Ushguli in Georgia: 12 Tips on What to See and What to be Aware Of

When we flew to Georgia, it had already been over a year since we started traveling non-stop, and we were tired. It seemed nothing could surprise us, but when I first saw the stone defense towers against the backdrop of the majestic Caucasian peaks, I changed my mind. Ushguli (Ušguli in Czech), the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe (if Georgia is considered part of Europe), is a treasure hidden at an altitude of over 2,100 meters above sea level, in a remote corner of the mountainous Svaneti region.

This cluster of four small villages with characteristic defense towers, nestled beneath the majestic massif of Mount Shkhara (5,068 m), represents one of the most authentic places in the entire Caucasus. A place where time has stood still, where people live in harmony with nature, and where you can experience the atmosphere of the Middle Ages in its purest form.

Let’s explore this hidden gem of the Georgian mountains together and find out why it’s worth making the challenging journey here.

Summary for those who Don’t Have Time to Read the Whole Article

• Ushguli consists of a cluster of four villages with unique stone defense towers, which are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site.
• The best time to visit is from June to September, when the roads are passable.
• To get to Ushguli, use an off-road taxi from Mestia (approx. 2 hours of driving through challenging terrain), or you can go by your own car, which is what we did, and I don’t highly recommend it.
• Don’t forget plenty of cash, warm clothing even in summer, and sturdy footwear.
• Stay at least overnight in a local guesthouse (Gamarjoba Guest and Art House) if you want the full experience.

Where is Ushguli and What should You Know?

Ushguli is located in the northwestern part of Georgia, in the historical region called Upper Svaneti. In fact, it’s not one village, but a cluster of four small settlements – Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi, and Murkmeli – with approximately 70 families and about 200 inhabitants in total.

This area is famous for its typical medieval defense towers (koški) from the 9th-12th centuries, which were built as protection against invaders. Each family had its own tower, which also served as a refuge, granary, and emergency dwelling.

The entire Upper Svaneti is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. And believe me, deservedly so – the landscape of defense towers against the backdrop of five-thousand-meter peaks is something that will take your breath away.

What makes Ushguli so special? It’s not only its location at an altitude of around 2,100-2,200 meters above sea level (making it one of the highest permanently inhabited places in Europe), but also its isolation. Snow lies here for half the year, and in winter, Ushguli is cut off from the world for months. Thanks to this isolation, the village has preserved its authentic character.

Where to Stay and What to be Aware Of

Most people stay overnight in Mestia, but I recommend staying in Ushguli during the summer as well. Accommodation tends to be more modest, but that’s part of the experience. It’s not expensive yet either, so why not stay there? We liked Gamarjoba Guest and Art House.

When is the Best Time to Visit Ushguli?

If you want to avoid problems, the ideal time is from June to the end of September. During these months, the weather is usually most stable – plenty of sunshine, minimal precipitation, and all roads are passable.

July and August are the warmest months, but also the busiest – many groups go trekking during this period, and guesthouses can be full, so book your accommodation in advance. September is more suitable for those who want fewer tourists but still good weather.

June can be rainy at first, and snow may still lie in the passes on trekking routes. October is a lottery – the first half often still offers sunny days, but it can also snow prematurely and close the passes.

From November to May, Ushguli is usually inaccessible – the road is often closed by snow, and guesthouses are shut. Unless you are an experienced expedition traveler, do not venture into Svaneti in winter.

Personally, I recommend September – nature is vibrant with colors, the weather is usually stable, and you can enjoy the best of Ushguli without tourist crowds.

How to get to Ushguli: the Journey Itself is an Experience

The journey to Ushguli is an experience in itself, and if you want it to be hassle-free, use local services. Most people depart from Mestia, which is the main town of Svaneti, from where Ushguli is located approximately 46 km east (by road).

There is no direct public transport to Ushguli – no marshrutkas or buses run here. You have several options to get there:

Off-road Taxi from Mestia

The most common option is an off-road taxi from Mestia. Every morning, drivers with 4×4 vehicles (most often Delica vans) wait in Mestia’s central square. The price for a round trip is usually around 50 GEL per person.

It works like a shared taxi/shuttle – it departs around 10:00 AM when the car is full, and you arrive in Ushguli in approximately 1.5-2 hours. Drivers make stops at viewpoints along the way. You have a few hours on site for sightseeing, and the vehicle returns to Mestia around 3-4 PM.

If you want to stay overnight in Ushguli (which I highly recommend), arrange an individual return ride with the driver for the following day and pay upon your return.

Private Driver or Tour

If you want it to be truly hassle-free, I recommend going on a trip through GetYourGuide. It’s safe, comfortable, and most importantly, stress-free.

On Foot in the Mountains – the Famous Trek from Mestia to Ushguli

The most famous long-distance route in Georgia is the four-day mountain trek from Mestia to Ushguli (approximately 56 km in total). Along the way, you’ll cross passes around 2,500-2,700 m above sea level and pass through picturesque valleys with Caucasus panoramas.

The classic daily stages are: Mestia → Zhabeshi (16 km), Zhabeshi → Adishi (12 km), Adishi → Iprari (18 km) via Chkhunderi Pass (2,719 m) and the Adishchala River ford, and the final Iprari → Ushguli (12 km).

Overnight stays are in simple mountain guesthouses along the way, which have emerged in recent years in every village (Adishi, Iprari, etc.). For mountain hiking enthusiasts, this trek is a true highlight of a visit to Georgia.

By your Own Car

Ushguli is only accessible by car in summer and dry conditions, which is what we did, and it was quite hardcore. More than traveling in Europe, it reminded us of traveling in Uganda. The road from Mestia leads through a narrow valley along the Inguri River – the first approximately 30 km are now newly paved (concrete/asphalt), while the last roughly 15 km are a gravel and bumpy road.

The section before Ushguli is the worst – broken surface, potholes, occasional stream fords. P However, if there haven’t been recent rains, an experienced driver can manage it even with a regular car. However, it’s definitely better to have a 4×4 vehicle with higher ground clearance to avoid damage on the stony road.

From Mestia to Ushguli, allow approximately 2 hours of pure driving time (50 km), or easily 3 hours with photo stops and breaks.

12 Tips on What to See and Do in Ushguli

But now, let’s take a look at what to see and do in Ushguli.

1. Svan Defense Towers (Koški)

Symbol of Ushguli and all of Svaneti. These are tall stone towers from the 9th-12th centuries that served as fortified refuges and defense against invaders. Each family had its own tower, also used as a granary, stable, or emergency dwelling.

To this day, several dozen of these 3-5 story high towers have been preserved in Ushguli – typically square-shaped with small windows. The towers, along with the stone houses, create a unique open-air medieval museum, thanks to which Ushguli is under UNESCO protection.

From this perspective, the most picturesque is the village of Chazhashi, where the concentration of towers is highest and where the traditional character of the settlement has been preserved to this day.

2. Lamaria Church (Nanatsilevi)

On a raised hill above the village of Zhibiani stands the white Church of the Virgin Mary (Uspenie Bohorodice) from the 9th-10th centuries, known as Lamaria. I t is the most significant sanctuary in Ushguli, surrounded by an old cemetery from the 12th century. Original wall paintings and frescoes have been preserved inside.

Lamaria is shrouded in legends among the Svans – for example, it is said that women were not allowed to enter the church (perhaps due to an ancient superstition). Today, Lamaria is freely accessible to all visitors and offers an iconic view – a frequently photographed shot of the small church with a tower against the backdrop of the Shkhara glacier.

For the Svans, the place holds spiritual significance; Lamaria is the Svan name for the Mother of God, and locals still come here to pray for protection. Ancient bells hang by the church, and you’ll also find small stone chapels in the vicinity.

3. Museums and Treasures of Ushguli

Although Ushguli is very remote, it hides surprisingly valuable historical exhibits. The main Ushguli Historical Museum is located in one of the towers near the crossroads in the Chazhashi section.

For a symbolic entrance fee (approx. 3 GEL), you’ll see a collection of unique artifacts, such as old gold and silver jewelry, decorated 10th-century crosses inlaid with gold, or a 6th-century Syrian golden cup with biblical motifs. These treasures bear witness to the rich history of Svaneti; according to locals, the gold comes directly from the surrounding mountains. Photography inside is prohibited, but the experience is well worth it.

The Ethnographic Museum is located near Lamaria. A very old lady, who remembers the original use of the exhibited items, guides visitors there. You’ll see traditional Svan tools, weapons, costumes, and even a hand-operated water-powered flour mill. The entrance fee is around 5-10 GEL.

4. Shkhara Glacier and the Hike to It

The hike to Shkhara Glacier (approx. 8 km one way) is one of the most beautiful and relatively easy treks in Svaneti. The trail follows the Inguri River and gently ascends to a moraine, offering a fantastic view of the glacier tongue and the peaks of Shkhara directly above you.

The round trip takes about 5-6 hours; most visitors set out early in the morning when the mountain is best visible (in the afternoon, it often gets shrouded in clouds).

5. Horse Riding

Those who don’t dare to go on foot can take advantage of local offers and hire a horse with a guide. For a multi-hour ride to the glacier, you’ll pay dozens of Lari (approximately 50 GEL and up per person, depending on the length and number of people in the group).

Horses are an inseparable part of Svan life, and the view of Ushguli from horseback has its unique charm. Local horses are accustomed to mountain terrain and will safely transport you even to more challenging places.

6. Zagaro Pass (Zagari)

Another natural attraction is Zagaro (Zagari) Pass – a high-mountain pass at an altitude of 2,622 m above sea level on the border of Upper and Lower Svaneti. From Ushguli, an old dusty road winds up the slope to it; as a walk, it’s approximately 7-8 km (2-3 hours) one way.

The reward is a panoramic view of both sides of the main Caucasian ridge. This route continues further into the remote Lentekhi region, but due to its difficulty (steep switchbacks, fords), it is only suitable for experienced tourists with off-road vehicles or mountain bikes.

7. Tower of Love and Tamar’s Castle

While walking through Ushguli, you definitely won’t miss the so-called Tower of Love. This isolated tower stands by the road from Mestia even before Ushguli, and drivers like to stop here. A tragic love story is associated with it (after which the tower was named) – it’s a Svan equivalent of Romeo and Juliet.

In Ushguli itself, visit Tamar’s Castle in the settlement of Chazhashi. The ruins, also known as Queen Tamar’s Summer Palace, stand on a small hill above the village. According to legend, the legendary Queen Tamar, whom the Svans still revere today, actually resided here in the 12th century – they even claim that the queen is buried in the inaccessible mountains of Svaneti. From the castle ruins, there is a beautiful view of the entire village.

8. Walk through all Four Villages

The entire Ushguli can be walked through from the highest part, Zhibiani, to the lowest, Murkmeli, in just approximately 30 minutes. Along the way, you’ll enjoy various views of the towers, peek into courtyards, and perhaps even encounter free-grazing cows, goats, or pigs wandering between houses – in Ushguli, farm animals move independently and return to their stables on their own in the evening.

I recommend starting in Zhibiani (the upper part, where Lamaria is located), then descending to Chvibiani, which lies by the river. Continue to Chazhashi (over a low hill) and finally visit Murkmeli with its additional towers and small church.

9. Tasting Svan Cuisine

Mountain cuisine is hearty and simple, based on dairy products, meat, and potatoes. A typical dish you must try in Ushguli is kubdari – a stuffed flatbread with spiced meat, considered the national dish of the Svans.

It is a dense leavened bread filled with chopped pork or beef, seasoned with mountain herbs, garlic, and especially Svanetian salt (svanuri marili) – a mixture of salt and aromatic spices (including cumin, coriander, fenugreek, dill). Thanks to this mixture, kubdari has a distinct spicy flavor and a beautiful aroma of Caucasian herbs. The flatbread is traditionally baked in a wood-fired oven to make the dough crispy and the meat inside juicy.

Another local specialty is tashmijabi – a cheese puree made from potatoes and homemade cheese (similar to the well-known Georgian elarji). You can also try chvishtari (cornbread with cheese pieces) or the famous khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) in its mountain variant. Svanetian salt is used in almost everything here, and you can even buy it to take home as an edible souvenir.

10. Sunset over the Ushguli Towers

One of the most magical experiences you can have in Ushguli is watching the sunset. When the evening rays illuminate the peaks of Shkhara and the defense towers cast long shadows into the valley, a sight like something from another world is created.

I recommend finding an elevated spot with a view of the village (for example, from Lamaria Church or Tamar’s Castle) and calmly observing how the landscape gradually turns into shades of orange and then purple. It’s a moment when you fully realize why the challenging journey to this remote corner of the world was worth it.

11. Stargazing

There is almost no light pollution in Ushguli, making it an ideal place for observing the night sky. If you’re lucky enough to have a clear night, you’ll see an incredible number of stars, a clearly visible Milky Way, and perhaps even some planets.

Locals often say that in the winter months, when the village is cut off from the world and covered in snow, the view of the stars above the snow-capped mountains is even more intense. It’s one of the few advantages of the harsh winter life in these remote areas.

12. Meeting Local Svans and Their Culture

The Svans – the indigenous inhabitants of Svaneti – are a small Caucasian nation that has preserved its distinct culture, language, and customs for centuries. They live in remote valleys and have never been fully subjugated by foreign conquerors. The name Ushguli reportedly comes from the Svan “ush-ishkhari guli” – “fearless heart”, which captures the determination of the locals to remain in the harsh mountains.

The Svans are Orthodox Christians, yet with many original elements of their faith. Long winter months cut off from the world have led generations of Svans to deep piety – “in the silence of the snow-covered mountains, there is nothing left but to turn one’s mind to eternity,” it is written in one Georgian report.

Life in Ushguli remains rustic and modest to this day. Locals traditionally engage in cattle breeding and hunting; unlike most Georgians, they hardly cultivate grapevines or indulge in large wine festivities. Mountain life has always been harsh, and the Svans are accustomed to ascetic simplicity.

What to Know before Visiting

Now let’s look at some practical tips.

Mobile Signal and Internet

Surprisingly, mobile coverage here is quite good – according to travelers, some operators (Magti, Geocell) even have LTE signal in Ushguli. However, quality fluctuates, and outages are not uncommon.

Wi-Fi networks are only exceptionally available (perhaps in one or two guesthouses via satellite), so don’t rely on Wi-Fi and rather get a data SIM card already in the city.

Respect for Locals and Their Customs

The Svans are proud people – treat their traditions with respect. For example, enter Lamaria Church dressed modestly (for women, a headscarf and covered knees are recommended, although today they no longer strictly require it).

It’s not advisable to climb towers without permission – some are private or in a dilapidated state. When photographing people, it’s polite to ask with a gesture or the words “photo ok?”. Many locals prefer to avoid being photographed, while others might surprise you and even invite you for tea.

Learn a few Georgian or Svan words (e.g., thank you = madlobt, Svan hva) – this will break the ice.

Beware of Dogs

Large Caucasian Shepherds are common in Svaneti – in Ushguli, you’ll see them roaming freely. They are usually not dangerous (unless you approach them); in fact, they often serve as unofficial “guides” for tourists around the village.

Nevertheless, it’s good to be cautious, especially outside the village near herds where dogs guard sheep from wolves – in such cases, it’s better to avoid a group of large dogs.

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