose a different route instead.
Povydří with a Stroller
The Povydří educational trail is one of the most beautiful routes in Šumava, leading from the settlement of Antýgl to Čeňkova Pila. This path, which is also suitable for sports strollers, will take you into the picturesque deep valley of the Vydra stream.
The trail starts in Antýgl and continues along the Vydra, where you can enjoy views of its roaring canyon with dark reddish-brown water, fed by the surrounding bogs. Along the 7.5 km long route, you’ll encounter many calm and wild sections of the river with small waterfalls and rapids.
Along the way, you’ll come across Turner’s Chalet, where you can refresh yourself or even stay overnight, and where there’s an exhibition about river otters for children. The trail ends in Čeňkova Pila, where the Vydra merges with the Křemelná to form the Otava River. In Čeňkova Pila, you can visit the hydroelectric power plant or the remains of a historic glassworks.
The route is marked with a red tourist sign.
To Bučina with a Stroller
Bučina is another great tip for a trip in Šumava, because you can complete this 6km loop within four hours, which is absolutely “doable” (as Lukáš says) even with a small baby in a stroller.
The route starts in Kvilda and follows an asphalt road that is closed to car traffic, making it an absolutely ideal route for strollers.
The path will lead you through beautiful nature and a gentle ascent to the former settlement of Bučina, where only a few remnants of house foundations remain. Along the route, you’ll also see a replica of the Iron Curtain in front of Hotel Bučina, which is complemented by a watchtower and information boards.
Along the way, you’ll come across the Alpská Vyhlídka hotel, where you can relax on the terrace with views of the surrounding forests and hills. You can also rent scooters here, so if you don’t have a stroller and have older children, you can ride scooters back down to Kvilda.
To the Vltava Spring with a Stroller
If you’re also staying in Kvilda, head to the Vltava Spring. The route from Kvilda to the Vltava Spring is the shortest and measures approximately 7 kilometers, meaning you’ll walk a total of 14 kilometers there and back.
The path first leads through meadows, then plunges into the forest, and the final section passes through an area that was affected by bark beetle in the past. Be aware that the path is entirely uphill, but fortunately on an asphalt road, so you can manage it with a stroller without major difficulties.
During the summer months, the path can be somewhat more challenging due to a lack of shade, especially in the last third of the route. I therefore recommend setting out early in the morning or later in the afternoon and bringing plenty of water, as there are no refreshments along the way.
At the spring, you’ll find several benches and a shelter where you can sit, rest, have a snack with the children, and feed the baby. A small river called Teplá Vltava flows into the spring. From the settlement of Chlum, where the Teplá Vltava meets the Studená Vltava, the river officially bears the name Vltava.
To Lake Laka with a Stroller
You can also go to Lake Laka in Šumava with a stroller, but you must only take the route from the village of Nová Hůrka. The total length of the loop is 9.2 km with an elevation gain of 228 meters.
In Nová Hůrka, you’ll park at the parking lot, from where a well-maintained asphalt road leads, which later turns into a gravel path, but you can manage it even with a stroller. Only the last 600 meters might be more challenging for some strollers, as there are many stones and roots on the path.
The main attraction of this trip is, of course, Lake Laka, which is the smallest of the Šumava lakes, but also the highest situated. The area around the lake is ideal for a picnic; you’ll even find picnic tables right by the water.
Along the way, you’ll also see the place where the village of Stará Hůrka once stood. Today, only a chapel stands here, commemorating the victims of the communist regime, and the foundations of a former glassworks.
Olšina Educational Trail with a Stroller
A lesser-known route is the Olšina Educational Trail, where you’ll encounter typical Šumava nature: wetlands, bogs, and adjacent biotopes. This 7,322-meter-long route will take you approximately 2 to 2 and a half hours with a stroller.
However, go on a good day; even though most of the trail follows boardwalks, some sections are through natural terrain and parts are permanently waterlogged. It’s passable with a stroller, but it’s not as easy as on an asphalt road.
For my peace of mind, I recommend going here with a sports stroller, or if you’re not sure if you can manage it, check out the route video.
Velký Javor with a Stroller
Velký Javor, at 1456 m, is the highest mountain in Šumava and the Bavarian Forest, but you’ll find this peak already in Germany, even though it’s only 4 kilometers from our border. Why do I emphasize this? If you’re going on your first trip abroad with a baby, you should remember that they need a travel document, such as a passport.
Park at the parking lot right by Velké Javorské Lake; it will cost you 4 euros for the whole day, and you can pay both in cash and by card. We recommend arriving early, as the parking lot is often full later in the day.
From the parking lot, we followed the green tourist trail; at first it’s a sandy-gravel path, then there are larger stones on the way. After a few kilometers, you’ll reach the Arberschutzhaus hut, where you can rest and use the toilets. Next to the hut, there’s also a glass observation tower in the shape of a cross, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.
From the hut, you can continue along the green mark to the viewpoint at Bodenmaiser Riegel rock, where you’ll switch to red and can head to another viewpoint at Kleiner Seeriegel rock. Finally, you’ll return to the hut, and from there, you can go to the lake along the same green trail.
Velké Javorské Lake is truly beautiful, and an educational trail runs around it, which is wide enough and equipped with wooden boardwalks to be accessible even for strollers. If you get hungry, you can stop at the nearby Arberseehaus restaurant.
Short Stroller Route to Kašperk Castle
With a stroller, you can explore the highest royal castle in the Czech Republic, known mainly from the fairy tale ‘Angel of the Lord’. The path to Kašperk Castle starts at the parking lot, which is about 1.5 km from the castle, on the road from Kašperské Hory towards Nezdice.
From the parking lot, follow the green tourist trail. The first part of the route is on an asphalt road, then you have to continue on a forest path, and the final section might be more challenging for strollers, but it’s manageable with a little effort.
From Horská Kvilda to Antýgl with a Sports Stroller
If you have a sports stroller and don’t mind a slightly longer route, you can set off from Horská Kvilda to Antýgl and to Turner’s Hut. This 14 km long route is slightly hilly, but even children on balance bikes can easily manage it.
The starting point is Hotel Rankl in Horská Kvilda, where you can also conveniently park. From there, follow the blue tourist trail, which leads along the Hamerský Stream towards Antýgl. The first section of the route starts with a steeper descent, but soon the terrain changes to a gentle downhill slope all the way to Antýgl.
The path follows a forest road, and what’s good is that bikes are not allowed here, so if you have dogs, you don’t have to worry.
Path to Turner’s Hut: From Antýgl, the route continues along the Vydra River on a paved path. This section is completely flat and runs parallel to the Povydří educational trail.
At the Antýgl – bridge crossroads, where the Hamerský Stream joins the Vydra River, follow the red tourist trail to Turner’s Hut. Turner’s Hut is a stylish restaurant reminiscent of early 20th-century architecture; if you don’t have a snack with you, you can enjoy something good here.
Srní and the Wolf Enclosure
The Srní Visitor Center in Šumava is very popular among children, as you can combine your visit with wolf watching.
Right next to the parking lot is the visitor center building, where you can see an exhibition focused on wolf life and observe what’s happening in the wolf enclosure via cameras. This allows you to see the wolves even when they are hiding in the enclosure.
Part of the visitor center is an educational trail with a raised viewing platform, from where you can observe the wolves. The trail is short – just under 2 km – but part of the route goes uphill, which can be more challenging with a stroller.
However, if you have dogs like us, you unfortunately have to leave them at home, as they are not allowed on the trail.
Hauswald Chapel
The spring near Hauswald Chapel, located near the village of Mechov by Srní, is known for its healing properties. You can easily reach it with a stroller. The route starts in the aforementioned village of Mechov by Srní, where you can still park for free.
From there, a short but steeper ascent awaits you to the hydroelectric power plant building. This is followed by a pleasant two-kilometer walk on an asphalt road that runs along the Vchynicko-Tetovský water canal. This historic water canal is still functional.
Although the original Hauswald Chapel no longer stands here, its foundations have been reconstructed as a memorial.
Tips and Tricks for Your Vacation
Don’t Overpay for Flights
Search for flights on Kayak. It’s our favorite search engine because it scans the websites of all airlines and always finds the cheapest connection.
Book Your Accommodation Smartly
The best experiences we’ve had when looking for accommodation (from Alaska to Morocco) are with Booking.com, where hotels, apartments, and entire houses are usually the cheapest and most widely available.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Good travel insurance will protect you against illness, accidents, theft, or flight cancellations. We’ve had a few hospital visits abroad, so we know how important it is to have proper insurance arranged.
Where we insure ourselves: SafetyWing (best for everyone) and TrueTraveller (for extra-long trips).
Why don’t we recommend any Czech insurance company? Because they have too many restrictions. They set limits on the number of days abroad, travel insurance via a credit card often requires you to pay medical expenses only with that card, and they frequently limit the number of returns to the Czech Republic.
Find the Best Experiences
Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace where you can book guided walks, trips, skip-the-line tickets, tours, and much more. We always find some extra fun there!
