Slovakia: A Complete Guide to the Tatras Traverse

In Slovakia: A Complete Guide to the Tatras Traverse, I will share an itinerary for traversing the entire Tatra National Park — a dream for many a mountaineer. With our itinerary, you’ll cross the Tatras in seven days, visit all the interesting mountain huts, see and conquer several ridges, and even have to climb using chains. But since we, completely untrained city dwellers from Prague at the time, completed and managed the journey, you have nothing to fear.

The Tatras Traverse Takes Seven Days

Since the traverse starts and ends on opposite sides of the Tatras, it doesn’t make sense to drive to Slovakia. Therefore, plan your trip so that you arrive in Slovakia in the evening and start the traverse in the morning.

The route starts in the mountain town of Ždiar in the Eastern (Belianske) Tatras. We recommend taking a train to Poprad and from there, taking a taxi for 18.5 EUR to your accommodation. Buses from Poprad are infrequent, and if you don’t leave Prague at six in the morning, you probably won’t catch any anyway. Stay at Penzion Ždiar, where you can kick off your holiday with excellent halušky!

At a Glance:

• 82 to 101 km, depending on the chosen route
• 4,655 meters of elevation gained
• approximately 40 hours of walking
• 6 mountain huts

How much it Costs

A train or bus journey from Prague to Poprad costs 400 CZK to 800 CZK, depending on the time of day, class, and carrier. A taxi from Poprad to Ždiar is 18.5 EUR, accommodation totals 220.5 EUR per person.

Most accommodations include half-board, so you typically only need to buy lunch. Together with snacks and teas we bought along the way, we spent approximately 20 EUR per day.

In total, the Tatras traverse for two people, including transport to and from Slovakia, comes to approximately 20,000 CZK.

Day 1: Ždiar – Chata pri Zelenom plese

• Section Length: 12.5 km
• Section Time: 6:59 hours including lunch
• Total Elevation Gain: 1,069 m

Prepare for a tough start. From Ždiar, you enter the Tatras from the lowlands, and although the first kilometer seems easy, a steep ascent follows. And it won’t stop until you gain 1,000 m over just a few kilometers. Your reward is the view from Široké sedlo, which you’ll reach after three hours.

Then it’s just a few tens of meters of elevation gain to Vyšné Kopské sedlo, and from there, it’s a relaxing four kilometers to the hut by Zelené pleso.

Day 2: Chata Pri Zelenom Plese – Téryho Chata

• Section Length: 11.4 km
• Section Time: 8:32 hours including lunch
• Total Elevation Gain: 974 m

On the second day, you’ll spend time at high altitudes and hike most of the way on exposed high-mountain sections. Therefore, we strongly recommend checking the weather forecast so you don’t get caught in a storm in the middle of a section where there’s only rock as far as the eye can see. From the hut, you’ll head to the Svišťovka peak, which involves a very steep ascent, partly using chains.

But don’t worry, many children went there with us too. You’ll conquer 500m of elevation gain in about two hours, and then it’s a beautiful walk to Skalnaté pleso, where you can have lunch. The route continues along the red trail towards Zamkovského chata, where you can refresh yourself before the final ascent to Téryho chata. It starts gradually and ends with a climb along the base of a high mountain.

Expect an elevation gain of 400m over the last two kilometers. The reward is accommodation in a hut that is a short distance from Lomnický štít. The hut has no showers, no hot water, but they have a pleasant wood-burning stove and excellent pancakes.

Day 3: Téryho Chata – Sliezsky Dom

• Section Length: 16.2 km
• Section Time: 9:25 hours including lunch
• Total Elevation Gain: 760 m

If you go via Polský hřeben, the route is four kilometers shorter, but you’ll gain 970 m in elevation.

This is probably the most difficult section of the entire traverse, as you’ll encounter two dangerous sections with chains. This is where a helmet comes in handy, as you’ll be climbing steeply upwards at a 60-degree angle towards the ridge, and rocks occasionally fall. One such stray rock hit me above the knee, and luckily, I was holding firmly onto the chain at that moment, otherwise I probably would have fallen quite a way down.

After overcoming the chains at Priečne sedlo (reportedly the most challenging thing you can experience on a hike in the Tatras), a gentler descent follows, and about an hour and a half’s walk to Zbojnícka chata. The entire journey offers magnificent views and a series of lakes (Sivé, Ledové, and Starolesnianské pleso). Bring binoculars; with a bit of luck, you’ll see a group of climbers conquering one of the surrounding peaks.

At Zbojnícka chata, have some steamed dumplings and decide which way to go; you have two options. If Priečne sedlo didn’t deter you, take the route over Polský hřeben, where there are two sections with chains, similar to those at Priečne. Alternatively, choose the longer but safer route through Velká studená dolina to Rainerova chata and via Hrebienok to your destination for the day, Sliezsky dom.

Sliezsky dom is a luxurious, the highest-altitude mountain hotel in Slovakia. Dinner and breakfast are served buffet-style in the hotel restaurant; tourist accommodation is located on the side of the main building.

Day 4: Sliezsky Dom – Štrbské Pleso

• Section Length: 14 km
• Section Time: 8:28 hours including lunch
• Total Elevation Gain: 483 m

The full-day transfer from Sliezsky dom to Štrbské pleso is best started early in the morning. Most of the way, you’ll be exposed to direct sunlight with no possibility of shade. For 7.5 km from Sliezsky dom to the Ostrva peak, we walk along the High Tatras with views of the lowlands, Poprad, and Slovak Paradise.

Batizovské pleso, which you’ll encounter along the way, is a great opportunity for a snack and a rest. After reaching the Ostrva peak, you’ll see Popradské pleso deep in the valley, to which you’ll descend 500 meters of elevation over a short 2.7 kilometers. And believe it or not, going down is harder than going up! The good news is that after Ostrva, you only have an hour and a half of comfortable walking to Štrbské pleso. For accommodation, we recommend the tourist hostel SHB Štrbské Pleso.

Day 5: Štrbské Pleso – Chata Orešnica (Račkova Dolina)

• Section Length: 3.8 km
• Section Time: 48 min without bus ride
• Total Elevation Gain: 118 m

The following day involves a more than twenty-kilometer hike from the High Tatras to Račkova dolina. If you want to avoid this somewhat boring trek, do as we did. We left our backpacks at the hostel in Štrbské pleso and went to relax. We rented a paddle boat on the lake, tried all three local cafes, including the Zubačka restaurant and the pancake house.

At 5:30 PM, we boarded a bus (from the main parking lot) and at 6:00 PM, we got off at the Pribylina, Račkova dolina stop. From there, it was just under 4 kilometers to our next accommodation along an unfrequented asphalt road, a trek of less than an hour. We arrived at the charming guesthouse Chata Orešnica, where they have an open bar after dinner, and a pond and horses on the property.

Day 6: Račkova Dolina – Žiarska Chata

• Section Length: 12.4 km
• Section Time: 4:09 hours
• Total Elevation Gain: 587 m

From Račkova dolina, the transfer to Žiarska chata takes just over four hours, as more than half of the route is almost flat. Up to the crossroads in Žiarska dolina, where there is a large parking lot, the path is marked as suitable for families with children.

Along the way, you can only stop at Baranec hut, which, however, was not open to the public during our visit, only to accommodated guests. It is also the only section whose mapping in online maps (Mapy.cz) differs from reality, and after about three kilometers from the start of the path, you need to continue along the red trail slightly to the right into the forest, even though the main road, used by bikes, goes another way.

From Žiarska dolina, a steady, at times steeper, ascent awaits you up to Žiarska chata. You can either take the new asphalt road, which, however, is used by scooter riders coming down from Žiarska chata, or walk along the marked blue trail through the forest. Both paths are equally long and converge into one asphalt road for the last two kilometers.

At Žiarska chata, expect a grumpy man at the counter. If you stay in the tourist dormitory (an attic with ‘cubicles’), don’t forget to ask for a shower token. It’s included in the price, although no one will tell you. You can’t buy more, because ‘3 minutes for a shower must be enough for you’. If you get wet on the way, like we did, the hut has a drying room that the staff will open for you free of charge.

On this section, expect views primarily of the opposing Low Tatras.

Day 7: Žiarska Chata – Chata Zverovka

• Section Length: 10.9 km
• Section Time: 5:15 hours including lunch
• Total Elevation Gain: 664 m

On the last day, prepare for a steeper ascent that begins right after Žiarska chata. We took the blue trail to Smutné sedlo; more adventurous hikers can choose an alternative route over Baníkov peak along the green trail, but expect at least three extra hours.

You’ll climb the entire elevation gain in the first three kilometers; the rest of the route is a pleasant descent, where you’ll descend almost a kilometer over eight kilometers. Along the way, magnificent views of Baníkov, Plačtivé, Roháče, and several lakes await you. Roughly halfway, you’ll come across the new Ťatliakova chata, where you can have lunch and a draft Kofola or beer.

Although an asphalt road leads from here all the way to Zverovka, no one rents scooters here, so you’ll have to walk the last section too. 🙂 Here you are fully in a tourist area, as on the way down you’ll meet many mothers relentlessly pushing strollers uphill.

The entire hike ends at Zverovka hut. However, if, like us, you arrive at Zverovka around two o’clock, you can catch a bus directly at the hut and get a ride to Podbiel train station. From there, you’ll travel to Žilina and transfer to a train to the Czech Republic.

When to Go to the Tatras

The main season in the Tatras is from June 16 to October 31; outside this period, many hiking trails are completely closed, primarily due to snow. These closures may persist later into the season; always check the TANAP website for current closures.

However, going on the traverse right in June is not a good idea. Snow lies in the saddles, and it’s still cold and rainy. Most people go on the traverse during July and August, but afternoon thunderstorms are frequent then, and the Tatranská magistrála is full of day-trippers.

We recommend the turn of August and September for the traverse, when thunderstorms are less frequent and the weather is more stable. It might be colder at higher altitudes, but it’s never warm there anyway. Moreover, the days don’t shorten as much yet, and you have enough daylight for every part of the route.

Slovakia: A Complete Guide to the Tatras Traverse

While it might sound trivial, quality equipment is essential to safely complete the trek and enjoy it to the fullest. Even a small detail, like a forgotten plaster, can turn a day hike into a nightmare. Similarly, a good quality backpack makes a huge difference. Although everyone warned us that carrying backpacks all day would be the hardest part (and that we should train in advance), it turned out to be easy (even without training). So, what shouldn’t you forget:

• Sturdy Footwear
• Travel First Aid Kit
• Raincoat (or waterproof clothing)
• Sunscreen
• Clothing for both hot and cold weather (at least 3 layers)
• Trekking poles
• Quality Backpack
• Trash Bag
• KPZ (Emergency Kit)
• Water Bottle or Tea Container

Curious what we pack for our trips and treks? Check out our equipment list!

Also, don’t forget to write down the mountain rescue phone number.

Frequently Asked Questions about Crossing the Tatras